ECUmaster DET 3 quick install guide and interior re assembled | Toyota Starlet 4efe turbo build.
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Hard wired the ECUmaster Digital ECU Tuner 3+ into the Toyota Starlet EP91 wiring loom, also connected the AEM wideband O2 gauge output to the DET3 for datalogging and tuning purposes. Made a switch to prevent the Toyota ECU making closed loop fuel trim corrections and buttoned up the interior back together. Pumped for the next steps!
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Instagram: @dan91sgarage
Disclaimer: These videos are meant as entertainment only. They are only a vlog of the work I have carried out on my cars and not meant to be instructional in any way! Working on cars can be dangerous and the results can cause harm to yourself, your vehicle and others! Be careful, be safe and only you are responsible for your actions.
#toyotastarlet #aem #ecumaster
Super tidy installation dan a credit to you you have some knowledge are you a mechanic by trade
@Matthew Byrne Thanks mate, I did enjoy the install. I'm a Design and development Engineer by trade. How's the GT?
Looks like a nice simple install of the DET thingy, nice.
Great ! i'm also using the same DET3 (with Fuel Implant) with my Supercharged Mitsubishi colt ! great device !
Right on!
Hi Dan, first of all, hats down to the clean implementation of det3 into the ecu wiring loom, joy to watch.
Also I have a question - why did you put the narrowband signal to the stock ecu on a switch? Are there some circumstances where you need close that switch? or do you keep it open all the time?
Thank you for all the information and know-how about these devices, it does helping out one overwhelmed newbie big time.
If the vehicles Narrow band O2 signal is left connected (switched on in my case ) the Toyota ECU will be monitoring the exhaust gasses when running in closed loop (idle and cruise/light load). It can then apply short and long term fuel trims to that area of its map and return fuelling to factory targets essentially undoing the changes in the det3.
The reason I chose a switch to be able to turn it back on is to temporarily improve emissions without remapping the det3, some cars will throw a CEL for no NBO2 signal (not the Starlet thankfully) which might need to be turned off at times and mainly as an experiment to see exactly how bad it would be!
On my setup, with the NBO2 switched on it would unfortunately lean the mixture down to unsafe levels as the engine was transitioning from vacuum to boost and onwards. It was a constant struggle to tune fuel with it turned on. It was therefore switched off almost all the time.
Obviously you will need an aftermarket wide band o2 sensor and gauge (hooked to det3) for tuning and datalogging.
Now I get it! thank you for detailed explanation, this really cleared a lot of confusion in my head.
I am working with naturally aspirated 2.0 litre DOHC 8V ford, bored out to 2.3 litre. I got it running quite nicely on standard ford ECCIV ecu with narrowband O2 and with bigger injectors. However, when i fitted this engine with 272/272 cams, stock ecu went bananas. (I naively hoped that stock ecu corrections would work in my favor, but nope.) So I went for this piggyback, since this should be more than capable enough for what I need.
SInce this fail I got myself wideband O2 with gauge, Det3 and all the bits and pieces I need.
Now I'd love to use det3 as a piggyback and keep the ECCIV the hard work of driving the injectors, however, this will depend on how lucky I'll be with ECCIV response to the absence of narrowband O2 signal. If it goes bonkers again, I may go the route of fuel implant mode.
Thank you once again, I am now going though your entire starlet build saga and Its awesome :-)
Hi, do i need to wire stock map sensor if using the in-built one? Thanks
So it is yes or no? Lol thanks
You still have to cut the wire and connect the Toyota ecu side to analogue out of det 3+, but you don't have to connect the 1 bar map sensor wire to analogue in #1 on the det 3+ if you're using the in built 4 bar when going turbo.
Was waiting for this one :) Thanks for the great content Dan :) really nice video 😁
Thanks friend. 👍
Hello sir,.can I ask a question about starlet 97 model.bcuz my aircon, condenser fan and radiator fan not working.i check fuse, relay ,ect and pressure switch are all good.do you have any idea about this problem
Sorry, I have never had a Starlet with air conditioning. The radiator fan sensor/switch is the green coloured sensor in the metal cap that covers the thermostat under the distributor. Could be a faulty sensor / broken wire here.
