I have a 147 that was sold to me by the fellow that bought a kit in 1958. Still has his chain smoking dad's nicotine coating on it. Used it till he retired a few years ago. Works like a charm.
I am just starting out in learning how to repair old tube radios.....A long way to go yet in understanding all that's going on! Thanks for the tutorial on replacing the electrolytics in the existing can. I am certain I will be trying this in the future! Donald
EXCELLANT !!. You have patience, I didn't think it was going that way at first. Your a skilled individual. Thank you for showing your talents. Hoping you'll bring more !!.
Excellent video Buddy. With regard to the high voltages on the terminals on this Eico, I have a good story about my signal tracer where in the past someone had fitted a 1930s British 4-pin valve base to the front panel. So a similar idea to the B+ terminal on the Eico. However, these older valve bases have exposed brass sockets for the valve pins to fit in to and one of these was connected straight to the smoothing (filter) circuit. If I recall there was at least 250v on there plus 6.3V AC on another, no protection, nothing to stop you sticking your fingers on it. I was a bit stunned that anyone would have done that. Always pays to have a good look over this old gear to make sure no-ones been messing before sticking volts up it. Regards _ Andrew
If I'm not mistaken the 330 ohm resistor actually measures 406 ohms, not 406K ohms. There was a decimal point in front of the 4. Nice job stuffing the capacitor. Do you do turkeys? Your welcome to come over thanksgiving day and stuff my bird. :) Made quick work of tracking down the noise in the 101. I couldn't work without mine. A truely indispensable tool.
Yes you are correct. I glance and saw the "K" on the end. My other meters do not do that but the Klein does. Easy to mistake something with it.Stuff a turkey eh? I am ready. Yum.Yes this helps tracking down those noise stages.Thanks Mike
+The Radio Shop These are also nice because they have the meter/scope output if you want to monitor it externally. The built in output transformers are also nice when working on old tube radios. And lets not forget they also have a built in wattmeter function.
Yep, very versatile piece of gear. I need to make up some probes and scope connectors for it. Did the video last night. Edited today after work. Going to call it a day. Tomorrow will be a chiller. Good time to come out in the shop to play with my new toy.
This is extremely helpful. I am looking to equip my shop full of Eico gear. The biggest reason is the availability of diagrams and service information. Thanks.
That was the best explanation of opening up a can capacitor that I've seen. I usually cut them off with a hack saw but I'll be on the lookout for the ones that I can un-crimp. I'd like to have seen how you crimp it but that wasn't super critical to me
Thanks Michael. On crimping the can just do the reverse with the flat nose pliers. Bend the edge back in on itself. Then with a small hammer tap around it till it is sealed again. Glad you liked it.
Great can cap procedure! So, you obviously soldered the neg leads on top of the new caps to a new lead and ran that down the middle, then on the side of the base?
I just got a great deal today. A Fluke 1910A freq counter, a GW/ Instek GRG-450B Generator, and n Eico 147A. All for $85 shipped. The Eico is missing a gain knob, and looks to be modified. There's a toggle switch labeled HF/LF next to the RF input jack (switched to a BNC)
Great job! I like to stuff capacitors for the same reasons you pointed out. I have measured new multi-section electrolytic can capacitors and have found significant inter capacitor capacitance. (Between the positive terminals of the capacitor). So if for example, two of these sections are part of a pi power supply filter network, there is a significant capacitance placed across the inductor or resistor from this capacitance. Stuffing capacitors as you so expertly did greatly reduces this capacitance between sections.
Joe, you are correct about the capacitance between each leg. One good thing about the re-stuff is this is no longer an issue. Since each cap is in it's own shielded body. Thanks for stopping in and commenting.
Love it. I'm not a big Eico fan, but that is an instrument I would be very happy to own and use. Great treatment of the re-stuffing of that can; I do that, too. I'll occasionally re-stuff paper ones, depending upon the overall condition of the beast being restored. Thanks, I'll be a sub.
Thank you very much. I too used to not be a fan of Eico, but I sort of like being the underdog at time :-). Paper caps are fun to stuff also. Seen times when removing the wax from the tube it looks brand new.
