Glad you used protection especially the respirator for the tolulene. It is a bad neurotoxin. I have issues from breathing it heavily in the 1960s before OSHA here in the US. Stay safe and if you ask me I would toss the tolulene and not ever use it again.
toluene is industrial strength nail polish remover! Extremely toxic . The only time I've had to use it was in a lab in small quantities with safety glasses and gloves and in a fully enclosed extraction fan fume cupboard so I find it hard to imagine using it for 4 days in a "bunny suit" and respirator.
Industrial chemicals are wicked. I worked in a finishing shop and the people there would wash up with acetone. I asked them, "What the hell are you doing?" They just said it was fine, we've been doing it for years. I told them they were very uninformed!!!
Ah, the seat stop. I remember back when I learned to fly (late 80s) there was a Cessna 150 with a sticky seat lever. And once on takeoff it went sliding back with a vengeance. And what do you have your hand on when that happens? That's right, the yoke. My instructor was quick to push the yoke forward and I let go.
I really like the stripped down look in the interior. I think the utilitarian look is good on an older model. I also really like the fastback look. I had my first lesson this week in a 172P, but I think yours looks much cooler. In fact I think your videos gave me the push to start learning, which is something that's been on the to-do list for many years!
Best of luck with your training! There are lots of friendly pilots out there, so don't hesitate to ask whenever you have questions or experience challenges in your training/flying! :-)
If you are still in need of a spinner, I found them at Wag-Aero for $400 for the spinner and backing plate brand new. I needed one for my 1956 172 with the o-300 and McCauley prop. I believe it is the same part as your plane. Looking forward to watching the work on your plane. I've owned mine for about 15 years and just love it.
Toluene is definitely nasty stuff, good call with the bunny suit and respirator. That said, paired with some elbow grease it made the interior look amazing! Can't wait to see more of this project, even as someone who knows next to nothing about aviation.
One trick I learned recently was to use dry ice to remove asphalt sound deadening from cars. May work on aluminum too. The dry ice freezes the asphalt to a point where it becomes brittle and can be scraped off.
Since your last vid, I passed my PPL checkride! Love seeing the progress and the plan of attack for working on this plane, I hope to do something similar and find my own project airplane to tackle.
I like to tell Glenn that there is something really nice about him doing it in installments and also how he does everything in real time. I'm a pilot that's kind of thinking about aircraft ownership and I enjoy seeing what the insides of them look like strip down, and the advice he has and especially the first and second episode watching The mechanic actually do a pre-buy inspection instead of something that is on slides or time lapse. It was really enjoyable for once
Oof, your comment about things stretching out really hit home! I've been working to paint my Homebuilt off and on all year; with only 1-2 hours available each session it really does take a long time!
Love your content. I started on your latest one and now have started from the beginning. I can imagine the planes flying past is such great motivation! Great channel. Thanks!
I popped over from your cooking site to see what kind of airplane you bought ~ nice! I won the 1995 AOPA sweepstakes and it was the first Cessna 172 out of the new factory in Independence, Kansas. What a thrill to go there and to have an airplane of my own! I see you’re having fun making it air-worthy. May you have much luck and happiness with it. Visit me down here in San Jose, CA someday💁🏼♀️👍🏼
About the two seat rail stops…. The first one you removed is a Saf-T-Stop that is meant to be slid forward and tightened after you have adjusted your seat in the flying position. This keeps the seat from sliding back during flight. People have stalled on takeoff and died because the seat slid back and the pilot grabbed the yoke. Then when you want to get out of the plane you loosen it and slide it back. I’ve spoken to the creator of this stop about the plastic handle that breaks. He has changed the design and you can buy the new design at Aircraft Spruce. The second one you removed is just a simple piece to keep you from sliding the seat back too far which would allow you to pop the seat off the rail. There should be one of those at the front of the seat rail too in order to keep you from sliding the seat too far forward. Great video by the way…. Keep them coming!
There is another of the little clips at the front of the rail. I think we'll be replacing the Saf-T-Stop will be replaced with the Cessna inertia reel system... I'm getting too old to reach back and tighten / loosen the Saf-T-Stop.
I have loved your cooking channel for some time, and I love this content as well! I hope you’ll be making more videos when all is legal to fly this plane! Becoming a pilot is something I aspire to be one day as well, so this is the content am totally in for!
I really enjoy watching this project, Glen. Brings back many memories over the years. I'm glad you found this and are using it to get intimate with _your_ bird and getting back into the air for fun and adventures eventually. I spent a lot of time crawling through my Skylane and pulling the interior for annuals when I could. I did most of my oil changes and knew everything in front of the firewall intimately. It makes a huge difference when flying. I did my intro flight in a 1977 152 in Dec, 1980. The majority of my training and early flying was in '77 and '80 Skyhawks. I never used a headset until I got back to flying in 2002. I remember how chaotic it was trying to understand the radio traffic through the overhead speaker and using the mics. Headsets and push to talk were very exciting!
