Haven’t bowled in over a year but when I was bowling I could not find anyone explaining this info so I’m sacrificing my UA-cam algorithm to support the boys. Thanks for making this video
For those who will ask. 2LS and VLS are almost exactly the same... EXCEPT reverse the effects of the Pin Buffer and Pin to Center of Grip distances. A short pin buffer is strong in VLS, but short COG is weak in 2ls... and long pin buffer is weak in VLS, and long COG strong in 2LS. All the other numbers remain the same in the 2 systems.
Easily the best bowling information channel on youtube. Can you do a video breaking down finger and thumb pitches for 1 and 2 handed bowlers? I'd love to know Via's pitches!
Damn yall always seem to release an explanation video the day after i ask the same exact question to my PSO. Absolutely incredible timing keep it up guys!
I recall back when Mo Pinel said the PSA placement determines (during axis migration) when the ball "revs up." In short: closer to the thumb the LATER the ball revs up. PSA closer to the PAP the EARLIER the ball "revs up." "Rev up" in reference to entering the real roll-phase. This video is great.
I was throwing my Cruise Control (overseas ball). I have a 3¾X4X5¾ 2LS layout, and I actually I like it, and has a bigger backend reaction with the 3000 grit surface and the PSA once drilled is strong.
Finally thank you Michael Tang for the explanation. Can you explain about the ball rolling over your finger tips? Or the ring flare is over the finger tip when you bowl the ball?
My experience with some pro shops is they don't now how to do pin buffer or dual angle layouts. Old school, holes look good over here I think lets just drill it like that. Everyone in bowling alley has fingers and thumb in same location. I like your video very interesting good info.
Mike, love the channel. What kind of effect would the different layouts have on the Mass Bias? I've thrown Brunswick all my life but then i got the Attention Star and the Ion Pro. Only Brunswick I throw now is my spare ball. Thanks, keep up the great work.
Awesome video! Simple as it's going to get. Been using dual angle myself. If you could help a bradda out, how would you convert a 45×4×20 into that measurements? Thanks in advance.
It’s not clear for me if we have the same ball(let’s say lightning blackout) and have different layouts (eg 5x4x3, 5x4x4, 4,5 x 4 x 4 , 4,5 x 3 x 4,5, etc.) what will be the differences in ball motion and strength in a same oil pattern
hey mike when i got back into bowling after taking ten years off i went to my PSO and knowing nothing at the time he gave me a “standard” layout. As time went on and i wanted to better my game i asked for us to find my PAP and start using different layouts for different situations to where i got the answer “you dont need it and i wont do it for casual league bowlers”. my question is, would you recommend i learn pin buffering on my own and start drilling my own gear or should i come down and visit you guys for some aid?
I know you are a storm guy but for legendary purposes, I always loved the gas mask core with a 1 inch buffer to stabilize the core quicker. Better hit power and more recovery when missing out.
I throw a straight, slow ball [14.8mph] and i leave alot of ten pins. House shot is very dry. This help me understand i need a higher pin buffer to help take out 10 pins. 2 weeks ago i left 12 in one night. So i will update once i get a new ball drilled up using these practices
lets say i have the VEBO. it perform nicely out of the box but i didnt get it polished as my alley doesnt have a pro shop so its sitting on like 50games lane shine. (4by4by3) if i currently looking for a ball that hook a little late than my VEBO and i dont polish it as much how should i get around it? would getting another pearl ball and give it more length helps or would it it better if i get a dull ball and hand sand it it to 4k be easier and drill it weaker?
My pro shop told me the pap will determine my pin placement. Do you think that means they just use the standard dimensions for pin buffer ect..? I got a little confused when they told me that since many bowlers have pin down and pin up balls.
How come no one has coded a site that has diff layouts and ways to input numbers? Maybe it can preview a ball with PAP options too? Bowling is so behind in some areas...
I have a weird throw, I track directly in between my fingers and sometimes clip my thumb, if I try to add tilt to my throw, I track on the wrong side of the ball (my PAP points at the lane), is there a way to drill it to get my ball to track properly? when I throw a backup ball my ball flares as expected. when I throw regularly my flare lines are squished together even though my PAP has been measured and my balls drilled accordingly.
