Lithium Ion battery Ep.3 replacing cells on batteries 3 & 4
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 тра 2018
- After completing the damaged cells on Battery 1 there were sufficient 'good' cells left from the donor battery 2 to replace the damaged cells in the last 2 batteries.
This video covers the replacement of these damaged cells & a quick voltage check & test on the Makita battery charger.
Also covered in the video is the sourcing of new circuit boards.
The next Episode will cover the instillation of the new circuit boards followed, of course by yet another check to see if the battery packs will, in fact, finally be accepted for charge on te Makita charger!
Andy Mechanic - Авто та транспорт
Hi Andy. One thing to check is that all the cells in a battery are at close to the same voltage. If they are too different, then the charge controller decides that the the battery is too far out of balance and won't allow the battery to charge. The cell voltages on the ones you replaced looked ~OK, but I'm not sure how close the replacements were. This might mean you have to individually charge each cell in the battery to a fixed voltage for a few hours (using a current limited power supply). Can take a while to sort out if you only have one power supply.
The other trap is that once tripped, some controller boards will prevent future charging. Sometimes they can be reset using the correct cable/software/passwords etc. Sometimes not. I don't know if Makita uses this scheme or not, but if they do, then the best approach is a new pcb - which you now have on order anyway.
Soldering directly onto the cell case is "not recommended", but I find you can usually get away with it if you are quick. The sensitive end is the one with the tit - normally (not always !!!) positive. This is because the vent and fuse are at this end and are most susceptible to heat. If the vent seals itself, then there is more chance of an exciting failure at some stage. Heating the bare case end isn't as big a problem unless the temperature gets enough to increase the internal pressure & even then the safety vent at the other end should operate.
If you want to check voltage of each cell use that yellow socket and pay close attention to thermals as in Parallel cell packs use double contacts in o e slot
I was on the edge of my seat waiting for it to go 💥
If you disconnect the power from the circuit board it Sometimes reset the board so it can be used again
Good evening, from Portugal. Battery bms may be fine. I saw the following test on youtube videos and it may work. Disconnect all 6 wires from the bms and reconnect them in the following sequence:
1-Negative
2-4.2V
3-8.4V
4-12V
5-16V
Finally the positive.
Good luck with the batteries.
Good stuff here.
I seldom have to replace the control board-usually just use tested Viable 18650s
culled from used notebook batteries-usually few really bad-others weak but useable
using FLUX on ends to minimise heat required-then usually OK
BUT some "dead" 18650s have INTERNAL fusing so COULD arc badly IF
you short the positive CENTER tab AGAINST STEEL outer NEGATIVE shell
This is all informative, not trying to put down anything that you're doing.
You were shorting one battery to the other. Underneath the green heat shrink is the battery cathode or negative terminal. It isn't limited to just the end of the battery. You may have had a bit too much heat with that iron too? As previously mention, a little flux may help you with the oxidized metals. One probably doesn't need the solder on top of the nickel plate. As far as jumping the gun, you could easily take the voltage reading before putting things together. This would prevent you from having to take back apart if it wasn't reading correctly or as anticipated. Are the contacts clean on your charger? Best of luck, sir.
Cheers Cory, thanks for the info. There is a lot to consider with these cells and I'm picking it up as this Series plays out....yes, the charger is fine as it charges the new battery packs fine.
Thanks for your input. Andy
Andy, any news on Sarah's GSXR750? Last update I saw was the video on May 11th. Have I missed something?
Yes! Video should be up in a week or two.... definitely still ongoing :-)
You used to use a balance charger to make sure all the cells were the same voltage but well I am sure Makita don't care because they sell more batteries this way? I find it Funny where the rare sighting of a "Nipple" can cause so much concern! like especially in Australia where they are happy for video games to show a head being severed with spouts of blood but ban a game because a Nipple popped up somewhere on a character...the logic is beyond me thank god for the French :)
should use a small spot welder easy to make one
Hi really great informative video... the tension suspence will it won't it explode .. if it did you wouldn't have to shave any more just kidding keep up the great videos 🤕
The Metal is Nickel that's spot welded to the batteries, there are suppliers you can buy the metal from and there are videos showing you how to spot weld them.
I just want to mention that these 18650 lithium Ion batteries should not be discharged below 3.0 volts. I am sure this is open to discussion but for safety sake Do a search for "battery Mooch". You will find lots of battery information that i am sure you will find informative. It would also be wise to be sure that each cell is the same. I know for certain that sony makes several cells that look very much alike (green 18650) that have different capacities and maximum discharge rates. Not sure if Makita used the same cell from year to year.
Awesome. Will check it out. Thanks for the info, most helpful. Cheers Andy
For sure. The Mooch has a website, a facebook page and a youtube channel. I know that his content is geared toward the vaping industry but he does all his own independent testing of the kind of cells you are playing with and i'm sure you will learn lots about battery safety and the like.
bring back tool girl Harley
biker I agree
I was waiting and watched all of these repairs to see just how long it would take you to figure out the circuit board is what killed the cell. If you checked the boards you would find the fault was in the circuit board in line with the bad cell.
1．5ahのサイクル寿命の過ぎたセルを移植しても、容量0．9ahのごみパック作って意味無い❗作るなら、新品セルで、スポット溶接して欲しい❗😁直ぐ壊れる物作って❗goodは無い❗リペア後の使用回数や耐久性を知りたい❗😁爆発🔥😭💣バッテリーパックご苦労様🎵😁
Jst buy a new battery!
These batteries are not gonna work! Why do you think, in the others they were bridged in 2 rows? They are 1,5 volts each, but the ones, that are in one row only, are 3 volts each! You need new 3 vot cells for these ones, not new circuit boards for now!!!!
Hi, thanks for the feedback but on this occasion you are incorrect. On the larger 3 amp hour batteries each pair is wired in parallel - therefore the voltage does not increase. These pairs are then all wired in series to provide the 18 volts total output. Hope this helps. Cheers Andy
Andy Mechanic well... it seems very weird, that there are mising the the exact 1,5 volts. Yes i might be wrong, but i would check the voltage of the individual cells! My opinion, no offence! 👌
Igors Dubrovskis lithium ion 18650’s are 3.7 volt nominal. Not 1.5 volt, if they were as low as 1.5 volt per cell then they would be ready for the bin.