You and me both! And thanks for your support as a channel member, TrickyZ33! When are we going to see you in the members-only Discord server? Let me know if you're having trouble connecting, and I'll send you a direct invitation link.
I've started looking at powder coating for the past wee while. It gives great coverage, not too difficult to do, and gives a super finish, really durable. Only downside, you need a decent oven to bake the parts in.
@@overtimearcade if the parts are small enough you can do it in a toaster oven. I don't remember the size of coin doors as I am just starting to get interested in this hobby (again), but I got a toaster oven at goodwill that can hold a 12 inch pizza. The Harbor freight kit is "good enough" and you can get hammer finishes as well that actually turn out black. I had a buddy wanting to do larger parts, we scooped up what had to be a 1960's wall oven for 10 bucks at habitat for humanity works a treat and can be wired for multiple voltages.
@@osgeldSeen quite a few hobbyists using larger toaster ovens. Just make sure you calibrate it first with a temperature probe, or similar, and check the time it takes to get up to temperature. Also what happens, how much heat is lost, when you open the door to put the parts in.
Love the video! If you want to quadruple views, remember that the UA-cam algorithm wants you haul the cabinet off site so you can do a "Stripped BARE with Nothing to Hide... in an abandoned mall parking lot" video series. Gotta give the algorithm what it wants... :) Thanks!
@@overtimearcade Wow. Almost 10k views on the DK video. I went over to give it an extra like to appease the algorithm. I had the port on the TI-94/4A which had the cement factory on it. Does DK Jr. have a level that was left out of many ports? You could probably do a short on DK3 and call it a "Lost secret" and get some traction :)
Actually, strike that -- I was totally wrong! "Mario's Hideout" does indeed appear in the NES port of Donkey Kong Junior! So forget that idea... maybe I can do one instead about Mario being the **bad guy** in this game??
Awesome work. I picked up a PMMS-UR # 0176. It was severally abused and will require some bondo. Someone ripped out CGA, game board, most of the coin door components..It needs work! Are you going produce a part 9? Thanks.@@overtimearcade
Got me scared now. TOG has my money on a ms pac set as well. Plus a couple pieces like marquess and cpo. Plus I’m third in line for some Burgertime stencils.
Every time I watch your channel, I get on Facebook and look for Arcade games. I don't know why.... anyway, this time might have helped pay off for you... "owners of Arcadia, Pinball Paradise, and The Route 66 Arcade Museum are having an online auction... To start selling off some of their massive collection of excessive arcade machines and parts." At, American Pride Amusements... I thought you might be interested. 😉
I'm leaving this comment here for the future. If you are going though the immense effort of re-stenciling a cabinet you should replace the bottom of the cabinet remove the CDX that's screwed on the bottom and replace the bottom 6 inches of plywood that's damaged. It's simple to do with a biscuit jointer. If you find spray painting a coin door stressful wait until you are stenciling. I know, I re-stenciled a Pac-Man. Don't skip actually fixing the cabinet. I'm not anti bondo but that cabinet isn't even sitting straight and it's ½ taller with the CDX on the bottom. Don't put it next to another Midway cabinet it's going to look weird .
IMO that’s going overboard. The bottom 6” of the cabinet really isn’t bad. It wasn’t sitting in water or anything - it’s just some minor superficial surface-level damage. I still need to replace/adjust the leg levelers which should address any height, etc. issues. Don’t hate me, Tighe! 😅
@@overtimearcade oh and I don't hate you, I'm looking out for you. I know how much work stenciling is and how easy swapping some plywood is. Take off that board on the bottom.
Too late, it’s been bondo-ed over and there’s two dozen screws (not from me) holding it in place. It ain’t going anywhere. It’ll be ok - this is just for my home arcade, not a museum or anything! I LOVE YOU, TIGHE!