Mate your a class act
Nice channel :) On the back of watching these videos im fitting the det3 to a e11 rolla with 4efe. Looking at the factory electrical wiring diagram supplement for the ecu it has 2 igt wires. igt1 on pin 6 (same as starlet) igt2 on pin 19 also igf on pin 8, there all on the large plug. So yeah im wondering how you connect the det3 to the igt1 and igt2 as det3 only has 1 ignition in and out. Any info appreciated.
Thanks. Yes gen 3 4efe in the e11 corolla is wasted spark with conventional crank trigger setup. I haven't done it myself, but I think there are 2 options. Either use the crank trigger sensor signal, or if you look at the det 3 software there is an option in ignition configuration to "Retard two ignition module signals" in the pull down menu. "This ignition mode is suitable for retarding two ignition module signals. Using this mode freqency input/output is used for second signal. All freqency functions are disable." I think this option is for 2 coil setups, there is no listing/description for it in the det 3 instructions though so it must be a newer feature. The IGF signal is for feedback to Toyota ECU for check engine/trouble codes, it is useless to control anything so can be ignored. If you're going with the second option, please double check with ecumaster regarding its intended use. And when installed feedback to this comment will help others too. 😉
Ok so ive had a quick reply from Ecu masters. So there saying that they have no experiance with this specific engine so they dont have a prescise solution. But they go on to say the det3 has the capability to drive 2 seperate ignition modules. They have suplied a causionary wiring diagrm which is used with the mx-5 engine which runs 2 ignition modules.
Unfortunatly im unable to post up any diagram so ill have to right it up.
So ill start with det3 pin connection then into either ignition, ecu or maf.
det3 no. 1 +12v to ecu +12v
det3 no.3 pullup connects to det3 no.9 to ecu ign. module output 1
det3 no.6 ignition out to ignition module 1
det3 no.7 frequency out to ignition module 2
det3 no.8 connects to det3 no.10 frequency in to ecu ignition module output 2
det3 no.11 ground to ecu ground
det3 no13 analog in no.1 to maf sensor
det3 no.17 analog out to ecu maf sensor
happy to ping diagram, just message
@@dj-cor659 Good job. Thanks for taking the time to post. The corolla has a 1 bar map sensor, if you are going turbo you will be using the det 3+ internal map sensor for load and modify fuelling. 👍
@@dan91sgarage Yes ive ordered the 4 bar version. Will trawl the mx5 forums to see how they faired with the above set up. When installed and running will update. Thanks for your input 👍
More info from ECU Master
How to connect DET3 to MX5 1.6 - 1.8 engine with two ignition modules.
Warning:
Before connecting DET3 to the ECU read this manual carefully, otherwise You can damage ignition coils or ECU.
DET3 allow retard ignition angle, by delaying coil charge and spark release signal from ECU to ignition module. Each channel from ECU is connected to DET3 input, and modified signal is send from DET3 to ignition module in coils.
When signal from ECU is grounded (falling edge), coil is charged, and spark released when signal is returning from ground to 12V (rising edge). DET3 is using one frequency output to generate signal. Default settings in DET3 for frequency out is low side signal (ground). This will cause coil charge just after power supply is applied to ECU and DET3. To long coil charge overheat coil, and as a result permanent damage of one coil.
To prevent of damages fallow steps:
1) Locate ignition coils (rear of the engine)
2) Disconnect both coils plugs
3) Disconnect ECU connector.
4) Check continuity of wires between 1G and 1H terminals in ECU and coils plug with multimeter
5) Connect DET3 as it fallows in wiring
6) Double check coils wiring
7) Connect ECU plug and turn ignition on
8) Connect to the DET3 with laptop and change settings in ignition section
9) Save changes to DET3
DET3 piggyback mode
10) Turn off ignition and turn on, open ignition section in DET3 and check if setting are saved
11) Triple time check wiring from DET3 to ignition coils.
12) With ignition turned off connect ignition coils plug and try to start the engine
DET3 FIT mode (firmware)
11) Setup all settings in :
General settings
Injector settings
boost parameters
12) Turn off ignition and turn on, open ignition section in DET3 and check if setting are saved
13) Triple time check wiring from DET3 to ignition coils
14) With ignition turned off connect ignition coils plug and try to start the engine
Hey I’m not shur will this comment be seen as it’s an old video but i used your videos as a base to wire a det3 into my turbo starlet and im having a problem when I try to hold the car at 3k rpm (needed for emissions test) it cuts in and out. Im really lost im hoping you way understand what’s going on. Any help is appreciated
Without knowing how it was wired or how it's been tuned I'll do my best. Have you removed fuel using the fuel table? Mine did this when the MAP sensor out put voltage was too low and the Toyota ECU performed a safety cut (like a rev limiter). Are you trying to make it leaner to pass the test?
