Your FF LED taillights have 2 circuits and a common ground...3 wires...one circuit is running lights (dim) and the other circuit is a combination of turn signal / brake light (bright)...If you close the brake light switch and switch a turn signal on, one side should be bright constant on and the other should blink bright. If this is happening with the red input wire to the Hopkins disconnected, then it is your turn signal switch that is doing the mixing.
If you feel a relay might be backflowing residual electricity into a circuit (which can happen) then you should try a relay with a built in diode. They add the diode for the express purpose of shutting down the residual energy generated off the electromagnetic coil after it is de-energized.
@@carsarepeopletoo9450 You probably already know this but I’ll say it anyway. There are Type A&B five pin relays. They look identical. When replacing relays make sure the pins on the new relay are numbered EXACTLY the same as the old.
If you're using a factory turn signal switch, you shouldn't need the Hopkins adapter. The mixing of brake light / turn signal circuits is done in the Turn signal switch.
The reason you do need the adapter is that the factory harness uses a separate signal wire for the brake lights, whereas the Factory Five LED lights do not.
2 episode 20's eh? Sounds like fun! I just watched the whole series, thanks for sharing your process! Hopefully I can start my build someday in the not too distant future. Question for ya, how much time do you think you would have saved by buying new parts instead of removing, cleaning, and reusing old parts?
Good catch! I don't know. The difficulty with new parts is that there is always hidden costs and extra time spent researching/shopping to make sure you are buying what will work, and modifying some new parts to make fit. The wiring harness was the most time consuming of used parts, but terminating ends and sorting a new harness can be just as time consuming.
@@carsarepeopletoo9450 makes sense, I hate assuming everything will fit if it's new and from FFR... But that would be nice lol How big is your shop? Thinking of building one sometime and yours seems like a good size for what you do.
coming together nicely.
GREAT as always
Your FF LED taillights have 2 circuits and a common ground...3 wires...one circuit is running lights (dim) and the other circuit is a combination of turn signal / brake light (bright)...If you close the brake light switch and switch a turn signal on, one side should be bright constant on and the other should blink bright. If this is happening with the red input wire to the Hopkins disconnected, then it is your turn signal switch that is doing the mixing.
Also, I forgot that the flasher button is integrated with the signal switch. I did not test that or brakes on with signal flashing. I need to do that.
Did you check the inertial switch?
If you feel a relay might be backflowing residual electricity into a circuit (which can happen) then you should try a relay with a built in diode. They add the diode for the express purpose of shutting down the residual energy generated off the electromagnetic coil after it is de-energized.
So I need to check on that. One test I did not perform was brakes on while signal flashes. 👍👍
@@carsarepeopletoo9450 You probably already know this but I’ll say it anyway. There are Type A&B five pin relays. They look identical. When replacing relays make sure the pins on the new relay are numbered EXACTLY the same as the old.
If you're using a factory turn signal switch, you shouldn't need the Hopkins adapter. The mixing of brake light / turn signal circuits is done in the Turn signal switch.
The reason you do need the adapter is that the factory harness uses a separate signal wire for the brake lights, whereas the Factory Five LED lights do not.
2 episode 20's eh? Sounds like fun! I just watched the whole series, thanks for sharing your process! Hopefully I can start my build someday in the not too distant future.
Question for ya, how much time do you think you would have saved by buying new parts instead of removing, cleaning, and reusing old parts?
Good catch!
I don't know. The difficulty with new parts is that there is always hidden costs and extra time spent researching/shopping to make sure you are buying what will work, and modifying some new parts to make fit. The wiring harness was the most time consuming of used parts, but terminating ends and sorting a new harness can be just as time consuming.
@@carsarepeopletoo9450 makes sense, I hate assuming everything will fit if it's new and from FFR... But that would be nice lol
How big is your shop? Thinking of building one sometime and yours seems like a good size for what you do.
It is 50x80 with a 16' ceiling
@@carsarepeopletoo9450 perfect, that will fit my 5th wheel with room to spare!
Red wire is not for lights it is for sending power to electric brakes on trailer
True, but in this case its for lights.