Hey Buddy - I just got one of these. Added a 3 wire power cord & replaced all caps. I find that when I turn the gain past a little past 2 o'clock in trace RF mode, the oscillator takes off & squeals very loud. Typical? Seems as tho it has a ton of gain. Thanx - Bob
Good job. Yes these have a lot of gain. They will squeal a bit if turned up to high but would not hurt to test all resistors in that circuit to make sure they are where they need to be.
Buddy, Thank you for another informative video. Your detail on restuffling the can was awesome. Looking forward to more of your Videos! As a new be to this fascinating world of eletronics I learn so much from you. Thanks again! Joel
Buddy, That lip you pry open and re-seal .... in the past I have just milled that away. It's a bit of a to do getting the cap set up in the milling machine, but once that is done, it is pretty straight forward. I guess you could turn that away on the lathe as well... would work just as nicely, I reckon. After that, just fill the old cap up with the new one(s) reassemble and use some loctite to keep it all together... works a treat and none is the wiser! Toodles!! Paddy
Great job on that multi section electrolytic Buddy. Really like the techniques and methods you use to keep everything original. The water certainly has not slowed your enthusiasm or your hands on skills. You just get better (watch out Mike :)
I really enjoyed watching you re-stuff the capacitor and it turned out great and it is looking really good when it is mounted on the signal tracer really nice job👍thank you for showing it, hi from Henning 😊
Thanks. I like the way things look when they have an original appearance. Not everyone thinks this is the correct way to do it lol. Thanks for watchingwww.reddit.com/r/electronics/comments/5dvuxd/eico_model_147a_repair_and_test_stuffing_a/
Very helpful video! Thank you. I was waiting to see your technique to recrimp the bottom of the capacitor. Your recrimp looks almost as good as the origina. Do you show how you do the recrimp in any of your other videos? Thanks, Chris
I think one of my videos show how I crimp the cap. Cannot remember which one though. I use a flat pliers to bend the edge over and then use a small hammer to flatten it down. Very simple. Thanks for the comment.
Good job restuffing the capacitor the right way. Nice video, thanks. I've seen some people cut them in half, restuff and then tape them back together, I really don't like that, makes them look awful.
Great episode Buddy you're a true connoisseur of originality re-stuffing those caps! I let Hayseed do that for me when I re-capped my Drake C-Line. Happy Thanksgiving! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thanks Dino. Those Hayseed capacitors are a thing of beauty. Cost a little more but look nice in old equipment. Thanks for stopping in my friend and have a great Thanksgiving.
Hi Buddy. Have you found the correct manual for this unit? If not, I can send you one. I restored my 147A 8 years ago and at the same time I restored the manual.
I’m planing to buy one signal tracer But I didn’t decide which one (HealthKit T-3/T-4/IT-12 or the EICO 147a) One of the issues is power 220v supply I’ll be appreciated for the suggestions
WHERE CAN I FIND THE SCHEMATICS TO T HE EICO 324? just got the schematics for the 147A This video is invaluable to me i just acquired two EICO units the 324 and the 147A i have been watching you for some time now and ALL your videos cover every thing that i did not learn in a electronics trade school
there is 10uf and a 1uf under the speaker plate that go to rf gain and agc. just changed mine yesterday, very quiet recieve now. (good quiet, not deaf)
The Radio Shop I replaced the PA sockets on my 101....do I have to hook up the "rf out" jack? Is it part of the capacitance of the circuit? Funny thing is now I can only get 70W tuning and before was 120W. Unless the driver went tits up, its the only thing different. :(
I see nothing in the rf out jack that could cause any issue if it is not connected. But something is causing it. Maybe the driver. Taking that the sockets were the same and everything back in place should not have dropped the power.
i'm curious as to why not leave the can in place for appearance sake and with a terminal strip or two install the new caps, res etc under the chassis instead ?
Hi Radio Shop, Awesome repair, nice to maintain the originality of the unit. Learning a lot from your channel. Between you & Mike, I'm covered. Happy Sub. Have a Happy Thanksgiving, be good, C.
