Also, you can make a cooler running treatment coil from Litz wire. It's especially made for high frequency magnetics. It's a way to go if you're not particularly thrilled with liquid cooling the treatment coil. However, Litz wire is a specialty wire and isn't cheap.
Cool, I almost killed mine yesterday too, it's scary how much heat the coil put out. Previously I was running from the "brick" power supply I got from recycle it was 20V and 12.5A and coil never got charred. I decided to get power supply with adjustable voltage and digital meter that displays voltage and amperage it actually goes up to 51.7v and 11.3 amps but boy did everything got super hot! You also reminded me that I could heat treat my O-1 parts as well. I got the water pump already, I need to make a different coil and make sure connectors extend past circuit board, don't want water leaking on circuit board.
In your MKII, you should also add a fan to cool the capacitors, inductors, and heatsink... Further additions:- * An ammeter * A large resistor (nichrome wire would onto a former, kept under oil/water), about 3-4 ohms. * Add a "soft start" switch to run power through the resistor first. If the current is "normal", turn on a second switch that shorts out the resistor, thus applying full power. If current is too high, turn off and fix. Nothing should have been damaged by running only at the lower power
great video sir, BUT you should have a 15 amp circuit breaker on the positive line near your on/off switch, this will save your power supply from blowing up. I have this same module only i added 4 extra Capasiters and 2 extra Inducters and soldered them under the circute Board this has stopped the module from Heating up due to prolong use. for water cooling i used a car wipper washer bottle it works perfect with a 9v power supply. you will need to change the coil size to get maximum temp.
I can't believe you didn't see a million other videos, where they used water running through the coil! Also, it's not "induction heaters in general" that need the "kick", rather it's specifically ZVS drivers (what this is) that need it.
+Jethro Jones i have seen lots of videos with water cooling and lots without, so i thought i could get away without (i probably could have with more intermittent use). Thanks for the correction regarding ZVS drivers versus induction heaters.. im learning as I go! Good ideas in your other comment too, ill look at implementing them!
If you leave it out in the atmosphere it will most likely anneal i would recommend using a cooling shower underneath your coil (seperated by non conductive material brass etc) or integrated in the coil (bore holes in a 45 deegre angle and lead water through it) , the intense cooling will stimulate the creation of martensite in your material making it even harder and it will also act as an coolant for your coil.
OK, I know the video is 4 years old but, anyway. Capacitors get hot in these designs and, like semi conductors, need to be cooled. Also the induction coil, so try pumping water through it from a bucket on the floor. Lastly, the power consumed and heat generated will depend on how well the coil couples to the object being heated. If you had a 2 inch internal diameter coil heating a 1.75 inch solid iron bar you might get up to 1000w input. This implies you might want to try smaller diameter loops for smaller objects - you might also want to insulate the coil to avoid "issues".
Looking at the design of your induction heater, I wonder if you were to connect the induction coil to the underside of the PCB using the same standoffs it would reduce the amount of heat from the coil that convects towards the capacitors and avoid them overheating! As mentioned by others, and indeed yourself, cooling the induction coil would be an obvious improvement and cooling the PCB with a fan may also be of benefit, but only if you notice the heatsink getting very hot without one. The alternative would be to connect the induction coil with heavy gauge stranded cable to keep it away from the PCB completely. Good luck and thanks for your video.
I get the impression that the heat that did a lot of the damage was radiated from the coil, rather than any kind of direct transfer or convection, so I think a high temperature sleeve would help a lot. Thanks for watching!
You need a power supply that can deliver at least 20 amps. That's because it's all too easy to load the circuit down to the point where the power supply goes into current limiting, which reduces its output voltage. Once the voltage goes below about 12 volts, the Mosfets don't turn on fully and then they overheat and fail.
@@the.marylander With this circuit, the ONLY way to keep that from happening is to use a power supply that can supply at least 20 amps, or, even better, let's say 30 amps. The board simply takes whatever it needs. In my opinion, you MUST have some sort of amp meter in the DC line to the heater. And, just in case, a voltmeter across the DC power supply as well so you can make CERTAIN that the supply voltage never drops below 12 (or preferably 24 volts at any time. If things are working properly, when you first power it up using the coil that comes with it, the system should draw a half dozen amps or so and the power supply voltage shouldn't drop at all.
If you could PLEASE tell me exactly what kind of power supply I would need to run my 1000w zvs induction board... no one seems to either know, or want to just tell me. Please help
I don’t think you watched many other videos, or read the information from the various people selling this. Or read up on induction heaters. You need to water cool the copper, and you also need to do better cooling of the suppy if you use it any high power. The manufacturer says that, and most of the videos by anyone who has used it without blowing it up have done that. It’s not a toy, it uses high voltages and high current to create very high temperatures.
