Thanks kindly! man I went crazy trying to get it off the first few times, then once I got the hang of it a bit easier after that! I'm sure those guys at dodge dealerships do it in their sleep!
Don't know how to seperate a spring clip fuel line, prob shouldn't be doing this job. My guess is you were pulling on the lines trying to get them to come apart. That will bind spring tabs on the line. Simple put tool on line, push the 2 halves together as hard as you can, to release the binding action then while holding tension between the coupling slide the to up into it then hold the line with tool around it securly and slide the other end away from the tool. Prob the easiest part but every shop I've worked at young techs struggle with this fitting. The real key is force then toward eschother
Two extra bits of context: First- The reason that you could safely lift the engine with those two bolts is that the Gen 3 Hemi is actually a bit light for its displacement. And second- That engine bay was also able to host the Viper V10. By comparison, the Gen 3 Hemi is going to be small and out of the way.
Did my engine on my 2012 hemi 4x4 , easiest engine I did, I used ratchet straps to hold up the transfer case , plenty of room to work , I did label my bolts in separate bags , did not label my wiring and it went well. Yup not bad , great video
I've did 06 n jeeps n 05 but I am usevto doing the GM 48 53 60 ect and I just know where all that is. Only thing about them is front ends set up high on 4 wheels n dodge n jeeps fronts come off easier. I just got a 2009 5.7L Hemi in about to tackle it its a 4 wheel It looks lil more to it,but that 2012 you did wasn't any worse ? As I said b4 can do GM without ever labeling 1st wire or bolt anything like that ,but we haven y done a ton dodges untill lately
I just plugged into the charger, since watching this video I am getting the confidence to go rip my hemi out. I am quite literally stranded with my camper and a blown engine in a farmers field in Rural Alberta.
Very sorry to hear that man! I'm in Calgary myself, to be honest its a big job, it takes a long time, especially if you're a 4x4, the motor I bought from a shady dude in the city ended up having low compression in a cylinder, had to take head off to find gunk under valve. Get a friend to tow your rig back to town, or sign up for AMA, its low cost and they do huge towing included in the basic plan! take your time to replace the motor, find out what went wrong, consider the costs and take your time to do it right with no pressure! Where abouts in AB are you? Sorry for your bad luck!
Thanks for sharing!! This truck is super easy to work on, lots of room, well engineered (with a few exceptions). I’ve got a 2007 w/ 201k miles and will be pulling the engine once it finally goes out and this gives me a lot more confidence to tackle it.
@@Kingsoupturbo 2006 wasn't as bad did jeep was lil worse I just hate how high the 4 wheels set. The 2009 1500 5.7L hemi in 1 the bays now seems to look a lil more to it then the 06 I did. I am use to the Ls and Gm engines. An as you mentioned im not big on Triton Ford work.
I always take the front tires off and let the truck down as far as I can. Usually set on wood blocks under lower control arms. This helps for some things . Not all
Thanks man! I really appreciate the kind words! It was a tough job in the end but totally worth it! Best of luck on your repairs as well! (download that factory manual if you end up having issues once its back in, great for troubleshooting )Thanks for watching! :)
Agreed with most of this however if you happen to have a gen 3 with 4WD, just be aware of the uni-bracket thingy that is part of the driver side engine mount. This mount/bracket attaches to the engine, front differential and transmission as one piece. I opted to remove the bolts from the block as it appeared to be the easiest route. The passenger side mount is identical to yours where you remove the inner bolt and loosen the outer. Overall, not the worst engine I've ever removed, pretty straight forward. Worst I've done, Passat wagon and Volvo 960. Never again. Another point to mention, have a cherry picker with a pretty long reach as there is a better part of 30" from the front bumper to the front of the engine.
Love Your Video! I'm pulling mine for a rebuild at 180,000. Always said Dodge, was designed with the mechanic in mind! I rebuilt my Dakota at 200,000 it's been all over the country LA, FL, MN, IL, you get the point. 320,000 now, best trucks ever.
I just did my 07 Aspen Hemi and ya, easiest motor that I have personally worked on. Highly recommended engine. 225k miles and ZERO CAM DAMAGE 🥳. One tip though; take all the trough and wiper assembly. Makes it that much easier.
@@Kingsoupturbo yeah I have deep raddling in chain area 2009 model zero oil pressure after a min running only 114k on the truck. Pre 08s I did had 200k b4 I had to change them n they would spit out a rocker from under the cam too I had 1 brought in n he said needed engine or chains n I pulled valve cover cause had rear raddle n miss n fixed it
Nice job! make sure to get that flex plate attached well and switch over the dowel pins, and try to align those brackets which attack with the bellhousing bolts, I found them challenging. Thanks for watching and good job getting it done!
Ha ha....I have 367,000 on my 2007 truck and it is STILL running great. It uses some oil but no MILs, no real problems. It still idles fine and makes decent power. I checked this video just to see about the difficulty of the removal. Thanks for the effort. This helps me feel better about when that time comes...because it will.
If a engine drops a valve seat ALWAYS REPLACE INTAKE!! My advice. I used to do alot of these and if you chance it half the time a metal chunk will be in the intake waiting to be sucked in.
Very much! I read the same thing, I had a new intake manifold on the replacement, some people claim to be able to clean the old intake out, but its a big job to change the motor, worth changing the manifold.
@@Kingsoupturbo I have had these towed in before from other shops who used the old intake had issues with replacement engine and gave up. The intake would destroy the new engine with chunks of metal
Did you remove the battery positive cable plus the ground cables before you started to remove. I just didn’t one and removed all the ground cables but I didn’t remove the positive cable off the battery and now the truck after replacing the engine will not start. Trans Coles a few others and it won’t power up the ECM. Tried disconnecting the grounds a couple times reconnect after 15 minutes and it’s still would not power up the ECM a simple step to replace or resetting the ECM
Hey bud glad to see the 2wd is so easy, which I can tell from the motor mounts on my 2004 donor on my 4wd p.o.s 2005 piece of crap rusted siezed truck!!!
Now I stand corrected, I started typing that right out the gate when you bragged about how easy it was. Which you know it was. Took me 6 bloody knuckle hours and 3 cans of pb blaster later. Also Dodge decided to put alot of bullshit bolts on that front differential in 05 and made it a m#$_er F#$&er to get. And oh ladies and gentlemen. Unless you got that handy cherry picker and helping hand on stand by. Don't F@#$ing do it or your gunna play with your truck and your safety. (I was smart and had a friend and did it the right way but he almost sweet talked me otherwise! Which I'm glad he didn't give me a reach around and tell me I had beautiful eyes and Dodge motors won't fall like a sack of shit cause I already know what gravity is all about!!! Lol rant over. I literally just pulled that and a case of beer. I'm calm.. lol and once again, THANK YOU 4X4 GEN 3 DODGE ENGINEERS. YOU SUCK!!
