@@leansurvey8212 I ask your permission, dear, to provide a translated explanation in Arabic for this video on my channel so that everyone can benefit, God willing. Thank you very much.
You're video might be the reason I get really good at this. Thank you so much my dude! Working out mostly in downtown Atlanta way up at the tops of new c0nstructions. Laying out for plumbing mostly. Thanks again this explains it better than anything I've ever seen and I appreciate this information so much.
I notice most people want to make up most of their ‘plumb’ work with the tribrach, which throws the instrument back out of level instead of taking just a few more seconds with the legs which barely affect your ability to stay right over the point. I’m glad its working for you!
Great video. I use basically the same steps but one thing I do different is that when I set up my tripod, I level the plate with my torpedo level. That way I know my plate is level over my control point. Then I mount my total station into the tripod. I level the total station rough bubble to the plate.
I discovered these videos today. I'm a former ironworker and a new surveyor. Awesome content. I would like to see a video covering the toolboxes on your work truck and also one on equipment maintenance. Keep up the great work
A level loop basics video is up now, are there other types of vertical control videos you'd like to see, like transferring elevations through a multi floor building, etc.? Thanks for your feedback!
during rod data collecting ,there is change in direction means we start from begining ,but at the midle when we see the map of data ,change its direction.............
This is the Sokkia IM101. It’s accuracies and navigation though menus are both excellent. However, the angle turning methods described in other videos are applicable for any setup.
Turn the foot screw until the station flops directly toward the prism then adjust the barrel to site the bottom of the rod. After that just scroll up and shoot. Easy peazy.
I actually got my start at a technical college and setting up the instrument on a slope was one of the exercises included in their “field Final’. Almost an impossibility at the “new kid” level, truly!
The method in this video works, but takes too long (IMHO) because lots of surveyors want to utilize the optical plummet of an instrument before it is leveled true. First, this video shows a "wide enough" stance, where I see a lot of people who set up this way end up with the tripod base that is very narrow. By "this way" I am referring to a setup procedure that includes at some point, looking thru an optical plummet that is not plumb/level. Those narrow set ups (the one in this video not included, it is fine) can "blow over" especially working along an interstate highway and set up in the breakdown lane on asphalt. So, first, I suggest a setup with the height pretty much as in this video (relative to your own eye height and the terrain) but the legs even further apart for a wider stance (video setup is very good, but wider is even better). There is no reason (95% of situations) to not have a maximally stable stance. That being said, the following method will get you set up in sixty seconds or less nine times out of ten. This setup time begins only when you are more or less at or very near the setup point. 1. Extend a leg to your preferred length (I suggest a couple tenths longer than was done in this vid, (becuz even more stability), and then drop the other two legs to the same length. 2. Place the tripod somewhere and attach your instrument to it (this step is only needed at your first setup, but every setup if you box your instrument between setups). I transport my instrument between setups on its tripod, and I carry the assembly upright, so as not to stress the total stations structural parts. 3. Place one leg an appropriate (educated guess) distance from the setup point, and take the other two legs in your hands about midway down each leg. Open the legs so that they are splayed to either side of you, in more or less the desired angle with the tripod head ROUGHLY eyeballed as level. 4. By eye, imagine a plumb line passing through the instrument, and move yourself and the two loose legs so that imagined plumb line also passes through the leg that is touching the ground AND the setup point. That is, you are moving the two loose legs, and your head and body and the instrument, so that your eye, the opposite fixed leg and the instrument are all somewhere on that imagined plumb line that also passes thru the setup point. 