I was talking to the screen when you were fighting with the C clips lol... There is a tool for it but a shop rag works just as well to get the clip out, less chance of marring the panel.
Glen, Thank you for taking the time to read through the comments and answer questions ( sometimes repeatedly). There are far too many channels that ask for comments and questions and then only respond with, "Hi. Thank you for watching."
The moment I saw you messing with the door latch my mind went back to that C clip tool I used with my older cars. As for the sounds in an aircraft, the chief pilot from my old FBO came from the old school. No headsets. He wanted to hear very nuance of the sounds coming from the engine. Least to say he, after many years of flying he had lost most of his hearing. I have used David Clark's most of my time in flying but everyone seems to have switched to Bose. Don't think I'll invest in any new headsets since I seldom fly today.
I'd definitely put some of the green corrosion protection on the inside, especially if you're gonna paint it anyway. I've seen aluminium corrode so fast, even in a hangared aircraft.
Hey glen! I know nothing about planes but came over from “glen and friends.” very much enjoying experiencing the journey with you! Love the stripped down interior.
Such a clean, spartan hangar! Its obviously new-to-you... :-D Trust me, its easier to keep on top of it by cleaning a bit each time than to let it get dirty and have to seriously clean it all out! I learned the hard way by getting a hangar a couple of years before my homebuilt was done, and only visiting it once every couple of months... Bugs and blown-in dirt don't stop when you aren't there. ;-)
Great series of videos. When I used to build rally cars we found that removing the roof lining meant a lot of condensation would form on the cold metal when it was left overnight. This condensation could then run down the pillars and could cause problems with electrics. I realise that you will be using ANR headsets and I'm interested to see whether the removal of the sound deadening panels and trim will result in a big noise level increase (drumming) that proves tiring. 40 years ago we didn't have ANR technology...
The black petroleum stuff if best removed by putting dry ice on it, until it all freezes then hitting with a plastic mallet, and it'll just shatter off
Wait, what? You not only cook and bake, but you're also a hobbyist airplane owner! I have no desire or financial means to own, repair or fly a plane, but I'll subscribe for learning about something I have no idea about. 😊
Seeing your headliner removed causes me to think you might want to review Cessna service letter SE69-26 dealing with fuel vent system modifications to prevent possible vapor lock. SE72-7 provides more detail. I was able to find salvaged parts to modify my 172B.
I did lots of that for CP and AC in overhaul. Instead of a metal scraper, use a plastic, ceramic or micarta scraper to get the big stuff and red or grey scotchbright soaked in toluene or mek to remove the glue. leaves much less damage from scrape marks on the metal.
You should always take a look in your manual and parts book… gives a lot info of how to remove or what is inside…. I removed all the insulation too… I don’t have a baggage door thought …
Any thoughts on doing a update video of your interior finished? For those of us looking to do a utility interior on our 1950s era air aircraft your end result is very clean. Would love detail on your wing root area as well as an overall look at what you did and how it turned out.
With as many people doing Cessna interior mods as there is, I feel like that content would get you a lot of traction well at the same time showing some of us how a good interior project could be completed and be both functional and aesthetically pleasing.
There is another paint stripper called ST-7. It is an epoxy paint remover. Thick like what you used. The black stuff is probably Par-Al-keytone used for corrosion protection. Once stripped you will want to use acid etch and aluminum chromate prior to paint.
The door handle issue reminded me of older cars where the answer to getting door handle off was to press the trim towards the door. the exposed the pin that held handle on the square peg. push pin through, pull handle off peg and the circular trim is free. If only Cessna had taken advice from British car manufacturers...
I know it’s old but those old school crank clips pop right out if you slip a rag around it on the open end of the clip and pull the rag back and forth and the clip will pop out enough to remove the crank… Then fully reinstall the clip to reinstall it and just pop it on because the crankshaft is ramped
As an ex Aircraft Weights Engineer I'd definitely suggest getting a new weighing done. It's not worth calculating weight and location on a set of numbers that are so old. Rubber matting, look around at different ones, comparing dencities might save you a couple of lbs. Lastly, put a steady under the tail. You don't want your aircraft to tip if you are inside it and the only ine in the hanger. Excellent work btw.
You could look into logging your time working on the plane and ask your mechanic to sign off on it periodically. You might eventually end with with enough hours to go for you A&P. Particularly if you end up building a kit plane. (Assuming the Canadian system is similar to the US system)
I am stripping the paint on my airplane right now, and do yourself a favor and use Stewart Systems E3000 EkoStrip. It is an environmentally safe paint stripper that can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on your painted surface. It's not solvent borne and does not dry out and stop working overnight. In most cases the stripping action will take place in 2-4 hours. EkoStrip has no harsh odors, is not caustic and is biodegradable. Best part is it actually works as well as the solvent versions or better, and doesn't eat through nitrile gloves.
