Fujifilm Camera Settings for Shooting Portraits
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2024
- *Error @2:07 I meant "ISO 4000" not "ISO 1/4000th of a second" STUPID STUPID! Forgive me.
A quick guide on how I set exposure and focus for general portraits. We discuss focus modes, exposure modes, and burritos. (gotta get you to click somehow).
Thanks for watching! Share your help in the comments
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Favorite Fuji Portrait Lens:
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Favorite all around Fuji Lens:
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Favorite tiny Street Photography lens:
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First time here? Hi, I'm Omar Gonzalez, a professional portrait and event photographer in the NYC/NJ area. On this channel, we talk cameras, lenses, and techniques to improve our photography.
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No 2 minute intro followed by a 5 minute introduction to the topic followed by a 1 minute request to like and subscribe followed by more yappin'. You got straight into it right to the point and hands on. Short and sweet, thank you! Thumbs up! (already a long time subscriber).
Amen!
Here is my shooting setup if anyone is interested. My approach to setting my camera settings is "set it and forget" as much as possible. I shoot with the Fujifilm X100F so I will include some notes specific to that camera. Hopefully someone finds this helpful :)
Be warned I had far too much free time on my hands today... expand at your own risk.
Aperture - Manually set to f2 for some bokeh with portraiture (wide open on the X100F) // f4 to f8 for group shots, environmental portraits, macro, landscapes etc. (to increase depth of field and sharpness) // for street photography I tend to use f8-f11 in good light along with zone focusing (expanded on below) and all the way down to f2 in low light with autofocus
SS - typically 1/125s for a subject that is not moving too much, standing still // up to 1/500s if there is movement or walking around // I tend to use the Auto ISO settings with A1 set to default to 1/125s and A3 set to default to 1/500s which means the camera will determine the SS automatically and default to the specified shutter speed (or faster) as long as there is enough light. If the camera hits the upper ISO limit set in the respective Auto ISO setting only then will it lower the SS below the specified speed. If I am shooting in challenging light conditions I may set the SS manually to guarantee that my images do not have motion blur. When shooting street I typically set the SS manually to anything from 1/500s to 1/2000s in good light and down to 1/125s in low light. Sometimes I get extra creative and slow my shutter speed way down to 1s to 1/15s for some purposefully blurry shots and move the camera around to introduce motion in the image which usually produces pretty abstract and dreamy results.
ISO - I typically leave my ISO on auto with the range set to 200 to 12800 for A1, A2, and A3 (the full native ISO range on the X100F). I personally don't mind the ISO noise produced by the Fuji X-Trans sensors and it looks somewhat like film grain to my eye. For personal and day to day photography I am comfortable shooting up to 12800 if it helps me get the shot. For client work I generally try to keep the ISO as low as possible but I'm generally comfortable with up to around 3200 (but I will go over if necessary - depends on the scenario).
Focus - My favorite focusing method is front button focus (like back button focus, just mapped to the front button) in the Manual focus mode. This allows me to set focus with a button that is separate from the shutter button meaning I can pre-focus and once I have my focus set I can snap away with the shutter button without the camera having to find focus for each shot (putting the camera into Manual focus mode is necessary for this to work because it decouples focusing from the shutter button). At closer ranges this is more effective if the subject is not changing distance with the camera. If my subject is not quite still or moving around I use face detection in either Continuous AF or Single AF modes, but I find Continuous face AF on the X100F to be a bit spotty, I'm sure it performs more reliably on the X-T3 and X-T30. If I am shooting street I use zone focusing in MF mode: I set my aperture to f8 or f11 if I have enough light and I set my focus to about 7ft for closer quarters and about 12ft for further away subjects, allowing me to point and snap quickly without having to get focus for each shot. I adjust the focus distance as necessary but generally try to shoot subjects at a consistent range so I don't need to constantly adjust the focus distance. I set the "depth of field scale" in the AF/MF settings menu to "film format" which shows a more flexible range for what is considered to be in focus on the manual focus scale, this helps me have an idea of what I can safely consider to be in focus when using zone focusing.
