The only problem is that you will collapse the shoulder. I form 308 into 6.5 Creedmoor, I tried annealing and and went from a 2% reject to a 35% reject rate. The neck would collapse into the body at the rear of the shoulder of the case. Want to make it easier, do your forming with a RCBS Rock Chucker and bolt it down into a bench that doesn't flex.
Make sure you turn the necks down after reforming 308 to 243. The neck brass thickness will be to thick. Just done 40 case . the average neck thickness was 0.018 to 0.020" thick. Turned them down to 0.013". Also make the reformed brass will chamber in your rifle. , and anneal the brass before reloading. Just couple of suggestions.
@@twintwo1429 It depends on the length of case conversion. I do .308 to 300 Savage. In my Savage 99s I have to remove thickness, or they won't chamber.
I form 308 into 6.5 Creedmoor. I use a RCBS Rock Chucker and have it bolted into a substantial bench that doesn't flex. For lube I use ISO-Heet fuel line antifreeze mixed (100% isopropyl alcohol) with 1oz of liquid lanolin. Try it, it's amazing, just spray it on in a ziploc bag and go. I also lube the inside of the neck at it's base with a Q Tip with die sizing wax on it so when the case is formed and the expander ball is forming the case neck ID there is some lube there to let the ball slip along and expand the neck to it's final size smoothly. I have literally done thousands of cases this way and it's a one stroke, relatively easy operation.
Thank you, the .303 it begin to be rare on the market and expensive , so that's wy I was looking to find an other brass to be able to realod it , Fernand
I'm thinking of doing this for my 257 weatherby, out of 7mm magnum brass of course. I'm having a hell of a time locating brass (new or used). The cheapest loaded pack of 20 at cabelas is still $89 canadian and I'm not paying that. There is a slight difference in the rounds but I think if I load them light and fire form them I'll be alright.
One key, neck turn at 30 caliber, then neck down, HUGE benefits of retarding the formation of doughnuts at the shoulder neck junction. Paul Bike makes one heck of a set of form dies with 30* shoulder angle. I make 6 XC from Lapua 308 Palma cases, PMC, Lake City, Hertenberger, all shoot tiny, tiny groups at 300 yards for hunting. Lee sizing wax, White, comes in a tooth paste tube, is perhaps the best of all the lubes that I have tried on case forming, and works like a champ in lubing the inside of the case mouth when neck turning. I neck turn with a drill press that goes down to ~250 rpm, and a variable speed 1/2" drill that is held in a bench vise, quick and easy.
I was thinking about doing something similar to FK BRNO did with their new 7.5 FK. I wan't to neck down a 10mm magnum case to 7.8mm and place a custom barrel into a Glock 20. I'm probably going to need to cut the magnum case a bit to fit in the magazines. I don't want to use straight 10mm auto because I want the overall length of the cartridge to be the same but I'm afraid necking a 10mm auto will shorten it quite a bit. It's a project, but a ways off
As far as I can tell from my reading, 303 British is the parent (it was not derived from another cartridge). Since it was developed at the turn of the century and right when smokeless powder was taking off - most cartridges from that era are their own parent (since there were so many new smokeless powder cartridges. Hope that helps.
I would do the same thinking he doing because I don't reload once fire brass would u say I am lazy of just carefull with brass that been once fire form
Tried this years a go. After resizing, put the case in my 243 win, but the bolt wouldn't close. Years later, trying to reform 6.5 mauser, too 257 Roberts, the same result .
I would switch to Redding Imperial sizing wax, then... Size in this order: 7-08 seat die w/internals removed 7-08 FL die, sans expander rod 260 Rem seat die 260 FL die 243 seat die 243 FL die w/expander rod. If you do a lot of this, it would behoove you to purchase above dies even if you don't have those guns. Who knows, you might have those guns someday. Thanks for sharing!
30-06 is not the parent case for 308. 308 is based off of 30-06, but not the parent case. Parent cases are original rass that manufacturers can reshape/resize before it's headstamped to make a different cartridge. Example- 270 win has a parent case of 30-06, so they make a bunch of 30-06 brass and before final finishing pull some out reshape/resize to 270 win. Cartridges are the same length and similar angles.
