Making R2-D2 Video Series: - Introduction to a DIY R2-D2 Build: ua-cam.com/video/hkkSagTsLXY/v-deo.html - Part 1 Making the dome: ua-cam.com/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/v-deo.html - Part 2 Painting the dome: ua-cam.com/video/inoqE19ODUQ/v-deo.html - Part 3 Dome lights & holoprojectors: ua-cam.com/video/hDR9z1PAJSA/v-deo.html - Part 4 Dome Completion: ua-cam.com/video/PnjCrLlJtig/v-deo.html - Part 5 Body Assembly & dome drive: ua-cam.com/video/m6VXt6VGZ3c/v-deo.html - Part 6 R2 Sound System Basics: ua-cam.com/video/cZ3sVYs7T9I/v-deo.html - Part 7 R2 Electronic Basics: ua-cam.com/video/AmUuZH3UHXg/v-deo.html - Part 8 R2 Legs & Foot Drives: ua-cam.com/video/PLyOKD5oAyM/v-deo.html - Part 9 Painting R2-D2: ua-cam.com/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/v-deo.html - Part 10 Installing Electronics: ua-cam.com/video/bg_tN6HCYN4/v-deo.html - Conclusion to a DIY R2-D2 Build: ua-cam.com/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/v-deo.html
I went to a couple of Comic-Cons recently and saw many R2s, which have given me the bug. I’ve got a 3D printer, so that gave me the other thought. Now with you videos, I think I might actually be able to do it. Thanks!
Thank you for doing this series. You gave me the courage to start this project. Probably will be watching your series hundreds of time during my build. Again, thank you.
Hi John, Just wanted to drop by to say many thanks for the great build series. It's been of immense help and really should be recommended viewing for anyone wanting to go down the same route. I was originally planning to print the v2 body but it seems that the MkIII is more rigid with less parts to try and fit.
Thankyou for taking the time to create this series. I have just started my own build & this series has helped calm my nerves. Looking forward to following your build.
Hi John, Love this series. Thanks so much for taking the time to create this series. Lots of great information and demystification on doing this project. I am following you in guiding me on this project of attempting my first R2. Did you sand each section of the main dome separately or did you begin your sanding after glueing? Also, can you forward a direct link to the assembled lighting system? I can only find the components but not the assembled version. Much thanks and gratitude.
@gtarson - Sanded both before and after fitting (sanding never ends) 😄 No link I know of. I had to search in the Astromech forums for someone currently building any light sets and then message them for pricing, availability & ordering information.
I just want to thank you in advance for your clear instructions, the honesty, your links to items required and suggestions for issues along the way. I've watched your process and cannot ... I mean... CANNOT wait to get started! Was considering different materials, cutting plastic or wood (aluminium is far too expensive for me) but this... this is fantastic! First time I saw an R2-D2 - a family friend had built an aluminium one - I cried like a star-struck fan girl. Felt like I met my idol. I am, however, concerned about all the wiring as I'm electronically dense. So again - thank you! I'm sure I'll pull my hair out and get some extra gray hairs, but this is a worthy project and I'm going to make the most of it.
@jaimeleesullivan8061 Yep, they are a very fun & rewarding build project for all us R2 fans 🙂 I link to two really good publications in the R2 electronic component video that go over the basics of droid electronics and control systems. These publications break things down into fairly understandable concepts; compartmentalizing the electronics which makes them less dauting. There is also lots of friendly help on the Astromech forum so never be afraid to ask there for help if you need it. Have fun with your R2 build 👍
@John Salt thank you so much! I have seen you linked all sorts of different sources so fingers crossed. Oh yes yes I've seen that a lot of people are willing to help out where possible so theres definitely a lot of community support :) Thank you again! Very excited!
Hi John, Absolutely a fantastic series and congrats on finishing R2D2, looks awesome. I have never been a huge Star Wars fan but I like to build things so when this video series came up in my UA-cam feed I was inspired to start researching so I can begin my build, so a Big Thankyou. Just have a couple of questions, I will also go with the Sovol SV01, did you do any upgrades to it and also when you said you used the MkIII cut files, were they the "MKIII Custom cut for PRUSA" or the "CutBody (Leon de Graaff)"? Thankyou once again. Scott.
