Replacing Rear Rubber Motor Mounts Harley Sportster 2004 and Up
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Rear rubber motor mount replacement Harly Sportster 2004 and up. Detailed procedure on how to replace the rear rubber motor mounts on a rubber mounted Harley Sportster motor, models 2004 and up.
Very good video and superb job , not easy working bent on the floor with the bike on a small jack . Hoping you get a motorcycle lift table.
Well done 👍
just did mine on my 2008 xl the front ones are the biggest pain rear way easier good luck
Thank you Ben. I also just replaced by front rubber mounts and you are right that the front right mount was a problem! I made a video of that also that I will be sharing after editing.
Hello from Kevin Hill situation being leaking valve seal trying to remove rocker and head now thinking about lowering motor just 1/4 inch to remove top end am I headed in correct direction
I couldn't get the inner spindle out and only got to that stage after I had already changed the front mounts, so it was a case of taking all the front mount stuff off again and just have the engine sitting in the frame 'loop'. I hear H-D changed the design on later bikes and it is possible to retro-fit IF you can get the old inner spindle out !
I had so much fun changing that right-hand rear mount that putting everything back together after changing it seemed like childsplay - not something I'd like to do again and I found the new Drag Spec mounts to be so much firmer than the original softer H-D ones. It sharprnened up the handling so much that I forgive the new mounts for the increase in vibrations - thankfully I had fitted a Hammer 1250 kit so that the engine was a lot better balanced than standard. I cannot imagine how firmer mounts and the poor engine balancing off the stock bike would feel !
My bike handled better to. It was worth the trouble. Thanks for watching!
@@motorcycleridingandrepair1627 I did the engine mounts years ago and have also - just two or three years ago - fitted 50% stronger fork springs, race tech Emulators along with extended damper rods to give more ground clearance and more suspension travel resulting in a much smoother ride when coupled with longer rear shocks.
I am onl 5'9" and had to used lowering blocks because the new rear shocks made the bike too tall for my liking. The lowering blocks made the ride a little softer and - at 65 years young - I find this bike to be such fun to ride. If only I could win a lottery and send my engine to Hammer Performance for a 90 inch kit to be fitted !
Thanks for the details of your repair! Nice!
@@thakery5720 I built a Hammer 90 inch. Nice but I enjoy my Hammer 1250 and 1275 better because they are more reliable.
I love those Hammer motors!
Great video, good work! I would replace swingarm bearings as well since you removed the swingarm anyway :)
i replaced mine with solids front and back, vibration, but much better handling noticeably improved
Im going to do the same thing. I have had two older Sportsters not rubber mounted and the vibration never bothered me. I have a 2004 Sportster now that I am going to put a LowBrow set of solids in it and count it done. I just got this 04 a couple of weeks ago and never thought about the rubber mounting.
Just wondering did this replacement improve stability in higher speed corners?
Hey Alex it helped all around for stability.
What a video show! It was what I was looking for! Could you comment on whether you needed to change the scale bearings and how long it took to do the work. Hugs straight from Brazil.
I am not sure what you mean by the scale bearings?
Great video! Thanks. I recently purchased a 2012 xl1200c with 7000 miles. When I roll on the throttle at any RPM or gear I get a vibration/shudder. I recently discovered that if I, “ever so SLIGHTLY pull the clutch lever in but not enough to cause slippage, the vibration disappears”. I can even hold the clutch lever steady at this position and accelerate without any vibration. I suspected something in the clutch basket so I pulled all my clutch plates and inspected. They all look excellent with very little wear, even the dreaded center clutch spring plate is tightly fitted together with no rivets loose. Do you think my vibration/shudder is caused by weak/ bad motor mounts? The reason I ask is you said that replacing yours "took the funny shake out of the ride." I’m at my wits end! Other than motor mounts I'm thinking maybe be a weak clutch spring? Or am I looking in the wrong place? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love your videos! Please keep them coming
Hey there Steve thank you for the kind comments! Your condition sounds like it was the same type that I was experiencing. I would really doubt that it would be coming from a weak clutch spring. Try looking at the bolt and nut on your front rubber motor mount which is known to come lose. You will need I believe two 1" sockets to tighten it up. The general rule is that there should be about two threads showing on the bolt when the nut is tightened. At lease take a look because if it is lose this could help your vibration.
Bo it is really hard to tell what it might be. Vibrations are very hard to diagnosis, especially by email. It does sound like it could be one or the other though. Good luck.
Hi Mark, Are you using Bitubo shocks on the rear of this bike also ?
Hey there Gary! No Bitubo's on this one. I did put a set of Performance shocks on the rear though. I also recently covered the rear shocks up with a set of HD hard saddle bags so you can not tell they are there. I am planning on making a review and ride of this bike after I get is situated and complete more of the work that I am doing to it. Thanks Gary. Take care my friend!
Are you using that screwdriver as a wedge to support the rear of the engine while replacing the pivot shaft?
