Video Request: Please do the following parts replacement videos on the Prius (which can result in more part sales): - ABS brake actuator replacement. - Coolant (water) pump replacement for both the engine and inverter. Thanks for all the awesome videos that help many folks out.
their is a big problem which i notice only in my Prius 3rd generation the problem is that there is some kind of leaking from the break paddle... does anyone face same problem if yes so please tell
I just replaced my 2011 prius with a 2015. My 2011 had 250k miles on all original parts. Only things that were changed were filters, oil, tires, wipers and light bulbs. THATS IT. I did have to pull the egr valve and exhaust manifold for a cleaning. Extremely impressed. I started leaking a little bit of oil after about 175k miles, but nothing noticeable, as it didn't leak enough to drip to the ground. I think this is due to a few gaskets that should have been changed way before 250k miles. Before I sell it, I plan on replacing the original rotors, original brake pads, and refurbishing the original hybrid battery. Most impressive reliability I have ever experienced. Considering that I drove the prius 6 days a week and had it running anywhere from 12-16 hrs a day. That much mechanical movement, and so little problems is an engineering feat. Hopefully the 2015 won't do much worse.
I have a 2010 blue prius with leather heated seats, and solar roof and it has 230,000 miles. It is still going strong. Takes me to work everyday. I bought it with 130,000 miles and did the brakes ABS recall for free. I bought it for $6,800 a few years ago.
My Gen3 bought new from Jul 2009. HV battery failed in 2018 at around 280,000km just out of warranty. Local repairer refurbished battery for me for AUD1,500 (USD1,000). Only other major repair was replacement of leaky front struts. Now 350,000km and going strong. Still on original brake pads. Burns a little bit of oil but nothing excessive.
Also some other problems that came up during 11-year use of my 2010 prius(mostly highway usage): 1) strange noise when accelerating between 15mph and 29mph - feels like timing chain not catching grooves or engine mounts are broken, but no one is able to pinpoint what that could be. Problem seems to not affect vehicle operation and has been like that for 5 years. 2) rear underbody/under fuel tank sway bar rusted out. Taped it with duck tape as I could not find the proper replacement on internet. Need to go to dealer to look up. 3) You may have to install Cat security plate - see forums on how cats are being stolen. 4) Tire pressure light won't go away no matter what - this happened on year 7 of operation. Sometimes when all 4 inflated precisely to spec - it does go away, but even the slightest variation sets it back. Annoying a bit but just check your wheels visually, which is what everyone needs to do anyhow. 5) winter tires will make you feel everything 6)All front light bulbs, including main light bulbs (H11s) serve about 3-4 years then need replacement. Passenger side one is tricky - need small hands. Better to replace with something more dependable - I replaced all smaller ones with leds. 7) even if you're a good driver, people will cut you off because of their prius driver perception.
your tpms sensors need replacement. Besides that you are unlucky with the lights. I've only replaced the main beams twice and nothing else at 200k at 12 years now.
I have the 2012 prius. Drove 200.000 km with it. Luckily I didn’t had any of that problem. And i’m planning to keep it for 50.000 km more. Good tip with the led plate lights
A few pieces of advice about the 2010 and 2011 Prius: 1) Install a clip on battery fan filter, available at the dealer. FIRST, clean the battery fan! I did mine yesterday at 103K. It was not clogged, but had sticky grime on the fins. Keeping this fan clean will prolong the life of your high voltage battery by keeping it cool! 2) Change the 12-Volt battery every five years or sooner if the lights dim a lot when you turn off the car. A weak 12-Volt battery causes all sorts of issues with the Prius electrical system, and it's a real pain if it dies when you are on the road. 3) Change oil every 5000 miles if you expect to keep the car for 200,000 miles or more. Our 2009 still purrs at 201,000! 4) Read The *Fine* Manual! These cars are amazing, and you should know why, and how to keep them that way.
Most reliable car ever. But… I was constantly replacing headlight bulbs. Until I switched to LeD on my third gen. It has 183k miles on it now. Still running strong. Have only replaced the O2 sensor and brakes so far. Best car I’ve ever owned. Will buy a Prius prime next
I have a 2015 Prius with 205,000 miles . Extremely reliable car all i do is oil changes & buy tires & gas . Strangely i have replaced alot of headlight bulbs & some marker bulbs but thats it . At 150,000 i replaced front break pads myself by watching a video by this channel . At 205,000k & 8.5 yrs old im getting warning that hybrid battery cooling system is low . Dealer mechanic told me theres a filter at back seat that filters the air going to battery cooling fan . I popped off the cover & it was caked with dog hair & filth . I scraped off a fistful of hair & vacuumed the rest . Now when driving i can faintly hear the suction of fan working . (Sounds good) Hopefully its fixed & just need to reset the warning on dash . I was supposed to have 1 gallon of battery coolant & plastic mesh filter changed every 100,000 at dealer for $500 which is highly overpriced . Now i should flush both engine coolant & hybrid battery coolants with new coolant .
I’m from uk London and I have a 2012 Toyota Prius and you are very correct mate I have had the EGR Valve issue and my Mecanic recommended changing water pump you forget to mention the back seat filter gets clogged up you need to remove this and clean it it’s for the hybrid battery
I have a 2012 Prius with 265,000, still running on the original hybrid battery. Recently however, the following failed; - Water pump and head gasket $3,000 to repair. - Brake master cylinder and brake actuator $2,800 to repair
@@StevenPenny Fronts surely need to replaced two or more times . But the rears might never need to. I had the 2005 Prius which ran 14 years with the original set of brakes. Finally I decided to replace them just for the sake of it but found out they were still not completely worn out.
Also the low beam headlights go out every few months due to the headlight harness having too much voltage. It was a Toyota extended coverage for a bit but I missed it- now have to live with replacing headlights.
I just purchased the 2010 Toyota Prius 4 with the solar panel package a couple of weeks ago. 171k miles strong and thankfully no issues mentioned in this video. However I had to to replace some headlights after they went out at the same time, which was an easy fix, but tedious to get to. I even took it to my local Toyota dealer for recalls. Batteries are still good. My only concern is the braking system. The brakes still function, but I'll have it looked over soon just to be safe. Other than that I really like my car and it gets me from point A to B without any problems.
Brakes on Prius models last a long long time if driven gentle because regenerative braking while letting off gas & light foot on brake pedal spin up the motor generator which slows the vehicle down without engaging the brake pad rotor friction brakes // the regen also charges the HV battery with energy that can help assist the engine at moving the Prius when accelerating or driving steady state //
I will add one problem. When my 2013 Prius battery died, tow truck driver could not put the Prius in neutral to pull it up the tow truck ramp. He had to call a 2nd truck to actually lift the car up on a wheel ramp. So the problem is, if the Prius electric system is dead, the Prius will not shift into neutral. My 2013 Prius battery just up and died yesterday in the parking lot at 85,000 miles.
Love my 2012 Prius 170,000 miles, same brake pads that were new in 2012! Rarely use my brakes. Cruise control and I capture the energy with the Cruise control lever, regenerative braking.
