Instead of you commentator's to encourage the young man why are you discouraging him he is doing best job to me it is an innovation Rome was not built in a day,here is no any science or technology in the world that doesn't have it beginning, we must all start from somewhere.
6011 will weld through small amounts of rust, all the other rods require a clean surface for a strong arc. Your rods may have less conductivity than the factory made versions in which case you will need more amps.
I love your" I can do it" attitude, and that you shared it with us. I love your philosophy of how we should understand the fundamentals. Your sodium silicate solution has too much free sodium hydroxide which will draw water from the air. Even the silicate will hold water until it is heated which will cause problems. Try putting just enough sodium silicate to hold and mix in fine silica sand. After you get the material on the rod expose it to high concentration CO2 to 'set' or harden the silicate. This happens very quickly at high CO2 concentrations. After exposure to CO2 sodium silicate turns to SiO2 (sand) and Sodium Carbonate. It is the method they use on hardened sand molds. Another test you could do is to remove the coatings on some commercial rods and try your mix on them. It will point to where the deficiency is. Thanks again
The issue of unstable arc is also sorta because were used to modern RR electrodes, which have a very forgiving and solid arc. In the early days of arc welding, they actually used unshielded electrodes quite often, and, having tried that myself, your electrode control needs to be perfectly on point, the arc is very fragile, so I think even a simple shielding like this should be a good step up.
Hmmmm a thought occurred, in the coating mixture use some kind of glue while also compressing it no paper and maybe knurling the rod. Also hanging the rods from a vertical position while drying. I’m not good with sentencing but I hope you get the idea
hey, I really like your investigation, wile i was watching the video, 2 ideas came to me, 1) have you try to hang the electrodes inside the oven to dry? like from the top, or maybe using some kind of structure, a wire one, and 2) what if, insted of paper, that break easyly while you wrap it, you use some kind of string, maybe cotton or wool, that may make easy the wraping and also suck te flux mix, anyway, i really like your video, thanks for sharing
Thank you for posting this! Your video was the only one i could find! This work is very valuable to people who are very poor and cant afford to practice with industrial quality rods - gotta save those for the jobs!
Have you considered starting with something like ER70 rod and maybe even make a collab with one of the welding channels and see what they think? Love the content.
5 min of info in a 30 min vid... and I'd suggest viewers put their paper in the grinder as well then just dip your rods and hang dry... as detailed as this video is not sure why all the th e spent and mess from bring to wrap
i think the main reason why weld broke was the material of the hanger, try with twisted mig wire, about the coating ill do some experimentation, FYI the last time i bought a welding rod was a long time ago, i make my own welding rods
Is that really efficient? Would you recommend it? I'm wondering if it's worth my time learning to make my own if at the end I'll just go back to store bought rods
great video. I fell a sodium silicate rabbit hole recently and found you. I will be def trying this for some cast aluminum welding which is a weird project. thanks
a few things, when yous aid 'weld any position' the position (overhead, vertical, horizontal) is, to my understanding, independent of the weld angle you were talking about also paper is cellulose which is a primary ingredient in many rods, 6010 for example is a high cellulose rod
to clarify, I mean that the 'all positions' refers to the weld pool behavior since a fast-freeze you don't have to worry about it dripping down on you in overhead
Running a bead on a rusty piece of metal with a commercial electrode works pretty well, especially with a sparky rod like 6011. I'd be willing to post some pics. Not saying one shouldn't make an effort to remove rust before welding, just saying I think you're way over the top on your criticism.
Nah man I can make a weld on an old rusty circular sawblade without removeing the rust and it will not break before the metal bends and I've litterly just started welding with my own welder I got today only other time I've welded was with a welder at school once for 15 mins. 6011 will weld rust no problem painted and plated surfaces may be a problem tho
This was amazing, great work! I'm curious about your choice of silica balls instead of cat litter (as per the NR video linked). Did you just happen to have a bunch of silica packets around? Regardless, keep up the awesome!