@murphyfirearmstraining3630 so you telling me The .308 Winchester has multiple parent cases, including the .30-06 Springfield, the .300 Savage, and the 7.62×51mm NATO: are not a parent case
@murphyfirearmstraining3630 and I quote "The .308 Winchester is one of those calibres that has been around for ages and is definitely here to stay, much like its parent cartridge the .30-06. " end quote
@@AndrewMurphy8383 So there is different terminology floating around on the internet and even in books. They are referring to the fact that the 308 cartridge is based on the 30-06. What I am referring to is when a cartridge company starts with a cartridge and resizes/expands/blows out that cartridge to create another. Examples include 30-06 brass is sized down to create 270 and 25-06 brass. 308 is resized to create 7mm-08 and 243. 458 win mag is created by blowing out and trimming 375h&h mag. In all these cases the head diameter, rim, and length are pretty much the same. They take the brass from one cartridge before it's completed and can change it to a different cartridge. I don't know if that answers your question, but I think folks use a lot of different terminology. Hopefully that clarifies what I mean by a parent case.
To truly make one "from scratch" would require a lot of machinery for multiple forming stations (like what starline brass has). Where you are turning a sheet of brass into a case. Now - there are some cartridges that you can start with the parent case and fire form, size up, size down, etc. This video is an example of that. You could take 375 H&H and fire form it to get 458 Lott, or fire form it and trim it to get 458 win mag as an example. To do that, you have to create bullets that are 375 diameter at the bottom and 458 diameter at the top and fire them in the rifle to fire form them. Depends on your equipment and how much you want to invest in it. But to actually go totally from scratch would be a VERY EXPENSIVE proposition. Let me know if all that makes sense and if it answers your question.
Nice video! Let me ask you, I just got a 300 PRC and even though I have looked for over a month, I can’t find brass for it anywhere. I was thinking of buying some .375 Ruger (as it’s supposed to be the parent case) and trying trim it down and then neck it down to 30 caliber. My question is squeezing down a .375 caliber to .30 caliber seems to be a decent size jump. Is this not going to push or force a lot of brass into the neck of the case? If not where does it go? Just trying to figure out if this might be an option for me. Your thoughts would be highly appreciated! Thanks so much
You are absolutely correct. Going 308 to 243 is a tough go on the brass and really about the biggest step you could make. Really should do that in two steps. Definitely want a lot of lube. If there's a way to go from 375 to like 338 then down to 30, that would be the ticket. I would also anneal the brass in the oven after that much sizing. But it could definitely work. Yes, it will cause the neck to thicken. Can turn the neck to thin it out if this is the case. Do you have PRC brass to measure off of, that would be the best way to get the newly sized brass to match.
Believe me you are better back ordering the brass and getting it when it's available. If one necks down too much you even need to consider turning the necks. If you change the brass later, you will be upset that you did nayway with the mismarked headstamps. I have done this stuff in the past and even though the brass shot OK at the time I regretted it later. I had a similar problem with getting the 6.5 PRC brass as you are with the 300 PRC, I just waited for the brass to be available and am glad I did. Brass is getting more available now. BTW some brass does not convert well. I did some 300 Black Out out of 223 brass and some manufacturers case thickness made them have ejection problems. You can have real problems with the neck thickness downsizing necks on brass. One should only do that if they are aware of that and have the ability to neck size if necessary. I will never convert brass ever again. Not that I can't or can't do it right. It is best to just use cases specifically stamped and made for the cartridge period. Case capacities, neck thickness and other problems as well when going cheap. You won't be developing any loads with precision with those kind of cases either.
If you have those dies in between, that is a great way to do it. I don't have anything between 308 and 243 to do steps like that, but if I did that is the way I would go.
The 260 probably isnt needed. The 7mm-08 works fine. But the end result is you will likely need to turn the necks for thickness. But desperate times call for desperate measures. LOL
After resizing .308 to .243, seating a bullet, and dropping it perfectly into my .243 case gauge, I noticed that I can't use a bullet hammer puller because the bullet is so tight inside the neck even without a crimp. Will this be dangerous to shoot even though it fits flush in my case gauge.