Thanks Cass. I like keeping things original looking if possible. Mikes is a great guy and fun to watch and learn. And a happy turkey day to you. Take care ,Buddy
I'm sure you realized after the fact that the resistor you thought was open was actually reading 406 ohms. The reading on the multimeter was .406K which is of course 406 ohms. Anyway, good video. Keep them coming.
Yes Buddy was a good show and well done must say.. Looking at the bench Hummmm looks like have to keep a eye open for a signal tracer lol lol , like you HB one up same idea you had on yours, yep computer audio speakers lol lol..like always buddy i enjoy all your videos always learn something from them .Thanks and 73's Buddy
Hi Dale, thanks for the nice comments. Saw a email come through with your name on it the other day. Just have not had time to get to it yet. About 100 to 150 a day here.......
EICO Manuals are here www.kevinchant.com/eico.html and the EICO 147A manual can be found here as well bama.edebris.com/manuals/eico/147a/ Maybe you already have them but in the video, you mention that you miss the 147A manual, therefore my comment. I hope it helps.
@@TheRadioShop I have a lot of Eico manuals, my bench is mostly Eico and have manual that are very readable, any time I can help, just let me know, and thank you again for the great channel...
I am just starting out in learning how to repair old tube radios.....A long way to go yet in understanding all that's going on! Thanks for the tutorial on replacing the electrolytics in the existing can. I am certain I will be trying this in the future! Donald
Nice tracer buddy. Ya know, I have rags just full of that "protective film." LOL! Thumbs up!
Thanks Paul. Bout time I got a decent tracer thanks to Mike. I am collecting those rags full of the stuff also. Thanks for stopping by,
I have a 147 that was sold to me by the fellow that bought a kit in 1958. Still has his chain smoking dad's nicotine coating on it. Used it till he retired a few years ago. Works like a charm.
First time I have seen the proper way of refilling a can, Thank you.
Thank you for watching.
I am just starting out in learning how to repair old tube radios.....A long way to go yet in understanding all that's going on!
Thanks for the tutorial on replacing the electrolytics in the existing can. I am certain I will be trying this in the future!
Donald
EXCELLANT !!. You have patience, I didn't think it was going that way at first. Your a skilled individual. Thank you for showing your talents. Hoping you'll bring more !!.
Thank you for the very kind words. It is not really that hard to do. Glad you liked it and will be many more to come.
Excellent video Buddy. With regard to the high voltages on the terminals on this Eico, I have a good story about my signal tracer where in the past someone had fitted a 1930s British 4-pin valve base to the front panel. So a similar idea to the B+ terminal on the Eico. However, these older valve bases have exposed brass sockets for the valve pins to fit in to and one of these was connected straight to the smoothing (filter) circuit. If I recall there was at least 250v on there plus 6.3V AC on another, no protection, nothing to stop you sticking your fingers on it. I was a bit stunned that anyone would have done that. Always pays to have a good look over this old gear to make sure no-ones been messing before sticking volts up it.
Regards _ Andrew
Great story! Like you said better look things over to see what others have done to modify things. Thanks for sharing that and for stopping in.
If I'm not mistaken the 330 ohm resistor actually measures 406 ohms, not 406K ohms. There was a decimal point in front of the 4.
Nice job stuffing the capacitor. Do you do turkeys? Your welcome to come over thanksgiving day and stuff my bird. :)
Made quick work of tracking down the noise in the 101. I couldn't work without mine. A truely indispensable tool.
Yes you are correct. I glance and saw the "K" on the end. My other meters do not do that but the Klein does. Easy to mistake something with it.Stuff a turkey eh? I am ready. Yum.Yes this helps tracking down those noise stages.Thanks Mike
+The Radio Shop
These are also nice because they have the meter/scope output if you want to monitor it externally. The built in output transformers are also nice when working on old tube radios. And lets not forget they also have a built in wattmeter function.
Yep, very versatile piece of gear. I need to make up some probes and scope connectors for it. Did the video last night. Edited today after work. Going to call it a day. Tomorrow will be a chiller. Good time to come out in the shop to play with my new toy.
+The Radio Shop
That's what I sent all the test lead wire and ends for. That way you can make them to suit you and at your prefered length.