Rust is a nightmare, this truckI think didn't get driven in winter much and came apart easily. I just did motor and later trans on a F150, which is a nightmare of epic proportions, no clearance, bullshit cab on frame like the Ram, transfer case wouldn't get out of the way, stuck torsion bars, cutting, blaster, torches, welders, impact hammers, the dodge was a lot easier but it took me weeks to fix its mystery misfire problems and had to take one head back off from valve gasket jammed on a valve giving low compression. Body on frame = no clearance + cheaply made engines = nightmare, I hear yah.
I am doing my 2008 Dodge 5.7 my problem is how to get the harness connector undone. I following your instructions and so far it's going great I only smashed every fingernail and busted 3 knuckles haha but the damn harness connectors are not all the same I figured out the one u slide over to unlock like the one that hooks egr but them on top are freaking kicking my butt
The ones on top as I remember are brutal! they're so tight the connectors, I would label them as when I put it back together I as confused as what went where on the new motor! best of luck to you!
What special tools you need for this? I’m working on replace my camshaft and lifters, but might end up replacing the engine since it has +300 k miles on it, 2009 5.7 and the clutch fan it self giving me a hard time, the fan removal tool I have won’t fit
I plan on replacing both the engine and trans in my 2004 dodge 4x4 hemi. Do you think it would have been easier to leave the trans connected to the motor and do it as one whole piece or to seperate?
Hey there! I would keep them connected, it was a huge pain in the rear to get the trans connected, although possible for me. If you're doing both at once, will save you a bunch of cursing, if not a little bit more awkward. Since the whole front comes off though more or less, should be no problem to slide both back in. Thanks for watching and best of luck! remember to label everything, and take 100x pictures of every detail!
My 2015 Ram, 147k miles, has a seized lifter. Need to replace the motor. The dealer wants $9k. 18 hours of labor. I am thinking about getting a used engine. Found one with 55k on it for $2400. I think changing the engine will be less time/labor than doing the long block. Your thought? Thanks
Hey there! ahhh the dreaded hemi tick! I think the most cost effective way is to pull the head and replace the camshaft and lifter. Pulling the head is not hard as these things go. I would totally repair the motor I have then replace one, you never know if the new motor is good or not or has its own hemi tick issues. Not to mention you can skip motor mounts, bellhousing madness, wiring screw ups, slight differences from motor to motor. I"ve read the front timing case can come off and change the cam with the motor in. I've considered buying a hemi-tick truck myself and doing this repair. Really sorry for your bad luck, Chrysler should have fully recalled all the hemi's with this issue and repaired it, shameful of them. Good luck with your decision!
@@lostintime8651 Totally, there is that chance~! ahhh thats a shame if there is a ton of metal in there, 9000$ is insane. I think those last generation hemi motors are pretty cheap, i've seen them for 1000$ Canadian and its not too hard to change them if you pay attention to detail. I always try to remind myself, label all the wires, little baggies for all the bolts with labels, makes that reassembly a lot easier!
I'd say 6 hrs to pull it and reasonably about double that to put it back in (much faster with help, the bellhousing flex plate was a real Pain), in my case with a cylinder misfire problem about 20hrs to get it running right.
great video.! I have the same problem. 4.7 dropped the seat and engine is not worth rebuilding when I can get a 5.7. hopefully all I'll need is mounts wire harness. pcm and of course the motor
Keep an eye on the dowel pins and flex plate as you remove it, need those lined up right to get it back together and the wiring harness on the back of the motor that shares the bellhousing bolts, hopefully comes out easy for you! putting it back in, is a little trickier!
Hey there, I found the Chrysler factory manual for download I think on one of the dodge Ram forums, really useful! The one thing I wish was maybe having the proper or fab a proper hoist mounting point plate so it goes in nice and straight. I would also seriously consider pulling the trans with the motor next time, I think would save so much time getting the flex plate\bolts\torque converter on outside the engine, that having to connect the other trans stuff when put back in would be childs play compared to the hassle I had of getting it all aligned with just pulling the motor.
Oh! Also pull the whole front bumper and support first thing off the bat, its only like 8 bolts and a few clips, makes so much more clearance in there, totally worth it.
Its so variable based on so many factors (rust) I think probably 6hrs or so is a standard time to get a motor out, now putting it back in, another thing entirely, it was a real pain in the derrier this thing
mmmmm that Converter does have to be seater properly, it'll still bolt up to the converter sticking out too far but it'll scrape. Like the engine seems to run well but won't put power to the ground? pull the inspection plate and see if can you tell if its seated. Might be able to unbolt the converter from the flex and still seat it, hopefully if thats the issue!
@@vidalm64 Sounds like the converter isn't seated to me. I did this accidentally on a subaru once and blew up the trans oil pump which I was able to replace. Not sure on the Dodge what happens, might just need a full seating and you'll be good to go! Man, finishing other peoples projects can be real tough!!
@@Kingsoupturbo do i have to remove the whole transmission or can i just get it through the inspection plate? And tell me about I had to guess where the rest of bolts and find out where plugs went. Everything was just thrown in a pile
Used the same ECU, but it had very hard to clear codes with a previous misfire, I think you need a factory style code reader to truley clear them. I think you just have to match the right Hemi, either non MDS or MDS, of 2009+. Did the ecu work previously?
Hey can you post a video please of the positive cable routing from the battery to the front of the car and where they split off at in the engine bay please I would really appreciate it
I wish I could! I sold this truck after the motor swap was complete, man do I take a lot of pictures now, or try to, when I take things apart like this, putting it back in and making it run right took weeks and weeks.
so what was wrong with your engine. I have an 06 1500 mega that turns over hard despite new battery and starter. won't run, barely cranks and sounds labored. under 90000 miles.
That sounds like maybe lower end bearings if the engine is partially seized but it could be a lot of things. This engine had been overheated and one of the valve seats just fell out (I read that its poor quality machining that leads to this) so it was banging around inside, real bad. Maybe check our oil plug to see if there is metal on it, or compression check to see if something is wacky. Best of luck!
Its pretty tricky, getting the rotation angle and front to rear tilt just right, I ended up straddling the motor from the top rotating it to get the dowels to line up a bit, this is very ideally a 2 person job to get them to line up and get a bolt in, remember to switch your dowels over and get that SOB flex plate bellhousing thing lined up best you can.
i noticed that you have a jack holding the transmission up, what problems could happen if you do not have it held up the 6 or so inches by a jack and just let it sit on the under body frame and ends up 6-10 inches lower than you currently have it?
What is the connector for that was that you spoke briefly about that you missed and didn't know was there . we did the same thing. Just wondering what purpose it has or the even the name of the connector.
It really depends on how the engine\trans has been taken care of, oil\fluid changes, so many varibles but in theory it can last 1,000,000 miles, hope you get there! thanks for watchin!
