It’s actually a very well written and comprehensive book ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 . I wanted to pair this with an updated book on local codes to start planning a post-retirement dream shop. I think I have just about everything I need between the two. The extra plans available for purchase towards the end are priced almost as much as full home plans, not little sheds however.
Glad I stumbled upon your video! I have a gable porch over a deck, attached to the house and supported by 2 6x6 posts. I am thinking about vaulting the ceiling. I've been trying to figure out the best way to support the rafters. After watching your video I am now wondering if the ceiling joists are actually stabilizing the rafters...
Is this easier (in your opinion) than just making a few trusses on the ground and lifting them into place (followed by the perpendicular boards to hold them)?
The issue with trusses is that they have to be designed by an engineer if you want to use them in a house or anything that you are going to put through council really. If your just doing a chookshed or a dog house then making your own trusses is the way to go. Hope this helps.
Hi Mate, Conventional refers to the way that the roof is constructed not the type of roof so a Gable roof can be a conventional roof but it can also be a trussed roof.
Always check your local/national building codes. In the US, typically 24", but that can be shorter depending on location and maximum known wind speeds for the area.
Hi Mate, It is usually a two person job but the rafters, once nailed at the birdsmouth, can be rested against each other while you slip the ridge up from underneath.
Can you do a similar design but this time for a double leaf home like in UK. So in this case the two gable walls would continue up in brick/block up to the ridge. How Do the rafters work in such a building?
Hi Damien, all thats different is that the inside leaf replaces that Gable wall in the video and the outriggers are supported on the brick/blocks. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum Your response is greatly appreciated : ) Quick follow on question please.... Would you ever rest a wooden ridge board (like in your video) on top of the inner leaf gable wall for support (and cement it in)? - I seen videos were the ridge seems to be totally **independent** of the brick/wall gable walls (pikes). So the first rafters on each side, comes up to meet the ridge ***in between**** the two brick/block leafs ****but they absolutely never**** connect to the gables in any way. (I guess this is to stop wind force acting on the roof knocking the gable walls out ) - But then again, I also seen retrofit video (attic conversions) were a H beam replaces the ridge board and ***actually sits*** on the top of the inner leaf and the rafters come up to meet it. (sometimes 3 H beams are used in this scenario one @ ridge 2 @ each side of cavity closers and struts come up vertical from then to hit rafters for support) Can you give a video for these two types of use cases if you ever find time?
Hi Damien, both are acceptable methods. The only problem with supporting a timber ridge on a masonry wall would be the possible moisture transfer so I would make sure that the ridge is wrapped in DPC if you were to use this method. No promises on a videos sorry.
The Purlins and Struts support, rule of thumb? what is the maximum distance allowed between Purlin before other Struts must be installed to support the purlin ?
Hi Mate, a rule of thumb is only applicable if you are using the same size and strength grade timber on every job as it changes for each size and grade. Purlins need to be spaced so the rafters do not exceed their maximum allowable span and struts must be installed so the purlin doesn't exceed their maximum allowable span. These videos may help:= ua-cam.com/video/DjSvs4pxN0c/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/sqFLfeF0F5o/v-deo.html
Very good. You don't need the purlings unless you want to over kill it and spend more money and time. The only time you need those is if the span is greater than the 2x member requires. Also, collar ties are not needed if you have ceiling joists that tie into the rafters. I idea for a collar tie is to keep the rafters from spreading, which the ceiling joist do. Over all a good video.
Hi Edward, thanks for your comment, however, I have to correct you on a couple of points. Firstly Purlins are required whenever your rafter spans further than it' maximum permissible span in AS 1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction. However, I agree that there are situations where increasing the size of the rafter and therefore it's span would be more economical than the time and materials required for Purlins, Struts and supporting beams. Secondly and again according to AS1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction, Collar ties are required on ALL coupled roofs whether they have a ceiling or not, furthermore, if you have more than one row of Purlins you can actually end up with multiple runs of Collar Ties (Appendix I). Without knowing where you are from it is hard to know what your local requirements are but these are the requirements for Australia as per the Standard. Hope this helps
If you live in Arizona mate then why are you commenting like you know how a roof should be framed in Australia? Bet you didn’t even know Australia has different building codes for both non-cyclonic and cyclonic regions....Arrogance and stupidity at its finest, good job mate, well done.
Also you clearly have no idea of how timber span tables work if you are using 4x2 rafters which is the most common size of rafters used in Australia and what collar ties actually achieve.
What a great breakdown of the components. Love the gable wall construction for adding outlookers. Curious if anyone can comment on what size roof one would start to consider purlins absolutely necessary?
Hi Darrell, thanks for your comment, the requirement for purlins is dependent on the span of your rafters. It is often more econominal to increase your rafter size eliminating the need for purlins rather than the time and cost of the purlins, struts and strutting beams.