Best car i ever bought. Most reliable, low repair cost and real good resale value. Will be buying a 2024 prius again because they are japan manufactured 👍
I have 2014 prius, he is right about light bulb and headlight problems I replaced all the bulbs with LED bulbs no more problem, and yes I did replace the water pump once but now it's good
I got my 2012 Prius deluxe model in 2016 from a one owner with Toyota service history. Five years on the only thing I have had to replace was the coolent system for the hybrid motor, at a cost of €700. An ordinary combustion engine would cost €400 but that's the only thing other than the basic €300 annual service from a main Toyota service dealer on the Nangor road. Over 300,000 km on clock and not a bother . Will most likely replace this 3rd gen model for the 4th and improved model. Reliability is addictive!
Today is November 2024. I bought my 3rd Gen Prius December 2015 and I have never encountered any of these issues. But they mentioned in problem #5 about plate lights and I've never had any issues since I replaced them lights on the very first day I bought it so there's that. 😂 113k miles and still going strong.
Hybrid 3rd Generation Prius 2013 at 247,000 miles head gasket went bad. The only problem I have every had in ten years of ownership. Had Gasket Masters replace it. I hope to get another 200,000 miles.
They burn oil too. You really need to install an oil catch can due to the postion of the PCV valve. Which causes oil to get thrown into the EGR cooler assembly, which in turn is why those EGR coolers get clogged up with carbon deposits.
Some burn oil. I had a 2010 Prius that apparently became magnetized: it was sideswiped by a guy who didn't look before darting out of his lane, hit in the driver door by a deer, and finished off when a young lady who thought it was okay to drive with uncontrolled seizures smashed the passenger side - all in a six month span. It never used measurable oil between changes, and neither does our 2014. I suspect oil change interval affects it: the maintenance and warranty booklet specifies 10K mile changes, while the reminder light is 5K mile intervals. The Toyota Master Tech at The Car Care Nut highly recommends the 5K mile interval.
Oil catch can is another gimmick that people that doesn’t work. No one has been able to show a proof before and after, except can fool of stuff that proves nothing except causes low vacuum due extra hoses.
I have a 2012 Prius hatchback with 142,000 miles and I’ve never had a problem with it burning oil or low oil levels. I do get it serviced faithfully and go by the manufactures suggestions. Maybe that has helped. 🤷🏻♂️ Weird how this is a problem for some and not others.
I started getting a problem with cylinder # 2. I put in a 1/2 bottle of Bar's head gasket sealer and drove about 40k miles before the hybrid system went bad. 2011 prius with 200k miles at failure.
My water pump went out at about 220k miles. I replaced it myself. Some bolts were tough to get to but doable with the right tools. Need to drain and replace coolant as well. I was gonna replace the thermostat but didn’t have the right tool to reach a certain bolt.
Same problem, got a quote 300 less. It was under recall till a specific mileage/years of life. I had another problem in the past that was a recall, but unless you do your research and present them the information they will try to stick you. Luckily, I have an honest and trustworthy Toyota dealership here. Others will treat you as bait and lure you in! DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE BRINGING YOUR CAR TO A MECHANIC/DEALERSHIP!
I have a 2010 and I find that if you change the oil at 5000 miles you will not have a head gasket problem. The low beams are an issue went to LEDS and had one burn out after 4 years. I changed plugs and the EGR and EGR cooler at 200,000 plus the intake cleaning which was a waste of money, seems like if you put highway miles on them you do not get that problem. Changed the PVC valve when i had the intake off and the water pump at the 200,000 mark preventive measurements you might say. I find that the wheel bearings are another issue third set on the back second on the front. 46 oil changes 7 air filters 4 set of tires 2 speed sensors on the rear, that throws the braking system in to a frinzy LOL. I also have a 2015 with 28,000 mile and it did the same thing wheel sensors 100 bucks 1 hour to put them in. The starter battery is coming up about 7 years if your lucky, pushing 6 on it now another good time when that goes. But the car has never let me down and I do 325 miles one way and another 325 back to the work area. All in all easy to work on if you have some skills and when you get to know the cars quirks its all good
2011 Prius- just changed the plate bulbs to LED’s. Unfortunately, nav screen went out years ago and it’s too expensive to replace. I’ve heard nav screens on this generation go out a lot
My husband and I just bought a 2010 Prius with 169K miles on it for $3,000 (because the original owner didn’t want to pay to get the hybrid battery replaced), but overall, everything mostly works ! The car still drives well, everything functions, vehicle body has minor dings, all lights and electronics work, and we just had the interior steam cleaned so it’s like brand new again ✨ We just ordered a hybrid battery replacement from Rock Auto for $2,600+ and the dealership will charge us $500 for the install. Overall, we will have paid
egr valve yes, the other problems mentioned? never heard of them, i have a fleet of 8 of these cars which i rent out, they have from 90k miles to 350k miles, the hybrid battery will go every 150k (£500, $720 job) other than that the most reliable car ever produced!! (even more than the mk4 prius)
Good points, since buying one of the so-called ‘problem’ 2010 vehicles, I’ve found there is a serial number after which the much-mentioned ‘oil burning’ was corrected. Mine’s after that serial number but I didn’t know anything about this until I read on Prius Chat about the serial number cut-off point. The bulbs is a great point - many, many car bulbs of the conventional filament type, that are small, burn the plastic something rotten, I guess mainly in summer use in daylight hours. Once you fit LEDs, you are more able to confidently use the lights in daytime temperatures. Maybe in the middle of the desert it’s irrelevant, but in ‘tree tunnels’ or deeply shaded ‘skyscraper corridors’ the daylight use of lights isn’t a half bad idea. From headlamp bulb investigations, it seems the thermal issues are actually quite finely-calculated, and manufacturers not using daylight running lights, may expressly have created the lamps for night-time (cooler) driving conditions, hence they pop a lot if you drive in daylight with them on. The number plate bulbs are the worst offenders though, and only a compact LED will fit, here’s my tip: ONLY buy LEDs where the vendor stipulates a Lumens number! Don’t let them fool you with the high ‘whiteness’ numbers like 6,000, it’s nothing to do with how much light is given out…you are looking for 430Lm (Lumens of brightness) and so on, a really bright small bulb reaches up to 800Lm. My little front lobby at home has domestic type bulbs of 270Lm, but there’s three of them and it’s only 6 foot square. My best tip is I now realise people with overly-bright number plate bulbs are not in fact idiots - I am, for not realising it’s because there are regulations limiting reversing lamp power…so people fit high brightness LEDs to the rear number plate bulb sockets, because that adds considerably to rear visibility when night-time parking, especially with a camera-dependent system for reversing assistance. Toyota use that a lot, and I don;t mind it, but probably would rather have beepers - indeed many fit body-coloured beepers from the aftermarket, and this I oughtta do. Thanks again for the vid. [Edit: there’s one more thing I have a theory about the piston-ring issues. Bearing in mind many people don’t run Prius vehicles hard, apart from me I think !, it is possible, that these earlier ‘problem’ piston-ring Prius cars have not really bee run-in properly, even if several years old. My theory is, the small ridge that forms at the edge of the piston-ring stroke, is just a fraction lower in vehicles that have never been run hard at maximum throttle. Then, one day, maybe 30,000 miles in, or 3 years on, the owner or a new owner, does one hard run on the freeway/motorway…this, causes a sudden breakage as at some point the tiny, minuscule wear-ridge gets hit by the piston ring at high rpm (5,000rpm or so on a Prius). I had a motorcycle with this wear-ridge issue because despite being 9 years old when I bought it, nobody had resolved a mixture issue, I did with a different carb jet eventually. So the bike had never been run at high rpm cos you could not make it go there! Mixture fixed, I found it went great, but there was a slight audible ‘tinkling’ sound when I really opened it up (9,500 rpm, valves bouncing). The more I opened it up, the less the tinkling sound happened. Eventually, it has disappeared, took about 1,500 miles or so of occasional thrashing? Because I read about this issue, I knew to open it up gradually. This, I believe is the issue or perhaps the easiest way to’fix’ the ‘weak-ring’ 2010 Prius cars, but this is also a high-risk way to do it, they might break a ring anyway, as that wear-ridge is not as minuscule after say 70,000 miles, as my bike one was after 5,000 miles. But, I have made sure I thrashed my Prius occasionally anyway. All vehicles are like this, and it’s worse nowadays with all the pollution gubbins fitted - they really do need a good blast now and again to get rid of accumulated soot and so on. Anyway, take care all, you do what you feel is best in your situation - my stuff works for me, might not work for you, don’t risk your prized possession on my experience alone.]