Dude I like your videos, and I don't like criticizing peoples work, but you need to work much faster with bondo. Just put it on and sand it off. Don't try to get it so thin and perfect. Just get it close with a flash, let it dry, and sand. Faster is key with bondo, MUCH faster.
HUGE LABOR DAY MERCH SALE! Enjoy 20% off 2+ items in the official Overtime Arcade Merchandise Shop until 11:59pm EST on 9/4/23!
Fear not, another is coming soon!
WHATEVER DO YOU MEAN
Check your math - I make almost ONE HUNDRED CENTS PER HOUR in UA-cam advertising revenue!
Check your math - I make almost ONE HUNDRED CENTS PER HOUR in UA-cam advertising revenue!
His name isn’t Joe. You know that, right?
Ms. Pac-Man deserves the best!
Thanks! We’ll treat her like a lady!
Thanks for doing these awesome videos!
Thanks for all of your support, Shawn -- you rock! 🎸
Really looking forward to this TOTAL resto of your Ms. Pac Man cabinet. The classic stencil pattern designs are some of my favorite cabinets!
You and me both! And thanks for your support as a channel member, TrickyZ33! When are we going to see you in the members-only Discord server? Let me know if you're having trouble connecting, and I'll send you a direct invitation link.
I've started looking at powder coating for the past wee while. It gives great coverage, not too difficult to do, and gives a super finish, really durable. Only downside, you need a decent oven to bake the parts in.
I doubt my wife would be happy if I tried baking it in the kitchen!
@@overtimearcade if the parts are small enough you can do it in a toaster oven. I don't remember the size of coin doors as I am just starting to get interested in this hobby (again), but I got a toaster oven at goodwill that can hold a 12 inch pizza. The Harbor freight kit is "good enough" and you can get hammer finishes as well that actually turn out black.
I had a buddy wanting to do larger parts, we scooped up what had to be a 1960's wall oven for 10 bucks at habitat for humanity works a treat and can be wired for multiple voltages.
Oh nice!
@@osgeldSeen quite a few hobbyists using larger toaster ovens. Just make sure you calibrate it first with a temperature probe, or similar, and check the time it takes to get up to temperature.
Also what happens, how much heat is lost, when you open the door to put the parts in.
44:40 I had that same problem with my black hammered a few years ago on my jukebox.
That it comes out kinda gray?
@@overtimearcade yeah, I’m not sure why though unless it’s the hammered part of it. 🤷♂️
It’s clearly a scam by Rustoleum to get people to buy additional cans of paint!!!
Looking great! man that was a lot of work! good to see the Ms Pac-Man being worked on again :)
Thanks! She’s worth it! 😅
Love the video! If you want to quadruple views, remember that the UA-cam algorithm wants you haul the cabinet off site so you can do a "Stripped BARE with Nothing to Hide... in an abandoned mall parking lot" video series. Gotta give the algorithm what it wants... :) Thanks!
Thanks -- and no kidding! I also need to do a follow-up short entitled "Donkey Kong JUNIOR: the lost level?" 😂
@@overtimearcade Wow. Almost 10k views on the DK video. I went over to give it an extra like to appease the algorithm. I had the port on the TI-94/4A which had the cement factory on it. Does DK Jr. have a level that was left out of many ports? You could probably do a short on DK3 and call it a "Lost secret" and get some traction :)
Yes! The level called “Mario’s Hideout” is missing from most home ports of DKJr, although it does appear in the Coleco Adam port.
Actually, strike that -- I was totally wrong! "Mario's Hideout" does indeed appear in the NES port of Donkey Kong Junior! So forget that idea... maybe I can do one instead about Mario being the **bad guy** in this game??
Great video, man! You make it fun to watch.
Thanks for the kinds words, brother, and I appreciate your support!!
Forgot to say about the mix with harderner it to spred it out takes longer to harden. A big blob goes faster gets hotter
Oh interesting, that's a good tip!
Removing the side art with a sander. Is that original side art painted, or vinyl?