Yeah funny enough Ive been just collecting silca gel packets every chance I got for this project. I only trusted packets thats literally were labelled "Silica Gel" as some specific packets can have mixtures of activated carbon, iron, and silica gel or something else entirely. The different colored beads were due to indicator put in them that turned a different color when moisture was adsorbed. So nothing really special about the silica, but I would go with the cat litter if you need it in bulk, thanks for the comment!
@@DaveSmith-cp5kj a good alternative is floor dry the stuff that's meant for absorbing spills of oil off shop floors is pure silicon dioxide. Enough can't be said about wearing mask when using these products. Silicon dioxide does similar damage to one's lungs that asbestos does.
NIce videos! came for the one on the shredder and have seen almost all, hehe. Keep doing great stuff like this and you'll get many viewers and subscribers sooner than you think! All the best!
You should try grinding the paper into a powder and making a flux pulp that you dip the rods in for a more even coat
I've done this in the past but using very fine wood dust it honestly worked the treat
@@DatBoiOrly Whatever consumes oxygen while burning will probably do it... ;)
@@DatBoiOrly I was going to come in here and suggest saw dust. My orbital sander produces wood flour would be perfect
as a welder, this was painful to watch. but your enthusiasm was pretty good
Instead of you commentator's to encourage the young man why are you discouraging him he is doing best job to me it is an innovation Rome was not built in a day,here is no any science or technology in the world that doesn't have it beginning, we must all start from somewhere.
6011 will weld through small amounts of rust, all the other rods require a clean surface for a strong arc.
Your rods may have less conductivity than the factory made versions in which case you will need more amps.
I love your" I can do it" attitude, and that you shared it with us. I love your philosophy of how we should understand the fundamentals. Your sodium silicate solution has too much free sodium hydroxide which will draw water from the air. Even the silicate will hold water until it is heated which will cause problems. Try putting just enough sodium silicate to hold and mix in fine silica sand. After you get the material on the rod expose it to high concentration CO2 to 'set' or harden the silicate. This happens very quickly at high CO2 concentrations. After exposure to CO2 sodium silicate turns to SiO2 (sand) and Sodium Carbonate. It is the method they use on hardened sand molds. Another test you could do is to remove the coatings on some commercial rods and try your mix on them. It will point to where the deficiency is. Thanks again
The issue of unstable arc is also sorta because were used to modern RR electrodes, which have a very forgiving and solid arc.
In the early days of arc welding, they actually used unshielded electrodes quite often, and, having tried that myself, your electrode control needs to be perfectly on point, the arc is very fragile, so I think even a simple shielding like this should be a good step up.
Hmmmm a thought occurred, in the coating mixture use some kind of glue while also compressing it no paper and maybe knurling the rod. Also hanging the rods from a vertical position while drying. I’m not good with sentencing but I hope you get the idea
Bro in the post apocalyptic wasteland you will be building an empire while the haters cant quite remember the ingredients you used lol
Correction: At 14:02 I said "1011 rod" when I meant to say "6011 or 6010 rod"
I used to say 1109 and see if anybody could find it
$20 for 5 lb.
I think I'll buy some
hey, I really like your investigation, wile i was watching the video, 2 ideas came to me, 1) have you try to hang the electrodes inside the oven to dry? like from the top, or maybe using some kind of structure, a wire one, and 2) what if, insted of paper, that break easyly while you wrap it, you use some kind of string, maybe cotton or wool, that may make easy the wraping and also suck te flux mix, anyway, i really like your video, thanks for sharing
U deserve million subs
Very cool and impressive video!
Could you do a lab/workshop tour in the future?
That's a real johnny law thing to ask....
He has a glove literally in front of him, and he doesn't use it. XD
Most likely Sodium is present enough in solution to cause adsorbtion
Thank you for posting this! Your video was the only one i could find!
This work is very valuable to people who are very poor and cant afford to practice with industrial quality rods - gotta save those for the jobs!
Yeah no I’m a pipeliner and even I don’t practice with Excalibur or bohler rods. I use Hobart or sunset to practice
Have you considered starting with something like ER70 rod and maybe even make a collab with one of the welding channels and see what they think? Love the content.
Thats not bad for homemade welding rods. Its really hard to replicate industrial manufactured rods but good for you
I'd like to see you go full Applied Science on this and try making 6010 1/8th" rod.