@@Kingsoupturbo hi yes I bought the truck that I was inquiring earlier I love it kids love it. It's the mega cab so now there's more elbow room so as I inspected it. Only oil leak was the rear main seal. Engine sounds quiet. But i realized he has no catalyst yet he put a flow master but uts too loud. The long term fluctuates but is 17 at idle n has a lot of raw fuel smell I think the catalyst would help with that smell I wonder
@@victornaja7927 Nice! those trucks are huge in the back! no Cats eh? thats not good! mine had a fuel evaporation purge problem from the Tank and had the raw fuel smell as well, might be whats happening on yours!
@@Kingsoupturbo dear mr king so what does the dodge engine suppost to sound like. Standing up on top looking down its quiet steady rpms are 600 but I know it has an exhaust leak looking at gasket with black carbon. How ever this smooth sound comes from lower portion of the heads. Almost like the sound of a diesel truck but more more quiet. That's the best I describe. Should I be concerned just bought truck yesterday sound was the same but truck is to. Ice to pass for just bad engine if that be what it is. Csn you please gi e .e your two sense in that. Something about dodge engines being is it long roded engined
@@victornaja7927 Hey there, the Hemi should sounds pretty smooth, other then your exhaust manifold leak which is common with many trucks. Sometimes you can get noise from the lifters if its low on oil, or a long time since an oil change, or an issue. If there is a knocking noise you need to isolate where its coming from, which can be difficult. Check out some videos on how to use a mechanics stethescope to figure out there its coming from. I'd check out some videos as well on what the engine sounds like when its working perfectly, it should be pretty quiet!
Had mine rebuilt and the guy forgot to put the dipstick tube back in cause he couldnt find it. I bought one and was going to install but it looks like it goes behind the motor mount am I correct?
I think thats right! the motor and trans are already installed right? sometimes they are really hard to get in. Make sure its fully seated so it doesn't leak, I had a devil of a time with my F150
@@blackram6 Patience is the key! I rushed it and regreted on the F150, it was the craziest combination of twists, turns, a dark art to get it in, I hope your Dodge experience is way easier! good luck!
Looking at rebuiling my 06 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi.. Its shaking real bad and leaking oil like crazy... It runs just Makes a horrible sound... I had ran in through a dip of water and im not sure if i flooded the engine... But people have told me i blew a piston.. I already had the hemi tick already so i dont know hopefully i can get my engine fixed without buy awholw other one
I'd check cylinder compression, check your oil to see if it has water in it. There are tests you can do to check for rod bearing failure too, places to listen etc. If the valve seat fell out like in mine, you'll get Zero compression in that cylinder! stop driving and find out whats wrong, it might not be to late to save the motor!
I was able to keep the system pressurized, although I slightly cracked one of the fittings on the compressor and had to rebulid it in the end, it is possible though, just a pain in the butt to keep it all out of the way during the engine swap.
I didn't! it went in easy enough, I had problems with sporatic misfires on cyl 1, turned out a valve had like gasket stuck to it and I had to pull the head. Still weird ECU misfire detection, had to clear the battery like 3 times before it dropped the codes and allowed spark in that cylinder. Quite a complex ECU the dodge has in it.
Gosh, if someone was good at this job and had done it before? motor swap probably 600-1000$ Canadian, 4wd would cost more, bad donor engine (like I had, stuck valve) even more, so many variables in there.
Hey I have a 06 hemi with a bad knock when the truck is cold but after 10 mins when truck is fully warm knock is gone ...knock also will also disappear if you rev the engine......do you think main rain or crank bearing............ 2nd question......what type of 5.7 can I interchange with my 5.7 hemi.....I also have a 2006 ram hemi 5.7 but 4x4 just wondering what other 5.7 are drop ins
Hey there, it sounds like connecting rod failure, its almost always rod and not crank mains that fail. I'd use a stethescope to make sure exactly where the problem is coming from, its very hard to tell sometimes. You might be able to get away with dropping the oil pan and replacing the rod bearings if there is no damage to the crank or rod ends. I am pretty sure it is only compatible with the MDS engines that were 06-08 i think was the year, a little bit extra expensive to find, likely a lot cheaper just repair the one you have now. Stop driving it immediatly and make sure its rod bearing failure, it might be repairable still for cheap.
Kingsoupturbo very much appreiciate the feedback...I will be testing with the stethoscope today to see if I can pin point where its coming from....thanks again and I'll update you with what I mysteriously find
Best of luck! googling it they always say, oh stuck lifter, piston slap, but sadly its often rod knock, but early detection can lead to a cheap repair! I've had to do this too many times, and wished I'd detected it right away, dropped the pan and replaced the rod bearings before it totally ruins the crank or puts a hole in the block, high five, be tough and get it done!
Kingsoupturbo I do agree the Google has to many internet mechanics that never touch these wrenches.....checked it out with stethoscope definitely coming from the bottom end....going to pull the pan and see if I can work around the front diff ( dam 4x4 ) ..enjoy your videos and thanks for the info...to all us with a wrench and bloody hand keep on wrenchin cheers
Thats a good question! I'd imagine you have to take the oil pan off and pull off the offending bearings on the crank to get it to rotate short of cutting open the trans bellhousing and replacing it later. I think I've seen them on the internet pull the motor and trans, and put a huge breaker bar on the crank to get it to rotate and then get the converter bolts off on a semi siezed motor. I bet its no problem to pull the motor\trans as a single unit with the front rad crossmember removed, lots of room there!
engine weighs around 600lbs I think, 1 ton should be fine but remember to be on the side of safety, even with a fancy hoist its scary having an engine high in the air like that!
@@seannic66 The wires are no problem, Pro-tipe is to put a small piece of tape and label every single one, don't miss any. Also use little baggies to group and label all the bolts, the real mechanics all do this, its essential. It takes a lot more time to put it in, then take it out, so plan for that, nice to have a friend to help as well. Sometimes its eaiser to pull the transmission with the engine as well, the bellhousing bolts and flexplate are tough to align on this one, and get the wiring harness bracket on at the same time, I think I'd consider that if I did this again. Also nice to clean the engine before you pull it, powerwash it, scrub it, its worth it, careful organization will pay back 50x when you re-assemble it!
Yeah I'm picking up a 2006 1500 dodge ram quadcab with a thron rod and the guy got a replacement factory rebuilt engine with zero miles I'm getting it fir 2500
@@seannic66 Thats a good deal! hopefully its a matching MDS motor, take your time, label, videos, pictures, and you'll be fine! its people who rush stuff that it goes baaaad!
Apparnetly 2006-2008 they had not cleranced the valve seats tight enough, so if the engine overheated quite a bit, they just fall out. I googled it on the Charger\300c forums and tons of people had reported issues the same as this. Chrysler apparently tightned up the tolerances for the later motors, but a pretty silly way to destroy a motor isn't it?
I think the last version of the Gen3 Hemi with variable valve timeing is pretty reliable! mostly its a very well built engine, metal head gaskets factory, huge valves and ports, and easy to work on, all cars have their various problems.
