Many thanks Blaine, been years since I have plastered a wall or ceiling and your videos and advice have been excellent. I got a great finish on the first wall and ordered some stilts. Keep up the good work!
I love hardwall too, super easy to work with. I used baton strips, screws and packers to plumb the walls, mainly because of the ease to get out. I done the shed as it’s block built, and being a shed I wasn’t too concerned about finishing with skim. I tell you what I done abit of rubbing down and painted it tbh it looked good. Never thought of using plasterboard as rails tbh, I doubt I’d ever do it again as it isn’t my trade, but I do find it therapeutic. Still wouldn’t attempt to skim a wall in the house though lol
I done my 1st room float and set 30+ years ago with Lime like that. Although I pinned timber, ruled off, took them out and filled. U can't go wrong 👏💪👍
Well, thats the way I was setting myself towards and then saw this video... I think I will go with the timber, feels easier to remove and even add to for further layers.
Blain every video is amazing,I have just noticed 114000 subscribers,I remember years ago wen I bought your on line curse of plastering and learned it so quick,since then I have plastered my parents,friends house and mine,by the way I have moved 3 times and always plastered and painted all because your Curse :))))))) Live for ever MATE
UVPC window / door sills make amazing feather edges. For a plastic alternative. Nice idea with the plasterboard. I used wood and taking it out with a multi tool. It was a 3 side corner and took me ages!
Strips of plasterboard is a tip ill remember...what ive done is apply lines of bonding coat about 1m apart and just level them with a long level.then fill in the runs.
This is a brilliant series, thank you for making it. I have an internal red brick wall (not breeze blocks as shown here), it's a relatively small wall, but next to our dining room and was quite dusty, so we PVA'd it (I think it was a 2:1 mix). Now watching these videos, I am toying with the idea of plastering it myself, then within about 2 minutes of this video, you say not to PVA the walls as Hardwall is designed for walls that suck up moisture. So I guess my question is, if the wall had been PVA's (as ours has): What produce would you use for your 'base coats'? or would you just board it? or is there a way to make the wall breathable/thirsty again? Thanks Tom
you should run screeds horizontal, you only need two ,straight edge across it ,much easier to level one end then the other and straighten across wall, just a little tip
Great little video here to add some confidence to a bigger than usual interior brick cover up task I have! Have popped up some timber as screeds, which straight away showed some lower spots. So, I am in Slovakia and the stuff I was recommended as base layer - translates to 'Core Plaster' which is a lime hydrate plaster... Going to make myself a devils key also, seems neat! The top coat I have yet to decide, as I want something structured and slightly rough/cementy looking. Question I have, at the end of your video - once I get to that - it seems I can in the same day apply the top plaster (once decided) once its had a few hours to dry. When I key it and were to leave it for a few days - would I need to pva the wall before applying top coat? Maybe the better question is - is it wiser to do it all in one day i.e. I have to decide final coat and can't use the night to do the base layers? :) I have two 3x3m walls to cover up, didn't want to decide the top coat as I don't have the funds to gather that right now, but the plaster is sitting there ready to go :)
Could you share how you take down (rip out) the plasterboard screeds you used? Using timber, I ended up with some of the core plaster coming off in quite some chunks, maybe I took them down too soon. Generally the time frame would be good to know and with the option to keep the plastboard strips in place, the only downside is then to have to tape it up you said. What about timber, would that just cause a variance in drying and take up of the final layer?
If you used cement board strips instead of plaster board strips for the screeds, couldn't you leave the strips in without any concerns about removing them?
If your leaving board in and not skiming all room keep it away from wall about 6 inch so you can float up to existing plaster otherwise it will crack in the internal angle you need to scrim were board finishes but if you float upto the wall you dont.
Great video as usual 👍I've got to wet plaster a bare brick wall soon but the customer has given it a coat of pva thinking he was doing me a favour. Is it still ok to use Hardwall as I don't really like using bonding 🤔 Cheers mate 🍻
Heyy, so let me get this right?? If i took my walls in my house back to brick, where needed I can use this method throughout the house? I dont HAVE to use plasterboard on the walls, then plaster on top of them? Is there any cons to this? X
What about standard concrete blocks? My surfacecdoesnt look like that. They look like lightweight blocks or cinderblocks??? Still just wet the wall or use a grip product?