Yea, according the the forums, it seems oil burn leads to EGR clog which leads to head gasket failure. They recommend an oil catch can and EGR service. The EGR service is not easy to do. The 2012 and newer don’t seem to have the oil burn issues nearly as often.
@@mylesgray3470 I think they changed the design from 2012 didn't they? EGR cleanout is a pain but I did mine bit by bit over a few days so I didn't get frustrated with it.
@@wrozay Yep, a problem I am going through right now. While it still drives ok, the coolant level drops slowly over a few days with no external leaks evident, so there's only one place it's going so it's just a matter of time (I'm hardly driving it now though) I recently changed the fuel pump, thermostat, cleaned out the air intake and whole EGR system. It actually helped somewhat but after a few weeks I was getting the occasional shuddery engine issues again. 2010 w/ 268k miles. Sucks because other than that the car is great. I'm not confident enough to try a head gasket job so I dunno, might have to offload it :(
Hey Boss I ve Toyota Prius plus 2016 reg showing me “p lock malfunction “do you have any idea what it could be ,coz I v Been to many mechanic and electricians but no one find out
Thanks, I have a 2015 model 3 Prius 5 door. So far I have 130,000 miles and no problems about half mileage is freeway driving. The dealer suggested changing the inverter coolant and at 115,000 miles they did the engine coolant, you would have thought they would have done both at the same time ? Plus they said I needed a Service Throttle Body procedure done ? Is this really needed ? Could you do a video on this ? I live in So California. I subscribed to your channel and hoping to see more videos on the 2015 Prius, thanks Joey
The TB clean is a good idea. The engine has a 13:1 mechanical compression ratio, tamed by Miller valve timing. That means it burps soot into the intake. A dirty throttle body often shows up as the same sort of soft rattle at "idle" that you get with worn out spark plugs: the planetary gearset rattles if power delivery is light and unsteady.
soo my 2011 has had water pump go out, bad headlight harness, head gasket on it's way out, navigation out at 120K and at about 120 had the brake accuator pump replaced which I later learned is a computer issues since it makes the same noise off and on for 3 years. However after letter to Toyota I got a check in the mail for the brake repair. I will never ever trust a Toyota dealership again, at least in Mesa.
Forgot the most important. Brake booster and actuator assembly to the tune of $1400 bucks for parts. About $3000 with labor at the dealer. A special “campaign” is in effect if you qualify 150k or 10 years from in service date. My 13 was out of warranty and I went used and had to do the job all over again. New parts and follow the bleed procedure to the letter. A pain in the ass, but not super hard.
2010 3rd gen 300.000km HUD not working, the buttons iluminate when i press but nothing appears on the glass, any solution please? Also a warnirg for others, water pump worked normally no chek engine, but the fan inside was destroyed , water not circulating, thank God i had external temp meter and i prevented the damage .
My 2014 makes these short squeaking noises. not squealing but squeaking. it lasts less than a second but just randomly happens with no pattern. it's coming from under the hood but no idea what it is.
We have also seen the coolant heat exchangers leak in the exhaust and lose coolant. You can loop The lines if you live in a warm climate and don’t need heat
I had to get my entire fule pump and liners replaces at 200k miles on my 2014. That really sucked $$$ but it's running good again. I do average 100 miles a day and have left the car running overnight a few times when traveling
I had a problem with my Prius fuel gage and the dealership didn't charge to recalibrate it. That being said I also brought my car in for other maintains, so maybe if you just had them recalibrate it they would charge.
Gen 3 Prius was a bit of a flub. If you’re you’re thinking of purchasing one after this video you should be made aware of a couple things. The first 4 years of this generation were fitted with a new style low tension ring set on the pistons. Toyota was trying to squeeze out as much MPG as possible by reducing friction. This led to major oil consumption in vehicles that were pushed too many miles/KMs between oil changes. There is a TSB from Toyota on this. Next… The Exhaust Gas Recirculation(EGR) system was a new design. It has a very small cooler, combined with a valve(he points this out in the video) which plugs with carbon over time. The carbon that gets past the cooler and valve mixes with copious amounts of oil condensate(from a poorly designed PCV setup) at the top of the air intake manifold and forms a sludge. This slowly blocks the 4 EGR ports over time. Because the EGR gas enters the manifold from the side, the first ports clog up which leaves cylinder 1 & 2 to get extra EGR inputs. This increased exhaust leads to highest combustion pressure in cylinder 1. Which leads to the biggest issue with gen 3 Prius, they blow head gaskets at cylinder 1. Do an internet search, you’ll see. If you’re going to buy a gen 3, have a mechanic test for a blown head gasket first. If it’s not blown and you buy it, immediately have the EGR serviced(an oil catch can to reduced the amount of PCV oil getting into the combustion chambers isn’t a bad idea too). It’s not hard to do yourself and there are tons of videos tutorials. Because you don’t want to find yourself soon browsing hundreds of videos detailing how to repair your blown head gasket. Cheers!
The piston rings and head gaskets were updated in 2012 and seem to have a lot less issues. That’s why I bought a 2013. I’m at 107k and no noticeable oil burn, even after 7,500 miles when it’s time to change the oil.
