Great vid, but I have a bit of info for you to clarify a point or two. 1) the lube that comes with the tire patch kit is actually a key component that reacts with the plugs to help them melt and seal into the hole. Technically, the lube is a vulcanizing agent. So use it! It’s not just to make it easier to insert, it’s key to sealing the hole. 2) not wider! Common misunderstanding when airing down. Your tread width is what it is, it doesn’t magically get wider when you air down. It gets Longer! Airing down increasing the square inches of tire contact patch by lengthening the tread patch in contact with the ground. Hope that helps. Btw the hub trick is pretty slick
The total contact area of the tire increases to match your psi. (Example: if you have 40 in^2 at 40 psi, you will have 80 in^2 at 20 psi per tire, assuming no weight change. Neat note, if you take your total weight and divide it by your tire pressure, you get your total contact area for all tires. Physics is neat.) This actually happens in all directions, but yes, most of the change is along the circumference of the tire.
@justinbiondi airing down is not an exact science, actually. It's different from one tire to another. Most tires don't even change shape until you get below 15psi. airing down is generally a bad idea unless you really need to increase performance because, you risk popping a bead unless you have beadlocks.
@@tracydrum6733Yeah, he’s wrong. It’s okay, we can still be friends. But think it through, the tread blocks don’t magically grow in width depending on tire pressure.
@@nathanwoods2088 You still didn't listen (or read). Sidewalls. Not tread. Sidewalls. (yes, what you said is also true, that's just not he was talking about, he was talking about how the sidewalls get weak)
I'm glad I found this channel since I've gotten some of the best information regarding tires and kit for my offroad trips. I carry two additional items: An airbag jack and an air powered impact gun to get the lug nuts off. Anyone who's struggled to jack up a truck and get 8 reluctant lugnuts off in 100+ degree weather like we have here in Texas and elsewhere will appreciate this. I'm in my Seventies now, not a young man anymore so any task's difficulty gets compounded by my waning strength and poorer tolerance to heat. Anything that helps me get the job done quicker with less strain greatly adds to my ability to keep offroading, something I've been doing for over 50 years and and hope to keep doing well into my Eighties!
@@DISOPtv Most of the advice he gave was to get someone off a trail and back to civilization though. I figure this is the same. It's not meant to get you back from the rubicon to Florida.
Great idea. I have a Jeep JKU and just got a 4Runner. Was thinking about this being a bummer the other day. Being able to share a spare would be great! How exactly would I configure this would I carry two one to go from JKU to 4R and another to go from 4R to JK? Or just build what need when/if I need it?
Great video, thanks for putting this out there. I bought my first jeep in 1976 and have owned at least 1 4x4 ever since, so needless to say, i have a little bit of experience in my bag of tricks. #1. Those tire kits are full of stuff that just isn't necessary. You need the file, glue and punch and plug, and extra valves. That's it. (I don't like long valves and I don't like metal valves - I want them to be short and pliable so they don't get broken off by rocks) Also, when plugging a hole, note the direction the object went into the tire and run both the file and the plug directly in line with that direction. Not lining up directly with the direction of the hole can make it almost impossible to get the plug in, as demonstrated in your video. I've used up to 7 or 8 plugs to 'temporarily' repair sidewall cuts. I say 'temporarily' even though that always last the duration of the run, and the trip home, and often for way too long afterwords. #2, De-beaded tires. If the tire is still on the vehicle, I can almost ALWAYS re-bead a tire by simply putting the compressor on and then using my hands and a little muscle, doesn't take all that much, to pull the tire toward towards the broken bead. It will seem like it's not working, but just be patient and before you know it, it holds and then pops. I can't tell you how many times people tell me, "You can't do that, that wont work".. and it almost always does. NOTE: Depending on where the bead is broken, or if it's broken all the way around, you may, or may not need to raise the tire off the ground. #3. Airing down PSI... Love the pre-set screw on deflators. On my old CJ's, which way about 3500-3800 lbs, I usually ran 3 to 5 PSI depending on terrain and objective. On my 4 door Wrangler which weighs about 7000 lbs, I air down to 10 - 12 PSI depending on terrain and objective. In some conditions, sand or snow I'll air down even lower. As long as you don't have a lead foot and crawl slowly, you will not pop a bead. If you get crazy, all bets are off. #4. Airing Up. What ever works for you is fine. I have the 4-way, but usually use it one tire at a time. Weird huh? I use, and love, the quick connect/disconnect nozzles. This allows you to place it on the valve and walk away and do something else. Also a good note: As far as speed, yes some compressors, air hoses, high flow nozzles etc, will pump faster/more air than others, but ultimately you are limited by the amount of air your valve will allow to pass. #5 Jacks. There's some great options out there these days, how much do you want to spend? Me, I've used a high lift jack since my first jeep. It's indispensable! I love them. I believe if you don't like the High-Lift jack, you don't understand it!. Once you know the nuances, it's a great tool! #6. Inflating a tire with flammable substance. A little is a lot! You do not need to spray the entire circumference of the wheel. Simply spray about 2 seconds in a small area, and toss a match in there. Works every time. That said, It's been decades since I've needed to do this as I can always do it with the wheel on the vehicle, without using flammables. #6. Spares. Your spacer is cool, but really, always carry a spare. It's YOUR responsibility to at least have a spare for your vehicle, and chances are, it's rare that you can't get a spare going with today's repair kits. Again, thanks for the great video.
Nate thanks...just for reference...those stems you have are made to only install with tire off wheel I beleive. And requires a separate tool. But I use the Colby emergency stem kit. Instalation from outside the wheel. Tire on! Hope this helps. Appreciate your vids Nate!
I have used those stems... you definitely have to de-bead the tire and push the sidewall down... but they just pull into place with a plier pretty easy. I'll have to check out the Colby kit... sounds easier.
@@OutdoorAutoDraper make a tool where you just grease up the valve stem and force it through a cone and you don't need to debead the tyre for mounting valve stems.
The reason I mounted my compressor under the hood instead of inside the cab is because my wife is usually asleep in the passenger seat by the time we get back to the pavement to air up and I don’t want to wake her up. A happy wife is worth the slightly increased wear on the compressor for me.
A ratchet strap AROUND THE Circumference of the tire is the best way to put even pressure to help rebead a tire without using starting fluid or a dump tank, a propane tank that has a 1" ball valve and a nozzle that puts in a whole buncha air RFN and seats the bead. Can also be used to shoot potatoes at your buddies when they are off taking a piss in the bushes
Yep, around the circumference is the way to go. Another key to that method is removing the valve core so you can get the maximum flow and pressure to seat the bead. Once the bead pops back on put the core back in and air it up normally. Never had a problem doing it that way.
