I think the alarms settings are based on your watts output. Bigger batteries have higher wattage capacity so their voltage doesn't dip so much when you accelerate it hard or try to climb a steep hill. They can handle more watts than a small battery . Basically it's like us trying to lift something too heavy . Everytime you accelerate it demands more watts of power . Your voltage will drop and your current will shoot up in order to maintain the wattage required to accelerate. The bigger the battery the more wattage it can deliver without much voltage drop . Current when it rises can over heat and cause damage. A battery when pushed hard will experience voltage drop and current increase as well as the increase in wattage necessary for the work being put on it . If the battery is too small it can't keep up to the wattage that is being demanded , the voltage drops and the current increases causing overload heating in the wiring and components. You could burn wires etc and cause fire besides overheating the battery and possibly start a fire in it . The alarms and cut outs protect the wheel. They won't protect you if you ignore them or force the motor to overheat .
Thank you for making a video on this!!! You explained it so well. Most UA-camr's that don't even bother to explain the PWM setting and how to adjust it so that you know when you need to be concerned about a cut out. Hopefully the manufacturers of the wheels start integrating this directly into their wheels so that you can set it without having to rely on an app.
You're welcome! Technically, they have! That's what the 3rd level beep is - at least for Begode/Gotway. The 3rd level - 5 beeps/second - sounds like continuous beeping - that's the one that you cannot shut off and it's supposed to come on when you've used 80% motor capacity. Now, that's from my understanding. So...if I set my PWM alarms to 80% - all I'm doing is setting up a redundancy. But - I can see PWM % on my screen and I can play with it - so it's more tangible in my head. With Rossi, though, I don't feel like 80% is enough warning because it went from 80-100% sooo quickly. That's because with the smaller battery, I'm able to overpower the MCM5 so much easier. Especially when I ride my RSHT all the time and then hop onto the MCM5. So in that situation - I would the PWM% alarm more like at 70%. The 3rd level alarm will still come on at 80%. I think everyone should do these tests with their wheels to really get a feel for them and know what to expect and what it means. Each wheel will behave differently. This would be a good way to make sure that all your safety checks are in place and working correctly too.
PWM and speed are NOT reliable alarms for DarknessBot due to the correction needed. With low battery, the wheel will cut before it triggers the speed alarm. PWM can be more accurate but need calibration. If your calibration is off than either you cut off or, the beep goes off to early. The most accurate alarm is the alarm of the wheel itself. The best solution is to only activate the “device alarm (if the firmware allows it)” option on DB, which it does. This way the beep of your wheel itself will go straight to you helmet using DB and you only have to worry about that beep which is by far the most important and reliable.
Face plant! @13:50 😱 Good job illustrating this info.👍 Anytime I'm pushing my wheel I have my hands out and ready as well as being ready to turn my head a to the side In case of cutout .
Thank you! Yeah, he definitely does a violent kick forward and down, at cutout, before he settles back down. Like he's really going make sure you smash down face first. 😆
Good to know. I hard set my speed on my master to 48mph with alarms at 40 , 43 , and 45 to keep me from cutting out and no other alarms. Now that I know what PWM is Ill be setting that up as well. Thanks for the info.
Very good info! I’ve never played much with PWM. I usually just go by “feel” because that is what I’m used to on onewheel. But the consequences are much greater if I guess wrong while going 50! Thanks Dawn!
I don’t understand and I’m trying to figure out - how the power used to spin a wheel in the free air compares to the much more power needed to carry a person on level ground, much less up a hill. I did see it cut out in your demonstration so that’s even more interesting. You could very well be leaving quite a bit of reserve on the table as they say
@@DawnSChampion Or some of them should just give you EUC's to test (and keep) for FREE . No need to go anywhere, except around your hood. After all, you're the woman with ALOT of common sense.
@@DawnSChampion you’re too far 😅. Sucks that not much people ride EU out here at Boston, compare to Cali. Neither no group ride, if so it’ll be like once a year.
This is why we got this undispensable security we call a "dynamic tilt back", exept for begode who dont care and let users creating custom firmware to do it...