For 3rd gen Prius try to avoid 2010-2011 models, those seem to be most problematic, (as is with any first year models of any generation) they are more prone to oil consumption and head gasket failure most importantly. Subtle revisions on the 2012-2015 (EGR and intake manifold designs) models made these issues less common and in general more reliable. For reference my 2012 consumes exactly 1.76 quarts of oil for every 10,000 miles, this is a negligible amount compared to many 2010-2011 models. It is paramount when first buying a 3rd gen to open up the EGR, Intake Manifold, and PCV system and do a proper cleaning. After a proper cleaning run a Oil catch can from the PCV system to prevent the EGR system from clogging up the lines once again and leading to other major issues like a failed head gasket. As mentioned in other comments here, the PCV system was placed far to low on the engine (first time Toyota introduced EGR and PCV combination on Prius, 1st and 2nd gen did not suffer same issues) causing aforementioned clogging issues so it is imperative you run a catch can. Besides the major emissions components issue they are fairly bullet proof end very reliable. I have put 50k miles on mine (bought at 94k now currently has 144k) and have done nothing to it besides what I have mentioned above and regular service (filters, fluids, spark plugs, etc.) and it still has the original Hybrid battery too. The gauge cluster and fuel gauge issue don't seem to be that common of an issue, perhaps more common on the 2010-2011 models. I have never heard of the rear license plate issue but I have also changed out all my bulbs with LED bulbs and the original owner of my vehicle whom I bought the Prius was already using LED bulbs for the rear plate.
3rd gen is 2010-2015 year. However the issues seem to be more common with the 2010-2011 year and seem to be less common from 2012-2015. Preventative maintenance is key to avoiding bigger issues as mention by this original comment.
Rough starts were getting worse, so dealer said it was the Head gasket, and quoted a ridiculous $6400.00 to fix, then an outside Prius mechanic quoted $4200.00? we're in our 70s & have No Saving, and live on SSI, so i learned about Blue Devil, and for $80.00 we fixed the problem for 2-Wonderful Years, but it eventually came back, and i tried the Blue Devil again, and No Go, i began experiencing (Red Overheating Light) @56-70Mph, and in most cases turns off soon after, but the Overflow eventually empties out also, so i received Covid-19 Stimulus Money, and replaced Heat Sensor, Thermostat, Water-pump, and Radiator(All factory parts) but Didn't stop the overheat Light turning on @65-70mph, i also replaced the Coolant many times since i replaced all parts, but Light still turns on, so Gasket Masters dropped a Rebuilt Motor in, and it works great, but Red Light still comes on@65-70mph, and No Heat comes out of the heater, even though everything appears to work perfect, Is the (Blend Door Actuator) stuck? ...or is the heater core plugged up? should i replace the Heater Core and Sensor? either way i cannot take the car on any long trip, but never overheats around town? Am i doomed to never leave my neighborhood, or am i missing something? (((Please Help)))
should have mention head gasket. if your engine starts shaking really bad when you first start it could be leaking coolant in the cylinder causing the spark plug not to fire. my 2010 prius head gasket started leaking at around 150,000 miles. toyota dealership charges over 4,000 dollars to replace.head gasket. another shop specialize in prius charges 4,000 for a rebuilt engine from Japan. I took the cheap way buying Bars Head Gasket Sealer with the fibers for 50.00. after a year it still holding up.
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Video Request:
Please do the following parts replacement videos on the Prius (which can result in more part sales):
- ABS brake actuator replacement.
- Coolant (water) pump replacement for both the engine and inverter.
Thanks for all the awesome videos that help many folks out.
+STARFLEET COMMAND Thanks for watching! We'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
their is a big problem which i notice only in my Prius 3rd generation the problem is that there is some kind of leaking from the break paddle... does anyone face same problem if yes so please tell
You know it is a reliable car if they start to mention "light bulbs going wrong".
I just replaced my 2011 prius with a 2015. My 2011 had 250k miles on all original parts. Only things that were changed were filters, oil, tires, wipers and light bulbs. THATS IT. I did have to pull the egr valve and exhaust manifold for a cleaning. Extremely impressed. I started leaking a little bit of oil after about 175k miles, but nothing noticeable, as it didn't leak enough to drip to the ground. I think this is due to a few gaskets that should have been changed way before 250k miles. Before I sell it, I plan on replacing the original rotors, original brake pads, and refurbishing the original hybrid battery.
Most impressive reliability I have ever experienced. Considering that I drove the prius 6 days a week and had it running anywhere from 12-16 hrs a day. That much mechanical movement, and so little problems is an engineering feat. Hopefully the 2015 won't do much worse.
400,000 kilometers and my 2013 Prius still runs like a dream. No major problems other than water pump change once.
on how many kilometers did you change the water pump?
I have a 2010 blue prius with leather heated seats, and solar roof and it has 230,000 miles. It is still going strong. Takes me to work everyday. I bought it with 130,000 miles and did the brakes ABS recall for free. I bought it for $6,800 a few years ago.
My Gen3 bought new from Jul 2009. HV battery failed in 2018 at around 280,000km just out of warranty. Local repairer refurbished battery for me for AUD1,500 (USD1,000). Only other major repair was replacement of leaky front struts.
Now 350,000km and going strong. Still on original brake pads. Burns a little bit of oil but nothing excessive.
Also some other problems that came up during 11-year use of my 2010 prius(mostly highway usage):
1) strange noise when accelerating between 15mph and 29mph - feels like timing chain not catching grooves or engine mounts are broken, but no one is able to pinpoint what that could be. Problem seems to not affect vehicle operation and has been like that for 5 years.
2) rear underbody/under fuel tank sway bar rusted out. Taped it with duck tape as I could not find the proper replacement on internet. Need to go to dealer to look up.
3) You may have to install Cat security plate - see forums on how cats are being stolen.
4) Tire pressure light won't go away no matter what - this happened on year 7 of operation. Sometimes when all 4 inflated precisely to spec - it does go away, but even the slightest variation sets it back. Annoying a bit but just check your wheels visually, which is what everyone needs to do anyhow.
5) winter tires will make you feel everything
6)All front light bulbs, including main light bulbs (H11s) serve about 3-4 years then need replacement. Passenger side one is tricky - need small hands. Better to replace with something more dependable - I replaced all smaller ones with leds.
7) even if you're a good driver, people will cut you off because of their prius driver perception.
+Igor L Thanks for the feedback!
your tpms sensors need replacement. Besides that you are unlucky with the lights. I've only replaced the main beams twice and nothing else at 200k at 12 years now.
I have the 2012 prius. Drove 200.000 km with it. Luckily I didn’t had any of that problem. And i’m planning to keep it for 50.000 km more. Good tip with the led plate lights
Toyota Prius is by far the best I've ever had .....185 k miles and it just keep going ......
A few pieces of advice about the 2010 and 2011 Prius: 1) Install a clip on battery fan filter, available at the dealer. FIRST, clean the battery fan! I did mine yesterday at 103K. It was not clogged, but had sticky grime on the fins. Keeping this fan clean will prolong the life of your high voltage battery by keeping it cool! 2) Change the 12-Volt battery every five years or sooner if the lights dim a lot when you turn off the car. A weak 12-Volt battery causes all sorts of issues with the Prius electrical system, and it's a real pain if it dies when you are on the road. 3) Change oil every 5000 miles if you expect to keep the car for 200,000 miles or more. Our 2009 still purrs at 201,000! 4) Read The *Fine* Manual! These cars are amazing, and you should know why, and how to keep them that way.