Hey MT i am a higher rev player about 16 to 18 mph I struggle with asym balls. I've tried pin up an down, what layout numbers wise would you recommend. My strongest ball in the bag right now is a summit that is 4x4x2. Pap is 5 3/8 an i think an 1/8 up might be off on that
For a standard house pattern bowler, is it better to use the same layout on different ball types so that the difference of the different ball specs are more apparent?
So when the ball kind of wiggles/wobbles during the hook phase what’s that mean? Or what’s the move if just thinking layouts? Shorter pin buffer (pin above fingers) or longer?
Greetings, I wanted to know how to get the two numbers that are from the center line of the perforation and the positive axis point. I have heard that they put 5 inches to the right and 1 inch up, but that must be a base or universal positive axis point, but I wanted to know if I have to use the armadillo to know my positive axis point?
The armadillo is the easiest way to get a PAP. You can get one by putting a tape where you might think your PAP and throw some shots til you get the tape exactly on that point at the time of release
So my question is, even by understanding the way the layout of the ball controls the core actions throughout the shot, making it stand up fast or slower. Dose the surface being strong and dull or strong and shining, or weak and dull or weak and shining effect the overall effect of the layout? And by layout can you play more to the balls natural strength, weaker and flipping harder with shine and strong and more rounded with dull?
Just curious, what caused the birth of the 2LS system? Because 2-handers are much more under the ball during the release? What would a 2-hander experience differently if a ball was drilled with a VLS layout system instead?
The removal of the weight hole caused 2LS to be made. It’s a more usable layout system to control how the holes effect the core while still controlling pin to pap and PSA to pap
I swear i need you to go into my kocal pro shop with me because i go in and say i need this ball to hook as much as my game/hand can get i receive the exact same layout as one they drilled before from my card in their files. Mind you, i like that they dont need to measure my span every time or look for my insert fits but idk why a pitch black (15 Lbs) would be drilled exactly as a Gem (15 Lbs). I buy different types of balls to fill gaps in my arsenal but feel like they are drilled the same. I don't have major rev or speed so why would they be drilled the same? Also i should add that this proshop is in a house where i bowl league 2 nights per week plus do tournaments so each guy in there drilling knows my game well since we've bowled with or against each other for 20 plus years. Is this typical or just lazy? Or am i not explaining what i need from a new ball correctly?
could anyone help me out im a two hander and i honestly copy my drilling from other two hander players is there like a standard layout i can go with im about to drill a pitch black and a ufo alert if anyone could give me a basic run of the mill layout!
@@tvbowlingsupply so around 3 to 3.5 will basically make it go straight and no longer hook correct? While 4 will still help with hook and continuation?
I would like to know how my 45x4x35 layout is described in this system. .. HA! .. I just chatted with ChatGPT on the subject to get an idea. Basically, my 45x4x35 layout would be pretty close to a 4x2x4 layout in the Pin-to-Pap system, or Pin-Buffer system. Roughly anyway. All of my balls are drilled 45x4x35 and it seems to work quite well for me. This is what Radical calls a "versatile" layout, which I seem to prefer, but then again, I pretty much only bowl on our House Shot pattern, occasionally on a sport shot, but not often.
If your intention was to explain this topic in simple terms for average bowlers, you failed miserably. I just started bowling again and I’m actually interested in learning this information, but you lost me within the first quarter of this video. This video might be great for a certain group, like professional bowlers, and pro shop owners, but most of them already know this stuff and from your comments at the beginning of this video, it seemed like you wanted to explain this information to lay people.
@@tvbowlingsupply I should have been more specific about how I think this video could have been changed, so that it would have been more understandable by the average bowler, because I meant my comment to be a fyi, not a criticism, just to complain. Perhaps if you had added some definitions for a few more terms, the video might have been easier for me to keep up with. My intention was not just to complain, because, as I said, I am interested in learning this stuff.
At the risk of sounding very ignorant about this topic, I don’t know if my understanding of what you mean when you say strength or stability of the ball is correct. I will have to look up what the VAL and Diff means and see if that helps me understand more of this video. If I watch this video several times, I will probably begin to understand it better, but my point is that this difficult topic is very hard for the average bowler to grasp, so if your goal is to explain it to people like me, a little more translation into simple terms is probably needed. I appreciate the effort you are making.