Fantastic presentation! As you said, there are so many variables in play. Maybe in the not to distant future, there will be an AI driven app that sends vital safety info to your earbuds that gives you confidence while riding in any conditions thru the full range of battery % of 100 down to near depletion. Of course flip flop no safety gear riding crazies need not apply:-)
I'm looking into getting a helmet Bluetooth Speaker thing. I think there's a way for the beeps to be sent to my phone and then to my helmet. Then I will for sure not miss the beeps. The beeps should be the only thing I need. The gain from 80-100% is absolutely not worth the risk. So simply backing off when I hear the first beeps should be good. Of course, there are situations where it just cuts out, without any beeps. But we do what we can!
@@DawnSChampion I think WrongWay Adam would love to see what you have done testing wise with your stand. Especially considering his most recent UA-cam post about his Veteran Sherman cutout.
@@manfrombkk - Awww, thank you! I'm really flattered. But he's a total pro and he knows all this and way more. He's testing new wheels and pushing limits so others can learn from him. I have nothing of value to an expert like him! ☺️☺️
@@DawnSChampion I think it’s that DIY test stand you have. I’ve never seen anything like that coming from an EUC rider. Perhaps a build video on that rig. But you might want to attach your tether to it in case the wheel (God Forbid) gets away from you while doing those dyno tests
I love you dawn.
The names you give your wheels is 2 cute
I think the alarms settings are based on your watts output.
Bigger batteries have higher wattage capacity so their voltage doesn't dip so much when you accelerate it hard or try to climb a steep hill. They can handle more watts than a small battery .
Basically it's like us trying to lift something too heavy .
Everytime you accelerate it demands more watts of power .
Your voltage will drop and your current will shoot up in order to maintain the wattage required to accelerate.
The bigger the battery the more wattage it can deliver without much voltage drop .
Current when it rises can over heat and cause damage.
A battery when pushed hard will experience voltage drop and current increase as well as the increase in wattage necessary for the work being put on it . If the battery is too small it can't keep up to the wattage that is being demanded , the voltage drops and the current increases causing overload heating in the wiring and components.
You could burn wires etc and cause fire besides overheating the battery and possibly start a fire in it .
The alarms and cut outs protect the wheel.
They won't protect you if you ignore them or force the motor to overheat .
Thank you for making a video on this!!! You explained it so well. Most UA-camr's that don't even bother to explain the PWM setting and how to adjust it so that you know when you need to be concerned about a cut out. Hopefully the manufacturers of the wheels start integrating this directly into their wheels so that you can set it without having to rely on an app.
You're welcome! Technically, they have! That's what the 3rd level beep is - at least for Begode/Gotway. The 3rd level - 5 beeps/second - sounds like continuous beeping - that's the one that you cannot shut off and it's supposed to come on when you've used 80% motor capacity. Now, that's from my understanding. So...if I set my PWM alarms to 80% - all I'm doing is setting up a redundancy. But - I can see PWM % on my screen and I can play with it - so it's more tangible in my head. With Rossi, though, I don't feel like 80% is enough warning because it went from 80-100% sooo quickly. That's because with the smaller battery, I'm able to overpower the MCM5 so much easier. Especially when I ride my RSHT all the time and then hop onto the MCM5. So in that situation - I would the PWM% alarm more like at 70%. The 3rd level alarm will still come on at 80%. I think everyone should do these tests with their wheels to really get a feel for them and know what to expect and what it means. Each wheel will behave differently. This would be a good way to make sure that all your safety checks are in place and working correctly too.
Whenever there’s a newbie getting into EUCs I send them this video. Very informative! Thank you for putting this together.
You’re welcome!! ❤️
PWM and speed are NOT reliable alarms for DarknessBot due to the correction needed. With low battery, the wheel will cut before it triggers the speed alarm. PWM can be more accurate but need calibration. If your calibration is off than either you cut off or, the beep goes off to early. The most accurate alarm is the alarm of the wheel itself. The best solution is to only activate the “device alarm (if the firmware allows it)” option on DB, which it does. This way the beep of your wheel itself will go straight to you helmet using DB and you only have to worry about that beep which is by far the most important and reliable.
