Thanks for the shout out and helping share my channel...if you havent I comment as I watch the video! Congrats on the prospecting for the club I talk with a few of those guys they all seem really cool
One thing I’m anxious to learn is which holes you can cover up with plate and which ones to make sure you don’t cover up. Nice thing is I also have my car as a reference. But maybe something to keep in mind for your viewers who don’t have a 2nd frame. 👍🏽
Thanks bro. You can do it!! It’s not as hard as it looks. Find yourself a cheap welder if you don’t have one, and just start practicing. You got this! 💪🏻
Good video, you may already know but keep the front belly reinforcement piece as close as possible to the frame. I cut my original frame section out and recessed it a 1/4” and welded it back in. Then put the 3/16 over it. The steering tie rods are super close..🤙🏼
Ton of work going on. That top of the x is tricky. I wished mine was the style that u just put one long flat piece. I hope the casters on the engine stand hold up once it's done.
Definitely lots of work for sure. I agree about the top piece for sure. It’s like 4-5 different angles all at once lol. I’m about 3/4’s through the reinforcements, the casters still roll pretty good. Should make it all the way.
Don’t you just love that plasma cutter?!! Frame is looking awesome! When you get ready for the rear hydraulics not sure what your going to do as far as using “Y” bone but that is something I’m looking forward to watching also on my 62 beings that I’m not going to have a lot of weight in the trunk (2 pumps 4 batteries 12” cylinders in the rear 6” in front) my concern was running skirts so I had the stock rear end shortend $1,600 included rebuilt just an FYI Bay Area cost keep the video coming!
Thanks bro! Plans are to use a CCE ybone with 12’s in the rear. Black magic ybone allows 14” cylinders! Just a fyi. Thanks for the info on the rear end. Take care bro 👊🏻👊🏻
Man you got me really debating on just biting the bullet and pulling the body off my frame lol Only having a one and a half car garage makes me second guess it though. Once again welcome to the club, I am the Detroit Chapter VP.
Thanks brotha. Man, honestly I debated for along time on doing everything in my small garage. But… the saving grace was the frame rotisserie. It aloud me to make the room and roll it outside when I needed extra space. If I could do it over again, I wouldn’t change a thing. 👊🏻
@@gemcitywelding7234 When it comes down to it ill have to make a decision to start on my frame or my body and keep that one in my garage while the other is in the driveway or stored somewhere lol. Plus with the frame on my 66 they replaced the rearend with a camaro which has leaf springs so I also have to fab my lower trailing arm mounts. Its going to be fun lol
Great video! Always good content and good info with your videos! Keep up the good work and congratulations on the prospecting to Dedication CC..can’t wait to see more progress!
Hey this is your Boy Eric from Southern Cali. Wanna say Great Job! I wanna ask you a few quick questions. First, I have a Lincoln 180 HD welder also, but where do you have your wire speed and your heat set at? Second, what is the cost of a sheet of 3/16 where your at? Again...Great Job. By the way...I really admire you and your work. It doesn’t matter what color you are lowriding is for anybody and everybody. For those who ask you why your into lowriding just tell them to low ride my ass! Keep the tradition doing. You Boy Eric from Cali.
What up Eric! That’s a tricky question to answer. I run my machine with the volts/amps maxed out. And my wire speed is set to 3-4. But remember wire size can have an effect on how efficient your machine runs. So try the settings and adjust from there. As far as cost for plate is, I actually buy my metal recycled from my local steel yard. They sell “drops”. Those are half sheets. So 4x4x3 1/6” is about $86 plus tax. So that would be $172 plus tax for a full sheet. Thanks for the compliments. I appreciate the encouragement!! Take care bro 👊🏻👊🏻
One more thing I like to add. It was the Hispanic culture that started the lowriding industry and revolutionized it. They easily could have said the same thing about you and I, but they allowed everyone to enjoy lowriding from all parts of life and I'm very grateful for that. These haters are people (if you wanna call them people) are ones who don't have no car still staying at moms house watching UA-cam all damn day seeing who they can comment on. That's why they have this invention called strokes and heart attacks. Keep up the lowriding culture my bro . Your Boy Eric from Southern Cali...thirteens to the concrete!
Still catching up on your videos, looking super good! I was wondering though, what is your thought on drilling holes in the middle of the plates, to weld them to the frame in the middle too? I've seen this before on other frames and wonder if it would make a differenfe or not.
I think we could agree that it certainly wouldn’t hurt to do that at all. I guess ultimately it comes down to the builder and personal preference. Thanks for the support bro 👊🏻
Looking good brother, keen to see it done. have you considered recessing the engine crossmember so the tie rods can clear n not have a chance to rub when reinforcing?
