Dude You're awesome ...I'm sooooo tired of looking for something simple and you are the man...get back on your channel and get shot Poppin... Thanku man
Thanks for this. I've been creating screen print artwork for about 6 years now and haven't seen a great tutorial for doing raster separations until now. Thank you again!
You did a great job on this tutorial. I did some practicing today using your method. I really had no trouble at all. I do have two questions though. How do you place your registration marks? Do you have to convert each color to bitmap and make them halftones in order to print on to film or do you print them as is?
Dear honorable Just now I have seen your informative video tutorial. Your explanation is is very understandable. So my prayer to you. Enjoy your joyful life 💓💓💓
Hi, thank you for your video. I have a question on your last step, when you added "black" details... You could not go back to white spot(channel) and play with levels to reveal more details? Thanks*
Hi fab video, really helpful. Could you make a video showing how to separate a black and white photo where 2 colours are separated as in White and Grey only. Hope you understand I’m really need to this. Thanks
@@PromoWeapon thanks for your quick reply, I use photoshop and save my image as a PDF and print from there. At the moment I can only grey scale the image then halftones to make a white image on Black t shirts, but if I could use some grey in it to make the image pop a little, that’s what I’m after. Hope you understand your poor explanation?? Thanks buddy
Gret Video! I was just wondering about the base layer on lighter garments. Would you still use an 85% solidity or just leave out the base layer all together while printing on white/cream-colored shirts or clothing pieces? And would the other layers still be at a 15%?
Hi. Thanks for watching. The base layer could be left off on white, cream, or ash gray etc. solidity is just for show on screen really. If you want to effect the amount of ink you’re putting down, use levels.
@@PromoWeapon Thank you! Also, I was wondering if this color separation process would be a reasonable option using water-based inks? I've heard both spot and simulated process color separation methods are more lenient towards plastisol's.
@@michaelelwell2816 Sure. It works. Water based inks are a little less opaque so it may take more flash/hits, especially on the underbase to get the same vivid colors.
Thank you for this video. I am trying to follow the process, but my spot colors are saving the colors. It’s almost like the selection changes the whole page to the color. And the image isn’t showing through like yours. Any suggestions?
Great stuff right there. Easy and straight. Just quick question. For simulation process what type of ink should be used? is it process/wetlook or opaque/matte? Thanks.
Hi Bryan. Simulated process uses opaque plastisol inks. True process inks are thin and translucent and not suitable for this type of work. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for this neat tutorial. I have been learning screen printing and I have succeeded in making awesome full color photos using YMCK, but I find it more complicated doing spot color or simulated process .. why not just do CMYK or YMCK instead of this process.. wouldnt it look the same?? I mean eventually once you're done with color separation you will have to convert all (or most) to halftones right?? just wondering. I would rather just use four screens or five if I'm using a black shirt, but why use six or seven or sometimes more screens.. its just time consuming. Thanks again buddy.
Hi. Sorry. I've been AWOL for a while. Yea, YMCK is great, but sometimes you get color shifting and banding and also it works best on white or light garments. Thanks for watching
Great video and I noticed when you pull a color it fades for where dark and light is but my question is there ever an issue with interlocking or does everything work out fine
Seems to work out pretty well. To be honest, I didn’t even know what an interlocking halftone was until about 2 years ago. I’m studying some of Thomas Knight’s work currently. His color theory and technical understanding is mind blowing. Makes me feel like a drooling idiot. Haha. Thanks for the comment.
Also, can you explain exactly what you want to see? Are you wanting to print films straight out of photoshop or export to a different program first? What's your usual process? Sorry for all the questions, but making a vid is time consuming and I want to make sure when I make one, that it's on point. Thanks again!
Good video. Can you please tell me if I need to stroke/choke the white underbase (make smaller) or leave it the same size as other colors when doing these type halftone prints. Thanks
It’s a matter of preference really. If you had text with the design, then I would say probably. Then again, I printed without trap for years and never had a customer complain about white peeking out. Thanks!
hey if you can make a quick video of doing just a 2 or 3 color seperation for basic logos. i am super new to this and the more basic or simple the video is would really help. Thank you I will try to use this video too. Im just not good at computers lol
If creating these for white tshirts a. would I start with the darkest color and B. is the 15% solidity still for white or would that instead be 85% since I'm working I guess backwards?
So you don't actually provide the printers with the PMS colors and leave it to them to pick the appropriate spot color? We can't do that where I work. Also, you don't have an underbase screen, but just a Highlight White?
Can you please elaborate more on why all the other spot colors receive 15% solidty? Also, I would not be mad if you made another video actually showing you exporting file and creating films just to clarify how easy that process goes as well. Very nice tutorial, thank you for providing for us.