Exposure Compensation - Since I like to leave my SS and ISO on auto as often as possible I use the front command dial on the X100F to adjust my exposure compensation quickly without having to adjust my grip on the camera or pull it away from my eye (this can be done by setting the physical exp. comp. dial to "C").
Photometry - I use multi photometry because it tends to give me the most consistent results in dynamic lighting scenarios but when face detect is on and you are in either Cont. or Single AF mode it will automatically use the detected face to determine exposure instead of the selected photometry mode.
Manual Exposure / Auto-Exposure Lock - I use auto SS and ISO to save me the hassle of adjusting settings mid-shooting but sometimes if I find myself shooting in dynamic or challenging light (very high contrast scenes with bright highlights and dark shadows or ambient light levels changing rapidly) I may set my SS and ISO manually or use Auto-Exposure Lock (AEL) so that my exposure does not change drastically from shot to shot and I have more fine control. On the X100F you can either use the physical controls to set both SS and ISO or use the command dials. I prefer to use the physical dial for SS and the front command dial for manual ISO (can be switched between exp. comp. and ISO by clicking the command dial - note that in order for this to work "ISO Dial Setting (A)" in the button/dial settings menu needs to be set to "COMMAND"). When I do this I basically set and forget my shutter speed as long as it is appropriate for the given subject and I adjust exposure by directly adjusting the ISO with the same dial that normally controls Exp. Comp., allowing me to have virtually the same shooting experience as when I shoot with auto SS and auto ISO.
Drive Mode - For portraits I personally prefer to use Single shot and click the shutter repeatedly if I want several consecutive shots. Same for street and daily photography. If I am shooting the rare sports scene or need as many frames as possible in quick succession I may use the continuous drive modes.
White Balance - I use Auto White Balance (AWB) basically 99% of the time and I have my WB shift set to R:1 B:2 which produces a look that I personally enjoy. If you are a beginner don't worry about WB as it can usually be adjusted in post whether you are shooting JPEG or RAW with minimal penalty (of course adjusting colors / WB with RAW will give you more freedom but it can be done to JPEGs and you probably won't notice any issues with subtle adjustments). AWB on the Fujis works pretty well and pretty consistently in my experience.
Film Simulation Recipe - I personally use Classic Chrome for 99% of what I shoot with the following adjustments: Highlights +1, Shadows +0, Color +4, Sharpness -1, and Noise Reduction -4. This is completely up to personal preference and if you shoot with a Fuji I recommend you experiment and see what combination of film sim. and settings looks best to you. I love Classic Chrome because the colors look very pleasing to me and the skin tones are fantastic.
JPEG vs RAW - Ok so I used to shoot with a Sony a6500 and I exclusively shot RAW and spent ages editing my files. The results after editing were usually pretty good but the time it took to get there began to make me not enjoy digital photography and I ended up shooting a lot of film for fun and digital only when I would run out of film or needed to share the photos quickly. Ever since I got the Fuji X100F (I plan on replacing my Sony system with an X-T3 system soon) I stopped shooting film or with my Sony (which has arguably better AF and somewhat better IQ with the Sigma 30mm 1.4) and I now exclusively shoot with my Fuji because of the film simulations (and the increased enjoyment of using a Fuji ;). For this reason I have found that although I shoot in RAW + JPEG mode I almost never touch the RAW files at all because the colors and tones from the Fuji JPEGs are so beautiful and very easy to quickly edit to my liking. I still shoot RAW as a safety net and sometimes it is necessary to recover highlight and shadow details in high contrast scenes but even then I would rather use the JPEGs if I could. I hope to one day be confident enough to shoot JPEG exclusively and save space on all those RAW files. With that said the Fuji RAW files are very malleable and a lot of highlight and shadow detail can be effectively recovered, and you get all the typical benefits of RAW as you would with any other camera.
