Geiger Counter (BR-6) - Battery/Charging UPGRADE - Full Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Was going to say this is just a quick video... but nope, my classic rambling style upgrading this cheap Geiger counter (BR-6). Originally, this thing has terrible charging capabilities basically "cooking" the Ni-MH batteries. Why not just upgrade this to use a common Lithium cell? That's what this video is all about...
Geiger counter is BR-6: ebay.us/tVIEUy
Charger Board: www.amazon.com...
MCP1702 regulator I used: www.digikey.co...
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/ kdarrah
Twitter: / kdcircuits
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Interesting project! Thanks for breaking down the features of the board and explaining what you were doing. Learned a lot. Thanks for sharing!
Btw you reminded me how I found your channel. When I was in my Analog Electronics class in college we had a project where we had to select an analog kit to reverse engineer, explain and make a better version of. I decided I wanted something fun and useful (i had to buy the kit anyway). I was deciding between a nixie tube kit or a Geiger counter. I ended up going with the geiger counter mostly out of cost. Ether way when doing my research and just looking up content I found your video on the DIY Geiger counter (i love youtube). Really helped out and gave me lots of confidence when doing my own project. Ended up with and a great version of a Geiger counter that I put in a pip-boy!
Thanks for all the content and for sharing your knowledge with us! Now i want to set up that Geiger counter as a desk item too!
wow thanks!!!
I have a variant of the BR-9 and it seems like it actually is build for 1 LiIon. Haven't tested and tried all aspects but voltage sure hints at it. May work with NiMH bot not ideal. Oh well. Just take out a cell if powering for long period of with with USB. Or even just put in a schottky diode - no recharge at all. I actually like using regular AA. Just chuck in a freshly charged set of NiMH or grab some of the shelf if in a hurry. Even a set of AA 1.5v lithium which don't leak and lasts for decades on shelf - perfect for an emergency bag.
Cool project! I did a similar thing with a cheap-o oscilloscope, but just fed it the 3.7 volts and hoped for the best, with no analysis of where they went. It didn't catch fire and still works :)
is not exactly an project, it's a research for save mony and use of device.
Thanks for this tutorial. I have the model with the white enclosure, which I believe is the B revision with an updated PCB. It does not backfeed to the battery compartment. Also there's a spot on the board near the USB jack with a missing IC... Maybe they were planning on making a rechargeable version of this, similar to your mod.
I would fit a switch on the battery positive lead and put it on the site of the unit so you could turn off the batteries when they are charged and you want to power off the USB supply.
Thanks for the detailed commentary. This is a great tutorial video to follow me. I just got this model and would like to try an upgrade.
I hope I have a lithium-ion battery of the right size at hand. .. Lol ;)
Always enjoying your videos. Thanks !
Nice solution Kevin!
Thanks for the video, and maybe it aims to more advanced people, but next time I wish you would say a word about not connecting ground, only 5 volt. I guess there is some common ground thing but the thought process of deciding that would be great to hear. Keep up the great work!
ah yea, good point - I did ohm the board out and my common ground is through that JST connector into the board. Same ground as USB ground
@@Kevindarrah Are there any issues maintaining the common ground with the usb input since the ground is the one being switched by the TP4046 board?
in any case 2 units of LM317T/D can get very perfect solution for all game. first is current charger,second - is converter 3,8 to 3 volts. 750 Ohms & 1 kOhms, 4 capacitors & 2,5 Ohm for resistor for current limit 0,5 A.
Nice work
Hello Kevin! i try to see this movie few times, RESPECT FOR AN GREAT JOB! but i really don't see the reason fo remove AMS1117 3,3V regulator. why not to cut 2 lines from input and output of AMS1117? there you are disconnect & continue to use of internal voltage stabilizer. GND pin on pcb, also good cooling for AMS1117 by footprint. now trace input voltage wire to R6 or (+) of USB, other wire from Vin of AMS1117 to output of external charger circuit - TP4056. Out of AMS1117 to PLUS of battery connector. case of few additional capacitors close to regulator is very simple too. case of few additional capacitors close to regulator is very simple too. or may be you have other sudjestions?
Cool project! Now mod it with an ESP of your choice and include the measurements in your home automation system… ;)
oh I know how cool would that be!
I've just ordered one of these.. Is that a uart port just above the USB? I really want to log the data in home assistant, my first thought was to count the ticks like my old counter that died but if that's uart..
Hi Kevin, can you have the unit on and charge at the same time? Is the charger board able to terminate its charge if it has a load on it?
Geiger counters from International Medcom and SE international have always been expensive given they are specialized non typical consumer products. Given the rather simple electronics and the cost of tubes if they were mass produced they'd probably be under $50 instead of $500 - $800. This one has what appeaars the China version of the SBM-20 Geiger-Muller tube. Thanks to China manufacturing basic ones can now be bought for affordable prices. I have a SOEKS and and Radalert 50 but I would like to get the new SE Ranger with the large sensative flat 7317 pancake tube that detects a ß y x for but $650 is a bit pricey for a home hobbyist.
You should try and find where on the chip that switches the millisievert alarm setting, the default is 0.5. That would be a cool mod... I'm sure it's the same chip as on the other BR6 versions, just a slightly different circuit board.
Yes, i Need that!
Do Geiger counters produce more electricity than is put in? If they do would that not mean it is creating energy?
I was thinking if it is creating energy from reading how much radiation is in the air wouldn’t you be able to create unlimited energy?
I was thinking if it is creating energy from reading how much radiation is in the air wouldn’t you be able to create unlimited energy?
It was charging the NiMH at 370mA ? There's is your problem!
If it was a trickle charger, it would be charging at 20-30mA. Probably uses one resistor to limit the current from the +5V to the battery.
NiMH can deal with a constant low current (20~30mA) when full. All the hydrogen generated during charging, is converted back to water inside the cell.
If the charging current is too high, it will heat up after being fully charged, and you say bye bye to those cells after a few cycles.
pretty crazy! and I bet a lot of people use 1.5V alkalines... wonder how those batteries enjoy that beating
@@Kevindarrah I can tell you from dumb experiments/experience, that alkaline at those currents, will blow up like a pressure cooker! Even at 25mA charge current! The little vent holes can't handle that much hydrogen buildup, and make a loud popping sound as the seal blows.
Good on you using an @EEVblog multimeter..
yea, new purchase : )