Most Ms. Pac-Man cabinets had painted stencil side art. A few late-run Ms Pacs had vinyl side art. Mine was stenciled.
Awesome work. I picked up a PMMS-UR # 0176. It was severally abused and will require some bondo. Someone ripped out CGA, game board, most of the coin door components..It needs work! Are you going produce a part 9? Thanks.@@overtimearcade
Thanks! I’ll be painting the cabinet in the spring when it warms up outside again!
Saw Street Smart in the background and pressed SUBSCRIBE. 👍🏾💯
YOU KNOW IT!
Got me scared now. TOG has my money on a ms pac set as well. Plus a couple pieces like marquess and cpo. Plus I’m third in line for some Burgertime stencils.
Patience generally pays off. I’ve always been happy with the quality and price of the artwork I’ve received from TOG.
the cab is from Midway???
Yes, an original Bally-Midway Ms. Pac-Man cabinet, serial no. 925!
sally struthers would be proud!......oh edith!
For my next commercial, I was thinking of doing a parody of her International Correspondence School infomercials!
Every time I watch your channel, I get on Facebook and look for Arcade games. I don't know why.... anyway, this time might have helped pay off for you... "owners of Arcadia, Pinball Paradise, and The Route 66 Arcade Museum are having an online auction... To start selling off some of their massive collection of excessive arcade machines and parts." At, American Pride Amusements... I thought you might be interested. 😉
Thanks! Yeah, that’s Vectorman from the KLOV forums! Lots of cool stuff up for auction, but too far for me to make the trip!
I heard that you should wipe the mix. If you put in air in the mix it harden faster. When you use filler :) but i am No expert :) love your channel
That's what everyone tells me -- fold, don't stir!
I'm leaving this comment here for the future. If you are going though the immense effort of re-stenciling a cabinet you should replace the bottom of the cabinet remove the CDX that's screwed on the bottom and replace the bottom 6 inches of plywood that's damaged. It's simple to do with a biscuit jointer. If you find spray painting a coin door stressful wait until you are stenciling. I know, I re-stenciled a Pac-Man. Don't skip actually fixing the cabinet. I'm not anti bondo but that cabinet isn't even sitting straight and it's ½ taller with the CDX on the bottom. Don't put it next to another Midway cabinet it's going to look weird .
IMO that’s going overboard. The bottom 6” of the cabinet really isn’t bad. It wasn’t sitting in water or anything - it’s just some minor superficial surface-level damage. I still need to replace/adjust the leg levelers which should address any height, etc. issues. Don’t hate me, Tighe! 😅
@@overtimearcade minimally remove that CDX from the bottom
@@overtimearcade oh and I don't hate you, I'm looking out for you. I know how much work stenciling is and how easy swapping some plywood is. Take off that board on the bottom.
Too late, it’s been bondo-ed over and there’s two dozen screws (not from me) holding it in place. It ain’t going anywhere. It’ll be ok - this is just for my home arcade, not a museum or anything! I LOVE YOU, TIGHE!
@@overtimearcade I really hope you aren't thinking that I'm being judgemental, I just want what's best for you
why not use wood filler? no mixing, longer work time, made for wood ... dunno about price difference though
Great question! Bondo is stronger and dries more quickly.
@@overtimearcade seems that the drying was causing you a bit of an issue though
Ha, you’ve got me there! Wood filler usually takes hours to dry though.
Wood filler will crack and pull away. Bondo won’t.
I guess you never finished the Ms Pac-Man restoration project? 😢
It's... complicated. I think I've finally sorted out the stencil painting situation though...
Dude I like your videos, and I don't like criticizing peoples work, but you need to work much faster with bondo. Just put it on and sand it off. Don't try to get it so thin and perfect. Just get it close with a flash, let it dry, and sand. Faster is key with bondo, MUCH faster.
I’m getting better with more practice! LOL
We good no clean shine the time you new game.
Uhh, thanks? 🤷♂️
❤