Just finished watching the 3 parts of your floor levelling series. Love your style of instruction! I often over-engineer my DIY projects to make sure everything works out well and it's nice to find someone who takes their time and shares their learnings (and mistakes 😆) as this is sometimes left out from other DIY UA-camrs. You have yourself a new subscriber!
Thanks for watching and your feedback! I know that all new things come with surprises and they can be very frustrating, so I like to try all possibilities before going at it. Glad to have you as a subscriber!
Thanks for watching and your comment! That is correc. Youu don't necessarily need to wash the buckets with a slow curing compound. The one I used was cured in 4 hours and starts to set in about 20 minutes. Starting from the 3rd bucket, clumps would start to form. 86m2 is a big surface!
Great job, very thorough. How many 20kg bags did you end up using in your garage? How accurate was the manufacturs' Kg/Sq.m/mm? Do you think you can mix in such a way that you can use to smooth the floor, rather than level it? My garage has a gentle slope, just want a smooth surface to paint expoy finish 🤔
Thanks for watching and the nice comment! I think it was about 10 bags give or take. The accuracy is pretty good, although calculating an uneven floor is always a bit guessing. There are compounds that you can apply in a thin layer, about 2 or 3mm. But it will always slide down the slope unless you don't prep the underground and it dries really fast. But this is challenging! Finishing with epoxy is definitely possible. The best of luck with your project!
Thank you for these videos. We watched them multiple times before starting the project and we followed all of your tips. You mentioned that you would finish this floor off "with either a PU or an epoxy." Can you say more about this process and what you used?
Dear Ladydadyruok, thank you so much for watching and your question. To be honest, I haven't had the chance to finish my garage floor as of yet. Perhaps, I will leave it like it is, as I never work with grease or oil products and there is no car inside that can drip oil. In case you want to extra protect it with a coating, the floor should be free of grease and dust and the lower portion of your wall protected with plastic to avoid splashes. I think this video is a good indication how to approach this: ua-cam.com/video/KECUrK_Ib1w/v-deo.html. (pay attention how he moves towards the exit of the floor and how he rolls in lanes to keep working wet-in-wet paint. This avoids stripes after drying for a nice and even result. The rest depends a lot on your product of choice. I would recommend PU as it is quite a bit easier to apply because of the extended open time compared to epoxy and it will not turn yellow due to UV radiation. The recommended amount of layers, if you need to sand in between or not and the drying time before full use is mentioned on the product information sheet. (this can vary between brands) Keep the project area well ventilated or work with a face mask if ventilation is difficult, as it will emit unhealthy vapors during the drying process. (a low-VOC water based PU is a good choice here). Apologies for the late reply and good luck with your project, you got this!!!
@@pencilntools Super! We ended up going with a PU. We called the manufacturer of the brand of self-leveling compound that we used and asked him to recommend a sealant and he did. It all worked out. Thanks again for sharing your details. What makes your videos so helpful is that you also discuss what didn't go well and you allow us to learn as you learn. We appreciate you!
Any reason why the mixes didn't join and you could still see the border shadow 9:50 of each pouring when the whole floor dried up? The roller seemed to work when the mix was wet, but apparently it still needs some longer work, maybe up to a minute, to really mix them better.
Thanks for your question! There might be different reasons for this: 1:It could be that the composition of each batch is slightly different, giving a different color. 2: The difference in drying could be a factor as well. In my tryout video, I noticed I had white spots caused by efflorescence, this is when water transfers calcium hydroxide to the surface. With each bucket, I'm adding "fresh" moisture to the last batch. Increasing the drying time a bit. 3: A Difference in thickness of the underground can cause difference in drying speeds, this can create discoloration as well. 4: When rinsing the spiked roller, water remains on the roller, this gets introduced into the mixture again and gives some discoloration as well. My guess is that it is more a combination of 1-2-4. If this is important for your project, you could mix larger batches in one go or work with a slow setting mixture so you don't have to rinse your tools so often. A colored epoxy or PU coating could cover this as well. In my case, color is not important as it is a garage floor. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for explaing how to do this. I'm preparing my basement and some areas are almost 2 inches different from the highest point! When you mom was cleaning it out, where was she pouring the excess water after she washed out the buckets? I would imagine that down the drain is a bad idea?