@scottc7749. Only upgrades I've made to my Solvo is the BL touch & silent board (which I think the latest SV01 comes standard with now). Cut MKIII body files were the Leon de Graaff ones.
I love the R2 video series, was wondering how it’s holding up a couple years on? I’m 3d printing one right now with PLA+ but keep reading about how the high stress parts should be PETG, which I hate. But wondering if I should make the legs PETG anyway? Thanks!
Holding up great - no issues at all . PLA+ is strong stuff after all! Stronger than ABS in most FDM filament tests I've read/seen, but a little more brittle than PETG (brand dependent). Then again, I went with fairly thick walls and 40-50% infill on all structural parts. IMO, the only reason to use PETG for this project is if you are going to be exposing him to higher than average temps. No question, PETG is better in higher heat environments.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for your reply. So far I’ve printed the dome and most of the body using Baddeley’s recommended settings, like 20% infill and 4 walls. That shouldn’t be an issue, you think? I was going to print the shoulders and legs with much heavier settings like you used, but haven’t gotten that far.
Hi John Your R2 came out looking awesome ,ive just started my journey to making my own and wanted to ask if you still had the printed droid guide or a link to it because I cant seem to find it on Printed Droid Thank you Wiets
Link is in the description. There are many downloads on that printed droid guide site, but the print guide is definitely listed in there with all the other great resources; about 3/4 down the list.
Hi John. I am about to do final testing of my sovol sv01 and start printing. I am following the baddeley instructions as you did. What slicer did you use and if you still have them what settings did you use? Do you have the configuration files still?
I use Cura. I don't have my sliced files saved. I "mostly" used the slicer recommendation settings as per Mike's instructions, lots of information & recommendations off Astromech's forum and of course the 3D printed droid guide I reference in the very first video. Modified a few settings of course to suit my own needs and printer.
Hi John, Thanks for a great informative and entertaining series! I am just starting my build and this has really helped fill in a lot of mental gaps. Quick question did you use PLA+ for the whole dried including the legs or did you use ABS for the legs? I haven't printed with ABS yet and I know there are some challenges with it. I would be happy to avoid them if you think PLA+ all the way works fine. Thanks!
PLA+ everything. PLA is actually stronger than ABS; PLA+ even more so. The main downside to PLA is it's not as thermally stable as ABS and has a lower melting point. If you leave a PLA/+ print in a car on a sunny & hot day, chances are it will look very different afterward 😄
Thinking of starting an R2 build, and shopping for printers. Any recommendations? I know you used the Sovol SV01 for your print, but that looks to be replaced by several newer models.
I would hate to limit your almost endless list of 3D printer options by making any recommendations; especially considering having limited experience out of the hundreds of printers out there. I researched FDM 3D printers for almost 3 months before deciding on the SV01 due to several factors and if I was looking today for a replacement, I would likely take that long again - lol. I can tell you I'm still very happy with my SV01 and it's still working great; better than day one actually since I somewhat know what I'm doing now; albeit the 3D printing learning curve never ends. Solvo also has a Canadian warehouse and that was important in my decision to have somewhat local support + Creality Ender 3 support as they share many components. In other words, I would definitely get another Sovol if the SV01 crapped out tomorrow. The SV06/plus is the closest replacement but their new T300 has impressive specs.
Hi John. Planning on getting the sv01 as it worked for you. Putting up a shelf and need to know the distance between the legs. Can't find it online. If you could measure that for me that would be great. So distance between 2 front legs and distance between front and back legs.
