Can You Double Your AGM DEEP-CYCLE BATTERY Run-Time? (Ask An Expert)
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
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If you're wanting to double your AGM DEEP-CYCLE BATTERY's run-time then follow Cahn's expert advice. He shows you how to extend the life of your deep-cycle battery so you can power your fridge for longer. It's a must-watch for all campers!
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I think the light globe example was a good one for the non - electrical engineers, like me. I'm pretty sure that this video was aimed at novices, so a good example and a good job. There's not many companies out there that try to educate as well as sell their stuff. Keep up the good work.
Cheers mate!
I tried to keep it simple, but then the pros came after me! Can't please everyone!
Thanks for watching and commenting, glad it made sense!
Cheers,
Cahn
Thank you for your demonstration I'm concerned about the recharging 170 ah battery. I bought . I am buying solar panel . I don't know how people set up the controller with battery and how I don't know what size of panel I should buy. If you could do video with that. That would be great
Excelent short video that brings excelente tips for a longer battery life, and a success camping. 🇧🇷
Glad you liked it! Brenno
Good information. Thanks
Thanks so much Cahn. I didn't know the dual battery isolator doesn't charge to 100% for AGM. Are you guys selling LiFePO4 soon?
Hey Malcolm,
Yeah it all depends on the battery charging voltage - AGM generally needs about 14.6v to fully charge! If your alternator can’t provide that, it might be still charged to 90% but that means you lose that capacity every charge and over time!
I’ve been testing a bunch and I reckon we will eventually! It’s just a matter of getting the right one with the right specs at this point.
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu Thank you again.
The "keep the voltage up to use less power" is ridiculous, the lightbulb example either way you are using 60 watts of power, yes there will technically be lower cable losses at the higher voltage but it would be insignificant if you had remotely appropriately sized cable. And regardless you're not "extending the runtime" if you're just charging the battery
You agreed it’s technically right - sure it’s oversimplified but we can’t go into every tiny detail in every video!
pulling higher currents from a battery will decrease its overall capacity during that discharge cycle. This is why a C1 rate returns a much smaller Ah capacity than a C20 or C100 rate.
I’d also argue that charging the battery does extend the runtime - in fact it’s a pretty simple way to do just that!
Cheers,
Cahn
Fair shout
It’s always good to have any feedback so cheers for watching and taking the time to comment anyway, hope you’re having a ripper weekend!
Cheers,
Cahn
Another great informative video, thanks. But at 4:20, do you mean 45 amps instead of 40? ie half of 90...
No, because you still don’t want to drop the battery below 50% of its original capacity. So if you have a 100Ah battery with only 90Ah available, you only have 40 usable before it drops to 50Ah (which is half of the actual capacity)
You’re still aiming to drop to 50% of the actual capacity! Ie If you only charge your battery to 60% full you can’t then drop it to 30% without a worry
hopefully that makes sense!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu OK, no worries. Learning about this stuff is always good to know. Thanks heaps.
What is the right battery cable size from the engine bay if using the 12v control box at the back of the vehicle?
If your using a 20-25 amp dcdc with box mate about 8 b&s cable. If your using a 40amp dcdc around 6 b&s.
Although you need to know everything you will be adding to the system. But for this box alone, 8b&s would be sufficient, but I would use 6 b&s personally 👍
Would it damage anything pulling an anderson plug out of a battery box that is on powering a fridge? Plugging one in?
Yes these kings batteries Blow Up
Bro Im so confused... All I wanna do is watch my TV without it dying.. How do I do this with Solar?
Turn off the TV and throw it in the trash. Easy.
Some good tips cheers. But the part about the light bulb using less amps at higher voltage isn't correct. Checks ohms law
Hey Matthew,
Yes a light 'globe' was probably a bad example in all honesty! Even a 60W Compressor fridge would've made more sense in terms of Watt's Law and not Ohm's Law...
I figure the example is true for non-resistive loads like LED camp lights and Compressor Fridges which is what most people are going to be using while camping...
I'll take your feedback on board though! I clearly tried to make this too simple and instead manage to complicate things anyway!
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu no, simples is fine for us non-tech people! Good work!✔✔✔
Buggered if I know how you came up with the 60W globe using less current at a higher voltage. A globe is just a dumb resistive load. If you increase the voltage, the globe will get brighter right? So it clearly has to be dissipating more power to do that right? You'd have to actually measure, this, but I can say for sure a 60W globe at 14.6V ain't going to be 60W anymore and current in the circuit sure can't be calculated with simple Ohms law. Put a globe in a variable power supply and watch the current go up as you increase the voltage.
It was an LED globe on a driver circuit!
@@4wdsupacentreAu Umm yeah right and maybe telling people they don't need a run a 60W 100,000lm LED light when camping might make the battery last a but longer too eh.
Good idea! We'll make a video about that next! Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and comment!
2:00 Ahh yes, the old "Using a 60w light bulb while the sun's out" trick
👍🇦🇺
Tt