Climbing the Iconic North Face of Eiger
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2024
- What does it take to summit the North Face of Eiger? Hear one mountain guide’s story of climbing the famous 1938 Heckmair Route.
Climbing the North Face of Eiger is on every alpinist’s bucket list. Nearly twice as tall as Yosemite’s El Cap, Eiger towers over the town of Grindelwald, Switzerland. Eiger's iconic reputation is well-earned, having challenged even the most seasoned alpinists. While other classic peaks of the Alps were being conquered, Nordwand was the last great peak of the range to be scaled. It wasn’t until 1938 that the North Face - also known as the Death Wall - of Eiger was first ascended.
With worn out gear from the 50s still in place, climbers will find themselves battling fickle weather, lots of rock-fall, ice, snow, and ever-changing conditions in sketchy alpine terrain to reach the top. Completing this climb is a serious and demanding endeavour that takes technical knowledge and intense preparation even by today’s modern standards, more than 80 years after the first ascent. But, with the right training and planning, you too, can climb Eiger.
IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Jeff Witt ticked the famous 1938 Heckmair Route off his bucket list in 2010, calling it “one of his greatest alpine feats.” Join Jeff as he recounts his story, shares photos, and goes into detail about what it takes to prepare and execute a climb of this magnitude.
In this 57hours Adventure Talk, find out what it takes to summit this classic challenging alpine route from a mountain guide who did just that. And, how you can execute your own climb of this magnitude.
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Crazy.........seriously crazy..... .and then there's"the north face"❤I'd wait until the mountain was worn away before I finished my coffee
Being safe, documenting and enjoying the climb, and taking in the views with a competent friend sounds like the best way to climb to me.
I would never climb a mountain, but I find the stories fascinating. Thank you for sharing your photos and story!
What a great presentation. It boggles my mind what alpine and wall climbers can accomplish. I cannot even phantom doing any of this but am a binge watcher of all climbing videos.
Did you mean fathom?
fantastic presentation. As a non-climber, just a fit hiker, I'd love to try reaching the summit via your route down. Thank you
The best camera-shared climbing experience I have had watching many many climbing videos. Your photos were great and your narration was informative and easy to listen to. I don't run marathons but I stay in shape other ways however my big climbing prohibitive is heights. If I am standing on a curb that's too high for me. Thanks for sharing.
You should go to South America and hit the jungle and try Ibogaine or ayahuasca and work on your fear of heights
You had a pic of probably every anchor I've been told not to use. You might want to have a talk with Matt lol. Epic climb, thank you for the long form story!
A truly inspiring video, one of the best on UA-cam. I had to watch it in stages.
Thank you for sharing it with us.
Glad you enjoyed it! Jeff's story is truly inspiring.
Great presentation and one of the best visualisations of the route.
Really interesting presentation. Absolutely love this mountain. She demands respect. I love the history of it. Really enjoyed listening to this. Really insightful.
I am speechless. What a great climbing experience and story. Thank you!
Great video! Pretty amazing to find such a detailed presentation of this route :)
Scary! From bottom to top but exciting. What an adventure. Thanks for sharing.
amazing - well done
Glad you enoyed it!
i climbed mt fuji and all was well until 1/4 from the summit when a horrible gale blew over. everyone backed off but i went on. when i got to the ledge over the top the winds were hurricane. i saw a guy holding on to something and he was flapping horizontal like a flag. i hunkered down wondering what to do looking at him and finally went back over and down. the return was like five times as long as going straight up as its a gravel switchback plus dodging rocks flying at me from the storm all the way down. when i finally got back on the train i looked at fujisama with the huge storm still across the top and it was hard to believe i had been there. i got back to tokyo caked in mud and was laid up in bed for two days, my knees a wreck. so yeah even what should be easy climbs can turn on you.
Man those pictures where y'all are in frame and barely noticeable in the background is the friggin cloud bank. This perfect white blanket that you kinda think is snow at first and then realize that's the cloud base. Awesome. Pics.
thanks......glad you dudes are safe
Congrats!
Thanks!
Great watch, thanks for sharing!
Congratulations! I am always a bit skeptical if super difficult climbs like this are documented in a kind of nonchalant way, only to say that this is a super difficult climb that’ll only be mastered by the best mountaineers. Impressive for sure.
Nuts… what an accomplishment cheers
Jeff Witt is one of the many guides that we work with at 57hours. If you want an inspiration or you want to find a certified guide such as Jeff for your next adventure, we got you covered! Feel free to set your filters, pick an area that interests you at 57hours website: bit.ly/3aXipMx
Great to see Jeff and Mat!
Really enjoyed this thanks, awesome to see close up what it's like. One quibble: it wasn't the "Sedlmayr brothers" - it was Max Sedlmayr and Karl Mehringer, in 1935, who died at the Death Bivouac. Thanks. simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eiger_north_face
Got a real feel for the Ogre, even after reading about it my whole life from watching this presentation! thank you!
congratulations on making such a nice job of it!
Thanks, hope you found it informative!
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Outstanding presentation!!
Thanks!
amazing video, really good step by step insight.
Glad you liked it!