Keep you eyes out for episode #5 - I just finished the job of stripping and tried the EkoStrip Vs. two other solvent based strippers. No spoilers, on what happened just yet.
I love these episodes. You were talking about the lack of insulation between the interior side panels and the skin of the aircraft. Can you put insulation in between the interior side panels and the skin of the aircraft? Typical fiberglass insulation from a home improvement store? Spray in insulation that car restorers use? Dynamat sound deadening material, which is really meant for the floors. It does more to muffle the noise rather than insulate.
Toluene (tol-u-ene) is an organic solvent, that occurs in nature. It is clear and colorless, but has a distinctive odor. It also occurs in pine pitch and tar, crude oil and lighter petroleum distillates, like naptha or gasoline (there's about 5% toluene in some gasoline blends). It's common chemical formula is C5H5-CH3, also known as methylbenzene (or C6H8 in the IUPAC [International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry] formalism) or toluol (since it was first isolated from the balsa of Tolu or other pine trees that have a light weight per cubic foot of wood [e.g., "balsa wood"]). It's the compound that gives the "glue-sniffer's high" from building plastic models in a space with little ventillation. Consider it to be a neurotoxin (or intoxicant) and wear a respirator in anything other than a very well-ventillated area with high airflow. This organic compound is used in paint strippers, adhesives (like contact cements) and as a solvent for specific chemical reactions (I've used it for that purpose, but in a high airflow chemical fume hood inside closed glass vessels). I agree with what you are doing. Keep the documentation and the parts, but prep for what is done for today's situations. Don't try for a museum-quality piece, unless that's your objective. Since it flys, let's keep it flying!!!
You could probably eBay those seats, if you want to unload them and get some new seats. If the shipping to Taiwan would not be more than the seats, I would make you an offer. I am jealous. Good on you, mate.
I need to hang on to the seat frames to recover them. I'd love to get frames that have a higher back from a later model 172, but there are so many other things higher on the to-do list.
TOL-you-een. I have my undergrad degree in chemistry. I'm surprised you can still get the stuff over the counter. Nasty to your lungs kidneys and liver. But still just a cyclic hydrocarbon sometimes found in things like gasoline which you can also buy.
I hear doing weight and balance sooooooo much I just received my A&P license last Saturday here in the states one thing you didn’t say about the things you removed is you need to note down the distance from the datum to do the weight and balance
I would also mention that you can’t use certain chemicals or tools bc it will cause corrosion or remove the protective layer on the metal one of the planes at the school I went to for my license was there bc it was sand blasted to remove the paint and that caused the aircraft to be no longer air worthy without being completely reskinned bc the protective layer on the aluminum was gone so the insurance company totaled it and donated it for us
I noted the distance - just didn't think to say it as a separate task. My AME is helping me in the background with the correct advice on chemicals etc.
Can you use the old headliner as a template to create a new headliner? You could probably make one piece of masonite that could be prefit to the ceiling and then glue the fabric or leather to the masonite. Im assuming that the side panels already have a piece or wood or masonite that can be reused and recovered.
Hey @Gilbert Swain where are you located? Based on my research (and tearing this plane apart) it seems this plane was rebuilt in 90s and has parts from other planes on it. If the paint scheme is the same - was your plane ever at Leggat Aviation for repairs?
The easiest way to remove the door handle (when you don't have the proper tool) is to wrap a rag around the post and pull it around it. The end of the clip will get imbedded in the rag and pop it right off.
Too late now, but you can go by auto part stores and buy a tool that slides behind the door handle and pops the clip off for you. Really cheap. Those are used on window crank handles on cars too.
I am here for all these airplane videos! Very satisfying when you too everything out! Its going to look fantastic! Can’t wait for high altitude footage and plane noises! Do you know what color or colors you want it to be?
Hey I got a 1961 172B and wouldn’t mind seeing what parts you plan to sell or dispose of. I’m in Saskatchewan. Shoot me a pm before you toss anything! Please!
If you are concerned about noise with all of the old insulation removed, maybe look at the modern materials like Dynamat or Kilmat? It is usually self-adhesive, unobtrusive, and light weight. It would also leave the interior 'bare.' Toluene is usually pronounced TALL-YOU-EEN here in the States. It's distilled from pine oil and is that 'smell'. It is a solvent used in paint thinners and permanent markers. It's in most contact cements too.
Here's the rub - Anything put in or on a certified airplane needs to have FAA / Transport Canada approval. Really limits what can be used for the flooring or interior, pretty sure that neither of those are approved. There is one that is approved, but not sure that i'm going to use it.