5. Set down the two legs you were holding and moving, taking care to keep the tripod head roughly level (roughly, don't bother looking at the bubbles). 6. With all three legs on the ground walk around the setup a third of the way, and note that, from this new vantage point between a different pair of legs, an imaginary plumb line passing thru the opposite leg and the instrument DOES NOT pass thru the setup point (unless you got lucky). 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. You should notice that each time you do steps 4 and 5, the tripod head will get closer and closer to being roughly over the setup point. Almost always, two to three iterations is all you need to get the tripod head "close enough" so that the legs need not be shifted further. 7. Use your body weight to firmly plant all three legs, exactly as shown in this video 8. Take your plumb bob/gammon reel (if you have one) and hold it under the center of the tripod, and note where the tripod head center is relative to the setup point. Put another way, which way does the tripod head need to go to be over the point? DO NOT look thru the optical plummet at this point. DO NOT use the laser dot at this point if you have one. Those things used at this point will throw you off, because the instrument hasn't been leveled yet. If you don't have a plumb bob, just skip this step. If you do have a plumb bob, move the tripod head closer over the point by slightly shortening and/or lengthening one or two of the legs. This video shows explains that part very well. The goal is to get the tripod head within a tenth of a foot (30mm) of its final location. If you skip this step, you may or may not need to shorten or lengthen a leg during the next step 9. Level the instrument using the three leveling screws, and ONLY THEN look thru the optical plummet. Slide the instrument across the tripod head so that it is directly over the point. (or shorten/lengthen legs and then do that) 10. Check that you are still level after shifting the instrument position on the tripod. If not level, repeat step 9. 11. Rotate the optical plummet to the opposite side of the instrument, recheck the level bubbles and then the optical plummet. Problems then? Your instrument is out of adjustment. Everything checks? Your setup is done. IMPORTANT NOTE: One advantage of this system is the time saved by not having to constantly keep the tripod head approximately level so that you can kinda sorta rely on the optical plummet or laser. I only need to keep the head level enough so that the instrument can eventually be leveled. This procedure is really hard to explain in text form, but easy to teach in person. It is VERY fast, even on a slope or when setting up over a "tall point" (something like a nail in a tallish tree stump). Why did I bother to type this up? I get very frustrated watching people set up using optical plummets or laser dots that aren't plumb, and taking five or six minutes to set up a total station. Finally, it took me a very long time to type this, but this procedure is very fast. It makes a huge difference if you have a lot of setups, and doesn't matter if you set up very few times per day. I hope someone finds this rant useful......
@@johnwetzel5248 Just to clarify, shortening and lengthening the legs changes the position of the plummet over the point VERY mildly. What moves it the most drastically is adjusting the 3 set screws on the tribrach. For that reason, in my own opinion, also humble, is the plummet is way faster and is one movement versus eyeballing plumb several times from multiple angles and then busting out a plumb bob to hang from 5’ high. BUT.. what are “LEAN” concepts anyway. Consistent improvement, updating methods when better ones are present, streamlining systems. If you personally are lightening fast through process practice and you’re examining wasted movement so that you can eliminate it- I’m buying what you’re selling all day long! Side note: if you rotate your total station 90 degrees and the plummet has moved its position it’s time to go get it calibrated. A bad plummet IS a time waster. Tell the repair technician the exact issue by the way, not all technicians are created equal and not all review/adjust the plummet in a standard calibration. Thanks for sharing John. Good data.