Hey Josh. Thanks for watching the vid. Basically, you’re trying to simulate on the monitor what the print will actually look like. I think most plastisol actually has around a 5% opacity. So you could use 5%. I just like the way 15% looks. I will usually just print films out of PS after converting to halftones. See the video below. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
Sorry if this has been asked already but when you make your white channel is that underbasing all the colors as well, or is it only grabbing the white highlights?
Thanks for the great content. Quick question ❓ is this different from going to edit ,convert to cmyk in Photoshop or this process gives a better result?
Yes, it's different. The CMYK color model uses Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black to make all of the other colors, whereas this method lets you choose which color you want to print. Thanks.
I have a video about this. Check out my channel. Also, I sell Photoshop action that automates the whole thing from seps to halftones. Check out that video here. ua-cam.com/video/VlsIvG5Un9o/v-deo.htmlsi=yTp8UycPgxt77_Uj Thanks for watching. Sorry I've been gone so long but I'm here.
So I did everything you said but when I try and open it after in Adobe illustrator is says something like spot file contains conflicting spot color information. Spot colors and process colors cannot share the same name??
Hey there. Yea, in Photoshop, you need to name your spot channels something like spot black, spot yellow, etc. because when you open it up in Illustrator, it already has colors named cyan, magenta, yellow, and black so you can’t use those color names.
@@PromoWeapon ya I'm pretty sure I did that but I'll go back check and see if I missed something. Thanks for the quick reply and love the tutorials. Hope to see more of them!
I can't understand your highlight tutorial bcz in my laptop there not showing fuzziness and range options...can you please explained it...I'm waiting from Nepal country of Everest mount.
Hey. Thanks for watching. I've added a screenshot to my drive that you can view. Just click the link. Hope this helps. drive.google.com/file/d/1f4y_3HtlJiVR7qPwOELNtk94LzA1w2KE/view?usp=sharing
Can't i just bring the whole file to a printer or staples and have them make the plastic prints for me to make my own screenprinted tee's? Why do i have to open in any other program?
Hi Gerald. Thanks for your comment. Hope you’re still learning. I generally will halftone them unless I’m taking an image into a vector program to add more elements. See the new video about halftoning and printing out of photoshop at the link below. ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
You need to have RIP software which converts gradients to halftone for you or you need to manually convert to bitmap halftones first before printing your film.
Thanks for answering questions and clarifying for me. I have a new vid about printing without rip. Check it out. ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
Dude You're awesome ...I'm sooooo tired of looking for something simple and you are the man...get back on your channel and get shot Poppin... Thanku man
Thanks for this. I've been creating screen print artwork for about 6 years now and haven't seen a great tutorial for doing raster separations until now. Thank you again!
FANTASTIC!!! That really made it just as easy as any of those FastFilms and similar software plug-ins.
This was straight to the point! I’ve been watching a lot of videos and this one sums it all up 💯
You did a great job on this tutorial. I did some practicing today using your method. I really had no trouble at all. I do have two questions though. How do you place your registration marks? Do you have to convert each color to bitmap and make them halftones in order to print on to film or do you print them as is?
Dear honorable Just now I have seen your informative video tutorial. Your explanation is is very understandable. So my prayer to you. Enjoy your joyful life 💓💓💓
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. Just started learning screen printing in Kenya.
Waiting for new technical Video & tips for Photoshop. Love you.
very cool man! long time screen printer but very late in the game do work on my own file Thank you for the vid.
You are very good at explaining this process,best video i've seen so far explaining how to,easy easy
New subscriber from the philippines.. Keep going.. Thank you for sharing your talent dude..
Thanks Dexter!
Now taking this and printing on transparency ? Do you have a video on that process ...I hope you do cause man that was dope and simple
Thanks for your kind words. Had some stuff going on but I'll post in the next day or two.
Coke breaks are always necessary. Great vid man.
Great vid thank you man!!!
Thank you. Hope it helps.
Thanks for this - really awesome
Hi, thank you for your video. I have a question on your last step, when you added "black" details... You could not go back to white spot(channel) and play with levels to reveal more details? Thanks*
this is awesome !! cant wait to try it
Thanks Tony! Let me know if you have any questions.
great tutorial! so on photoshop to print the film after all these steps I can just color overlay everything black and it will be ready to go right?
This is dope thank you
Great work...but halftone not use?
Yes, See this video. ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html Thanks!
Hi fab video, really helpful. Could you make a video showing how to separate a black and white photo where 2 colours are separated as in White and Grey only. Hope you understand I’m really need to this. Thanks
Hi David. Thanks! Sure can. You working in photoshop? Making film positives straight from there?, or a different program?
