INSANE MOISTURE CONTAMINATION
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- I've never seen moisture contamination this bad... but I think I got it cleaned up pretty good, the tricky thing is where did it come from?
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00:00 TEASER
00:34 SPONSOR CARD
00:44 RESTROOM MYSTERY
02:06 BIG PICTURE CLUE
05:15 VFD OPERATION VERIFICATION
09:22 BACK AGAIN
12:29 COMPRESSOR FEET TIP
16:51 BRAZING MONTAGE
19:12 BE MINDFUL OF THE CUTOMERS COMFORT
19:42 HOLY MOISTURE BATMAN
22:42 VACUUM DECAY
25:50 COMPRESSOR AUTOPSY
31:56 CLOSING WORDS
"entire contents of the van on the roof" yea I felt that one
Now imagine if that job is in Montreal Canada in January up on that roof. I could do California in my sleep. LOL
and in my dreams
@@k.sullivan6303 As a guy from Texas I'd have to nope out of the in January anywhere up north. Guess it's not much different than me in August
i work natural gas but don't touch f gas - always feel glad i don't when i see the sheer amount of stuff you guys have to drag around site. brutal.
He should just get the crane out to bring the van up on some of these jobs 😂😂
Chris, that magnet you found in the bottom of compressor is probably used to catch metal shavings, similar to what you'd find on an oil drain plug or transmission pan on your vehicle. It failed because it's an LG.
What slander. I had a LG compressor work just fine for 3 months once.
@@analogmoz * Guinness Book of World Records would like to know your location *
I thought the same thing about that magnet in the bottom!
@@analogmoz Wow! Must have been the one that was built on a Wednesday.
@@analogmoz no way, we demand proof.
Our recovery tanks get hydro-tested every so often. We had one come back with almost a quart of water in it.
@@Grauenwolf not a HVAC Tech but I imagine it would be easier to get it professionally dried. I'm sure there is a process you can follow but I imagine it takes alot of time.
Then the testing facility did something wrong. When we hydro test tanks we steam dry them while they’re upside down, then if there’s still any water in them we stick an air wand into the tank and blow it out with dry air
@@Grauenwolf Just dumped it and pulled a good vac.
@@Grauenwolf in theory if you pull a vac on it it will all dry out.
that's the only safe way to high pressure test a vessel, water(or other thin liquid equivalent to water). if it does fail, minimal bad things happen, as compared to filled with air or other gas that will also compress to a partial liquid and retains a massive amount of energy. a larger gas filled vessel rupturing can easily level a whole building and more, even if they do it within a huge tank of water, it can flatten a large area and leave a crater hole. 😬 💣 🧨☠️
Wow, that was quite a lot of water!
This reminds me of a project I was on last year in Korea. A large oil and gas production platform was built there, for use in the Gulf of Mexico. The place has many different split unit A/C's for the different parts of the facility.
The facility was transported here to the States for final commissioning. During the first year, ALL of the compressors started failing; many shorting to ground and others seizing up. The company who represented the HVAC side of the project found water in the systems. They connected a vacuum pump and let it run. After about an hour, they returned and found the pump overflowing with oily water! They had to bring a special pump which had an oil treater unit which recirculated the oil and removed water. It collected two gallons from one of the larger systems.
The investigation found out that the Korean shipyard had hydro tested all the refrigerant lines, using water. The temperature at that time of year was well below freezing in Korea. They had blown the lines with nitrogen (or more likely shipyard utility air) and then evacuated. However, there was ice in the system which, of course, didn't evacuate. I have no idea what it cost them, but the shipyard was fully responsible for this messup!
I was on site working on the power generation equipment, but talked a lot with the HVAC guys and got the story. There were a couple pallets of dead compressors on the facility before I left. It was massive carnage. No telling what it cost!
maddog 2 at samsung?
@@zachstone1939
LOL how the hell did you guess that!
Hey Chris.
That broken piece on the compressor is called the Oldham coupling. It keeps the moving scroll from rotating around the shaft while the compressor is running.