I use a lee factory crimp die on all my Rifle loads, and they are this tight as well. The tighter crimp on the bullet is better for consistent ignition and pressure. No different than putting a heavy crimp on a round. Where you get into serious danger is if the chamber is pinching the case mouth so that it won't let go of the bullet. Your case gauge is confirming that this won't happen. Does that make sense?
308, 243 have same case/trim length. If it's correct before it is usually correct after, but still check. Trim length is not same as COL. Cartridge Overall Length is once it is loaded and determined by the depth you seat the bullet at. Hope that helps.
Anytime you squeeze one down there is a chance that your neck will be too thick. Depends on the chamber of your Rifle. If it is too tight, trim the neck down.
I have this one problem with my brass that makes me baffled. I have a few .270 win brass that I have already reloaded at least 3 times, and now when I tried to relod it the bullet is freely spinning in the brass and you can easily pulling up and down a little. I have checked the crimping and that seems to be fine. Any one experience this before or know what the problem might be?
Could be slightly undersized bullets. Sometimes as you fire cheaper brass it will stretch, causing it to thin out. That in turn gives just enough loss in neck wall thickness that you get loose bullets. Those are my two guesses.
Have you annealed between firings? 270 has a longer neck then 06 and it tends to get real hard after a few firings. Try to resize it then anneal it then neck size it again.
You can go cheap, but it usually won't give you a good foundation to reload real accurate ammo. You failed to let people know your neck thickness got thicker when you resized. Sometimes downsizing can make the necks too thick. Sometimes you need to neck turn. Been there and done that. I regret ever modifying anything I did in the past. Even though the cases are still reloadable. I don't reload anything anymore unless the headstamp matches. I have done 25-06 and 270 out of 30-06 and I have done 7mm-08 out of 308 but there is nothing any better than using good cases head stamped correctly. BTW you need good lube in that resizing but to say you need lube that is as thick as molasses is dead wrong. A good spray lube is as good as any. You won't get tight groups shooting mediocre brass.
I see my belly and your belly. I take it that you are not lazy, like me, you will do things, regardless of time, effort, and cost. This is what separates the men from the boys.
Great info, but What can I use for 270 WSM? I had a guy Josef Jennings scam me out of $95.75 for 100 270 WSM casings thru Venmo and I've been looking for a Year to find some brass to load. Anyone have any suggestions??? Thank you!!!
@@connorhart7597 You have to shorten a 223 or 5.56 , you just neck up a 221 . I am sure people use the 223 because there are way more of that available !
You do not have a 270win after necking down 30-06 that is misinformation and people who do that are burning the throat out of their 270win barrel quicker that is totally stupid to do. They are not the same case. 30-06sprg has a case length of 2.490" and 270win is 2.540" the 270 win neck is 0.050" longer so dont be stupid. Not like 270win brass is hard to find. Trust me i know i build rifles for people for a living and i see casual people make that dumb mistake often because they never realized 30-06sprg and 270win are not the same case
I can see you've not yet cleaned your brass but I'm still curious if you've noticed any inconsistent rounds on account of clumpy unburnt powder? You got a lot of lube inside that case & could effect your powder if not entirely cleaned out?
Sorry, didn't get a notification for this comment and just saw it...... I clean my brass very thoroughly after this process to remove lube, residue, etc. I also don't do this much unless I can't find the brass or the other brass is significantly cheaper. Thanks
If you anneal the brass first it makes the process a lot easier!!! Just my two cents!!
I agree 👍
The only problem is that you will collapse the shoulder. I form 308 into 6.5 Creedmoor, I tried annealing and and went from a 2% reject to a 35% reject rate. The neck would collapse into the body at the rear of the shoulder of the case. Want to make it easier, do your forming with a RCBS Rock Chucker and bolt it down into a bench that doesn't flex.