Whoo hoo another Charlie update. I know every tiny gram counts but would painting the floor with something like a bed liner that would normally be used in a pickup truck bed be viable to protect the interior metal? I understand why you won't be putting the panels back on, but personally I'd put some kind of panel on the doors just to smooth it out. Personal preference. If you're completely replacing the seats maybe see if any fans want to purchase the old ones you pulled out of Charlie. Could help with funding the project if you can sell the seats for 100 dollars each plus shipping or something.
Bed-liner is both heavy and may not provide good corrosion protection. You need something that bonds to the metal and prevents liquid & gas contact with the surface. If you look around online you can see plenty of example of bed-liners where water got in between the liner and the underlying metal; and its a nasty result! Preferably you want something that either passivates the metal or at least acts as a sacrificial anode. Alodine and Zinc Chromate primer is the go-to for this.
In the summary at the end of the video you show several shots with large areas of yellow in them. Were those things you just shot earlier, or is there still a lot of yellow?
I don't know much about planes although I've flown in quite a few over my life time but this is just such an interesting channel. Question if you are unable to find spare parts for your plane, can you get a 3 D print of them made up?
I am super excited for this. Do you plan on just documenting the actual work you do or also the planning? I would love to see the designs you have in mind for the instrument panel for example.
And if you do change your mind, modern noise insulation is a: More effective; b: lighter; hell, getting rid of all those screws on the "hat rack" should save a bunch of weight too. that's what, a whole pound of screws?
It was kind of ratty and needed to be replaced - I do like the utilitarian look over the 'stock' Cessna interiors, and the weight saving is a bonus. Plus an actual full Cessna re-do of the interior would cost way too much.
How far back into the tail of the airplane do you think that you can put luggage items before you are affecting the front to back balance of the airplane. I assume that this becomes an issue with take off and landing. Are you able to use a stretchable cargo net that people use in the back of their SUV?
It can be (and is a requirement for flight) to do a weight and balance. All baggage areas have a rated max weight as well. Usually 80-150LBS for aircraft of this size
There is a very specific 'Extended Baggage' compartment that I put in. Aircraft are heavily regulated, so you have to follow the rules. I was able to add just under 3 feet of extra length and 50 pounds of baggage capacity.
Not really - I've flown in the North in the wintertime in 172's with and without insulation... There's a point where -20ºC in an insulated cabin and -35ºC in an uninsulated cabin feel the same.
🚧🚧 Outstanding Work Sir 👍😇 Cheers 🍻🍻🚧🚧
Glad you used protection especially the respirator for the tolulene. It is a bad neurotoxin. I have issues from breathing it heavily in the 1960s before OSHA here in the US. Stay safe and if you ask me I would toss the tolulene and not ever use it again.
toluene is industrial strength nail polish remover! Extremely toxic . The only time I've had to use it was in a lab in small quantities with safety glasses and gloves and in a fully enclosed extraction fan fume cupboard so I find it hard to imagine using it for 4 days in a "bunny suit" and respirator.
Industrial chemicals are wicked. I worked in a finishing shop and the people there would wash up with acetone. I asked them, "What the hell are you doing?" They just said it was fine, we've been doing it for years. I told them they were very uninformed!!!
Ah, the seat stop. I remember back when I learned to fly (late 80s) there was a Cessna 150 with a sticky seat lever. And once on takeoff it went sliding back with a vengeance. And what do you have your hand on when that happens? That's right, the yoke. My instructor was quick to push the yoke forward and I let go.
What I learned from this video was that buying the airplane was the easy and cheapest part.
Best thing I had done for my 172D was getting the generator out and an alternator in! Good choice
I really like the stripped down look in the interior. I think the utilitarian look is good on an older model. I also really like the fastback look. I had my first lesson this week in a 172P, but I think yours looks much cooler. In fact I think your videos gave me the push to start learning, which is something that's been on the to-do list for many years!
Best of luck with your training! There are lots of friendly pilots out there, so don't hesitate to ask whenever you have questions or experience challenges in your training/flying! :-)
@@noelwade Thank you!
If you are still in need of a spinner, I found them at Wag-Aero for $400 for the spinner and backing plate brand new. I needed one for my 1956 172 with the o-300 and McCauley prop. I believe it is the same part as your plane. Looking forward to watching the work on your plane. I've owned mine for about 15 years and just love it.
Won't buy a proper double boiler for chocolate, then buys a plane. Glen life!
Just having fun.
Toluene is definitely nasty stuff, good call with the bunny suit and respirator. That said, paired with some elbow grease it made the interior look amazing! Can't wait to see more of this project, even as someone who knows next to nothing about aviation.
You need a Canadian Tire sponsorship. You'll need a full set of tools in the hangar. Sockets, Philips head screwdriver, c-clip tool.
