Thanks for putting in the work, guys! I’d like to add one important difference between the two devices: when used for hauling, the micro traxion has almost no loss, meaning teeth engage instantly. The roll-n-lock drops about an inch of rope before engaging. This difference is significant when hauling heavy loads or rescuing. I love the roll-n-loc for solo top-roping, but I would not bring it along as say a crevasse rescue device.
I appreciate it very much. I have a bunch of thicker rope and am dipping my toes into top rope soloing. Couldn't find anywhere whether it was safe to use the roll n lock. 12 hours later I see your fall montage which answered all my questions, as I'm going to have a chest harness tend my line and never take a fall like what you demonstrated. Really, thanks a million
Nice vid, I feel completely comfortable using a microtrax (with a backup microtrax). I've tested factor 1 falls on it (150lbs, used dynamic 10.2mm with 60% life left, anchored to overhead beam, 2ft falls, aggressive kip and tuck), and it took 5 falls on the same spot on the rope to get a coreshot (~40% sheath tear, slight damage to the core). Repeated the series of tests with the same results. For added peace of mind, maybe tie a knot in the bottom of the rope to prevent complete degloving of the sheath or use a unicore rope. IMO, the panic over toothed devices is completely unjustified. Remember to tuck in loose clothing to prevent it getting sucked into the device between the cam and rope, which might prevent proper engagement.
I got the roll and lock and I love it. I released my hitch over top of it and it jammed up nicely. I recommend having a screwdriver when this happens. Not sure how you would get the petzl unjammed if you pull this maneuver like I did.
...great vid, very comprehensive ...has helped me a ton as I use the two devices for top rope soloing...and the mullet is cool/not cool...lol I had one for many years...
I have a roll'nlock and have found a potential flaw in design in that if you are using and the rope angled in a u shape above you it cams the teeth back enough to disengage the mechanism. just an fyi
Great comparison. The repeated falls on the static line looked painful lol. I respect your commitment! What is the meaning of the devices’ “efficiency” in your excel sheet?
They're referring to the efficiency of the pulley within the devices. The micro traxion has a pulley with 91% efficiency. Idk what the efficiency of the roll n lock is though.
I have an edelrid spoc much the same as micro trax , bit more efficient pulley wise ,cheaper , and a touch lighter, I think.its really dodgy to belay with these type of devices though
Hey Justin, do you really need both hands to lock RollNLock in pulley mode? Is it at all possible to do it one-handed? Is microtrax easier to open one-handed?
You are able to load both devices with one hand but when it comes to switching between modes the micro trax is definitely easier. You need two hands to switch between modes on the rollnlock because what happens is you need to apply a force in the opposite direction or else the spring will just continue to push the device back making it almost impossible to switch between modes with one hand.
Sorry but that was not a whip..........that was like a .1-.2 FF. Pretty sure the tests that showed sheath damage with a microtrax were at least above 1 FF, possibly a standard UIAA fall (aka 1.77 FF). And no I'm not expecting you to plan on taking a 1.77 FF to test this but at least do a tower drop test if you are going to say anything remotely definitive about the device.
@@JustinWallace Basically me and all my climbing partners tend to break down long roped routes into boulder problems. Like a 12b might be 20' of V2/3, a V4 move, a V5, a rest, then a V4 pump crux finish
I took a 10 foot fall (mostly rope stretch) on a Micro Traxion as a follower in a simul situation while being forcefully pulled by my partner who was on easier terrain (I was trying to on sight an 11b). Ended up that the rope sheath had an obvious nick and fuzzy area where the teeth bit in but no major nor to the core damage. Still use the rope today and use both Trax and Roll N Lock for PCUs during simuls. 185 lbs, 9.2mm rope. More to say later in what I have found in advantages and disadvantages of both devices!
Haha, 11b simul onsite that's pretty bold! Glad nobody got injured. It's amazing what our gear is capable of handling. I'd love to hear about the advantages and disadvantages you found between the devices. Always feel free to shoot me an email at jwallace.channel@gmail.com
Good comparison for two very similar devices. I prefer the micro traxion as the cam is more protected. With the RnL there's a small chance to hit the cam on an edge and release it. Make some more videos!
Thanks for the feedback! I definitely agree that it is a valid point that the cam is more protected on the micro trax. I'm also currently in the process of making a new video.
Thanks for putting in the work, guys! I’d like to add one important difference between the two devices: when used for hauling, the micro traxion has almost no loss, meaning teeth engage instantly. The roll-n-lock drops about an inch of rope before engaging. This difference is significant when hauling heavy loads or rescuing. I love the roll-n-loc for solo top-roping, but I would not bring it along as say a crevasse rescue device.
Great point, thanks for sharing!
really nice to see the fall montage and that the sheath was ok even with all that falling on slack
I appreciate it very much. I have a bunch of thicker rope and am dipping my toes into top rope soloing. Couldn't find anywhere whether it was safe to use the roll n lock. 12 hours later I see your fall montage which answered all my questions, as I'm going to have a chest harness tend my line and never take a fall like what you demonstrated.
Really, thanks a million
Glad to help!
I think we are all here for the mullet!! but the rest was also appreciated
I'm considering one of these devices for tree climbing, so super helpful to see your vid. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful!
thanks to introduce and compare 2 products!
I get a good information to choose that because of yours.