If you waited 3 hours for it to go off before you plastered would you still have to PVA the hardwall? Same question to if you went back the next day to plaster it? Thanks in advance, love the videos 👍👍
If you do a pva/sbr mix. (60/40 sbr mainly) you won't have to double coat. The sbr will stabilise it better. If your anxious. Do it twice, no point stressing
@@bradransome2729 that chalky substance is 90% of the time in artex ceilings (its called distemper). What sort of wall are you plastering, never really see it on walls unless it's salt pulling through
Love your videos. Very clearly explained. Would a timber batten or some 10mm trunking be an alternative? I'm thinking it may be easier to remove especially if you can use the concrete screws that dont need plugs
When you say 'had a damp issue' - is the damp problem fixed? If the damp problem is fixed this method will work fine - if the damp problem is not fixed - this method will work fine - but you will still have a damp problem. If you have damp and you want it fixed - have a *good* builder look at it.
Great videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm looking to do something similar but it's a brick that's been painted white. Would you recommend in that case using pva or bonding agent before the hardwall is applied?
I've been watching your vids for a while now and having been a platerers labourer for 4 years back in the early 80s when bags of plaster were 50kg but that's another story. What im wondering is why do you not use a spot board? Instead of digging it out of the bucket? Also, did you cover the cables on the wall?
I am a77 year old retired plasterer In my day it was unheard of to use plaster board to form screeds we formed them with the floating plaster and ruled off them Using plasterboard seems like a timewasting experience
It all depends on the build and it’s design. If it’s sortable to use Hardwall then I’d prefer that but as you say, sometimes S/C is best. It depends on the circumstances
Ask a silly question and all that……But how did you level the bars to each other? I get the plum part. Sorry if this is obvious and I’m just being dumb.
You can't levelon a flat plane ..totally the wrong terminology. You need to line up all the flat surfaces with each other using a very long straight edge or string line ..oryou will get( exagerating) a wall which has peaks and troughs from one end to the other asin a W shape
There are pros and cons to each. Plastering directly makes the wall more durable, and takes up less space than drylining. But if the wall is prone to moisture, shifting or cracking, plasterboard suspended with an air gap will be less affected. A hollow plasterboard wall is also safer in some circumstances; where I live, it's required at the bottom of a staircase so than anyone who falls down the stairs is less likely to get a cracked skull.
Blaine i suppose newbies will get there in the end but you might like to demonstrate how it really should be done when you were taught in school. Plaster screeds top to bottom say 6"" or the width of your trowel 2x1 6" batton top and bottom. easy to tap them out fill in the gaps no messing cutting strips of plaster boards scrimming and so on !! easy. Nice vids though.👍👍👍👍
No disrespect but ive been plastering for 40 years well before muilte finish came out when plastering breeze block walls I always PVA first blocks just suck and dry the plaster before you get a chance to rule it out and straighten plus always screened top and bottom of wall then fill in till straight and flat but definitely PVA breeze blocks
As far as I can tell there isn't a readily available equivalent in the US. In this situation i would probably use usg Structolite as a scratch coat (requires wetting the masonry wall first). Then maybe follow up with base coat like Imperial note: I am not a pro, I've just done a few jobs and a lot of research
Brilliant video. 2 things A: you didn't mention hardwall's "unique" smell. 🤢😉 2: you can't do this as one weekend's project. Go back next weekend with the top coat. Because it is best to top coat within a day or two. No criticism of your video. Just saving someone any heart ache if they leave it to long.
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT if the hardwall is allowed to completely dry out, the finish plaster going over the top of it will dry out too fast and maybe crack/shrink.
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT that or pva buys you time, but if you are a beginner like these great videos are made for... It's just making it hard for yourself.
В Україні , використовують маяки металеві для різних товщину 6 -10 міліметрів довжина яких 2.5-3 метра . Кому цікаво дивіться технології інших країн . З ваших відео, я побачив роботу ,з соколом штукатурним. І взяв на озброєння !
Does noone do sand and cement anymore? I called loads of plasterers and most just wanted me to get the walls boarded or hardwall. No one was interested in sand cement.
![How to Get a Developer Job - Even in This Economy [Full Course]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6nz8GXjxiHg/mqdefault.jpg)
Many thanks Blaine, been years since I have plastered a wall or ceiling and your videos and advice have been excellent. I got a great finish on the first wall and ordered some stilts. Keep up the good work!