I"m sure you can make it fit, but likely it will have a different driveshaft, mounts, controller, probably not worth it, unless you can find a write up on the forums from someone else who has done the work. Changing an exactly same transmission to the same is a lot of work on its own
There is a dust cover on the front bottom area of the transmission facing the oil pan(which the oil pan sort of hides it ) , you just take that off and you can barely get to the converter bolts. The main thing that bugs me is there is almost no way to get a screw driver in there to turn the flex plate so you need a buddy to turn the engine with a socket on the crankshaft.
Ha! Try to remove the engine on the 4wd version, you,ll be there for hours trying to figure how to get it off, I'm currently in the process of removing my 5.7 Hemi on an 04 ram 1500 4wd
Mine was a bit of a mystery too, as I remember its a bolt down the passenger side of the body, just down the bellhousing, I think I ended up using a longer heavy gauge wire to make the connection as the factory one broke when I pulled the motor.
that stock cable is kind of flimsy! just waiting to be replaced, I never did line up the fuel rail clip assembly that has the top bellhousing bolts hold it on, that was impossible for me! maybe you had better luck, hard!
thats a tough one! I'd say you have to drop the oil pan and loosen off the crank cap bolts in order to turn that thing over and get at the bolts, pour some oil into the cylinders to soak and then big breaker bar works sometimes too if the pistons are rusted locked! good luck, sounds like a real pain in the butt!
@@naturemom7846 just remove the engine with torque converter connected to the engine. Keep a jack under the trans and work the converter out then when u get the engine out you can get to the torque convert bolts.
@@Kingsoupturbo I have a 2005 dodge 1500 5.7 hemi I bought a 2004 4x4 Durango 5.7 hemi Will that motor work it came out of a 4x4 and putting it in 2 wheel drive truck
@@richardnewburn4163 It should work? i think 2006+ was the MDS engines, there may be some different accessories and manifolds to change but the heads and block should all be the same. I did a Chevy 4.3 from a Blazer into an Astro van once, and there were a lot of different doo dads to change but the engines were pretty much the same! 2wd transmission is the same just without the 4wd parts.
Hello my car comrade from USA , i am from Russia ,I have the same great car ,and i saw that you are proffecional in cars ,and i have some probleme with my motor , what i mean , i have some pouring antifreeze from location between COMPRESSOR AIR CONDITIONING and generator ,i will be verey pleased if you give me some tips have a nice day .
Sounds like a leak from the intake manifold, I would pressure test the system to figure out where the leak is! (you can find out how to make cooling system leakdown testers on the internet) best of luck my friend!
The bore was scratched enough it would have taken a overbored and they don't sell overbore rings\piston for 1x, I still have the old motor though and time permitting can overbore the block and get a piston set, but its pricey, you're catching up on a used motor pretty fast at that point
iv got a 2004 hemi 1500 got it all lose but motor doesnt want to pull .im not sure why iv got all bolts out and cherry picker just wont pull it .acts like something is holding it
Check out the ground cables on the back of the heads, they bolt to the firewall, that would be enough! Also the wiring harness clips to the back of the head and onto the Trans, that might be holding you up!
Ricky Latham Also if you left the exhaust manifolds bolted to the heads, they may catch a little on the frame when lifting. If manual trans, the pressure plate may snag up on the input of the transmission til ur forward enough
fuel line disconnect is literally the hardest part of removing this engine...not even exaggerating. very well explained sir.
Thanks kindly! man I went crazy trying to get it off the first few times, then once I got the hang of it a bit easier after that! I'm sure those guys at dodge dealerships do it in their sleep!
can't find the reference "mikado tech" on youtube or anywhere for that matter !
Don't know how to seperate a spring clip fuel line, prob shouldn't be doing this job. My guess is you were pulling on the lines trying to get them to come apart. That will bind spring tabs on the line. Simple put tool on line, push the 2 halves together as hard as you can, to release the binding action then while holding tension between the coupling slide the to up into it then hold the line with tool around it securly and slide the other end away from the tool. Prob the easiest part but every shop I've worked at young techs struggle with this fitting. The real key is force then toward eschother
The fuel line in this truck literally takes 20 sec to remove.
@@hydrogilbicacid OKay bro so offer your techniques not ridicule. You're not cool because you know how to do something and someone else doesn't.
Two extra bits of context: First- The reason that you could safely lift the engine with those two bolts is that the Gen 3 Hemi is actually a bit light for its displacement. And second- That engine bay was also able to host the Viper V10. By comparison, the Gen 3 Hemi is going to be small and out of the way.
Did my engine on my 2012 hemi 4x4 , easiest engine I did, I used ratchet straps to hold up the transfer case , plenty of room to work , I did label my bolts in separate bags , did not label my wiring and it went well. Yup not bad , great video
I've did 06 n jeeps n 05 but I am usevto doing the GM 48 53 60 ect and I just know where all that is. Only thing about them is front ends set up high on 4 wheels n dodge n jeeps fronts come off easier. I just got a 2009 5.7L Hemi in about to tackle it its a 4 wheel It looks lil more to it,but that 2012 you did wasn't any worse ? As I said b4 can do GM without ever labeling 1st wire or bolt anything like that ,but we haven y done a ton dodges untill lately
I mean its 114k 09 truck with zero oil pressure after 1 min running and hard raddling in the chains area.
This gives me more motivation to pull mine and rebuild it once it starts to exhibit issues.
Very nice!!! enlist the help of a friend when you do it, not necessary but its sure nice!
Very good video. Love the calm attitude. Really motivates people to get their hands dirty.
Thanks so much!!!!
I just plugged into the charger, since watching this video I am getting the confidence to go rip my hemi out. I am quite literally stranded with my camper and a blown engine in a farmers field in Rural Alberta.
Very sorry to hear that man! I'm in Calgary myself, to be honest its a big job, it takes a long time, especially if you're a 4x4, the motor I bought from a shady dude in the city ended up having low compression in a cylinder, had to take head off to find gunk under valve. Get a friend to tow your rig back to town, or sign up for AMA, its low cost and they do huge towing included in the basic plan! take your time to replace the motor, find out what went wrong, consider the costs and take your time to do it right with no pressure! Where abouts in AB are you? Sorry for your bad luck!
Thanks for sharing!! This truck is super easy to work on, lots of room, well engineered (with a few exceptions). I’ve got a 2007 w/ 201k miles and will be pulling the engine once it finally goes out and this gives me a lot more confidence to tackle it.
I like how the front end comes off, pretty nice! and a good factory manual, you can't go wrong!
@@Kingsoupturbo 2006 wasn't as bad did jeep was lil worse I just hate how high the 4 wheels set. The 2009 1500 5.7L hemi in 1 the bays now seems to look a lil more to it then the 06 I did. I am use to the Ls and Gm engines. An as you mentioned im not big on Triton Ford work.