Most reliable car ever. But… I was constantly replacing headlight bulbs. Until I switched to LeD on my third gen. It has 183k miles on it now. Still running strong. Have only replaced the O2 sensor and brakes so far. Best car I’ve ever owned. Will buy a Prius prime next
Toyota is aware of bad headlight harnesses.
I have a 2015 Prius with 205,000 miles . Extremely reliable car all i do is oil changes & buy tires & gas . Strangely i have replaced alot of headlight bulbs & some marker bulbs but thats it . At 150,000 i replaced front break pads myself by watching a video by this channel . At 205,000k & 8.5 yrs old im getting warning that hybrid battery cooling system is low . Dealer mechanic told me theres a filter at back seat that filters the air going to battery cooling fan . I popped off the cover & it was caked with dog hair & filth . I scraped off a fistful of hair & vacuumed the rest . Now when driving i can faintly hear the suction of fan working . (Sounds good) Hopefully its fixed & just need to reset the warning on dash . I was supposed to have 1 gallon of battery coolant & plastic mesh filter changed every 100,000 at dealer for $500 which is highly overpriced . Now i should flush both engine coolant & hybrid battery coolants with new coolant .
I’m from uk London and I have a 2012 Toyota Prius and you are very correct mate I have had the EGR Valve issue and my Mecanic recommended changing water pump you forget to mention the back seat filter gets clogged up you need to remove this and clean it it’s for the hybrid battery
Good catch! That filter is crucial to the hybrid battery life.
There’s a filter on the car care nut for that hybrid battery that makes life easier 😊
I have a 2012 Prius with 265,000, still running on the original hybrid battery. Recently however, the following failed;
- Water pump and head gasket $3,000 to repair.
- Brake master cylinder and brake actuator
$2,800 to repair
Dude top 5 is plate light bulbs. You guys are the best. I'm sold.
2007 Toyota Prius 290,000 plus and still running strong. Just need to adjust my brakes.
yeah I had one of those and regret that I got rid of it without any issues and driving my 2011 with failed brake booster assembly
My 2007 currently at 317,000! WooHoo!
@@igorb81 Woo-hoo! With 2010!
Have you had to replace your brakes? I was told they don't have to be replaced as often as normal cars but I don't know why they'd be different.
@@StevenPenny Fronts surely need to replaced two or more times . But the rears might never need to. I had the 2005 Prius which ran 14 years with the original set of brakes. Finally I decided to replace them just for the sake of it but found out they were still not completely worn out.
Also the low beam headlights go out every few months due to the headlight harness having too much voltage. It was a Toyota extended coverage for a bit but I missed it- now have to live with replacing headlights.
Keeps happening to mine too !
Plate light bulb not HEAD gasket!?!
I have a 2013 Prius…it’s the most reliable car I have ever owned!
+Patrick Fears Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
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I just purchased the 2010 Toyota Prius 4 with the solar panel package a couple of weeks ago. 171k miles strong and thankfully no issues mentioned in this video. However I had to to replace some headlights after they went out at the same time, which was an easy fix, but tedious to get to. I even took it to my local Toyota dealer for recalls. Batteries are still good. My only concern is the braking system. The brakes still function, but I'll have it looked over soon just to be safe. Other than that I really like my car and it gets me from point A to B without any problems.
Brakes on Prius models last a long long time if driven gentle because regenerative braking while letting off gas & light foot on brake pedal spin up the motor generator which slows the vehicle down without engaging the brake pad rotor friction brakes // the regen also charges the HV battery with energy that can help assist the engine at moving the Prius when accelerating or driving steady state //
I will add one problem. When my 2013 Prius battery died, tow truck driver could not put the Prius in neutral to pull it up the tow truck ramp. He had to call a 2nd truck to actually lift the car up on a wheel ramp. So the problem is, if the Prius electric system is dead, the Prius will not shift into neutral.
My 2013 Prius battery just up and died yesterday in the parking lot at 85,000 miles.
Love my 2012 Prius 170,000 miles, same brake pads that were new in 2012! Rarely use my brakes. Cruise control and I capture the energy with the Cruise control lever, regenerative braking.
Best car i ever bought. Most reliable, low repair cost and real good resale value. Will be buying a 2024 prius again because they are japan manufactured 👍
2012 Toyota Prius plug-in with 125,000 miles. I haven’t had any of those problems thank goodness.
I have 2014 prius, he is right about light bulb and headlight problems I replaced all the bulbs with LED bulbs no more problem, and yes I did replace the water pump once but now it's good
Which LED bulbs or does it not matter?
I got my 2012 Prius deluxe model in 2016 from a one owner with Toyota service history. Five years on the only thing I have had to replace was the coolent system for the hybrid motor, at a cost of €700. An ordinary combustion engine would cost €400 but that's the only thing other than the basic €300 annual service from a main Toyota service dealer on the Nangor road. Over 300,000 km on clock and not a bother . Will most likely replace this 3rd gen model for the 4th and improved model. Reliability is addictive!
+Martin McDonald Thanks for the feedback!
Today is November 2024. I bought my 3rd Gen Prius December 2015 and I have never encountered any of these issues. But they mentioned in problem #5 about plate lights and I've never had any issues since I replaced them lights on the very first day I bought it so there's that. 😂 113k miles and still going strong.
Hybrid 3rd Generation Prius 2013 at 247,000 miles head gasket went bad. The only problem I have every had in ten years of ownership. Had Gasket Masters replace it. I hope to get another 200,000 miles.
Problem 6: cylinder head gaskets due to thermal compression (start stop engine).
Yep. I maintained my 2015 to a T from 30k to 154k by the time cyl 1 had a leak. I assume it’s going to be an issue again in another 150k
Problem 7: High oil consumption
@@MouseyBusiness Yup. Can't believe this wasn't in the video. Pretty poor research.
2014 Prius owner - had to replace head gasket 145k miles
Thanks for getting to the point!!!
They burn oil too. You really need to install an oil catch can due to the postion of the PCV valve. Which causes oil to get thrown into the EGR cooler assembly, which in turn is why those EGR coolers get clogged up with carbon deposits.
+David Wood Thanks for the feedback!
Some burn oil. I had a 2010 Prius that apparently became magnetized: it was sideswiped by a guy who didn't look before darting out of his lane, hit in the driver door by a deer, and finished off when a young lady who thought it was okay to drive with uncontrolled seizures smashed the passenger side - all in a six month span. It never used measurable oil between changes, and neither does our 2014.
I suspect oil change interval affects it: the maintenance and warranty booklet specifies 10K mile changes, while the reminder light is 5K mile intervals. The Toyota Master Tech at The Car Care Nut highly recommends the 5K mile interval.
Oil catch can is another gimmick that people that doesn’t work. No one has been able to show a proof before and after, except can fool of stuff that proves nothing except causes low vacuum due extra hoses.
I have a 2012 Prius hatchback with 142,000 miles and I’ve never had a problem with it burning oil or low oil levels. I do get it serviced faithfully and go by the manufactures suggestions. Maybe that has helped. 🤷🏻♂️ Weird how this is a problem for some and not others.