Lastly this only applies to the X100 series and X-Pro Series which come equipped with a very nifty hybrid optical/electronic viewfinder. I personally use the optical viewfinder where possible because it allows me to see a scene without any lag, delay, or shutter blackout which is especially useful for street or fast paced subjects. Additionally the OVF gives you a somewhat wider field of view (I believe it is roughly a 19mm APS-C FOV or 28mm FF equiv FOV) than the 23mm lens (35mm FF equiv) sees so you are able to see outside of the actual frame that will be captured allowing you to see a potential subject before they even enter the frame as well as find compositions that you might not otherwise notice when looking through just the EVF. With that said the OVF will not let you see your exposure (unless you use the tiny optional EVF projection in the corner which is not my cup of tea) and the OVF suffers from parallax because it is not lined up perfectly with the lens as it is a rangefinder style camera. The X100F does show you framelines to correct for parallax issues and it works well at greater distances but once your subject/focus point is closer to the camera the framing is not as precise. Furthermore with close-up subjects you cannot preview what is in focus with the OVF so my personal approach is to use the OVF for street photography and when my subjects are further away and in lighting conditions where I am confident the camera will get the right exposure without adjustment and I use the EVF for close up shooting and any time where I need to actively monitor and adjust the exposure or depth of field.
Hey if you actually got this far let me know if you had any thoughts, tips, suggestions, or if you found this helpful at all and thanks for reading. Happy shooting :)
What an underrated comment, for a beginner this helps a lot, thank you!
This is really good, thanks!
This is really awesome. Thank you for so much of your input!!
@@ImAwesomeAli . Awesome !!!! I have a Fuji X100 T and a XT-30, will use your settings !!! Thanks a lot !!!
Excellent video explaining your thinking. Honestly, probably the best I've seen on the subject. So hands on!
I agree
Ever since I followed your channel Omar, I've learned alot about my Fuji since I also use the XT20. Thank you for providing funny, entertaining and educational videos!
Such a great, easy to understand video, like all your others. I first got my X-T20 about 6 weeks ago, and have watched a load of your videos. You're a natural teacher. And funny. Please keep the Fuji videos coming!
just wanted to drop by and say thank you for all the fuji videos you've been making! It really helped me a lot when I got my first fujifilm camera which is the XT-20. :D great job man, keep it up! :D
Loving these setup videos with a Fuji! Very helpful and simple yet detailed explanations. Thanks a ton man! I've been shooting since a few years as a side hustle but only in a few genres and one thing I always enjoy I coming back to tutorials of the basics. It's amazing how there's always something new to learn.
Another winner Omar. The basics explained in a simple, understandable way, no techno jargon. Oh, and as an aside, if the photographer thing doesn’t work out, consider hand modelling. So dexterous!
Now do a video for street photography settings, please.
It's done I guess.
Aperture priority f5.6 to f8. Auto ISO either 1600 or 3200.
Great video.... Whats your favorite film simulation for portrait... Thanks
As a recent convert to the Fujifilm system, this is golden content! thanks.
Thank you for the video on shooting portraits with the Fujifilm camera. This video was what I needed for shooting portraits. Your videos are always entertaining and informational. Keep up the excellent work!
A couple days ago I shot exactly the way you described without seeing this video when I had one chance to get the shot. Before going into the dimly lit shoe repair shop I set my aperture on my FX27 to 2.8 and ISO at 500 with zone focusing and face auto detect on in low burst shooting. I asked if I could take the portrait, stood back, composed the shot, and three shots fired at 1/59 of a second. Perfect exposures, lots of eye twinkle and a great portrait all in all. I got lucky perhaps with such a slow shutter speed but the images are very sharp and having other great Fujinon portrait lenses I have to say the xf27 is an impressive portrait lens in its own right.
I like to think what I did was just practicing common sense considering the features provided but it takes time to ask oneself the right questions and have the answers reflected in your settings before the moment happens.
That’s my story but the bottom line is, I feel validated by the information in your video, thanks.
This is so great to hear! Glad you got the shot With my coffee shakes I would've been at 1600 ISO! Lol thanks for sharing!
Ha ha...
great video! on my xh1, I use my front dial as my ISO and my back dial as my shutter speed. I always set my aperture first, followed by shutter speed and then fine tune the ISO using the histogram. its super fast to do once you have it all down packed. but then again, I dont use AF since all my lenses are manual for now.