Hey Teman, I am considering doing that. Lone star lows has a great video on doing that exact thing. I’ll make a decision in a few days. If I decide to do that, I’ll be sure to include it in the next video. 👊🏻
Thank you for the video! Question what welder are you using? I have an Eastwood 135 but it maxes out at 10g with gas. It welds 3/16 but only using flux cored wire. Would you recommend using flux wire. Im looking to reinforce my arches and extend my A arms on a 63. Thank you🙏
Hey bro, that’s a great question! I use a Lincoln 120v machine from Lowe’s. In my humble opinion, proper fit up of the plates will determine how well your machine can weld up the weld joint. I’ll be the first to admit that not every joint is perfect, and will require a multi pass weld to fill the weld joint. I tend to use .025” weld wire in smaller joints, and .030-0.35” in larger joints. So maybe try the larger wire if you can. I’m not a huge fan of flux core for this application because you’ll need to make sure the weld joint is very clean after every pass. No slag inclusions whatsoever. That’s very important. If you’re proficient with flux core welding than I say go for it. But, flux core welding for this type of work is not very common. Hope that helps you in making the right choice. Best of luck with your project!
hello I have a couple of question I have a 64 impala I'm gonna restore but wanted to know what gauge metal use when cutting rot out of the frame to replace it and what amp plasma cutter to use to cut the metal would 20 amp be enough ur build is going well keep up the good work
Hey Keith! Great questions. I replaced any and all metal on the frame with 3/16” plate. I’ve seen guys use 1/8-1/4” plate. Just depends on what your plans are for your build. My plasma is capable of 20-60 amps of cutting. Everything on this build was cut on 120v with a 20 amp outlet. It’s not the best, but it’s what I have available in my garage. A 240v outlet would be ideal but not 100% necessary. Thanks for watching the channel and supporting the show. Best of luck with your project!
I want to do my 86 Cutlass frame. I have done a lot of car work/removed motors and learned how to weld but never went that far. I’m struggling with doing this myself or paying. Do you recommend this for a beginner after doing it? How do you know where the motor mount go after reinforcing the belly and covering the mount holes?
So that’s a great question. My best advice would be to use as many C clamps as possible. Try to remember once you get the plates heat up from the welding, they will become quite malleable. If you’re using 3/16 steel plate, you shouldn’t experience very much warpage if any at all. Tack your plates, roughly about every 6 inches. Run your tac’s about a half inch long. Hope that helps and answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏻👊🏻
Also, remember when the plates become mailable You can use a small 5 pound hammer or any hammer available to help flatten the plates at the weld joint. Just make sure you “strike while the iron is hot”. Hope that helps best of luck with your project.
If installing hydraulics of any kind, I would always recommend reinforcement in the stress points. If cutting anything that has a factory weld seem/joint, absolutely plate over it. Of course that’s just my humble opinion. Thanks for watching, take care bro 👊🏻👊🏻
James is correct. I did a two-part video earlier in my channel that explains how to build it. You can buy a set up similar to the one I have. It will cost you about $1500 or you can build the one like I have for less than $100. Hope that helps.
I will admit, part of the fun of doing projects like this for me is buying new tools.
I hear ya. Cheers!👍🏽
Thanks for the shout out and helping share my channel...if you havent I comment as I watch the video! Congrats on the prospecting for the club I talk with a few of those guys they all seem really cool
You make this look way too easy!!!!
Well done! I'm VERY impressed. Your metal fab work is art.
Thank you Evan. I appreciate the kind words 👊🏻👊🏻
One thing I’m anxious to learn is which holes you can cover up with plate and which ones to make sure you don’t cover up. Nice thing is I also have my car as a reference. But maybe something to keep in mind for your viewers who don’t have a 2nd frame. 👍🏽
Keep up the good work brother and thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you bro ! 👊🏻👊🏻
Man you really know your game! I wish I could do what you know! Nice an clean!
Thanks bro. You can do it!! It’s not as hard as it looks. Find yourself a cheap welder if you don’t have one, and just start practicing. You got this! 💪🏻
You make it look easy buddy! 💪💪💪🙌🙌🙌🙌
🙌🏻🙌🏻👊🏻👊🏻💪🏻
Good video, you may already know but keep the front belly reinforcement piece as close as possible to the frame. I cut my original frame section out and recessed it a 1/4” and welded it back in. Then put the 3/16 over it. The steering tie rods are super close..🤙🏼
Yes sir, that’s the plan. Thanks for the heads up though! 👊🏻👊🏻
Ton of work going on. That top of the x is tricky. I wished mine was the style that u just put one long flat piece. I hope the casters on the engine stand hold up once it's done.