@@Buildsum Thanks. Inspires curiosity. I've only built smaller structures (and tend towards overbuilding)...but find the engineering behind it a bit fascinating. :)
Hi Mate, it doesnt matter as long as you dont exceed the max spacing centres. Yes i would out the outriggers as low as possible to provide extra support to the verge rafter.
Verge rafter can be a 2x6x14 that's what m using for my common rafters cause of how long my rafters are but my top frame are 2x4s so how would I secure the end of the verge plate to the frame
Hi Nelson, I'm not exactaly sure what you are asking however if you are saying that your outriggers are going to be 2x4s and your rafters are 2x6 then you would have to position the outriggers on the lower side of the rafters so they will contact the verge plate and secure the plate to them. Hope this helps.
Hi Mate, I can't be 100% certain however there are circumstances where some sizes don't work well with standard member sizes. This means that not only do you get a lot of waste from the process but you also spend extra time and labour cutting members to the required size. Perhaps it is a popular size but just not efficient in using the stock material sizes. Hope this helps.
Not sure how to word this but what is the ratio of how much gable overhang you can have? As in, what fraction of the ‘outrigger’ length overhangs the roof vs stays on the roof. (That is unbelievably hard to put into words) Cheers.
My contractor is just about to order my manufactured truss for my home and I am realizing that my engineer may not have remembered that I want as much storage as possible above my new living room. (Although I would think he would have asked me???) I am adding 900 square feet to my 1400 sq ft home. Although I cant read plans, it seems to be calling for a gable truss, 24" on center. I see other notes like California framing, and also a tie truss & valley truss. The plan shows pull down stairs, but I am worried that the stairs are pointless if I cant use the space for storage. I have lots of bins, memorabilia, skis, etc.. I would like to store. Should I stop the order, and go back to the engineer? Do I need to request a specific "attic truss"? I didn't vault the ceiling specifically so I could use the space for storage.
LindazVideos Hi Linda A truss roof will give you a lot of storage space however, depending on the size of the roof, there will be no room to move around because of the trusses This Video might give you some idea of what a truss roof will look like. ua-cam.com/video/P4i58xnvIAA/v-deo.html An attic truss would give you a lot more usable space It might be worth talking to your contractor about how he plans to give you the storage you require before you order. Its hard to comment with out seeing the whole picture but I hope this helps
Hi there. Is there a general rule of thumb if a roof requires purlins (calculations, size of roof etc)? For example if someone wanted exposed rafters (ceiling) and didn't want the look of purlins, can a ridge beam be used instead?
Hi Mark, no not really as it differs depending on the materials and the size of the rafters. Using a Ridge beam won't help as the Purlins is there to support the rafters where they can't span the required distance. ua-cam.com/video/DjSvs4pxN0c/v-deo.html However, if you increase the size of the rafter so it can span the required distance then you will not need a Purlin. ua-cam.com/video/X7eG88FpLI0/v-deo.html Hope this helps
So I want to build a gable roof over my already established roof. but not for sure if the walls can hold the weight how would I do this and keep most of the weight off the walls? if possible
Hi Randy. Firstly, Why? I would assume that you want to change the appearance in some way. This could be done by just adding gable to the existing roof rather than building a whole new roof. This would depend on what you want from the end result. You could use this Scotch Valley technique to create a Gable end over a Hipped end
the problem I'm having is the ceiling is around a foot from the actual roof and I don't know alot about this kinda stuff but I can't keep my home cool in the summer or warm in the winter. any ideas?
I'm sure u know what kinda roof I'm talking about. it's like a dome and the metal is thin and it has no plywood at all. just kinda sitting there. I'm not a rich man and I would appreciate any idea on what I can do to help keep my home cool and warm
Hi Randy, Yes i get the picture now. The first thing i would look at is Insulation and Ventilation. If the Roof/Ceiling is not insulated then even putting a Gable roof on the building won't stop the heat transfer from the roof space. I would put Insulation batts in first, this may mean that you have to remove the roof sheets. I would also use a reflective insulation blanket between the batts and the Metal and if you can create an air gap that has plenty of ventilation between the metal and the insulation,then that will let the heat disperse outside rather than radiate into your home.
HI Todd, I'm not sure why you would wrap the facia around the verge rafter, it is usually just attached to the outside of the rafter with nails or screws for timber facia and brackets for Metal fascia. The underside is then covered by the eave sheets and the top by the roof finish.