Your right sometimes It's no help! @@hardball107
Make sure you turn the necks down after reforming 308 to 243. The neck brass thickness will be to thick. Just done 40 case . the average neck thickness was 0.018 to 0.020" thick. Turned them down to 0.013". Also make the reformed brass will chamber in your rifle. , and anneal the brass before reloading. Just couple of suggestions.
I agree with all of those.
I would add to make sure you didn't gain any length, but I always check length before loading.
Do u need a neck turning tool or is there a budget method to turn necks
I've reformed hundreds and never had to do any of these things.
@@CircleBrewery a drill and file is the most redneck way. I bought a RCBS case neck trimmer.
@@twintwo1429 It depends on the length of case conversion. I do .308 to 300 Savage. In my Savage 99s I have to remove thickness, or they won't chamber.
I form 308 into 6.5 Creedmoor. I use a RCBS Rock Chucker and have it bolted into a substantial bench that doesn't flex. For lube I use ISO-Heet fuel line antifreeze mixed (100% isopropyl alcohol) with 1oz of liquid lanolin. Try it, it's amazing, just spray it on in a ziploc bag and go. I also lube the inside of the neck at it's base with a Q Tip with die sizing wax on it so when the case is formed and the expander ball is forming the case neck ID there is some lube there to let the ball slip along and expand the neck to it's final size smoothly. I have literally done thousands of cases this way and it's a one stroke, relatively easy operation.
Cant beat those lee loader no telling how many times iv pulled the handle .great info video
Great video- I use a .243 Redding trim die as an intermediate step.
Nice video and I believe 260 rem uses the parent case
Thank you, the .303 it begin to be rare on the market and expensive , so that's wy I was looking to find an other brass to be able to realod it , Fernand
I'm thinking of doing this for my 257 weatherby, out of 7mm magnum brass of course. I'm having a hell of a time locating brass (new or used). The cheapest loaded pack of 20 at cabelas is still $89 canadian and I'm not paying that. There is a slight difference in the rounds but I think if I load them light and fire form them I'll be alright.
A lot of wildcats are made that way. The trick is enough pressure to fireform but not so much as to be dangerous. Good luck
One key, neck turn at 30 caliber, then neck down, HUGE benefits of retarding the formation of doughnuts at the shoulder neck junction.
Paul Bike makes one heck of a set of form dies with 30* shoulder angle. I make 6 XC from Lapua 308 Palma cases, PMC, Lake City, Hertenberger, all shoot tiny, tiny groups at 300 yards for hunting.
Lee sizing wax, White, comes in a tooth paste tube, is perhaps the best of all the lubes that I have tried on case forming, and works like a champ in lubing the inside of the case mouth when neck turning. I neck turn with a drill press that goes down to ~250 rpm, and a variable speed 1/2" drill that is held in a bench vise, quick and easy.
I was thinking about doing something similar to FK BRNO did with their new 7.5 FK. I wan't to neck down a 10mm magnum case to 7.8mm and place a custom barrel into a Glock 20. I'm probably going to need to cut the magnum case a bit to fit in the magazines. I don't want to use straight 10mm auto because I want the overall length of the cartridge to be the same but I'm afraid necking a 10mm auto will shorten it quite a bit. It's a project, but a ways off
Thanks for the info. I am wanting to reform .270 Win to 25-06. In theory it should be easy -- although I will need to trim the brass about .050"
As others have said, neck thickness may also need adjusting. Otherwise, if you are careful and use lube, it is pretty simple. Good luck.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 Yes -- tweaking is half the fun.
270 neck is longer than 3006 to prevent clambering in 06.
@@greybone777270 neck is longer because it's based off the 30-03 case, rather than the 30-06.
Thank you, Ido have a question for my 303 british, what is the parent case for a 303 british ?? Thank you
As far as I can tell from my reading, 303 British is the parent (it was not derived from another cartridge). Since it was developed at the turn of the century and right when smokeless powder was taking off - most cartridges from that era are their own parent (since there were so many new smokeless powder cartridges. Hope that helps.