@@landonknight1631 When you seat the bead with a ratchet strap there's no explosive inflation. The bead just slides into place and maybe you get a pop as it seats, but there's no pressure in the tire, so no danger unless you're dumb enough to stick a finger in as it seats.
I carry a morrflate quad as well as a single hose with my arb twin. The thing I like about the morrflate is not having to sit by each tire in uncomfortable weather.
I've built a few with hoses, T's and a regulator. As long as you have air compressor-->regulator-->4 hoses you're good. As long as all tires are hooked up; the tires will self balance to the adjusted pressure at the regulator.
I think it gets overlooked, but having even a small air tank with a pressure regulator can do a lot for filling up tires and help save your compressor by keeping water out.
I'm glad that I found your page. I've been Jeeping for a loong time. There's always something new to learn. I think that the reason to get the air hooked up quickly when blowing the bead back on is that it is still burning and eating up the air. Cooling down sounds good too. I've seen sidewalls ripped up from too much starting fluid at first. So. I start a count of three, then 4,5,6 etcetera until it seats. Thanks
Another excellent tutorial! I took your advice and put on the BF Goodrich 12.50 X 35 X 18 inch rims on my 2007 Tundra. I was going to use the OEM spare, but eventually did not, and took your advice that the over size tire will fit into the spare tire wheel wheel, which it does( with cutting the side restraints). I found out that if one does use an under sized spare tire, one must run this on the front of the vehicle and not engage the transfer case. This will allow the axles to turn independently and not stress the differential. This can not happen on the rear axle which is where an under-sized tire can stress the spyder gears and blow them out. Yes, using the undersized tire on the front will affect the steering so one will be limited to perhaps 35 mph all the way to town. That is better than walking 50 miles out of some place. Some may say that having a full size spare will allow one to continue the trip, but that is a very unwise thing to do. If the location gives one a flat, covering the same area without a spare is foolish. When I get a flat, the trip is over until I get it repaired. Having friends with spares that fit your vehicle is the ideal way to go. You may consider writing a book on off roading and four wheel drive. Most of the available books are either four wheel drive guides to specific places, or about specific vehicles and how to modify them. No one has real down to earth advice based on experience like you do.
Not really a hack, but I simply never drive on the road aired down. As soon as I'm done with a trail, I immediately air back up. Even if it's for a 5 mile stretch. Sure, it takes time. But that saves wear and prevents potential heat issues. Outstanding video!
Great video very good instruction on base problems you will encounter if you drive the bush. Spent lotta years using a 2wheel drive and a set of chains getting over some amazing country in northern Alberta and BC during all the seasons of the year back in the 70's.
Monster valve from powertank. Mechanical bottle Jack with axle cradle adapter (swag off-road) and run up/down with m18 electric impact. Assorted blocks of wood. Small tarp to lay on and not in mud or show. A snow shovel. And much more. Good videos.
I run power at 4 corners and connect my compressor (an old QuickAir 3) at each corner, and use a short, larger diameter air hose. People always ask me how I air up so fast, and I think it's the hose. The long skinny hoses everyone uses with their fixed compressors probably reduces flow quite a bit. The QA3 requires an open chuck which is actually nice.
I love my Morrflate compressor and 4 way hose. Sure it takes a bit of time to get set up, but I almost always finish airing up and have everything packed away before anyone else that I am with finishes doing one tire at a time. But that largely comes down to the type of compressors they are using. I can do 15 to 35 psi in less than 5 minutes on my 33's.
This is the first of your videos that I've seen. I usually go into this type of video with pretty low expectations, but I found your video to have a lot of "meat" to it! Good job!
I use 4/6 galvanized tubing for my rock sliders, having them welded solid and put a air Chuck in them, they also double as my air tanks. For airing back up and use of air tools. I haven't tried it yet but they may help me float 😂
All your ideas are very good and very well fought out the only thing I do different than you on getting the bead back on is I have a circumference strap that goes all the way around the outside of the tire with ratchet action it works very well has never let me down
If you're going with a small group take a small/ cheap drone to scout ahead if you need to. two of my buddies and I went on a small trip, and the lead vehicle put us into a wash which was only suitable for side by side vehicles, for the last 4 miles. we were able to make it out but had we had a drone to scout the area we would have been able to avoid the issue all together.
Great video, thx! I. carry two Milwaukee M18 inflators, I can inflate two tires at once and have spare if one breaks. Also, you can still buy inner tubes for most tire sizes that could work in a pinch and not take up too much space/weight to carry. I like the Coyote deflators and Safety Seal tires plug kit, both are made in USA.
It took me several years and many many sets of different brands of tires, but eventually I found a particular tire that could withstand the environment I operate in. After that, I rarely punctured tires.
I would also add the Colby emergency valve stem to your list. If you get the RED you don’t need a wrench to install it. One of these saved me when I got a flat with my hot rod. I don’t have a spare because of the different tire sizes and keep spare Colby stems,plugs and air pump. The stem cracked and started leaking and it was super easy to install. I was on my way in less than 5 minutes. There are other tools to install rubber valve stems but they need lube to work and even then can be super hard to install stems with. The Colby stems work so good you could actually use them permanently in place of rubber or metal stems.
20 years ago, I used a cheap tire plug kit to fix a tire on an VW Baja bug . Funny thing is it still holds air today. I’ve spent a lot of time working at a tire shop and the cheap plug kits worked just fine.
@@derekcoaker6579 I don't get flats often (hardly ever!) but have never had a mushroom plug fail, and I thought (meaning I'm not sure, but they might be) the mushroom plugs were more secure due to their design, as inside air-pressure pushes on the "mushroom" top of the plug and flattens it out some but there's not enough pressure to force the plug back out the hole. But again, I'm never had either type -- tacky/ribbon or mushroom -- fail EXCEPT on "unplug-able" too-thin-walled/too-flexible scooter tires (as mentioned) where NO type of plug will hold. So if you had either type on-board your car/truck, you'd be fine. I've never looked up any comparison-testing of the 2 types of plugs, but that would be interesting. Regardless of the result, as I said neither type has ever failed me so I can't say which is "best." The MAIN thing is to CARRY a plug-kit (!), and as well a 12v COMPRESSOR (of course!). IIRC, the brand I got (YEARS ago) is "Stop & Go" -- it came in a very small pouch (yellow lettering & purple "tire tread" accent). No CO2 cylinders were included but apparently they have those nowadays (google their website). But there all ALL kinds of mushroom plug kits seen on Amazon...not sure how good they are (tool-quality or rubber plug quality), would try to get a well-made one, and the Stop & Go brand seems to be quality. Now, I'm not sure which type of plug would fit my "off-road-focused" 33" Falken Wildpeak A/T3W tires on my Jeep Gladiator (Rubi) -- never had a flat and they are less likely to get one (compared to street-tires) -- but I guess I'll find out when if (when) it happens! ;-) Good luck, "Jeep Wave" (...because "It's a Jeep thing") -- BR
You can use a ratchet strap down the center of the tread to help seat the bead of a tire. As the strap squeezes the tire, it forces the bead out. Just remember to release the tension as soon as the bead seats. You don't want the strap to break from the air pressure and go flying. Used this method in a tire shop fur years.