Fair enough, i could have done more research, and i appreciate the safety warning, though i do think it was a fairly honest depiction of how someone else may be tempted to approach it (and how thats a bad idea :p)
+Bart Van de Velde Thanks! Thick wires and distance probably would work, ive also seen people just use fans, but i think pumps will be my best bet to just get it working!
How do you prevent the board from overdrawing the power supply? I am finding that I can get the board to turn on, but the power supply blows once I put a piece of metal into the coil. Any ideas?
That rig looks like it's not meant for constant duty. Instead of a toggle switch flopping around, try a foot switch. Leave the power supply on, and when you're ready to use it, walk up with your part, step on the switch and heat treat, then walk away. That way, it's only on long enough to heat treat your part and spends the rest of the time cooling down.
Was planing on anealing ballscrews so they can be turned. but i would like to heat treat iso 30 taper toolholders, but i don't know if they are to big for 1000W?
LongrangeSweden i think ballscrews would be fine depending on the type of steel, the tool holders may have to be wrapped in high temperature insulation so they dont lose the heat... u should make a video when u try it!
How can you control the temperature of the heated material? Lower voltage? Lower current? I want to temper something at about 250 Celsius for a longer period of time, not to go as high as 700-800 Celsius. Thanks
I think the correct way to do it would be to change the frequency which you cant really do on this board. Otherwise you could under power it and it just wouldnt be able to keep up with the object cooling. I think id go with a cheap toaster oven for annealing though :p
This is actually not such a bad idea! I already have a speed variator recovered from a old vacuum cleaner, if it's thermostat won't do the job properly. I suppose I can have enough control for what I want.
Because that is not the best way to do it. The coil is a tube (pipe) for a reason. The circuit board doesn't get hot, the coil gets hot and copper conducts heat. DOH
I was thinking of buying a similar kit, my goal is to experiment with heatshrink toolholders for small endmills/holders (1/8 inch or 3.175mm in SK15 toolholders for example) Do you think this kit has enough juice to heat the end of that toolholder for those small endmills?
I don't know if this would be up to it. When I get the new one up and running I'm hoping to try some shrink fit tools, but it would certainly need good cooling in the coils. The next level up is about $400 USD, but I have heard of people using that one for shrink fit tooling. I'll definitely try to come up with an answer on the part 2 of this video!
Thanks for the reply, I haven't seen someone try it on this scale (small scale) and as a DIY project. I think it's pretty cool and would love to experiment with it! For what machine and what size toolholders do you want to try it?
Well I saw someone on instagram make ER16 shrink fit solid collets, so I'd love to try that, but it wouldn't be too hard to just start with a big block of steel with a hole in it and progressively turn it down to see when the heater can expand it enough
Oh that is a way better idea! easier to use on many different machines without extensive modifications. I'll keep an eye on your video's (in case you actually get around to trying it out). If I get to it sooner, I'll let you know!
hmm I think brazing carbide tips would be manageable with this ... of course you'd have to do some work to incorporate cooling. We have a $1500ish induction heater at work and it is quite powerful, but it may be overkill for brazing.
princess auto! awesome, i'm gonna assume that means you're in Canada like me?? Whenever I see someone post a project that I'd like to duplicate, and then they reveal the parts are from harbor freight, a little piece of me dries up and dies.. and makes me wish we had harbor freights here too!
I imagine youd run into power losses with a longer coil. The more coil there is, the more inductance, and the harder it is to reverse the magnetic field quickly
So for the pump it wants a 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) tube, the coils are 1/4", so since the video I got an adapter for 1/4" copper pipe to 3/8"ID pipe (www.mcmaster.com/#51875k52/=1ciztzo + www.mcmaster.com/#44555k133/=1cizt1o) to connect the copper to the tube, and then you can just route the 1/2" tube
I just bought one of these myself. I haven't figured out why I need it yet, I just know I do. Thanks for the video Tabletop Machine Shop. I'll try to benefit from your experience. I might rig up a way to pass water through the coil tubing.
Can you convert a "Regular 1800w kitchen induction cooktop" to a induction heater like yours? It cost 30$ and the power supply is included. I think I only have to modify the copper tube, or do I? www.kijiji.ca/v-cuisiniere-four/laval-rive-nord/cuisiniere-a-induction-portable/1256943336?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Hmm i'm really not sure. I am certain that they use the same method of heating up materials, so I think it probably would work. For that price I'd certainly try it!