Face plant! @13:50 😱
Good job illustrating this info.👍
Anytime I'm pushing my wheel I have my hands out and ready as well as being ready to turn my head a to the side In case of cutout .
Thank you! Yeah, he definitely does a violent kick forward and down, at cutout, before he settles back down. Like he's really going make sure you smash down face first. 😆
I find Your voice soothing, you could do a relaxing ASMR.
Thank you!!
I found this very educational, this is what I like about your videos! You are very methodical.
Thank you!! ❤️
I liked and subscribed 🤟🏽 I learned so much!
Good to know. I hard set my speed on my master to 48mph with alarms at 40 , 43 , and 45 to keep me from cutting out and no other alarms. Now that I know what PWM is Ill be setting that up as well. Thanks for the info.
Very good info! I’ve never played much with PWM. I usually just go by “feel” because that is what I’m used to on onewheel. But the consequences are much greater if I guess wrong while going 50! Thanks Dawn!
You're welcome!!
I don’t understand and I’m trying to figure out - how the power used to spin a wheel in the free air compares to the much more power needed to carry a person on level ground, much less up a hill. I did see it cut out in your demonstration so that’s even more interesting.
You could very well be leaving quite a bit of reserve on the table as they say
PWM is a percentage. So it's going to work despite load and battery differences
Very clear. Thanks
Awesome 😎 thanks Dawn!!🙏
You're welcome!
Nice!
More good information!! I feel like you could work for Gotway or Veteran Sherman, InMotion or Kingsong
Thank you!! I would love to...but I don't want to move to China! LOL
@@DawnSChampion Or some of them should just give you EUC's to test (and keep) for FREE . No need to go anywhere, except around your hood. After all, you're the woman with ALOT of common sense.
@@manfrombkk - that would be cool! 😆😆
@@DawnSChampion 🤔😁
Gt. video Dawn 👍 Curious to know if you have "Smart Alarms" set, in addition to PWM? or does PWM negate the need for "Smart Alarms"? 🤔
I'm not sure what you mean by Smart Alarms, but I have alarms set to 80,85, and 90% PWM. That's all I seem to need
Let’s ride together
Sure, let's do it!
@@DawnSChampion I’m from the northern east. You?
@@wipeout5006 - southern California
@@DawnSChampion you’re too far 😅. Sucks that not much people ride EU out here at Boston, compare to Cali. Neither no group ride, if so it’ll be like once a year.
What is the story with the roll cadge you have on this wheel? Is it diy or some kind of kit?
It’s diy. Here is my video on it. ua-cam.com/video/WCMczvxIwRM/v-deo.htmlsi=YKuTH8gKC5lG80Qs
This is why we got this undispensable security we call a "dynamic tilt back", exept for begode who dont care and let users creating custom firmware to do it...
thank you!
You're welcome! Thank you!!
Fantastic presentation! As you said, there are so many variables in play. Maybe in the not to distant future, there will be an AI driven app that sends vital safety info to your earbuds that gives you confidence while riding in any conditions thru the full range of battery % of 100 down to near depletion. Of course flip flop no safety gear riding crazies need not apply:-)
I'm looking into getting a helmet Bluetooth Speaker thing. I think there's a way for the beeps to be sent to my phone and then to my helmet. Then I will for sure not miss the beeps. The beeps should be the only thing I need. The gain from 80-100% is absolutely not worth the risk. So simply backing off when I hear the first beeps should be good. Of course, there are situations where it just cuts out, without any beeps. But we do what we can!
@@DawnSChampion I think WrongWay Adam would love to see what you have done testing wise with your stand. Especially considering his most recent UA-cam post about his Veteran Sherman cutout.
@@manfrombkk - Awww, thank you! I'm really flattered. But he's a total pro and he knows all this and way more. He's testing new wheels and pushing limits so others can learn from him. I have nothing of value to an expert like him! ☺️☺️
@@DawnSChampion I think it’s that DIY test stand you have. I’ve never seen anything like that coming from an EUC rider. Perhaps a build video on that rig. But you might want to attach your tether to it in case the wheel (God Forbid) gets away from you while doing those dyno tests