In my kit, I added a very small vial of dish soap. Sometimes its hard to find where the leak is! You can combine the dish soap in a mug with some water and pour the soapy water over the tyre to find the source of the leak, can use the same for radiator hoses etc. if they get a leak.
I have 4 oversized aftermarket wheels and a stock steel spare wheel. The tires are oversized, the spare wasn't. My spare tire now is still narrower but the circumference is the same as the other 4. Resetting a bead(s). A ratchet strap around the circumference will help push the sidewalls out against the rim, ideally sealing it to fill with air.
You mentioned about taking the battery pack that has an air compressor integrated in its system. Good idea. We went a different route. Since we had Ryobi tools, they had an air compressor that runs on the same battery system as our tools, the One+. It's "budget friendly". It's not $8-900. We got our air compressor from Ryobi for less than $170. It's not part of the electrical system of our FJ. We take and store it when needed. Hope this helps.
Great info, I have been using my ryobi air compressor from Home Depot priced at $150. It’s been 5 years and it still works, half the price of fancy ones and it airs up my stock tire sized tundra when off-roading no problem. Sometimes less is more.
Never heard of the hub adapter before either. Good Idea. I don't travel in groups often, but it drives me crazy to watch other channels like @ExpeditionOverland where they have a fleet of different vehicles and they are all carrying a ton of stuff and not really taking advantage of the fact they have this purpose built convoy.
I agree with the hose ends getting gunked up when they drag across the ground not to mention you get dirtier wrapping/curling of dirty hoses. I have done a few variations of air up systems and now have settled on added air hose plumbing under my F150 with a connector at each corner of the truck and 4 short hoses that are the right length that they stay off the ground. My hose or ends typically never touch the ground. I had talked to a tire engineer from Falken years ago and he told me if you are aired down to ~20 psi give or take a couple then you should be good for a few miles on pavement if you keep it under 50 mph. I have done this quite a bit and keep an eye on tire pressures while on pavement and have never seen them go up more than 1 psi indicating they are not too hot. I have also checked the sidewalls for warmth and have not really felt much difference. He noted that many people have run tires for months/years ~15 psi low and not noticed especially before TPMS was common and required. That is on of the main reasons TPMS's were required, so many people ran around with low tires it wasted fuel and added to greenhouse gasses.
Im pretty sure NRS straps are holding my life together! HAHAHAH The tire spacer idea is brilliant! My "hack" is to have a diverse crew to wheel with. Some trades people as well as those in the medical field make a great team!
That is a good Hack... and yes... nrs straps hold my trucks together and even my pants up sometimes... we are a rafting family so we have been using these for a long time.
I agree with multi tire inflators, however I'm very good at setting it up, tons of practice lol and they all have quick connectors and I'm up and connected to my air compressor in under 45 seconds
Thank you for all of this valuable info! We usually have newer tires on our rig but we have gotten by for way too long on luck. Will be ordering a couple new items for our toolbox.
Based on the thumbnail I was skeptical about viewing this, but did so anyways. Glad I did. While the first few points were geared for the novice, I did learn from the second third (shout out to Car Talk) of your video. Also happy you included a link to the air chuck you discussed. About the adapter ring, anyone in my trail group better coordinate that before getting on the trail cus my spare is dedicated for my vehicle and they better supply the adapter ring.
My channel is a bit weird… it really is just a sharing/ teaching channel so we try to cover a variety of skill levels… you obviously saw that immediately
Reseating/rebeading your tire: Maybe this was covered, maybe not but pull the valve core so you don't have that bottleneck. Also a can of bead sealer goes a long way to help seat a bead by just being sticky and helping to create enough of a seal when you manage to wrestle your tire into place. Avoids having to set your tire on fire... Mostly lol
I just have smallish, but rated for large trucks & RVs, compressor with a short-ish hose but a long 12V cable that alligator clips onto my starter battery. I got it at O'Reilly's. A longer wire takes up less space in my rig than a longer hose. I don't care how long it takes to air up my tires. I've got all day anyway. I'm out there to be out there. Not to rush to the next destination.
I have covered little bits of this stuff in other videos but I get questions on Air up & Down and other related Items I figured it was time to consolidate it all into one video...
i have a three gallon air tank to get 140 psi out of. it is regulated to 31 psi. for airing up. and use a air line locking cap. but yes those gismos for dropping psi are good to have.
I’ve always wrapped a ratchet strap around the tire, and ratchet it down as much as I Can and that brings the center of tire down pushing the bead to the wheel/rim.
Great video! One thing you didn't consider in your discussion about 4 tire inflators is that they aren't as hard on your compressor. You get less back pressure, thus less heat with a 4 tie hose, and heat kills compressors. Your typical Schrader value is only rated for about 150 LPM. So the restriction comes from there as well as the single hose for the compressor. For example, I have a 300 LPM compressor. So if I use a single hose with it, I'm "wasting" about 150 LPM, or half of my airflow. Guess what happens when you do that? Yup, you generate heat, which is hard on the compressor, AND effects your duty cycle.
Great info. I have one of the NAPA twin compressors similar to the ones Morrflate and a couple other companies sell. I only air one tire at a time and I always finish before the guys with the quad setups. I was in the process of switching tire carriers and went trail riding without a spare with a group. I have a TJ and I carry a TJ to JK wheel adapter for the reason you mentioned. As luck would have it I cut a tire on the trail and I couldn’t find anyone in the group willing to give up their spares. Lol. I now carry a spare all the time. Lol
I thought this video was going to be like a lot of the others and just be dumb, but no you have actual tips that make sense and things I really wouldn't have thought about.
I’ve heard the morrflate guy on the snailtrail podcast say schrader valves have a max flow of 1.5 cfm. If you use one of the 4 hose systems, you can shove 6 cfm in there and won’t back pressure a fancy compressor as much……and won’t overheat it as easily
Yup... I called that out in the video... the advantage to those 4 hose systems is the heat reduction.... the other solution is to change your valves to high flow ones from a company like Apex
@@OutdoorAuto my bad then! Sorry for starting out with the downer comment. This video is awesome. Really appreciate all the excellent info you’ve been putting out there.
in my decades of driving very rough trails. i have never damage any of my valve stems. buy the short rubber ones and they are pretty well safe from rocks. the hard steel ones will get hurt. and only once i hurt a sidewall. never had a flat off road.