I don't have time to measure foot distance; I'm guessing 16" apart by eyeball, but foot distance is not a measurement of concern, as the print bed moves well past the back feet while printing. You need at minimum a 24" deep bench, table, shelf, enclosure, etc.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks John. Finished with a 600mm x 1000mm x 1000mm shelf so fine. Someone has said the sovol sv01 is not good enough unless an expert printer. Do you agree? I pick up technology very quickly. Do you think a competent 3d printer can print it all of svo1 or would I need some attachments? Thanks
The SV01 (very first 3D printer I ever used) worked great out of the box printing the calibration cube and a couple benchy's afterward perfectly the first go so I would not agree with that statement at all. After all, The SV01 is essentially an Ender 3 with some improvements, and the Ender 3 as you likely know is without question the most popular entry 3D printer to date that so many people start the hobby with. Like EVERY FDM 3D printer, there is of course a fairly substantial and never ending learning curve to this regardless of brand or model. It's certainly not as hard or difficult (or costly) as getting into CNC machining, but these are also not simple ink jet or laser paper printers that anyone can use out of the box. Every FDM 3D printer takes time to learn, understand, get working correctly and consistently. Not just the printer either, understanding the slicer program takes just as much time & is as crucial as understanding your specific FDM printer. Different filament types is a whole other area of learning and experimentation as is learning some basic G-code which is never a waste either. Then learning some simple 3D modeling programs so you can modify any stock stl files if you need to. Again, a never ending learning curve. Over 2 years now and I feel as I've only scratched the surface at times; but I couldn't live without a 3D printer in the workshop now - such a powerful tool and set of skills you gain.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you. Sounds good then. Will keep looking. And looking forward to learning all the skills. Just finished my fully enclosed 3d printer shelf using a lot of materials I have hoarded over the last 20 years
Hey John! Totally realize I'm asking an off topic question for this video but figured I'd shoot anyway: Have you looked into EdgeTX for your RadiomasterTX16S? I'm very much a noob but came across it earlier today and installed that firmware. It seems to be a continuation of the OpenTX project and now allows for the touchscreen to work as well as theme selections. It supposedly also increase the poll rate on the sensors so possible plus. I'd love to see your take on it and possible video? on the subect. Cheers!
I have no interest in Edge at this time. I don't beta test operating systems, and that is largely what Edge is (as the name suggests - "the cutting edge"). I'm the type of person that waits for all the bugs in firmware releases to be worked out for several months before updating. There is also nothing currently that Edge offers above what OpenTX already does that would make me want to risk using it on a costly and dangerous collective pitch heli. OpenTX in its latest versions is proven and I'm very comfortable and familiar with it - I don't want to introduce unknowns. In fact, this constant firmware update game is my least favorite part of the hobby. How I miss the days where you could get a radio and use it for many years with no BS involved. Touch screen on any RC radio is not my cup of tea. Give me an encoded scroll wheel any day of the week so my screens remain finger print free. 🙂 My understanding from the Edge development team is as Edge concepts are worked out and developed, the ones that are most liked and beneficial will work their way into OpenTX updates. That may or may not happen; but again, I'm in no rush because I want an RC operating system that is 100% reliable and time proven. If/ when Edge ever replaces OpenTX and OpenTX is no longer being developed, that is when I will be forced to change over, but not a moment sooner. If Edge however has features you & many others like, then great that it's another option to use right now.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John! I understand and agree with your perspective and agree on the potential disaster a bug could have on a CP heli vs a quad which most people seem to be on these days. I did struggle a bit with some interface changes and will agree that work *is* there to be done. Appreciate your view!
Build methods and materials for different budget information is all discussed in both detail and depth in the Astromech's forums; you just have to do your due diligence and research to find out which build method is best suited.
@@Rchelicopterfun well thats mo help at all it's the damn clubs and forums their all tight lipped you would think id asked for the damn elixir of life thanks anyway
What's it like going through life feeling you have that much entitlement? I also don't know what your idea of "everyday items" are, nor do I know what your definition of affordable is. For me, everyday items for an affordable R2 build comprises RC radio equipment and 3D printed parts. A 3D printed Astromech is by far the most affordable option. You can put a very good looking, RC controlled, 3D printed R2 together for under $2K which is very affordable when you consider most other build options are at least double that and upwards of a magnitude more. This I learned while doing my own DIY R2 build research when looking at different ways to build one, which I found early on in my research almost two years ago in the Astromech forum. It didn't take much time, research, or intelligence either to figure that out. Lastly and perhaps most importantly, the Astromech forum is far from "tight lipped." That is utter nonsense! It's free to join and is loaded with a wealth of great information & build experiences available for all to benefit from. Add to that all the different R2 builders websites and build series on UA-cam - you obviously don't appreciate just how much great and free information you have at your finger tips. Good luck with your R2 build. You'll certainly need it with your entitled attitude.
Presume you are being hyperbolic; but to answer your question, more like around 30kg. I cover the total filament I ended up using in my R2 finished printing video: ua-cam.com/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/v-deo.html
I'm still subbed to Michaels Patreon for the great resources, content and a way to thank him in some small way for the amazing amount of work and time he has spent in design. No idea about Adobe Fusion files? All the 3D files I used were STL and of course the other resources he has made available such as instruction manuals and the MP3 sound files.