Great videos. Its better when the video is short and informative. is there a standard how much the outrigger can cantilever over the verge plate? cheers
Hi Mark, i usually just measure it of the Pattern Rafter, the length from the long point to long point of the verge rafter is equal to the distance along the bottom of the rafter from the plumb cut at the ridge to the start of the level cut of the Birdsmouth. To calculate it you would have to work out the length of the Rafter and then minus the length of the hypotenuse of the Birdsmouth. Hope this helps
Hey mate, great video. I watched as I'm planning a 3 x 3 free standing pergola with a gable roof. Do you know where I could find plans to determine the materials I would need along with angles of cuts etc? Any advice you could offer would be amazing!
Hi Mate, I don't know off any plans however I do have a few more videos that may help if you haven't seen them before. This playlist has the Gable Roof pattern rafter in it which will help you work out the lengths required. ua-cam.com/play/PLHFT_d-5EhN69uEyQtjFk5l5xo8_kgeQL.html This playlist goes into the angles however it is for a Hip roof so you would only need the Plumb and Level Bevel common rafter for the Gable Roof. there are a few different methods of getting these angle that I show so just use the one that you think works best for you. ua-cam.com/video/UXkWyNcNM7g/v-deo.html This playlist goes into the way to work out the amount and length of the members that you will need: ua-cam.com/video/XWPXJgTmDBI/v-deo.html As for the sizes of the members required you really need to refer to your local standards or use a manufacturers set of span tables or an online tool like this one www.hyne.com.au/knowledge-centre/planning-tools/timber-design-software Hope all this helps
Hi mate thanks again for the video . Just on the ridge, 1684 states that the ridge is a non structural component used to locate / stabilise the rafters and should be a depth no less then the plumb cut of the rafters . My question is what size ridge board/ pruduct would you recommend if my ridge was 7.5m long and I'm using 190x35 for rafters ? I'm trying to stear clear of using lgl/lvl to keep the cost down and would like to know what you would use . Thanks JMS
Hi JMS, so it would depend on the pitch of the roof. So let's assume a 25-degree pitch. So 0.190 / Cos 25 = 0.209. So the Ridge would need to be at least 0.209mm wide and a minimum of 19mm thick. The length is not really an issue as you can join the ridge ua-cam.com/video/UR0-aClFZ1Q/v-deo.html So you will probably have to use something around 240 wide x 19mm thick and maybe need a couple of joins. Hope this helps
I have a question. I understand how to fit let's say 30 degrees onto the square by using the half span but when it comes to using say 40 degrees with the half span (1m divided by 2 = 500mm on blade and 419.5 on tongue) it doesn't fit on the tongue of the square. Could you please shed some light on this as it's driving me nuts! Thank you
Hi Mark If dividing by 2 doesn't make the measurement small enough to fit on the square then divide both numbers by 3 or even 4 until they both fit. ua-cam.com/video/DJ34JxKZcEQ/v-deo.html Hope this helps
does anyone know the proper way to nail the outlookers/outriggers to the 2nd rafter? end nail? metal brackets? what kind of nails/schedule? what about nailing to gable end top plate? Lastly, when adding an overhang and the ridge beam needs to be extended, how is this done? thanks!
Hi I usually just end nail through the rafter and then skew on to the top plate, however trip-l-grips would do a better job.As to extending the ridge this document may help mikestrade.sydneyinstitute.wikispaces.net/file/view/Basic+Roof+Part+2+-+pages+27+to+46.pdf
It is held by the outriggers that counter lever over the Gable wall.They are then strengthened when the roof battens come over the top and the fascia attached at the bottom helps as well
Hello. Im having trouble finding the sectional size of the Ridge. Can you please help me with the Ridge size for a gable roof similar to this one. It will have a span of 4m and a length of 6m. Thank you Graeme
HI Graeme, the ridge size just has to be greater than the plumb cut of the rafter and at least 19mm thick. ua-cam.com/video/6wQmvoMtr7E/v-deo.html Hope this helps
Hi mate Jono again , my roof that I'm building for my shed is 7.3 X 6m 15degree pitch and is a cathedral ceiling (exposed rafters with no ceiling joists ) will I need to install collar ties even though I don't have underpurlins or struts. Rafter size is 190x45 any help would be appreciated
Buildsum thankyou for your reply I was just concerned about downward Forse and trying to stop the outer walls from pushing out . Just in relation to your tention and compression video on trusses . Thanks again .. shed is coming along nicely by the way
If it is a gable roof you can beef up the size of the Ridge and turn it into a ridge beam and then prop it on the Gable Wall so it takes some of the load off the side walls.
Hello,, what is the name of the central lower board running the length of the roof which looks like the same size as the ridge board and parallel to it?
Thanks for the video mate. excellent teaching. I'm in my pre app but Im drafting plans for a cubby and we havent covered roofing in the course yet. so you have really visually helped me apart from my books for Tafe. Many Thanks.
