I'm an automotive locksmith. When the Fobics came out an aftermarket company made 4 different ones our cost was $300 for each type. Now they are $600-$900. I couldn't do this repair and offer a warranty so I would have to replace it but this seems like a good fix for a DIY guy.
Man, you just saved me 1000$ cad. Had the same problem, went to dealership and of course they charged a full hour for diagnosis (179$ + tax= 225$). These C..k Su...r. wanted 883$ for the part + 1 hr of work to change it on top of the inspection price. Anyway, I refused, searched youtube and found your video! I did what another person suggested here, cleaned everything with the pressure of the contact cleaner (very low pressure) and so far it is working like a charm. If problem happens again, then I will remove the welding and separate for a better clean up. A huge thanks to you and a thousand thumbs down to Ram (Dodge) dealerships.
Definitely going to do this to my ram this weekend. Im not a mechanic but Id say I'm pretty mechanical. When my ram was having This issue , first thing I thought was it's either a issue with the key or the ignition node. I brought it to a local mechanic to see what he would say. Dude told me it was my transmission and I needed a new transmission. WTF hahaha , oh it is huh? Ok yea I'll be back lol
Depending on the wear on the contacts, it may only last about 6 months before it has issues again. Great to get your vehicle moving again in a pinch or a tight budget.
Guys just don't bend the contacts back to much or it will say the key is in the ignition all the time just cleaning the contacts with alcohol and some 1000 grit sandpaper usually does the trick
Saw this video a month ago when my ignition started acting up, finally got bad enough that I got around to it. Worked great, stressful for sure. But works flawlessly now. Will come back and update if I have any future issues.
I wonder if a person was careful, could you maybe clean the contact points with alcohol and a q tip, rather then take it apart. I dont have those soldering tools
@@mt406mechanics I've taken it apart a few more times and bent the pins back down with no success. It seems weird that it would have anything to do with it. I'd think they either make contact or not. I'm wondering if I screwed up one of the solder pads when removing the board and it's affecting things. Any other ideas to try to fix this before I am forced to go spend a bunch of money?
@@chadbendixsen It does seem weird but you're not the only one that this happens too, and I've seen it myself firsthand also. But I don't have any other ideas
I don’t know about this, not to doubt your method, but I have one fob that works almost always, the other only works sometimes, both have new batteries. I’m hesitant to open up my win, clean it, then have none of my fobs work and I’m stuck.
I definitely have a problem with ignition switch, have to wiggle to start the truck and even then I have the red security light on and beeping from it. Key fobs no longer unlock doors. Will this solve my problem or do I have further problems with the win module?
cant read key. key fob not working but at least when turned forward all the lights and all turned last night locksmith programmed my key again and door locks now work red security light is off so it apparently recognized key now but now the cluster or whatever lights up the dash isnt lighting dashhm
in hindsight do u think that just opening the win module in half and spraying it down with contact cleaner, aiming the straw at the contacts, without de-soldering would have been sufficient? maybe turn the key to different positions and spray it to make sure to get it all real good. btw thanks for demonstrating what the issue was, that's exactly what I've experienced on our 08' town & country, but only twice in about the last 6 months but ima gonna guess its gonna get worse so i want to nip the issue in the butt asap!
I used contact cleaner after cleaning with an eraser. The cleaner melted the coating on the circuit board. I don’t think the cleaner is needed. Don’t pull the board too hard when desoldering. I broke one of the wires on one of the pins. I was able to repair my mistake. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit to clean out the 5 holes in the board before reassembly. Made it a lot easier. Switch works like a champ now.
I have replaced my WIN module on a 2011 town and country. It failed again with a no start condition and security light flashing. Fobiks still operate all functions except remote start and when actually used in the switch. Does the wiper contact issue cause a security system lock down? Weighing my options before tearing the dash out again.
My truck mysteriously died at highway speed, lights stayed on but dash reset, then seconds later fired up again. It's since died in park and had trouble starting a few times. (No codes) The other night I realized jiggling the key may have an effect. Hope this may be my issue..
my truck starts everything but the key unlock and lock function dont move the lock solenoid in the doors the lights flash tho if you press unlock i know there is nothing on the truck side (jeep) because if i take the key and win module from my other truck and plug it in it locks and unlocks obviously with the programmed key for the win module and obviously wont start since its the pcm isent progrrammed to that module, and i have 4 keys for my original win module so something in the win module that outputs the signal isent working do you have a idea?
OPEN THE ALARM CONTROL AND RE-ATTATCH THE LITTLE METLE PLATES. WHAT HAPPENS IS WITH TIME THEY MOVE FROM WHERE THEY HAVE TO BE IN ORDER FOR IT TO WORK. HOPE THAT HELPS
@@mt406mechanics This is my issue. 2011 Ram 1500 5.7 with remote start also. I insert the key, turn it and the engine spins but will not start. I use the remote start feature. It starts but only runs for a second and shuts off. Is this an issue with my WIN or something else.