Never, I would get sued. One of the very first things that is stressed and that you must agree to when joining the R2/Astromech Builders Club is you will not sell these things for any sort of monetary gain because of the legality issues. Besides, who would pay over $10K USD for one; which is the minimum I would charge given the huge time investment that goes into one of these projects.
Making R2-D2 Video Series:
- Introduction to a DIY R2-D2 Build: ua-cam.com/video/hkkSagTsLXY/v-deo.html
- Part 1 Making the dome: ua-cam.com/video/HaZ7ABkhwn8/v-deo.html
- Part 2 Painting the dome: ua-cam.com/video/inoqE19ODUQ/v-deo.html
- Part 3 Dome lights & holoprojectors: ua-cam.com/video/hDR9z1PAJSA/v-deo.html
- Part 4 Dome Completion: ua-cam.com/video/PnjCrLlJtig/v-deo.html
- Part 5 Body Assembly & dome drive: ua-cam.com/video/m6VXt6VGZ3c/v-deo.html
- Part 6 R2 Sound System Basics: ua-cam.com/video/cZ3sVYs7T9I/v-deo.html
- Part 7 R2 Electronic Basics: ua-cam.com/video/AmUuZH3UHXg/v-deo.html
- Part 8 R2 Legs & Foot Drives: ua-cam.com/video/PLyOKD5oAyM/v-deo.html
- Part 9 Painting R2-D2: ua-cam.com/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/v-deo.html
- Part 10 Installing Electronics: ua-cam.com/video/bg_tN6HCYN4/v-deo.html
- Conclusion to a DIY R2-D2 Build: ua-cam.com/video/sIpBA6UigTQ/v-deo.html
I went to a couple of Comic-Cons recently and saw many R2s, which have given me the bug. I’ve got a 3D printer, so that gave me the other thought. Now with you videos, I think I might actually be able to do it. Thanks!
Have fun with your R2 build 🙂
Thank you for doing this series. You gave me the courage to start this project. Probably will be watching your series hundreds of time during my build. Again, thank you.
Have fun with your R2 build! 🙂👍
Inspired by your videos John I started my build today. Looking forward to the challenge!
Have fun with your build & enjoy the journey 🙂
The website is very complicated. You dumbed it down for me. And that, I appreciate. Thanks. I’m only 15 and I will start
Super cool, looking forward to the unfolding of the project.
Hi John, Just wanted to drop by to say many thanks for the great build series. It's been of immense help and really should be recommended viewing for anyone wanting to go down the same route. I was originally planning to print the v2 body but it seems that the MkIII is more rigid with less parts to try and fit.
Thanks back for the views and glad you are finding the series useful for your own 3D printed build. Have fun with your build. 👍
Hey John! just started my own R2 unit, love your detailed videos, your definitely my inspiration to tackle this project! best
Enjoy your build! It's so much fun 🙂
Thankyou for taking the time to create this series. I have just started my own build & this series has helped calm my nerves.
Looking forward to following your build.
@Brad Stott - glad to hear you're also embarking on an R2 build. Wishing you good success & fun in your build as well 🙂👍
This is super helpful. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos!
@Thomas Raven - Glad you like them. More coming, but it's a slow build 🙂
Hi John, Love this series. Thanks so much for taking the time to create this series. Lots of great information and demystification on doing this project. I am following you in guiding me on this project of attempting my first R2. Did you sand each section of the main dome separately or did you begin your sanding after glueing? Also, can you forward a direct link to the assembled lighting system? I can only find the components but not the assembled version. Much thanks and gratitude.
@gtarson - Sanded both before and after fitting (sanding never ends) 😄
No link I know of. I had to search in the Astromech forums for someone currently building any light sets and then message them for pricing, availability & ordering information.
Really awesome project, I love R2D2. I’m looking forward to seeing the whole series! Thanks for sharing your work! 👍🏻😃👍🏻
My pleasure 🙂
Will follow your channel and how this project develops. Nice to the the Eagle from Space 1999 in the background 👍🏼 You have good taste 😁
LOL Love the Star Wars saga’s . Very nice 👍
I just want to thank you in advance for your clear instructions, the honesty, your links to items required and suggestions for issues along the way.