What about the abs module?
You forgot to mention blown head gaskets. Just happened to my 2010 Prius with only 170k miles. I pampered that car too. 😢
:( Oh no! I have been seeing that lately. I am researching these to buy as a second car for my teen daughter. I hear how reliable they are.
Must be unlucky, many have gone passed 200,000 to 250,000 with no blown head gasket
did you drive it stop and go traffic a lot? I hear that is the reason why, but I do not know, I'm just curious to hear what you say
I started getting a problem with cylinder # 2. I put in a 1/2 bottle of Bar's head gasket sealer and drove about 40k miles before the hybrid system went bad. 2011 prius with 200k miles at failure.
I have a 2010 Prius 175k with none problems.
Congrats? I have a 2010 with all of these problems and more at $135k on the odo.
Thank you for this video! Much appreciated.
I cannot Thank you enough. You guys are great
ABOUT to buy a "13 V5 with 90k miles. well cared for .going to do the trans service + inverter coolant ASAP
My water pump went out at about 220k miles. I replaced it myself. Some bolts were tough to get to but doable with the right tools. Need to drain and replace coolant as well. I was gonna replace the thermostat but didn’t have the right tool to reach a certain bolt.
This may also apply to 2016-2017 Prius v; essentially a Gen.3
thanks for the video!
Had to replace Brake Master Cylinder and Booster Assembly on 2010 . Cost $2,000! Toyota won't recall. I'd say that's pretty major.
Same problem, got a quote 300 less. It was under recall till a specific mileage/years of life. I had another problem in the past that was a recall, but unless you do your research and present them the information they will try to stick you. Luckily, I have an honest and trustworthy Toyota dealership here. Others will treat you as bait and lure you in! DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE BRINGING YOUR CAR TO A MECHANIC/DEALERSHIP!
I have a 2010 and I find that if you change the oil at 5000 miles you will not have a head gasket problem. The low beams are an issue went to LEDS and had one burn out after 4 years. I changed plugs and the EGR and EGR cooler at 200,000 plus the intake cleaning which was a waste of money, seems like if you put highway miles on them you do not get that problem. Changed the PVC valve when i had the intake off and the water pump at the 200,000 mark preventive measurements you might say. I find that the wheel bearings are another issue third set on the back second on the front. 46 oil changes 7 air filters 4 set of tires 2 speed sensors on the rear, that throws the braking system in to a frinzy LOL. I also have a 2015 with 28,000 mile and it did the same thing wheel sensors 100 bucks 1 hour to put them in. The starter battery is coming up about 7 years if your lucky, pushing 6 on it now another good time when that goes. But the car has never let me down and I do 325 miles one way and another 325 back to the work area. All in all easy to work on if you have some skills and when you get to know the cars quirks its all good
2011 Prius- just changed the plate bulbs to LED’s. Unfortunately, nav screen went out years ago and it’s too expensive to replace. I’ve heard nav screens on this generation go out a lot
My husband and I just bought a 2010 Prius with 169K miles on it for $3,000 (because the original owner didn’t want to pay to get the hybrid battery replaced), but overall, everything mostly works ! The car still drives well, everything functions, vehicle body has minor dings, all lights and electronics work, and we just had the interior steam cleaned so it’s like brand new again ✨ We just ordered a hybrid battery replacement from Rock Auto for $2,600+ and the dealership will charge us $500 for the install. Overall, we will have paid
+Jackie's Simple Visuals Thanks for the feedback!
Over 130k still no problems. Thanks for info
I used to have that model no problems mentioned. It was reliable as the best car available
Does this video encompass the Prius V of the same years as well?
They have the same engine so I don’t see why not.
egr valve yes, the other problems mentioned? never heard of them, i have a fleet of 8 of these cars which i rent out, they have from 90k miles to 350k miles, the hybrid battery will go every 150k (£500, $720 job) other than that the most reliable car ever produced!! (even more than the mk4 prius)
Indeed!
I have a small fleet of gen 3s too that I rent and all of mind burn oil. Is your fleet burning oil?
Charge your 12v battery once a year with 12v 2amp charger for 8hrs.
I have a 2015. Most reliable car I've ever owned in my life. That and a 1995 nissan pathfinder were the only cars that ran forever
Good points, since buying one of the so-called ‘problem’ 2010 vehicles, I’ve found there is a serial number after which the much-mentioned ‘oil burning’ was corrected. Mine’s after that serial number but I didn’t know anything about this until I read on Prius Chat about the serial number cut-off point. The bulbs is a great point - many, many car bulbs of the conventional filament type, that are small, burn the plastic something rotten, I guess mainly in summer use in daylight hours. Once you fit LEDs, you are more able to confidently use the lights in daytime temperatures. Maybe in the middle of the desert it’s irrelevant, but in ‘tree tunnels’ or deeply shaded ‘skyscraper corridors’ the daylight use of lights isn’t a half bad idea. From headlamp bulb investigations, it seems the thermal issues are actually quite finely-calculated, and manufacturers not using daylight running lights, may expressly have created the lamps for night-time (cooler) driving conditions, hence they pop a lot if you drive in daylight with them on.
The number plate bulbs are the worst offenders though, and only a compact LED will fit, here’s my tip: ONLY buy LEDs where the vendor stipulates a Lumens number! Don’t let them fool you with the high ‘whiteness’ numbers like 6,000, it’s nothing to do with how much light is given out…you are looking for 430Lm (Lumens of brightness) and so on, a really bright small bulb reaches up to 800Lm. My little front lobby at home has domestic type bulbs of 270Lm, but there’s three of them and it’s only 6 foot square. My best tip is I now realise people with overly-bright number plate bulbs are not in fact idiots - I am, for not realising it’s because there are regulations limiting reversing lamp power…so people fit high brightness LEDs to the rear number plate bulb sockets, because that adds considerably to rear visibility when night-time parking, especially with a camera-dependent system for reversing assistance. Toyota use that a lot, and I don;t mind it, but probably would rather have beepers - indeed many fit body-coloured beepers from the aftermarket, and this I oughtta do. Thanks again for the vid.
[Edit: there’s one more thing I have a theory about the piston-ring issues. Bearing in mind many people don’t run Prius vehicles hard, apart from me I think !, it is possible, that these earlier ‘problem’ piston-ring Prius cars have not really bee run-in properly, even if several years old. My theory is, the small ridge that forms at the edge of the piston-ring stroke, is just a fraction lower in vehicles that have never been run hard at maximum throttle. Then, one day, maybe 30,000 miles in, or 3 years on, the owner or a new owner, does one hard run on the freeway/motorway…this, causes a sudden breakage as at some point the tiny, minuscule wear-ridge gets hit by the piston ring at high rpm (5,000rpm or so on a Prius). I had a motorcycle with this wear-ridge issue because despite being 9 years old when I bought it, nobody had resolved a mixture issue, I did with a different carb jet eventually. So the bike had never been run at high rpm cos you could not make it go there! Mixture fixed, I found it went great, but there was a slight audible ‘tinkling’ sound when I really opened it up (9,500 rpm, valves bouncing). The more I opened it up, the less the tinkling sound happened. Eventually, it has disappeared, took about 1,500 miles or so of occasional thrashing? Because I read about this issue, I knew to open it up gradually. This, I believe is the issue or perhaps the easiest way to’fix’ the ‘weak-ring’ 2010 Prius cars, but this is also a high-risk way to do it, they might break a ring anyway, as that wear-ridge is not as minuscule after say 70,000 miles, as my bike one was after 5,000 miles. But, I have made sure I thrashed my Prius occasionally anyway. All vehicles are like this, and it’s worse nowadays with all the pollution gubbins fitted - they really do need a good blast now and again to get rid of accumulated soot and so on. Anyway, take care all, you do what you feel is best in your situation - my stuff works for me, might not work for you, don’t risk your prized possession on my experience alone.]
