BIGGEST DIY Mistakes Adding a New Socket
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- Common mistakes when adding a new socket to an existing circuit.
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Wow... fantastic explanation. I have a PhD in electrical engineering, and this guy just hit you all with a hotdog in the bum!!!!
Very kind! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for demystifying the issue of adding sockets. Your explanation was very clear and once again a very beneficial few minutes that sees me a little more knowledgeable and less likely to put me and others in danger!
Thanks for watching!
Maybe you should employ an electrician?!
If you're not an electrician and are planning to add any socket, or light switch. Listen to this firstly!!!! It will give you the confidence to add the electrical circuit and be certain you're doing it correctly. The advice he gives is absolutely correctly pitched AND ■(surprisingly)■ is even backed up with mathematical proof. Well done video poster!!!
Very kind of you to say, thank you!
I would have almost no confidence in my ability to identify the paths of ring circuits in my home. It was built in 1976, and rewired by a gobshite, at least partially, at some point in the early 2000's. I'm fairly certain I've extended the end of a radial to two double sockets in the living room, it's just for lamp lighting and phone chargers.
I would have almost no confidence in my ability to identify the paths of ring circuits in my home. It was built in 1976, and rewired by a gobshite, at least partially, at some point in the early 2000's. I'm fairly certain I've extended the end of a radial to two double sockets in the living room, it's just for lamp lighting and phone chargers.
Most gadgets now low consumption so to reach 20amps is hard plus u ad one socket not 3 or 5 😅😮 on the ring. But i agree very good explaniation i learned a lot. But if u have a litle brain u know kinda what hes saying
No, if you're not a spark and you're in doubt, call a fkin spark😂
A light switch and a socket are two completely different kettles of fish when it comes to DIYers. Normally you lot just whack the blue in the neutral bar because you don't understand switching lines and then booby trap your own switches.
Very effective and clear explanation here. Genuine depth of knowledge illustrated by ability to provide analytical and critical commentary on regs…Is what I’d say if this was a university assessment submission! 😅 But seriously, it’s this level of understanding our subjects, to which we should all aspire. Kudus!
Thank you, I’m no expert, just an over enthusiastic diyer
Even for a civilian like me I was able to follow it.
Kudos
As an electrician of 44 years and approved NICEIC contractor, you are pretty spot on with this video, but would remind anyone watching that the provision of a new circuit from CCU would require to be Part P notified and an installation certificate issued. But still one of the more accurate diy videos I’ve seen. 👍
Thanks for watching!
I knew most of that, but I've never come across safe-plates before. Such a simple idea.
Thanks for watching! Safe plates are great for plumbing too
Great video, my favourite expression when I don't understand something is 'explain it to me like I'm a 2 year old'. You achieved that in spades, thanks.
Thank you haha!
Absolutely the best video / explanation covering virtually every aspect - brilliant learning tool, exactly what I needed, in easy to understand DIY language. Thank you so much.
He is a genius and just hit you right in the bum with a hotdog!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great explanation, I will watch this film a few time to make sure I understand the content.
Much appreciated, thank you, regards, Chris.
Awesome, thank you!
His voice keeps rising like he’s asking a question all the time. Very irritating.
It’s only 3 mins in and his rising intonation is too much. I can’t listen to any more.
Brilliant well informed information for diy folks. Thanks very much for this. :)
Glad it was helpful!
Great video - really clear, well illustrated and not overly wordy. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Great information and reassuring, always thinking of myself as a competent DIYer I'm pleased to find my existing understandings fit with your professional explanation.
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video.
I’ve been in the construction industry for over 50 years and this is the clearest explanation of domestic circuitry that I have ever heard, thank you.
Very kind of you to say so, thanks for watching!
Great advice and well presented. If in doubt about a ring main then replace MCB with 20A which is a good precaution in any event as high power is not usual except for kitchens with many appliances in addition to oven and hobs ( separate 6mm T&E ).
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks. I liked the tip of inserting a fused switch into a lengthy radial circuit to cap the overall current.
Thanks for watching!!
Here in Malta we used to use ring cables and i always wondered how exactly they save less cable. Really informative thank you
Interesting, thanks for watching!