@@traveling.down.the.road56 strength simply put for bowling is how soon or late the ball starts to “slow down”. A “stronger” ball will slow down sooner. There isn’t much that is simple about this topic, it’s a lot of geometry and physics. I just wanted to put this video out there bc it’s not something that is in the UA-cam space
Haven’t bowled in over a year but when I was bowling I could not find anyone explaining this info so I’m sacrificing my UA-cam algorithm to support the boys. Thanks for making this video
For those who will ask. 2LS and VLS are almost exactly the same... EXCEPT reverse the effects of the Pin Buffer and Pin to Center of Grip distances. A short pin buffer is strong in VLS, but short COG is weak in 2ls... and long pin buffer is weak in VLS, and long COG strong in 2LS. All the other numbers remain the same in the 2 systems.
Great comment.
Best explanation of pin buffer layout system ever.
Great job. I may have to show it to my high school team so they can see and hear the importance of layouts and how it relates to ball motion.
Easily the best bowling information channel on youtube. Can you do a video breaking down finger and thumb pitches for 1 and 2 handed bowlers? I'd love to know Via's pitches!
Damn yall always seem to release an explanation video the day after i ask the same exact question to my PSO. Absolutely incredible timing keep it up guys!
Do you have a video showing you laying out the ball with your measuring equipment.?
Doing the measuring and drawing the lines on it.??
I recall back when Mo Pinel said the PSA placement determines (during axis migration) when the ball "revs up." In short: closer to the thumb the LATER the ball revs up. PSA closer to the PAP the EARLIER the ball "revs up."
"Rev up" in reference to entering the real roll-phase.
This video is great.
My head hurts now😵💫
Very informative! Thank you, Mike!😊
I really needed this video since im a newb that doesnt understand the technicalities of bowling yet.
This is really well explained and super clear. Thanks!
Excellent explanation Mike !!! .. thank you for describing for us!
I was throwing my Cruise Control (overseas ball). I have a 3¾X4X5¾ 2LS layout, and I actually I like it, and has a bigger backend reaction with the 3000 grit surface and the PSA once drilled is strong.
Totally the best explanation I've seen so far
Finally thank you Michael Tang for the explanation. Can you explain about the ball rolling over your finger tips? Or the ring flare is over the finger tip when you bowl the ball?
I enjoy your videos. Just wondering if you can recommend a ball and layout for a senior with very slow ball speed?
My experience with some pro shops is they don't now how to do pin buffer or dual angle layouts. Old school, holes look good over here I think lets just drill it like that. Everyone in bowling alley has fingers and thumb in same location. I like your video very interesting good info.
Mike, love the channel. What kind of effect would the different layouts have on the Mass Bias? I've thrown Brunswick all my life but then i got the Attention Star and the Ion Pro. Only Brunswick I throw now is my spare ball. Thanks, keep up the great work.
Awesome video! Simple as it's going to get. Been using dual angle myself. If you could help a bradda out, how would you convert a 45×4×20 into that measurements? Thanks in advance.
I would love to see a video with a ball with your ideal layout versus one that is an inch off at all numbers
It’s not clear for me if we have the same ball(let’s say lightning blackout) and have different layouts (eg 5x4x3, 5x4x4, 4,5 x 4 x 4 , 4,5 x 3 x 4,5, etc.) what will be the differences in ball motion and strength in a same oil pattern
Never been this early to the best pro shops vids 🔥
hey mike when i got back into bowling after taking ten years off i went to my PSO and knowing nothing at the time he gave me a “standard” layout. As time went on and i wanted to better my game i asked for us to find my PAP and start using different layouts for different situations to where i got the answer “you dont need it and i wont do it for casual league bowlers”. my question is, would you recommend i learn pin buffering on my own and start drilling my own gear or should i come down and visit you guys for some aid?
I would recommend a different pro shop -- that one is useless
I know you are a storm guy but for legendary purposes, I always loved the gas mask core with a 1 inch buffer to stabilize the core quicker. Better hit power and more recovery when missing out.