Thanks I am going to try 270 to 6.5-06
270 is not 30-06 brass. It is longer then 06, it is actually based from the 30-03 brass. The 3p-06 case is also derived from the 30-03 case
Yeah u just trim it like 10 thousandths
Doing this would you still need use large rifle primers using this process
Primer doesn't change. So if you resize something that takes large rifle primers, you would still have to use large rifle primers.
Being really cheap, can be confused with being industrious or " not lazy". I like people that are not lazy.
I would do the same thinking he doing because I don't reload once fire brass would u say I am lazy of just carefull with brass that been once fire form
Tried this years a go. After resizing, put the case in my 243 win, but the bolt wouldn't close. Years later, trying to reform 6.5 mauser, too 257 Roberts, the same result .
Depends on how tight your chamber is. Sometimes you have to turn down the neck because it is too thick to chamber.
What is the “a lock” you are referring to in lubricating brass?
Liquid Alox, a bullet lube from Lee precision.
I would switch to Redding Imperial sizing wax, then...
Size in this order:
7-08 seat die w/internals removed
7-08 FL die, sans expander rod
260 Rem seat die
260 FL die
243 seat die
243 FL die w/expander rod.
If you do a lot of this, it would behoove you to purchase above dies even if you don't have those guns. Who knows, you might have those guns someday. Thanks for sharing!
If I had to create these on a regular basis, I would definitely go this route.
Also could you do this process .30-06 springfield brass to make .308 win since .30-06 springfield is rhe parent case
30-06 is not the parent case for 308. 308 is based off of 30-06, but not the parent case. Parent cases are original rass that manufacturers can reshape/resize before it's headstamped to make a different cartridge.
Example- 270 win has a parent case of 30-06, so they make a bunch of 30-06 brass and before final finishing pull some out reshape/resize to 270 win. Cartridges are the same length and similar angles.
@murphyfirearmstraining3630 so you telling me The .308 Winchester has multiple parent cases, including the .30-06 Springfield, the .300 Savage, and the 7.62×51mm NATO: are not a parent case
@murphyfirearmstraining3630 and I quote "The .308 Winchester is one of those calibres that has been around for ages and is definitely here to stay, much like its parent cartridge the .30-06. " end quote
@@AndrewMurphy8383
So there is different terminology floating around on the internet and even in books. They are referring to the fact that the 308 cartridge is based on the 30-06.
What I am referring to is when a cartridge company starts with a cartridge and resizes/expands/blows out that cartridge to create another.
Examples include 30-06 brass is sized down to create 270 and 25-06 brass.
308 is resized to create 7mm-08 and 243.
458 win mag is created by blowing out and trimming 375h&h mag.
In all these cases the head diameter, rim, and length are pretty much the same. They take the brass from one cartridge before it's completed and can change it to a different cartridge.
I don't know if that answers your question, but I think folks use a lot of different terminology. Hopefully that clarifies what I mean by a parent case.
Anneal the brass first, and try Imperial Sizing Wax. Honestly, it's better than anything you can make and it's not horribly expensive.
I will look up the sizing wax. Never seen it or heard of it, but glad to give it a try.
Lithium complex moly grease. Never reloaded but it has extreme pressure friction additives
Hi I was wondering if you know how to make a cartridge from scratch. I haven't seen any videos on how to do this
To truly make one "from scratch" would require a lot of machinery for multiple forming stations (like what starline brass has). Where you are turning a sheet of brass into a case.
Now - there are some cartridges that you can start with the parent case and fire form, size up, size down, etc. This video is an example of that.
You could take 375 H&H and fire form it to get 458 Lott, or fire form it and trim it to get 458 win mag as an example. To do that, you have to create bullets that are 375 diameter at the bottom and 458 diameter at the top and fire them in the rifle to fire form them.
Depends on your equipment and how much you want to invest in it. But to actually go totally from scratch would be a VERY EXPENSIVE proposition.
Let me know if all that makes sense and if it answers your question.