I choose to use Makita portable hand held air compressors. They use 18v makita batteries, I have a bunch of those. A battery can inflate three to four tirers. I have 38s on my Jeep. It has a digital read out, and you can set the pressure that you want the pump to stop. I have four of them and that makes the task fairly fast.
@@cooksadventures8748 Great minds think alike. lol The newest model inflates even faster. I still have to use a velcro strap to keep it going though. Wist they would have an auto trigger lock.
30 mph = 50 kmphr. A Canadian. We had to figure that all out in the 1970's when we went to the metric system. Most towns are 7 miles apart. Your gallon is actually metric, because your quart is a litre. We had to convert the imperial measurement to a metric equivalent.
Who makes/where can you purchase the mini air hose reel shown in your video. I have seen this question asked multiple times without answer. I am very interested in getting one for my rig.
I don't understand the popularity of those valve core deflators either! I have a set similar to yours, take a lap screwing the on, then a lap screwing them off. Easy peasy. I use two $50 amazon digital air compressors to air up. One for each side, i'm done in about 10 minutes. They have worked great for almost 5 years now! (Plus i can move them i to whatever rig i'm riding in for the day!)
Cheap double pump compressors from Amazon work great. I use two at the same time, I always get my tires up to street pressure before anyone. But this is from sand pressure at 8psi.
I'm actually heard of someone taking a piece of rubber and just melting it to fill a hole. I've never tried it but I guess if you had to it's worth a shot. I guess maybe you could carry a bike tube or something like that to have some just rubber material to use.
@outdoorauto I would have sold you my 03 Sequoia thats 85% finished for over landing. And its clean 😊. I'm looking forward to see what you do to the Land cruiser
I want to do a sequoia build some day… I pretty much have to build and then sell cause I can’t afford to keep all these… but I really like the sequoias
Concerning spare tires, make sure it's not past the expiration date. Maybe five years ago, I had to use my spare tire. About 1/4 a mile down the road, the side wall blew out. Also having a full size spare means when you replace it, you don't have to order a weird sized donut.
Run the ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire. Tighten strap to force sidewalls out toward bead. Remove valve core to slow maximum air flow. Air up until bead seats then reinstall valve core.
Spare control arm bolts and torque paint! My jeep lj front axle turned into a 3 link for a little! Found the bolt. But couldnt find the nut. Luckily my buddies tire carrier had a extra bolt i could take that used the same nut.
For mismatched tire sizes, put them on the rear axle and lock your ARB. This will prevent spinning the spider gears, which is what can wear out with mismatched tires.
Always carry rated towing and yanking(snap) straps, with shackles, preferably soft shackles. Also, a properly sized, and trusted, jack... Whether Hi-Lift, or any other variation or style.... Just know that it works for your vehicle's height and whatever most likely situations you may encounter.
Could you look at 110/120V tankless air compressors for hybrids like the new Landcruiser and Tacomas? They should be available way cheaper and more powerful. Maybe even look at cheap harbor freight air compressors and then removing and capping the tank connection?
You know what's great for airing down? Your re-inflation gear. Make a DIY 4 tire inflator, put a gauge and a gate valve on it, deflate all your tires at once and don't bother with the extra gear just to deflate.
I mean, I just use the old ARB ez deflator, like the ones he's saying to not bother with. It's all brass with a steel shaft, and other than some O rings, will probably last me a lifetime. I don't really get the hype for airing down fast, less than 1 minute a tire is pretty okay with me. Plus, it's just part of the process, gets you out of the seat for a little bit.
Its actually better to mount miss matched spare on front, but only on part-time 4x4. Then You can unlock hubs and avoid overstress on diff. In rear diff will work hard even without LSD. With LSD You can easly "burn it".
Great vid, but I have a bit of info for you to clarify a point or two. 1) the lube that comes with the tire patch kit is actually a key component that reacts with the plugs to help them melt and seal into the hole. Technically, the lube is a vulcanizing agent. So use it! It’s not just to make it easier to insert, it’s key to sealing the hole.
2) not wider! Common misunderstanding when airing down. Your tread width is what it is, it doesn’t magically get wider when you air down. It gets Longer! Airing down increasing the square inches of tire contact patch by lengthening the tread patch in contact with the ground.
Hope that helps.
Btw the hub trick is pretty slick
The total contact area of the tire increases to match your psi. (Example: if you have 40 in^2 at 40 psi, you will have 80 in^2 at 20 psi per tire, assuming no weight change. Neat note, if you take your total weight and divide it by your tire pressure, you get your total contact area for all tires. Physics is neat.) This actually happens in all directions, but yes, most of the change is along the circumference of the tire.
@justinbiondi airing down is not an exact science, actually. It's different from one tire to another. Most tires don't even change shape until you get below 15psi. airing down is generally a bad idea unless you really need to increase performance because, you risk popping a bead unless you have beadlocks.
Your sidewalls get wider not your tread listen to the guy speak
@@tracydrum6733Yeah, he’s wrong. It’s okay, we can still be friends. But think it through, the tread blocks don’t magically grow in width depending on tire pressure.
@@nathanwoods2088 You still didn't listen (or read). Sidewalls. Not tread. Sidewalls. (yes, what you said is also true, that's just not he was talking about, he was talking about how the sidewalls get weak)
I'm glad I found this channel since I've gotten some of the best information regarding tires and kit for my offroad trips. I carry two additional items: An airbag jack and an air powered impact gun to get the lug nuts off. Anyone who's struggled to jack up a truck and get 8 reluctant lugnuts off in 100+ degree weather like we have here in Texas and elsewhere will appreciate this. I'm in my Seventies now, not a young man anymore so any task's difficulty gets compounded by my waning strength and poorer tolerance to heat. Anything that helps me get the job done quicker with less strain greatly adds to my ability to keep offroading, something I've been doing for over 50 years and and hope to keep doing well into my Eighties!
Battery powered tools work better because you are not relying on an air compressor which may not have enough volume to drive an air tool.
The idea of a hub adapter is genius... and makes a lot of sense if you are offroading with other makes and models of rigs on a regular basis!
I have smart friends 😂
Some wheels are hub centric, so don't ruin your buddy's wheel.
@@DISOPtv Most of the advice he gave was to get someone off a trail and back to civilization though. I figure this is the same. It's not meant to get you back from the rubicon to Florida.
Great idea. I have a Jeep JKU and just got a 4Runner. Was thinking about this being a bummer the other day. Being able to share a spare would be great! How exactly would I configure this would I carry two one to go from JKU to 4R and another to go from 4R to JK? Or just build what need when/if I need it?
