DIY Vibration Reduction in Sportsters - Rubber Motor Mount Replacement
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Turning a Sportster into a Touring Machine - Part Two: Vibration Reduction
The biggest complaint most people have about Sportsters is Highway vibration. Harley-Davidson attempted to mitigate this by rubber mounting the bike in 2004. But that was 20 years ago. Rubber hardens over time. In fact Google says rubber mounts are only designed to work for 7 years! 2004 is 20 years ago. These mounts have got to be saggy and hard thus not working so....
In order to improve the touring experience I'm going to replace the front and rear rubber motor mounts in order to reduce the vibration. And I'll do it with some basic tools and ability to follow instructions in a book.
Or at least that's the goal.
Will we succeed?
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Table of Content:
Initial Disassembly - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Remove Stripped Bolt - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Front Left Mount - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Front Right Mount - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Front Reassembly - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Rear Disassembly - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Rear Left Mount - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Rear Right Mount - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Rear Reassembly - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
Lesson Learned - • DIY Vibration Reductio...
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Parts Discussed:
Tub O Towels: amzn.to/3VSzaxw
Clymer Sporster Service Manual
2004-2013: amzn.to/3PTeKk5
2014-2017 (I believe to end of run): amzn.to/3TPLoUW
1986-2003: amzn.to/3Uds05O
Motorcycle Scissor Jack: Mine came from H.F. but I think this is same exact one: amzn.to/3PU5Umc
Craftsman Spiral Screw Extractor: amzn.to/3UaUw83
Other Parts on Bike:
Mustang Saddle - amzn.to/3x4dZxZ (note these go on sale often. pretty sure I paid about $250 for mine.)
Progressive Shocks - amzn.to/3x4dZxZ
Progressive Cartridge Fork - amzn.to/3THt7tY (lots of variations, be sure to check your model, 31-2513 is ones I got)
Sissy Bar - amzn.to/4aqGHrr (note I got same one in chrome. would do black now because I think better with rust.)
Handlebar Vibration Dampner - amzn.to/4cj6Wln
Kuryakyn Throttle Boss - amzn.to/43oNU95
Kuryakyn End Cap - amzn.to/4ael1yI
Kuryakyn Grips - amzn.to/3x4Mep6
Dart Flyscreen Windshield - amzn.to/4csvwA0
Handlebars came from JP cycle
4:18 NEVER forget that step when securing a bike!
Welcome to the amateur motorcycle mechanics club, you seem like a good prospect! The algorithm brought up this video since I have been binging on Sportster content. Mine is a 1978/79/80 whatever Ironhead I foolishly bought in a moment of intellectual weakness at an estate sale, it is in my shop as I take it apart and put it back together. I have found a lot of interesting surprises, just hope it runs when I am done.
As most of us do you will probably ad a tool or two as the need arises and the money is available. Then you will need tool boxes, a shop to keep them in, it is a sickness that has no end, be carefull!!! 😎
Good luck on your project, I think you will do fine. You spoke of riding it long distance, contrary to popular belief you don't need a 900 pound couch on wheels to get past the city limits. I rode my 1972 Honda DOHC 450 cc twin on a 2000 mile ride after I turned it into a cafe racer, 47 years ago, it did fine.
Have fun!
The Drag Spec mounts are firmer and so last longer but transmit more vibration. The reason the bike vibrates is that the crank is not balanced for the individual piston weights but for a weight halfway between 883 & 1200 (cast) piston weights in order to save on production costs - Thanks H-D !
I fitted a Hammer Performance 1250 engine kit - and the (forged) pistons are the right weight for the crankshaft's balancing factor and so the bike feels smoother.
Another way to deal with the vibes in the 'bars is to use handlebar weights - I made my own out of steel and it worked though I did notice more vibrations in the footrests.
When fitting the rear engine mounts I had fun because the inner spindle was seized into the cases and I had to almost remove the engine from the frame - not easy but I did it with no hoist or help.
I found that removal of all the 'movement ties' aided the fitting of the mounts though - shame I didn't realise that until after spending so long on the front right hand side mount ! Once I had removed the rear tie (under the back of the engine) whilst trying to get the rear right mount out, the removal and fitting of the front right became so much easier.
If I were doing this again, I would remove all the ties and both front and rear caps, spindles - everything and leave the motor sitting loosely in the upright frame before fitting the front AND rear right hand mounts, THEN the left hand ones and caps and spindles and LASTLY the ties.
Glad I found your Video! I needed that 1/8" on that front right mount. My HD shop manual doesn't mention removing the exhaust and/or the crossover pipe. Once I removed the crossover, Mount was out! All for an 1/8" Tx! Great Video!
Glad I could help
Another great video!
good video, nice that you are just being honest and taking it easy.
Thanks for sharing this process as I find myself wrenching on my own 05 Sportster your real world insight is appreciated. Looking forward to next video.
I'm just waiting on my first Harley, should be with me in 4 days! So I'm just consuming a lot of sportster content to fill the void. I really enjoyed this video and you sir have the patience of a saint! Anyway I hope you do a ride review on the vibration as this is a small concern of mine...I used to ride a KTM 640 smc and it was the worst bike iv ever owned...it was so vibey it would blur my vision at certain rpms! I'm hoping the Sportster is not like this....I guess I should have test rode one before buying 😂. Anyway thanks again🙂
I am glad this video popped up. I just purchased an 06 sportster and as I was going through it I can see the lack of maintenance. I will be doing the motor mounts in time. This almost convinced me to let someone else do it. But I can see I could take care of a few things at the same time. A new belt and tires along with brake pads. I just hope it won't take me days.
Good job.
I would have a shop do the job. It looks like too much work for me to do. More power to you!
I'm watching, I tried a lot of bars ,10 miles in hands were killing me, went back to buckhorn bars that came on the bike, no problem, these came on deluxe and huggers also put them on my wide glide problem solved, you'll luv em
yay, another man that takes days to do a "couple of hours work" Shawn, a minute critism would be some tighter angles on the work area, when possible, it's more important that you can see and do the task not having a camera in the way. looking forward to the rest of the series, Mike
Fair play to you,you stuck at it.i have this same model 2005 14,000 miles.im not nearly competent to do this job myself.😂🇬🇧👍
Yes you are.
did the change make a difference?
Wondering what tires you put on that are giving you such high mileage?
MAN! I put new rubber mounts in my 2003 Road King and it wasn't as involved as this , but it was a pain. Had to walk away a few times. I just bought a 2004 Sportster and I hope I don't have to go through all of this! What year is your bike and the mileage?
'05, 16,000. If yours are original I bet they're clapped out too. It's an age thing I think.
The easiest way for removing in the front right is to knock the tube out from the inside once you remove the left side with I believe a 17 mm socket. And then take your new one and pound out the center tube. Install the right engine mount and then tap the tube in from the outside.
Bad thing about rubber mounting is maintenance.My solid mount frame don't need any maintenance. On an early Norton Commando you have to disassemble half the bike to do the same thing. Nothing has cracked, broken,or has fallen off.Still have original bulbs so my bike doesn't vibrate too much. 25 years and counting.