@@mt406mechanics I understand the copper wrapping of posts make good connections. That wire is designed to fail. As I was working the solder out of one of the posts, I actually pulled the post out with the board, snapping that wire. I melted the plastic around the post to be able to get a good dab of solder on that wire to hard connect it to the post. Few hundred miles and quite a few bumps and no issues so far.
I'm an automotive locksmith. When the Fobics came out an aftermarket company made 4 different ones our cost was $300 for each type. Now they are $600-$900. I couldn't do this repair and offer a warranty so I would have to replace it but this seems like a good fix for a DIY guy.
Factory mopar wins are going for 200 bucks
Just did this on my 2012 2500,I just used a air in can to blow away the solder,worked great,thanks for the video and tips!saved me a bunch of $
Not a bad idea but, always be careful where you blow the solder. It could end up shorting a tiny connection you can't see.
Man, you just saved me 1000$ cad. Had the same problem, went to dealership and of course they charged a full hour for diagnosis (179$ + tax= 225$).
These C..k Su...r. wanted 883$ for the part + 1 hr of work to change it on top of the inspection price.
Anyway, I refused, searched youtube and found your video!
I did what another person suggested here, cleaned everything with the pressure of the contact cleaner (very low pressure) and so far it is working like a charm.
If problem happens again, then I will remove the welding and separate for a better clean up.
A huge thanks to you and a thousand thumbs down to Ram (Dodge) dealerships.
Thanks for this video I just fix my ignition switch and save $1500
Wow $1500, at the dealer or mechanic shop?
Thanks man! Worked for me. Saved me a bunch of money and down time. My ram was so bad it would shut off headlights and all driving down the road.
Lo limpié esta mañana ya no se a apagado gracias por el consejo 😊
Definitely going to do this to my ram this weekend. Im not a mechanic but Id say I'm pretty mechanical. When my ram was having This issue , first thing I thought was it's either a issue with the key or the ignition node. I brought it to a local mechanic to see what he would say. Dude told me it was my transmission and I needed a new transmission. WTF hahaha , oh it is huh? Ok yea I'll be back lol
Life saver! Starts every time now.
Awesome video, fixed my problem. Thank you!
Depending on the wear on the contacts, it may only last about 6 months before it has issues again. Great to get your vehicle moving again in a pinch or a tight budget.
Awesome! Little tricky but worked like a charm. Thank you!
Guys just don't bend the contacts back to much or it will say the key is in the ignition all the time just cleaning the contacts with alcohol and some 1000 grit sandpaper usually does the trick
Thank you so much. Half Million TRX back in order
Good vid; these WINs were a terribly WEAK design. 'Glad more intrepid folks are cracking these open to perform the simple fixes.
Use flux on the braid it helps it suck up the solder better.
As Louis Rossman says, you can never have too much flux
@@LucasLeCompteMusic lol. Flux that capacitor lmfao.
Saw this video a month ago when my ignition started acting up, finally got bad enough that I got around to it.
Worked great, stressful for sure. But works flawlessly now. Will come back and update if I have any future issues.
2 months later still flawless
About two years, still solid.
@@tedduemo8265
Appreciate the updates!
Everyrone goes through the soldering hassle, but clearly, the contacts can be cleaned without removing the PCB. I believe they designed it that way...
Get a can of computer air duster for the final sticking. Just heat and blow at the same time.
Check recall for your vehicle. 2009+ Dodge Grand Caravan had a recall for WIN problems.
I wonder if a person was careful, could you maybe clean the contact points with alcohol and a q tip, rather then take it apart. I dont have those soldering tools
Worked great, thank you so much. Only problem is now it thinks the Key is always in the ignition even when it's not. Any ideas?
Yeah that happens sometimes.. I found if you've bend the prongs to hard or to much that happens
@@mt406mechanics I've taken it apart a few more times and bent the pins back down with no success. It seems weird that it would have anything to do with it. I'd think they either make contact or not. I'm wondering if I screwed up one of the solder pads when removing the board and it's affecting things. Any other ideas to try to fix this before I am forced to go spend a bunch of money?
@@chadbendixsen It does seem weird but you're not the only one that this happens too, and I've seen it myself firsthand also. But I don't have any other ideas
Thanks so much work perfect for me
I don’t know about this, not to doubt your method, but I have one fob that works almost always, the other only works sometimes, both have new batteries. I’m hesitant to open up my win, clean it, then have none of my fobs work and I’m stuck.