❤@@TheCajunGaijin
Great video, thanks for putting this out there. I bought my first jeep in 1976 and have owned at least 1 4x4 ever since, so needless to say, i have a little bit of experience in my bag of tricks.
#1. Those tire kits are full of stuff that just isn't necessary. You need the file, glue and punch and plug, and extra valves. That's it. (I don't like long valves and I don't like metal valves - I want them to be short and pliable so they don't get broken off by rocks) Also, when plugging a hole, note the direction the object went into the tire and run both the file and the plug directly in line with that direction. Not lining up directly with the direction of the hole can make it almost impossible to get the plug in, as demonstrated in your video. I've used up to 7 or 8 plugs to 'temporarily' repair sidewall cuts. I say 'temporarily' even though that always last the duration of the run, and the trip home, and often for way too long afterwords.
#2, De-beaded tires. If the tire is still on the vehicle, I can almost ALWAYS re-bead a tire by simply putting the compressor on and then using my hands and a little muscle, doesn't take all that much, to pull the tire toward towards the broken bead. It will seem like it's not working, but just be patient and before you know it, it holds and then pops. I can't tell you how many times people tell me, "You can't do that, that wont work".. and it almost always does. NOTE: Depending on where the bead is broken, or if it's broken all the way around, you may, or may not need to raise the tire off the ground.
#3. Airing down PSI... Love the pre-set screw on deflators. On my old CJ's, which way about 3500-3800 lbs, I usually ran 3 to 5 PSI depending on terrain and objective. On my 4 door Wrangler which weighs about 7000 lbs, I air down to 10 - 12 PSI depending on terrain and objective. In some conditions, sand or snow I'll air down even lower. As long as you don't have a lead foot and crawl slowly, you will not pop a bead. If you get crazy, all bets are off.
#4. Airing Up. What ever works for you is fine. I have the 4-way, but usually use it one tire at a time. Weird huh? I use, and love, the quick connect/disconnect nozzles. This allows you to place it on the valve and walk away and do something else. Also a good note: As far as speed, yes some compressors, air hoses, high flow nozzles etc, will pump faster/more air than others, but ultimately you are limited by the amount of air your valve will allow to pass.
#5 Jacks. There's some great options out there these days, how much do you want to spend? Me, I've used a high lift jack since my first jeep. It's indispensable! I love them. I believe if you don't like the High-Lift jack, you don't understand it!. Once you know the nuances, it's a great tool!
#6. Inflating a tire with flammable substance. A little is a lot! You do not need to spray the entire circumference of the wheel. Simply spray about 2 seconds in a small area, and toss a match in there. Works every time. That said, It's been decades since I've needed to do this as I can always do it with the wheel on the vehicle, without using flammables.
#6. Spares. Your spacer is cool, but really, always carry a spare. It's YOUR responsibility to at least have a spare for your vehicle, and chances are, it's rare that you can't get a spare going with today's repair kits.
Again, thanks for the great video.
This is great stuff… thanks for taking the time.
This is one of the best channels on UA-cam. Hands down.
Nate thanks...just for reference...those stems you have are made to only install with tire off wheel I beleive. And requires a separate tool. But I use the Colby emergency stem kit. Instalation from outside the wheel. Tire on! Hope this helps. Appreciate your vids Nate!
I have used those stems... you definitely have to de-bead the tire and push the sidewall down... but they just pull into place with a plier pretty easy. I'll have to check out the Colby kit... sounds easier.
Colby kit is great since you don’t have to mess with the bead.
@@OutdoorAutoDraper make a tool where you just grease up the valve stem and force it through a cone and you don't need to debead the tyre for mounting valve stems.
The reason I mounted my compressor under the hood instead of inside the cab is because my wife is usually asleep in the passenger seat by the time we get back to the pavement to air up and I don’t want to wake her up. A happy wife is worth the slightly increased wear on the compressor for me.
That adds up 👍
Similar for me - but it is the dog. She is so scared of different noises and she is usually inside the truck when I air up.
A ratchet strap AROUND THE Circumference of the tire is the best way to put even pressure to help rebead a tire without using starting fluid or a dump tank, a propane tank that has a 1" ball valve and a nozzle that puts in a whole buncha air RFN and seats the bead. Can also be used to shoot potatoes at your buddies when they are off taking a piss in the bushes
Yep, around the circumference is the way to go. Another key to that method is removing the valve core so you can get the maximum flow and pressure to seat the bead. Once the bead pops back on put the core back in and air it up normally.
Never had a problem doing it that way.
Just be sure to be ready to release the strap asap once the bead seats lol
@@landonknight1631 When you seat the bead with a ratchet strap there's no explosive inflation. The bead just slides into place and maybe you get a pop as it seats, but there's no pressure in the tire, so no danger unless you're dumb enough to stick a finger in as it seats.
Yeah I use the ratchet strap method also. 👍
Thanks!
Thank you so much, I appreciate the support for the channel.
I carry a morrflate quad as well as a single hose with my arb twin. The thing I like about the morrflate is not having to sit by each tire in uncomfortable weather.
@@JoshLC80 me too
@@BuzzyfuzzMe too, but I use the Thor version. It is awesome so far.
I've built a few with hoses, T's and a regulator. As long as you have air compressor-->regulator-->4 hoses you're good. As long as all tires are hooked up; the tires will self balance to the adjusted pressure at the regulator.
I think it gets overlooked, but having even a small air tank with a pressure regulator can do a lot for filling up tires and help save your compressor by keeping water out.
I'm glad that I found your page.
I've been Jeeping for a loong time.
There's always something new to learn.
I think that the reason to get the air hooked up quickly when blowing the bead back on is that it is still burning and eating up the air. Cooling down sounds good too.
I've seen sidewalls ripped up from too much starting fluid at first. So. I start a count of three, then 4,5,6 etcetera until it seats.
Thanks
Another excellent tutorial! I took your advice and put on the BF Goodrich 12.50 X 35 X 18 inch rims on my 2007 Tundra. I was going to use the OEM spare, but eventually did not, and took your advice that the over size tire will fit into the spare tire wheel wheel, which it does( with cutting the side restraints).
I found out that if one does use an under sized spare tire, one must run this on the front of the vehicle and not engage the transfer case. This will allow the axles to turn independently and not stress the differential. This can not happen on the rear axle which is where an under-sized tire can stress the spyder gears and blow them out. Yes, using the undersized tire on the front will affect the steering so one will be limited to perhaps 35 mph all the way to town. That is better than walking 50 miles out of some place.
Some may say that having a full size spare will allow one to continue the trip, but that is a very unwise thing to do. If the location gives one a flat, covering the same area without a spare is foolish. When I get a flat, the trip is over until I get it repaired. Having friends with spares that fit your vehicle is the ideal way to go.