Also, you can make a cooler running treatment coil from Litz wire. It's especially made for high frequency magnetics. It's a way to go if you're not particularly thrilled with liquid cooling the treatment coil. However, Litz wire is a specialty wire and isn't cheap.
Are you sure about the Litz wire idea? I'd think the Litz wire would ruin the effect but that's just my gut talking. My gut is often wrong.
Cool, I almost killed mine yesterday too, it's scary how much heat the coil put out. Previously I was running from the "brick" power supply I got from recycle it was 20V and 12.5A and coil never got charred. I decided to get power supply with adjustable voltage and digital meter that displays voltage and amperage it actually goes up to 51.7v and 11.3 amps but boy did everything got super hot! You also reminded me that I could heat treat my O-1 parts as well. I got the water pump already, I need to make a different coil and make sure connectors extend past circuit board, don't want water leaking on circuit board.
In your MKII, you should also add a fan to cool the capacitors, inductors, and heatsink...
Further additions:-
* An ammeter
* A large resistor (nichrome wire would onto a former, kept under oil/water), about 3-4 ohms.
* Add a "soft start" switch to run power through the resistor first.
If the current is "normal", turn on a second switch that shorts out the resistor, thus applying full power.
If current is too high, turn off and fix. Nothing should have been damaged by running only at the lower power
Excellent video and explanation. Any idea how fix the busted module?
The connection method with standoffs is very elegant.
great video sir, BUT you should have a 15 amp circuit breaker on the positive line near your on/off switch, this will save your power supply from blowing up.
I have this same module only i added 4 extra Capasiters and 2 extra Inducters and soldered them under the circute Board this has stopped the module from Heating up due to prolong use.
for water cooling i used a car wipper washer bottle it works perfect with a 9v power supply.
you will need to change the coil size to get maximum temp.
Thanks for the tips I've got one of these and haven't powered it up yet, I had planned on water cooling the coil with a fountain pump.
good call. Even really small pumps seem to move enough water
I can't believe you didn't see a million other videos, where they used water running through the coil!
Also, it's not "induction heaters in general" that need the "kick", rather it's specifically ZVS drivers (what this is) that need it.
+Jethro Jones i have seen lots of videos with water cooling and lots without, so i thought i could get away without (i probably could have with more intermittent use). Thanks for the correction regarding ZVS drivers versus induction heaters.. im learning as I go! Good ideas in your other comment too, ill look at implementing them!
If you leave it out in the atmosphere it will most likely anneal i would recommend using a cooling shower underneath your coil (seperated by non conductive material brass etc) or integrated in the coil (bore holes in a 45 deegre angle and lead water through it) , the intense cooling will stimulate the creation of martensite in your material making it even harder and it will also act as an coolant for your coil.
can we use this to cook food or heat water?
Mine died at 24vdc; disappointing; perhaps overheated as it was after some time of use; not sure the best way to cool it; would an oil bath work?
OK, I know the video is 4 years old but, anyway. Capacitors get hot in these designs and, like semi conductors, need to be cooled. Also the induction coil, so try pumping water through it from a bucket on the floor. Lastly, the power consumed and heat generated will depend on how well the coil couples to the object being heated. If you had a 2 inch internal diameter coil heating a 1.75 inch solid iron bar you might get up to 1000w input. This implies you might want to try smaller diameter loops for smaller objects - you might also want to insulate the coil to avoid "issues".
Looking at the design of your induction heater, I wonder if you were to connect the induction coil to the underside of the PCB using the same standoffs it would reduce the amount of heat from the coil that convects towards the capacitors and avoid them overheating! As mentioned by others, and indeed yourself, cooling the induction coil would be an obvious improvement and cooling the PCB with a fan may also be of benefit, but only if you notice the heatsink getting very hot without one. The alternative would be to connect the induction coil with heavy gauge stranded cable to keep it away from the PCB completely. Good luck and thanks for your video.
I get the impression that the heat that did a lot of the damage was radiated from the coil, rather than any kind of direct transfer or convection, so I think a high temperature sleeve would help a lot. Thanks for watching!
I’ve ordered one. I think I’ll pass water through the coil and a fan on the inductors
You need a power supply that can deliver at least 20 amps. That's because it's all too easy to load the circuit down to the point where the power supply goes into current limiting, which reduces its output voltage. Once the voltage goes below about 12 volts, the Mosfets don't turn on fully and then they overheat and fail.
How do you make sure the induction board doesn't overdraw the power supply?