@@leansurvey8212 thanks for your comment! My main reason for typing all that stuff is that almost everyone uses some variation of the method you describe, in which a key element includes looking thru an optical plummet that is not completely plumb, but also involves trying to hold two legs in the air while looking thru the plummet AND while trying to keep the tripod head (and instrument) as close to plumb as possible, but without looking at any bubbles because you are looking thru the plummet. And, almost universally, that element of the procedure takes time and (to me) seems fiddly. It is trying to do three things well at the same time! However, in most situations and for most people, it doesn't matter if the setup takes five minutes. I would also say that once I use my method to get close enough to plant the legs, any remaining adjustments can be made by adjusting the lengths of the individual legs even if the tripod head needs to move a lot (let's say two tenths, which almost never happens to me becuz experience!). I think when you are talking about those adjustments moving the point "mildly", that is just what appears to be happening, because shorting or lengthening a leg while looking thru an unplumbed plummet shows little movement, even though the head has actually moved a lot. Then, of course adjusting the leveling screws moves the plummet ring/crosshairs a lot, because you weren't actually as close to the point as the unplumb plummet told you you were. In my method, after I shorten or lengthen legs to get "plumb bob close", I don't look thru the plummet. Instead I level the gun, and THEN look thru the now truly plumb plummet. I am always within two or three hundredths, and I am always close enough to slide the gun over the point. Finally, you spoke of rotating your plummet 90 degrees. The advantage of rotating it 180 degrees is that it shows the full/maximum error. If you are on the point, and rotate 180 and you are two hundredths off, your plummet is one hundredth off exactly. If you rotate 90 degrees as you suggest, you can tell something is off, but you don't know the full amount of the error. Knowing the full error allows you to correct your optical plummet in the field. From the 180 position, you adjust the plummet so that the ring (or crosshair) moves halfway back to what you saw at zero degrees. You might have to do this twice to get the plummet perfect, but you don't need a repair tech. All that said, I want to thank you for taking the time to make your excellent videos and trying to improve everyone's "skills" toolbox. You are a great instructor, and also understand how to make good instructional videos. If folks reading this try my method, they will find that it is not just quick, but less stressful, because the only time you look thru the plummet is when you are almost done, and you are always only a couple of hundredths off, within sliding distance, the gun being already leveled. I just realized as I typed this, exactly why I like my method. It turns out that I am only looking thru my plummet when all three legs are planted and at their final length. So I never need to do the "hold two legs off the ground while looking thru the plummet while also keeping the tripod top level enough then lower the legs while not moving the tripod head" dance. That is the thing I see that looks awkward and inefficient to me, that "dance". That dance also encourages those narrow unstable setups, which I see everywhere.
Man... never ever ever take your hand off the handle until its threaded. If you think holding the tribrach is good enough, I've got construction sites that beg to differ.
@@sicsempertyrannis1849 I hope you get your legs and the tripod plate close to level before you set an instrument on there. What on your site is effecting the plate more that you and the tripod legs? Hand on the handle till the thread is started (I’d never tip the instrument to eyeball that I’m threading properly from under the plate by holding the tribrach only, in fact it would be quite difficult to tilt it that way.) I specifically switch to holding the tribrach once threading has started to ensure the instrument doesn’t rotate while I’m threading. This plate is round so rotation isn’t thaaaat big deal, but some plates are triangular and rotation during threading would matter in keeping the tribrach feet on the plate. Additionally, I usually have a plan for where I want the optical plummet (if the instrument has one) and I wouldn’t’t like that to rotate away from me either. Hence my method, also field tested for the last 25 years.
Shouldn't step in the legs AFTER the instrument is on the tripod. The 5/8 threads and tribrach aren't designed to be jarred like that. Ask yourself, how many times have you stepped in one of the feet in soil, and it penetrates some firm crust and then all of a sudden goes into some softer material before hitting something hard and it abruptly stops? You don't want that type of energy transferred to the tribrach and total station.
@@michaelhoot9759 I appreciate the push back as always, though I may have to kindly disagree on this point. Is this a comment from the operators manual, I don’t believe I’ve come across this recommendation in print anywhere. If the legs are stepped in first, how would you recommend centering the top plate of the tripod and instrument over the point without the use of the optical plummet? Many beginners and even some pros don’t get close enough with the initial placement of the tripod to be able to make up the positional difference using only the tribrach. Additionally, speaking of energy transfer- there is likely more jarring taking place moving and transporting the instrument in its own box than there is stepping in a tripod leg. I agree that the footscrews of the tribrach can be delicate, and so carrying the instrument horizontally over your shoulder would put sustained stress and the full weight of the theodolite on the footscrews- that’s an easy “no-no” but the 3 point steel on steel connection at the 5/8” set screw is pretty robust. Not really seeing that as a design weak point in this case. Please feel free to continue the dialog (sincerely) or comment wherever you see room for approval. I welcome other points of view and hope you do as well.
@@zacharyhickerson5391 I really wanted to catch some of the tiny best practice moments like where to stand, where to your hands go- not just the “how to”. Definitely a little more wordy as a result but thanks for your patience! 😅
@@dbcooper1509 you’re not kidding. You can find tribrachs anywhere from $70 or $250 and there is a huge difference in quality based on construction value. Let’s hope the brand names stick to quality versus relying on their namesake to carry the value.