I've watched your process and cannot ... I mean... CANNOT wait to get started!
Was considering different materials, cutting plastic or wood (aluminium is far too expensive for me) but this... this is fantastic!
First time I saw an R2-D2 - a family friend had built an aluminium one - I cried like a star-struck fan girl. Felt like I met my idol.
I am, however, concerned about all the wiring as I'm electronically dense.
So again - thank you! I'm sure I'll pull my hair out and get some extra gray hairs, but this is a worthy project and I'm going to make the most of it.
@jaimeleesullivan8061 Yep, they are a very fun & rewarding build project for all us R2 fans 🙂
I link to two really good publications in the R2 electronic component video that go over the basics of droid electronics and control systems. These publications break things down into fairly understandable concepts; compartmentalizing the electronics which makes them less dauting. There is also lots of friendly help on the Astromech forum so never be afraid to ask there for help if you need it. Have fun with your R2 build 👍
@John Salt thank you so much! I have seen you linked all sorts of different sources so fingers crossed. Oh yes yes I've seen that a lot of people are willing to help out where possible so theres definitely a lot of community support :)
Thank you again! Very excited!
Hi John, Absolutely a fantastic series and congrats on finishing R2D2, looks awesome. I have never been a huge Star Wars fan but I like to build things so when this video series came up in my UA-cam feed I was inspired to start researching so I can begin my build, so a Big Thankyou.
Just have a couple of questions, I will also go with the Sovol SV01, did you do any upgrades to it and also when you said you used the MkIII cut files, were they the "MKIII Custom cut for PRUSA" or the "CutBody (Leon de Graaff)"?
Thankyou once again. Scott.
@scottc7749. Only upgrades I've made to my Solvo is the BL touch & silent board (which I think the latest SV01 comes standard with now). Cut MKIII body files were the Leon de Graaff ones.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thankyou John, very much appreciated.
I love the R2 video series, was wondering how it’s holding up a couple years on? I’m 3d printing one right now with PLA+ but keep reading about how the high stress parts should be PETG, which I hate. But wondering if I should make the legs PETG anyway? Thanks!
Holding up great - no issues at all . PLA+ is strong stuff after all! Stronger than ABS in most FDM filament tests I've read/seen, but a little more brittle than PETG (brand dependent). Then again, I went with fairly thick walls and 40-50% infill on all structural parts. IMO, the only reason to use PETG for this project is if you are going to be exposing him to higher than average temps. No question, PETG is better in higher heat environments.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for your reply. So far I’ve printed the dome and most of the body using Baddeley’s recommended settings, like 20% infill and 4 walls. That shouldn’t be an issue, you think? I was going to print the shoulders and legs with much heavier settings like you used, but haven’t gotten that far.
Congratulations.Which level on mr.Baddeley’s patreon page has the 3d prints?
Hi John
Your R2 came out looking awesome ,ive just started my journey to making my own and wanted to ask if you still had the printed droid guide or a link to it because I cant seem to find it on Printed Droid
Thank you Wiets
Link is in the description. There are many downloads on that printed droid guide site, but the print guide is definitely listed in there with all the other great resources; about 3/4 down the list.
Hi John. I am about to do final testing of my sovol sv01 and start printing. I am following the baddeley instructions as you did. What slicer did you use and if you still have them what settings did you use? Do you have the configuration files still?
I use Cura. I don't have my sliced files saved. I "mostly" used the slicer recommendation settings as per Mike's instructions, lots of information & recommendations off Astromech's forum and of course the 3D printed droid guide I reference in the very first video. Modified a few settings of course to suit my own needs and printer.
I’m looking for the print guide as well..
Hi John, Thanks for a great informative and entertaining series! I am just starting my build and this has really helped fill in a lot of mental gaps. Quick question did you use PLA+ for the whole dried including the legs or did you use ABS for the legs? I haven't printed with ABS yet and I know there are some challenges with it. I would be happy to avoid them if you think PLA+ all the way works fine. Thanks!
PLA+ everything. PLA is actually stronger than ABS; PLA+ even more so. The main downside to PLA is it's not as thermally stable as ABS and has a lower melting point. If you leave a PLA/+ print in a car on a sunny & hot day, chances are it will look very different afterward 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the quick reply! I'll make sure not to leave R2in the car on a hot day! Ha!