@@the.marylander With this circuit, the ONLY way to keep that from happening is to use a power supply that can supply at least 20 amps, or, even better, let's say 30 amps. The board simply takes whatever it needs. In my opinion, you MUST have some sort of amp meter in the DC line to the heater. And, just in case, a voltmeter across the DC power supply as well so you can make CERTAIN that the supply voltage never drops below 12 (or preferably 24 volts at any time. If things are working properly, when you first power it up using the coil that comes with it, the system should draw a half dozen amps or so and the power supply voltage shouldn't drop at all.
If you could PLEASE tell me exactly what kind of power supply I would need to run my 1000w zvs induction board... no one seems to either know, or want to just tell me. Please help
I don’t think you watched many other videos, or read the information from the various people selling this. Or read up on induction heaters.
You need to water cool the copper, and you also need to do better cooling of the suppy if you use it any high power. The manufacturer says that, and most of the videos by anyone who has used it without blowing it up have done that.
It’s not a toy, it uses high voltages and high current to create very high temperatures.
Fair enough, i could have done more research, and i appreciate the safety warning, though i do think it was a fairly honest depiction of how someone else may be tempted to approach it (and how thats a bad idea :p)
good video good explanation im going to buy one so what you say about voltage and cooling and the switch is very helpful thanks
Thanks Alan!
Hello,why is my led light on my psu blinking when I connect it with my zsu induction heating module?thanks
Thanks for making these videos man! I like what you do! Instead of using a pump and all, wouldn't some thick wires and some distance do the same job?
+Bart Van de Velde Thanks! Thick wires and distance probably would work, ive also seen people just use fans, but i think pumps will be my best bet to just get it working!
Great.... but it’s not due to eddy currents, it is the hysteresis loss in the iron as it gets taken 50k times a second round its B/H curve.
How do you prevent the board from overdrawing the power supply? I am finding that I can get the board to turn on, but the power supply blows once I put a piece of metal into the coil. Any ideas?
The solution is to use a suitably powerful power supply.
Ada layout untuk PCB nya?.
Atau file PCB siap cetak
My purpose is to heat 5 inch steel pipe to 150 degree.Please suggest
appropriate induction heater
That rig looks like it's not meant for constant duty. Instead of a toggle switch flopping around, try a foot switch. Leave the power supply on, and when you're ready to use it, walk up with your part, step on the switch and heat treat, then walk away. That way, it's only on long enough to heat treat your part and spends the rest of the time cooling down.
Great video! Good tips, i'm glad i watched it before i started testing my induction heaters ':)
Thanks! What are you planning on using yours for?
Was planing on anealing ballscrews so they can be turned. but i would like to heat treat iso 30 taper toolholders, but i don't know if they are to big for 1000W?
LongrangeSweden i think ballscrews would be fine depending on the type of steel, the tool holders may have to be wrapped in high temperature insulation so they dont lose the heat... u should make a video when u try it!
I think you need more amps and less voltage: You should MUCH better results here with 24v @ at least 30A
How can you control the temperature of the heated material? Lower voltage? Lower current? I want to temper something at about 250 Celsius for a longer period of time, not to go as high as 700-800 Celsius. Thanks
I think the correct way to do it would be to change the frequency which you cant really do on this board. Otherwise you could under power it and it just wouldnt be able to keep up with the object cooling. I think id go with a cheap toaster oven for annealing though :p
This is actually not such a bad idea! I already have a speed variator recovered from a old vacuum cleaner, if it's thermostat won't do the job properly. I suppose I can have enough control for what I want.
Why don't you cool down the circuit with a 12v fan instead of cooling down the coil. It works very well
Because that is not the best way to do it. The coil is a tube (pipe) for a reason. The circuit board doesn't get hot, the coil gets hot and copper conducts heat. DOH
I think you should pump water through the coil from a simple tank and you should fit a fan to cool the coils etc
+Keith Wainwright im planning on doing exactly that!
I was thinking of buying a similar kit, my goal is to experiment with heatshrink toolholders for small endmills/holders (1/8 inch or 3.175mm in SK15 toolholders for example) Do you think this kit has enough juice to heat the end of that toolholder for those small endmills?
I don't know if this would be up to it. When I get the new one up and running I'm hoping to try some shrink fit tools, but it would certainly need good cooling in the coils. The next level up is about $400 USD, but I have heard of people using that one for shrink fit tooling. I'll definitely try to come up with an answer on the part 2 of this video!
Thanks for the reply, I haven't seen someone try it on this scale (small scale) and as a DIY project. I think it's pretty cool and would love to experiment with it! For what machine and what size toolholders do you want to try it?