Yep. And that is what I shall do :-) Now to get time. Raining here at the moment. Was nice today.
Thanks for sharing. Glad to see you back following the flooding.
And always good to see you. Thanks for stopping in.
Wow, that's a really clean looking unit. Very nice!
It sure is!
This is extremely helpful. I am looking to equip my shop full of Eico gear. The biggest reason is the availability of diagrams and service information. Thanks.
Yes lots of information out there for Eico gear. Really help
That was the best explanation of opening up a can capacitor that I've seen. I usually cut them off with a hack saw but I'll be on the lookout for the ones that I can un-crimp. I'd like to have seen how you crimp it but that wasn't super critical to me
Thanks Michael. On crimping the can just do the reverse with the flat nose pliers. Bend the edge back in on itself. Then with a small hammer tap around it till it is sealed again. Glad you liked it.
Great can cap procedure! So, you obviously soldered the neg leads on top of the new caps to a new lead and ran that down the middle, then on the side of the base?
I just got a great deal today. A Fluke 1910A freq counter, a GW/ Instek GRG-450B Generator, and n Eico 147A. All for $85 shipped. The Eico is missing a gain knob, and looks to be modified. There's a toggle switch labeled HF/LF next to the RF input jack (switched to a BNC)
Nice score Jon. You are going to have a nice repair bench setup.
Fantastic, I got one of these in a take-everything lot. Has hum as well. Thank you for the video.
Nice video. I have a question. What did you say happens when the gain knob is driven past 12 o’clock? Motorboating? Sorry if I missed it.
Great job! I like to stuff capacitors for the same reasons you pointed out. I have measured new multi-section electrolytic can capacitors and have found significant inter capacitor capacitance. (Between the positive terminals of the capacitor). So if for example, two of these sections are part of a pi power supply filter network, there is a significant capacitance placed across the inductor or resistor from this capacitance. Stuffing capacitors as you so expertly did greatly reduces this capacitance between sections.
Joe, you are correct about the capacitance between each leg. One good thing about the re-stuff is this is no longer an issue. Since each cap is in it's own shielded body. Thanks for stopping in and commenting.
Love it. I'm not a big Eico fan, but that is an instrument I would be very happy to own and use.
Great treatment of the re-stuffing of that can; I do that, too. I'll occasionally re-stuff paper ones, depending upon the overall condition of the beast being restored. Thanks, I'll be a sub.
Thank you very much. I too used to not be a fan of Eico, but I sort of like being the underdog at time :-). Paper caps are fun to stuff also. Seen times when removing the wax from the tube it looks brand new.
Hey Buddy - I just got one of these. Added a 3 wire power cord & replaced all caps. I find that when I turn the gain past a little past 2 o'clock in trace RF mode, the oscillator takes off & squeals very loud. Typical? Seems as tho it has a ton of gain. Thanx - Bob
Good job. Yes these have a lot of gain. They will squeal a bit if turned up to high but would not hurt to test all resistors in that circuit to make sure they are where they need to be.
Roger that, thanx.
Buddy, Thank you for another informative video. Your detail on restuffling the can was awesome. Looking forward to more of your Videos!
As a new be to this fascinating world of eletronics I learn so much from you. Thanks again! Joel
Thanks Joel. Stuffing the cans is not hard at all. Just have to know how they are put together. Glad you are learning things my friend.
Buddy,
That lip you pry open and re-seal .... in the past I have just milled that away.
It's a bit of a to do getting the cap set up in the milling machine, but once that is done, it is pretty straight forward.
I guess you could turn that away on the lathe as well... would work just as nicely, I reckon.
After that, just fill the old cap up with the new one(s) reassemble and use some loctite to keep it all together... works a treat and none is the wiser!
Toodles!!
Paddy
Great job on that multi section electrolytic Buddy.
Really like the techniques and methods you use to keep everything original.
The water certainly has not slowed your enthusiasm or your hands on skills.