I throw a straight, slow ball [14.8mph] and i leave alot of ten pins. House shot is very dry. This help me understand i need a higher pin buffer to help take out 10 pins. 2 weeks ago i left 12 in one night. So i will update once i get a new ball drilled up using these practices
This the video I’ve been looking for
lets say i have the VEBO. it perform nicely out of the box but i didnt get it polished as my alley doesnt have a pro shop so its sitting on like 50games lane shine. (4by4by3)
if i currently looking for a ball that hook a little late than my VEBO and i dont polish it as much how should i get around it? would getting another pearl ball and give it more length helps or would it it better if i get a dull ball and hand sand it it to 4k be easier and drill it weaker?
Really really good info. Tyvm!
My pro shop told me the pap will determine my pin placement. Do you think that means they just use the standard dimensions for pin buffer ect..?
I got a little confused when they told me that since many bowlers have pin down and pin up balls.
Hopefully they use either pin buffer or dual angles!
How come no one has coded a site that has diff layouts and ways to input numbers? Maybe it can preview a ball with PAP options too? Bowling is so behind in some areas...
Type in “storm VLS” in your browser and see if that gives you what you’re looking for!
I have a weird throw, I track directly in between my fingers and sometimes clip my thumb, if I try to add tilt to my throw, I track on the wrong side of the ball (my PAP points at the lane), is there a way to drill it to get my ball to track properly? when I throw a backup ball my ball flares as expected. when I throw regularly my flare lines are squished together even though my PAP has been measured and my balls drilled accordingly.
Hey MT i am a higher rev player about 16 to 18 mph I struggle with asym balls. I've tried pin up an down, what layout numbers wise would you recommend. My strongest ball in the bag right now is a summit that is 4x4x2. Pap is 5 3/8 an i think an 1/8 up might be off on that
For a standard house pattern bowler, is it better to use the same layout on different ball types so that the difference of the different ball specs are more apparent?
So when the ball kind of wiggles/wobbles during the hook phase what’s that mean? Or what’s the move if just thinking layouts? Shorter pin buffer (pin above fingers) or longer?
Way to explain dat Tang, Mikey!🤣
How important is the PAP when setting up the ball? I.E. would a one - or 2-inch variance make a large difference in ball roll.
@@cramfive3205 very important!
Greetings, I wanted to know how to get the two numbers that are from the center line of the perforation and the positive axis point. I have heard that they put 5 inches to the right and 1 inch up, but that must be a base or universal positive axis point, but I wanted to know if I have to use the armadillo to know my positive axis point?
The armadillo is the easiest way to get a PAP. You can get one by putting a tape where you might think your PAP and throw some shots til you get the tape exactly on that point at the time of release
So my question is, even by understanding the way the layout of the ball controls the core actions throughout the shot, making it stand up fast or slower. Dose the surface being strong and dull or strong and shining, or weak and dull or weak and shining effect the overall effect of the layout?
And by layout can you play more to the balls natural strength, weaker and flipping harder with shine and strong and more rounded with dull?
Surface definitely affects the overall reaction. You have to balance and figure out all of the combinations to achieve a reaction you are looking for
Can provide a layout for someone with slow ball speed but heavy Rev.... Having trouble getting the ball to skid through the front
time to re watch every single video on this channel about 1500 times, open up a pro shop and make millions
Can you recommend a long & strong angular layout for me. I am 2handed pap is 5 1/4 over and 3 down. High track by finger holes.
Try something around 5 inches for your PAP and 3-3.5 for your last number. So like a 5 x 5 x 3.5 2LS
Thank you for the information@@tvbowlingsupply
I am 2 handed. All my balls are drilled with a 5x4x4 2ls layout. Is it bad that they are all drilled this way?
Not necessarily. It lets the difference between the balls be the only difference which keeps it simple
Just curious, what caused the birth of the 2LS system? Because 2-handers are much more under the ball during the release? What would a 2-hander experience differently if a ball was drilled with a VLS layout system instead?
The removal of the weight hole caused 2LS to be made. It’s a more usable layout system to control how the holes effect the core while still controlling pin to pap and PSA to pap
Thanks for the fyi . That was a information tsunami . I’m so old that I’m already a little foggy .
Mikey, what is your PAP? Are the lines on these balls based on your own PAP or just an example one?
The example balls are based off of my PAP which is currently 4 1/4 over and 1 1/2 up
@@tvbowlingsupply thanks!
Great talk. TMI for me.