Yessss!!! Omar thanks for the advice!! Totally saved my image quality!!!!
Just very clear and with the exact information needed to take better pictures. Excellent!!!
Hi Omar! This is a pretty old video and i am sure so many things are changed on the menus of Fujifilm cameras with lots of firmware updates since you made it. But the main approach is same and usually the orders of the menus are identical or very similar on different models of Fuji cameras, at least for the identical features. What i notice when i watch this video is that shutter speed is continuously shown on the LCD screen and viewfinder. I guess the camera is X-T3. But when i checked on my X-T5 still it's same, shutter speed is continuously on the screen but we lock it by half pressing the shutter. However, i need to half press the shutter on my X-T50 camera for seeing the shutter speed on the screen and viewfinder, when i stop half pressing the shutter speed disappears again. I don't know is it about at a setting in the cameras but i searched a lot and couldn't find anything for making the shutter speed appears on the screen continuously. I prefer to see the shutter speed independent than half pressing the shutter, like how it's on X-T5. Do you know is it about a setting ot is it just how it's on the X-Tx and X-Txx lines? Thanks in advance.
Anyone has had problems with face detection on x-t20 ? Back from a trip where my x-t20 has left me in the dust several times shooting portraits. The thing with portraits is you have to be quick because your models loose interest fast. It's not like when you are doing landscapes. But what to do quick when the camera refuses to detect faces even when the conditions weren't bad ?
Very good video Omar, as always. A fan from Spain
In that kind of scenario I wouldn't go face detection. With the XT30 or xt3 yes. In your subject is still in good light it should work.
Omar you are to good buddy. Giving wonderful tricks and support for photographers. Excellent buddy !!!!
Omar, one of your best. Really helpful.
Thank You Omar!! Always learning from your videos !
Thanks Omar for your great tutorials !!!
Thanks so much for this. Getting my T2 tomorrow and this will help immensely 👌
This was really good video. Very straightforward. More video like these. Greetings from Finland
Omar, just wanted to say thanks for your UA-cam videos in general. You are a very good communicator. Lately I have been watching your videos on Canon and Fujifim equipment. In, particular a shout out for this 2019 video on Fuji settings for shooting portraits. Short but sweet! Currently I have a Fuji XE1 and a 18-55 zoom lens and primarily focus on portrait photography. I live in Australia. My dream is to upgrade my camera to a XE3 or XT3 and try a prime lens like the 35mm F2 or the 50mm F2.
Definitely need a video about street photography! Thx for the good works Omar!
One of your best tutorials! And all of your videos have been great but this one is A+++! Have learned so much from your videos. After your last one, the S**y video, was terrified that you were going to the dark side. Keep up the great Fujifilm work Luke Skywalker!
Omar I moved to fujifilm xt4 from Nikon DSLR family by watching your videos :) Now since I am an amateur to Fuji systems, I would like to see these kind of AUtofocus/settings/modes videos for XT4 moreover its been 3 years since you made a tutorial on those, hence why not refresh us with this new camera :)
Very good videos for beginners like me! Keep it up!!
Thank u very much. I learned a lot from your photography skills.
I really like the maximum auto ISO setting. Can leave ISO on Auto, and set it to maximum 1600, and only if I see that this is not enough and there is no other way - I set it to 3200 manually.
This was great! I use some functions differently so I can switch to and adjust video mode as fast as possible. I know you don't really use the xt2/3 that much for movies since you have the xt20, but I would be interested in knowing the rest of your layout to/when switching to video mode.
New video!? Lol. Basically it then becomes Shutter priority. 1/50th. Auto iso in this case....with Aperture set wide open or closed down.
@@ogonzilla Thanks. I was referring more to the function buttons and layout to quickly switch from photo to video mode since it will not keep/store those settings separately. it's all good though. Got it! :)
One thing I like to do and I don't see people making,
TL;DR : Use Bracketing speed to try super slow exposition with low ISO at the same time than super fast Shutter speed with much higher ISO.