Good, thanks
great job
how to give yourself cancer in 31 minutes
Not bad for a zombie apocalypse🤣🤣🤣🤪
The last electrode is similar 6010
5 min of info in a 30 min vid... and I'd suggest viewers put their paper in the grinder as well then just dip your rods and hang dry... as detailed as this video is not sure why all the th e spent and mess from bring to wrap
i think the main reason why weld broke was the material of the hanger, try with twisted mig wire, about the coating ill do some experimentation,
FYI the last time i bought a welding rod was a long time ago, i make my own welding rods
Is that really efficient? Would you recommend it? I'm wondering if it's worth my time learning to make my own if at the end I'll just go back to store bought rods
the mig wire is 0.030 ,just use them when welding very thin materials
can you please tell us the ingredients you use to make the rods ? can we make a business out of it?
@@Calm-ideas sodium silicate, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium sulfate or epsom salt , 1:1 bicarbonate to sulfate, silicate to make a paste
@@deserticus18 thnx man definetily i will come back with questions!!!!
Lesson for today: MIG/TIG prevents the need for a M.S. Degree in chemistry, just to weld (when you absolutely refuse to buy Lincoln 6011's)...
Probably best to avoid hygroscopic compounds. You would probably get better results with a mixture of baking soda and crushed glass.
Maybe you should learn to weld first. You current is too low for the type of rod you are using
You truly have to be cheap if you have to make your own welding electrodes tbh
great video. I fell a sodium silicate rabbit hole recently and found you. I will be def trying this for some cast aluminum welding which is a weird project. thanks
If that "L" bracket was an old bed rail than it is indeed high carbon steel.
You should try using thread covered wires, then coat them.
Is there another reason to do that except for "just for fun and the heck of it"?
Welding rods are dirt cheap.
Watch 29:09
a few things, when yous aid 'weld any position' the position (overhead, vertical, horizontal) is, to my understanding, independent of the weld angle you were talking about
also paper is cellulose which is a primary ingredient in many rods, 6010 for example is a high cellulose rod
but this video is amazing and I totally want to try it now, thank you for your insight especially about the stoichiometric reality vs the theory
to clarify, I mean that the 'all positions' refers to the weld pool behavior since a fast-freeze you don't have to worry about it dripping down on you in overhead
It is practically impossible to weld rusty metals. You failed through incompetence and lazyness and not because the method doesn't work.
Running a bead on a rusty piece of metal with a commercial electrode works pretty well, especially with a sparky rod like 6011. I'd be willing to post some pics. Not saying one shouldn't make an effort to remove rust before welding, just saying I think you're way over the top on your criticism.
Quick repairs on rusty, painted, plated, oily stuff is one of the great advantages of cellulosic rods.
Nah man I can make a weld on an old rusty circular sawblade without removeing the rust and it will not break before the metal bends and I've litterly just started welding with my own welder I got today only other time I've welded was with a welder at school once for 15 mins. 6011 will weld rust no problem painted and plated surfaces may be a problem tho
This was amazing, great work!
I'm curious about your choice of silica balls instead of cat litter (as per the NR video linked). Did you just happen to have a bunch of silica packets around?
Regardless, keep up the awesome!
Yeah funny enough Ive been just collecting silca gel packets every chance I got for this project. I only trusted packets thats literally were labelled "Silica Gel" as some specific packets can have mixtures of activated carbon, iron, and silica gel or something else entirely. The different colored beads were due to indicator put in them that turned a different color when moisture was adsorbed. So nothing really special about the silica, but I would go with the cat litter if you need it in bulk, thanks for the comment!
Silica gel is more pure than cat litter which has other additives that need to be removed.
@@DaveSmith-cp5kj a good alternative is floor dry the stuff that's meant for absorbing spills of oil off shop floors is pure silicon dioxide. Enough can't be said about wearing mask when using these products. Silicon dioxide does similar damage to one's lungs that asbestos does.
Rusty
Paint gun
NIce videos! came for the one on the shredder and have seen almost all, hehe. Keep doing great stuff like this and you'll get many viewers and subscribers sooner than you think! All the best!