Stillts laddie yer gone tae end up in the hospital stillts are fir people in the circus
I love hardwall too, super easy to work with.
I used baton strips, screws and packers to plumb the walls, mainly because of the ease to get out.
I done the shed as it’s block built, and being a shed I wasn’t too concerned about finishing with skim. I tell you what I done abit of rubbing down and painted it tbh it looked good.
Never thought of using plasterboard as rails tbh, I doubt I’d ever do it again as it isn’t my trade, but I do find it therapeutic. Still wouldn’t attempt to skim a wall in the house though lol
I done my 1st room float and set 30+ years ago with Lime like that. Although I pinned timber, ruled off, took them out and filled. U can't go wrong 👏💪👍
Well, thats the way I was setting myself towards and then saw this video... I think I will go with the timber, feels easier to remove and even add to for further layers.
Blain every video is amazing,I have just noticed 114000 subscribers,I remember years ago wen I bought your on line curse of plastering and learned it so quick,since then I have plastered my parents,friends house and mine,by the way I have moved 3 times and always plastered and painted all because your Curse :))))))) Live for ever MATE
I was taught this method years ago, its so affective & takes the guess work out.
Like they say the old way is the best way.
Great video.
Thank you pal 👍👍👍
Very well done. I've always wondered how to get it truly flat from scratch. Great tip, and cheers.
UVPC window / door sills make amazing feather edges. For a plastic alternative. Nice idea with the plasterboard. I used wood and taking it out with a multi tool. It was a 3 side corner and took me ages!
That’s a good idea…I’ll give that a go if I get a chance! Thanks for watching. Cheers 👍
Strips of plasterboard is a tip ill remember...what ive done is apply lines of bonding coat about 1m apart and just level them with a long level.then fill in the runs.
Enjoyed watching that. What a clever idea to set up 3 screeding points. 👍👍👍
Not a good idea if you are going remove them to much work just leave them in no problem
Greats videos mate, always explain clearly!
Quick question.. what do you recommend, a plastic or metal blade speed skim?
Thanks 👊🏼
This is a brilliant series, thank you for making it.
I have an internal red brick wall (not breeze blocks as shown here), it's a relatively small wall, but next to our dining room and was quite dusty, so we PVA'd it (I think it was a 2:1 mix).
Now watching these videos, I am toying with the idea of plastering it myself, then within about 2 minutes of this video, you say not to PVA the walls as Hardwall is designed for walls that suck up moisture. So I guess my question is, if the wall had been PVA's (as ours has):
What produce would you use for your 'base coats'?
or would you just board it?
or is there a way to make the wall breathable/thirsty again?
Thanks
Tom
you should run screeds horizontal, you only need two ,straight edge across it ,much easier to level one end then the other and straighten across wall, just a little tip
Like old Plasterers, use horizontal render screeds, plumb dot each end, rule the screeds down to the dots. Old ways still the best!
Great little video here to add some confidence to a bigger than usual interior brick cover up task I have!
Have popped up some timber as screeds, which straight away showed some lower spots.
So, I am in Slovakia and the stuff I was recommended as base layer - translates to 'Core Plaster' which is a lime hydrate plaster...
Going to make myself a devils key also, seems neat!
The top coat I have yet to decide, as I want something structured and slightly rough/cementy looking.
Question I have, at the end of your video - once I get to that - it seems I can in the same day apply the top plaster (once decided) once its had a few hours to dry. When I key it and were to leave it for a few days - would I need to pva the wall before applying top coat?
Maybe the better question is - is it wiser to do it all in one day i.e. I have to decide final coat and can't use the night to do the base layers? :)
I have two 3x3m walls to cover up, didn't want to decide the top coat as I don't have the funds to gather that right now, but the plaster is sitting there ready to go :)
Could you share how you take down (rip out) the plasterboard screeds you used?
Using timber, I ended up with some of the core plaster coming off in quite some chunks, maybe I took them down too soon. Generally the time frame would be good to know and with the option to keep the plastboard strips in place, the only downside is then to have to tape it up you said. What about timber, would that just cause a variance in drying and take up of the final layer?
As always, fantastic Blaine!
Thanks Marcus! You’re a legend , hope you’re well 👍
I’m locked out of FB again. Can you email me by the way…it’s:
plasteringforbeginners@outlook.com
Could you screw the plasterboard in using packers to level?