That poor compressor was tortured, refused to say where the others were, and was murdered for it
I have had a shop guy remove the rubber plug and let the compressor sit out on the truck over night. Cool thing was it had a sight glass on the compressor. I got to see the amount of moisture bubbling out of the oil... It was a lot and took more than a triple evacuation to get all the water trapped in the oil. I'm glad I work for another company now.
The magnet in the bottom of the compressor doesn't look out of place to me. Automotive applications do that too. Typically your oil drain plug in your car will have a magnet on it to catch small particles of metal and keep it from getting circulated back through the system. The same thing in your transmission, there's usually a strong magnet in the pan that collects metal shavings.
Looking at the big picture, I see two strong possibilities. Since the initial recovery didn't turn up all that moisture, it really makes me doubt it was in the old compressor unless you didn't take it down to a vacuum. If you didn't pull a hard vacuum on the system, then it's entirely likely that there was some severe factory moisture contamination. It could have even been sabotage by a factory worker who knew they were getting fired (I've seen that happen more often than I care to admit).
Not only did the initial recovery not turn up all that moisture, but when you see him draining the old compressor, the oil that poured out of it, looked to be clear and not contaminated.
I bet, the new compressor had a small leak, where the factory did not seal it.
As far as i know, compressor oil i very hygroscopic, so if the compressor had a small leak, and it was stored somewhere moist, the oil would very quickly suck up a lot of moisture.
My guess is the old compressor failed mechanically, and the moisture contamination was in the oil of the new, due to the new compressor not being sealed properly.
In any case, it's good craftmanship to check, and to just keep flushing until the oil is clear, so he did this very professionally.
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz Just hope that this unit don't die soon again due to the moisture because it could have corroded the new compressor pretty badly.
@@ehsnils Yeah i agree....But if it does, i hope it does so, very fast, because then it will again, be a warranty repair.
But yeah, that "new" compressor could be really rusted out inside...
The compressor was sealed, When they removed the shipping plugs, the case was pressurised. 14:25
@@stephenwalls9277 But for how long was it at the factory unsealed. Maybe it was not pressurised at once, when it came off the line.
I tore apart a rebuilt starter after it failed less then a month after a buddy of mine replaced it. We tore it down and I couldn’t believe my eyes. There’s usually a set of four magnets attached inside with an armature. I pulled the end off with the brushes and when I took the thing apart All four magnets had moved around inside the housing. They were not attached to anything. I couldn’t believe me eyes. We ended up rebuilding his old starter and he’s been using it worry free for the last five years.
I had a refrigerant jug of 409a that had water in it. I had like 4 systems that were all getting moisture and I couldn't figure out why, they were all 409 and I had just worked on all them. Turns out there was water in the tank. I put some liquid in a cup and when the refrigeratant boiled off there was standing water in the cup still
Damn that’s not good
I had a restaurant owner provide a used condenser unit, for his small walk-in freezer, that had been stored for five years in his garage. Upon delivery I noted that the king valves were open and told him it was probably highly contaminated but he insisted so I installed it with a new oversized filter and after purging it with nitrogen. Sure enough, after 2 days on the vacuum pump and a bunch of oil changes, I managed to get it below 500 microns. I charged it up and started it. Yeah, the stuff I saw in the sight glass was crazy. I'm pretty sure there was insect parts and other debris flying around the system. Knowing what I know today I should have pulled the compressor and, at the very least, changed the oil. I really think the receiver and accumulator were all contaminated beyond anything I could have cleaned up though. Sometimes you just have to say no.
No good deed goes unpunished. Was there savings at the end or were there multiple issues? I'd go as far as giving my knuckle-headed customers a questionable competitor's business info and state "some people will do anything for money, right or wrong". Most times customers will say they want it done right.