Excellent video young man. Clear and concise. Also made me feel good about all the electrical extensions and other work I did in my 70's house back in the 80's (they really didn't cater for a future power hungry world). It would appear I did it all correctly. House is still here along with me!!
Thank you, very appreciated! Glad you enjoyed it
@@democracyforall
What are you on about?
Very useful and well explained, thanks!
Thank you for watching!!
Working on some electrics now and this has helped, nice clear video! thank you!
Glad it helped!
Clear and concise , just in a 100yr old house, great heads up on potential problems, a little knowledge when discussing with electrician really helpful with my understanding
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great video, keep them coming
Thanks Andy!
Interesting, here in Hungary we usually use 1.5 for general sockets (phones chargers, hoover etc) with a 13A mcb, and about 5-10sockets per radial circuits/ 2.5 in kitchens mostly 16A mcb, radial/ hob, washing machine, water heater, towel dryer, oven, all separate circuits. Never seen a ring circuit being used over here
Thanks for sharing!
Because you do not have the fuse in plug.
Just what I was looking for, I tend to investigate before I add an addition socket, in my garage Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info, especially the safe plates which I have never seen before. I know there are none of these anywhere in my house, at the moment!
Thanks for watching!
A very concise & informative video 👍
Glad you think so!
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thank you for watching!!
You have a great talent for this. Perfect explanation. Thank you.
You're very welcome! Thank you
This was very informative, i have learned a few things i didn't give a thought about before thanks.
Thank you for watching! Really appreciated!
The explanation for the ring main system given to me many years ago was that it was used in warships for additional resilience, and then adopted after a methodical review of the wiring for homes. Before that, the radial system was used, with 3 sizes of plug and socket for different ratings.
He was a physicist who had served in the navy during the war.
That’s very interesting, and sounds plausible, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 My curiosity was aroused, so I've just read about the introduction of BS 1363 in 1947. A number of benefits were foreseen, including economy of materials and labour. An expected 30% saving in wiring of ring over radial was indeed one of the reasons, and this was reaffirmed in 1994, despite the enormous changes.
Admiral John radial and mr Gary Ring
@@colinelliott5629 What everybody seems to miss about that, though, is that when they were doing those analyses they were not looking at the type of radial circuits we use nowadays. They were actually comparing _shared_ ring circuits to _dedicated_ radial circuits. An awful lot of pre-war electrical wiring had a _single radial running from the box to each appliance._ One circuit had one outlet, and that's it. So if you wanted to wire up five outlets, you were actually running _five radials_ to do it. It was really horribly wasteful.
So _of course_ ring circuits would save copper over that way of doing things, because _just about anything_ would save copper over that way of doing things. Exactly the same savings could be claimed for _shared radial circuits_ like we all actually use nowadays, if they'd even bothered to consider them at the time.
In fact, shared radial circuits _make better use of copper_ than ring circuits do. As was explained in the video, if you just break a ring into two radials, each with its own breaker, you could actually handle up to 40 amps instead of the 32 amps allowed for a ring (and do it more safely), so the ring configuration is actually _wasting 8 amps of current-carrying capacity_ in the wires, for no real benefit.
(I can certainly buy the idea of doing this sort of thing on warships for redundancy, but for buildings it just makes no sense, and never really did.)
Yes, they came from ships for resilience. They were introduced in the UK in late 1950s when they saw the fuse in the plug enabled rings to be fitted. My mothers house was built in 1954 with the 13A G Type sockets/plugs but with radials. Final rings were not a way to save copper after WW2, although it did help of course. Ring are ingenuous in their simplicity.
Sparky here .. strangely a lot of homes here (Ipswich Suffolk) built 1945-1952 ish have 4mm radials for they're sockets .. I've always thought this strange for the 'after the war period'... you'd think that'd be smack in the saving metal period.... Anyway It's nightmare if you try to fit anything other than MK sockets as a lot of cheap sockets have small cable clamps that just won't take 2 4mm conductors...as for the safe zones .. kitchen fitters I'm looking at you ...the amount of diagonal cables ..or times I find sockets/ cooker switches in the combustion zone is uncountable.....nice video for the homeowners dude ..keep it up.
