I wonder if that bolt had been over torqued when assembled. It would make me question the integrity of all the others. It being on the exhaust valve I don't see how the backfire could have caused it. By the way that creeper that you have is awesome.
Luke it's a actually a sludge build up problem with the v10..some did it some didn't..the lifters either collapse and pound the bolt till failure or get stuck it the up most position and snap bolt off... There isnt much wiggle room on those engines when it comes to valve spring coil bind. Nice part is they not ally just spin right out like his did
My 99 8.0l lost rocker studs on both cylinder 2 and 5 one intake one on exhaust. Exact same time. Obviously ran like hell. Dodge dealer told me after they found the broken stud in 2 that there is no way the misfire in 5 is the same problem. So we got a new bolt and pushrod for 2 put bank one back together was told 5 was due to buildup. Did an engine and fuel system clean turned me loose. Didn't feel right about it. Went down bought 20 new bolts tore both banks down replaced all my studs and the pushrod from 5 slapped her back together and never had another problem. This was 7 years ago. No info on it now people all over are complaining about breaking studs for no reason.
I know that trick, works even better if you put a washer under the nut before welding, gives the top of the puddle something to grab onto. I spent a lot of years doing exhaust work pretty sure I have just about every type of extractor there is and nothing beats welding it out. I don't want to think about the amount of hours I have into removing broken bolts for a living 🤣
I have a 97 v10..I've put over 100k on it. I've been thinking about running wood gas but I'd like to run a aftermarket ecu if I was going to do it.. I've also been considering getting a mechanical valve body.. most of the cheaper standalone efi stuff doesn't support more than 8 cylinders..
@Marcus Norman that's right I forgot about that.. well I was thinking about making like a wood gas tune I'd have to play around with it.. I have a race truck that I run sds efi system it's a older style setup but it works and it's approved for aircraft so it's super reliable! I can't really decide what exactly I want to do with the v10 it's stick besides the transmission and torque convertor.. actually having a missifire type issue but I think it's theese Amazon 4 hole injectors I put in it.. it's bleeding off fuel pressure when I turn off the truck and I replaced the pump so I'm assuming it's one or multiple bad injectors outta the box.. it has a missfire under load like going uphill or towing a trailer ect.. it has a sweet spot around 2500 it runs perfect and it's ok at wot sometimes not much information out there on these trucks and I have no codes so yeah this sucks!
Ya the factory ecm pretty much won't throw a code until parts start falling off. My 94 has a bad upper plenum air leak for a long time surging the idle and never set a light once
You mentioned it backfired at the stop light? That was probably the result AFTER the bolt breaking and the valve not cycling properly. No telling what engine works was done before you bought it used. It may have been improperly torqued and worked itself loose.then snapped. Got to give you credit for finding the problem to begin with. Sure not afraid to get your hands dirty and start eliminating systems as you work your way down the list. One clue may be that the bolts are available " over the counter". Hmmm
its a pretty common bolt across all dodge trucks, was actually surprised I had to do a lot of driving around to find a store that had them. I really do love working on motors so I'm never really afraid to jump in head first, long as it isn't some European flavors, I. Do. NOT.. like them things they are a pain to work on way to over engineered. but at 315,000 miles of unknown history i expect a few hiccups along the way. But this one has me baffled, I just cant understand how it broke off 3 threads down inside the hole??? Your theory is very plausible, it may have been retorqued wrong in the past but the break was perfectly clean and brand new...
Very common. It's a sludge build up problem and sticks lifter in fully extended position and coil binds spring and pop goes the bolt... Probably should install an oil spinner on that beast.
@@mechanic_prepper problem is synthetic has a strange reaction with woodgas and will sludge up happened in my Toyota and several other guys have had it happen as well
@@BigBeavrSlayer spinner II. Or check out pabiodiesel ...in mean time put half quart of marvels in oil and change filter a couple times in next couple weeks... Synthetic oil is more susceptible to moisture so that reaction makes sense. Dodge V10 were sludge monsters anyways ... That broken bolt thing happens more than you would think...if not tamed next failure is cam and lifters... .. probably just gonna have to change oil every 1000 miles for a minute until it gets all scrubbed out.
I'm just glad this was on the easy side, the passenger side has the air plenum over the top and is a turd to get off. I'm still dumbfounded how it broke down inside the threaded boss??? I have never seen anything like that in all my years of spinning wrenches
@@BigBeavrSlayer Its not even like it was an old bolt re-used like a Valve Cover Bolt could be. I've only ever snapped bolts when installing old ones never on their own.
@Cody E. Tate and as far as I can tell that's a stock bolt, no Mar spots on the head like it had ever been out before. I can't think of any explanation
It can be, but im finding there was a time this wasn't uncommon for the v10 to do. It has to do with a lifter sticking and the bolt is the weakest link
It is possible, the exhaust valve was closed so any woodgas in the cylinder had no where to go. But discussing with some others that know this engine better then me there was a time this was common from sludged oil which now that I have had the valve cover off I can see this engine was not all that well maintained by its previose owners so that is another possible cause
@@BigBeavrSlayer LOL. I had a similar problem with a forklift, so many years ago. The cure was to change the oil more often because of oil contamination from particulates.
I wonder if that bolt had been over torqued when assembled. It would make me question the integrity of all the others. It being on the exhaust valve I don't see how the backfire could have caused it. By the way that creeper that you have is awesome.
Topside creepers are a life saver for jobs like this, saves the knees and much better then a hood latch in uncomfortable places!