Hi Buildsum, funny, I'm a TAFE teacher at Ultimo in Sydney (Cert 4 & Diploma) also and use Sketchup a lot - have lots of drawings on sketchup. Gerald is the name (only Gerald there). What do you teach?
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Hi James, maybe, however the chance of this roof matching your or anyone elses requirements is pretty small and this video is only to show the steps of erecting the roof, the details of how it is constructed is covered in other videos.
Cheers for this, I have been researching "how to build a gable porch overhang" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing exclusive product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate got amazing results with it.
@Buildsum This was great, thanks, I have been researching "what should the pitch of a shed roof be?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing one off guide for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some super things about it and my cousin got cool results with it.
Hi Mate, no not really, you need to have the Ridge in place to build the wall anyway and you need to line the top plates up with the underside of the rafter so that the outriggers will work so it easier to do this once the rafters are in.
If it’s a cathedral/vaulted ceiling then yes it is easier and structurally better to build gable end walls all as one so that you have full length studs to sit your ridge on. Easy if you know how to calculate it all, which doesn’t actually take that long as much as people may argue it does.
Wow, clearly you have no idea which books to buy and how much knowledge you can gain from them when it comes to both simple and complex roof framing. Good luck with it all mate!
@@waltermatthau8329 LOOK KAREN.....I'M NOT HERE TO MAKE HISTORY...........TEACHING IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS 123....not any body has what it takes to teach..........you understand me?.........in short: just because someone writes a book about something......that doesn't mean your book is the biggest great thing.????so do me a favor...........chill the fuck down..........understand.
Yeah I can tell by your spelling and punctuation that you’re too lazy to read a book and possibly too stupid to grasp the trigonometry and geometry involved in roof framing...You’re an idiot and extremely ignorant, in more ways than one 👍🙂.
This is glorious, I been tryin to find out about "how to frame a gable roof step by step" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one of a kind product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my neighbour got amazing results with it.
Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "sloped roof construction diagram" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (do a google search ) ? It is a good one off product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my friend got amazing success with it.
It’s actually a very well written and comprehensive book ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 . I wanted to pair this with an updated book on local codes to start planning a post-retirement dream shop. I think I have just about everything I need between the two. The extra plans available for purchase towards the end are priced almost as much as full home plans, not little sheds however.
Hi Michelle, each roof shape and type have there own advantages and disadvantages depending on what you need the roof to do.
your way of teaching is exceptional. Understood everything. you've simplified complex things, step by step. thanks for the good work.
Thanks Mate, Great to hear!
By far the best of the gable roof how to videos
Thanks Mate, I'm glad it was helpful.
Hi Im building a 9x3.5 workshop in my back garden. I am just starting the roof now and am using this video as a guide. Well done and thankyou!
Thanks Neil, Its great to hear that you are geting some use out of these videos.
Glad I stumbled upon your video! I have a gable porch over a deck, attached to the house and supported by 2 6x6 posts. I am thinking about vaulting the ceiling. I've been trying to figure out the best way to support the rafters. After watching your video I am now wondering if the ceiling joists are actually stabilizing the rafters...
Hi Mate, You can remove the ceiling joists but you will need to leave the Collar ties in place
Is this easier (in your opinion) than just making a few trusses on the ground and lifting them into place (followed by the perpendicular boards to hold them)?
The issue with trusses is that they have to be designed by an engineer if you want to use them in a house or anything that you are going to put through council really. If your just doing a chookshed or a dog house then making your own trusses is the way to go. Hope this helps.
Thanks for a great teaching video, is gable roof a conventional roof?
Hi Mate, Conventional refers to the way that the roof is constructed not the type of roof so a Gable roof can be a conventional roof but it can also be a trussed roof.
@@Buildsum thank you 😊
Thanks!
Great video extremely well explained , man you should be a teacher
Hi Brett, thanks, I'm glad you think that because I am a teacher.
Excellent, is there legal lengths for span of the outriggers over the barge rafter
Hi the rule of thumb for any cantilever is that they must be supported to 2/3 of their length and only have 1/3 sticking out.
Always check your local/national building codes. In the US, typically 24", but that can be shorter depending on location and maximum known wind speeds for the area.
Great video! Probably a silly question but what is holding the first two sets rafters in place before the ridge beam goes up?
Hi Mate, It is usually a two person job but the rafters, once nailed at the birdsmouth, can be rested against each other while you slip the ridge up from underneath.
Can you do a similar design but this time for a double leaf home like in UK. So in this case the two gable walls would continue up in brick/block up to the ridge. How Do the rafters work in such a building?
Hi Damien, all thats different is that the inside leaf replaces that Gable wall in the video and the outriggers are supported on the brick/blocks. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum Your response is greatly appreciated : )
Quick follow on question please....