@@lopaka79 lol just send it if that’s what he wants, I would give him my advice but if he wants to pay me over and over, why not
Lol that’s messed up beyond what a vacuum can fix
1
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I love watching someone else work while I just sit here, makes my coffee taste better
18:41 What I've learned as a car mechanic: If you get yourself some rubber hose, like 8mm ID or something, you can use that as a spacer for securing lines. Cut it to desired length, put a ziptie in, loop it around pipe one and go back trough the hose, then loop it around the other pipe and tighten the ziptie. Hope it helps!
Find your video's pretty interesting, systems are so much different then car a/c's
That's a great tip (not a hack but an actual solution)!
Hello Chris…
I am NOT an HVAC tech, but found your videos, and love to watch you do your work. You are a superb tech in how you go over the whole picture when working on the RTU systems. I don’t know what you are talking about when it comes to your gauges readings. I’m an electrician, and understand how you check for shorted 3 phase compressors and bad contactors. I do have a company that calls me to do some of the Seimens and Novar EMS systems. I work with their tech support in replacing thermostats and their main control in the backroom, and their board in the RTUs. So I’m just touching the tip of the iceberg in remote controlled EMS HVAC and Lighting systems. I am picking up some neat tips from your videos and enjoy watching you work. Had a new store where the visitable heater never worked since the store opened. I checked for 24 volts on the thermostat, and got 0 volts. Support told me to find the control for the heater/fan. I found a transformer and contactor above the drop ceiling and was checking it out while talking with my support person. I had 208 volts on the line side of the contactor, and noticed the transformer 208 taps was on the load side of the contactor. I told my support person this don’t look right, the transformer should be on the line side of the contactor. Soon as I switched the trans to the line side all came up with the fan/heater, and my support guy said “now I can see it” I get into some crazy stuff working with these guys on the HVAC & Lighting systems. At least if we can’t get the RTU running when I swap out a thermostat or board, I can check enough other stuff in the RTU where I can tell them to get a real HVAC tech to fix the problem which is out of my scope of work on these systems.
You say you don’t know everything, but in my book, you are a great tech and do really great work.
It's interesting that the dryer didn't plug or the txv didn't fail. That was quite a bit of moisture.
I like your videos because i find it interesting now this stuff works. Keep up with the cool videos man
Thanks for sharing, Chris !!
Hvacr back with a amazing video
never seen vacuum pump oil look like that before, cool video.
Love your autopsy. Neat.
Loving the music your throwing into the edits!!! Keep up the good work
Great work Chris big picture diagnosis master
Excellent video, and really liked the brazing montage music!
Elfl Voyager Purple es la música.
So true Chris if its not working out it’s because you are doing something wrong. Have had to walk away and come back to a problem and it just sorts its self out. Thanks for sharing love your videos keep on learning as I watch.
It's also taking your mind off the problem for a while. I've solved many engineering issues by walking away for a while.
I’ve had one of those Lennox evaporators leak on the top of the distribution tube from it rubbing on the top. I think it was on like a 15 ton but still an LGH. Nice video!
Excellent video.
Good job Chris.
Early video nice Saturday evening surprise!
Had a plate heat exchanger burst on a chiller the other day. Tried to purge the water out of the condenser coils and system. Oil looked like that after vacuuming over 2 weeks.
Im willing to bet it happened in manufacturing. My guess is when unit was being assembled compressors were left open to atmosphere too long before being brazed, pressure tested, and Vacuumed. Once you get moisture absorbed by POE oil it will never come out. You can clean it up but never will get it non-milky without an oil change.
@29:10, that rectangular pocket where the motor shaft goes into the lower scroll is supposed to be able to turn in the bottom of the lower scroll... If it's seized/welded in, that would be (a sign of) your problem. The fact that you dumped so much oil out of the compressor suggests to me that the oil pump was not functioning - look inside the bottom of the hollow motor shaft, there might be a piece of sheet metal in there that is supposed to pump the oil up the center of the shaft to the bearing at the top (that's seized into the lower scroll).
You need to consider a vfd which can do broken belt detection on the blower, some of them can do it and it is worth having on these rtu's to save the compressors from no load conditions.
