Thanks Vito for explaining this pressure process, terminology, parts involved, abbreviations, and especially the safety aspects to work on this practical/shiny equipment!
I am doing this now with Grafs in a regular corny keg with a keg land spunding valve and a Flotit from Home Brewer Lab. It is perfect for starting pressure fermentation and I can serve clear stuff with the double filtered floating dip tube. I just cold crash a little and let it rest for maybe a few days and it's basically already carbonated. I often add 30psi for a few days and it's crazy how easy it is.
@@lordredbeard7791this is what I do, I don’t even chill anymore, it goes into corny keg straight from boil, takes a day or two to cool, during that time I use wort from the boil to make a starter. Pitch it when it’s down to temp and use a keg land spunding valve, when it’s done cold crash and serving from same vessel. I don’t keep beer around long enough to care about the trub, if you do care you can use another corny, use the co2 from Fermentation to purge the second keg and then just transfer over. No oxygen and no trub, glorious.
@@steve1144 yup. I they also make 6 gallon corny kegs specifically for fermenting, I don’t bother. Just ferment in a 5 gallon and get the 4-4.5 gallons from it.
The colder the temp the easier for cO2 to make it's way into solution and you do want that cO2 to help scrub the beer to some extent. With that said, I've been fermenting my lager style beers at 52-54F under 3-5 psi and then letting it degass (pull the PRV a few times) during the d-rest before raising the spunding PSI and cold crashing.
In my experience, I have to leave the CO2 in until fermentation takes off. If you remove the CO2 in after bringing the wort up to pressure, won't that CO2 dissolve the wort and drop the pressure until active fermentation starts?
Ensure the set point and all pieces of hardware are accurate before fermentation. I'm definitely a measure twice cut once type of person. But you could definitely set it and forget it as well! 🍻
@@vitodelucchi7347in this video you cover the spunding valve and gauge but the kit I purchased from brewbuilt also includes a large PRV as well. How does that work with this setup. Also, instead of a + setup like the pictures on the website, you utilized each component of the pressure kit on different ports. Will that work the same? Thanks
@@jasonskopp Jason, sorry for the confusion. The box that was sent to me to not include the larger PRV. So I just mentioned the smaller one welded on the lid of the tank. Definitely use the larger one that's included as well. For position you always want to put your PRV at the highest point possible. Hope this helps, let us know if you have any questions.
I'm a little surprised not to see a 15 PSI safety PRV and blow-off pipe. Be careful with high kräusen and the spunding valve getting plugged. ⚠ I'd like to see the spunding valve with a safety PRV and analog pressure gauge (which BrewBuilt sells as their "Fermenting Under Pressure Kit") on one of the two 1.5" tri-clamp ports which are directly welded to the lid and a 4" tri-clamp hop drop (with a 4" tri-clamp butterfly valve) on the 4" tri-clamp port of the 8" tri-clamp adapter cap, rather than a tiny 1.5" tri-clamp hop bong. 👍
Could not agree more, safety first! For those who missed it, I cover the PRV and safety at 1:04 and 4:15 in this video. Please if you take anything away from this video, remember to always use a fermenter with PRV and check the valve before working with any ports. Cheers 🍻
@@vitodelucchi7347 You demonstrated the use of the X3 built-in pull ring valve in order to manually release pressure. I'm referring to the use of a safety PRV which automatically releases pressure when it exceeds the unitank maximum operating pressure (15 PSI in this case). BrewBuilt includes a 15 PSI safety PRV (along with their spunding valve and analog pressure gauge) as part of their "Fermenting Under Pressure Kit". As BrewBuilt points out in the product description, "On all brewery pro tanks, a tri-clamp (safety) PRV is always installed in addition to a Spunding Valve. This is because a Spunding Valve still has the potential to clog. The pro PRV has a very wide interior body as to reduce the risk of clogging. The PRV is non-adjustable and comes preset to relieve pressure at 15 PSI." Always use an automatic 15 PSI safety PRV in pressure fermenting the X3. Be safe. Cheers! 👍
Between the 1.5 spunding and keg style prv you should be fine. Clogging that spunding would take an enormous feat of krausen to begin with considering when you pressure ferment it also suppresses the level of krausen.
Thanks Vito for explaining this pressure process, terminology, parts involved, abbreviations, and especially the safety aspects to work on this practical/shiny equipment!
Thanks Vito, good information.
Good review, covered all the basics. I do love pressure fermenting my lagers for a super crisp clean finish.
As always I’m happy to be here I’m learning more and more each video released and I look forward to the Friday streams and giveaway ❤
I am really looking forward to add this fermentor to my brewing gadgets!!! Thanks for the good content!
This was very helpful
I am doing this now with Grafs in a regular corny keg with a keg land spunding valve and a Flotit from Home Brewer Lab. It is perfect for starting pressure fermentation and I can serve clear stuff with the double filtered floating dip tube. I just cold crash a little and let it rest for maybe a few days and it's basically already carbonated. I often add 30psi for a few days and it's crazy how easy it is.