See this vid: ua-cam.com/video/ZUWqCMIKNTI/v-deo.html
@@dan91sgarage I have it wired in exactly as your own videos, I’ve been creating a tune so there is areas with fuel added/taken out, trying to lean it out a bit
@@dan91sgarage it seems to be when I take out fuel from that part of the table it causes a fuel cut so there’s no way to get the air fuel ratio to where I need it without causing a fuel cut
@@finnq4980 What size injectors are you using? And is it stock fuel pressure? What AFR are you trying to acheive? Do you have the Toyota narrowband O2 sensor connected with a switch like I did? Do you have a catalytic converter installed?
@@dan91sgarageI’m using 4efte injectors, have standard fuel pressure, I do have the narrowband on a switch the same way as you but it seems to make no difference, trying to achieve 14.7/1 ratio at 3k rpm -0.75/-.08 bar boost, do have a cat in the car but after the two sensors
Hey dan. Question i have a problem with thé software, it keeps saying Cannot connect, i have tride it with 2 different laptop but it doesn’t work, can you help me out cheers
Did you download and install the det 3 USB drivers on the laptops from the ecumaster website?
@@dan91sgarage thank you so much. Legend
i am going to do the same to my starlet the only thing that misses is the icu
Can you set a higer redline with the det3+? Looking for something that can change my factor 6500rpm to 7-7.5K rpm
If the rpm limiter is controlled with a fuel cut from the injectors, you can wire the Det 3 in fuel implant mode and it will have full control of the injectors, then you can increase the rev limit. If the rev limit on your car is spark controlled then no. Just remember, often the rev limit is there for a reason (component strength, head / cam max. flow) and increasing the limit doesn't really get much performance increase as most stock engines produce max power well before stock rpm limit.
@@dan91sgaragewhen using the det3+ do I need to upload some type of base map or will it run the same like how I have things before installing the det3+?
@@PH020 If the det 3+ is installed as a piggy back setup with no other harware changes then it will start and run as normal. If piggyback with larger injectors / turbo you will need to retard ignition and tune fuel to get it to run safely. If installing in fuel implant mode then you will need to generate a fuel base map, calibrate sensors etc. as the det3+ will have full control of the injectors, afaik.
Is the DET 3 able to fuel implant batch fire an in-line 6?
The Det 3 in fuel implant mode has 2 injector outputs. So you would have to connect 3 high impedance injectors to each output wire and both outputs (all 6 injectors) would be fired simultaneously. The FI mode can do 4 injectors on one output (4 cyl), up to 4 injectors on two outputs (5-8 cyl, fired simultaneously), or 2 injectors per output (4 cyl. alternate fire) Not done it myself but that's what I can work out from the instruction manual.
Currently fitting det3 jnto lexus, just have a question regarding the internal map sensor built into det3, do you supply vacuum source aswell as intercepting factory map sensor ?
If the intercepted vehicle map sensor is capable of reading the full boost level you intend to run then this can be used for load and modify signal in the det 3 and the inbuilt 4 bar map sensor can be left without a vac hose connection. You only need to connect a vac hose to the inbuilt 4 bar sensor if you intend to use it to run the engine. If your not using it then it doesn't matter. What lexus is it? is200?
@Dan91's Garage yes dan is200, gonna use internal map sensor, aem wideband,aftermarket iat sensor even tho i saw ur new video mention using stock one would be simpler. Do you have a video coming up regarding boost solenoid plumbing wiring and setup or would it be possible to email with few questions
@@TheWilltraff You don't need to hook into the iat sensor unless you intend to wire the det 3 for fuel implant mode instead of piggyback. It can be useful for 2 d corrections but I didn't bother with splicing into the iat for my piggyback install and haven't needed to. Currently not used the pwm for boost control, but it's done with a 3 port mac valve. The det 3 instruction manual has a clear setup section for the wiring. You can contact me on instagram for dm stuff if you need.
Hi Dan,
Firstly mate, your a legend for such in-depth videos and no ads.