It had a VFD on it. It was located by the compressor. Looked like it was a Mitsubishi VFD
I don't do much anymore, but when I did brazing I use wet rag compound and tin pieces.
Thanks again for the videos.
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🎯🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
Very interesting vid 🤔...Thx for posting 👍👍👍
Ive got no idea what youre saying, but I find these really interesting to watch-
Thanks Chris for showing an autopsy of LG scroll compressor. I think the moisture came due to braising with compressed air by previous guys? Who knows...
Everytime I come across a LG compressor that is bad I retrofit to a Copeland. Have never had any luck with them.
The varnish on the copper wire and the string around the windings all contain moisture. A low charge condition makes the compressor run hot, driving moisture out of the windings. You see things in that hot climate I never see in Portland Oregon.
I feel like the reeds in the scroll is there to be able to handle liquid flooding into the compressor, with the reeds if there is liquid in the scroll then it can squirt up instead of creating a massive backpressure on the shaft as it tries to compress a liquid.
27:04 Like he mentioned, that tarnish looks like "bluing" if that casing is steel.
I’ve had the water issue happen before, found a low pressure switch had snapped off on a Carrier 5OTC unit, of course the switch was on the top of the suction right under a CFM. It had rained a lot in the previous days before the call. Purged the line with Nitro but u could hear water flowing in the refrigerant line. Yea customer did not want to replace he wanted it fixed, kept getting that milky oil in my vacuum. Ended up drilling a hole in the lowest point of that circuit with a zip screw(non-bit tip) and a lot more water came out. Glad the pressure switch tripped as the compressor did sound ok. Put both driers in it recharged and changed them both out after a few weeks. System has been running for 3+ years now. With minor things(caps, contactor) going wrong since.
The magnet is what everyone else is saying. Those reeds and ports could be for over-pressure relief or if it gets flooded to relieve the liquid (over-pressure). Since those ports were along the scroll.
I will discuss this on my live stream this evening on UA-cam 11/29/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/jaqX-Q3oC84/v-deo.html
Compressor doesn't have reeds, those "reeds" were its check valve, odd design. Muck at top due to lack of lubrication, crazy oxidation/plating going on. Moisture was aleady in there, which means factory never evacuated properly. Hope you get to go back and change drier. One of your better videos!
I'd say the reeds are there as liquid pressure relief ports for when it gets slugged.
under operation the outlet pressure on top of the reeds should be equal or higher than pressure behind the reeds within the scroll, unless there's something non-compressible, which would open the reeds and correct the harmful condition. the reed ports would also get covered up at a certain point within the rotation.
Just seeing this video, I was in the hospital for 3 months and almost died at one point. I took a job a few years back from another contractor that couldnt get the job finished, turned out his guy, that he had just fired, poured water into the new compressor prior to installation.
The only time I've seen that is when there was still refrigerant in the system and I was pulling a vacuum. The isolation valve was bleeding by and the oil in my pump turned white, even after changing it multiple times.
I did a 7x oil change with that same pump the other day. Nasty old R12 system, 35 years old with a yellow sight glass. It's green now
moisture plugged txv and compressor overheated,thx for sharing.on multi system is hard to do deep vacuum if coil is wet,it might have small leak,and introduce moisture.
I replaced a coil on a industrial Hyde drier for a tannery. The factory used water to pressure test the coil. Same problem with the vacuum pump oil. Had to change it about ten times. We even purged the coil with dry nitrogen before we started. I’ve had nitrogen bottles with water on the bottom. I would tip that cylinder over once it’s empty and see if water drips out. Flooded starts = cause of most compressor failures.
What That Is Interesting. Also i love your videos
The old compressor didn't appear to have rust on the inside. I would think there would have been heavy corrosion with the amount of moisture that you pulled out of there.
I will discuss this on my live stream this evening on UA-cam 11/29/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/jaqX-Q3oC84/v-deo.html
If there is no oxygen in the system there will not be corrosion even with water.