You just get better (watch out Mike :)
Thanks Greg. Just have to keep moving forward. Thought this would be a great project to jump on and get back into things. Thanks for watching
I really enjoyed watching you re-stuff the capacitor and it turned out great and it is looking really good when it is mounted on the signal tracer really nice job👍thank you for showing it, hi from Henning 😊
Thanks. I like the way things look when they have an original appearance. Not everyone thinks this is the correct way to do it lol. Thanks for watchingwww.reddit.com/r/electronics/comments/5dvuxd/eico_model_147a_repair_and_test_stuffing_a/
+The Radio Shop
Ahh, people that have no clue. :)
Very helpful video! Thank you. I was waiting to see your technique to recrimp the bottom of the capacitor. Your recrimp looks almost as good as the origina. Do you show how you do the recrimp in any of your other videos? Thanks, Chris
I think one of my videos show how I crimp the cap. Cannot remember which one though. I use a flat pliers to bend the edge over and then use a small hammer to flatten it down. Very simple. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for your time my friend, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Good job restuffing the capacitor the right way. Nice video, thanks.
I've seen some people cut them in half, restuff and then tape them back together, I really don't like that, makes them look awful.
Thanks. Some of them you have to cut them. But I do it a different way than most. Have to show that sometime. Thanks for watching.
Great episode Buddy you're a true connoisseur of originality re-stuffing those caps! I let Hayseed do that for me when I re-capped my Drake C-Line. Happy Thanksgiving! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thanks Dino. Those Hayseed capacitors are a thing of beauty. Cost a little more but look nice in old equipment. Thanks for stopping in my friend and have a great Thanksgiving.
Excellent video Buddy!
really enjoyed that!
Thanks Bobby. Much appreciated.
Hi Buddy. Have you found the correct manual for this unit? If not, I can send you one. I restored my 147A 8 years ago and at the same time I restored the manual.
I have never found the correct manual for this. So yes pleas send, my information can be found under the show more tab below the video. Thanks
I’m planing to buy one signal tracer
But I didn’t decide which one (HealthKit T-3/T-4/IT-12 or the EICO 147a)
One of the issues is power 220v supply
I’ll be appreciated for the suggestions
great job Buddy and nice useful peace of equipment, Thanks for sharing,
Thanks Peter. Yes been wanting one of these for a long time. Sorry for late reply, been real busy my friend. 73
Nice job done Buddy!
Thanks
WHERE CAN I FIND THE SCHEMATICS TO T HE EICO 324? just got the schematics for the 147A
This video is invaluable to me i just acquired two EICO units the 324 and the 147A i have been watching you for some time now and ALL your videos cover every thing that i did not learn in a electronics trade school
You can get the manual from BAMA site. It is in djvu format. bama.edebris.com/manuals/eico/324/
Well done Buddy!!
Thanks Chuck
That was fun thanks Buddy 👍👍
always enjoy your video
Thanks eddie, glad you liked it.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you.
I was lucky with mine. I put a 1/4" audio mono jack in the RF input and it's as quiet as a mouse, until I plug in the guitar and crank the gain.
there is 10uf and a 1uf under the speaker plate that go to rf gain and agc.
just changed mine yesterday, very quiet recieve now. (good quiet, not deaf)
And just may be where the problem Is. Thanks
The Radio Shop I replaced the PA sockets on my 101....do I have to hook up the "rf out" jack?
Is it part of the capacitance of the circuit?
Funny thing is now I can only get 70W tuning and before was 120W.
Unless the driver went tits up, its the only thing different.
:(
I see nothing in the rf out jack that could cause any issue if it is not connected. But something is causing it. Maybe the driver. Taking that the sockets were the same and everything back in place should not have dropped the power.
please have a look
www.worldwidedx.com/threads/yaesu-ft101e-bane-of-the-ft-101-the-worldwide-illegal-cb-operator.207251/page-2#post-569492
i'm curious as to why not leave the can in place for appearance sake and with a terminal strip or two install the new caps, res etc under the chassis instead ?
Several folks has asked me previously on how to re-stuff a can cap. That is the only reason I did it that way. Most of the time I do as you stated.
Enjoyed the video, Buddy. You have a lot of patience! 73...Dan w4mnc
Thanks Dan. Sometimes you just have to be patient with these old things.