Nice video! Let me ask you, I just got a 300 PRC and even though I have looked for over a month, I can’t find brass for it anywhere. I was thinking of buying some .375 Ruger (as it’s supposed to be the parent case) and trying trim it down and then neck it down to 30 caliber. My question is squeezing down a .375 caliber to .30 caliber seems to be a decent size jump. Is this not going to push or force a lot of brass into the neck of the case? If not where does it go? Just trying to figure out if this might be an option for me. Your thoughts would be highly appreciated! Thanks so much
You are absolutely correct. Going 308 to 243 is a tough go on the brass and really about the biggest step you could make. Really should do that in two steps. Definitely want a lot of lube.
If there's a way to go from 375 to like 338 then down to 30, that would be the ticket.
I would also anneal the brass in the oven after that much sizing. But it could definitely work.
Yes, it will cause the neck to thicken. Can turn the neck to thin it out if this is the case. Do you have PRC brass to measure off of, that would be the best way to get the newly sized brass to match.
Believe me you are better back ordering the brass and getting it when it's available. If one necks down too much you even need to consider turning the necks. If you change the brass later, you will be upset that you did nayway with the mismarked headstamps. I have done this stuff in the past and even though the brass shot OK at the time I regretted it later. I had a similar problem with getting the 6.5 PRC brass as you are with the 300 PRC, I just waited for the brass to be available and am glad I did. Brass is getting more available now. BTW some brass does not convert well. I did some 300 Black Out out of 223 brass and some manufacturers case thickness made them have ejection problems. You can have real problems with the neck thickness downsizing necks on brass. One should only do that if they are aware of that and have the ability to neck size if necessary. I will never convert brass ever again. Not that I can't or can't do it right. It is best to just use cases specifically stamped and made for the cartridge period. Case capacities, neck thickness and other problems as well when going cheap. You won't be developing any loads with precision with those kind of cases either.
@@garrytalley8009 Thanks so much for the advice. Cheers:)!
You should have bought a 300 Win mag with a fast twist ( Browning makes them ) then you could get all the brass you want !……
@@thomasdaum1927 no I should not have. Got a big box of 500 brand new Laupua brass a week or so later after post. Couldn’t be happier
I just did the same. I went to 7mm-08 dies and 260rem dies on the way to 243. No worse than resizing.
If you have those dies in between, that is a great way to do it. I don't have anything between 308 and 243 to do steps like that, but if I did that is the way I would go.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 Its tough going from 308 to 243....a cheap lee die in 7mm-08 or 260 would be a good buy if you plan on doing a bunch.
The 260 probably isnt needed. The 7mm-08 works fine. But the end result is you will likely need to turn the necks for thickness. But desperate times call for desperate measures. LOL
After resizing .308 to .243, seating a bullet, and dropping it perfectly into my .243 case gauge, I noticed that I can't use a bullet hammer puller because the bullet is so tight inside the neck even without a crimp. Will this be dangerous to shoot even though it fits flush in my case gauge.
I use a lee factory crimp die on all my Rifle loads, and they are this tight as well. The tighter crimp on the bullet is better for consistent ignition and pressure. No different than putting a heavy crimp on a round.
Where you get into serious danger is if the chamber is pinching the case mouth so that it won't let go of the bullet. Your case gauge is confirming that this won't happen. Does that make sense?
After you have necked down the casing, Do you have the correct OAL of the cartridge?
308, 243 have same case/trim length. If it's correct before it is usually correct after, but still check. Trim length is not same as COL. Cartridge Overall Length is once it is loaded and determined by the depth you seat the bullet at. Hope that helps.
What about resizing to 260 rem? No issue with neck being too thick?
Anytime you squeeze one down there is a chance that your neck will be too thick. Depends on the chamber of your Rifle. If it is too tight, trim the neck down.
Would it work, or be easier to run it through a 7-08 sizing die and then the 243 die
It would work and be easier. If you have both sets of dies it would be a great intermediate step.
I have this one problem with my brass that makes me baffled. I have a few .270 win brass that I have already reloaded at least 3 times, and now when I tried to relod it the bullet is freely spinning in the brass and you can easily pulling up and down a little. I have checked the crimping and that seems to be fine. Any one experience this before or know what the problem might be?