You may consider writing a book on off roading and four wheel drive. Most of the available books are either four wheel drive guides to specific places, or about specific vehicles and how to modify them. No one has real down to earth advice based on experience like you do.
Super helpful! Great video
Thanks 🙏… we still need to team up on a video some day… next year you should join our budget build competition.
@@OutdoorAuto for sure, would love to meet up some day
Not really a hack, but I simply never drive on the road aired down. As soon as I'm done with a trail, I immediately air back up. Even if it's for a 5 mile stretch. Sure, it takes time. But that saves wear and prevents potential heat issues. Outstanding video!
Your videos have always been good, but they just keep getting better. Way to go on this one!
Wow, actually great advice, a lot of these advice videos are so generic and simplistic, great to watch something useful, this was worth the watch.
Oh whew… these videos are a hard balance to find… thanks for the feedback
Great video very good instruction on base problems you will encounter if you drive the bush. Spent lotta years using a 2wheel drive and a set of chains getting over some amazing country in northern Alberta and BC during all the seasons of the year back in the 70's.
Love the tips. PSI x 3 will give you a decent kph (metric) speed.
Monster valve from powertank. Mechanical bottle Jack with axle cradle adapter (swag off-road) and run up/down with m18 electric impact. Assorted blocks of wood. Small tarp to lay on and not in mud or show. A snow shovel. And much more. Good videos.
I am very new to off-roading and I did choose #5 correctly! I have that very set to air down.
This video was really well done. Thanks for putting the time in. I need to go look at my patch kit now.
I run power at 4 corners and connect my compressor (an old QuickAir 3) at each corner, and use a short, larger diameter air hose. People always ask me how I air up so fast, and I think it's the hose. The long skinny hoses everyone uses with their fixed compressors probably reduces flow quite a bit. The QA3 requires an open chuck which is actually nice.
I love my Morrflate compressor and 4 way hose. Sure it takes a bit of time to get set up, but I almost always finish airing up and have everything packed away before anyone else that I am with finishes doing one tire at a time. But that largely comes down to the type of compressors they are using. I can do 15 to 35 psi in less than 5 minutes on my 33's.
As soon as my friends saw my morrflate setup, they started waiting to use mine instead of whatever they had 😂
This is the first of your videos that I've seen. I usually go into this type of video with pretty low expectations, but I found your video to have a lot of "meat" to it! Good job!
I use 4/6 galvanized tubing for my rock sliders, having them welded solid and put a air Chuck in them, they also double as my air tanks. For airing back up and use of air tools. I haven't tried it yet but they may help me float 😂
All your ideas are very good and very well fought out the only thing I do different than you on getting the bead back on is I have a circumference strap that goes all the way around the outside of the tire with ratchet action it works very well has never let me down
If you're going with a small group take a small/ cheap drone to scout ahead if you need to.
two of my buddies and I went on a small trip, and the lead vehicle put us into a wash which was only suitable for side by side vehicles, for the last 4 miles. we were able to make it out but had we had a drone to scout the area we would have been able to avoid the issue all together.
Great video, thx! I. carry two Milwaukee M18 inflators, I can inflate two tires at once and have spare if one breaks. Also, you can still buy inner tubes for most tire sizes that could work in a pinch and not take up too much space/weight to carry. I like the Coyote deflators and Safety Seal tires plug kit, both are made in USA.
I have thought about getting one of those inflators. I have been looking for a while for a decent battery powered air inflator that works well.
It took me several years and many many sets of different brands of tires, but eventually I found a particular tire that could withstand the environment I operate in. After that, I rarely punctured tires.
Motomaster Twin inflator is my favorite. It's sold at Canadian Tire.
The "fuse" idea is great!
I would also add the Colby emergency valve stem to your list. If you get the RED you don’t need a wrench to install it. One of these saved me when I got a flat with my hot rod. I don’t have a spare because of the different tire sizes and keep spare Colby stems,plugs and air pump. The stem cracked and started leaking and it was super easy to install. I was on my way in less than 5 minutes. There are other tools to install rubber valve stems but they need lube to work and even then can be super hard to install stems with. The Colby stems work so good you could actually use them permanently in place of rubber or metal stems.
20 years ago, I used a cheap tire plug kit to fix a tire on an VW Baja bug . Funny thing is it still holds air today. I’ve spent a lot of time working at a tire shop and the cheap plug kits worked just fine.
They really do… I am amazed what the can hold
Yes, the old "sticky ribbon" type of plugs work fine...but for some time now, I've been carrying/using a mushroom-type plug kit.
-- BR
@@billredding2000 So they work well? I've never knew about them till reading your comment. Was curious what the advantages were?
@@derekcoaker6579 I don't get flats often (hardly ever!) but have never had a mushroom plug fail, and I thought (meaning I'm not sure, but they might be) the mushroom plugs were more secure due to their design, as inside air-pressure pushes on the "mushroom" top of the plug and flattens it out some but there's not enough pressure to force the plug back out the hole. But again, I'm never had either type -- tacky/ribbon or mushroom -- fail EXCEPT on "unplug-able" too-thin-walled/too-flexible scooter tires (as mentioned) where NO type of plug will hold. So if you had either type on-board your car/truck, you'd be fine.
I've never looked up any comparison-testing of the 2 types of plugs, but that would be interesting. Regardless of the result, as I said neither type has ever failed me so I can't say which is "best."
The MAIN thing is to CARRY a plug-kit (!), and as well a 12v COMPRESSOR (of course!).
IIRC, the brand I got (YEARS ago) is "Stop & Go" -- it came in a very small pouch (yellow lettering & purple "tire tread" accent). No CO2 cylinders were included but apparently they have those nowadays (google their website).
But there all ALL kinds of mushroom plug kits seen on Amazon...not sure how good they are (tool-quality or rubber plug quality), would try to get a well-made one, and the Stop & Go brand seems to be quality.
Now, I'm not sure which type of plug would fit my "off-road-focused" 33" Falken Wildpeak A/T3W tires on my Jeep Gladiator (Rubi) -- never had a flat and they are less likely to get one (compared to street-tires) -- but I guess I'll find out when if (when) it happens! ;-)
Good luck,
"Jeep Wave" (...because "It's a Jeep thing")
-- BR
Dry rot will leave you stranded.
Simply got to be "the best" meat & potatoes kind of tire/air down/patch//air up/ off road related best practices sh*t ever👍
Thanks... feedback is super helpful.
You can use a ratchet strap down the center of the tread to help seat the bead of a tire. As the strap squeezes the tire, it forces the bead out. Just remember to release the tension as soon as the bead seats. You don't want the strap to break from the air pressure and go flying. Used this method in a tire shop fur years.