Definitely lots of work for sure. I agree about the top piece for sure. It’s like 4-5 different angles all at once lol. I’m about 3/4’s through the reinforcements, the casters still roll pretty good. Should make it all the way.
Don’t you just love that plasma cutter?!! Frame is looking awesome! When you get ready for the rear hydraulics not sure what your going to do as far as using “Y” bone but that is something I’m looking forward to watching also on my 62 beings that I’m not going to have a lot of weight in the trunk (2 pumps 4 batteries 12” cylinders in the rear 6” in front) my concern was running skirts so I had the stock rear end shortend $1,600 included rebuilt just an FYI Bay Area cost keep the video coming!
Thanks bro! Plans are to use a CCE ybone with 12’s in the rear. Black magic ybone allows 14” cylinders! Just a fyi. Thanks for the info on the rear end. Take care bro 👊🏻👊🏻
Man you got me really debating on just biting the bullet and pulling the body off my frame lol Only having a one and a half car garage makes me second guess it though. Once again welcome to the club, I am the Detroit Chapter VP.
Thanks brotha. Man, honestly I debated for along time on doing everything in my small garage. But… the saving grace was the frame rotisserie. It aloud me to make the room and roll it outside when I needed extra space. If I could do it over again, I wouldn’t change a thing. 👊🏻
@@gemcitywelding7234 When it comes down to it ill have to make a decision to start on my frame or my body and keep that one in my garage while the other is in the driveway or stored somewhere lol. Plus with the frame on my 66 they replaced the rearend with a camaro which has leaf springs so I also have to fab my lower trailing arm mounts. Its going to be fun lol
@@BeLowCreations wow! That is gonna be a lot of fun 😅. You can do it!
Keep up the great work
Thank you!
Great video! Always good content and good info with your videos! Keep up the good work and congratulations on the prospecting to Dedication CC..can’t wait to see more progress!
Thank you!!! 👊🏻
Dig the video you doing some nice work never knew about the gta radio stations I will definitely be checking that out! Keep up the good work
Thanks bro! 👊🏻👊🏻
Just saw your channel , keep.posting videos like this man... 💯🔥 jzst subbed ! Learning from your videos!
Thanks man! I appreciate it.
Hey this is your Boy Eric from Southern Cali. Wanna say Great Job! I wanna ask you a few quick questions. First, I have a Lincoln 180 HD welder also, but where do you have your wire speed and your heat set at? Second, what is the cost of a sheet of 3/16 where your at? Again...Great Job. By the way...I really admire you and your work. It doesn’t matter what color you are lowriding is for anybody and everybody. For those who ask you why your into lowriding just tell them to low ride my ass! Keep the tradition doing. You Boy Eric from Cali.
What up Eric! That’s a tricky question to answer. I run my machine with the volts/amps maxed out. And my wire speed is set to 3-4. But remember wire size can have an effect on how efficient your machine runs. So try the settings and adjust from there. As far as cost for plate is, I actually buy my metal recycled from my local steel yard. They sell “drops”. Those are half sheets. So 4x4x3 1/6” is about $86 plus tax. So that would be $172 plus tax for a full sheet. Thanks for the compliments. I appreciate the encouragement!! Take care bro 👊🏻👊🏻
I hope nobody is on his case for being into the lowrider game being white.. Us white folk put the same blood sweat and tears into this as anyone else.
I totally agree!
One more thing I like to add. It was the Hispanic culture that started the lowriding industry and revolutionized it. They easily could have said the same thing about you and I, but they allowed everyone to enjoy lowriding from all parts of life and I'm very grateful for that. These haters are people (if you wanna call them people) are ones who don't have no car still staying at moms house watching UA-cam all damn day seeing who they can comment on. That's why they have this invention called strokes and heart attacks. Keep up the lowriding culture my bro . Your Boy Eric from Southern Cali...thirteens to the concrete!
I think that pattern looks pretty good bro
Thanks bro 👊🏻👊🏻
🏁👍
🙌🏻
Be sure to use weldable primer between the layers of metal to stop corrosion
Still catching up on your videos, looking super good! I was wondering though, what is your thought on drilling holes in the middle of the plates, to weld them to the frame in the middle too? I've seen this before on other frames and wonder if it would make a differenfe or not.
I think we could agree that it certainly wouldn’t hurt to do that at all. I guess ultimately it comes down to the builder and personal preference. Thanks for the support bro 👊🏻
👍🏽
Looking good brother, keen to see it done.
have you considered recessing the engine crossmember so the tie rods can clear n not have a chance to rub when reinforcing?