@Peter smith Normally I would agree, but the O2 could of been greatly reduced if the system was pumped down to a vacuum at any point. Water doesn't hold on to oxygen nearly as well in a vacuum because as you said, its probably going to boil off. There is likely some amount of oxygen left but not nearly enough to cause wide spread corrosion. In any case, its all hypothetical and this is an odd one.
@@hgbugalou Water is 1/3 oxygen. If that was the case, any cars, boats or planes that went in the water should look as good as the day they submerged.
@@mattnsac Water is an extremely stable molecule and the oxygen is not going to just randomly disassociate from the hydrogen atoms without electrical input via electrolysis or a very particular chemical reaction that is not present in most situations. If this were the case as you are saying, we could of solved energy long ago by just collecting hydrogen from the oceans from these random molecular break downs. Water being so nonreactive is part of the reason why its a good solvent. All corrosion from water comes from oxygen species, mainly plain old O2 dissolved in the water along with other things like salts.
29:49 - Scrolls don't need valves for their operation itself, but the reeds prevent the pressure equalizing back through the compressor instantly after it's off, causing it to freewheel backward possibly. I'm not someone qualified in the field. But long ago I observed on a train that when I heard that the AC on it turned off, I heard the compressor spinning up to a quite higher RPM momentarily, that told me that it couldn't be a reciprocating compressor but possibly either a scroll or a rotary one, lacking a reed that prevents this from happening, or the reed failed in it maybe. So, those reeds are for, if nothing else, maintaining the pressure difference while the compressor is off.
They have a handke bar that goes through that eye lit o. The top.of the compressor you hook.it through the eyelit and wraps the compressor which it makes them super easy to lift.
That finish on the cast components (guessing cast steel) that's rust they should be a light silver/grey 🤔 that thing must have been swimming in water for that to happen.
that bluing on the shell is likely from assembly everything will be an interference fit which they likely heat the shell up and expand it and drop it over the rotating assembly and it all locks together when the shell cools and contracts.
it's concerning how much moisture was in that system though one thing I can think of that could have contributed to the cause of the failure is the water freezing and blocking the txv and causing an intermittent high head pressure scenario.
Wonder if the recovery tank had moisture in it. Years ago had a new R134a tank that had moisture in it, drained half a cup out! luckily I used to charge it as vapour so didn't get in to the system.
The reeds are check valves to stop the scroll spinning backwards, and also they are use to let the refrigerant out of the scroll before it reaches the centre exit hole to increase efficiency in low head pressure conditions.
Nice video
I believe you're right but I don't know where you live but in Canada the freeze stat sets a code all the time especially with an economizer
I had a Trane heat pump that I worked on a bit ago that had a leak in the discharge line. I repaired the discharge line. When I evacuated it I had to change my vacuum pump oil 7 times before it had clear oil. I was beginning to think I had a leak. It was just that much moisture in the system.
JB Black Gold is the best vacuum pump oil,hands down!
Big picture diagnosis, that's interesting
I would guess the reeds and the weird shape on the scroll are to make smoother output from the compressor.
Hey - do you ever use pig mats or other oil absorbent sheets to keep the oil from getting on the roofing and for other oil cleanup?
Look out for leaks at the wiring of your pressure switches too. Seen too many lately.
Extra discharge reeds are for extreme high discharge temp. One reed acts normal and the others stay close. If the discharge temp gets really hot then the extra reeds open.
I had the same issue with oil contamination because unit came flat without any gas and another tech did a leak search pulled a vacuum i came back next cooling season found a leak and had to replace condenser, other tech doesn’t like micron gauges, so entire time pulling a vacuum he was pulling in moisture
I think the reeds there allow the unit to operate efficiently at varying compression ratios: The scroll geometry itself is designed with high ratio, the valves placed at few places allow the compressed gas to discharge if the output pressure is not that high. Mimicking how a piston compressor would operate inherently.
Without them the compressor would internally pressurize according to what ratio the geometry is designed, only then after the last pocket would get reduced by just passing as the pocket is opening to the discharge, wasting energy there.
magnets are common. the welds are spot welds.
that junk in the bearings is from a spun bearing.