You get the best of both worlds, clear image if subject moves,
clearer image with fast shutter if things are moving.
Is FIXING the ISO, and having the Shutter Speed in +- 1, or +- 2/3 Ev in Bracket mode so that the brightest shot will be at +0 exposition.
What this does, is it tries to capture 1 photo at the lowest ISO possible ( 200 inside during day, 1600-3200 inside at night)
but that bright photo will be Super Slow! (1/30, 1/60 )
Then there will be 2 more photos, one at about -1 exposition but twice the speed, (1/60 or 1/ 120)
And finally, one really underexposed, but super fast! ( 1/120 or 1/200 ).
And since we get pretty much Noise Invariance, then we don't lose any quality doing that. :)
( Noise Invariance example : ua-cam.com/video/_5LFfQADiWI/v-deo.html )
Great suggestion, never thought to try that but will give it a shot this evening
Would this method work on other cameras ( in my case Sony a7 iii ) ?
@@adams.555 This works on most cameras, google noise invariance with your camera model and you'll find the results
It changes from model to model, but 95% of recent cameras have almost 0 losses when shooting underexposed in RAW then bringing it up :)
... Actually, there's Stages of ISO quality, for mine it's 200, 800 and 3200 I think,
But basically, shooting at -2 exp is Ok, -5 and you'll lose some quality
ludovic migneault
I gotta say that reading comments after watching this sort of videos is often a great addition in gaining important knowledge,specially for a newbie like me.
So thank you for sharing
If you are doing a stationary, posed portrait 1/60 is nice. It softens the eyes and overall look without any blur.
I usually mimic this kind of effect in post with like -10 clarity but it depends
nice video with helpful istructions.
i was watching a lot of your videos and i like them very much. very much informations but also very entertaining / funny. i like this alot.
so i finally bought a fujifilm camera ( love it) and also a think tank bag (love it too. very nice bag).
so i will say thank you to you for your nice, entertaining and helpful videos and inspirations.
greetings from germany :-) Chris
You're welcome!
Omar, Thanks for all the Videos in the last 2 years, enjoyed and learned a lot. Congrats on the Sony recognition, you deserve it, I hope Fuji will someday notice and offer the same or more.
I have a question regarding the Samyang 12mm vs the new Fuji 16mm 2.8, for the price point which would you prefer?
Hello, Please explain more about Wb Shift for portraits
Hey Omar,
nice video as always! ☺️👍🏼
Can you please do a Custom Settings Video! I would love to have some Custom Settings for Portraits, one for Landscape, one for Streeet, one black and white so with the different film simulations, the tones, colour, sharpness. I am struggeling to do my know and sometimes would love to use the jpegs without editing in different situations. Haven‘t found a good video on youtube yet.
Thank you so much and greetings from Germany!!! :)
Yeah! This is in the works as I have been tweaking settings myself!!
xElliBelli Check out Kevin Mullins settings for the x series. It may also be of help to you. Bitte schön.
Overall a good explanation and I definitely want to try the back button focus with manual tweaking with the focus ring. However, it was a bit confusing towards the end when you talk about a moving subject. Wouldn't you want to use something like a burst with tracking auto focus to ensure you get the shot?
Love it got a new techniques thanks again omar you always nailed it.
So not sure if it is the just xt1 or my camera, but I cant unlock the ISO Dial, I have to hold the button down to turn it unlike the Shutter that is free until i hit the "A", is that the way xt1 was designed?
Thanks for sharing.... When shooting jpeg.. Which fujifilm simulation would you use for portrait... Thanks
Late to this video. Great. Very informative👍
As a relative beginner, this is quite overwhelming at times. But also exciting
I wish I could like this a million times. Fantastic information. Thank you Omar!
Appreciate that!
simple but straight to the points.
Awsome video. Great info
i appreciate your insights. thank you for the effort and the sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
Have you switched to Fuji completely now? Well done!
Wow a Fuji Video. I thought this was a Sony channel. 😂. I’m just playing with you. I have the x-T30 with using a hand strap, and I have never used the x-T20. I still haven’t hit the button on the mountain. So for new users its not a problem at all.