Milsurp SKS...
One trick I learned recently was to use dry ice to remove asphalt sound deadening from cars. May work on aluminum too. The dry ice freezes the asphalt to a point where it becomes brittle and can be scraped off.
Since your last vid, I passed my PPL checkride! Love seeing the progress and the plan of attack for working on this plane, I hope to do something similar and find my own project airplane to tackle.
I love these videos! I have no idea about planes but Glen makes makes anything interesting to watch 😁
I like to tell Glenn that there is something really nice about him doing it in installments and also how he does everything in real time. I'm a pilot that's kind of thinking about aircraft ownership and I enjoy seeing what the insides of them look like strip down, and the advice he has and especially the first and second episode watching The mechanic actually do a pre-buy inspection instead of something that is on slides or time lapse. It was really enjoyable for once
He does his videos like a half hour how-to show! Kudos Glen!! VERY nicely done!!!
The editing and cinematography of these videos are always pleasing to watch. Great job
Glad you like them!
"Hold! Plane... oh, no, never mind..." I'm amazed you were able to get to clean aluminum under that tar! Looking great!
Oof, your comment about things stretching out really hit home! I've been working to paint my Homebuilt off and on all year; with only 1-2 hours available each session it really does take a long time!
Keep em coming! I have a 182C that I want to do the same thing to the interior, so I'm watching with great interest. Thanks for sharing!!
Love your content. I started on your latest one and now have started from the beginning. I can imagine the planes flying past is such great motivation! Great channel. Thanks!
I popped over from your cooking site to see what kind of airplane you bought ~ nice! I won the 1995 AOPA sweepstakes and it was the first Cessna 172 out of the new factory in Independence, Kansas. What a thrill to go there and to have an airplane of my own! I see you’re having fun making it air-worthy. May you have much luck and happiness with it. Visit me down here in San Jose, CA someday💁🏼♀️👍🏼
About the two seat rail stops…. The first one you removed is a Saf-T-Stop that is meant to be slid forward and tightened after you have adjusted your seat in the flying position. This keeps the seat from sliding back during flight. People have stalled on takeoff and died because the seat slid back and the pilot grabbed the yoke. Then when you want to get out of the plane you loosen it and slide it back. I’ve spoken to the creator of this stop about the plastic handle that breaks. He has changed the design and you can buy the new design at Aircraft Spruce.
The second one you removed is just a simple piece to keep you from sliding the seat back too far which would allow you to pop the seat off the rail. There should be one of those at the front of the seat rail too in order to keep you from sliding the seat too far forward.
Great video by the way…. Keep them coming!
There is another of the little clips at the front of the rail. I think we'll be replacing the Saf-T-Stop will be replaced with the Cessna inertia reel system... I'm getting too old to reach back and tighten / loosen the Saf-T-Stop.
I love these episodes!
My God, what a lot of work! You have my everlasting admiration!
I’m looking forward to following along!
I have loved your cooking channel for some time, and I love this content as well! I hope you’ll be making more videos when all is legal to fly this plane!
Becoming a pilot is something I aspire to be one day as well, so this is the content am totally in for!
I really enjoy watching this project, Glen. Brings back many memories over the years. I'm glad you found this and are using it to get intimate with _your_ bird and getting back into the air for fun and adventures eventually. I spent a lot of time crawling through my Skylane and pulling the interior for annuals when I could. I did most of my oil changes and knew everything in front of the firewall intimately. It makes a huge difference when flying.
I did my intro flight in a 1977 152 in Dec, 1980. The majority of my training and early flying was in '77 and '80 Skyhawks. I never used a headset until I got back to flying in 2002. I remember how chaotic it was trying to understand the radio traffic through the overhead speaker and using the mics. Headsets and push to talk were very exciting!
I was talking to the screen when you were fighting with the C clips lol...
There is a tool for it but a shop rag works just as well to get the clip out, less chance of marring the panel.
Glen....looking good 👍! I almost forgot to subscribe to this new awesome channel. Thanks for another wonderful video
You need to run down to Canadian Tire and pick up a tool for installing and removing the C-clips.
Glen, Thank you for taking the time to read through the comments and answer questions ( sometimes repeatedly).
There are far too many channels that ask for comments and questions and then only respond with, "Hi. Thank you for watching."
It’s ridiculous how excited I am for this project-love it!
Love this and will follow.
The moment I saw you messing with the door latch my mind went back to that C clip tool I used with my older cars.
As for the sounds in an aircraft, the chief pilot from my old FBO came from the old school. No headsets. He wanted to hear very nuance of the sounds coming from the engine. Least to say he, after many years of flying he had lost most of his hearing. I have used David Clark's most of my time in flying but everyone seems to have switched to Bose. Don't think I'll invest in any new headsets since I seldom fly today.