Thanks for watching! Compliments from a professional always appreciated! Were the homes you mentioned wired with aluminium cables?
Yes as a electrician I completely agree about kitchen fitters, in my experience I have spent hours correcting their wiring. And yes I understand about 4mm cables and MK sockets. In response to Dill-Diyer next question below. during my apprenticeship in the 60s there was a copper shortage and we substituted ring circuit cable with aluminium cable . (plumbers had to use stainless steel pipe). The shortage did not last long though.
Excellent informative clip. Clear and to the point! I'm now a follower! 👏✅
Welcome aboard! Thank you!
good info, also its always worth adding up the current that devices use and plug things in sensibly, on the plus side most things use alot less current these days.
Yes absolutely! Thanks for watching!
Two 13A appliances into a double socket is a bad idea - most are only tested at 20A across both. Washing machines & tumble dryers are a favourite for cooked double sockets.
Yep absolutely agree, washing machine and tumble driers need singles. Thanks for watching!
Unless actually take note on the appliance. Meile washer 2200 watt, Grundig dryer ( heat pump) 900 watt . 13 amps both ? Safe or not ?
@@craigs6892 That's 13.5A combined, so well under the 20A probable rating of a double socket, therefore safe.
@@gman7692 thanks, I'll leave mine plugged in then. Ain't messing with sockets as cant be arsed attempting, I know not permitting anyway ( dont like changing a car battery never mind with 240v stuff ) . House safe but one day get a rewire done .
IMO there is an often overlooked part in the regulations which states that, when designing circuits any known load (so washing machine,tumble dryer, dishwasher, panel heater, water heater etc) should be on its own circuit. Whilst this inevitably increases the size of the consumer unit it removes the need for all socket outlet circuits to be designed for 32A. A 16 or 20A radial socket circuit per floor in an average house with a 32A radial socket circuit for the kitchen and each fixed appliance on its own circuit is the way to go. Rings are an anachronism.
Great topic. I’m an electrician myself. I agree ring circuits are no longer needed. Most equipment in homes nowadays would happily run on 2.5 radial circuits. 60 years ago 2.5 radial circuits might not have been the perfect solution with alot more resistive loads drawing more current but nowadays everything is much more efficient.
Thanks for watching! Absolutely agreed, outside of anything that has a heating element, most appliances draw little current these days
They were never needed or used elsewhere, I didnt even know they existed until I started watching UK electricians videos.
I can see the point in WW2 era britain but if you saving copper wouldnt you also save power? I can understand it in an industrial setting powering multiple machines but a 1940's home? People didn't even have refrigerators let alone washing machines and electric heaters.
What's the difference in a spur off of a socket versus a radial circuit though, surely the same principal? And you're saying radial is fine, so why is only 1 socket allowed off a spur?
@@craigbeesley9601 I think you mean what's the difference between spurring off a ring circuit and spurring of a radial circuit ? is that your question
@Baggiolyful no. A radial is just single wire not looped, to 4 or 5 sockets.
A spur is just single wire to another socket, what difference is there in then carrying that on and making effectively another radial?
Thanks buddy . I'm a new learner loved the video. I didn't know about the safety plates. Cool
Glad to help!
One of the best explanations I’ve seen👍 surely plugging a 4 gang plug extension on a double spur has a risk of overload also?
Thank you! A 4 gang extension lead will have a 13A fuse in, so won’t cause you any problems
I found that very interesting but one thought on safety plates, as most builders and some do it yourself people are now using cordless impact drill drivers you can easily drive a screw through those plates without knowing. cheers Les
Thanks for watching! I’ve hit one going through plasterboard with a plasterboard screw, with no issues. But i don’t know how it would cope with a big wood screw going through floorboards first then into a joist. Maybe I’ll do a video on them at some point and test it!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Hi there is a video out there showing a cut away section of a joist, safeplate and a floorboard and a impact driver makes light work of the safeplate going straight through it like it's not even there!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 ua-cam.com/users/shortszGqfrbmRGKA?feature=share
People are going to suppose I have some sort of fetish or franchise selling *metal detectors* ... BUT ...........