I have been using this same car for the last 14 years and haven't faced any issues like this.
Multifunction display broke on my old one. $60 gauge cluster on amazon helps
Great video straight to the points
2005 prius 250k running strong.replace blower motor and rear spring strut 12v battery that's all
You failed to mention the head gaskets blow on these! Like a lot!!
The headlights also.
Yep. Mine leaked. Gasket sealer fixed it. Fingers crossed 🤞
Usually 2010 model.....easy later fixed.
Replace the water pump if yours hasn’t blown, and the head gasket won’t be an issue.
@@rosaliecross3238 mine lasted a year before it went out again. It depends on luck for this one
Those problem are very minor.
I have a 2010 with 300k miles. Original everything.
Ignoring a bad water pump is not minor. Mine went bad so I replaced it immediately. EGR system cleanout also gives a big improvement.
@@Ass_Burgers_Syndrome At what mileage did yours go out? I’m looking to buy a 2010 Toyota Prius with 60,000 miles.
@@andrew7650 mine went out around 200k miles. super easy to replace honestly
Yep, I had my water pump replaced at 200,000 miles and a EGR replacement. You forgot to mentioned the EKG test.
Sorry what is the EKG test as I have a 2012 Prius I have change the EGR valve along with Water pump
#1 problem is blown head gasket around 200k mile. #2 ct200h engine is burning alot of oil, that is why egr and intake manifold are always clog up.
Yea, according the the forums, it seems oil burn leads to EGR clog which leads to head gasket failure. They recommend an oil catch can and EGR service. The EGR service is not easy to do. The 2012 and newer don’t seem to have the oil burn issues nearly as often.
@@mylesgray3470 and being where they put the PCV valve so low on the engine instead of on the valve cover maybe one reason also
@@mylesgray3470 I think they changed the design from 2012 didn't they? EGR cleanout is a pain but I did mine bit by bit over a few days so I didn't get frustrated with it.
Why does my 2013 with over 190,000 miles have no mechanical problems including the defective EGR valve and system?
So THAT'S why that damn license plate bulb keeps burning out !!! Thanks !!!
+Kristen Dancer Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
oh yeah, same here 😃
My Toyota pruis 2010 option 3 can use smart key to access unlock all door ?
Hello, good Video! I must say ...... in comparison with Volkswagen or Audi, Mercedes or BMW etc. this 5 Points make me lough! Greets!
+UpHillEdd Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
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Number one and most important one, brake actuator and or brake accumulator.
Hi sir I got 2012 Toyota Prius every 3 to 4 day check engine light on 4 orange color light on what should I do can you please 🙏 help???
He didn't even mentioned head gasket, the egr issue is the direct effect of that
If I'm not mistaken, the egr and water pump issues are what cause blown head gaskets in Gen 3 Priuses
@@wrozay yeah mainly water pump more than EGR. I don't have any issues with either one yet at 131k but will replace water pump
@@wrozay Yep, a problem I am going through right now. While it still drives ok, the coolant level drops slowly over a few days with no external leaks evident, so there's only one place it's going so it's just a matter of time (I'm hardly driving it now though)
I recently changed the fuel pump, thermostat, cleaned out the air intake and whole EGR system. It actually helped somewhat but after a few weeks I was getting the occasional shuddery engine issues again. 2010 w/ 268k miles. Sucks because other than that the car is great. I'm not confident enough to try a head gasket job so I dunno, might have to offload it :(
Best prius
@@igorb81 very good idea.
I like this series !
2015 prius with 136k miles....only repair is water pump and air flow sensor.....best car ever!!
#4 there are two water pumps. One for the inverter coolant as well
+Rob Beedle Thanks for the feedback!
The inverter cooling pump was a big problem on the second gen Prius (2004-2009). There was a recall for it for the 2004-2007.
Hey Boss I ve Toyota Prius plus 2016 reg showing me “p lock malfunction “do you have any idea what it could be ,coz I v
Been to many mechanic and electricians but no one find out
I
rate this 6***
out of a possible five-star!
+Leland Thomoson III Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
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Is there a video for problems with the 2nd generation?
Can you make a video comparing all generations?
Thanks, I have a 2015 model 3 Prius 5 door. So far I have 130,000 miles and no problems about half mileage is freeway driving.
The dealer suggested changing the inverter coolant and at 115,000 miles they did the engine coolant, you would have thought they would have done both at the same time ? Plus they said I needed a Service Throttle Body procedure done ? Is this really needed ? Could you do a video on this ? I live in So California.
I subscribed to your channel and hoping to see more videos on the 2015 Prius, thanks Joey
The TB clean is a good idea. The engine has a 13:1 mechanical compression ratio, tamed by Miller valve timing. That means it burps soot into the intake. A dirty throttle body often shows up as the same sort of soft rattle at "idle" that you get with worn out spark plugs: the planetary gearset rattles if power delivery is light and unsteady.
What about the cylinder ring recall? I heard its under warranty to replace if your car is under 60k miles.
soo my 2011 has had water pump go out, bad headlight harness, head gasket on it's way out, navigation out at 120K and at about 120 had the brake accuator pump replaced which I later learned is a computer issues since it makes the same noise off and on for 3 years. However after letter to Toyota I got a check in the mail for the brake repair. I will never ever trust a Toyota dealership again, at least in Mesa.
Forgot the most important. Brake booster and actuator assembly to the tune of $1400 bucks for parts. About $3000 with labor at the dealer. A special “campaign” is in effect if you qualify 150k or 10 years from in service date.
My 13 was out of warranty and I went used and had to do the job all over again. New parts and follow the bleed procedure to the letter. A pain in the ass, but not super hard.
TOP1: Head Gaskets. Now i have second engine in my 2013 Prius 150k mil...
Would you recommend Prius for door dash? Or a Corolla and a camry?
what happen when engine tuning but no defrost causes foggy and no air condition working my prius v 2014..?
#5 is common with all hot-tungsten lightbulbs. Replace all your lightbulbs with LED ASAP.
Tip on buying used. Always buy the last year model of any generation if possible. Most the the issues have been worked out.
Hi i have a 3gen toyota prius 2013 my question is if can be charged the high beam halogen with led thanks
Yes
Got mine on amazon. They work great, much better than stock.