Nice vid, I feel completely comfortable using a microtrax (with a backup microtrax). I've tested factor 1 falls on it (150lbs, used dynamic 10.2mm with 60% life left, anchored to overhead beam, 2ft falls, aggressive kip and tuck), and it took 5 falls on the same spot on the rope to get a coreshot (~40% sheath tear, slight damage to the core). Repeated the series of tests with the same results. For added peace of mind, maybe tie a knot in the bottom of the rope to prevent complete degloving of the sheath or use a unicore rope. IMO, the panic over toothed devices is completely unjustified.
Remember to tuck in loose clothing to prevent it getting sucked into the device between the cam and rope, which might prevent proper engagement.
Very insightful thanks for sharing!
Guys, you are two fuckin' genius...
Buena cabros, magnífico aporte! Muchas gracias!
Came for the beta, stayed for the mullet!
I got the roll and lock and I love it. I released my hitch over top of it and it jammed up nicely. I recommend having a screwdriver when this happens. Not sure how you would get the petzl unjammed if you pull this maneuver like I did.
I thought that looked like Utah. Great video.
Liked that you actually tried to shred the rope..... I would rather it grab than slip rope can be replaced cheap enough vs you'r life
...great vid, very comprehensive ...has helped me a ton as I use the two devices for top rope soloing...and the mullet is cool/not cool...lol I had one for many years...
Glad it helped!
Sweet mullet!!!
I have a roll'nlock and have found a potential flaw in design in that if you are using and the rope angled in a u shape above you it cams the teeth back enough to disengage the mechanism. just an fyi
subbed for the mullet.
Great comparison. The repeated falls on the static line looked painful lol. I respect your commitment! What is the meaning of the devices’ “efficiency” in your excel sheet?
They're referring to the efficiency of the pulley within the devices. The micro traxion has a pulley with 91% efficiency. Idk what the efficiency of the roll n lock is though.
I love them!
Great video.
Thank you!
I have an edelrid spoc much the same as micro trax , bit more efficient pulley wise ,cheaper , and a touch lighter, I think.its really dodgy to belay with these type of devices though
lmao it turns into a jackass episode at 9:45
Hey Justin, do you really need both hands to lock RollNLock in pulley mode? Is it at all possible to do it one-handed? Is microtrax easier to open one-handed?
You are able to load both devices with one hand but when it comes to switching between modes the micro trax is definitely easier. You need two hands to switch between modes on the rollnlock because what happens is you need to apply a force in the opposite direction or else the spring will just continue to push the device back making it almost impossible to switch between modes with one hand.
good video
very useful ! subd !
Business up front,
Party out the back!!
😅😂😂
Good overview. However next time hold the item still when showing it. A closeup of a constantly moving item doesn’t work for most of us. Thx.
Thanks for the feedback! It was my first video so it’s far from perfect. Will definitely consider that next time been learning a lot about this stuff.
Your t-shirt is wrong
Sorry but that was not a whip..........that was like a .1-.2 FF. Pretty sure the tests that showed sheath damage with a microtrax were at least above 1 FF, possibly a standard UIAA fall (aka 1.77 FF). And no I'm not expecting you to plan on taking a 1.77 FF to test this but at least do a tower drop test if you are going to say anything remotely definitive about the device.
Bouldering is dumb.
Every serious climber knows bouldering is essential to sending hard routes. Good stuff tho
I can't confirm nor deny that statement
@@JustinWallace Basically me and all my climbing partners tend to break down long roped routes into boulder problems. Like a 12b might be 20' of V2/3, a V4 move, a V5, a rest, then a V4 pump crux finish
Subscribed, because I like your mullet! 👌😂
Had to cut it recently because I wanted people to take me seriously, but I can promise that it will be back!
I took a 10 foot fall (mostly rope stretch) on a Micro Traxion as a follower in a simul situation while being forcefully pulled by my partner who was on easier terrain (I was trying to on sight an 11b). Ended up that the rope sheath had an obvious nick and fuzzy area where the teeth bit in but no major nor to the core damage. Still use the rope today and use both Trax and Roll N Lock for PCUs during simuls. 185 lbs, 9.2mm rope. More to say later in what I have found in advantages and disadvantages of both devices!
Haha, 11b simul onsite that's pretty bold! Glad nobody got injured. It's amazing what our gear is capable of handling. I'd love to hear about the advantages and disadvantages you found between the devices. Always feel free to shoot me an email at jwallace.channel@gmail.com
Thank you mullet man, very informational
Haha thanks! Love the name "mullet man"
Good comparison for two very similar devices. I prefer the micro traxion as the cam is more protected. With the RnL there's a small chance to hit the cam on an edge and release it. Make some more videos!
Thanks for the feedback! I definitely agree that it is a valid point that the cam is more protected on the micro trax. I'm also currently in the process of making a new video.
@@JustinWallace I'll look for more videos. Is that the crag behind the U of U just off shoreline trail?
Ya it is. Good spot for teaching technical skills.
If using these for top rope solo on a single rope, should the microtrax go above or below the rollnlock?
Thanks for making this video folks - super helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
좋은 설명인것 갗은데요
한국어 자막. 올려 주셨으면 합니다
Good video, clear explanation and decent details. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
My roll n lock won't grip a weighted rope.
Roll n lock is a flawed. former fan, but too many failure modes vs microtrax
Great content! Thanks for posting :)
Thank you too!