My service manual is telling me to support it with a jack but I don't think I have a jack small enough to get back there while on a scissor lift...
Yes I did.
@@motorcycleridingandrepair1627 thanks for the reply. I'm going to be doing a complete swingarm replacement soon here and figured I would do the pivot shaft and engine mounts while I'm back there. This video really helped me figure out how to approach it. Thanks a ton
@@kyleeklund2930 Good luck with your project!
Are the rubbers the same used in 2002 buell thunderbolt?
Thanks a bunch this video helped me.
Is there any link where i can Buy all those rubber mounts ???
@Valstrax99 To convert over to the newer bolt style you'll need to purchase Harley Part number 47500004 (SHAFT, SWING ARM PIVOT). The isolators remain the same part number throughout the rubber mount era (Harley Part Number 48492-04A) so no change there. Or, you can order Drag Specialties Part Number 1146716 (Rear Isolator Motor Mount Kit For Harley Sportster 2014-2022) which will convert you over to the newer style single-bolt setup and include slightly more firm isolators with the kit. However, in either scenario you'll need to purchase the full length swingarm pivot bolt (Harley Part number 47500005) and the nut and c-clip that goes on the end of the bolt to go with this setup (Harley Part 47500006 for the bolt and 12200047 for the retaining clip), instead of the older 2004-2013 arrangement that used bolts on each side of the swingarm. You should be able to find a used full length swingarm bolt with hardware for about $20 on eBay.
Hello i m french and i have got a problem with the rubber that i have change on My sportster 2007! I change rubber screws the axle and the Bearing but My swing arm moves a lot at the level of the fixing on the motor ! Help me please ✌️✌️✌️✌️
Good job!
Thanks for watching and the comment dsonictube!!
Thank you for making this video , I have a 2016 Iron so I know at some point I’ll be needing to do this type of maintenance as well . So you herd the drag specialties rubbermounts are a little more stiff than oem? I’m wondering what your opinion is on the drag specialties mounts compared to a polyurethane type of replacement? Or are the polyurethane mounts more for drag racing and mabey to stiff for a street bike? And thank you again for taking the time to make this video . Anything about repairing and building /tuning the newer sportsters is always a huge help . Keep them coming my friend.👍😎
@@ghostdog1874 I am sorry Ghostdog but I do not know anything about the other polyurethane mounts. My mechanic friend suggested that the Drag mounts were suppose to be good with a little more stiffness so I went with them. I am use to the 2003 and back rigid mounted evolution Sportster so when I first road my 2007 1200R the motor seemed like it felt like it was a little "lose" so I went through the replacement trouble to try to stiffen up the feel a little. I also replaced the front mounts with an additional video to be released soon. I ran into another issue of a broken exhaust stud during this project so I have not been able to test yet. I will get back after testing.
Harley Racing Riding & Repair looking forward to the next video , sorry to hear about the broken exaughst stud . Hopefully that repair goes smoothly. That actually might also be a good video to make for everyone. I bet a broken stud is a pretty common issue.
@@ghostdog1874 When I removed the front exhaust pipe it was only held in by one stud. The other stud had been drilled out and removed. Whoever drilled it out did not do a good job and the hole was partly bigger than the heli-coil that I used. So I used JB weld on the heli coil and let it set up with a new stud. It is working for now but to do it properly the head will need to be removed and fix by an insert or welding. This may give me a future reason to have the heads ported and installing a 1250 kit. My embarrassing repair job did not deserve a video at this time. Maybe later with the proper repair method.
You don't happen to know the swing arm pivot bolt torque spec?
60 to 70 lbs.
Mine is leaking oil why would that be ?what do I need to do?
It is hard to say where the oil is coming from but it is not the motor mounts.
You should have upgraded the Pivot to the newer single long bolt with nut, while replacing the motor mounts. I just did the upgrade on my 2006 XL1200L today. They don't make the solid 2 bolt style Pivot anymore. The single bolt hollow Pivot is easier to deal with.
How did you find the parts for the swap i can't anywhere is it just an exact swap like take out my shaft and just use a bolt???
Any update on the newer style single bolt pivot system ? I am having to drill and pin my pivot now to remove swing arm and continue motor mount job unfortunately
If you use the single bolt,do you removed the old ones?
Part number on the newer bolt style??
@@willcountypowersports6338 To convert over to the newer bolt style you'll need to purchase Harley Part number 47500004 (SHAFT, SWING ARM PIVOT). The isolators remain the same part number throughout the rubber mount era (Harley Part Number 48492-04A) so no change there. Or, you can order Drag Specialties Part Number 1146716 (Rear Isolator Motor Mount Kit For Harley Sportster 2014-2022) which will convert you over to the newer style single-bolt setup and include slightly more firm isolators with the kit. However, in either scenario you'll need to purchase Harley Part number 47500005 (BOLT) to go with this setup, instead of the older 2004-2013 arrangement that used bolts on each side of the swingarm.