Could be slightly undersized bullets. Sometimes as you fire cheaper brass it will stretch, causing it to thin out. That in turn gives just enough loss in neck wall thickness that you get loose bullets. Those are my two guesses.
Have you annealed between firings? 270 has a longer neck then 06 and it tends to get real hard after a few firings. Try to resize it then anneal it then neck size it again.
You can go cheap, but it usually won't give you a good foundation to reload real accurate ammo. You failed to let people know your neck thickness got thicker when you resized. Sometimes downsizing can make the necks too thick. Sometimes you need to neck turn. Been there and done that. I regret ever modifying anything I did in the past. Even though the cases are still reloadable. I don't reload anything anymore unless the headstamp matches. I have done 25-06 and 270 out of 30-06 and I have done 7mm-08 out of 308 but there is nothing any better than using good cases head stamped correctly. BTW you need good lube in that resizing but to say you need lube that is as thick as molasses is dead wrong. A good spray lube is as good as any. You won't get tight groups shooting mediocre brass.
I can't disagree with anything you say here. I think this should be an absolute last resort. You make some great points.
I see my belly and your belly. I take it that you are not lazy, like me, you will do things, regardless of time, effort, and cost. This is what separates the men from the boys.
Last reforming I did was 30/30 into .225 Winchester. You are lucky with your 243. Pretty straight forward. .225, not so fun.
Getting my feet wet in this process here in a few weeks. Just picked up a 219 Zipper AI and waiting on dies.
lathe work?
Great info, but What can I use for 270 WSM? I had a guy Josef Jennings scam me out of $95.75 for 100 270 WSM casings thru Venmo and I've been looking for a Year to find some brass to load. Anyone have any suggestions??? Thank you!!!
Parent case for that is the 300 wsm. If you can find 300 wsm, you can neck it down to 270 wsm.
Gonna do 25-20 to 218 Bee
FYI , maybe a towel in your lap to wipe off any thing on your hands instead of on the chair ! Yep best to anneal first
I've changed 308 to 243 alot it's not that hard I always do it in 1 process, I use Unique case lube way less messy. Fix your Bench it's way Floppy
Anneal your brass first
Use case lube. It works much easier.
No the 300 BLK is from a 221 fireball cartridge !….
Even if that's what it's supposed to be, the vast majority of loaders use 223/5.56
@@connorhart7597 You have to shorten a 223 or 5.56 , you just neck up a 221 . I am sure people use the 223 because there are way more of that available !
Get an Annealeez.
You do not have a 270win after necking down 30-06 that is misinformation and people who do that are burning the throat out of their 270win barrel quicker that is totally stupid to do. They are not the same case. 30-06sprg has a case length of 2.490" and 270win is 2.540" the 270 win neck is 0.050" longer so dont be stupid. Not like 270win brass is hard to find. Trust me i know i build rifles for people for a living and i see casual people make that dumb mistake often because they never realized 30-06sprg and 270win are not the same case
Or you’re really cheap and desperate. 😂
Wife says I’m cheap, but flashy, whatever that means! 😂
I’m a lanolin lube guy. 🤷🏻
Truth
You need a rock chucker buddy. That poor little Lee press is gonna break.
I would put that press up against anything a competitor makes. I won't say it's the strongest, but it will take anything I will ever throw at it.
Grow up
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 Yep. If you break your press reforming brass its because your a moron. Nothing to do with your press.
@@GoldCountryTrapping How does using a press to reform brass make me a moron?
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 No I was replying to Colorado who was commenting that you were going to break your press becasue its a lee. LOL
I am sorry but this is hard to watch !……. If you have been hand loading for almost 50 years like me and doing 6 wildcats you know what I mean !……..
I can see you've not yet cleaned your brass but I'm still curious if you've noticed any inconsistent rounds on account of clumpy unburnt powder? You got a lot of lube inside that case & could effect your powder if not entirely cleaned out?
Sorry, didn't get a notification for this comment and just saw it......
I clean my brass very thoroughly after this process to remove lube, residue, etc. I also don't do this much unless I can't find the brass or the other brass is significantly cheaper. Thanks