That was the best explanation I have ever heard or seen. You are a great teacher!
Thank you! Really trying to teach using what you'll experience in the field, not just talk about it! Much appreciated Tambaurora!
Very freking best video on this subject in entire internet. Congrats! You've made it!
Thanks again!
As a Civil Engineer student, I approve this video.
A very simplified and clear explanation of the Total Station device, well done ❤
Thank you so much!
@@leansurvey8212 I ask your permission, dear, to provide a translated explanation in Arabic for this video on my channel so that everyone can benefit, God willing. Thank you very much.
@@surveydoctor Of course, my hope is always that the industry benefits, not just my channel! Permission granted.
Thanks for your good work, how much does the machine cost, I'm a Ugandan
Very meticulously presented, would not be wrong if I say your video is definitely the finest explanation on this topic so far.
What a great compliment, thank you.
That’s crazy he was able to get his jewelry in the demonstration of the dial moments. Very nice jewelry and very nice explanation sir!
You're video might be the reason I get really good at this. Thank you so much my dude! Working out mostly in downtown Atlanta way up at the tops of new c0nstructions. Laying out for plumbing mostly. Thanks again this explains it better than anything I've ever seen and I appreciate this information so much.
I notice most people want to make up most of their ‘plumb’ work with the tribrach, which throws the instrument back out of level instead of taking just a few more seconds with the legs which barely affect your ability to stay right over the point. I’m glad its working for you!
I love it when I don't learn any single new thing. That said,... a perfect explanation.
Watching your video's from Mauritius and you are just simply perfect. Clear and easy to understand explanation. Top
Awesome i just began surveying this was a lot of help.
Clear and easy to understand explanation.
thank u very much for doing exactly what I was looking for
Great explanation and great production level!
Excellent demonstration.
Great video. I use basically the same steps but one thing I do different is that when I set up my tripod, I level the plate with my torpedo level. That way I know my plate is level over my control point. Then I mount my total station into the tripod. I level the total station rough bubble to the plate.
I’m having trouble. My station setup is being thrown off with the horizontal distance being -3 after measuring my back sight
It sounds like your prism so start is possibly setup incorrectly. Have you reviewed those settings?
Thanks to you I was able to be efficient on the field...
thorrough explination well done brother
Very good / clear video!
Excellent video!!!
I discovered these videos today. I'm a former ironworker and a new surveyor. Awesome content.
I would like to see a video covering the toolboxes on your work truck and also one on equipment maintenance.
Keep up the great work
Thank you much!
Well elaborated.
Unbelievable explanation!
Thank you so much!
Very Informative ❤
I'll be using this for a guestlecture at a dutch college as surveyor, translating what is meaningfull for the students.
Thank you! I also teach Construction Survey at ASU- if there is more data you’d like or examples, let me know!
Very good 👍 👏
I am new i want to lean survey, thank you for the video boss
You are most welcome!
Thank you so much for this!
in using ts in backsighting station for prepering topo suvey can you help me whats the procedure or steps sir/ma'am?
well explained, this video has really help
Fabulous and mind blowing
Thank you!
very clear instruction....
R u planning any content regarding control traversing or looping of vertical control?
A level loop basics video is up now, are there other types of vertical control videos you'd like to see, like transferring elevations through a multi floor building, etc.? Thanks for your feedback!
Please good afternoon, I'm from Ghana 🇬🇭,i just complete S.H.S And i want to learn this machine what should I do please
Go to knust study geometric engineering or go to Ghana survey school and get a certificate or diploma all the best
@@mjc9388You meant Geomatic Engineering
You can apply to a surveying firm for internship.
Amazing
this is nice vedio ,in what case during sit work the data is inverted???????
Are you able to explain your question in a little more detail? I’d love to help!
during rod data collecting ,there is change in direction means we start from begining ,but at the midle when we see the map of data ,change its direction.............
Great info!!!!
Your the best!