Love this series, super informative, please keep it up
I'd definitely put some of the green corrosion protection on the inside, especially if you're gonna paint it anyway. I've seen aluminium corrode so fast, even in a hangared aircraft.
That's the plan
It's Zinc Chromate primer. Aircraft Spruce stocks it. Various size jars and cans, and even an aerosol spray bomb. But the spray bombs are $25 each.
Hey glen! I know nothing about planes but came over from “glen and friends.” very much enjoying experiencing the journey with you! Love the stripped down interior.
Such a clean, spartan hangar! Its obviously new-to-you... :-D Trust me, its easier to keep on top of it by cleaning a bit each time than to let it get dirty and have to seriously clean it all out! I learned the hard way by getting a hangar a couple of years before my homebuilt was done, and only visiting it once every couple of months... Bugs and blown-in dirt don't stop when you aren't there. ;-)
enjoying all your channels
Great series of videos. When I used to build rally cars we found that removing the roof lining meant a lot of condensation would form on the cold metal when it was left overnight. This condensation could then run down the pillars and could cause problems with electrics. I realise that you will be using ANR headsets and I'm interested to see whether the removal of the sound deadening panels and trim will result in a big noise level increase (drumming) that proves tiring. 40 years ago we didn't have ANR technology...
The black petroleum stuff if best removed by putting dry ice on it, until it all freezes then hitting with a plastic mallet, and it'll just shatter off
Wait, what? You not only cook and bake, but you're also a hobbyist airplane owner! I have no desire or financial means to own, repair or fly a plane, but I'll subscribe for learning about something I have no idea about. 😊
Seeing your headliner removed causes me to think you might want to review Cessna service letter SE69-26 dealing with fuel vent system modifications to prevent possible vapor lock. SE72-7 provides more detail. I was able to find salvaged parts to modify my 172B.
Magnificent
Good job !
I did lots of that for CP and AC in overhaul. Instead of a metal scraper, use a plastic, ceramic or micarta scraper to get the big stuff and red or grey scotchbright soaked in toluene or mek to remove the glue. leaves much less damage from scrape marks on the metal.
You should always take a look in your manual and parts book… gives a lot info of how to remove or what is inside…. I removed all the insulation too… I don’t have a baggage door thought …
I guess you could replace the interior panels with modern lightweight sound deadening insulating materials if you wanted. Probably not add much weight
Congrats buddy. Enjoy in good health!
handle comes off like the old 60's and 70's cars, they make tool for it also.
Really well done.
Any thoughts on doing a update video of your interior finished? For those of us looking to do a utility interior on our 1950s era air aircraft your end result is very clean. Would love detail on your wing root area as well as an overall look at what you did and how it turned out.
I probably should - I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, suits my needs really well.
With as many people doing Cessna interior mods as there is, I feel like that content would get you a lot of traction well at the same time showing some of us how a good interior project could be completed and be both functional and aesthetically pleasing.
There is another paint stripper called ST-7. It is an epoxy paint remover. Thick like what you used. The black stuff is probably Par-Al-keytone used for corrosion protection. Once stripped you will want to use acid etch and aluminum chromate prior to paint.
Yes; the acid etch and primer is part of the plan.
The door handle issue reminded me of older cars where the answer to getting door handle off was to press the trim towards the door. the exposed the pin that held handle on the square peg. push pin through, pull handle off peg and the circular trim is free. If only Cessna had taken advice from British car manufacturers...
I know it’s old but those old school crank clips pop right out if you slip a rag around it on the open end of the clip and pull the rag back and forth and the clip will pop out enough to remove the crank… Then fully reinstall the clip to reinstall it and just pop it on because the crankshaft is ramped
Tall-you-een is correct. As soon as you open that can you're going to be reminded of felt markers.
As an ex Aircraft Weights Engineer I'd definitely suggest getting a new weighing done. It's not worth calculating weight and location on a set of numbers that are so old.
Rubber matting, look around at different ones, comparing dencities might save you a couple of lbs.
Lastly, put a steady under the tail. You don't want your aircraft to tip if you are inside it and the only ine in the hanger.
Excellent work btw.
You could look into logging your time working on the plane and ask your mechanic to sign off on it periodically. You might eventually end with with enough hours to go for you A&P. Particularly if you end up building a kit plane. (Assuming the Canadian system is similar to the US system)
I am stripping the paint on my airplane right now, and do yourself a favor and use Stewart Systems E3000 EkoStrip. It is an environmentally safe paint stripper that can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on your painted surface. It's not solvent borne and does not dry out and stop working overnight. In most cases the stripping action will take place in 2-4 hours. EkoStrip has no harsh odors, is not caustic and is biodegradable. Best part is it actually works as well as the solvent versions or better, and doesn't eat through nitrile gloves.