Would you ever rest a wooden ridge board (like in your video) on top of the inner leaf gable wall for support (and cement it in)?
- I seen videos were the ridge seems to be totally **independent** of the brick/wall gable walls (pikes). So the first rafters on each side, comes up to meet the ridge ***in between**** the two brick/block leafs ****but they absolutely never**** connect to the gables in any way. (I guess this is to stop wind force acting on the roof knocking the gable walls out )
- But then again, I also seen retrofit video (attic conversions) were a H beam replaces the ridge board and ***actually sits*** on the top of the inner leaf and the rafters come up to meet it. (sometimes 3 H beams are used in this scenario one @ ridge 2 @ each side of cavity closers and struts come up vertical from then to hit rafters for support) Can you give a video for these two types of use cases if you ever find time?
Hi Damien, both are acceptable methods. The only problem with supporting a timber ridge on a masonry wall would be the possible moisture transfer so I would make sure that the ridge is wrapped in DPC if you were to use this method. No promises on a videos sorry.
Would this type of framing be sufficient to support the weight of a spanish tile roof?
Hi Mate, sure, as long as you use the correct timber sizes to take the load.
The Purlins and Struts support, rule of thumb? what is the maximum distance allowed between Purlin before other Struts must be installed to support the purlin ?
Hi Mate, a rule of thumb is only applicable if you are using the same size and strength grade timber on every job as it changes for each size and grade. Purlins need to be spaced so the rafters do not exceed their maximum allowable span and struts must be installed so the purlin doesn't exceed their maximum allowable span. These videos may help:=
ua-cam.com/video/DjSvs4pxN0c/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/sqFLfeF0F5o/v-deo.html
Very good. You don't need the purlings unless you want to over kill it and spend more money and time. The only time you need those is if the span is greater than the 2x member requires. Also, collar ties are not needed if you have ceiling joists that tie into the rafters. I idea for a collar tie is to keep the rafters from spreading, which the ceiling joist do. Over all a good video.
Hi Edward, thanks for your comment, however, I have to correct you on a couple of points.
Firstly Purlins are required whenever your rafter spans further than it' maximum permissible span in AS 1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction. However, I agree that there are situations where increasing the size of the rafter and therefore it's span would be more economical than the time and materials required for Purlins, Struts and supporting beams.
Secondly and again according to AS1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction, Collar ties are required on ALL coupled roofs whether they have a ceiling or not, furthermore, if you have more than one row of Purlins you can actually end up with multiple runs of Collar Ties (Appendix I).
Without knowing where you are from it is hard to know what your local requirements are but these are the requirements for Australia as per the Standard.
Hope this helps
Thanks for your comments. I live in Arizona where we use the International Residential Code.
If you live in Arizona mate then why are you commenting like you know how a roof should be framed in Australia? Bet you didn’t even know Australia has different building codes for both non-cyclonic and cyclonic regions....Arrogance and stupidity at its finest, good job mate, well done.
Also you clearly have no idea of how timber span tables work if you are using 4x2 rafters which is the most common size of rafters used in Australia and what collar ties actually achieve.
What a great breakdown of the components. Love the gable wall construction for adding outlookers. Curious if anyone can comment on what size roof one would start to consider purlins absolutely necessary?
Hi Darrell, thanks for your comment, the requirement for purlins is dependent on the span of your rafters. It is often more econominal to increase your rafter size eliminating the need for purlins rather than the time and cost of the purlins, struts and strutting beams.
@@Buildsum Thanks. Inspires curiosity. I've only built smaller structures (and tend towards overbuilding)...but find the engineering behind it a bit fascinating. :)
Excellent explanation. Great work.
Thanks Mate, I'm glad you liked it!
Great Summary - you should create a program that works out doing this for a 3800mm x 2400mm shed frame
Have you done your rafter centres from the centreline or over into from ridge down to the topplate? Would you but an outrigger on the topplate?
Hi Mate, it doesnt matter as long as you dont exceed the max spacing centres. Yes i would out the outriggers as low as possible to provide extra support to the verge rafter.
@@Buildsum thanks.
Verge rafter can be a 2x6x14 that's what m using for my common rafters cause of how long my rafters are but my top frame are 2x4s so how would I secure the end of the verge plate to the frame
Hi Nelson, I'm not exactaly sure what you are asking however if you are saying that your outriggers are going to be 2x4s and your rafters are 2x6 then you would have to position the outriggers on the lower side of the rafters so they will contact the verge plate and secure the plate to them. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much. But do you have a video of the calculations and how to determine and cut all the angles etc? Cheers 😉
Hi, Nick, I have a playlist that goes through most of this for Gable roofing.
ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html
Why is the 8x6 priced higher than the next larger shed?
Hi Mate, I can't be 100% certain however there are circumstances where some sizes don't work well with standard member sizes. This means that not only do you get a lot of waste from the process but you also spend extra time and labour cutting members to the required size. Perhaps it is a popular size but just not efficient in using the stock material sizes. Hope this helps.
Not sure how to word this but what is the ratio of how much gable overhang you can have?
As in, what fraction of the ‘outrigger’ length overhangs the roof vs stays on the roof.
(That is unbelievably hard to put into words)
Cheers.
Hi Mate, I am not aware of any specific ratio however the allowable overhang distance is given in the span tables for the different timbers.
My contractor is just about to order my manufactured truss for my home and I am realizing that my engineer may not have remembered that I want as much storage as possible above my new living room. (Although I would think he would have asked me???)
I am adding 900 square feet to my 1400 sq ft home.
Although I cant read plans, it seems to be calling for a gable truss, 24" on center. I see other notes like California framing, and also a tie truss & valley truss.
The plan shows pull down stairs, but I am worried that the stairs are pointless if I cant use the space for storage. I have lots of bins, memorabilia, skis, etc.. I would like to store.
Should I stop the order, and go back to the engineer? Do I need to request a specific "attic truss"?
I didn't vault the ceiling specifically so I could use the space for storage.
LindazVideos Hi Linda
A truss roof will give you a lot of storage space however, depending on the size of the roof, there will be no room to move around because of the trusses
This Video might give you some idea of what a truss roof will look like.
ua-cam.com/video/P4i58xnvIAA/v-deo.html
An attic truss would give you a lot more usable space
It might be worth talking to your contractor about how he plans to give you the storage you require before you order.
Its hard to comment with out seeing the whole picture but I hope this helps
Hi there. Is there a general rule of thumb if a roof requires purlins (calculations, size of roof etc)? For example if someone wanted exposed rafters (ceiling) and didn't want the look of purlins, can a ridge beam be used instead?
Hi Mark, no not really as it differs depending on the materials and the size of the rafters. Using a Ridge beam won't help as the Purlins is there to support the rafters where they can't span the required distance.
ua-cam.com/video/DjSvs4pxN0c/v-deo.html
However, if you increase the size of the rafter so it can span the required distance then you will not need a Purlin.
ua-cam.com/video/X7eG88FpLI0/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
Ah ok, that makes sense. I love watching your videos, very informative and easy to understand. Thanks for the reply
Thanks, Mark, Glad I could help.
Excellent presentation and information! New sub.
Hi Richard, Thanks and welcome
So I want to build a gable roof over my already established roof. but not for sure if the walls can hold the weight how would I do this and keep most of the weight off the walls? if possible
Hi Randy. Firstly, Why? I would assume that you want to change the appearance in some way. This could be done by just adding gable to the existing roof rather than building a whole new roof. This would depend on what you want from the end result.
You could use this Scotch Valley technique to create a Gable end over a Hipped end
the problem I'm having is the ceiling is around a foot from the actual roof and I don't know alot about this kinda stuff but I can't keep my home cool in the summer or warm in the winter. any ideas?
So the house has no room to breathe and roof is tin. it's a very old trailer house. just kinda done with me and my family suffering all the time
I'm sure u know what kinda roof I'm talking about. it's like a dome and the metal is thin and it has no plywood at all. just kinda sitting there. I'm not a rich man and I would appreciate any idea on what I can do to help keep my home cool and warm
Hi Randy, Yes i get the picture now. The first thing i would look at is Insulation and Ventilation. If the Roof/Ceiling is not insulated then even putting a Gable roof on the building won't stop the heat transfer from the roof space.
I would put Insulation batts in first, this may mean that you have to remove the roof sheets. I would also use a reflective insulation blanket between the batts and the Metal and if you can create an air gap that has plenty of ventilation between the metal and the insulation,then that will let the heat disperse outside rather than radiate into your home.
How would you wrap fascia around the verge rafters?
Also how would you have enough room or secure verge planks to the ridge if you're using a 2x4 ridge?
HI Todd, I'm not sure why you would wrap the facia around the verge rafter, it is usually just attached to the outside of the rafter with nails or screws for timber facia and brackets for Metal fascia. The underside is then covered by the eave sheets and the top by the roof finish.
Great videos. Its better when the video is short and informative.
is there a standard how much the outrigger can cantilever over the verge plate? cheers
Hi Josif
As with all cantilevers, it usually extends 1/3 the distance that it is supported.
How do you work out the length of the gable verge plate?