Which instrument are you using?
This is the Sokia IM-100, a 1 second total station.
Why does no one teach about to look through the screw to put the tripod right over the spot befort mount the total station?
One cannot rely on optical plumbing as there may disturbance in prism.
Thanks Bro. Pls upload more videos on LAYOUT
Which aspect of layout, any specifics my friend? Thank you for the support!
Setting out of grid lines
Hello Brandon...what model total station are you using ?
This is the Sokkia IM101. It’s accuracies and navigation though menus are both excellent. However, the angle turning methods described in other videos are applicable for any setup.
We built high risers so anything under .002 was good enough except embeds or anything like that
THANK YOU
Nice
Thanks sir
I was taught to zero the digital level out so there will be no error when back sighting
next video of this pls
Awesome video!
👍
How to actual target prisom,
Turn the foot screw until the station flops directly toward the prism then adjust the barrel to site the bottom of the rod. After that just scroll up and shoot. Easy peazy.
👌🏻
best
You know that you’ve mastered equipment setup when you can do this quickly on a soft dirt slope. Then your driving in the fast lane.
I actually got my start at a technical college and setting up the instrument on a slope was one of the exercises included in their “field Final’. Almost an impossibility at the “new kid” level, truly!
The method in this video works, but takes too long (IMHO) because lots of surveyors want to utilize the optical plummet of an instrument before it is leveled true. First, this video shows a "wide enough" stance, where I see a lot of people who set up this way end up with the tripod base that is very narrow. By "this way" I am referring to a setup procedure that includes at some point, looking thru an optical plummet that is not plumb/level. Those narrow set ups (the one in this video not included, it is fine) can "blow over" especially working along an interstate highway and set up in the breakdown lane on asphalt. So, first, I suggest a setup with the height pretty much as in this video (relative to your own eye height and the terrain) but the legs even further apart for a wider stance (video setup is very good, but wider is even better). There is no reason (95% of situations) to not have a maximally stable stance. That being said, the following method will get you set up in sixty seconds or less nine times out of ten. This setup time begins only when you are more or less at or very near the setup point. 1. Extend a leg to your preferred length (I suggest a couple tenths longer than was done in this vid, (becuz even more stability), and then drop the other two legs to the same length. 2. Place the tripod somewhere and attach your instrument to it (this step is only needed at your first setup, but every setup if you box your instrument between setups). I transport my instrument between setups on its tripod, and I carry the assembly upright, so as not to stress the total stations structural parts. 3. Place one leg an appropriate (educated guess) distance from the setup point, and take the other two legs in your hands about midway down each leg. Open the legs so that they are splayed to either side of you, in more or less the desired angle with the tripod head ROUGHLY eyeballed as level. 4. By eye, imagine a plumb line passing through the instrument, and move yourself and the two loose legs so that imagined plumb line also passes through the leg that is touching the ground AND the setup point. That is, you are moving the two loose legs, and your head and body and the instrument, so that your eye, the opposite fixed leg and the instrument are all somewhere on that imagined plumb line that also passes thru the setup point. 5. Set down the two legs you were holding and moving, taking care to keep the tripod head roughly level (roughly, don't bother looking at the bubbles). 6. With all three legs on the ground walk around the setup a third of the way, and note that, from this new vantage point between a different pair of legs, an imaginary plumb line passing thru the opposite leg and the instrument DOES NOT pass thru the setup point (unless you got lucky). 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. You should notice that each time you do steps 4 and 5, the tripod head will get closer and closer to being roughly over the setup point. Almost always, two to three iterations is all you need to get the tripod head "close enough" so that the legs need not be shifted further. 7. Use your body weight to firmly plant all three legs, exactly as shown in this video 8. Take your plumb bob/gammon reel (if you have one) and hold it under the center of the tripod, and note where the tripod head center is relative to the setup point. Put another way, which way does the tripod head need to go to be over the point? DO NOT look thru the optical plummet at this point. DO NOT use the laser dot at this point if you have one. Those things used at this point will throw you off, because the instrument hasn't been leveled yet. If you don't have a plumb bob, just skip this step. If you do have a plumb bob, move the tripod head closer over the point by slightly shortening and/or lengthening one or two of the legs. This video shows explains that part very well. The goal is to get the tripod head within a tenth of a foot (30mm) of its final location. If you skip this step, you may or may not need to shorten or lengthen a leg during the next step 9. Level the instrument using the three leveling screws, and ONLY THEN look thru the optical plummet. Slide the instrument across the tripod head so that it is directly over the point. (or shorten/lengthen legs and then do that) 10. Check that you are still level after shifting the instrument position on the tripod. If not level, repeat step 9. 