Keep you eyes out for episode #5 - I just finished the job of stripping and tried the EkoStrip Vs. two other solvent based strippers. No spoilers, on what happened just yet.
I love these episodes.
You were talking about the lack of insulation between the interior side panels and the skin of the aircraft.
Can you put insulation in between the interior side panels and the skin of the aircraft?
Typical fiberglass insulation from a home improvement store?
Spray in insulation that car restorers use?
Dynamat sound deadening material, which is really meant for the floors. It does more to muffle the noise rather than insulate.
Toluene (tol-u-ene) is an organic solvent, that occurs in nature. It is clear and colorless, but has a distinctive odor. It also occurs in pine pitch and tar, crude oil and lighter petroleum distillates, like naptha or gasoline (there's about 5% toluene in some gasoline blends). It's common chemical formula is C5H5-CH3, also known as methylbenzene (or C6H8 in the IUPAC [International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry] formalism) or toluol (since it was first isolated from the balsa of Tolu or other pine trees that have a light weight per cubic foot of wood [e.g., "balsa wood"]). It's the compound that gives the "glue-sniffer's high" from building plastic models in a space with little ventillation. Consider it to be a neurotoxin (or intoxicant) and wear a respirator in anything other than a very well-ventillated area with high airflow. This organic compound is used in paint strippers, adhesives (like contact cements) and as a solvent for specific chemical reactions (I've used it for that purpose, but in a high airflow chemical fume hood inside closed glass vessels).
I agree with what you are doing. Keep the documentation and the parts, but prep for what is done for today's situations. Don't try for a museum-quality piece, unless that's your objective. Since it flys, let's keep it flying!!!
Also, when using flammable solvents in a spray bottle like that, you should ground the aircraft and bond yourself to it.
Adjustable crescent wrench, AKA thumb detecting nut lathe.
Also useful for "percussive maintenance"! :-D
Canadian box wrench set
You could probably eBay those seats, if you want to unload them and get some new seats. If the shipping to Taiwan would not be more than the seats, I would make you an offer. I am jealous. Good on you, mate.
I need to hang on to the seat frames to recover them. I'd love to get frames that have a higher back from a later model 172, but there are so many other things higher on the to-do list.
TOL-you-een. I have my undergrad degree in chemistry. I'm surprised you can still get the stuff over the counter. Nasty to your lungs kidneys and liver. But still just a cyclic hydrocarbon sometimes found in things like gasoline which you can also buy.
That's why I wore the respirator and gloves while working with it - horrible stuff, that did the job.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the second T in TNT, right?
@Kinkajou1015 It is!
There is a special tool to remove the handles....... They are common on older automotive.. You might try a "Steam Cleaner" to clean... Non Toxic..
i really want one of those seats
I hear doing weight and balance sooooooo much I just received my A&P license last Saturday here in the states one thing you didn’t say about the things you removed is you need to note down the distance from the datum to do the weight and balance
I would also mention that you can’t use certain chemicals or tools bc it will cause corrosion or remove the protective layer on the metal one of the planes at the school I went to for my license was there bc it was sand blasted to remove the paint and that caused the aircraft to be no longer air worthy without being completely reskinned bc the protective layer on the aluminum was gone so the insurance company totaled it and donated it for us
I noted the distance - just didn't think to say it as a separate task. My AME is helping me in the background with the correct advice on chemicals etc.
Can you use the old headliner as a template to create a new headliner?
You could probably make one piece of masonite that could be prefit to the ceiling and then glue the fabric or leather to the masonite.
Im assuming that the side panels already have a piece or wood or masonite that can be reused and recovered.
I would not bother removing the black sound insulation.
Alot of effort but I understand Glen is in it for the long hall and did great 😊👌
Hi Glen
I’m restoring the sister of this a/c almost right down to the colours
Really enjoying the videos
Would sure like to swap ideas
Hey @Gilbert Swain where are you located? Based on my research (and tearing this plane apart) it seems this plane was rebuilt in 90s and has parts from other planes on it. If the paint scheme is the same - was your plane ever at Leggat Aviation for repairs?
I have a 172 B and I needed to lubricate door handle, adjust it. Now I know how to get at it. Thanks.
Nice cleanup!
The easiest way to remove the door handle (when you don't have the proper tool) is to wrap a rag around the post and pull it around it. The end of the clip will get imbedded in the rag and pop it right off.
Too late now, but you can go by auto part stores and buy a tool that slides behind the door handle and pops the clip off for you. Really cheap. Those are used on window crank handles on cars too.
Looking great
I am here for all these airplane videos! Very satisfying when you too everything out! Its going to look fantastic! Can’t wait for high altitude footage and plane noises! Do you know what color or colors you want it to be?
Hey I got a 1961 172B and wouldn’t mind seeing what parts you plan to sell or dispose of. I’m in Saskatchewan. Shoot me a pm before you toss anything! Please!