I always take the front tires off and let the truck down as far as I can. Usually set on wood blocks under lower control arms. This helps for some things . Not all
Man I got to say you are certainly a motivating individual I'm going to go tackle this right now appreciate buddy keep up the good work
Thanks man! I really appreciate the kind words! It was a tough job in the end but totally worth it! Best of luck on your repairs as well! (download that factory manual if you end up having issues once its back in, great for troubleshooting )Thanks for watching! :)
Agreed with most of this however if you happen to have a gen 3 with 4WD, just be aware of the uni-bracket thingy that is part of the driver side engine mount. This mount/bracket attaches to the engine, front differential and transmission as one piece. I opted to remove the bolts from the block as it appeared to be the easiest route. The passenger side mount is identical to yours where you remove the inner bolt and loosen the outer. Overall, not the worst engine I've ever removed, pretty straight forward. Worst I've done, Passat wagon and Volvo 960. Never again. Another point to mention, have a cherry picker with a pretty long reach as there is a better part of 30" from the front bumper to the front of the engine.
Love Your Video!
I'm pulling mine for a rebuild at 180,000. Always said Dodge, was designed with the mechanic in mind!
I rebuilt my Dakota at 200,000 it's been all over the country LA, FL, MN, IL, you get the point.
320,000 now, best trucks ever.
Agreed! they are pretty easy to work on compared to many other things I've done! 320,000 is impressive!
Ever done the filter on the oil change lol
I just did my 07 Aspen Hemi and ya, easiest motor that I have personally worked on. Highly recommended engine. 225k miles and ZERO CAM DAMAGE 🥳. One tip though; take all the trough and wiper assembly. Makes it that much easier.
Right! nice idea, lots of extra clearance there. I think the pre 09 engines didn't have the Cam/lifter problems the later ones did? nice!
@@Kingsoupturbo yeah I have deep raddling in chain area 2009 model zero oil pressure after a min running only 114k on the truck. Pre 08s I did had 200k b4 I had to change them n they would spit out a rocker from under the cam too I had 1 brought in n he said needed engine or chains n I pulled valve cover cause had rear raddle n miss n fixed it
Bruh literally took me like 1.5 to get it out.. mines was a 4.7. Video definitely helped merry Christmas
Just pulled mine on a 2006 Durango 4wd and it took me 4 afternoon's. Now bout to put it back in a rebuild.
Nice job! make sure to get that flex plate attached well and switch over the dowel pins, and try to align those brackets which attack with the bellhousing bolts, I found them challenging. Thanks for watching and good job getting it done!
Thank you for posting this video. Have 201k miles on my 5.7, may have to do a swap in the next year or two.
Thanks! hopefully with some tender care yours will keep running for a long time!
Ha ha....I have 367,000 on my 2007 truck and it is STILL running great. It uses some oil but no MILs, no real problems. It still idles fine and makes decent power. I checked this video just to see about the difficulty of the removal. Thanks for the effort. This helps me feel better about when that time comes...because it will.
Thanks my man! Starting to pull mine here any day….going to build bore and stroke it! Giddy up!
love your attitude with it! Ill take the few 12 hours days.Thank you!
Thanks for your kind words! :)
If a engine drops a valve seat ALWAYS REPLACE INTAKE!! My advice. I used to do alot of these and if you chance it half the time a metal chunk will be in the intake waiting to be sucked in.
Very much! I read the same thing, I had a new intake manifold on the replacement, some people claim to be able to clean the old intake out, but its a big job to change the motor, worth changing the manifold.
@@Kingsoupturbo I have had these towed in before from other shops who used the old intake had issues with replacement engine and gave up. The intake would destroy the new engine with chunks of metal
@@donaldm4846 I read the same thing online and switched mine with the new garbage motor I bought on this one. Good advice!
Did you remove the battery positive cable plus the ground cables before you started to remove. I just didn’t one and removed all the ground cables but I didn’t remove the positive cable off the battery and now the truck after replacing the engine will not start. Trans Coles a few others and it won’t power up the ECM. Tried disconnecting the grounds a couple times reconnect after 15 minutes and it’s still would not power up the ECM a simple step to replace or resetting the ECM
Thank you for the nice motivation.
Thank you for this encouraging video:-)
I hope if you have to do this job, it goes well! label those bolts! thanks for the kind words!
Good video, good info, and interesting
Hey bud glad to see the 2wd is so easy, which I can tell from the motor mounts on my 2004 donor on my 4wd p.o.s 2005 piece of crap rusted siezed truck!!!
Now I stand corrected, I started typing that right out the gate when you bragged about how easy it was. Which you know it was. Took me 6 bloody knuckle hours and 3 cans of pb blaster later. Also Dodge decided to put alot of bullshit bolts on that front differential in 05 and made it a m#$_er F#$&er to get. And oh ladies and gentlemen. Unless you got that handy cherry picker and helping hand on stand by. Don't F@#$ing do it or your gunna play with your truck and your safety. (I was smart and had a friend and did it the right way but he almost sweet talked me otherwise! Which I'm glad he didn't give me a reach around and tell me I had beautiful eyes and Dodge motors won't fall like a sack of shit cause I already know what gravity is all about!!! Lol rant over. I literally just pulled that and a case of beer. I'm calm.. lol and once again, THANK YOU 4X4 GEN 3 DODGE ENGINEERS. YOU SUCK!!
Rust is a nightmare, this truckI think didn't get driven in winter much and came apart easily. I just did motor and later trans on a F150, which is a nightmare of epic proportions, no clearance, bullshit cab on frame like the Ram, transfer case wouldn't get out of the way, stuck torsion bars, cutting, blaster, torches, welders, impact hammers, the dodge was a lot easier but it took me weeks to fix its mystery misfire problems and had to take one head back off from valve gasket jammed on a valve giving low compression. Body on frame = no clearance + cheaply made engines = nightmare, I hear yah.
drhoades103 OMG! YOU R 1 FUNNY dude, lm still laughing LOL...
I am doing my 2008 Dodge 5.7 my problem is how to get the harness connector undone. I following your instructions and so far it's going great I only smashed every fingernail and busted 3 knuckles haha but the damn harness connectors are not all the same I figured out the one u slide over to unlock like the one that hooks egr but them on top are freaking kicking my butt
The ones on top as I remember are brutal! they're so tight the connectors, I would label them as when I put it back together I as confused as what went where on the new motor! best of luck to you!
where did you get the Manual? I want to do it on my dodge charger
There is extra bracketing that attaches the motor to the frame and to the axle and alot less room for the 4x4
I bet its hard with 4x4! hard enough with just 2wd!
Thanks a lot for all the tips great job!!!!😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
What special tools you need for this? I’m working on replace my camshaft and lifters, but might end up replacing the engine since it has +300 k miles on it,
2009 5.7 and the clutch fan it self giving me a hard time, the fan removal tool I have won’t fit
I plan on replacing both the engine and trans in my 2004 dodge 4x4 hemi. Do you think it would have been easier to leave the trans connected to the motor and do it as one whole piece or to seperate?