11. Rotate the optical plummet to the opposite side of the instrument, recheck the level bubbles and then the optical plummet. Problems then? Your instrument is out of adjustment. Everything checks? Your setup is done. IMPORTANT NOTE: One advantage of this system is the time saved by not having to constantly keep the tripod head approximately level so that you can kinda sorta rely on the optical plummet or laser. I only need to keep the head level enough so that the instrument can eventually be leveled. This procedure is really hard to explain in text form, but easy to teach in person. It is VERY fast, even on a slope or when setting up over a "tall point" (something like a nail in a tallish tree stump). Why did I bother to type this up? I get very frustrated watching people set up using optical plummets or laser dots that aren't plumb, and taking five or six minutes to set up a total station. Finally, it took me a very long time to type this, but this procedure is very fast. It makes a huge difference if you have a lot of setups, and doesn't matter if you set up very few times per day. I hope someone finds this rant useful......
@@johnwetzel5248 Just to clarify, shortening and lengthening the legs changes the position of the plummet over the point VERY mildly. What moves it the most drastically is adjusting the 3 set screws on the tribrach. For that reason, in my own opinion, also humble, is the plummet is way faster and is one movement versus eyeballing plumb several times from multiple angles and then busting out a plumb bob to hang from 5’ high. BUT.. what are “LEAN” concepts anyway. Consistent improvement, updating methods when better ones are present, streamlining systems. If you personally are lightening fast through process practice and you’re examining wasted movement so that you can eliminate it- I’m buying what you’re selling all day long! Side note: if you rotate your total station 90 degrees and the plummet has moved its position it’s time to go get it calibrated. A bad plummet IS a time waster. Tell the repair technician the exact issue by the way, not all technicians are created equal and not all review/adjust the plummet in a standard calibration. Thanks for sharing John. Good data.
@@leansurvey8212 thanks for your comment! My main reason for typing all that stuff is that almost everyone uses some variation of the method you describe, in which a key element includes looking thru an optical plummet that is not completely plumb, but also involves trying to hold two legs in the air while looking thru the plummet AND while trying to keep the tripod head (and instrument) as close to plumb as possible, but without looking at any bubbles because you are looking thru the plummet. And, almost universally, that element of the procedure takes time and (to me) seems fiddly. It is trying to do three things well at the same time! However, in most situations and for most people, it doesn't matter if the setup takes five minutes. I would also say that once I use my method to get close enough to plant the legs, any remaining adjustments can be made by adjusting the lengths of the individual legs even if the tripod head needs to move a lot (let's say two tenths, which almost never happens to me becuz experience!). I think when you are talking about those adjustments moving the point "mildly", that is just what appears to be happening, because shorting or lengthening a leg while looking thru an unplumbed plummet shows little movement, even though the head has actually moved a lot. Then, of course adjusting the leveling screws moves the plummet ring/crosshairs a lot, because you weren't actually as close to the point as the unplumb plummet told you you were. In my method, after I shorten or lengthen legs to get "plumb bob close", I don't look thru the plummet. Instead I level the gun, and THEN look thru the now truly plumb plummet. I am always within two or three hundredths, and I am always close enough to slide the gun over the point. Finally, you spoke of rotating your plummet 90 degrees. The advantage of rotating it 180 degrees is that it shows the full/maximum error. If you are on the point, and rotate 180 and you are two hundredths off, your plummet is one hundredth off exactly. If you rotate 90 degrees as you suggest, you can tell something is off, but you don't know the full amount of the error. Knowing the full error allows you to correct your optical plummet in the field. From the 180 position, you adjust the plummet so that the ring (or crosshair) moves halfway back to what you saw at zero degrees. You might have to do this twice to get the plummet perfect, but you don't need a repair tech. All that said, I want to thank you for taking the time to make your excellent videos and trying to improve everyone's "skills" toolbox. You are a great instructor, and also understand how to make good instructional videos. If folks reading this try my method, they will find that it is not just quick, but less stressful, because the only time you look thru the plummet is when you are almost done, and you are always only a couple of hundredths off, within sliding distance, the gun being already leveled. I just realized as I typed this, exactly why I like my method. It turns out that I am only looking thru my plummet when all three legs are planted and at their final length. So I never need to do the "hold two legs off the ground while looking thru the plummet while also keeping the tripod top level enough then lower the legs while not moving the tripod head" dance. That is the thing I see that looks awkward and inefficient to me, that "dance". That dance also encourages those narrow unstable setups, which I see everywhere.