G,day from Sydney Australia.
Is Canadian Transport going to keep CFMVU as the tail registration?
* Green anti corrosion paint inside fuselage?
🌏🇦🇺
Hi from lockdown free regional NSW :)
@John Fitzpatrick - Yes the registration mark will stay the same; I could ask to change it, but why tempt bad luck.
If you are concerned about noise with all of the old insulation removed, maybe look at the modern materials like Dynamat or Kilmat? It is usually self-adhesive, unobtrusive, and light weight. It would also leave the interior 'bare.'
Toluene is usually pronounced TALL-YOU-EEN here in the States. It's distilled from pine oil and is that 'smell'. It is a solvent used in paint thinners and permanent markers. It's in most contact cements too.
Here's the rub - Anything put in or on a certified airplane needs to have FAA / Transport Canada approval. Really limits what can be used for the flooring or interior, pretty sure that neither of those are approved. There is one that is approved, but not sure that i'm going to use it.
As a professional 1st AC, id suggest doing feature length episodes.
TALL - u - een !
Taal-you-ween. I used to work with it, but don't remember how?
It is called "tall' u een" in the US. It is a solvent.
Whoo hoo another Charlie update.
I know every tiny gram counts but would painting the floor with something like a bed liner that would normally be used in a pickup truck bed be viable to protect the interior metal?
I understand why you won't be putting the panels back on, but personally I'd put some kind of panel on the doors just to smooth it out. Personal preference.
If you're completely replacing the seats maybe see if any fans want to purchase the old ones you pulled out of Charlie. Could help with funding the project if you can sell the seats for 100 dollars each plus shipping or something.
Bed-liner is both heavy and may not provide good corrosion protection. You need something that bonds to the metal and prevents liquid & gas contact with the surface. If you look around online you can see plenty of example of bed-liners where water got in between the liner and the underlying metal; and its a nasty result! Preferably you want something that either passivates the metal or at least acts as a sacrificial anode. Alodine and Zinc Chromate primer is the go-to for this.
In the summary at the end of the video you show several shots with large areas of yellow in them. Were those things you just shot earlier, or is there still a lot of yellow?
Not sure if Transport Canada got in touch but you do need a fedora to operate this type and year.
Good day Glen, just out of curiosity, does Jules have her pilots license too?
I don't know much about planes although I've flown in quite a few over my life time but this is just such an interesting channel.
Question if you are unable to find spare parts for your plane, can you get a 3 D print of them made up?
I am super excited for this. Do you plan on just documenting the actual work you do or also the planning? I would love to see the designs you have in mind for the instrument panel for example.
There is a tool for getting those handles off but even with it they still a pain.
The correct use of "nauseous" made me so happy.
I'm surprised you don't have a fedora! Also if anyone else was taking this all apart I'd say it's never going back together again....
And if you do change your mind, modern noise insulation is a: More effective; b: lighter;
hell, getting rid of all those screws on the "hat rack" should save a bunch of weight too. that's what, a whole pound of screws?
Having worked many years in the boat manufacturing. Read the safety data sheet for the solvents you are using. Some of them are pretty nasty 🤮.
So on the weight of what you removed, was that just the carpet, panels and headliner or did that include the rear seats?
Carpet, panels, headliner, rear seats, hat shelf, all of the vacuum system and gauges / gyroscopes, etc.
Tol-U-een ☺️
I'm curious at the reason is that you are taking out the interior? Weight? You like a more utilitarian look? Enjoying the videos.
It was kind of ratty and needed to be replaced - I do like the utilitarian look over the 'stock' Cessna interiors, and the weight saving is a bonus. Plus an actual full Cessna re-do of the interior would cost way too much.
@@GlensHangar Ahhh, thanks! It will be fun to watch the evolution of your plane.
How far back into the tail of the airplane do you think that you can put luggage items before you are affecting the front to back balance of the airplane. I assume that this becomes an issue with take off and landing.
Are you able to use a stretchable cargo net that people use in the back of their SUV?
It can be (and is a requirement for flight) to do a weight and balance. All baggage areas have a rated max weight as well. Usually 80-150LBS for aircraft of this size
There is a very specific 'Extended Baggage' compartment that I put in. Aircraft are heavily regulated, so you have to follow the rules.
I was able to add just under 3 feet of extra length and 50 pounds of baggage capacity.
Keeping things simple is one thing, but without insulation it will be cold.
Not really - I've flown in the North in the wintertime in 172's with and without insulation... There's a point where -20ºC in an insulated cabin and -35ºC in an uninsulated cabin feel the same.
@@GlensHangar BUNNY BOOTS! LOL
Wear a mask when handling that thinner ,I worked at GM as a paint mixer and ya it’s bad stuff