Hey there! I would keep them connected, it was a huge pain in the rear to get the trans connected, although possible for me. If you're doing both at once, will save you a bunch of cursing, if not a little bit more awkward. Since the whole front comes off though more or less, should be no problem to slide both back in. Thanks for watching and best of luck! remember to label everything, and take 100x pictures of every detail!
My 2015 Ram, 147k miles, has a seized lifter. Need to replace the motor. The dealer wants $9k. 18 hours of labor. I am thinking about getting a used engine. Found one with 55k on it for $2400. I think changing the engine will be less time/labor than doing the long block. Your thought? Thanks
Hey there! ahhh the dreaded hemi tick! I think the most cost effective way is to pull the head and replace the camshaft and lifter. Pulling the head is not hard as these things go. I would totally repair the motor I have then replace one, you never know if the new motor is good or not or has its own hemi tick issues. Not to mention you can skip motor mounts, bellhousing madness, wiring screw ups, slight differences from motor to motor. I"ve read the front timing case can come off and change the cam with the motor in. I've considered buying a hemi-tick truck myself and doing this repair. Really sorry for your bad luck, Chrysler should have fully recalled all the hemi's with this issue and repaired it, shameful of them. Good luck with your decision!
@@Kingsoupturbo That's the way I would like to go. But you know they said, metal fragments in the engine. ENGINE BAD!! LOL
@@lostintime8651 Totally, there is that chance~! ahhh thats a shame if there is a ton of metal in there, 9000$ is insane. I think those last generation hemi motors are pretty cheap, i've seen them for 1000$ Canadian and its not too hard to change them if you pay attention to detail. I always try to remind myself, label all the wires, little baggies for all the bolts with labels, makes that reassembly a lot easier!
How long did it take to pull it 🤔and how long did it take to put the new one in
I'd say 6 hrs to pull it and reasonably about double that to put it back in (much faster with help, the bellhousing flex plate was a real Pain), in my case with a cylinder misfire problem about 20hrs to get it running right.
great video.! I have the same problem. 4.7 dropped the seat and engine is not worth rebuilding when I can get a 5.7. hopefully all I'll need is mounts wire harness. pcm and of course the motor
I think its a pretty close conversion!
Okay so I am all the way down to disconnecting the engine from the transmission. What should I watch for as I'm down there? Also mine is 4x4.
Keep an eye on the dowel pins and flex plate as you remove it, need those lined up right to get it back together and the wiring harness on the back of the motor that shares the bellhousing bolts, hopefully comes out easy for you! putting it back in, is a little trickier!
@@Kingsoupturbo Thanks! Your video is really helpful.
Where did you download the manual and any recommendations on the fuel line tool?
Hey kip I'm in a nightmare with this truck need some pointers
those pliers for the fuel line !! What's the name / model
when you talk about the manual for this. which one are you referring to? getting ready to do the same thing here saw your video and it's very helpful
Hey there, I found the Chrysler factory manual for download I think on one of the dodge Ram forums, really useful! The one thing I wish was maybe having the proper or fab a proper hoist mounting point plate so it goes in nice and straight. I would also seriously consider pulling the trans with the motor next time, I think would save so much time getting the flex plate\bolts\torque converter on outside the engine, that having to connect the other trans stuff when put back in would be childs play compared to the hassle I had of getting it all aligned with just pulling the motor.
Oh! Also pull the whole front bumper and support first thing off the bat, its only like 8 bolts and a few clips, makes so much more clearance in there, totally worth it.
I have to do this this week.How many hrs do u have into the engine removal.
Its so variable based on so many factors (rust) I think probably 6hrs or so is a standard time to get a motor out, now putting it back in, another thing entirely, it was a real pain in the derrier this thing
Finished a truck like this someone else started. Not sure if they set the torque converter in right cause now the truck has no power and rattling alot
mmmmm that Converter does have to be seater properly, it'll still bolt up to the converter sticking out too far but it'll scrape. Like the engine seems to run well but won't put power to the ground? pull the inspection plate and see if can you tell if its seated. Might be able to unbolt the converter from the flex and still seat it, hopefully if thats the issue!
@@Kingsoupturbo awesome!! Thanks ill check it out. Just pulled the inspection plate off.
@@Kingsoupturbo doesnt put any power to ground at all. Lags alot. Definitely makes this horrible rattling noise.
@@vidalm64 Sounds like the converter isn't seated to me. I did this accidentally on a subaru once and blew up the trans oil pump which I was able to replace. Not sure on the Dodge what happens, might just need a full seating and you'll be good to go! Man, finishing other peoples projects can be real tough!!
@@Kingsoupturbo do i have to remove the whole transmission or can i just get it through the inspection plate? And tell me about I had to guess where the rest of bolts and find out where plugs went. Everything was just thrown in a pile
Did you also swap the ecm out to match the engine or had it reprogrammed, having a problem with mine
Used the same ECU, but it had very hard to clear codes with a previous misfire, I think you need a factory style code reader to truley clear them. I think you just have to match the right Hemi, either non MDS or MDS, of 2009+. Did the ecu work previously?
Hey can you post a video please of the positive cable routing from the battery to the front of the car and where they split off at in the engine bay please I would really appreciate it
I wish I could! I sold this truck after the motor swap was complete, man do I take a lot of pictures now, or try to, when I take things apart like this, putting it back in and making it run right took weeks and weeks.
thank you for your video! do I need to remove the oil pan? I'm almost done removing everything. two Sundays 3 hours total so far.
I don't think so! should clear no problem with the complete motor.
so what was wrong with your engine. I have an 06 1500 mega that turns over hard despite new battery and starter. won't run, barely cranks and sounds labored. under 90000 miles.
That sounds like maybe lower end bearings if the engine is partially seized but it could be a lot of things. This engine had been overheated and one of the valve seats just fell out (I read that its poor quality machining that leads to this) so it was banging around inside, real bad. Maybe check our oil plug to see if there is metal on it, or compression check to see if something is wacky. Best of luck!
How those ground go in head , is it one wire?
I paid 4200 long block I just bought and price went up couple days later 8200 now bran new
wow! thats a huge price increase! nuts!!
How did you get the motor and trans to line back up when you put it back in
Its pretty tricky, getting the rotation angle and front to rear tilt just right, I ended up straddling the motor from the top rotating it to get the dowels to line up a bit, this is very ideally a 2 person job to get them to line up and get a bolt in, remember to switch your dowels over and get that SOB flex plate bellhousing thing lined up best you can.
i noticed that you have a jack holding the transmission up, what problems could happen if you do not have it held up the 6 or so inches by a jack and just let it sit on the under body frame and ends up 6-10 inches lower than you currently have it?