From my personal experience, I would say your fob is the issue. Especially when you have no issue with the other fob.
I definitely have a problem with ignition switch, have to wiggle to start the truck and even then I have the red security light on and beeping from it. Key fobs no longer unlock doors. Will this solve my problem or do I have further problems with the win module?
07-30-2021. Has this cleaning still held up and fixed your issues?
Mine is still working perfectly nearly 3 months now.
how about my situation. ran scan tool on 2014 dodge caravan no start no crsnk and red light in dash flashing(security). and it said it com by
cant read key. key fob not working but at least when turned forward all the lights and all turned last night locksmith programmed my key again and door locks now work red security light is off so it apparently recognized key now but now the cluster or whatever lights up the dash isnt lighting dashhm
in hindsight do u think that just opening the win module in half and spraying it down with contact cleaner, aiming the straw at the contacts, without de-soldering would have been sufficient? maybe turn the key to different positions and spray it to make sure to get it all real good.
btw thanks for demonstrating what the issue was, that's exactly what I've experienced on our 08' town & country, but only twice in about the last 6 months but ima gonna guess its gonna get worse so i want to nip the issue in the butt asap!
It's very possible yes
I used contact cleaner after cleaning with an eraser. The cleaner melted the coating on the circuit board. I don’t think the cleaner is needed. Don’t pull the board too hard when desoldering. I broke one of the wires on one of the pins. I was able to repair my mistake. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit to clean out the 5 holes in the board before reassembly. Made it a lot easier. Switch works like a champ now.
It work🎉🎉. But now my key don’t come out?
This has just happened to me also
Have you had any luck in fixing the issue?
I have replaced my WIN module on a 2011 town and country. It failed again with a no start condition and security light flashing. Fobiks still operate all functions except remote start and when actually used in the switch. Does the wiper contact issue cause a security system lock down? Weighing my options before tearing the dash out again.
It could, yes
did u figure it out
Did it but now the panel say damaged key. Haven't broken nothing.
Did the vehicle have an issue previously with shutting off or flashing ignition when hitting a big bump?
Not this one
My truck mysteriously died at highway speed, lights stayed on but dash reset, then seconds later fired up again. It's since died in park and had trouble starting a few times. (No codes) The other night I realized jiggling the key may have an effect. Hope this may be my issue..
will this cause a red security light no start problem no crank
No
Has anyone found a replacement key ignition solution? Sure would make life easy. Does it need to be reprogrammed?
No programming required if you fix your original
my truck starts everything but the key unlock and lock function dont move the lock solenoid in the doors the lights flash tho if you press unlock i know there is nothing on the truck side (jeep) because if i take the key and win module from my other truck and plug it in it locks and unlocks obviously with the programmed key for the win module and obviously wont start since its the pcm isent progrrammed to that module, and i have 4 keys for my original win module so something in the win module that outputs the signal isent working do you have a idea?
I dont off hand..
OPEN THE ALARM CONTROL AND RE-ATTATCH THE LITTLE METLE PLATES. WHAT HAPPENS IS WITH TIME THEY MOVE FROM WHERE THEY HAVE TO BE IN ORDER FOR IT TO WORK. HOPE THAT HELPS
@@bigjohny702 same problem. Can u elaborate? U mean in the fob itself or somewhere else?
What happens if you do that and now it says the “key is in ignition”? And just dings
I'd say the contacts are not right. If you bent them bend them back. Try some contact cleaner or alcohol on them
@@mt406mechanics i appreciate it, I’ll try that and see what happens
@@mt406mechanics I forgot to add that when I unplug the win module it still dings and says key in the ignition any thoughts on that?
Is this a service you offer? If so, where abounts in MT?
No not really, but I am I MT...
So, all you really do is gain access to the tracks and clean them and you have yourself a functioning win module?
Yes!
@@mt406mechanics This is my issue. 2011 Ram 1500 5.7 with remote start also. I insert the key, turn it and the engine spins but will not start. I use the remote start feature. It starts but only runs for a second and shuts off. Is this an issue with my WIN or something else.
@@monroefive-o40 It doesn't seem like it to me. The autostart shouldn't be effected by the WIN
@@monroefive-o40 fuel pump maybe failing.
Is the little copper wire that's wrapped around the post actually the only connection on that post? What a ridiculous design
It's a circuit board connection, yes
@@mt406mechanics I understand the copper wrapping of posts make good connections. That wire is designed to fail. As I was working the solder out of one of the posts, I actually pulled the post out with the board, snapping that wire. I melted the plastic around the post to be able to get a good dab of solder on that wire to hard connect it to the post. Few hundred miles and quite a few bumps and no issues so far.
*contacts and fingers
Epic fail. Now it tells me that me key is in the ignition when it is not.