How about longer, stronger or control?
I do my own layouts but i use Dual Angle.
I can do both just like Dual Angle better . I'm an old guy.😅
I swear i need you to go into my kocal pro shop with me because i go in and say i need this ball to hook as much as my game/hand can get i receive the exact same layout as one they drilled before from my card in their files. Mind you, i like that they dont need to measure my span every time or look for my insert fits but idk why a pitch black (15 Lbs) would be drilled exactly as a Gem (15 Lbs). I buy different types of balls to fill gaps in my arsenal but feel like they are drilled the same. I don't have major rev or speed so why would they be drilled the same? Also i should add that this proshop is in a house where i bowl league 2 nights per week plus do tournaments so each guy in there drilling knows my game well since we've bowled with or against each other for 20 plus years. Is this typical or just lazy? Or am i not explaining what i need from a new ball correctly?
Im still highly confused
What if you have a ball with a strong core and strong cover? What if you have a weak cover and a strong core?
could anyone help me out im a two hander and i honestly copy my drilling from other two hander players is there like a standard layout i can go with im about to drill a pitch black and a ufo alert if anyone could give me a basic run of the mill layout!
You should have your PSO get your PAP.
2:01 for a moment I thought Mikey gonna do pull a Spice Girls on the viewers 😅
Great video!
Thanks Michael great video
What do you mean by being stable?
Stable means the ball reaches its preferred spin axis and is no longer being affected by the core. Therefore, it rolls straight.
Imagine rolling a water bottle on the ground. That would be considered stable. Imagine the cap of the bottle is the pin on a ball
@@tvbowlingsupply so around 3 to 3.5 will basically make it go straight and no longer hook correct? While 4 will still help with hook and continuation?
Love it i need u to drill me a ball
ball on the left ....the weight block shifted way over...... Ball should be a defect
I would like to know how my 45x4x35 layout is described in this system. .. HA! .. I just chatted with ChatGPT on the subject to get an idea. Basically, my 45x4x35 layout would be pretty close to a 4x2x4 layout in the Pin-to-Pap system, or Pin-Buffer system. Roughly anyway. All of my balls are drilled 45x4x35 and it seems to work quite well for me. This is what Radical calls a "versatile" layout, which I seem to prefer, but then again, I pretty much only bowl on our House Shot pattern, occasionally on a sport shot, but not often.
✍🏻
That didn’t help me 😂🤪
I feel stoopider now.
first, do i get a free road now?
Awwww man, i wanted to see his face. :(
Ballsplanations video!!! 🎉
Hope my sub helps you get to that 40,000 mark. You are well deserving!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Huh?
I’ve noticed that new bowlers are more interested in layouts than they are in improving their game.
After all this, I lost interest to bowl.
😂
If your intention was to explain this topic in simple terms for average bowlers, you failed miserably. I just started bowling again and I’m actually interested in learning this information, but you lost me within the first quarter of this video. This video might be great for a certain group, like professional bowlers, and pro shop owners, but most of them already know this stuff and from your comments at the beginning of this video, it seemed like you wanted to explain this information to lay people.
Unfortunately there’s nothing simple about this topic
@@tvbowlingsupply I should have been more specific about how I think this video could have been changed, so that it would have been more understandable by the average bowler, because I meant my comment to be a fyi, not a criticism, just to complain. Perhaps if you had added some definitions for a few more terms, the video might have been easier for me to keep up with. My intention was not just to complain, because, as I said, I am interested in learning this stuff.
@@traveling.down.the.road56 what definitions would you like for me to clarify?
At the risk of sounding very ignorant about this topic, I don’t know if my understanding of what you mean when you say strength or stability of the ball is correct. I will have to look up what the VAL and Diff means and see if that helps me understand more of this video. If I watch this video several times, I will probably begin to understand it better, but my point is that this difficult topic is very hard for the average bowler to grasp, so if your goal is to explain it to people like me, a little more translation into simple terms is probably needed. I appreciate the effort you are making.
@@traveling.down.the.road56 strength simply put for bowling is how soon or late the ball starts to “slow down”. A “stronger” ball will slow down sooner. There isn’t much that is simple about this topic, it’s a lot of geometry and physics. I just wanted to put this video out there bc it’s not something that is in the UA-cam space