Hi Mark, i usually just measure it of the Pattern Rafter, the length from the long point to long point of the verge rafter is equal to the distance along the bottom of the rafter from the plumb cut at the ridge to the start of the level cut of the Birdsmouth. To calculate it you would have to work out the length of the Rafter and then minus the length of the hypotenuse of the Birdsmouth. Hope this helps
@@Buildsum That makes sense. Thanks Buildsum
What app did you used?
Hi Jose, i use SketchUp for all my drawings.
Hey mate, great video.
I watched as I'm planning a 3 x 3 free standing pergola with a gable roof. Do you know where I could find plans to determine the materials I would need along with angles of cuts etc? Any advice you could offer would be amazing!
Hi Mate, I don't know off any plans however I do have a few more videos that may help if you haven't seen them before.
This playlist has the Gable Roof pattern rafter in it which will help you work out the lengths required.
ua-cam.com/play/PLHFT_d-5EhN69uEyQtjFk5l5xo8_kgeQL.html
This playlist goes into the angles however it is for a Hip roof so you would only need the Plumb and Level Bevel common rafter for the Gable Roof. there are a few different methods of getting these angle that I show so just use the one that you think works best for you.
ua-cam.com/video/UXkWyNcNM7g/v-deo.html
This playlist goes into the way to work out the amount and length of the members that you will need:
ua-cam.com/video/XWPXJgTmDBI/v-deo.html
As for the sizes of the members required you really need to refer to your local standards or use a manufacturers set of span tables or an online tool like this one
www.hyne.com.au/knowledge-centre/planning-tools/timber-design-software
Hope all this helps
Hi mate thanks again for the video . Just on the ridge, 1684 states that the ridge is a non structural component used to locate / stabilise the rafters and should be a depth no less then the plumb cut of the rafters . My question is what size ridge board/ pruduct would you recommend if my ridge was 7.5m long and I'm using 190x35 for rafters ? I'm trying to stear clear of using lgl/lvl to keep the cost down and would like to know what you would use . Thanks JMS
Hi JMS, so it would depend on the pitch of the roof. So let's assume a 25-degree pitch. So 0.190 / Cos 25 = 0.209. So the Ridge would need to be at least 0.209mm wide and a minimum of 19mm thick. The length is not really an issue as you can join the ridge
ua-cam.com/video/UR0-aClFZ1Q/v-deo.html
So you will probably have to use something around 240 wide x 19mm thick and maybe need a couple of joins.
Hope this helps
I have a question. I understand how to fit let's say 30 degrees onto the square by using the half span but when it comes to using say 40 degrees with the half span (1m divided by 2 = 500mm on blade and 419.5 on tongue) it doesn't fit on the tongue of the square. Could you please shed some light on this as it's driving me nuts! Thank you
Hi Mark
If dividing by 2 doesn't make the measurement small enough to fit on the square then divide both numbers by 3 or even 4 until they both fit.
ua-cam.com/video/DJ34JxKZcEQ/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
Thank you! That makes perfect sense now. I'm currently going through my RPL in carpentry so your videos have been great
Hi Daniel
No problem at all, glad to get some feedback
Im actually a Tafe teacher in Sydney
does anyone know the proper way to nail the outlookers/outriggers to the 2nd rafter? end nail? metal brackets? what kind of nails/schedule? what about nailing to gable end top plate? Lastly, when adding an overhang and the ridge beam needs to be extended, how is this done? thanks!
Hi
I usually just end nail through the rafter and then skew on to the top plate, however trip-l-grips would do a better job.As to extending the ridge this document may help
mikestrade.sydneyinstitute.wikispaces.net/file/view/Basic+Roof+Part+2+-+pages+27+to+46.pdf
the lower part ( about 1/2) of the first overhang rafter is not supported by anything ?
It is held by the outriggers that counter lever over the Gable wall.They are then strengthened when the roof battens come over the top and the fascia attached at the bottom helps as well
Hello.
Im having trouble finding the sectional size of the Ridge. Can you please help me with the Ridge size for a gable roof similar to this one. It will have a span of 4m and a length of 6m.
Thank you Graeme
HI Graeme, the ridge size just has to be greater than the plumb cut of the rafter and at least 19mm thick.
ua-cam.com/video/6wQmvoMtr7E/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
Yes it does thank you. Plus the plumb cut of the verge plate too?
Hi Graeme, no AS 1684 only states the plumb cut of the Rafter
ok Thanks again
Hi mate
Jono again , my roof that I'm building for my shed is 7.3 X 6m 15degree pitch and is a cathedral ceiling (exposed rafters with no ceiling joists ) will I need to install collar ties even though I don't have underpurlins or struts. Rafter size is 190x45 any help would be appreciated
Hi Mate, as you are building what they call a "Non- Coupled Roof" collar ties are not required.