Luke it's a actually a sludge build up problem with the v10..some did it some didn't..the lifters either collapse and pound the bolt till failure or get stuck it the up most position and snap bolt off... There isnt much wiggle room on those engines when it comes to valve spring coil bind. Nice part is they not ally just spin right out like his did
My 99 8.0l lost rocker studs on both cylinder 2 and 5 one intake one on exhaust. Exact same time. Obviously ran like hell. Dodge dealer told me after they found the broken stud in 2 that there is no way the misfire in 5 is the same problem. So we got a new bolt and pushrod for 2 put bank one back together was told 5 was due to buildup. Did an engine and fuel system clean turned me loose. Didn't feel right about it. Went down bought 20 new bolts tore both banks down replaced all my studs and the pushrod from 5 slapped her back together and never had another problem. This was 7 years ago. No info on it now people all over are complaining about breaking studs for no reason.
Weld a nut on the broken bolt and you'll be able to remove it easier
I know that trick, works even better if you put a washer under the nut before welding, gives the top of the puddle something to grab onto. I spent a lot of years doing exhaust work pretty sure I have just about every type of extractor there is and nothing beats welding it out. I don't want to think about the amount of hours I have into removing broken bolts for a living 🤣
It's a gas saving feature. Poor man's cylinder deactivation.
Ok I laughed way to hard at that!
I have a 97 v10..I've put over 100k on it. I've been thinking about running wood gas but I'd like to run a aftermarket ecu if I was going to do it.. I've also been considering getting a mechanical valve body.. most of the cheaper standalone efi stuff doesn't support more than 8 cylinders..
Why aftermarket? Hp tuners now has programming so the dodge ecm is fully tunable
@Marcus Norman that's right I forgot about that.. well I was thinking about making like a wood gas tune I'd have to play around with it.. I have a race truck that I run sds efi system it's a older style setup but it works and it's approved for aircraft so it's super reliable! I can't really decide what exactly I want to do with the v10 it's stick besides the transmission and torque convertor.. actually having a missifire type issue but I think it's theese Amazon 4 hole injectors I put in it.. it's bleeding off fuel pressure when I turn off the truck and I replaced the pump so I'm assuming it's one or multiple bad injectors outta the box.. it has a missfire under load like going uphill or towing a trailer ect.. it has a sweet spot around 2500 it runs perfect and it's ok at wot sometimes not much information out there on these trucks and I have no codes so yeah this sucks!
Ya the factory ecm pretty much won't throw a code until parts start falling off. My 94 has a bad upper plenum air leak for a long time surging the idle and never set a light once
You mentioned it backfired at the stop light? That was probably the result AFTER the bolt breaking and the valve not cycling properly. No telling what engine works was done before you bought it used. It may have been improperly torqued and worked itself loose.then snapped. Got to give you credit for finding the problem to begin with. Sure not afraid to get your hands dirty and start eliminating systems as you work your way down the list. One clue may be that the bolts are available " over the counter". Hmmm
its a pretty common bolt across all dodge trucks, was actually surprised I had to do a lot of driving around to find a store that had them. I really do love working on motors so I'm never really afraid to jump in head first, long as it isn't some European flavors, I. Do. NOT.. like them things they are a pain to work on way to over engineered. but at 315,000 miles of unknown history i expect a few hiccups along the way. But this one has me baffled, I just cant understand how it broke off 3 threads down inside the hole??? Your theory is very plausible, it may have been retorqued wrong in the past but the break was perfectly clean and brand new...
Very common. It's a sludge build up problem and sticks lifter in fully extended position and coil binds spring and pop goes the bolt... Probably should install an oil spinner on that beast.
In mean time run thinner oil and synthetic because it has better detergent package....little bit of marvels will help too
@@mechanic_prepper problem is synthetic has a strange reaction with woodgas and will sludge up happened in my Toyota and several other guys have had it happen as well
@@mechanic_prepper what would you recommend for a spinner filter?
@@BigBeavrSlayer spinner II. Or check out pabiodiesel ...in mean time put half quart of marvels in oil and change filter a couple times in next couple weeks... Synthetic oil is more susceptible to moisture so that reaction makes sense. Dodge V10 were sludge monsters anyways ... That broken bolt thing happens more than you would think...if not tamed next failure is cam and lifters... .. probably just gonna have to change oil every 1000 miles for a minute until it gets all scrubbed out.
@@mechanic_prepper I noticed this thing has a ton of build up in the motor, I was debating a quart of atf and get it hot and flush a couple times
5/16"???? That seems a bit small for the job.
Hope it stays together for you.
Same size as the rockers on the chevy motors, but im just dumbfounded how it broke off down inside the threads???
Might be a good idea to replace all those bolts just to be safe
I'm just glad this was on the easy side, the passenger side has the air plenum over the top and is a turd to get off. I'm still dumbfounded how it broke down inside the threaded boss??? I have never seen anything like that in all my years of spinning wrenches
@@BigBeavrSlayer Its not even like it was an old bolt re-used like a Valve Cover Bolt could be. I've only ever snapped bolts when installing old ones never on their own.
@Cody E. Tate and as far as I can tell that's a stock bolt, no Mar spots on the head like it had ever been out before. I can't think of any explanation
Backfire is nasty
It can be, but im finding there was a time this wasn't uncommon for the v10 to do. It has to do with a lifter sticking and the bolt is the weakest link
Have you considered this is what caused your backfire? Not the other way round.
It is possible, the exhaust valve was closed so any woodgas in the cylinder had no where to go. But discussing with some others that know this engine better then me there was a time this was common from sludged oil which now that I have had the valve cover off I can see this engine was not all that well maintained by its previose owners so that is another possible cause
Sticking lifter.
I think your right, after some digging I'm finding this was at one time a common issue with the v10
@@BigBeavrSlayer LOL. I had a similar problem with a forklift, so many years ago. The cure was to change the oil more often because of oil contamination from particulates.