Set your legs before you put the station on
Man... never ever ever take your hand off the handle until its threaded. If you think holding the tribrach is good enough, I've got construction sites that beg to differ.
Amateurs
@@sicsempertyrannis1849 I hope you get your legs and the tripod plate close to level before you set an instrument on there. What on your site is effecting the plate more that you and the tripod legs? Hand on the handle till the thread is started (I’d never tip the instrument to eyeball that I’m threading properly from under the plate by holding the tribrach only, in fact it would be quite difficult to tilt it that way.) I specifically switch to holding the tribrach once threading has started to ensure the instrument doesn’t rotate while I’m threading. This plate is round so rotation isn’t thaaaat big deal, but some plates are triangular and rotation during threading would matter in keeping the tribrach feet on the plate. Additionally, I usually have a plan for where I want the optical plummet (if the instrument has one) and I wouldn’t’t like that to rotate away from me either. Hence my method, also field tested for the last 25 years.
@@ht8286 If you pronounce amateur with a French accent, it almost sounds like a compliment.
Shouldn't step in the legs AFTER the instrument is on the tripod. The 5/8 threads and tribrach aren't designed to be jarred like that.
Ask yourself, how many times have you stepped in one of the feet in soil, and it penetrates some firm crust and then all of a sudden goes into some softer material before hitting something hard and it abruptly stops? You don't want that type of energy transferred to the tribrach and total station.
@@michaelhoot9759 I appreciate the push back as always, though I may have to kindly disagree on this point. Is this a comment from the operators manual, I don’t believe I’ve come across this recommendation in print anywhere. If the legs are stepped in first, how would you recommend centering the top plate of the tripod and instrument over the point without the use of the optical plummet? Many beginners and even some pros don’t get close enough with the initial placement of the tripod to be able to make up the positional difference using only the tribrach. Additionally, speaking of energy transfer- there is likely more jarring taking place moving and transporting the instrument in its own box than there is stepping in a tripod leg. I agree that the footscrews of the tribrach can be delicate, and so carrying the instrument horizontally over your shoulder would put sustained stress and the full weight of the theodolite on the footscrews- that’s an easy “no-no” but the 3 point steel on steel connection at the 5/8” set screw is pretty robust. Not really seeing that as a design weak point in this case. Please feel free to continue the dialog (sincerely) or comment wherever you see room for approval. I welcome other points of view and hope you do as well.
Accurate. But kinda overly explanitory...Nah but you right
@@zacharyhickerson5391 I really wanted to catch some of the tiny best practice moments like where to stand, where to your hands go- not just the “how to”. Definitely a little more wordy as a result but thanks for your patience! 😅
3:45 "Topcon Made in China"?!?!?!!?!? WTF Come on Topcon, Japan Only.
@@dbcooper1509 you’re not kidding. You can find tribrachs anywhere from $70 or $250 and there is a huge difference in quality based on construction value. Let’s hope the brand names stick to quality versus relying on their namesake to carry the value.
really helps 🫡