I'm commenting here as I also have a lexus is200. I have just installed a tdo5 turbo kit and supporting fuel mods.
I can't get any time with tuners as they are so busy so I thought I'd take a risk. I have the det3+ and am about to purchase a WBO2/GAUGE.
I simply need some help with the wiring. Will it all work out if I follow the same 6 wiring you have done (minus the analogue #1 input as I will use the 4bar map sensor)?
You will need a 4efte map sensor. As ecu will cut rpm around 4000rpm when it sees positive pressure...but yeah all your wiring is same as mine...I didn't have much success with the wideband and boost reference on the det3, seems to be off...I just street tuned using the laptop looking at the guage and not data logging, as I didn't trust the readings on the live analogue 3 input.
Yes the n/a Toyota 1 bar map sensor is no good for boost. Thankfully the DET3+ has an inbuilt 4 bar MAP sensor. So this is the signal I use for load and modify in the fuel and ignition tables. No need to to buy the rare / silly priced 4efte MAP sensors anymore! The afr's displayed on the det3 are very close to the gauge readout on my setup, so datalogging is fine for me. 👍
@@dan91sgarage so did u delete the stock map sensor or just intercepting/ modifying 5v signal?
@King slots The plan was to use a glanza map sensor but they are too rare now. The det3 + has the inbuilt 4 bar map sensor allocated on Analogue input #2. The 4efe Map sensor is still in place (plugged in and vac tube connected) but does nothing to run the engine on my build. I explain how to use the det3 4 bar map to run the engine here: ua-cam.com/video/ZUWqCMIKNTI/v-deo.html. 👍
Won't the ecu still reset the fuel trim when it exceeds factory limits? Or does the closed loop delete block the ecu from doing that?
If the Toyota ECU doesn't receive a narrowband o2 signal to tell if it is rich or lean, it can't know whether to add or subtract fuel. I can't see how it would be able to adjust without this information? Also closed loop isn't active all the time mainly at idle and cruise / low load.
@@dan91sgarage So does the ecu pop any engine lights if it doesn't receive the narrowband signal? I assume you still use narrowband for cold starts etc?
@@Cptlink420 No check engine light so far, haven't checked if it stores a fault code though. These engines are pre obd2 so don't really have "limp" mode (only "boost" cut if certain voltages from the MAP sensor are out of range). Most efi engines of this vintage run open loop at cold start anyway (specific fuel enrichment, timing etc) then when the coolant temp. reaches a certain level it will go closed loop and start targeting certain AFR. With nbo2 turned on and stock injectors mine cold starts at 10.5 AFR and after a few minutes warming up with decreasing afr readings it began to cycle between 14.5-15.5-14.5-15.5. With nbo2 off it starts at 10.5 and warms up to 14.0 (safe rich, no cycling) as shown in the video.
@@dan91sgarage I have yet to do tuning but assuming when I increase fueling the afr drops and after few seconds goes to normal even if the map shows +5 on fuel. Is this because of the closed loop and can be fixed by disabling the narrow band? Tho I have jz ecu what is known to have problems with piggybacks.
@@Cptlink420 So yours is 2jz-ge?
You can buy a 30$ box for these that connects to the mapsensor, fit a set of 4efte(sized) injectors, and run 0,4bar on a stock 4efe all day long.
Or you can buy a 100$ standalone instead of a 400$ piggyback and get some proper control
Piggyback devices like the det3 are an excellent solution for home built turbo applications at this power level. The det3 is also a datalogger and EBC plus much more. I think it's an absolute bargain. The $30 Fuel cut defender your suggesting instead doesn't actually tune anything, all it does is prevent boost cut. When set up as you describe, the starlets run pig rich at idle (10 afr) and off boost. They also can't retard timing, so on boost fcd's risk engine damage, but it'll be so rich you might survive for a bit 👎. Not sure what standalone you can get for $100 but I assume it will be a circuit board that you will need to spend hours specifying and then soldering (assuming the user can even solder). Then the wiring install to the engine will be a lot more complex and the tuning will also require much better knowledge than most people have. How much timing advance do I need for boost? for example.
Another top job Dan! 👌🏻
The big question is when are we going to see a proper POV video of this thing boosting down the road?
Thanks mate. Not long to wait now, trust me I'm the most eager for this first drive!