If you used cement board strips instead of plaster board strips for the screeds, couldn't you leave the strips in without any concerns about removing them?
How did you level around the socket?
Great tip with screws bars
Cheers mate
If your leaving board in and not skiming all room keep it away from wall about 6 inch so you can float up to existing plaster otherwise it will crack in the internal angle you need to scrim were board finishes but if you float upto the wall you dont.
Great vid. I’ve got a wall I’d love to try this on. But it’s half brick that’s been painted over a few times. Would hardwall work on this please?
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us 😊
excellent video as usual. What is the advantage of this as opposed to adding plasterboard with dot and dab and skim? Thanks
This is much tougher and generally lasts the test of time. But it’s more expensive in the long run so you have to weigh it up really 👍
Do you have any videos on how to do ceilings?
Massive help thank you 🙏🏾
HI....would it be better to set the corners first to make sure the room is square?
You are a credit to your trade my friend. A true master of your craft. 🤝👍
Great video as usual 👍I've got to wet plaster a bare brick wall soon but the customer has given it a coat of pva thinking he was doing me a favour. Is it still ok to use Hardwall as I don't really like using bonding 🤔
Cheers mate 🍻
Browning might be better
Hi Blaine, why would we never use british bonding on block work?
Heyy, so let me get this right?? If i took my walls in my house back to brick, where needed I can use this method throughout the house? I dont HAVE to use plasterboard on the walls, then plaster on top of them? Is there any cons to this? X
Hi Blaine, did you make your devils float? Or did you buy it from the shop like that?
looks DIY'ed right?
Great explanation cheers, do you wait for the plaster to fully dry before removing the screed pillars?
What about standard concrete blocks? My surfacecdoesnt look like that. They look like lightweight blocks or cinderblocks??? Still just wet the wall or use a grip product?
Great video..
If you waited 3 hours for it to go off before you plastered would you still have to PVA the hardwall? Same question to if you went back the next day to plaster it? Thanks in advance, love the videos 👍👍
go straight over same day, pva/sbr mix next day
If you do a pva/sbr mix. (60/40 sbr mainly) you won't have to double coat. The sbr will stabilise it better. If your anxious. Do it twice, no point stressing
Ah legend, thanks for your help! Much appreciated, do I need to check for a chalky substance once PVA'd? Heard that's a no go as it'll drop off
@@bradransome2729 that chalky substance is 90% of the time in artex ceilings (its called distemper). What sort of wall are you plastering, never really see it on walls unless it's salt pulling through
Love your videos. Very clearly explained.
Would a timber batten or some 10mm trunking be an alternative? I'm thinking it may be easier to remove especially if you can use the concrete screws that dont need plugs
Can this be done over a brick wall that had a damp issue , and if so what is best to use before hand to keep the damp back ? Thanks
Damp has got to be coming from somewhere, find out where and sort out the issue rather than trying to cover it up and forget.
When you say 'had a damp issue' - is the damp problem fixed? If the damp problem is fixed this method will work fine - if the damp problem is not fixed - this method will work fine - but you will still have a damp problem. If you have damp and you want it fixed - have a *good* builder look at it.
Great videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm looking to do something similar but it's a brick that's been painted white. Would you recommend in that case using pva or bonding agent before the hardwall is applied?
Use plastering pre-grit! I see it was 7 months ago but if you haven’t done it yet I’d use that !
I've been watching your vids for a while now and having been a platerers labourer for 4 years back in the early 80s when bags of plaster were 50kg but that's another story.
What im wondering is why do you not use a spot board? Instead of digging it out of the bucket?
Also, did you cover the cables on the wall?
Hi Blaine I guess you don't plaster to the floor? Do you just stop somewhere that's gonna be behind the skirting? Not that obvious from the vids
I am a77 year old retired plasterer In my day it was unheard of to use plaster board to form screeds we formed them with the floating plaster and ruled off them Using plasterboard seems like a timewasting experience
Made my life million times easier cheers haha
Great to hear matey!
Great video, when would you use bonding? If not on a brick wall, is it more patch repair?
Exactly that mate. Thanks for watching pal 👍
What do they mean by ‘digs’ in plastering?
What's your preference for externally facing solid brick walls, would you use a sand/cement render instead of Thistle Hardwall?