Great tip
In my kit, I added a very small vial of dish soap. Sometimes its hard to find where the leak is! You can combine the dish soap in a mug with some water and pour the soapy water over the tyre to find the source of the leak, can use the same for radiator hoses etc. if they get a leak.
I have 4 oversized aftermarket wheels and a stock steel spare wheel. The tires are oversized, the spare wasn't. My spare tire now is still narrower but the circumference is the same as the other 4.
Resetting a bead(s). A ratchet strap around the circumference will help push the sidewalls out against the rim, ideally sealing it to fill with air.
You mentioned about taking the battery pack that has an air compressor integrated in its system. Good idea. We went a different route. Since we had Ryobi tools, they had an air compressor that runs on the same battery system as our tools, the One+. It's "budget friendly". It's not $8-900. We got our air compressor from Ryobi for less than $170. It's not part of the electrical system of our FJ. We take and store it when needed. Hope this helps.
Great info, I have been using my ryobi air compressor from
Home Depot priced at $150. It’s been 5 years and it still works, half the price of fancy ones and it airs up my stock tire sized tundra when off-roading no problem. Sometimes less is more.
I love it... I am a big fan of affordable solutions... spend money on gas and food and get out there
Never heard of the hub adapter before either. Good Idea.
I don't travel in groups often, but it drives me crazy to watch other channels like @ExpeditionOverland where they have a fleet of different vehicles and they are all carrying a ton of stuff and not really taking advantage of the fact they have this purpose built convoy.
I agree with the hose ends getting gunked up when they drag across the ground not to mention you get dirtier wrapping/curling of dirty hoses. I have done a few variations of air up systems and now have settled on added air hose plumbing under my F150 with a connector at each corner of the truck and 4 short hoses that are the right length that they stay off the ground. My hose or ends typically never touch the ground. I had talked to a tire engineer from Falken years ago and he told me if you are aired down to ~20 psi give or take a couple then you should be good for a few miles on pavement if you keep it under 50 mph. I have done this quite a bit and keep an eye on tire pressures while on pavement and have never seen them go up more than 1 psi indicating they are not too hot. I have also checked the sidewalls for warmth and have not really felt much difference. He noted that many people have run tires for months/years ~15 psi low and not noticed especially before TPMS was common and required. That is on of the main reasons TPMS's were required, so many people ran around with low tires it wasted fuel and added to greenhouse gasses.
That sounds awesome.
Im pretty sure NRS straps are holding my life together! HAHAHAH
The tire spacer idea is brilliant!
My "hack" is to have a diverse crew to wheel with. Some trades people as well as those in the medical field make a great team!
That is a good Hack... and yes... nrs straps hold my trucks together and even my pants up sometimes... we are a rafting family so we have been using these for a long time.
I agree with multi tire inflators, however I'm very good at setting it up, tons of practice lol and they all have quick connectors and I'm up and connected to my air compressor in under 45 seconds
Thank you for all of this valuable info! We usually have newer tires on our rig but we have gotten by for way too long on luck. Will be ordering a couple new items for our toolbox.
Based on the thumbnail I was skeptical about viewing this, but did so anyways. Glad I did. While the first few points were geared for the novice, I did learn from the second third (shout out to Car Talk) of your video. Also happy you included a link to the air chuck you discussed. About the adapter ring, anyone in my trail group better coordinate that before getting on the trail cus my spare is dedicated for my vehicle and they better supply the adapter ring.
My channel is a bit weird… it really is just a sharing/ teaching channel so we try to cover a variety of skill levels… you obviously saw that immediately
I’m so glad you acknowledged the innuendoes. Biting my tongue so hard it’s bleeding
😂 - that kind of comedy is too easy
Reseating/rebeading your tire: Maybe this was covered, maybe not but pull the valve core so you don't have that bottleneck. Also a can of bead sealer goes a long way to help seat a bead by just being sticky and helping to create enough of a seal when you manage to wrestle your tire into place. Avoids having to set your tire on fire... Mostly lol
I just have smallish, but rated for large trucks & RVs, compressor with a short-ish hose but a long 12V cable that alligator clips onto my starter battery. I got it at O'Reilly's. A longer wire takes up less space in my rig than a longer hose. I don't care how long it takes to air up my tires. I've got all day anyway. I'm out there to be out there. Not to rush to the next destination.
Fantastic video Nathan! This needs to go into my reference folder.
I have covered little bits of this stuff in other videos but I get questions on Air up & Down and other related Items I figured it was time to consolidate it all into one video...
@@OutdoorAuto Your hard work is appreciated.
i have a three gallon air tank to get 140 psi out of. it is regulated to 31 psi. for airing up.
and use a air line locking cap.
but yes those gismos for dropping psi are good to have.
I keep 2 full size spares. Onboard twin viair compressors, tire repair kit.
I’ve always wrapped a ratchet strap around the tire, and ratchet it down as much as I Can and that brings the center of tire down pushing the bead to the wheel/rim.
Great video! One thing you didn't consider in your discussion about 4 tire inflators is that they aren't as hard on your compressor. You get less back pressure, thus less heat with a 4 tie hose, and heat kills compressors. Your typical Schrader value is only rated for about 150 LPM. So the restriction comes from there as well as the single hose for the compressor. For example, I have a 300 LPM compressor. So if I use a single hose with it, I'm "wasting" about 150 LPM, or half of my airflow. Guess what happens when you do that? Yup, you generate heat, which is hard on the compressor, AND effects your duty cycle.
I definitely called out the heat reduction with 4 inflators in the video…
those lock n flate air chucks are awesome. way better than the garbage one that came with my ARB compressor.
I love them and they are really cheap considering all the garbage out there.
Great info. I have one of the NAPA twin compressors similar to the ones Morrflate and a couple other companies sell. I only air one tire at a time and I always finish before the guys with the quad setups. I was in the process of switching tire carriers and went trail riding without a spare with a group. I have a TJ and I carry a TJ to JK wheel adapter for the reason you mentioned. As luck would have it I cut a tire on the trail and I couldn’t find anyone in the group willing to give up their spares. Lol. I now carry a spare all the time. Lol
I thought this video was going to be like a lot of the others and just be dumb, but no you have actual tips that make sense and things I really wouldn't have thought about.
Starting using Thors Lightning cable this year. Cut my air up and down time in half.
Whoa man. Very informative and great video my dude! Much appreciated that you took the time to make this video, so thank you!
I’ve heard the morrflate guy on the snailtrail podcast say schrader valves have a max flow of 1.5 cfm. If you use one of the 4 hose systems, you can shove 6 cfm in there and won’t back pressure a fancy compressor as much……and won’t overheat it as easily
Yup... I called that out in the video... the advantage to those 4 hose systems is the heat reduction.... the other solution is to change your valves to high flow ones from a company like Apex
@@OutdoorAuto my bad then!