Really interesting thank you. I got here by a strange route. I listened to a podcast on BBC sounds by Sir Ranulph Fiennes on fear. During it he mentioned the book The White Spider which I’m half way through just now. I wanted to get the Eiger better into my mind and came to UA-cam and your presentation. As far as climbing, I can’t get upstairs in my house without holding on to my rail but I am no longer perplexed at why you superhumans climb these terrifying mountains and you have my utmost respect.
I find it fascinating that along some of the routes of the highest peaks on Earth, you will find Frozen people that died in route to the top of the world. There's the famous one I think it's called green shoes or green boots on the way to the top of Mount Everest and if the snow is just right you see him laying on his side underneath a rock ledge and it looks like it's just somebody that went to sleep but in reality it's a frozen man that's been there for 50 years or maybe 20 years I can't remember
Jeff, i enjoyed your no BS assessment. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! we love Jeff's approach aas well.
Very nice presentation, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Nice Style...Great Route...Congratulations...Prosit 🇨🇭🇩🇪
Thank you! 😃
Great presentation ! thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Saw a documentary about the team that included the guy with the short rope and not being able to get down and dying. Had to be a horrible way up until the end when he was probably in so much pain from his body turning into ice that he was praying for the end.
Congratulations to these enormous feat. I went skiing there when I still was residing in Switzerland, had a good view of the Eiger when I skied on the lauberhorn looking up at the Eiger north wall .
I bet that was some awesome awesome scenery
@@dickfitswell3437 thanks for asking. The Berner Oberland is where the lauberhorn downhill race takes place, and from the top of the mountain you are surrounded by the Eiger munch and Jungfrau, and you can see the kleine Scheidegg.
fascinating thank you
On the first ascent Heckmair and Vorg had front point crampons, Kasparek had 10 points, and Harrer only nailed boots. The logic for Kasparek and Harrer was that Kasparek would lead the snow and ice pitches and Harrer the rick pitches.
nice video. Thx
This is a great video. You make a difficult climb look easy (I'm a non-climber BTW). By coincidence, I'm actually reading White Spider by Heinrich Harrer. He lists the "Wet Cave Bivouac" in the route description in the Addendums.
Great video!! So many alpine climbers post videos essentially as posers. Its refreshing to see one from an understated team that climbed with a sense of adventure, exploration and enough daring to require constant focus. Cheers.
Max Sedelmayer had a brother, but he was not lost with Max on the Eiger at Death Bivouac. You are referring to his partner Karl Mehringer
There is no way in hell that I would ever attempt climbing a rock never mind a mountain, but this video was just mind blowing to watch. Kudo's to all the brave mountain climbers who do these things but I have to say that I am so very glad that none of my kids grew up wanting to do this.
Hi I did mont blanc couple weeks ago and want to build up to North Face Eigar. I've done grade 3 scrambling UK and indoor rock climbing automatic belay only. What kind of training program would be ideal for being ready for this in one or 2 years? Thanks in advance and thank you for making this video its the most informative I have seen
Catch the train to the top 😊😂😊❤🥰
Hello, if you forget all safety equipments, considering you are very experienced and in good shape, how long would it have taken to you to do the whole face in one go ? I have no idea compared to Ueli’s amazing time. Thank you.
Gut!
love when you can see a mountains shadow 38:58
very good movie - finally someone who enjoys climbing
and don't just run around
Very lucky about weather, snow, that "cave" and ..determination. It's hard to find two or more perfect days in row on that face.
I think is way greater number of climbers which DIED on that route than the ones which reached the summit climbing same route.
CONGRATS Master!!! Beautifull Video And GREAT ADVENTURE!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!
One question please
:
in the difficult crack there are many pitons or there are few protections ( pitons, ect)
She considers the quartz crack to be the most difficult point of the climb, even more difficult than the exit of the ramp (the crux = the waterfall chimney???)
Thank you very much for your answers and congratulations again!!!!
Best wishes.
P.s : My dream would be to do this great climb and great adventure!!!
I've always been puzzled by the story of the North Face. The fact that 1. There's a train in there and 2. Uli ran up it in afew hours make me wonder how it could be so difficult??? Would love your help, anyone.
Hiker but wannabe climber, incredibly informative video!
Two years back, I was in front of this famous mountain. It brought back memories of the tragedy we had read about the heroic effort of survival by Tony Cruz. We visited the memorial in memory of his climbing companions.at the foot of the mountain.
i'm no climber, but doing this in less than 2 days is amazing.
yeah. i know some people made it in less than 3 hours but...
How Ueli Steck climbed this without a rope. ?
1:10 That,s Toni Kurtz with Andreas Hinterstoisser shaking their hands. Not Heckmair and Vorg!
You are right. Hinterstoisser on the left and Kurz Toni.
"With a drop into nothing below you, as straight as a beggar can spit." Kipling
How could Ueli do that in2:22 ?!!?!
Legend.
I don't think so..
Poor explanation of the failed rescue attempt of Toni Kurz.
Climbs the north face of the Eiger and calls himself jack of all trades and master of None. Lol
It l9l9o
This is a deadly cĺimb
Climbing the North Face can definitely be dangerous, especially if you come underprepared. However, having enough knowledge, experience, adequate fitness levels, and a good guide by your side is the best way to minimize risks and maximize your chance of reaching the top :)