Hi Radio Shop, Awesome repair, nice to maintain the originality of the unit. Learning a lot from your channel. Between you & Mike, I'm covered. Happy Sub. Have a Happy Thanksgiving, be good, C.
Thanks Cass. I like keeping things original looking if possible. Mikes is a great guy and fun to watch and learn. And a happy turkey day to you. Take care ,Buddy
Great video Buddy. Never cut open one of those can capacitors. Good to see what is inside. WB3BJU
Thank you Donald. Just foil paper and electrolyte. All crammed together.
Nice work Buddy. Good piece of equipment. Mike may want it back now. ;>) 73
I have to many and figured I would spread the wealth. :)
Thanks Larry. Was fun to repair. Lets not tell Mike yet :)
You're a good Man Mike!
I'm sure you realized after the fact that the resistor you thought was open was actually reading 406 ohms. The reading on the multimeter was .406K which is of course 406 ohms. Anyway, good video. Keep them coming.
Yes, At 21.06 a annotation pops up now to correct that mistake. From my angle on the bench the line cord hid the decibel. Thanks for watching
Tom Baker rocks!!! :)
I to noticed the meter reading. Happens to me to from time to time.
Went back and checked that resistor I move with the other meter. 406 ohms lol. Bad to get old and cannot see......
Just to be clear, I was not trying to be critical. As mike stated, it happens to the best of us. :)
+The Radio Shop
LOL, happens to us all.
8:50 looks like about 10 seconds before id end up cramming the screwdriver into my hand.
Yep, you have to be very careful.
Yes Buddy was a good show and well done must say.. Looking at the bench Hummmm looks like have to keep a eye open for a signal tracer lol lol , like you HB one up same idea you had on yours, yep computer audio speakers lol lol..like always buddy i enjoy all your videos always learn something from them .Thanks and 73's Buddy
Hi Dale, thanks for the nice comments. Saw a email come through with your name on it the other day. Just have not had time to get to it yet. About 100 to 150 a day here.......
Bad measurements sent me down many a rabbit hole. My worst was troubleshooting a TV all the way back to the unplugged AC
power cheater cord. ;)
You could use a large tubing cutter for the caps...to cut them..
Yes you surly can.
Does anyone have, or make a replacement power transformer for Eico 950B capacitor tester?.
Great! sent you the manual for this also.... KK4MSA
Thanks Justin!.
can the probe you made for the computer speaker set you did a video on work with this one also?
Yes. Same concept
the Manual can be found here: bama.edebris.com/manuals/eico/147a/
what did u use in place of that .25mf 400v wax cap? or did you have .25's on hand. I'm going to use .22uf cuz that's what I have.
EICO Manuals are here www.kevinchant.com/eico.html and the EICO 147A manual can be found here as well bama.edebris.com/manuals/eico/147a/
Maybe you already have them but in the video, you mention that you miss the 147A manual, therefore my comment.
I hope it helps.
Thanks, I have some but did not have that link.
I do have a Eico 147A manual if you want I can send you a copy....
Thanks Daniel, I did find a scan of one but the quality is not that good.. Much appreciated
@@TheRadioShop I have a lot of Eico manuals, my bench is mostly Eico and have manual that are very readable, any time I can help, just let me know, and thank you again for the great channel...
Alusol is the solder you are looking for.
Thanks
DID YOU EVER FIND THE CORRECT MANUAL FOR THIS? iF NOT AND YOU WANT A COPY LET ME KNOW...
That was .406K not 406 K
:
I just buy a new CAN.
...that's EXACTLY what I did with my EICO 147A: the capacitor cost about $40- but I thought it was worth it.
They still make it..? If you dont mind can you post a link as to where..?
@@esci8978 - Radiodaze & Hayseedfamfeast
@@tubeDude48 thank you..!
I am just starting out in learning how to repair old tube radios.....A long way to go yet in understanding all that's going on!
Thanks for the tutorial on replacing the electrolytics in the existing can. I am certain I will be trying this in the future!
Donald
Thanks for watching Donald. Repairing old tube equipment is very fun and is great practice for learning.
...there are LOTS of UA-cam videos covering the repair or vacuum tube radios- I happen to be an enthusiast for vintage transistor radios.