Well I saw someone on instagram make ER16 shrink fit solid collets, so I'd love to try that, but it wouldn't be too hard to just start with a big block of steel with a hole in it and progressively turn it down to see when the heater can expand it enough
Oh that is a way better idea! easier to use on many different machines without extensive modifications. I'll keep an eye on your video's (in case you actually get around to trying it out). If I get to it sooner, I'll let you know!
can you buy this set up ready to go without all the wiring up ... like plug it in and it works?
Probably, though they'd likely double the price
So how much do you reckon a good setup for the home shop could cost? Mainly i am looking at brazing carbide tips. thank you
hmm I think brazing carbide tips would be manageable with this ... of course you'd have to do some work to incorporate cooling. We have a $1500ish induction heater at work and it is quite powerful, but it may be overkill for brazing.
The reason the coil is made of tube and not solid wire is because you should be running water thru it.
princess auto! awesome, i'm gonna assume that means you're in Canada like me?? Whenever I see someone post a project that I'd like to duplicate, and then they reveal the parts are from harbor freight, a little piece of me dries up and dies.. and makes me wish we had harbor freights here too!
Awesome 👏🏻
This power supply is 12 v 30amp.?
i ve tested this 48v 30 amps. i also have a video. also i destroyed one by adding a huge metal piece. i have some video as a proof in my chanel.
+mitropoulosilias i'll have to check that out!
Hola me pasas el circuito y los componentes electrónicos para poder hacerlos . Gracias
can i put 2 1000w ZVS together and make them share the same coil dose that will give me 2000w power ?
Im not sure... i think they would have to be synchronized when they oscillate or they would cancel each other out
i need to melt iron and steel with this ZVS any ideas ? can it melt steel if it left for to long ?
would it be possibel to extend the coils or do they need to be a spesific length and so?
I imagine youd run into power losses with a longer coil. The more coil there is, the more inductance, and the harder it is to reverse the magnetic field quickly
thanks for sharing Tabletop Machine Shop
Anyone know what size silicone tube would fit to run water through this?
So for the pump it wants a 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) tube, the coils are 1/4", so since the video I got an adapter for 1/4" copper pipe to 3/8"ID pipe (www.mcmaster.com/#51875k52/=1ciztzo + www.mcmaster.com/#44555k133/=1cizt1o) to connect the copper to the tube, and then you can just route the 1/2" tube
what does hlaps stands for? I'm guessing you're born in 1990?
Great video as always.
hlaps is like a short version of a stupid nickname i got when i was working in construction lol... and yep, 1990
how iis it pronounce.Helps? Halps? Laps(silent H)?.LOL.
yustech good question.. i just say H-laps (just say the first letter).. pronouncing it how its spelled is difficult lol
Okay.Thanks.hehe
What kind of power supply is that ?
Either this guy is a speed reader or I should ride on the short yellow bus.
Those were the fast caption days ... I've since slowed them down haha
What frequency do they work at?
Usually a few tens of khz.
@@uK8cvPAq is there any way one could make it work at 100 KHz or any particular frequency?
@@atul2048 Yes, the frequency is set by the tank capacitor and coil inductance.
@@uK8cvPAq ✌️ ✌️ Thanks man
@@atul2048 That one is running at about 90 kHz.
Was it work with tungsten carbide
Hmm I'm not sure. Tungsten Carbide is conductive, so I would think eddy currents would cause it to heat up, but I'm not sure how well.
You are supposed to run cold water through that coil...
Yup, that's the lesson I took away from it too :P
This is a dangerous project for me, because I have chronic gadgetitus. I don't need one, I just waaaant one...
+somebody else i also suffer from gadgetitus. If only there were a cure that didnt involve more gadgets...
I just bought one of these myself. I haven't figured out why I need it yet, I just know I do.
Thanks for the video Tabletop Machine Shop. I'll try to benefit from your experience.
I might rig up a way to pass water through the coil tubing.
being that its a tube you could probably run some water threw it..
Too crazy. It'd never work.
Can you convert a "Regular 1800w kitchen induction cooktop" to a induction heater like yours? It cost 30$ and the power supply is included.
I think I only have to modify the copper tube, or do I?
www.kijiji.ca/v-cuisiniere-four/laval-rive-nord/cuisiniere-a-induction-portable/1256943336?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Hmm i'm really not sure. I am certain that they use the same method of heating up materials, so I think it probably would work. For that price I'd certainly try it!
you should watercool the coil also do you realy expect your thin wires to carry 20 amps
U don't have a fan oh dear me
Lessons learned lol
See that crappy motor pump, it is those types of crappy motors we have that I could upgrade.
My ex-wife needed a kick to to get her out of bed in the morning sorry I had to put that in
Cool it down Man, water could be flow through the copper tube!
it needs a waterpump
Can you use this to levitate a small steel ball?