It all depends on the build and it’s design. If it’s sortable to use Hardwall then I’d prefer that but as you say, sometimes S/C is best. It depends on the circumstances
*suitable
Sei bravo
Ask a silly question and all that……But how did you level the bars to each other? I get the plum part. Sorry if this is obvious and I’m just being dumb.
You can't levelon a flat plane ..totally the wrong terminology. You need to line up all the flat surfaces with each other using a very long straight edge or string line ..oryou will get( exagerating) a wall which has peaks and troughs from one end to the other asin a W shape
Nothing wrong with using wet screeds...shapes of bad block work accounted for with screeds running up angles ,ceiling line and skirting.
Did I miss a video in this series? I thought it was a 5 video course. Maybe I’m mistaken.
Is this better or just plasterboarding then skimming?
There are pros and cons to each. Plastering directly makes the wall more durable, and takes up less space than drylining. But if the wall is prone to moisture, shifting or cracking, plasterboard suspended with an air gap will be less affected. A hollow plasterboard wall is also safer in some circumstances; where I live, it's required at the bottom of a staircase so than anyone who falls down the stairs is less likely to get a cracked skull.
@@pcno2832 thank you for your reply, knowledge learnt thx
Blaine i suppose newbies will get there in the end but you might like to demonstrate how it really should be done when you were taught in school. Plaster screeds top to bottom say 6"" or the width of your trowel 2x1 6" batton top and bottom. easy to tap them out fill in the gaps no messing cutting strips of plaster boards scrimming and so on !! easy. Nice vids though.👍👍👍👍
What do you recommend to repair external render
It’s always tough with Render because it always shows. I like the bagged Render at the moment so I’d probably go for Webbers OCR 👍
is it ok to work around live socket with water and other conductive toys ? 🥶
As long as your careful - I’m a domestic plasterer so most of the time I have no choice. But this was my garage so it was ok 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners 👍🥂
No disrespect but ive been plastering for 40 years well before muilte finish came out when plastering breeze block walls I always PVA first blocks just suck and dry the plaster before you get a chance to rule it out and straighten plus always screened top and bottom of wall then fill in till straight and flat but definitely PVA breeze blocks
Thermalight blocks need bonding agent with hardwall, sucks in to fast and blows in long run.
@@truebro77 always 1 what? 🤣
Why not to use plaserboards instead and finish this in 30 min with perfect flat surface?
They are what you call grounds
Where can I get this type of plaster? Do you know the US equivalent?
As far as I can tell there isn't a readily available equivalent in the US. In this situation i would probably use usg Structolite as a scratch coat (requires wetting the masonry wall first). Then maybe follow up with base coat like Imperial
note: I am not a pro, I've just done a few jobs and a lot of research
Quicker and cheaper to dot and dab some board on.
Brilliant video. 2 things
A: you didn't mention hardwall's "unique" smell. 🤢😉
2: you can't do this as one weekend's project. Go back next weekend with the top coat. Because it is best to top coat within a day or two.
No criticism of your video. Just saving someone any heart ache if they leave it to long.
What happens if there is a delay doing the top coat?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT it'll shale off as it will not adhere to the base coat.
The idea of the 2 coats is that they 'fuse' into one solid layer.
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT if the hardwall is allowed to completely dry out, the finish plaster going over the top of it will dry out too fast and maybe crack/shrink.
@@johnwiles4661 could you not wet it down before multifinish?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT that or pva buys you time, but if you are a beginner like these great videos are made for... It's just making it hard for yourself.
you're right no Pva then why did you use Pva in a different video
В Україні , використовують маяки металеві для різних товщину 6 -10 міліметрів довжина яких 2.5-3 метра . Кому цікаво дивіться технології інших країн . З ваших відео, я побачив роботу ,з соколом штукатурним. І взяв на озброєння !
Anyone notice hardwall upon drying stinks of shit
Does noone do sand and cement anymore? I called loads of plasterers and most just wanted me to get the walls boarded or hardwall. No one was interested in sand cement.
Not for me
should have scratched the first coat
Only If your expecting to let the first coat completely set .
if its firm@@itsmorphed6416
Oh bye the way, I did eventually become a plasterer. Now retired with bad elbows and wrists. Lol
Hard wall stinks and customers look at you funny when their whole house smells like methane (farts)
Very true 😂
I've used 1" pvc trim then pulled them out and filled they are also reusable