Hey Teman, I am considering doing that. Lone star lows has a great video on doing that exact thing. I’ll make a decision in a few days. If I decide to do that, I’ll be sure to include it in the next video. 👊🏻
Time for another frame update 👍🏽
Coming soon bro! 👊🏻
@@gemcitywelding7234 I plan to buy a sedan frame and wrap it and then sell my convertible frame. This series is helpful! 👍🏽
Thank you for the video! Question what welder are you using? I have an Eastwood 135 but it maxes out at 10g with gas. It welds 3/16 but only using flux cored wire. Would you recommend using flux wire. Im looking to reinforce my arches and extend my A arms on a 63. Thank you🙏
Hey bro, that’s a great question! I use a Lincoln 120v machine from Lowe’s. In my humble opinion, proper fit up of the plates will determine how well your machine can weld up the weld joint. I’ll be the first to admit that not every joint is perfect, and will require a multi pass weld to fill the weld joint. I tend to use .025” weld wire in smaller joints, and .030-0.35” in larger joints. So maybe try the larger wire if you can. I’m not a huge fan of flux core for this application because you’ll need to make sure the weld joint is very clean after every pass. No slag inclusions whatsoever. That’s very important. If you’re proficient with flux core welding than I say go for it. But, flux core welding for this type of work is not very common. Hope that helps you in making the right choice. Best of luck with your project!
Thank you! I really appreciate your reply and all your videos. Thank you for sharing all that knowledge! 🙏
hello I have a couple of question I have a 64 impala I'm gonna restore but wanted to know what gauge metal use when cutting rot out of the frame to replace it and what amp plasma cutter to use to cut the metal would 20 amp be enough ur build is going well keep up the good work
Hey Keith! Great questions. I replaced any and all metal on the frame with 3/16” plate. I’ve seen guys use 1/8-1/4” plate. Just depends on what your plans are for your build. My plasma is capable of 20-60 amps of cutting. Everything on this build was cut on 120v with a 20 amp outlet. It’s not the best, but it’s what I have available in my garage. A 240v outlet would be ideal but not 100% necessary. Thanks for watching the channel and supporting the show. Best of luck with your project!
@@gemcitywelding7234 thank u for the info I really appreciate ur help
I want to do my 86 Cutlass frame. I have done a lot of car work/removed motors and learned how to weld but never went that far.
I’m struggling with doing this myself or paying. Do you recommend this for a beginner after doing it? How do you know where the motor mount go after reinforcing the belly and covering the mount holes?
Hey bro, check out my newest video
Tech question.... any tips on avoiding warpage once you connect your tacks?
So that’s a great question. My best advice would be to use as many C clamps as possible. Try to remember once you get the plates heat up from the welding, they will become quite malleable. If you’re using 3/16 steel plate, you shouldn’t experience very much warpage if any at all. Tack your plates, roughly about every 6 inches. Run your tac’s about a half inch long. Hope that helps and answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏻👊🏻
Also, remember when the plates become mailable You can use a small 5 pound hammer or any hammer available to help flatten the plates at the weld joint. Just make sure you “strike while the iron is hot”. Hope that helps best of luck with your project.
Right on bro whoops you do it the same way again or would you order like a hoppos lol for $1300 pus shipping?
I’d do it the same way again. Watch the frame wrap finale video and I’ll explain why I would. It’ll make a lot more sense. Thanks for watching. 👊🏻
🥹❤️🔥
Looking good brother!
Thank you 👊🏻👊🏻
Great videos 👍 Do you have to reinforce the belly of the X once you cut it out if your just going to lay and play?
If installing hydraulics of any kind, I would always recommend reinforcement in the stress points. If cutting anything that has a factory weld seem/joint, absolutely plate over it. Of course that’s just my humble opinion. Thanks for watching, take care bro 👊🏻👊🏻
@@gemcitywelding7234 Thank you sir appreciate the info👍
What thickness steel are you using?
Hey bro, I chose 3/16” steel. Some guys use 1/4”. My opinion is to use what’s available in your area for your application. Thanks for the support 👊🏻
hey man love to content but that elevator music is killing me dude
Same. Love his content. It's fantastic, just that music. I get it.. the music drowns out other background noises etc.
It’s mostly a copy write issue. I’ll see what I can do about changing it up!
what brand of plasma cutter do you have ?
JEGS versa cut 40. I have a full review video on my channel.
Question, where can I get a cart like that for my frame?
He has a video where he built the frame rotisserie. Check out his other videos
James is correct. I did a two-part video earlier in my channel that explains how to build it. You can buy a set up similar to the one I have. It will cost you about $1500 or you can build the one like I have for less than $100. Hope that helps.
What plasma cutter is that can you send the link
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81545/10002/-1
Thanks for the link appreciate it. Like that video also the frame wrap is looking good
How much all together have you spent on metal you think so fair
New video coming soon. I’ll explain all that. 👊🏻
You are not Mexican!! You have no business with lowriders hombre.