@HVACR VIDEOS @33.40 were you explain how it was bit trouble some to diagnose some issues because the return air was too cool. Would be beneficial/ cost effective to carry a small 1,000-1,500 watt space heater, and place it in rooms like that? I do understand that this would only effectively work if the room is sealable, or get as close as possible to the return intake. And in some case’s may be ether impossible, or to time consuming to set up.
22:28 if moisture was from the old compressor, would that moisture cause freezing "inside" the low side?
26:51 car oil pan drain plugs are also magnetic with purpose of capturing metallic bits
It could be the commercial issue compared to the linear compressors failing in residential refrigerators. (Replaced over 65 linear compressors. AMA down below)
the return air low temp concerns me maybe a damper bypass damper issue Im guessing... scroll left running backward could of done that damage too
Good video Chris . I believe your nitro tank had CO2 instead of Nitro . Happen to me 🤭😀😅
I will discuss this on my live stream this evening on UA-cam 11/29/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/jaqX-Q3oC84/v-deo.html
To someone that understands when i was a working man the worst day of the year to work was the day after Thanksgiving. Just not into it after eating and drinking to much and hanging out with family. watching football etc. You had to fight mall traffic, extremely busy kitchens. I know i just oozed the attitude with managers IDK.
That magnet. It looks just like the magnets they put in transmission pans for cars. They are there to show if any damage has happened as it will catch metal debris in the fluid. Didn't expect to see one in a compressor that can't be opened though. I never expected the actual compressor to be such a small part of the whole unit. The motor takes up like 75 or 80% of the unit.
Spot welds if the tips wear down you may not get good fusion with every weld epically if the tips start getting too wide
I'd definitely talk to the manufacturer about that oil and try to get compensation for it including time!
Could have the moisture come from the recovery tank when you recovered and reused refrigerant from the first visit?
I will discuss this on my live stream this evening on UA-cam 11/29/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/jaqX-Q3oC84/v-deo.html
I'm going to guess the water was in your blue vacuum hose.. Perhaps an errant water hose when cleaning coils splashed onto the end when it was disconnected at your last job before before this one. Or the new compressor had the water in it.. If the old compressor had that much water in a hot compressor that mild steel would have been 100% rust on the inside even with oil splashing around. Very strange indeed.
Just curious why would you put in vapor only if your supposed to use liquid only to charge wouldn’t that cause fragmentation of the refrigerant or does it take lot of vapor charge to cause that ?
I have had water filled co2 bottles,from soda fountains that would run with no pressure,water line pressure would back fill the co2 bottles,weird when water comes out of your wire feed torch handle?
Insane!
Get your nitro only from a refrigeration or ac supply house,no moisture. Worse case of a wet system was a buffet restaurant being built by a fly by night outfit. They were kicked out. Lines on roof,open to rain. Each unit took 2 to 3 days each to hydrate with numerous pump oil changes.
i have always wondered... How different is brazing, from sweating pipes for plumbing?
So desperately need a decent HVAC tech for my house. Last guy just checked pressures when we said our pool heat pump wasn't putting out much heat and only suggested replacing the capacitor. Same for the house. Was taking forever to cool. He added refrigerant. Now heating and let temp drop night before last. Took 8 hours to raise the house temp 3deg C. Running far too long.
Our electric bill is 1000$ for the year higher than last (that's a huge increase on our Quebec rates).
I train techs on HVAC systems, but not on gauges and testing. Just familiarisation of where components are. I knkw the tech should have been looking at superheat in cooling and heating for the house and heating on the pool.
Maybe expansion valve issues with both?
why is there random walk in freezer/cooler equipment? when you were cutting the compresser?
Previous evacuation could have compromise the systems with moisture -Wrong done evacuation- I always use the 2 stages evacuation's systems machine - Good video
Notification squad on the job
See this quite often in the marine side of things...only its usually seawater...imagine the issues related to that..