I have 2015 and the only issue so far is the license plate bulb.....
2010 3rd gen 300.000km HUD not working, the buttons iluminate when i press but nothing appears on the glass, any solution please?
Also a warnirg for others, water pump worked normally no chek engine, but the fan inside was destroyed , water not circulating, thank God i had external temp meter and i prevented the damage .
What led upgrade kit would you recommend off Amazon
Hi i have a 3 generation prius 2013 i have check headlight system error how to fix?
My 2014 makes these short squeaking noises. not squealing but squeaking. it lasts less than a second but just randomly happens with no pattern. it's coming from under the hood but no idea what it is.
We have also seen the coolant heat exchangers leak in the exhaust and lose coolant. You can loop The lines if you live in a warm climate and don’t need heat
I had to get my entire fule pump and liners replaces at 200k miles on my 2014. That really sucked $$$ but it's running good again.
I do average 100 miles a day and have left the car running overnight a few times when traveling
Thanks for the video.
Does anyone know if the dealer will charge you to recalibrate the fuel gauge?
I had a problem with my Prius fuel gage and the dealership didn't charge to recalibrate it. That being said I also brought my car in for other maintains, so maybe if you just had them recalibrate it they would charge.
Dealer will nickel and dime you for every little thing.
There's a "dealer fee" for the air you breath at the lot.
why aren't any videos of how to change Prius 2011 timing belt?
Thank you for the useful information to look out for //
Gen 3 Prius was a bit of a flub. If you’re you’re thinking of purchasing one after this video you should be made aware of a couple things.
The first 4 years of this generation were fitted with a new style low tension ring set on the pistons. Toyota was trying to squeeze out as much MPG as possible by reducing friction. This led to major oil consumption in vehicles that were pushed too many miles/KMs between oil changes. There is a TSB from Toyota on this.
Next…
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation(EGR) system was a new design. It has a very small cooler, combined with a valve(he points this out in the video) which plugs with carbon over time.
The carbon that gets past the cooler and valve mixes with copious amounts of oil condensate(from a poorly designed PCV setup) at the top of the air intake manifold and forms a sludge. This slowly blocks the 4 EGR ports over time. Because the EGR gas enters the manifold from the side, the first ports clog up which leaves cylinder 1 & 2 to get extra EGR inputs.
This increased exhaust leads to highest combustion pressure in cylinder 1. Which leads to the biggest issue with gen 3 Prius, they blow head gaskets at cylinder 1. Do an internet search, you’ll see.
If you’re going to buy a gen 3, have a mechanic test for a blown head gasket first. If it’s not blown and you buy it, immediately have the EGR serviced(an oil catch can to reduced the amount of PCV oil getting into the combustion chambers isn’t a bad idea too). It’s not hard to do yourself and there are tons of videos tutorials.
Because you don’t want to find yourself soon browsing hundreds of videos detailing how to repair your blown head gasket.
Cheers!
I have a 2015 prius w/82k on it. Does anyone know if the 2015 have different pistons and rings to prevent oil burning when it reaches high miles?
The piston rings and head gaskets were updated in 2012 and seem to have a lot less issues. That’s why I bought a 2013. I’m at 107k and no noticeable oil burn, even after 7,500 miles when it’s time to change the oil.
@@mylesgray3470 Not bad, do you happen to know when it’s recommended on changing the water and thermostat on a 2015 prius?
Have 2015 Prius 180000 mileage still running like brand new 😊
Just bought a 2012 Prius and it’s making a clunking sound over bumps, sounds like it’s coming from the driver steering shaft. Help.
My son has a 2015 prius and it's been making a clicking noise just recently, does anyone know what's going on with it.
For 3rd gen Prius try to avoid 2010-2011 models, those seem to be most problematic, (as is with any first year models of any generation) they are more prone to oil consumption and head gasket failure most importantly. Subtle revisions on the 2012-2015 (EGR and intake manifold designs) models made these issues less common and in general more reliable. For reference my 2012 consumes exactly 1.76 quarts of oil for every 10,000 miles, this is a negligible amount compared to many 2010-2011 models. It is paramount when first buying a 3rd gen to open up the EGR, Intake Manifold, and PCV system and do a proper cleaning. After a proper cleaning run a Oil catch can from the PCV system to prevent the EGR system from clogging up the lines once again and leading to other major issues like a failed head gasket. As mentioned in other comments here, the PCV system was placed far to low on the engine (first time Toyota introduced EGR and PCV combination on Prius, 1st and 2nd gen did not suffer same issues) causing aforementioned clogging issues so it is imperative you run a catch can.
Besides the major emissions components issue they are fairly bullet proof end very reliable. I have put 50k miles on mine (bought at 94k now currently has 144k) and have done nothing to it besides what I have mentioned above and regular service (filters, fluids, spark plugs, etc.) and it still has the original Hybrid battery too.
The gauge cluster and fuel gauge issue don't seem to be that common of an issue, perhaps more common on the 2010-2011 models. I have never heard of the rear license plate issue but I have also changed out all my bulbs with LED bulbs and the original owner of my vehicle whom I bought the Prius was already using LED bulbs for the rear plate.
Sorry I'm new to all this bUT what is a 3rd generation Prius :/?
3rd gen is 2010-2015 year. However the issues seem to be more common with the 2010-2011 year and seem to be less common from 2012-2015. Preventative maintenance is key to avoiding bigger issues as mention by this original comment.
Forgot the biggest one, head gaskets are basically a consumable.
Which Gen or Year prius is best to buy?
Rough starts were getting worse, so dealer said it was the Head gasket, and quoted a ridiculous $6400.00 to fix, then an outside Prius mechanic quoted $4200.00? we're in our 70s & have No Saving, and live on SSI, so i learned about Blue Devil, and for $80.00 we fixed the problem for 2-Wonderful Years, but it eventually came back, and i tried the Blue Devil again, and No Go, i began experiencing (Red Overheating Light) @56-70Mph, and in most cases turns off soon after, but the Overflow eventually empties out also, so i received Covid-19 Stimulus Money, and replaced Heat Sensor, Thermostat, Water-pump, and Radiator(All factory parts) but Didn't stop the overheat Light turning on @65-70mph, i also replaced the Coolant many times since i replaced all parts, but Light still turns on, so Gasket Masters dropped a Rebuilt Motor in, and it works great, but Red Light still comes on@65-70mph, and No Heat comes out of the heater, even though everything appears to work perfect, Is the (Blend Door Actuator) stuck? ...or is the heater core plugged up? should i replace the Heater Core and Sensor? either way i cannot take the car on any long trip, but never overheats around town? Am i doomed to never leave my neighborhood, or am i missing something? (((Please Help)))
should have mention head gasket. if your engine starts shaking really bad when you first start it could be leaking coolant in the cylinder causing the spark plug not to fire. my 2010 prius head gasket started leaking at around 150,000 miles. toyota dealership charges over 4,000 dollars to replace.head gasket. another shop specialize in prius charges 4,000 for a rebuilt engine from Japan. I took the cheap way buying Bars Head Gasket Sealer with the fibers for 50.00. after a year it still holding up.