Good to hear!
Great video! I just got an XT1 and am still working on configuring to my liking. What about film simulations? Do you use them and recommend the best one you've used for portraits?
Astia soft or standard provia. New video?
Do you have any thoughts about Fujifilm X-A20? And possibly do a review.
really useful, well done man
Well explained . Thank you for sharing your Knowledge!
do you shoot portraits wide open with the 56mm f1.2?
Yes!! Then having mechanical shutter + electronic shutter is important as the highest mechanical shutter (1/4000 on the XT20) can't control the light with 1.2 it's too much light. So the electronic shutter kicks in with crazy speeds.
Nice video, thnx. Your channel is very helpfull. I have a X-T20. Can you explane why eye detection not works but it is on the camera. Sometimes I can select it and sometimes not. I don't understand why or when I can use it.
Omar is any chance to give an extras to this video about light meter..?
Always helpful - thanks for sharing!
Exactly, auto-iso : never
As I already said in a previous video, the X-E3 (i don't know if same with X-T3 ) is perfect with the 2 dials in manual except for autofocus, front for iso and back for my speed, a perfect ergonomy for portraits in particular or others.
Good video Omar, well done.
Thank you so much for informative video. Very helpful.
QQ - How do you get that green line to make sure our photos are straight ?
Never mind got the answer with electronic level setting in custom Disp Setting.
Shooting in manual is not that hard you know
If aputure is important, set it to the lowest, then always set iso to its lowest, then change the shutter speed untill the picture is exposed. ((Only for pictures))
If shutter speed is more inportant, set it to either double your frame rate for videos or double or triple your focal length for photos. The keep the aputure at its lowest then adjust the iso until its exposed
Btw im not talking to you im talking to pll watch this video. Not saying you dont know this
How clear was that? Thankyou Omar!
Thank You! May I suggest a theme for the next episode: live shooting unexpectedly moving targets like kids with X-T3 (Sorry, it sounds bad!) How does eye/face detection manage that IRL?
Sony is far ahead with this focus thing, sigh 😕
From my tests it was pretty good. Just set the camera to high continuous with zone focus and face detection. If the camera doesn't see a face it will default to center zone.
I'm having trouble uploading videos from my Fujifilm XA3. I normally use the fujifilm app but it just doesn't work on my Android phone as it has this error message saying that it's not supported. Help please?
Very useful video. Thanks Omar :)
What would be the best setting for capturing artwork?
Please Omar help me out. Getting torn between two choices. Should I buy the xt20 or the xt30? (The 18-55 2.8 package) Coming from a smartphone and don't plan on making videos. Do I miss out buying the xt20? Or for the price difference go with the xt20 and get an extra lens? Thank you so much for all your videos!
simple and clear! thank you Omar
Hey omar can you make a video for your best video setting on xt4
Excellent vidéo , just a question why are you using Mechanical and electronic shutter at the same time.
great video, very informative!
Hey, i have one xt100 and really can’t figure out iso and shutter settings. Can you please help. Love from india!
Another great video, but I'm under the impression that a lot of lenses aren't at their sharpest wide open, and if stopped down a bit they're much sharper and you still get wonderful bokeh. I've got the 56mm f/1.2, 23mm f/2, 35 f/2 and soon the 50mm f/2; do you know what aperture these lenses are at their sharpest or would you shoot wide open on all of them anyway?
i don't have any of these yet, but from guys's review: 23mm f2 is sharpest at F5.6ish and has a bit soft edges on the subject while on F2. 35mm is pretty sharp at F2.
35f2 is damn sharp no need to step down, for the 35f1.4 wide open is slightly soft but nice for portrait at night but step down a bit for more sharpness and contrast by day for the 56f1.2 it’s the same story (own or owned those 3)
If you have them all, just shoot them at various apertures and it will be easy to see where they're sharpest.