You're right, unless you set an impact driver to the lowest torque (maybe to avoid crushing plasterboard or whatever) yeah, there's every chance it would be through before it registered in your mind you'd hit metal.
@@Farweasel I wouldnt rely on metal detectors. They dont always seem to pick up
Worth mentioning that most people think a twin socket outlet is made to work with 2x appliances both running at 13amps. The BS that they are made too only requires the socket to be capable of carrying 13amps in total & if you look on the back you will see they are marked as 13amp & not 2x 13amp or 26amp. MK Electric tell me their twin socket outlets have been independently tested & will run at 19amps for a short period without any damage to the socket but if you go any higher thermal damage will start to occur quite rapidly
Yes true, often seen when people have tumble dryers and washing machines in the same socket
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 The secret is continuously rated. The BS standard specifies that it must be possible to draw 20A from a double socket for (I seem to remember) 30 minutes without excessive increase in heating. In practice, it's pretty well indefinite. A washing machine and a tumble drier are not going to each draw 3 kW for extended periods. It's only when the heaters are operating, and both will be thermostatically controlled.
Just about the only time 6 kW will be drawn from a double socket is by plugging in a couple of 3kW space heaters into large, cold room.
It is very common for circuits to be run overloaded for a period. Often a cooker will, in theory, be able to draw far more power than the nominal rating of the circuit. However, MCBs are deliberately rated on a time curve (normally class B in domestic properties) and they allow for the possibility that a particular combination of grill, hobs and oven(s) might be turned on at the same time and exceed the sustained capacity of the circuit for relatively short periods.
As an example, the BELLING Farmhouse 110E Electric Ceramic Range Cooker has an electrical rating of 14.5 kW. That's 63 amperes at 230V yet the manufacturer's instructions are that it can be connected to a 32A circuit. If it just happens that a particular combination means that it draws, say, 45A for 30 seconds before thermostats and so on kick in, then the MCB/RCBO won't trip due to the thermal delay (and fuses act that way naturally).
It's just the same with a double socket with a couple of high powered devices. In practice, they aren't likely to be both pulling full load for a very long sustained period.
Not that anybody tells the public about this.
Excellent video. Thank you so much for being clear and concise. No faffing about.
Thank you, very appreciated!
You may have answered a number of issues I have with a number of sockets not working as well, when charging drill battery doesn't charge on some sockets, noticed Fuse Spur, now I understand what this box is WOW
Thanks for watching!
It's worth noting that a 32A breaker, for example, doesn't just trip at 32 amps. They have very well defined over-current to time characteristics. This means that the breaker will not trigger until 10 seconds at three times the rated current. Even at double the rated current the breaker could take 100 seconds to hit its thermal trigger.
Thanks for the info!
There are still electromagnetic breakers? they trip within like 100ms
@@sylvester4207 Breakers contain both magnetic and thermal trips.
@@sylvester4207 also the magnetic trip component is for short circuit current, which needs to be able to trip high current as quickly as possible. Whereas thermal trip is to protect against overload and can take time depending on the type of breaker
this entire section is why people shouldn't do 'electrics.....
I am an electrician and I can prove that ring mains should be banned. If one is supposed to test without dismantling a circuit how can one test a ring main. On the standard test one has to reassemble the circuit once the test is complete which means the test one has just done is null and void because there is no proof that one assembled the tested circuit correctly.
Great point!! Thanks for watching
Where I stay, plug circuit is now only 20A. Ring mains are discouraged for the exact reason you mentioned. I hate them. In HV networks, they are common, but very well protected. Any break is picked up. LV, a no go now.
I have a friend who lives in Belgium but his street gets 3 phase to each house and I am sure he said they had to have radial not ring but IIRC they were cabled in 4mm
I've never heard an explanation for ring circuits before! The war makes perfect sense. Thank you! Never legal in the US. Ring configurations were used in some communications systems, though, and with the same issue. Without a failure detect mechanism, you wouldn't know you lost your redundancy.
Thanks for watching!