@@PromoWeapon thanks for your quick reply, I use photoshop and save my image as a PDF and print from there. At the moment I can only grey scale the image then halftones to make a white image on Black t shirts, but if I could use some grey in it to make the image pop a little, that’s what I’m after. Hope you understand your poor explanation?? Thanks buddy
Gret Video! I was just wondering about the base layer on lighter garments. Would you still use an 85% solidity or just leave out the base layer all together while printing on white/cream-colored shirts or clothing pieces? And would the other layers still be at a 15%?
Hi. Thanks for watching. The base layer could be left off on white, cream, or ash gray etc. solidity is just for show on screen really. If you want to effect the amount of ink you’re putting down, use levels.
@@PromoWeapon Thank you! Also, I was wondering if this color separation process would be a reasonable option using water-based inks? I've heard both spot and simulated process color separation methods are more lenient towards plastisol's.
@@michaelelwell2816 Sure. It works. Water based inks are a little less opaque so it may take more flash/hits, especially on the underbase to get the same vivid colors.
@@PromoWeapon Thank you!!
Great stuff sir. How do you know what color to put on the shirt first?
Hi there. Light to dark usually.
Thank you for this video. I am trying to follow the process, but my spot colors are saving the colors. It’s almost like the selection changes the whole page to the color. And the image isn’t showing through like yours. Any suggestions?
Thank you sir for the detailed tutorial..
Great stuff right there. Easy and straight. Just quick question. For simulation process what type of ink should be used? is it process/wetlook or opaque/matte? Thanks.
Hi Bryan. Simulated process uses opaque plastisol inks. True process inks are thin and translucent and not suitable for this type of work. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for this neat tutorial.
I have been learning screen printing and I have succeeded in making awesome full color photos using YMCK, but I find it more complicated doing spot color or simulated process .. why not just do CMYK or YMCK instead of this process.. wouldnt it look the same?? I mean eventually once you're done with color separation you will have to convert all (or most) to halftones right?? just wondering. I would rather just use four screens or five if I'm using a black shirt, but why use six or seven or sometimes more screens.. its just time consuming.
Thanks again buddy.
Hi. Sorry. I've been AWOL for a while. Yea, YMCK is great, but sometimes you get color shifting and banding and also it works best on white or light garments. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the art file it’s dope!!!!
Great video and I noticed when you pull a color it fades for where dark and light is but my question is there ever an issue with interlocking or does everything work out fine
Seems to work out pretty well. To be honest, I didn’t even know what an interlocking halftone was until about 2 years ago. I’m studying some of Thomas Knight’s work currently. His color theory and technical understanding is mind blowing. Makes me feel like a drooling idiot. Haha. Thanks for the comment.
thank you so much sir you made it nice and simple thank you so much again
NIce video, well explained. can you make a video on how to make the ouput for printing the films positives?
Hi Arturo! What program will you be printing from? Are you using a rip? Thanks.
@@PromoWeapon I use Photoshop, Coreldraw and print with PrintFab Rip
Also, can you explain exactly what you want to see? Are you wanting to print films straight out of photoshop or export to a different program first? What's your usual process? Sorry for all the questions, but making a vid is time consuming and I want to make sure when I make one, that it's on point. Thanks again!
Or do you have a video showing how to get the films ready through illustrator?
Hey. Took a kind of… hiatus if you will. Coming back strong with fresh vids soon. Thanks for watching.
Good video. Can you please tell me if I need to stroke/choke the white underbase (make smaller) or leave it the same size as other colors when doing these type halftone prints. Thanks
It’s a matter of preference really. If you had text with the design, then I would say probably. Then again, I printed without trap for years and never had a customer complain about white peeking out. Thanks!
@@PromoWeapon awasome!
hey if you can make a quick video of doing just a 2 or 3 color seperation for basic logos. i am super new to this and the more basic or simple the video is would really help. Thank you I will try to use this video too. Im just not good at computers lol
Sure Buddy. It’s basically the same process but I may be able to simplify it for you. Stay tuned and thanks for commenting!
Thanks for sharing.."new subscriber".. I definitely took my notes 📝.. 🙏
If creating these for white tshirts a. would I start with the darkest color and B. is the 15% solidity still for white or would that instead be 85% since I'm working I guess backwards?
Hi Denise, keep them at 15% to 25% and adjust levels if you need to pick up more or less of a color. Dark to light is fine. Thanks.
Good Tutorial. I love it. Please show your CMYK process
So you don't actually provide the printers with the PMS colors and leave it to them to pick the appropriate spot color? We can't do that where I work. Also, you don't have an underbase screen, but just a Highlight White?
Love IT 💯 thank U
You're awesome! Thanks for watching.
Can you please elaborate more on why all the other spot colors receive 15% solidty? Also, I would not be mad if you made another video actually showing you exporting file and creating films just to clarify how easy that process goes as well. Very nice tutorial, thank you for providing for us.