Camera Buff sometimes sharpness is just irrelevant especially with Fuji there is almost no chromatic aberration and very sharp wide to close so you can care about other factors 😉
How is the 35mm f2 compared to the 23mm f2? I know you sold the latter due to hazy close focus but doesn’t the 35 suffer the same? Or perhaps 35 is just your preferred focal length? Thanks
My 35 doesn't suffer from the same. And from some comments it seems there are some better copies of the 23 out there that don't haze
That’s interesting, thanks for the reply. I have a Nikon D7200 but I’m really tempted by the xt2 with trade in bonus. Watched a lot of your videos while trying to decide!
Thanks for all your efforts. I woud like to ask one question about shadow settings in camera. So let say I shoot indoors very low light with x100f and want to preserve shadows so I can recover the them later in lightroom as much is possible. Shoud I put shadows in - or +? Talking about jpgs...
Just a question, with these same settings, the I can only see the shutter speed once I half press the release and lock exposure, what's the setting to change that?
Hi. I'm a beginner and using xt2 + 18-55mm lens kit. Is this gonna work the same for it? 😁
I changed the ISO dial to the front dial as my right hand is always there. It is much easier to change the setting while taking photo
Hi, I wanted to get some settings so I can use this camera for recording phone screens. The normal settings seem to not stay focused on the screen
Found the explanation of manual focus a little difficult to follow. May be me- but I still use film manual focus cameras- rangefinder split screen focussing has yet to be bettered!
I found the manual focus a little confusing too.
What metering mode .. Looks like spot . As always great video.
Great video bro
THere are all kinds of Canon users showing how to take "self portraits" (I definitely don't mean selfies). Would you consider doing a video but using Fujifilm?
Best tutorial !!
How did you get the line in the middle of the camera?
Love watching your videos. I'm using xt30+35mm and viltrox85mm. dream to get wider lens soon. No money now haha
Well presented !!! Thats exactly my settings on my xt2 and the only point extra i add to my camera is that i set a min and max shutter speed in the camera menu so that the camera does not go slower than 1/80th of a second when im in auto shutter mode.
So far, I haven’t seen any way to limit the lowest auto-shutter speed on my Fuji like one can do with ISO. Is there any way to do this?
In low light, why not change the from f2 to f2.8 or higher? Better to lose some depth of field than have a grainy picture due to increasing ISO.
In low light you need to open that aperture to max so more light get in the sensor hence increasing your shutter speed so that any shakes you (or the subject does) won't blurr your final image. Yes, the picture might get a bit grainy depending on how high your iso is but at least it won't be blurred. Unless you're shooting on a tripod and/or want perhaps take some light trails pictures yes increase your f number. I personally rather have a bit of noise in my pictures (which can add some character to it or can also be easily removed in post) than to have a blurry one.
Hello I want to change camera from Canon to Fujifilm but what color o how setup like the color in fuji camera?
Micro Doulo 20 year Canon shooter that just moved to Fuji here - the Fuji will just have better color science overall in all situations. Just go for it. You won’t be sorry.
Hello, I have always used a DSLR and I just switched to the FujiFilm XT30. I take children’s fashion photography and I have no idea how to set up manual mode for what I’m doing. I understand Aperture priority mode however, I do still need to get a good shutter speed because I work with children who are always moving & I would like to capture them in motion without the blur. It’s very frustrating and the screen is dark no matter my ISO or aperture setting. Can someone please help me. I’m not sure what to do.
What about the metering mode. I can see you set it to spot. Ever tried the centre-weighted?
Thanks 😊
Hey Omar, great work! But why not simply in M with Auto-ISO, ie you control aperture and shutter speed and let the camera take care of ISO? Regarding AF: why not AF-C with BBF all the time (like on DSLRs)?
I have mine set to AF-C without Back Button Focus. Instead i activate or deactivate face/eye priority via my af-L button and use the front button for focus lock.
So you have continous Focus on your shutter and can lock it in cases you want pre focus. Works way more comfortable for me.
Great video
Great video. Thanks.
I use x-a7 but i think the color skin its not good , how can i manual adjust?
Very helpful! 🙏
This is super helpful! Honestly, it's the best one I've seen. Thank you! x
really helpful, thanks!
How can I get my Sony XT4 to snap a photo even if it is not in focus?