I'm a canadian and I just find this very interesting. Definitely prefer our code to yours :) Good video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!!
I am an electrician and your explanation is brilliant. The only thing I would add is that you are allowed to have up to 3 circuit per MCB and that mean you can keep broken ring without adding new MCB as long as you downgrade it to let's say 16 amp. But this shenanigans should be checked by electrician as no dyiers know how to check for Ze and Zs which are crucial for safety in electrical installation.
Thanks for the info, and thanks for watching, very appreciated!
CHECK for Ze & Zs
My good man - I'm not entirely sure what Ze & Zs *are* 🙄
Ze Zs R1R2 RCD trip times, Insulation resistance testing. All should be done when altering existing circuits as the Minor Works Certificate asks for these details, this is non notifiable works.
@@gctelectrical5555 I still have my 1000V hand powered Insulation resistance testing mega meter - a bit of history.
If space is an issue in the consumer unit, then perhaps this would be a compromise - However Regulation 314.4 (BS7671) comes into play - each final circuit SHALL be connected to a separate way in a distribution board.
Great video.
Got a theoretical question however with regards to unfused spurs off a ring main.
If using 4mm which has a rating of 37A clipped direct, from the ring main via a socket or terminal block, why can’t you spur more than one?
Using a FCU of 13A protects the 2.5mm you would typically use, but the 32A MCB of the ring main would protect the 4mm spurs of multiple sockets no?
Curious to others thoughts really…
Regulation 433.1.204 - BS7671 shows the permitted options for a ring circuit. Your theory is right with 4.0mm it would be able to cope with the load. However, potentially if your connection is at a 1/4 point on the ring circuit then four heaters are plugged into multiple sockets on your 4.0mm spur you could introduce a large load on the 1st leg which leads to an unbalanced load. This will mean potentially 32A is being drawn on the 1st leg (electricity is lazy, it will use the shortest path). By only having one spur to one socket or FCU limits the load to 26A. Same applies to an FCU serving multiple sockets the load is limited to 13A. Balancing a ring circuit should be carried out in say a Kitchen where potential heavy loads are . Although ring circuits are dying a death as are split load consumer units. The preference is going to radial circuits due to the potential faults with rings.
Thanks.
Yes, but in theory could I not have 4 heaters plugged into the first double socket and double socket spur off the ring in the house, the ring then continuing on for another 14 sockets day?
Therefore it will introduce the same conditions as above?
Hope this makes sense. Fully agree with your comments too, radial is the way forward especially with high integrity earthing.
@@adam6759 @Adam your right you could do that- all the load could be at one end of the ring circuit.
433.1.204 is just a way to reduce the chance a big load as you mentioned+ adding to that section with the 4.0mm radial which would add even more.
Which is why the 4.0mm is not permitted.
Here is a puzzler - you can't install a radial circuit with 2.5mm from a 32a 60898 to serve one double socket. Max load would be 26A. But you can spur off a 60898 32A to a double socket if it's added to a ring circuit.
Questions to the IET
Thanks for watching!
@@IW-tb8wr is there a max distance or sqm for spurring off a ring with a 2.5mm?
Great explanation and diagrams. Thank you!
Thank you, really appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
You just prevented me from making a potentially dangerous mistake in my loft. Thank you!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Good basic explanation of domestic wiring. Newer houses tend to have enough sockets now, so far less likely that you would need to add more or interfere with what has been installed. However, older homes, particularly 50’s/‘60’s/70’s were barely provided for in today’s energy thirsty world. So that’s where the risks start when DIYers get involved. Many are fairly competent to add small modifications, but from my experience non-competent ones are the real risk. Sockets changed with new “USB” integral chargers is the latest risk, because those who don’t really have the necessary knowledge or good working practice can leave the terminals loose or incorrectly wired. My current home had a nightmare of half finished, wrongly completed wiring work, some of it live to the touch if you put your fingers in the wrong place. As they used to say “a little knowledge is a very dangerous thing”…
Thanks for watching!
Those new sockets with integral USB chargers are a risk in their own right, never mind the installation.
The worst electrical work I have seen has been done by people charging for it - general handymen, general builders, etc. I have seen some excellent DIY work for sure. Some do their research well.
@@crcomments8509 How so? As I understand it, they're effectively triple sockets (or socket-count+!) with the additional socket driving the AC-2-DC converter. I'd see them as more threatening to the USB device (fail to putting mains into USB) than threatening to the premises overall.
A couple of years ago I was talking to a Youth Hostel warden (i.e. commercial & residential work) where all the double-sockets (about 120) had been replaced with double+2*USB. I asked about the failure rate, and in a year, he'd not had one complaint of either a USB not giving charge, or a device being fried by the USB.
Your assertion would imply the failure rate is higher.
Explained everything so clearly.
Subscribed and will check out your other vids. Great work!
Awesome, thank you!
This was incredibly informative. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks. good advice and cleared up a few questions.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you
Thanks, this is very interesting and very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Learning about the history of typical installations was very interesting. Only yesterday another electrician mentioned the UK as having a weird system of wiring, now I know why!
Thanks for watching!
I learnt quite a few things from that, thanks !
Thank you, really appreciate that!
Very clearly and simply explained. 👍🏻
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
A lot of good information there, thank you
Thank you, really appreciate that!
very useful, and easy to understand, thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing! 👍🏾
Thanks for watching!
Very informative and interesting. My flat was rewired etc before I moved in and they put the kitchen sockets on a separate circuit due to that being where the most high power appliances are used, which is a great idea. Is the not taking a spur from a cooker the reason why you don't see cooker switches with sockets nowadays most of the time.
Thank you! I’m not sure, but you are right, they do seem to have fallen out of favour
They went out of favour when the first set of rules came out about fitting RCDs for socket outlets at it then meant you had to fit an RCD to the cooker circuit as well
@@grahampayne Thanks for the info. That makes sense.
I was rewiring a kitchen as a favour for a friend in the 90s.. Had every circuit in the house switched off except for the cooker circuit, which had a socket on the switch, into which I had a lamp plugged in, because it was evening and had gone dark. Pulled off an old socket about four feet away, clipped the cable, and flash, bang, and the lamp went out. Idiot DIYer who had owned the house before had wired it into the cooker circuit. I was lucky that the only damage was a blown (40 amp!) fuse and a big chunk melted out of my favourite wire cutters. Thankfully they were properly insulated.
These days I'd switch it all off, use a battery lamp, and still check for voltage before I touch it.
Brilliant! Concise and authoratitive.
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
This saved me a lot of time, thank you!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thanks nice well put together video. Happy that I meet all of your comments.
Except “safe plates”. Never heard of them? Never seen them, which the plumber and the electrician that did put house had used them. They look like a very good idea.
Are they a new thing?
Not sure how new they are, but definitely recommend using them. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, clear and concise 😊
Thank you, thanks for watching!
Subscribed. Fantastic content clearly delivered. Brilliant.
Much appreciated!
Thank you for a clear explanation.
Thanks for watching! Positive feedback always very appreciated
Nice job and good idea. Thanks for letting us know 🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you!
I seem to remember (about 12 months ago?) that the restriction on loads connected to the lighting circuit had been watered down a bit in an update to the wiring Regs. Something like changing from a complete ban to "a suitable low load"? A UA-cam from John Ward (Flameport electrics) mentioned it.
In my case, I needed to supply a 1 watt TV aerial distributor in the loft so have fed a 13 amp socket via a 1 amp fuse in a FCU from the lighting circuit (to me, that satisfies the spirit of the rules).
I’ll take a look, thank you!
Very helpful for rewiring the garage.
Glad it was helpful!
shudders!!!!!!
Ring circuits have been widespread in the UK for 75 years. They have been found to be *very safe.* The British G Type fuse-in-plug was to protect appliance flexes, however became an _enabler_ to use final ring circuits. The final ring circuit is ingenious in its simplicity. When used with the British G Type plug the ring is a busbar run around the house with distributed fuses at each appliance.
There are many *advantages* to rings:
▪️ Cheapness, as smaller easier to install wires can be used;
▪️ A large number of sockets can be off one cheap to install ring;
▪️ Having the same number of sockets using radials would mean multiple radials and multiple extra breakers at the main panel. Far more cable, expense, labour and hassle;
▪️ The 32A breaker and 13A fuse in the plug ensures safety;
▪️ Portable plug-in appliances on a ring cannot exceed approx 3kW. Some plug-in ovens are on rings;
▪️ Rings usually have a 32A breaker at the main panel - can be a lower value;
▪️ Using push-fit *maintenance free* Wago type connectors to connect up the ring adds safety, as not being screwed connections they do not work loose. The ring's current does not run through the socket terminals (this applies to radials);
▪️ The British plugs enable rings having a _max_ 13A fuse in them - can be as low as a 1A fuse in the plug to suit the appliance and flex/cable. Small flex and appliance? Then a smaller fuse;
▪️ Rings in the UK are limited by square metres of floor space, with no limit to the number of sockets on the ring. 100 square metres of floor space with 2.5mm cable for a 32 amp final ring. The cable can be 4mm, which is advisable in an unbalanced ring drawing high current loads;
▪️Less voltage drop on long cable lengths as voltage comes from two ways;
▪️Two ways for the earth wire back to the main panel, increasing safety levels.
Radials are also used in the UK. Rings are not mandatory, but used because they have proved to be generally trouble free and safe. They can be installed using *rule-of-thumb.* These days a ring will be on an RCD, RCBO or AFDD - these now are becoming DP, so safer again. AFDDs are now mandatory in some socket installations and _recommended_ in all installations. AFDDs raise the safety level. If an office wants more socket outlets for extra desk computers. It is a simple matter of extending the existing ring with the extra sockets as the current draw is low. Cheap and easy. If radials are used many radial circuits would be needed, which may mean an extra consumer unit, breakers, wire etc, then far more labour. Some *disadvantages* are:
▪️ Rings are more difficult to fault find. But electricians have no problem once the ring is fully understood. The ring can be split at a socket then tested as two radials;
▪️ Another is that if a number of high current drawing appliances are on one side of the ring, say nearer to the main panel, most of the current draw may be down one cable leg of the ring with the cable rated below the main 32A breaker. An unbalanced ring. 2.5mm cable is rated at 27A max. Although tests have proven the cables do not exceed their current capacity in the vast majority of cases, just an imbalance in distribution of the two cables from the main panel (consumer unit). *Good circuit design will prevent this, negating this* *_disadvantage._* Balanced rings can be installed by daisy chaining to _alternative_ socket outlets on the ring. That is the first appliance will draw from one side of the ring, the second socket will draw from the other side, and so on round-robin. Or use 4mm cable to the point where heavy current drawing appliances are, then 2.5mm for the rest, if it is that troubling for some. Using 4mm cable on one side of a ring and 2.5mm on the other, is still cheaper than a bunch of radial circuits.
Overall one ring is superior to a bunch of radials needing their own breakers at the main panel. They are simpler, cheaper, being proven to be safe and worked well over the past 75 years. Using the new AFDDs on rings, which are _recommended_ and mandatory on some installations, gives a *far higher* safety level.
You will have to give a very convincing argument against rings. I have not heard of one yet.
Thank you for such an in depth and well thought out comment!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759
A 4mm final ring circuit on an AFDD with Wago connections taking the rings load in the backboxes, and 2.5mm flex to the socket terminals is near bombproof.
Really good videos. Nice clear explanations at a digestible pace and without any bs. Subbed.
Do you know of any good sources of info for learning about how many amps to put safely on a circuit, what cables and fuses to use etc? Some software or interactive website would be ideal for testing different wiring combinations etc
Thank you, very kind of you to say so! I’m afraid I don’t have anything to recommend, sorry! Thanks for watching!
Consult a properly educated and trained electrician. There are many factors to take into consideration before connecting a cable to an electricity supply.
Fascinating and well described.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great info, well delivered.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for a very informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
I have never seen or heard of ring installations before (living in Germany). Always interesting to see what is regarded "normal" elswhere.
Thanks for watching!
All very useful thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative video - thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Brilliant video. Well done you.
Glad you enjoyed it!!