Sorry for starting out with the downer comment. This video is awesome. Really appreciate all the excellent info you’ve been putting out there.
Tire cheat 1) best way to protect sidewalls is run the wisest possible tread on the narrowest possible wheel. Such as a 285 on a 7.0"
Yup. I run a 12.5 on a 7.5 and can air down as much as I want.
in my decades of driving very rough trails. i have never damage any of my valve stems.
buy the short rubber ones and they are pretty well safe from rocks. the hard steel ones will get hurt.
and only once i hurt a sidewall. never had a flat off road.
Nate this was really good! Tons of great advice here.
Awesome. I try hard… sometimes it hits… sometimes I miss…
Some good tips in there.
Where abouts is that mini hose reel from? Thanks.
Same question. Only running across huge ones.
I choose to use Makita portable hand held air compressors. They use 18v makita batteries, I have a bunch of those. A battery can inflate three to four tirers. I have 38s on my Jeep. It has a digital read out, and you can set the pressure that you want the pump to stop. I have four of them and that makes the task fairly fast.
WHAT!?!? GENIUS! Thank you very much!!
Your the only other person iv heard of using these makita inflator. I run two of em, 1 for the rear, and 1 for the front, they are great!
@@cooksadventures8748 Great minds think alike. lol The newest model inflates even faster. I still have to use a velcro strap to keep it going though. Wist they would have an auto trigger lock.
@@ryankim3612 It has been working well for me for years now.
@@jcarieri5435 there's a new model?!?! We're still talking 18v right?
Real world experience spoken here. Thank you Nat.
30 mph = 50 kmphr. A Canadian. We had to figure that all out in the 1970's when we went to the metric system. Most towns are 7 miles apart. Your gallon is actually metric, because your quart is a litre. We had to convert the imperial measurement to a metric equivalent.
With the spacers, depending on the state are illegal. Some states the spacer is legal but if the tire extends beyond the fender can make it illegal.
Can I ask what that hose reel system is that you have. Small enough to fit in your hand. I like that and would like to get one. Thanks
Who makes/where can you purchase the mini air hose reel shown in your video. I have seen this question asked multiple times without answer. I am very interested in getting one for my rig.
Apex Compact Air Hose Reel System (CRS) 35ft.
I found it on TrailRecon, but im sure it's available other places.
I don't understand the popularity of those valve core deflators either! I have a set similar to yours, take a lap screwing the on, then a lap screwing them off. Easy peasy.
I use two $50 amazon digital air compressors to air up. One for each side, i'm done in about 10 minutes. They have worked great for almost 5 years now! (Plus i can move them i to whatever rig i'm riding in for the day!)
Cheap double pump compressors from Amazon work great. I use two at the same time, I always get my tires up to street pressure before anyone. But this is from sand pressure at 8psi.
That wheel spacer hack is genius!
I think for the cost of wheel adapters, you could just go to the junkyard and buy a mostly worn out spare tire to put on a rim when out in the trail
The issue for a lot of vehicles is space… most my Jeep friends don’t have room for a spare….
I'm actually heard of someone taking a piece of rubber and just melting it to fill a hole. I've never tried it but I guess if you had to it's worth a shot.
I guess maybe you could carry a bike tube or something like that to have some just rubber material to use.
This is the most useful video overlander can post useful stuff brother 👊
@outdoorauto I would have sold you my 03 Sequoia thats 85% finished for over landing. And its clean 😊. I'm looking forward to see what you do to the Land cruiser
I want to do a sequoia build some day… I pretty much have to build and then sell cause I can’t afford to keep all these… but I really like the sequoias
Concerning spare tires, make sure it's not past the expiration date. Maybe five years ago, I had to use my spare tire. About 1/4 a mile down the road, the side wall blew out. Also having a full size spare means when you replace it, you don't have to order a weird sized donut.
2 or even 3 may fit in the hole. Key is steady pressure. Got it...
Run the ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire. Tighten strap to force sidewalls out toward bead. Remove valve core to slow maximum air flow. Air up until bead seats then reinstall valve core.
Exactly! Ratchet strap helps a lot… probably should have called out pulling the valve stem… we do that every time I. The shop when we mount new tires.
Spare control arm bolts and torque paint!
My jeep lj front axle turned into a 3 link for a little! Found the bolt. But couldnt find the nut. Luckily my buddies tire carrier had a extra bolt i could take that used the same nut.
For mismatched tire sizes, put them on the rear axle and lock your ARB. This will prevent spinning the spider gears, which is what can wear out with mismatched tires.
awesome bro, good advice and great attitude. love your work.
Always carry rated towing and yanking(snap) straps, with shackles, preferably soft shackles. Also, a properly sized, and trusted, jack... Whether Hi-Lift, or any other variation or style.... Just know that it works for your vehicle's height and whatever most likely situations you may encounter.
Good video and info. Cheers from Canada....the land of masters of unit conversions, eh.
Nuances matter. Thanks dude!
Killing it Nate. Great stuff.
Could you look at 110/120V tankless air compressors for hybrids like the new Landcruiser and Tacomas? They should be available way cheaper and more powerful. Maybe even look at cheap harbor freight air compressors and then removing and capping the tank connection?
which air hose reel is that?
Awesome content as usual but applies to all off roaders/ overlanders and van lifers car campers
Great info. Never thought about a hub adapter.
excellent! I learned a few things! Just added a couple things to my Amazon Cart!
The best budget air compressor that I found is the Thor's hammer I love mine it might be Thor's lightning
You know what's great for airing down? Your re-inflation gear. Make a DIY 4 tire inflator, put a gauge and a gate valve on it, deflate all your tires at once and don't bother with the extra gear just to deflate.
I mean, I just use the old ARB ez deflator, like the ones he's saying to not bother with. It's all brass with a steel shaft, and other than some O rings, will probably last me a lifetime. I don't really get the hype for airing down fast, less than 1 minute a tire is pretty okay with me. Plus, it's just part of the process, gets you out of the seat for a little bit.
I just have a small air compressor with small tank that plugs into my FJ’s 400 watt outlet. Cheap and portable. I’ve filled tractor tires with it.
Excellent information I am From United Arab Emirates ur suggestion are extremely helpful ❤❤❤❤
What Off-road tips do you have to share?
Its actually better to mount miss matched spare on front, but only on part-time 4x4. Then You can unlock hubs and avoid overstress on diff. In rear diff will work hard even without LSD. With LSD You can easly "burn it".
Is that mini air reel from Apex? asking for the Discord folks
Thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge!