DIY GUIDE - REJETTING THE PREDATOR 3500 INVERTER GENERATOR! RESOLVES A COMMON SUPER RICH CONDITION
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 січ 2020
- ✩✩Links to the items I use in this video along with more info located below - check it! Purchasing your items from my links helps me do what I do and create more content - Your help is appreciated!✩✩
STOCK JET ON THE 2ND GEN PREDATOR 3500 (OIL DOOR ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE) IS A #82. IN THE 2ND GEN, UNLESS YOU ARE HAVING FOULING PROBLEMS OR, IF AT ALTITUDE - BUY A #78 AND SEE HOW THAT GOES. OTHERWISE, DO NOT CHANGE THE JET ON THE 2ND GEN.
BUY DIFFERENT JETS FOR THE PREDATOR 3500 OR VARIANTS HERE:
ebay.us/GzV3Mk
STA-BIL FUEL STABILIZER! IF YOU STORE YOUR GEN WITH GAS IN IT, THIS IS A MUST! (not really needed with ethanol free fuel)
amzn.to/3cGW4TZ
In this video, I resolve a super common issue with the predator 3500 inverter generator... a very rich running condition which clogs the spark arrestor and fouls plugs rather easily. Not to mention, uses more fuel than it needs.
For my application, it seems a #68 jet did the trick. Plug looked perfect, very slightly on the lean side under a nearly 100% load / 24.5A out of the continuous rated 25A output. This was at 1100ft altitude in Arizona / around 60F. I feel a 72 would be better if the gen was always run at lower altitude.
Most of the time, my gen is at 5-7K feet. While it ran at higher altitudes, it would only start on the run setting and really struggled on the start setting which is technically choke. So I would just start it in the run position but ran super rich. Luckily - it never skipped a beat and kept us powered when we needed it for going on 2 years now! And here in Phoenix at 1100ft, it still ran rich! You could smell it anytime it was running and plug was always black. The case is so well sealed on these... the stock jet just provides too much fuel and my small case mod (holes drilled) did not correct this.
Looking forward to camping season and seeing how the gen runs in the mountains now!
I will also continue to monitor this setup and note any corrections here. If you are at lower altitude / higher temps and such I would recommend a #72 jet. But for now... for me... the #68 was the ticket.
I wanted to make one more note... 2 years of running this gen and letting it sit for weeks to months at a time and the bowl on the carb was spotless! Sta-bil fuel stabilizer for the win! USE IT.
This covers any generator running a honda or honda clone hemi motor such as..
- Echo Bear Cat IG3500
- Powerhorse LC3500i
- BE i3500L
- Loncin LC3500i
- Atlas Copco P3500i
- JET JIN3500E
- DR PRO 3500i
- And of course the much loved Predator 3500
(Probably 10 other private labels too..)
✩ All Mr. Garage videos are for educational, inspirational and DIY purposes.
All items featured in my videos are purchased at normal prices and not provided to me or discounted in exchange for any services or features. I do all I can to give my experience and opinions to you to help you learn, form ideas or generate your own opinions.
✩ The legal:
Mr. Garage is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate-advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
Mr. Garage is a participant in the EBay Affiliates Program, an affiliate-advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Ebay.com
FTC Disclosure Statement: Some links on this UA-cam channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. As an EBay Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
PLEASE - DO YOUR RESEARCH before making a decision based on information you find on UA-cam, or anywhere else when it comes to anything you do, the environment, or your safety and sanity. Due to factors beyond the control of Mr. Garage, Mr. Garage assumes no liability for injury or property damage incurred as a result of the presentation of this information contained in this video or any of the other Mr. Garage videos. Mr. Garage recommends safe practices including the use of personal protective equipment such as eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, guards, shields, and respiratory protective devices when working on anything using tools or devices
Thanks for the video my predator generator has been running rough here in Denver at 6000 feet. Didn’t think about changing the jet out. Appreciate the help. Bought a jet from six sigma #68 and installed, seems to be running much better.
Todd, I'm in Monument and just camped in Taylor Park at 9700'. The generator continues to die. I considered returning it, but started researching. What jet did you end up with?
Thank you so much! This was one of my issues along with a weak spark! Now I’m up and running again!!!
Awesome to hear!
Thank you for the video. My generator ran great for about 200 hours then started running very rich. Put in a 70 jet, ran it for an hour with a 1500 watt space heater plugged in and the spark plug came out looking great. Before even a few minutes would turn the plug black and the engine sputtered and you could smell the sunburnt gas. Thanks again.
Good deal - happy to help!
what altitude are you at? did you have to change out the emulsion tube as well?
Great info.. will be doing this. Thanks
Thank you. This really helped me out.
Great Video!
Thanks!
Great video!! Thank you for sharing your experience with the Predator. We have a travel trailer that should arrive in a couple of weeks. We live at 8000 feet up in Colorado and will predominantly boondock. I don't know what generator we will get yet, but I feel your tips here will apply nicely to whatever we get (high altitude jet, no ethanol fuel, clean spark arrestor, and don't leave fuel in carb for non use time).
Safe travels!
Thanks man! Great gen!
This is interesting to me as I am in the process of jetting my Predator down from the .76mm. I currently have a .75mm in it with little to no change. Going down to .70 next. I am at 11 ft sea level. Thanks for sharing.
The .70 should be the ticket. Sounds like one of the jet sets from china? Good price for a lot of jets if that is the case! I have a set on order too. And yes... .76 to .75 is virtually nothing. Depending on the machine work... might even measure the same with a pin gauge! Would just have to check.
How did it turn out?
Great video!
I carry 2 predator generators on my 5th wheel when boondocking. I’m ordering both the #72 & #68 jets so I’m prepared for any elevation.
Where did you buy the #72 jets?
@@detailingcouple4470 Check out the video description above (click show more). Link takes you right to the jet ordering page.
i have that very same ratchet. soo handy
VERY HELPFUL....LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED...THANK YOU.
Thanks boss! You rock !
Mr. Garage thank you for thumbs-up, I'm new to the 3500 still in break-in. We camp a lot at 6,000 to 9,000 feet .and looking at others , sounds like I may need a 68 . I know some where in comments is the CO. V power ? Thank you So Much.
Awesome
I have run my Predator 3500 for the last two years at Mammoth Lakes area (around 9k elevation) with no problem...original jet. As you can see in this video, changing it out is a PITA! And then needing to change it again when you get home so it doesn't run lean?? No thanks.
All I did was running an NGK Iridium plug of the proper heat range (sorry don't remember which one) and drilled out the cover on the case to allow more airflow. Ran great, no problem. Yeah, you lose some power (like any gas engine at altitude), but it got the job done, no jet change. I'm sure it was running rich, but the increased air flow and Iridium plug seem to allow it to work fine. YMMV.
Clearly, you need a new tool box if you are running out of room for stickers. Excellent video and advice for the 3500 generator!
Agreed I do! Been keeping an eye out. And thanks!
This makes the savings from the Honda all worth while!
I’ve had our Predator 3500 for 2 years. Used almost exclusively on RV running 15K air conditioning and/or microwave. Usually running below 3000 and has always been rich. Recent trip to Nevada and 6000 feet choked it to a stop. I pulled the Spark arrester and totally plugged. Cleaned that out but still so rich barely ran and chewed thru gas.
Just installed the 68 at sea level and radically improved.
Question on drilling holes in side cover. Why? To let hot air out? It doesn’t seem connected to air intake. Also, the air box seems to be fed thru that one tube? Seems small
I don’t want to unnecessarily increase noise but like it to run best possible
The holes with an early attempt from others work to cure the rich condition. The motor has an enternal fan / cooling assembly which puts the case in a near vacuum. Most of the air is sucked past the inverter from the control panel side of the case. When I really dug into it, I found a jet cures the issue without need for drilling the case. I noticed you said a #68 at sealevel. Watch that spark plug, it is likely running lean now. But should run flawless if you are say 2K feet or up.
I live in the SoCal high desert at 2300’ elevation and went the the 68 jet from 6 sigma. Call me crazy, but not only does it run smoother and not as rich, but it seems to me to run quieter.
I bought one made in 2022 and sold in NC.
It had a 74 jet stock.
Good to know - have not seen a brand new prod with a #74 yet.
I ordered the two jets and found a 78 jet in my gen set. I have one of the initial runs of the unit but from the Illinois area where I purchased. I'm also in the gold canyon area now but the plug didn't look that bad. I put in a 72 jet so we'll see how that goes. I have not used the gen all that much though. I also drilled the air holes like yours as I thought that was a much better look. Thanks so much for this information.
I was working the 'rich' problem and came across another video that explained that "breather" on the air filter cover is part of the emissions control system that pulls vapors from the gas tank which will richen the mixture. There's a kit out there to delete that feature, but then you have to vent the gas cap.
It can cause the rich condition for sure, especially when they are overfilled. Do NOT top off the gen with fuel if you want it to run decent with the charcoal canister. Topping it off causes the problem as it floods the canister.
I have this generator also and did the canister delete and my cap is vented from the factory. When hunting I had snow on the top of the generator plugging the vent and it died. I did the delete when I got home and the generator never shut off. Maybe it’s a newer design, about a year old.
nice video thank you for the time helping us on such a piece of equipment yours after the jet mod seem to run spot on i like mose have a question about sea level i live in connecticut and wonder the correct jet would be it would be for my house as a stand by unit really yours ran so good without much modes.
So many variables - best to check and see how it is running per your spark plug. If your gen is clogging the spark arrestor quickly and plug is a mess, consider starting with say a #72 jet. See how it goes.
@@MR_Garage thank you
@@MR_Garage yes sir I have my jet off its a 76 as well my emulsion tube dropped like yours it came out so quick I don't know what end goes in first can you point me in a direction please
i found a link on you tube for correct way thanks again ill let you know how it went
@@t57f100 which end goes in first?
Have you done any testing as far as temperature? If your like 7k and 50 degrees that can be a different jetting. Obviously I wouldn't be running A/C in my 5th wheel with that temp, so maybe this is a mute point. I did put a 68 in as I live at 4500 feet. My plug was definitely black before.
Also I have dealt with sand issues where I have camped and have seen my idle surge up and down. The fix for that is to pull the idle jet and clean it. Fixes it every time. I have seen other comments about surging and I bet it's just a dirty idle jet. There is videos on the idle surging.
Great info, just ordered some. Apparently they have an ebay storefront and they're out in Arizona. I have 2 of them and course there is a love/hate relationship with them. The love is is the price point since I can purchase 2 for the price of 1 EU3000is. The hate is the problem of it running rich even at near sea level and dealing with the clogging of the spark arrestor.
My mods I made to it was removing the starting battery and converted the electric start switch to serve as an emergency ignition kill switch. Now, I am able turn the engine selection knob to the "off" position which cuts off the fuel supply and allow the engine to continue to run thus burning out the remaining fuel in the carburetor bowl.
My next project will be converting one of them to be a tri-fuel unit. Living in a subtropical zone and dealing with tropical cyclones (hurricanes), I've noticed that there is always a "run" on gasoline, but I can get plenty of propane till my wallet is empty and if the filling station have power. Other option is the cylinder exchange route. The tradeoff is you do lose some generating capacity due to propane's inherent low btu output per pound vs gasoline. However, it burns much cleaner than gasoline and it doesn't beat up as badly.
Good mod! I never did like the fact I could not run the gen until the bowl was empty.
Mr. Garage exactly, if I wanted to keep the electric start feature I would convert the econo mode switch to serve as my engine on/off switch. Most cases I don’t have any use for the low idle mode due to the loads that I run on it is pretty much constant at the normal idle speed anyway.
I’ve seen some install a separate engine on/off switch or just unplug the connector that leads behind the fuel valve inside the control panel, but it will be engine off when the remaining fuel burns out of the carb only. I don’t personally feel comfortable doing it that way since I have no means of killing the ignition in an emergency.
Interesting im at 2500 ft 80 degres ,and with a smoge delete and 5 1/2" holes in the air filter lid mine is running well.carb is stock .
Yes, they certainly run rich. Thanks for the info.
I also believe that the case chokes air at the case air inlet.
Has anyone improved the air flow into the case reducing the negative pressure caused by carb intake?
Thanks again for the video. rd
Hello, There are a lot of mods surrounding the near vacuum in the case :) Some sell aftermarket oil fill doors that are vented. Others, drill holes in the honeycomb area to allow more air and remove the foam behind it. And yet others just remove the oil fill door while it is running. I have not confirmed it, but I am told by another enthusiast that the air intake is actually over the electronics to help cool them. So a fine balance between increasing air inside the case and limiting air across the electronics. I chose the honeycomb drilling mod (can see it in another generator video of mine on maintenance). Provides extra airflow, but the normal air channels are still moving air. Verified by placing a piece of paper over 1/4 of the holes I added and the negative pressure keeps the paper stuck to the side.
@@MR_Garage Yes,
mods to the case (battery door, drilling holes elsewhere, etc.) undoubtedly reduce internal case vacuum and improve the air starved carb issue but perhaps at the expense of electronics cooling.
The case inlet targets airflow over the electronics. My concept is to remove the air restriction at the existing air inlet thereby improving air volume/flow which will reduce the internal case vacuum and give the now air starved/fuel rich carb more air.
Some are addressing the rich condition with less fuel (smaller carb jets) which has output implications. How about with more air? More air = more power.
@@rickdunagan5779 I like it - see how it turns out. Improved air over electronics plus even out A/F would be a win. Note that... with my oil door removed, it still ran rich! Just a bit too much jet really. Seems they just use the same for all 212cc models, a #76. A note, I have never had a problem running full tilt even at altitude so power has never been a problem even stinky, black plug rich. Keep us update on your mods!
Just got this generator and plan to run at 9k feet here in Utah most of the time. Any updates on the mods? 68 jet, or drill oil fill door? Both?
Now that you have been running that generator with the 68 jet in the carb, how has it been doing. How about a two year review. I also have this same generator. It has been running just fine. I'm at about the 2,500 foot level most of the time, but I will be going up to about 6,500 feet occasionally. I installed a 72 jet about a 6 months ago, but have not had a chance to try it at altitude. How has yours been doing?
For some reason my "off" does not shut off the fuel. It just keeps on spilling out the bowl release.
This is a great video, thank you! I’m a bit new to fine-tuning small gas engines, but I am in the opposite situation from most of the commenters here. I live at 7200’, and will be using this generator anywhere from 6000’ and higher. If a 68 jet works well for you at 1100’, is it safe to presume I’d need to go even smaller to maximize my performance way up here? Perhaps a 65 or even 62? I know the tell-all will be how the generator runs, but I’d like to narrow my order down to maybe 2 jets and not have to by 4 or 5 different sizes. Just looking for a reasonable starting point I suppose. Or maybe my assumption is incorrect... Thanks again for all the great information and the video!
68 is borderline lean at my low altitude. I primarily camp around 7K feet and the gen runs excellent, although a tad on the rich side but not bad. If you take away any more fuel with say a 65, you start to drop power output. Try the 68 first, may be the ticket for you.
@@MR_Garage Makes sense, thanks for the reply!
I went with the #70 jet. I’m at about 1200 ft above sea level 85 degrees today. I have an aftermarket oil door that’s vented and have removed the evap system and vented the gas cap. Ran the generator for 20 min at load 22amps. With the #70 jet it is way to lean. I warmed up the generator with the old plug, removed it and put a brand new plug in. Ran at load for 20min. Pulled plug and did a plug chop. This is the only way to properly read a plug. I have ordered a #72 jet and will do the same procedure when it arrives. But at 1200 above sea level with a #68 or #70 will most likely end in engine failure due to a lean condition.
At your altitude, a #72 may be best - just depends. Did you test to see if your gen was super rich prior to jetting?
Mr. Garage, the plug that I removed was black. But I didn’t do a plug chop with the #76 jet for a true reading. I may do that while I wait for the #72’s to come in.
The only way it is too lean on a 4 stroke is if you aren't making power or you are getting detonation... 2 strokes get lubrication from the fuel so leaning out makes them hotter and less lubricated which results in failure (ends up burning the lubrication that is there too). 4 strokes on the other hand aren't going to get as hot when ran lean and don't get lubrication from the fuel either. If you are running lean you can get detonation which can cause damage but that is a different failure mode than 2 stroke leaning out...
I took the carb apart to clean it up, and cannot figure out which side of the tube goes in first.
Wow this is a great video. Im getting a Predator 3500 and was wondering if you think this would be a good mod at "Sea Level" ??? In Florida
At sea level, go with a slightly larger jet. Say .70 or .72. The company I linked offers a .72 I believe. That is what I would use per my experience with my gen and knowing how it runs on the .68 at my altitude.
Just bought one of these today. Had a few troublesome electrical outages here in Prescott. Watched your video...great info. Will be using the Pred 3500 mostly for backup during long outages. I'm at 5300 feet elevation here in Prescott. Which jet size would you recommend? Do you think that they may have cured the jet problem, or do you think it's the same as when you had it? Thanks.
Same #76 jet they have been putting in it since day 1. Others have mentioned a different jet in some models and elevations, but when they check the actual jet, still a #76. In Prescott, I would run a #68 for sure.
@@MR_Garage Thanks...will do..
I have a 3500 and have had it for about 4 plus years so far. I am having a problem right now with mine. When I go to turn it off it keeps wanting to run and chug, and like it's dying but just won't shut off for about 5 minutes. Any advice?
What size do you recommend for running this generator down in Dallas, Tx? I’m a mobile Detailer and I just purchased mines from a side vendor. I normally change the oil, spark plug and filter when I buy a used generator. But, seeing how smooth yours is running what would you recommend?
Run the gen first and check the plug and spark arrestor. Can make a determination then.
What jet size is recommended for 850 ft elevation?
Great video and very informative - thank you! Off subject but the carb drain lines (assuming correct terminology) on the right join in a plastic T. My T was broken and completely separated. Does it matter and is there an easy fix or way to get the part from HF without returning the whole generator? Do you have a Facebook page? I looked but did not see one.Thank You!
Hey Michael,
You could just get a 1/8th plastic tee to fix (I think the line was 1/8). And ABS plastic tee should work fine. Likely can pick up in landscaping at home depot - verify hose diameter first. Adding, I do not have a FB page dedicated to Mr. Garage and my projects. I just post here.
@@MR_Garage Excellent - thank you!
Hello I'm hoping you can help me out. I just picked one of these generators and I have looked into why it kinda runs like crap, and what I have found is the only "fresh air" intake is from the charcoal canister that pulls air from the gas tank, that's why they always run rich. Why dose pulling off the oil door fix the running issue? I do plan on pulling the canister out because that seems to resolve all the problems, but for the life of me I can't figure out what pulling in air from the oil fill door resolves the issue, since the carb can only get air from the gas tank, and I don't see any air intake holes on the front cover of the air filter (other that the hose that runs up to the canister) Thanks!
Hello,
Sounds like your gen has been overfilled with gas at least once. This will cause fuel to run down into the charcoal canister and saturate it. Also saturates the air filter in some cases. Do NOT overfill the gen higher than the bottom of the screen under the cap. If you never overfill it and once the canister is dry, people have no problems. Pulling off the oil door likely just gives it enough additional airflow to run. Betting it is running super rich right now.
Great video. What city (altitude) are you in? I'm in Texas 6-800' above sea level and tried two things to lean it out. I eliminated the charcoal canister (to lean it out) and popped in a 75 jet. It still blackenes the spark arrestor with that setup. What jet would you guys reccomend I order? (I have a 72 jet on hand but havent installed it due to time constraints) Trying to do this and be done with it. Thanks in advance!
I bet a 72 will do it. The 75 would barely make any difference at all.
I am at under 1000 feet elevation and plan to install a propane conversion kit and only run propane. Is changing the jets still recommended in my case?
The propane conversion kits such as tri-fuel's kit does not mention any carb mods. I have not added one to mine, best to ask the kit manufacturer.
Thanks a million for this video and info! I really appreciate it! I have 2 quick questions:
1) Are there any noteworthy differences between the Predator and the other five brands?
2) Would the generator still show signs of running rich if it were run with standard E-10 gasoline instead of ethanol-free gasoline?
Thanks again!
1 Primarily looks like front panel layout differences and color. The latest predator 3500 model adds a fuel gauge which is awesome. 2 All we have is crap ethanol gas here with no puregas stations. Still runs rich as a pig unless jetted properly.
@@MR_Garage I'm also in the Phoenix valley. If you use the generator mostly for backup power, I recommend keeping a few gallons of Sunoco 99 octane around. I get mine from a shop in Phoenix. While expensive, being racing fuel it stores well and is much better to mix for 2-cycle engines.
Just wanted to add, because I haven't seen it anywhere yet. I just bought a brand new predator 3500 from harbor freight that seems to be different from yours and every other 3500 before. The airbox designs different and a few other things are different but primarily relating to this video the jet size is 82 from the factory. I bought a 70 jet thinking I had a 76 in there and the thing did not idle at all at full load with the 70. I think I need to try coming down to a 76 or 78 instead, FYI for everybody out there rejetting their predators
If anybody is interested I would be willing to mail you my 70 jet for your stock 76 jet. Send me a message thank you
This is really good info, not sure how I missed this post. And yes, the newer rev has the oil door on the opposite side. What did you end up with jet wise? Also, I would monitor the spark plug before changing. Did you actually end up needing to re-jet?
@@MR_Garage So it ran like complete shit with the 70 jet obviously, wouldn't really even idle, the revs would ramp way up then down, and almost stall. Put back in the old jet and it ran fine again.. Replaced the spark plug at the same time and it's ran completely fine. Have used it for about 40hrs since. I live in SoCal at sea level
Seems the new version is more fuel hungry, especially at idle. How is the plug and arrestor with the stock jet at sea level?
@@MR_Garage Removed the spark arrestor after the first weekend I used it, it was already pretty dirty but generator still ran fine without any issues when it was on it. Plug looks fine so far as well, no burning or anything from what I can see. I also drilled some holes in the outside of the airbox for additional air flow at the same time.
Can you give the part numbers of the jet kit you bought. Part numbers for the jets?
O went to the source you mentioned that sell the jets and it was like trying to find a needle in a haystack.
Link in the video description. There is a drop down menu in that listing in which you can quickly pick the jet size you are after.
Just out of curiosity, what is the part number of the iridium plug that you're running?
ngk bpr7eix
Hello, I have a question, my generator has a "maintenance time" symbol that looks like a key, why did it appear?
It comes on at 200 hours. It is stated that it cannot be reset (stated in other manuals like the powerhorse model of the same generator).
What is the website you are ordering from?
Great video, one question we're we live the Average temperature: 74.15°F and the elevation 438 ft, which one will you recommend? Thanks !
Very nice weather, but comes down to reading the plug after it has been run under load. See how rich it is running. May or may not need correction at that altitude.
I am in the process of taking off the .076 jet and putting in the .072 jet mine is brand new never run so I'll see how it goes.i live in Connecticut which is 500 approx from sea level so see how it goes.this man saved a load of headaches for sure.
Just updated my jet and see how it goes I'm .,072 will see thx again
@@t57f100 how'd it perform on the 0.72?
6sigma shows main jet and pilot jet, which jet did you get ? #68 main ?
I just worked the main jet and ran a #68. If you are below 2K feet mostly, could try a #70 or #72 if they have one.
On 6sigma website I only see jet kits in stage 1 thru 7. Which one has the #68 jet?
Easiest to go through their ebay link. Their page is confusing. www.ebay.com/itm/Predator-212-cc-Honda-Clone-GX160-GX200-GX390-Intake-Carburetor-Carb-Main-Jet/232104529620?hash=item360a820ed4:g:ZlkAAOSwOyJX9X7D
Nice ... interested in your results over time. I'm enjoying my 3500 and just ran it today (maintenance).
Any idea what a good replacement plug NKG maybe for the Predator 9000 would be (part number)
I do not know what plug the 9K uses. If you give me a PN I can make a recommendation!
I live in south texas so this shouldn't be a problem.
i'm in austin and it's causing me issues. the spark arrestor gets black after about an hour after using it and the brand new spark plug i put in (NGK) fouled after an hour as well
Please let us know the 6 Sigma carburator jet kit# that is being used in this episode.
Link is in the video description. At that link, there is a drop down menu to pick out what jet you would like.
Mine rings on choke but not in run if I did this and cleaned the jet without changing it out would that help?
Indeed, pull the bowl and clean the emulsion tube and jet. Should be good to go!
@@MR_Garage I can't get the jet loose....
So I’m at 4400 elevation. Had to clean spark arrestor multiple times and very black sooty plug.
Put in the #68 jet and runs good, but I can’t run the RV air conditioner and microwave at the same time. I guess I’ll have to trade that convenience for it running more proper. I’m guessing going to a 65 won’t pick up any HP?
Did you check amperage draw for the pair? Normally, the AC will draw around 14A if this is a 13.5K BTU AC. Microwave will draw around 10A. This puts you right at the max the generator can produce. Now, if you have your fridge or electric side of the hot water on at the same time, you will overload the generator. Also, the charge converter will draw 1-2A at idle. Should not be a HP thing - just running out of juice! Easy to do with the monitor on the generator. Last, try turning the microwave down to say 70% power. See how things go once you verify other items like the fridge and hot water are off.
Yeah. The microwave shows 12 amps by itself and the ac is about 15-16 amps. It ran both on factory yet, but it won’t with the #68. I get the total is over the 25 amps rated, just surprised after the rejet it couldn’t do the same as before. Granted at 4K feet elevation it’s loosing 10-13% due to air density and it was 102 degrees during test. Just an observation. Thank you for this video! I made one similar to this.
My stock 3500 won’t run our RV and AC at the same time, I’m thinking your issue is not related to the rejetting of the engine. 🤷🏻♂️
@@Ryan.Willis mine either
I just came back from camping. I cannot run my a/c and microwave at the same time. This is with stock jetting. I will be lowering my jetting, plug is pretty black.
Jet recommendation for 520' above sea level please?
May be just fine at 520'. See how it looks on the plug and spark arrestor.
do i need to consider a rejet on mine even though i live down on the Texas gulf coast being barely above sea level?
Depends on how it is running now? Check plug and spark arrestor.
Am in California 200 feet sea level do you think a 68 will still work????
How rich is it running currently? All comes down to reading the plug after running under load.
Awesome video! Thanks! What plug are you running? Do you happen to know the plug #?
@@MR_Garage bad link
Sorry boss, here is a working link! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BUEL60/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003BUEL60&linkCode=as2&tag=mrgarage-20&linkId=12001a7684c1a75b4f4668505ca91c14
Also, be sure to check out this video. ua-cam.com/video/b5VgQ_AKCdY/v-deo.html
That #68 jet you put in, is that a 10x5mm or 10x6mm.
I did not check the dimensions - just ordered per the spec from sixsigma
Do other generators in this class also run rich? Or is this just a predator 3500 thing? If I bought a firman or a wen in this size would I have the same issue?
This seems to be a thing more with this gen and all variants of this loncin design. It is such a simple, quick mod - I did not bat an eye for the price paid.
could you tell me what spark plug your using?
NGK BPR7EIX www.sparkplugs.com/product.aspx?zpid=9492
I'm at elevation 1,092 in Ohio. Should I leave it alone or would the #68 benefit me too?
How does your spark arrestor and plug look? Both black after running hard or?
I just bought this generator yesterday. Is this still an issue with the current unit? If so I’ll get to performing this mod right away.
Best bet is to let it run under load / break in. When done, see how the plug looks and spark arrestor.
So you replaced the MAIN JET or pilot jet?
Main jet
Can i try a 68 and if it's too lean can i drill it to a larger size?
Really hard to drill this small of jet sizes.
New predator gen video to help you guys out. Setting valve clearance / lash ua-cam.com/video/F3g7STq5X3M/v-deo.html
Knowledgeable video! I'm at about 250 ft elevation in Bakersfield. My Predator 3500 inverter generator ran great during break in 25hrs. Now it hunts and surges (too lean) I have done all the AF and canister mods. I use sta bil gas additive as well. Maybe too much sta bil additive? NGK plug even.
Why is this thing so temperamental? Almost like a 2 stroke either too rich or too lean... What jet sizes should I order from 6Sigma? I want to get a stock size pilot and stock size main also one size over stock for each. I don't know their numbering scheme and they just tell me to order the sizes I want? Not much help... Please HELP
Likely have a clog if hunting or surging at idle / lean on idle. These things are pig rich at idle normally even at sea-level. There is a hidden idle adjustment screw (google predator 212cc idle adjustment). Carefully take that screw out and parts under it - small plastic low speed jet. Other videos show this for the predator 212cc. I need to cover it soon. Spray out the inside of that area with carb cleaner (berrymans B-12) Be careful not to splash B-12 in your eyes. Vicious stuff. I recommend taking off the carb to do it. While you are at it, take off the bowl, clean out the main jet and blow compressed air through all the passages once gas is drained. Sounds like a lot, but that is like 30 minutes of work tops.
@@MR_Garage OK I'll pull the carb tomorrow. What are the sizes for the stock main and pilot jets? The main is 067 I think but pilot unknown?
So you are saying there is a idle mixture screw on the other side of the carb? I wonder if it adjusts air or fuel mixture? If it's by the throttle plate it's fuel next to choke it's air.
Main jet is a #76. Generators for the most part do not spend their time at idle. Once you get it running properly at idle, then you can see how rich if runs and if it warrants a main jet change.
The mixture screw is not on the other side (wish I could post photos). It faces the oil cover side of the motor. The pilot is rather hidden but accessed from the outside after you remove the idle adjust screw. Wish I could post pictures in the responses. Check other videos under the search I mentioned above.
Only other possibility with this, you overfilled the gas tank at one point (should never be higher than the bottom of the screen) If you filled the charcoal canister with fuel, they run like crap. But the surging you are mentioning... more a sign of a clogged jet or carb. Just takes a small bit of whatever in the gas to make that happen.
@@MR_Garage I see the idle mixture adjust screw. It has been cut off and glued in place. The main is a 065 not 076. I dont know which number to order from 6sigma? Their numbering scheme is completely different?
Is your gen the new model with fuel gauge on top? In another group, we just had confirmation they were still shipping with a #76 jet on the new builds for a main. This would be very NEW news if they are now shipping with a #65 main. Means they are finally correcting jetting, but going a bit lean now, especially for near sea-level. That is a jet I would use more for 3-4K+ feet (if the gen was always at that altitude). If you want a change, I would target a #72 for sea level. Order from sixsigma here. Their website is confusing. www.ebay.com/itm/Predator-212-cc-Honda-Clone-GX160-GX200-GX390-Intake-Carburetor-Carb-Main-Jet/232104529620?hash=item360a820ed4:g:ZlkAAOSwOyJX9X7D
i have been on harbor freight website and dont see the carb gaskets needed to do this job i must be missing them i see some parts but not the ones like this i need to order in case mine gives me trouble.Did you do the oil fill door mod watching to many videos.
Hello, do not need to replace gaskets to do the jet. It is just a o-ring on the bowl which can be re-used. I did a case vent mod, made only a slight difference but still ran very rich jet solved all my issues.
@@MR_Garage so sorry to bother you again thank you for the help do you have an exact part number for both those jets they sent me a link but i need to be sure its for predator series motors
I used this link to buy. Just select the jet size you want from here. www.ebay.com/itm/232104529620
@@MR_Garage very good i just ordered them should be here in 3 days.thank you for your patience i really appreciate your efforts on this thank you
@@MR_Garage just wanted to thank you again so far after my first hour I see no black stuff on my spark arrestor I just shutt it off and I'll do a oil change on it I see metal chips at the end of the magnet dip stick I bought.is it ok if I keep posting here to update others as well I don't make you tube videos so this might help others.so far I have removed my stock .076 jet and went with .072. this is a brand new generator first run. Thx.
Great video, I just got the 3509 and live at 6000’ trying to order a jet kit #68 and can’t find one. Is there a part number or any other info that would help me? Thank. Craig
Hey Craig, Link here (also in the video description) Hope it helps! www.ebay.com/itm/Predator-212-cc-Honda-Clone-GX160-GX200-GX390-Intake-Carburetor-Carb-Main-Jet/232104529620?hash=item360a820ed4%3Ag%3AZlkAAOSwOyJX9X7D&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338741445&customid&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Only seeing .70 and .65 in that range now.
What would you recomend for altitude between 200 to 600?
I would have to ask how it is running now that low - what does the plug look like?
@@MR_Garage I just got it really, it's got about 10 hours on it so far.
I live in glendale az and it runs my toy hauler ac decent but I went to munds Park this week and the cinder pits and it just shuts down it says overload I can only run the lights and things and it shut off like 3 or 4 times before it even ran ok this weekend at munds Park do you recommend that 68 for mine as well?
Munds park is pretty high up at around 6500'. Likely your spark arrestor is clogged and yes, a #72 or #68 will be the ticket for you. Also, sounds like you may have overfilled it with the comment of shutting off 3-4 times before it ran OK. Sometimes that indicates charcoal canister being clogged with fuel. Never fill past the bottom of the screen on the tank inlet.
Where do I get the jets from I couldn't find a 68 or 72 they are different numbers where I have looked?
@@coltenwells9567 www.6sigmajetkit.com/contact-us.html Ask them for a #68 for the predator 3500. They are here in Az.
Where could I order the spark plug that you are recommending?
Colten, I had the SAME PROBLEM, cleaned the spark arrester and problem was immediately solved. I live at 7K’ camp above 10k...
Can the HF 2500 be rejetted?
Almost guaranteed, yes. But I have not done one.
My predator came with a high altitude jet?
What jet #??
Whats a good jet to start with at 6000 ft ?
I would go #68
What about at altitude? Living about 4200 and camping up to 8000. I’ve changed it to a 72 jet, but now surges and struggles run smooth at 4200.
I am at 1200. Runs even better at altitude now. Going to a true 72 at 4200 should be flawless. With the 68, at 7K feet, starting has been so much easier. Are you sure the emulsion tube was put back in properly and is clean? Is idle too low? Can turn it up if needed.
Mr. Garage I’ll double check the e-tube. When eco is off it runs horribly, when on it runs barely ok. Maybe I’ll mess around with the idle screw. What about the pilot jet? Anyone tried changing it, if you can?
I camp at 7000ft to 10800ft altitude in the summer. I bought the high altitude rejet kit from Vpower and it runs great now with no surging and starts quickly. I have also installed the same kit for friends and they have been happy as well.
Great video Mr. Garage. I was sold on buying this generator for over a year and was just waiting for this season and a coupon to buy the 3500. I knew it ran rich from all of the videos I had watched, but your video was the first to show a re-jet which is what I was after. I purchased my predator 3500 a month ago but had been waiting for warmer weather to un-box it. I ordered the #68 from 6sigma off of ebay ~$6 and the NGK iridium plug. I installed both before the initial fire. It started right up, but was slightly surging when under load. I was bummed and tired from work so I just walked away. The next day I took it apart again and put back in the original #72 jet. I had also blew compressed air in all the carb circuits and in the main jet with the jet/emulsion tube removed. When I fired it back up with the #72, it ran perfect - butter smooth, but the exhaust stunk as expected. I briefly considered leaving the #72 jet in, but knew I wouldn't like it. I then put the #68 back in and it has been running perfectly and the exhaust is sooo much better. Now about 2 hours into my break-in period. Thanks for posting this video. BTW i live at ~2800ft elevation.
@@jeremyb4637 Hey Jeremy, Stock should have been a #76. Can you confirm yours had a #72? Curious if they finally made a change. Also, sometimes people do not put the emulsion tube back in properly, I think it can go in upside down.. can' recall for sure. I may be thinking of another motor I recently worked on. It could have been wrong initially or a small piece of whatever got stuck in place until you blew it out.
great video so if I'm in Houston Texas and it's totally flat here more or less sea level what jet do you recommend a 68 or a 70...? Thank you 😊
All depends on how your plug and spark arrestor look after a good run under your normal load.
Yoshi, I'm in Katy and I went with a 72 and I am no longer getting misfires like I used to on the stock 76. It seems to run smoother with ESC off to me. I do not have any other mods on my generator. 70 might be too lean, but you can give it a try.
@@x2100 Where did you purchase the jet. I am in North Louisiana so I think a 72 would be fine.
I just tried to replace the old jet with a new jet kit and I don't know WTF Predator put on the threads of the old jet but I could NOT get that thing to budge. In fact, metal shavings started to come out when I tried to turn the screwdriver to remove the old one. Now tomorrow I'm going to take the generator to a small engine repair shop to see if they can get that old jet out. Would they use threadlocker on a jet from the factory?
Sure you did not get your righty tighty lefty loosey mixed up 😅 never heard of this from others with a predator gen. Sorry man
Mr. Garage I made sure I was going the right direction to loosen it. Unfortunately for me this is pretty much how every project goes for me. I run into some problem/issue.
Sorry man! Sometimes the world wins, sometimes we win
Which iridium spark plug should I get for my predator 3500?
I have the same question
Hey guys, I have the spark plug plus all the other goodies in the video description right here! studio.ua-cam.com/users/videob5VgQ_AKCdY/edit
Can the spark arrest or be removed? No, I do Not.......
It can be for cleaning
How many hours since this mod? Still recommend?
About 30 hours, and yes. Running flawless. Everyone's situation is a bit different. Best to read your plugs and make your jet choices per your altitude and climate.
I want to use my 3500 generator on a mutant vehicle at Burning Man (3900 altitude) but it floods all the time and shuts down and won't restart unless I let it sit for a while, so I end up using my 8000k Predator on vehicle since it doesn't have any issues (except it is so loud) and as I read the comments you talk about overfilling causing flooding but I would think since I am using this in a moving vehicle the gas sloshing around would be the same as overfilling it. Any ideas on what to do in this case? I ordered smaller jet because even at sea level it will die occasionally and be flooded when used on ground. Would propane modification be better for me using it in moving vehicle or can I just bypass the fuel return and use vented cap?
Many talk about deleting the charcoal canister and just venting the fuel lid. Some videos on it, that sounds like it would work for you if in motion while using it.
I read more about propane modification and think this could solve another issue I have at same time. I mount the generator on front rack & use pipe to have exhaust go under vehicle but fumes come back into vehicle since rear is open. With propane it doesn't smell like gas does. I'll do 3 modifications then I have choice of gas or propane - 1 change jet, 2 remove charcoal cartridge, 3 propane mod. (Propane mod $139 on eBay)
@@MR_Garage Can you post the iridium spark plug model number?
@@carbonell2 Yeah, it is in the big video here... ua-cam.com/video/b5VgQ_AKCdY/v-deo.html link to the plug here.... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018JVDRG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0018JVDRG&linkCode=as2&tag=mrgarage-20&linkId=798e7ec8b9a5ffff21fa7ea03fa6d35f
YOU CAN JUST PUT A VENTED OIL DOOR ON IT AND CURE THE PROBLEM. IT ALLOWS IT TO BREATH AND RUN LEANER. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
In my testing early on, a vented door or just taking the door off helps a bit, but also the unit does not draw as much air through the electronics (part of the design). And even with no door, the gen still ran a bit right, especially at higher altitude around 4K+ in which is was nasty rich. The safest bet for this gen is to put it in the proper A/F ratio range under load. No power or capability is lost, it is only a positive change if done right.
@@MR_Garage I live at 7500' and regularly camp at 9000++. What's the best jet to use. Also, I put in a thinner head gasket! So maybe I need to jet for 6000'?
@@carbonell2 I would go for a #68 to start with if you used a thinner head gasket increasing compression? See how it runs and how the plug looks. Can go down from there. Your AF will be corrected but you will definitely be down on power that high up so it may not produce full rated power of 25A. In fact, likely will not as the gas side will not handle the load presented by the inverter.
@@MR_Garage Thank you for the reply. I’m currently at 7500 feet and have the oil fill door off. I put the stock jets back in. And I’m currently running a little over 2500 W, with a hair over 20 A, with my heat gun and ceramic heater. I did do the thinner base gasket to increase compression to try and help with the power at elevation. I just need to figure out any airbox mods I can do and then match it with the appropriate fuel. I bought a set of jets on eBay, but there are new markings on them at all. They also sent a replacement emulsion tube. I haven’t put that in yet.
@@MR_Garage I also dropped sigma a message to see if they can help. Thanks for the referral.
Just bought the 3500. I live in Indiana and pretty sure im at 630ft. What size should I order? 72?
First run it in your area / temperature. Go through break in, then give it some load and check the plug. If you think you are running rich, go to a #72
Mr. Garage thanks for the reply. Appreciate your time
Can you get an adapter to run propane?
Yes, propane conversions kits are available
Nashfuel makes a kit
Very informative video thx. What jet would you recommend I live n Florida but getting ready to start traveling the US . I DO have the predator 3500.
Really depends on the altitude and places you plan to spend the most time. At sea-level, you could be fine as is (check your plug and arrestor to see how they look) or sometimes people have reported best results with a #72 at low altitude.
@@MR_Garage thx for ur quick responses have a good day u and ur family bsafe and stay healthy during this period of the virus
What is a good option for sea level
Stock jet
I purchased the 72 do you think it would help? Which way does the amolsion tube go large side up or down
Interesting that you can run 24 amps on a 20 amp circuit.
Which circuit are you referencing?
@@MR_Garage
The two plugs you had your heat guns in are together, a 20 amp circuit. At least, that’s what I would take from it. Having the breaker any higher than 20 amps would allow either of those outlets to supply more current than safely possible.
So now I’m not sure what the breaker rating is for those 2.
Does the fuel your using contain 10% Ethanol?
Yessir, ethanol free fuel in our area is not available unless we go to a marina or pay $10-15 a gallon for 110 VP.
@@MR_Garage Okay thanks for the reply. Enjoyed the video.
Question - I am moving to Big Bear Lake next weekend (for a few months), and I have a Harbor Freight 3500 Inverter Generator. As I understand, I will need to refit it with a High Altitude kit, and I found one that works with fits all Predator 212cc engines. I am a TOTALLY new with generators, and didn't know where I could find an installation video (though I am looking). This is the part I am going to buy: www.vpowerequipment.com/high-altitude-kit-fits-all-predator-212cc-engines/ I just don't exactly know how to install it - could you point me in a direction? Also, would I keep the old and swap it back in once I'd come back to lower elevation? THANKS!!!!!
Big bear lake is just under 7000 feet. Run a #68 main jet and you will be more than OK.
I’m just running my rv light,tv and ac and the generator hiccups and the tv shuts off . It only happpens when I run ac and tv together . Can anyone help me
Do you have the electric side of the hot water heater on at the same time? What size AC unit?
@@MR_Garage no water heater is off and it’s 18000 btu
Ok, that is a very large AC unit. It would draw on its own around 18-20A. Now add in draw from other items and you are probably pretty close to the full rated output of the gen. The AC unit at startup will draw significantly more power called (inrush). This seems to be well past the generators surge capacity if your TV goes off. About the only thing that will help you in this case is to add a soft start capacitor to the AC unit.
@@MR_Garage oh wow or another generator. Do u have any recommendations for another generator not to crazy expensive
@@MR_Garage actually it’s a 13500btu
This is a great video! But it makes me NOT want to buy one of these generators, which I was on the fence about. Also, many other videos on making cooling holes in the case, etc. It's shocking that you buy a brand new generator off the showroom floor and then have to do these kinds of things to it. I know Honda is apparently overpriced, but you put in oil, gasoline, and pull the cord and you're good for 10 years with regular maintenance and none of this. Plus, you can get parts and service almost everywhere. Go into a Harbor Freight and ask for parts and service and you get dumb looks from the cashier.
You do know that even a honda requires jetting changes depending on altitude as does any small engine. Also, you can order parts for these just as easily online. Coils, carbs, heads, valves... you name it. Easy. Honda makes a great generator but they are FAR from the only game in town anymore. And the exceptionally high price has finally caught up to them as it never needed to be that high in the first place. Luckily, the competition is starting to drive the prices of Honda down which is a win for die hard Honda fans. Best of luck!
I think the keyword is "have to". You don't have to do these things but essentially you are tuning it to your specific situation. I would imagine you could run it stock in most cases and it'll still work fairly well. These are just tweaks in my opinion. Very good info from the author of this video
So I figured I put this here. I bought the jet kit from 6 sigma, it came with a 60 & 68 jets. I opted for the 60 jet here at 6200’ elevation, I typically camp ABOVE 8500’. Well, I started the generator and it purred! Hopefully going camping next weekend, I’ll report back how it does above 9000’ feet.
Update: I ran the generator today at 22.5 amps with the #60 jet, absolutely no surging indicator that it wasn’t getting enough fuel. I’m at 6125’ of elevation...
Made in china. Identical to my NewHolland N3600IG inside. Just blue vs red side covers
Forgot to mention --- I have worked on my Predator 3500 for hours --- and wish they had made it with a simple method to REMOVE that stupid black plastic strap/frame thing right in front of the carburetor! Why didn't they make it with two screws, one at top and one at bottom, to remove it so you could easily work on the carburetor???
I tried and tried to remove that entire side panel (not just the red one) and determined it a major part of the frame or something of the entire generator.
Another thing.... HOLES for more fresh air you drilled.... There is another guy (wish I had the link for you right now that clearly shows that's a BAD idea! ) You have bypassed a lot of air that goes to COOL the electronics! The fresh air comes in at a very bad place at the bottom of the display/working panel (could suck up some dirt) but it FIRST goes to cool the electronics! Then it goes to the main body/chamber of the 'house' to get sucked into the sponge air filter before the choke and carburetor.
IF you want to increase the airflow for both the electronic cooling and the air filter/carb. drill holes in the air filter housing block before the sponge filter (the snap on cover). That is where the restriction is! If you drill holes in the side as you did, that helps the carb air flow, but... now you've reduced the air sucked thru the electronics cooling compartment!
Long ago a member of the predator / powerhorse group ran thermal imaging scans with the side cover mod and without it. Made zero difference despite another guy's claim.
As mentioned, proper jetting is the correct fix.
I removed mine. All it does is provide a place to run the charcoal canister hoses, since I removed that as well, no need for the piece.
ok one has to ask if this problem is so widely known why the hell does't the MFG fix the problem to start with. I should not have to spent 700 dollars and then additional $$ to fix what their engineers screwed up!!!
What it seems you are missing is the fact that most every carbed gas engine has to be jetted properly for their altitude range. The problem here is the gen by default is set for virtually sea level and on the rich at sea level. Now, you have all us using them for camping or other at higher elevations, myself 7K+ feet. There is not a one size fits all setup for this and best to correct and dial in for your altitude. Jets are dirt cheap and luckily this is a generator that runs pretty hard when loaded - so all that is really needed is main jet correction for altitude.
Why not drill small vent holes into the cover to help it breathe better. It's running rich because the demand for it to be quiet requires containment of sound transmission. It's a design sacrifice...quiet = poor air exchange = rich running condition. There is a video on UA-cam (I lost track of it) where the unlatched oil fill/drain access door is shown to be sucked closed when inverter is running. When the inverter was shut off the door literally falls open. The only source for that vacuum condition is from the carbs need to suck in air from within the same sealed-tight, sound proofed outer body. Ideally, the air filter intake path should be made external to the body of the inverter to allow for the correct fuel air mixture to be achieved. You are addressing the issue backwards, imo, and there will be a slight reduction in power as the fuel flow is being restricted to compensate for the restricted air flow. The right fix is to somehow vent the carb intake chamber to the outside of the unit. Make the fix tight around the cover to keep the sound proofing in effect and the proper fuel / air mixture should be restored without making the unit it louder or reducing power...duh!!! Let the damn thing breathe for god sakes.
Hello, If you notice mine is vented on the cover. I ran all sorts of tests including running without the oil access door. They did not properly cure the rich condition. Jetting for your altitude or conditions IS the best solution as with most any small engine.