Hi. Have any links to files for the 3D printing?
As stated, links are in the description.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks. I'm only 15. But I need it for college
Where is the link that u used to print the instruction manual as well as the hardware for each process
As stated in the video - links are in the description to all these resources.
Hey, how do i get the SLT files for the 3D printing. I am subscribed to his patreon, is it the dollar one or do i need to upgrade it.?
Thinking of starting an R2 build, and shopping for printers. Any recommendations? I know you used the Sovol SV01 for your print, but that looks to be replaced by several newer models.
I would hate to limit your almost endless list of 3D printer options by making any recommendations; especially considering having limited experience out of the hundreds of printers out there. I researched FDM 3D printers for almost 3 months before deciding on the SV01 due to several factors and if I was looking today for a replacement, I would likely take that long again - lol.
I can tell you I'm still very happy with my SV01 and it's still working great; better than day one actually since I somewhat know what I'm doing now; albeit the 3D printing learning curve never ends.
Solvo also has a Canadian warehouse and that was important in my decision to have somewhat local support + Creality Ender 3 support as they share many components. In other words, I would definitely get another Sovol if the SV01 crapped out tomorrow. The SV06/plus is the closest replacement but their new T300 has impressive specs.
Any ideas where I could find a clear dome for a full size R2?
No idea - Astromech Forum search to the rescue.
Is that a space 1999 eagle in the background?
👍🙂
Thank you my fried I found that print guide not as scarce as unicorn piss after all.
😂
Hi John. Planning on getting the sv01 as it worked for you. Putting up a shelf and need to know the distance between the legs. Can't find it online. If you could measure that for me that would be great. So distance between 2 front legs and distance between front and back legs.
I don't have time to measure foot distance; I'm guessing 16" apart by eyeball, but foot distance is not a measurement of concern, as the print bed moves well past the back feet while printing. You need at minimum a 24" deep bench, table, shelf, enclosure, etc.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks John. Finished with a 600mm x 1000mm x 1000mm shelf so fine. Someone has said the sovol sv01 is not good enough unless an expert printer. Do you agree? I pick up technology very quickly. Do you think a competent 3d printer can print it all of svo1 or would I need some attachments? Thanks
The SV01 (very first 3D printer I ever used) worked great out of the box printing the calibration cube and a couple benchy's afterward perfectly the first go so I would not agree with that statement at all. After all, The SV01 is essentially an Ender 3 with some improvements, and the Ender 3 as you likely know is without question the most popular entry 3D printer to date that so many people start the hobby with.
Like EVERY FDM 3D printer, there is of course a fairly substantial and never ending learning curve to this regardless of brand or model. It's certainly not as hard or difficult (or costly) as getting into CNC machining, but these are also not simple ink jet or laser paper printers that anyone can use out of the box.
Every FDM 3D printer takes time to learn, understand, get working correctly and consistently. Not just the printer either, understanding the slicer program takes just as much time & is as crucial as understanding your specific FDM printer. Different filament types is a whole other area of learning and experimentation as is learning some basic G-code which is never a waste either. Then learning some simple 3D modeling programs so you can modify any stock stl files if you need to. Again, a never ending learning curve. Over 2 years now and I feel as I've only scratched the surface at times; but I couldn't live without a 3D printer in the workshop now - such a powerful tool and set of skills you gain.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you. Sounds good then. Will keep looking. And looking forward to learning all the skills. Just finished my fully enclosed 3d printer shelf using a lot of materials I have hoarded over the last 20 years
Hi John so cool buddy
Hey John! Totally realize I'm asking an off topic question for this video but figured I'd shoot anyway:
Have you looked into EdgeTX for your RadiomasterTX16S? I'm very much a noob but came across it earlier today and installed that firmware. It seems to be a continuation of the OpenTX project and now allows for the touchscreen to work as well as theme selections. It supposedly also increase the poll rate on the sensors so possible plus. I'd love to see your take on it and possible video? on the subect.
Cheers!
I have no interest in Edge at this time. I don't beta test operating systems, and that is largely what Edge is (as the name suggests - "the cutting edge"). I'm the type of person that waits for all the bugs in firmware releases to be worked out for several months before updating. There is also nothing currently that Edge offers above what OpenTX already does that would make me want to risk using it on a costly and dangerous collective pitch heli.