I'm sure it would be fine, just need to make sure the Torque converter is secured in place
2006 was not as bad ,but 2009 was few differences
What is the connector for that was that you spoke briefly about that you missed and didn't know was there . we did the same thing. Just wondering what purpose it has or the even the name of the connector.
02 two sensor connector
Hi what do you think about a 2007 dodge ram 5.7 hemu 4x4 mega cab with 235k miles is engine ready to die I wonder??
It really depends on how the engine\trans has been taken care of, oil\fluid changes, so many varibles but in theory it can last 1,000,000 miles, hope you get there! thanks for watchin!
@@Kingsoupturbo hi yes I bought the truck that I was inquiring earlier I love it kids love it. It's the mega cab so now there's more elbow room so as I inspected it. Only oil leak was the rear main seal. Engine sounds quiet. But i realized he has no catalyst yet he put a flow master but uts too loud. The long term fluctuates but is 17 at idle n has a lot of raw fuel smell I think the catalyst would help with that smell I wonder
@@victornaja7927 Nice! those trucks are huge in the back! no Cats eh? thats not good! mine had a fuel evaporation purge problem from the Tank and had the raw fuel smell as well, might be whats happening on yours!
@@Kingsoupturbo dear mr king so what does the dodge engine suppost to sound like. Standing up on top looking down its quiet steady rpms are 600 but I know it has an exhaust leak looking at gasket with black carbon. How ever this smooth sound comes from lower portion of the heads. Almost like the sound of a diesel truck but more more quiet. That's the best I describe. Should I be concerned just bought truck yesterday sound was the same but truck is to. Ice to pass for just bad engine if that be what it is. Csn you please gi e .e your two sense in that. Something about dodge engines being is it long roded engined
@@victornaja7927 Hey there, the Hemi should sounds pretty smooth, other then your exhaust manifold leak which is common with many trucks. Sometimes you can get noise from the lifters if its low on oil, or a long time since an oil change, or an issue. If there is a knocking noise you need to isolate where its coming from, which can be difficult. Check out some videos on how to use a mechanics stethescope to figure out there its coming from. I'd check out some videos as well on what the engine sounds like when its working perfectly, it should be pretty quiet!
How did you separate engine and trans??
What is the size of the engine mount bolt? The back nut?
How many hours to pull the motor?
Thanks Sid
Been working on mine for 2 days and I don't have any mechanical skills but the harness connectors kicked my butt
I havec2008 ram 1500 4x4 quad cab 5.7 hemi thinking about buying 6.1 and building another engine then swap
Might be worth it! I think a few bolts ons for the 5.7 and you wouldn't be missing the 6.1 that much!
Had mine rebuilt and the guy forgot to put the dipstick tube back in cause he couldnt find it. I bought one and was going to install but it looks like it goes behind the motor mount am I correct?
I think thats right! the motor and trans are already installed right? sometimes they are really hard to get in. Make sure its fully seated so it doesn't leak, I had a devil of a time with my F150
@@Kingsoupturbo yes engine and trans are in. This is going to be fun.
@@blackram6 Patience is the key! I rushed it and regreted on the F150, it was the craziest combination of twists, turns, a dark art to get it in, I hope your Dodge experience is way easier! good luck!
Looking at rebuiling my 06 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi.. Its shaking real bad and leaking oil like crazy... It runs just Makes a horrible sound... I had ran in through a dip of water and im not sure if i flooded the engine... But people have told me i blew a piston.. I already had the hemi tick already so i dont know hopefully i can get my engine fixed without buy awholw other one
It is also 4x4 ...
I'd check cylinder compression, check your oil to see if it has water in it. There are tests you can do to check for rod bearing failure too, places to listen etc. If the valve seat fell out like in mine, you'll get Zero compression in that cylinder! stop driving and find out whats wrong, it might not be to late to save the motor!
Did you have to discharge the ac!?
I was able to keep the system pressurized, although I slightly cracked one of the fittings on the compressor and had to rebulid it in the end, it is possible though, just a pain in the butt to keep it all out of the way during the engine swap.
thanks for the summary! did you video the new motor install?
I didn't! it went in easy enough, I had problems with sporatic misfires on cyl 1, turned out a valve had like gasket stuck to it and I had to pull the head. Still weird ECU misfire detection, had to clear the battery like 3 times before it dropped the codes and allowed spark in that cylinder. Quite a complex ECU the dodge has in it.
HOW MUCH WOULD YOU CHARGE SOMEONE TO PULL THIS OUT? SAME TRUCK AS IN YOUR VIDEO
Gosh, if someone was good at this job and had done it before? motor swap probably 600-1000$ Canadian, 4wd would cost more, bad donor engine (like I had, stuck valve) even more, so many variables in there.
Hey I have a 06 hemi with a bad knock when the truck is cold but after 10 mins when truck is fully warm knock is gone ...knock also will also disappear if you rev the engine......do you think main rain or crank bearing............
2nd question......what type of 5.7 can I interchange with my 5.7 hemi.....I also have a 2006 ram hemi 5.7 but 4x4 just wondering what other 5.7 are drop ins
Hey there, it sounds like connecting rod failure, its almost always rod and not crank mains that fail. I'd use a stethescope to make sure exactly where the problem is coming from, its very hard to tell sometimes. You might be able to get away with dropping the oil pan and replacing the rod bearings if there is no damage to the crank or rod ends. I am pretty sure it is only compatible with the MDS engines that were 06-08 i think was the year, a little bit extra expensive to find, likely a lot cheaper just repair the one you have now. Stop driving it immediatly and make sure its rod bearing failure, it might be repairable still for cheap.
Kingsoupturbo very much appreiciate the feedback...I will be testing with the stethoscope today to see if I can pin point where its coming from....thanks again and I'll update you with what I mysteriously find
Best of luck! googling it they always say, oh stuck lifter, piston slap, but sadly its often rod knock, but early detection can lead to a cheap repair! I've had to do this too many times, and wished I'd detected it right away, dropped the pan and replaced the rod bearings before it totally ruins the crank or puts a hole in the block, high five, be tough and get it done!
Kingsoupturbo I do agree the Google has to many internet mechanics that never touch these wrenches.....checked it out with stethoscope definitely coming from the bottom end....going to pull the pan and see if I can work around the front diff ( dam 4x4 ) ..enjoy your videos and thanks for the info...to all us with a wrench and bloody hand keep on wrenchin cheers
What if you can't turn the motor over to remove the tourqe converter bolts to the flywheel
Thats a good question! I'd imagine you have to take the oil pan off and pull off the offending bearings on the crank to get it to rotate short of cutting open the trans bellhousing and replacing it later. I think I've seen them on the internet pull the motor and trans, and put a huge breaker bar on the crank to get it to rotate and then get the converter bolts off on a semi siezed motor. I bet its no problem to pull the motor\trans as a single unit with the front rad crossmember removed, lots of room there!
How big of a engin lift do you need will a 1ton lift work
engine weighs around 600lbs I think, 1 ton should be fine but remember to be on the side of safety, even with a fancy hoist its scary having an engine high in the air like that!
Yell it will be my first engine swap lol so hopefully everything goes well the one thing that I worry about is all the wires lol
@@seannic66 The wires are no problem, Pro-tipe is to put a small piece of tape and label every single one, don't miss any. Also use little baggies to group and label all the bolts, the real mechanics all do this, its essential. It takes a lot more time to put it in, then take it out, so plan for that, nice to have a friend to help as well. Sometimes its eaiser to pull the transmission with the engine as well, the bellhousing bolts and flexplate are tough to align on this one, and get the wiring harness bracket on at the same time, I think I'd consider that if I did this again. Also nice to clean the engine before you pull it, powerwash it, scrub it, its worth it, careful organization will pay back 50x when you re-assemble it!
Yeah I'm picking up a 2006 1500 dodge ram quadcab with a thron rod and the guy got a replacement factory rebuilt engine with zero miles I'm getting it fir 2500
@@seannic66 Thats a good deal! hopefully its a matching MDS motor, take your time, label, videos, pictures, and you'll be fine! its people who rush stuff that it goes baaaad!
8mm bolts for intake manifold if I'm not mistaking.
How much did you charge for this?
so the valve seats just fall from over heating. Or is it common issue ?!
Apparnetly 2006-2008 they had not cleranced the valve seats tight enough, so if the engine overheated quite a bit, they just fall out. I googled it on the Charger\300c forums and tons of people had reported issues the same as this. Chrysler apparently tightned up the tolerances for the later motors, but a pretty silly way to destroy a motor isn't it?
Kingsoupturbo I wonder what issues the newer motors have now? any clues?
I think the last version of the Gen3 Hemi with variable valve timeing is pretty reliable! mostly its a very well built engine, metal head gaskets factory, huge valves and ports, and easy to work on, all cars have their various problems.
Kingsoupturbo
I wonder what issues the 2010-16 charger engines have besides that.
So what’s the difference from a 5.7 hemi 2wd vs 5.7 hemi 4wd engine?
Juan Carlos Gonzales the engines are the same as far as I understand.
They use different motor mount brackets. That's it.
you think the 8speed will fit in a 06-2010 hemi charger?
I"m sure you can make it fit, but likely it will have a different driveshaft, mounts, controller, probably not worth it, unless you can find a write up on the forums from someone else who has done the work. Changing an exactly same transmission to the same is a lot of work on its own
tell me about it i destroyed a stock motor trans and axle all with in 4 months of each other lol thanks man
How do you remove the dust cover
2017 Hemi engine it Will work on 2010 Ram sport 1500 ?
Not sure, I think they are the same, but I'd check a compatability index on dodge ram forums
@@Kingsoupturbo thank
Where can I get factory ram shop manual
Don't overheat your engine
How did you get the intake manifold off?
You turn the mounting bolts counterclockwise.
You're welcome.
how do you turn the crankcase
Theres no removable bottom plate on the trans., How do you get in to unbolt the flex plate from the converter?
Need this answer also
There is a dust cover on the front bottom area of the transmission facing the oil pan(which the oil pan sort of hides it ) , you just take that off and you can barely get to the converter bolts. The main thing that bugs me is there is almost no way to get a screw driver in there to turn the flex plate so you need a buddy to turn the engine with a socket on the crankshaft.
Thought this was a motor removal ,not a install
what sise of bolt go in the bell housing to ingine.
Ha! Try to remove the engine on the 4wd version, you,ll be there for hours trying to figure how to get it off, I'm currently in the process of removing my 5.7 Hemi on an 04 ram 1500 4wd
I bet its a lot harder! Take your time and label all the bolts! Best of luck!
So I am doing a motor swap on a 2008 1500 4x4 can't figure out where the ground wire on the rear of the heads attaches to
Mine was a bit of a mystery too, as I remember its a bolt down the passenger side of the body, just down the bellhousing, I think I ended up using a longer heavy gauge wire to make the connection as the factory one broke when I pulled the motor.
😂 funny both motors I pulled that happened to me I will probably just end up making one
that stock cable is kind of flimsy! just waiting to be replaced, I never did line up the fuel rail clip assembly that has the top bellhousing bolts hold it on, that was impossible for me! maybe you had better luck, hard!
if my motor is locked up how do I get the flex plate to unbolt if I can't rotate the crank
thats a tough one! I'd say you have to drop the oil pan and loosen off the crank cap bolts in order to turn that thing over and get at the bolts, pour some oil into the cylinders to soak and then big breaker bar works sometimes too if the pistons are rusted locked! good luck, sounds like a real pain in the butt!
I have the same problem... should be interesting to say the least
@@naturemom7846 just remove the engine with torque converter connected to the engine. Keep a jack under the trans and work the converter out then when u get the engine out you can get to the torque convert bolts.
@@Kingsoupturbo
I have a 2005 dodge 1500 5.7 hemi
I bought a 2004 4x4 Durango 5.7 hemi
Will that motor work it came out of a 4x4 and putting it in 2 wheel drive truck
@@richardnewburn4163 It should work? i think 2006+ was the MDS engines, there may be some different accessories and manifolds to change but the heads and block should all be the same. I did a Chevy 4.3 from a Blazer into an Astro van once, and there were a lot of different doo dads to change but the engines were pretty much the same! 2wd transmission is the same just without the 4wd parts.
Hello my car comrade from USA , i am from Russia ,I have the same great car ,and i saw that you are proffecional in cars ,and i have some probleme with my motor , what i mean , i have some pouring antifreeze from location between COMPRESSOR AIR CONDITIONING and generator ,i will be verey pleased if you give me some tips have a nice day .
Sounds like a leak from the intake manifold, I would pressure test the system to figure out where the leak is! (you can find out how to make cooling system leakdown testers on the internet) best of luck my friend!
u shoulda just changed piston n head instead of buy new motor n saved ugonna have same problems
The bore was scratched enough it would have taken a overbored and they don't sell overbore rings\piston for 1x, I still have the old motor though and time permitting can overbore the block and get a piston set, but its pricey, you're catching up on a used motor pretty fast at that point
lol your too funyyy
iv got a 2004 hemi 1500 got it all lose but motor doesnt want to pull .im not sure why iv got all bolts out and cherry picker just wont pull it .acts like something is holding it
Check out the ground cables on the back of the heads, they bolt to the firewall, that would be enough! Also the wiring harness clips to the back of the head and onto the Trans, that might be holding you up!
Ricky Latham Also if you left the exhaust manifolds bolted to the heads, they may catch a little on the frame when lifting. If manual trans, the pressure plate may snag up on the input of the transmission til ur forward enough
Its so easy that i did mine in 5 hours
Nice! thats hella fast! took me more like 50hrs total to get it all working right
What book did u use?
@@hemi255 NO BOOKS NEEDED .
@@tonyvtech25 what state u in?
Im in massachusetts