Buildsum thankyou for your reply I was just concerned about downward Forse and trying to stop the outer walls from pushing out . Just in relation to your tention and compression video on trusses . Thanks again .. shed is coming along nicely by the way
If it is a gable roof you can beef up the size of the Ridge and turn it into a ridge beam and then prop it on the Gable Wall so it takes some of the load off the side walls.
Hello,, what is the name of the central lower board running the length of the roof which looks like the same size as the ridge board and parallel to it?
Hi Allen
That would be the Hanging Beam, it is usually a bit thicker than the ridge.
I agree with all of the positive comments below. Very nicely done.
Thanks David
simple and to the point...excellent video!
Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like it.
what program you using to design this roof there me mate
Excellent presentation
Thanks Abdul
Thanks, very helpful
Great video
Thanks Mate
Thanks for the video mate. excellent teaching. I'm in my pre app but Im drafting plans for a cubby and we havent covered roofing in the course yet. so you have really visually helped me apart from my books for Tafe. Many Thanks.
Hi Buildsum, funny, I'm a TAFE teacher at Ultimo in Sydney (Cert 4 & Diploma) also and use Sketchup a lot - have lots of drawings on sketchup. Gerald is the name (only Gerald there). What do you teach?
Are you in US or Australia / how i can contact you. ?
Regards
+Hany Sorial Hi Hany I'm in Australia.
Buildsum@gmail.com
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Keep up the great work. Cheers
Thanks Alex, Glad you like it.
Great little shed!!
What is the software being used? I would love to learn how to represent my builds like that
+Tiago Cabral
Hi Tiago
I use Google SketchUp
Excellent. Thank you.,,
the dimensions would be helpful
Hi James, maybe, however the chance of this roof matching your or anyone elses requirements is pretty small and this video is only to show the steps of erecting the roof, the details of how it is constructed is covered in other videos.
very informative
Thanks Davy
BTW. where you from . Im from Geelong - Victoria.
Cheers for this, I have been researching "how to build a gable porch overhang" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing exclusive product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate got amazing results with it.
Hi Dyomin Ivan
I used Google Sketch up to do the drawing
@Buildsum This was great, thanks, I have been researching "what should the pitch of a shed roof be?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing one off guide for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some super things about it and my cousin got cool results with it.
It's easier and stronger to put up gable wall as a unit first
Hi Mate, no not really, you need to have the Ridge in place to build the wall anyway and you need to line the top plates up with the underside of the rafter so that the outriggers will work so it easier to do this once the rafters are in.
If it’s a cathedral/vaulted ceiling then yes it is easier and structurally better to build gable end walls all as one so that you have full length studs to sit your ridge on. Easy if you know how to calculate it all, which doesn’t actually take that long as much as people may argue it does.
thanks for the video...really help me for my study.......and research....
good video but you are NOT EXPLAING THE HOW....HOW IS DONE......step by step
Step 1. Stop whinging and buy a book on roof framing.
@@waltermatthau8329 i was but then i thought that chances are the book is worst..............:) no thank you
Wow, clearly you have no idea which books to buy and how much knowledge you can gain from them when it comes to both simple and complex roof framing. Good luck with it all mate!
@@waltermatthau8329 LOOK KAREN.....I'M NOT HERE TO MAKE HISTORY...........TEACHING IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS 123....not any body has what it takes to teach..........you understand me?.........in short: just because someone writes a book about something......that doesn't mean your book is the biggest great thing.????so do me a favor...........chill the fuck down..........understand.
Yeah I can tell by your spelling and punctuation that you’re too lazy to read a book and possibly too stupid to grasp the trigonometry and geometry involved in roof framing...You’re an idiot and extremely ignorant, in more ways than one 👍🙂.
fantastic, thank you so much !
Thanks, Adam, glad you like it.
why would u not use a straight up and down strut there?
Thank you very much for sharing this video
Nice!
Thanks!
what are the dimensions of the trusses?
I just wanted to say nice video. There is a possibility that I could be needing this information in a few weeks. LOL
This is glorious, I been tryin to find out about "how to frame a gable roof step by step" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one of a kind product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my neighbour got amazing results with it.
great
Thanks, Mate
nice. thanks
Thanks Mate
In Beavis voice, "He said 'erection'. lol. lol.".
Hi Gerald I teach Carpentry and Cert 4 in Building
Спасибо!
Thanks mate
it looks like googles drawing program 'sketch up'
Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "sloped roof construction diagram" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (do a google search ) ? It is a good one off product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my friend got amazing success with it.
Very good video!! Thank you very much!
stout roof frame - well done.
Thanks that was very clear!
Thanks David
you champ
Thanks Mate
Awesome!
Can this type of roof be done on a house 12m x 10m where the ridge would be on a longer side?
Hi Christopher, Yes, of course, it can.