OpenTX in its latest versions is proven and I'm very comfortable and familiar with it - I don't want to introduce unknowns. In fact, this constant firmware update game is my least favorite part of the hobby. How I miss the days where you could get a radio and use it for many years with no BS involved.
Touch screen on any RC radio is not my cup of tea. Give me an encoded scroll wheel any day of the week so my screens remain finger print free. 🙂
My understanding from the Edge development team is as Edge concepts are worked out and developed, the ones that are most liked and beneficial will work their way into OpenTX updates. That may or may not happen; but again, I'm in no rush because I want an RC operating system that is 100% reliable and time proven. If/ when Edge ever replaces OpenTX and OpenTX is no longer being developed, that is when I will be forced to change over, but not a moment sooner.
If Edge however has features you & many others like, then great that it's another option to use right now.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John! I understand and agree with your perspective and agree on the potential disaster a bug could have on a CP heli vs a quad which most people seem to be on these days. I did struggle a bit with some interface changes and will agree that work *is* there to be done. Appreciate your view!
can a 220* 220 *270 work well with this
Not with the larger size prints. You would have to find and use the smaller cut file versions for the large sections in the Baddlely folders.
@@Rchelicopterfun so for the large ones I need to cut the prints to get them to work and then glue them together?
@@Rchelicopterfun where did you get your printer and whats the plate size and the height
Could you tell me everyday items that can be used for a astromech i cannot afford the parts from r2d2 builders club.
Build methods and materials for different budget information is all discussed in both detail and depth in the Astromech's forums; you just have to do your due diligence and research to find out which build method is best suited.
@@Rchelicopterfun well thats mo help at all it's the damn clubs and forums their all tight lipped you would think id asked for the damn elixir of life thanks anyway
What's it like going through life feeling you have that much entitlement?
I also don't know what your idea of "everyday items" are, nor do I know what your definition of affordable is.
For me, everyday items for an affordable R2 build comprises RC radio equipment and 3D printed parts. A 3D printed Astromech is by far the most affordable option. You can put a very good looking, RC controlled, 3D printed R2 together for under $2K which is very affordable when you consider most other build options are at least double that and upwards of a magnitude more.
This I learned while doing my own DIY R2 build research when looking at different ways to build one, which I found early on in my research almost two years ago in the Astromech forum.
It didn't take much time, research, or intelligence either to figure that out.
Lastly and perhaps most importantly, the Astromech forum is far from "tight lipped." That is utter nonsense! It's free to join and is loaded with a wealth of great information & build experiences available for all to benefit from. Add to that all the different R2 builders websites and build series on UA-cam - you obviously don't appreciate just how much great and free information you have at your finger tips. Good luck with your R2 build. You'll certainly need it with your entitled attitude.
how much filament is used?? im guessing around 10000kg
Presume you are being hyperbolic; but to answer your question, more like around 30kg. I cover the total filament I ended up using in my R2 finished printing video: ua-cam.com/video/E8h0l4rHvC4/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun sorry im new to 3d printing still learning and can tell me how much you used on the head? and Ps i seen that video after i asked.
Apx. 3 rolls.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks
@@Rchelicopterfunwow. That’s way less than my novice mind would have guessed. Nice to know.
hello do you can senb by email the manual guide . please
Did you have to subscribe for a full year to Michael Baddeley’s Patreon’s site for the full Adobe Fusion files?
I'm still subbed to Michaels Patreon for the great resources, content and a way to thank him in some small way for the amazing amount of work and time he has spent in design. No idea about Adobe Fusion files? All the 3D files I used were STL and of course the other resources he has made available such as instruction manuals and the MP3 sound files.
The rocket behind the printer needs to be more pointy
That's a Space 1999 (awesome Sci-Fi TV series back in the 70's) Eagle and is the correct dimensions.
God I wished
You should build and sell them
Never, I would get sued. One of the very first things that is stressed and that you must agree to when joining the R2/Astromech Builders Club is you will not sell these things for any sort of monetary gain because of the legality issues. Besides, who would pay over $10K USD for one; which is the minimum I would charge given the huge time investment that goes into one of these projects.