Hey Josh. Thanks for watching the vid. Basically, you’re trying to simulate on the monitor what the print will actually look like. I think most plastisol actually has around a 5% opacity. So you could use 5%. I just like the way 15% looks. I will usually just print films out of PS after converting to halftones. See the video below. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
Sorry if this has been asked already but when you make your white channel is that underbasing all the colors as well, or is it only grabbing the white highlights?
Thanks for the great content. Quick question ❓ is this different from going to edit ,convert to cmyk in Photoshop or this process gives a better result?
Yes, it's different. The CMYK color model uses Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black to make all of the other colors, whereas this method lets you choose which color you want to print. Thanks.
Hope this ain't a dumb question but I need help halftones and printing from Photoshop ( no acu rip) after these steps
Hey hardworkingagent. Check out this other vid for halftones. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
How do you print the films if no RIP software? Do I bit map?
I have a video about this. Check out my channel. Also, I sell Photoshop action that automates the whole thing from seps to halftones. Check out that video here. ua-cam.com/video/VlsIvG5Un9o/v-deo.htmlsi=yTp8UycPgxt77_Uj Thanks for watching. Sorry I've been gone so long but I'm here.
Let's say you have a 4 color press and need 5. Can you do black and gray together. With gray as undertone? Hope I make sense.
Do a video please what you do after you are done with this as in transferring it to AI for screen printing prep.
best video out thank you!!!!
thank you for the good tutorial. how to put registration mark i dunno how to make it. thank you in advance
What size mesh are you going to be using for this work?
160 for white. 230 for others. Thanks for watching.
So I did everything you said but when I try and open it after in Adobe illustrator is says something like spot file contains conflicting spot color information. Spot colors and process colors cannot share the same name??
Hey there. Yea, in Photoshop, you need to name your spot channels something like spot black, spot yellow, etc. because when you open it up in Illustrator, it already has colors named cyan, magenta, yellow, and black so you can’t use those color names.
@@PromoWeapon ya I'm pretty sure I did that but I'll go back check and see if I missed something. Thanks for the quick reply and love the tutorials. Hope to see more of them!
Can this work on the iPad version of photoshop?
I can't understand your highlight tutorial bcz in my laptop there not showing fuzziness and range options...can you please explained it...I'm waiting from Nepal country of Everest mount.
Hey. Thanks for watching. I've added a screenshot to my drive that you can view. Just click the link. Hope this helps. drive.google.com/file/d/1f4y_3HtlJiVR7qPwOELNtk94LzA1w2KE/view?usp=sharing
Aye homie... You made this soooo simple! Don't go disappearing on us again. You need Coke. We'll get a fund together 😀
Glad it helped. Awesome comment! Thanks.
very helpful!!
Hey having several issues with setting up the print. and size for the printing. can you remote with me let me know the price thanks.
What screen frequency to use when burning screen?
Somewhere between 40 and 50 lpi at 22.5 degrees. Thank you.
i dont have rip software, so can u show the process in illustrator???
Upload more about printing bro!
Hey Lancer. Thanks for watching. Anything in particular you’d like to see?
Pls how do u save it in separate file as black to print pls
thanks it is really helpful vid
You can’t print straight from photoshop cc?
Can you get away with printing to film without Accurip?
Hey Ivan. See the new vid about printing with no rip. ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
REGISTRATION MARKS!!! HOW DO WE ADD THEM TO EVERY CHANNEL? PLEASEEE
Thank you sir...
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Let me know if you have any questions.
By far the simplest explanation ,great work !
Brilliant
สุดยอดครับ
do you separate each color trame?
Can't i just bring the whole file to a printer or staples and have them make the plastic prints for me to make my own screenprinted tee's? Why do i have to open in any other program?
🔥🔥🔥
we want to more video and unclear photo image sir..
Very nice I learned something
hey, new to this but can this also apply for DTG ? I printed my design as a png and noticed some parts are not colored in.
are you going to halftone those colors? I see gradient and I'm curious about the print positive output
Hi Gerald. Thanks for your comment. Hope you’re still learning. I generally will halftone them unless I’m taking an image into a vector program to add more elements. See the new video about halftoning and printing out of photoshop at the link below.
ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html
I think you needed to choke down white a bit
This isn't right..... you can't print gradients on emulsion.... it has to be halftones...
You need to have RIP software which converts gradients to halftone for you or you need to manually convert to bitmap halftones first before printing your film.
@@chankarchandra do you convert the half tones to bitmap before you start picking layers or after you’re finished?
@@MistaaFrosty I pick my channels then convert the channels to halftones.
Thanks for answering questions and clarifying for me. I have a new vid about printing without rip. Check it out. ua-cam.com/video/BjRalp59vuo/v-deo.html