Great video. Thank you
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanations!
Thanks Lee! Thanks for watching!
Excellent! Thanks for this!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Very concise summary.
Thank you, very kind! Thanks for watching!
A few years ago, I went to a house to re-site a fitted wardrobe from one room to another. On pulling out the drawer unit, I came across a double socket box with both sides of the ring exposed - the socket had been removed to allow the drawer unit to fitback to the wall. No insulation tape; no strip connectors - nothing, just the exposed line, nuetral and earth hanging there. The ring was effectively broken, and had any of those conductors touched, any electrician would have had an impossible job, tracking down the fault. And all for the want of a trip to the nearest DIY store... and this was a 'proffesional' fitted furniture installer.
That’s terrible! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Excellent video thank you so much
Thank you, you’re very welcome!
Thanks,very informative!
Thanks for watching!!
Excellent delivery. Subscribed.
Thank you, very appreciated!
Great video. Subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
Nicely explained 👍🏼 very helpfull
Glad it was helpful!
All good common sense info . Thanks
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!
very informative excellent 👍many thanks
Very kind of you to say, thank you!
Ring circuits are extremelly rare in my country..not even sure were legal in the first place...most likely error in previous sparkies electrical work.
I had one by default where a doorway in a wall between kitchen and laundry had been deleted in the past & I was called to upgrade lighting in laundry.
The light switch feeds on either side of old door jam were joined together as one for laundry circuit lights but they were in fact 2 separate fed circuits from the board on their own fuses.
Took some headscratching to figure out why pulling each light fuse separate 1 by 1 not isolate the lights even went to isolate singley 1 by 1 every other fuse in board.. but turn off main switch only way to isolate..learning new stuff every day me.🙂
Interesting to hear! Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
At least I got an explanation for the odd ring system. Personally I run the rule of thumb to run 10A fuse on 1.5mm2 and 16A fuse on 2.5mm2.
If there's a need for more power it's easier to upgrade to 3-phase, which is common for residential in Sweden.
Thanks for watching!
Highly uncommon in the UK for houses to be supplied with 3 phase.
@@shilks8773 With electric cars you should expect it to be more common in new installations.
@@ehsnils Still not needed.
As stated in video If taking a spur off a ring it is good practice to fit a fused spur box ( the clue is in the name ) .... the fuses in UK plugs are also great as the fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the device. There are not many portable devices with plugs that can draw 13 amps, a kettle and a heater spring to mind. Good advice in this video...
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you for your video, could you please clarify on a radial circuit do you not have to have a bigger cable like a 4 mm
Thanks for watching! A radial on 2.5mm and a 20a MCB is standard, or radial on 4mm and a 32a MCB. You’ll need to consider cable runs and appropriate cable rating, but the numbers I’ve given are most common I find
Thanks very much
Excellent information, I fail to understand why any breaker would ever allow current high enough to damage wiring…I thought it is their job to protect it, regardless of how many extensions people make.What am I missing?
That’s the exact problem with rings. Thanks for watching!
How about running a radial in 4mm T&E from the ring?
Also.... if someone requires a socket in a loft its only going to be for either a light or a T.V amp so personally i would only git a single socket labelled up as T.V point ONLY.
Yep i think 4mm spur off a 32A ring would be absolutely fine. You might have a hard time getting 4mm and 2 x 2.5mm into the terminals though
when i run a spur i always use 2 runs of 2.5mm to a single double patress (and connect both in parrallel ) that way i have cable ready to go if i need to add extra sockets later i can convert my doubled spur into an extension of the ring, just by reconnecting one cable as the return of the ring how ever i have always wondered what method of joining cable ends together when you need to return the ring in or behind a patress ,are 3 individual 2way wagos acceptable? ive used those 20a round 3 way junction boxes but you only have room for those in loft space or under floor boards ,not in a wall
In theory i think a 3 way wago is okay, as you’re spurring off the ring. However i think it best practice to spur from a socket. Thanks for watching!
Can you please do a video on live neutral reverse etc.
Many thanks!
I’ll put it on the list, thanks for watching Adam!
well explained.
Thanks Graham!