Awesome video good song choice what song did you use its Awesome
The artist's name is ELFL. They're on iTunes, among others. Highly recommended.
As a mechanic I am going to comment on the LG pump. Those are not vanes those are pressure release the metal is likely spring steel or backed by a spring. The offset where the babbot bearings where the main shaft rides has that gap because it's beaviled for installation of the bearings during assembly so it slides in. The piece you said sprin open when you cut it is what is known as shrink fit they heat up the outer case slide it down till it hits the lip when the outer case cools it shrinks up against it. Shrink fit is the strongest connection short of welding and is used in a lot of fields. Magnets are normal in anything with moving metallic parts and should be in everything. It prevents metal from just bouncing around and causing excess wear. It is also used when companies cut corners they will have 2 or 3 cause they know it's junk and will run longer even though junk. Any time you see black on the shaft is indicative of high heat and if it doesn't smear it had moisture in it. The scroll housing with the extra machined space is to create a pressure differential. The hole acts like the narrowing of a txv and the extra space acts to drop the pressure to help make sure that the refrigerant is a gas and also to lower the pressure of the gas and allow for easier pumping. This has the added effect should something go wrong of it have less of a chances of slugging the compressor with liquid refrigerant. Love your videos btw. Keep on keeping on.
Hydrocarbon Oil destroys rubber.
You can use Girling rubber grease, castor oil based.
Do you uses silphos flux when brazing copper pipes?
Chris, did you let that moisture settle out to measure how many oz there were? Would the moisture content give a false reading of the state of charge you were seeing on your gauges? Did you cut the dryer apart to see if the moisture clogged it? When you drained the oil from the compressor into the orange bucket did any moisture settle out? Just thinkin.
I have noticed LG Compressors can’t handle flooded starts. I watch the condensation line on my replacement compressors. ( similar to the way you watch receivers for winter charge ) and if the condensation is high on the compressor. There is a feeding issue with the TXV. Some TXV’s can carefully be adjusted others I have to change out with an adjustable TXV. The moisture issue has to be from the factory. 😊Hope that helps.
Also micro channel coils in Phoenix on high ambient days cause flooded starts and main breaker or HP Safeties to trip and weaken. I’ve called Trane and got permission to pull out 5-10% of the charge to help prevent this issue. This happens to all many here. AAON,TRANE,LENNOX,HASKRIS ( Process chillers ) all responded after a small adjustment. Had a bunch to do this summer. Most extremes were on systems too close to a parapit wall or systems picking up discharge air from other systems. Poor condenser air flow. Hope that helps next summer. Now we get geared up for low ambient 😊
pretty good numbers for a compressor full of water
i wish that you work on my country cuz in the place that i work (which is a retail store for food) theres neve a summer that the stupid ac dont fail and mever get fixed for the full season , listening the customer angry every min is FUN :D and of course the whole winter max ac :D :D
The moisture issue with compressor is probably factory. Had a residential unit (lg) with same problem, took forever to clear up.
I will discuss this on my live stream this evening on UA-cam 11/29/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/jaqX-Q3oC84/v-deo.html
26:46 forgive my HVAC ignorance, but is that magnet to catch metal filings that may break off during its lifespan? They do this a lot in transmissions and differentials on cars....
the only time i have seen moisture like that was on a brand new unit that shipped out with a hole in the coil, and the system sat, open to the atmosphere for 6 months while we waited on the new coil to come in.... when i cut the old coil out there was literally a half to a full gallon of water that poured out of the coil. it sat on the pump for 2 days and had almost 10 oil changes.
judging by the color of that oil, you would think, there had to be an extreme about of moisture in the system, for an extended about of time, i would say if it shipped from the factory with that moisture in the system(total possibility... lol) I think it would have failed alot sooner....
Quicker to break with nitro when there is moisture in the system. I work on a lot of water cooled chillers. Triple evac is standard. Actually quicker to break with nitro
so how did the moisture get in? Water cooled condenser?
I noticed new compressors LG