A corny keg is a quick and easy way to do this also. I just put it in the fridge after fermentation for conditioning and serving.
Frigging gorgeous kit Vito. I'm jealous 😢
Great job.
The pressure is on🎉!!😅
Pressure fermentation is my go to in the hot summer.
thanks, much better
While I truly appreciate this video, is there a way you could show us, less well off home brewers, how to do it on a sub $500 setup?
Used corny keg, spunding valve, floating dip tube. Should cost roughly $100-$110 give or take.
@@lordredbeard7791 do you just get a little less volume of finished beer?
@@lordredbeard7791this is what I do, I don’t even chill anymore, it goes into corny keg straight from boil, takes a day or two to cool, during that time I use wort from the boil to make a starter. Pitch it when it’s down to temp and use a keg land spunding valve, when it’s done cold crash and serving from same vessel. I don’t keep beer around long enough to care about the trub, if you do care you can use another corny, use the co2 from Fermentation to purge the second keg and then just transfer over. No oxygen and no trub, glorious.
@@steve1144 yup. I they also make 6 gallon corny kegs specifically for fermenting, I don’t bother. Just ferment in a 5 gallon and get the 4-4.5 gallons from it.
Thank you @@lordredbeard7791
I use pressure at room temp. What would happen if you used pressure at lager or pilsner temps, say 50 degrees.
The colder the temp the easier for cO2 to make it's way into solution and you do want that cO2 to help scrub the beer to some extent. With that said, I've been fermenting my lager style beers at 52-54F under 3-5 psi and then letting it degass (pull the PRV a few times) during the d-rest before raising the spunding PSI and cold crashing.
@@vitodelucchi7347 Thanks for the info, just what I needed to know.
Sweet
In my experience, I have to leave the CO2 in until fermentation takes off. If you remove the CO2 in after bringing the wort up to pressure, won't that CO2 dissolve the wort and drop the pressure until active fermentation starts?
Do you need to use gas before fermentation? Or can you set the dial to the pressure you want amd just let the gas from fermentation ?
Love it keep it up
👍
Whats the reasoning to bring it up to 5 PSI in your example? Why not just let it come up on it's own, and save some gas while your at it.
Ensure the set point and all pieces of hardware are accurate before fermentation. I'm definitely a measure twice cut once type of person. But you could definitely set it and forget it as well! 🍻
@@vitodelucchi7347in this video you cover the spunding valve and gauge but the kit I purchased from brewbuilt also includes a large PRV as well. How does that work with this setup. Also, instead of a + setup like the pictures on the website, you utilized each component of the pressure kit on different ports. Will that work the same? Thanks
I should add that I have the x3 as well
@@jasonskopp Jason, sorry for the confusion. The box that was sent to me to not include the larger PRV. So I just mentioned the smaller one welded on the lid of the tank. Definitely use the larger one that's included as well. For position you always want to put your PRV at the highest point possible. Hope this helps, let us know if you have any questions.
I'm a little surprised not to see a 15 PSI safety PRV and blow-off pipe. Be careful with high kräusen and the spunding valve getting plugged. ⚠
I'd like to see the spunding valve with a safety PRV and analog pressure gauge (which BrewBuilt sells as their "Fermenting Under Pressure Kit") on one of the two 1.5" tri-clamp ports which are directly welded to the lid and a 4" tri-clamp hop drop (with a 4" tri-clamp butterfly valve) on the 4" tri-clamp port of the 8" tri-clamp adapter cap, rather than a tiny 1.5" tri-clamp hop bong. 👍
Could not agree more, safety first! For those who missed it, I cover the PRV and safety at 1:04 and 4:15 in this video. Please if you take anything away from this video, remember to always use a fermenter with PRV and check the valve before working with any ports. Cheers 🍻
@@vitodelucchi7347 You demonstrated the use of the X3 built-in pull ring valve in order to manually release pressure. I'm referring to the use of a safety PRV which automatically releases pressure when it exceeds the unitank maximum operating pressure (15 PSI in this case).
BrewBuilt includes a 15 PSI safety PRV (along with their spunding valve and analog pressure gauge) as part of their "Fermenting Under Pressure Kit". As BrewBuilt points out in the product description, "On all brewery pro tanks, a tri-clamp (safety) PRV is always installed in addition to a Spunding Valve. This is because a Spunding Valve still has the potential to clog. The pro PRV has a very wide interior body as to reduce the risk of clogging. The PRV is non-adjustable and comes preset to relieve pressure at 15 PSI."
Always use an automatic 15 PSI safety PRV in pressure fermenting the X3. Be safe. Cheers! 👍
Between the 1.5 spunding and keg style prv you should be fine. Clogging that spunding would take an enormous feat of krausen to begin with considering when you pressure ferment it also suppresses the level of krausen.
@@scotttower956 I'd be more comfortable if @vitodelucchi7347 had incorporated the blow-off pipe included with the X3.