Thanks for watching! For your basement, i think this offers you a great opportunity to run some tests on the deepest points to level it out a bit before doing one complete layer. (I did it in my trial and error video and learned a lot, it sounds corny but please check this one out as well before trying it yourself as i made a lot of mistakes that you can learn from) Please double-check the maximum layer thickness that you can pour with your compound of choice. The excess water was collected in a pit right before the garage. The water will sink, and the rest of the sludge was scooped out to bring to a recycling center. (This is cement and a bit of sand residue and will form a crust) so you are right, don’t pour it in the drain, but somewhere where the water can get out and the resisue will be trapped. You could use a layer of sand on top of soil. The sand will trap the residues as the water passes through. Afterward, you can scoop this up or even use it in another project like a concrete foundation or stabilized sand for cobblestones. Hope this helps and the best of luck!! Cheers!
Great series of videos thanks. What thickness was your final pour? I intend to do a single pour to fill some holes as well as levelling. Some areas will go up to 40mm depth. Can you see any issues with this amount/depth of compound? it is within the mapei 3240 depth ranges but I am unsure how this depth will behave. thanks
Thanks for watching and your feedback! My final layer was about 5-10mm thick. Looking at the compound you are about to use, it shouldn't be an issue. The reason I did it in several layers was to familiarize myself with the compound and the process, and to have an easier volume to calculate (which saved me some stress in the end). I have applied it on other surfaces as well, with bigger/deeper holes. As long as it is within the range that is written on the bag, you are good to go. The best of luck with your project!
How do you increase ventilation? I’m doing a basement which has 4 windows & hatchway. Would a fan help not aimed at floor but to circulate air. Thoughts?
Thanks for watching and your comment. Yes, i have used a fan as well in the end. Also aimed upwards a bit. This was sufficient to get rid of the moisture in the air. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for watching! This is a great product to level it out and get a smooth result. I used Hubo for testing (the diy market home brand): this was the cheaper brand. The knauf brand is more pricey but definitely the better choice. Better mixture and homogeneous result. Often times there are discounts when they reach end of shelf life. It's still usable but more affordable. If you plan to use it on short notice, this is ideal. Good luck with your project! If you have questions, please let me know!
That's a creative solution i must say, not sure if it is as functional as it should be. Keep in mind that it is good to have overall ventilation until the compound has dried up on the surface. The evaporated moist should be transported away. I find a cheap fan that can rotate on auto is a great solution. Would love to hear the result if you go for the leaf blower! Good luck!!
After leveling your floor did you finish it with some type of covering? I would like to do a similar treatment to my garage floor then apply epoxy. I am not sure if they are compatible. Do you have any suggestions? Norm
Hey Norm, i have not treated the floor yet, but you sure can. You can use an epoxy or PU coating for garage floors as they are tougher than other types of varnish. Always check with your product specs because each product has a different composition. Hope it helps, and best of luck with your project!
Hi Carlos, this depends on the the type of compound that you use. Please check the brand of compound you intend to use and google the user manual. This will indicate the yield per L or lb according to the thickness per layer. Hope this helps!
Hi mate, I just wonder how thick of the compound has to be so it can flow freely and self-level? i have been told 2mm is the min. whats your opinion. ?
Hey, the thickness is determined by the manufacturer. Minimum is usually 2mm yes, a good flow is achieved also by a decently primed underground so that the compound doesn’t dry too quickly and has time to flow. The minimum thickness is also necessary to achieve good strength of the product when hardened. Best of luck!!!
@pencilntools thanks mate! I am trying to level my floor for wood effect tiles and only need to fill 2 -3 mm so a bit worried if that's enough compound to make it flow. I will have a good worse case will just spend more and add more compound
Just finished watching the 3 parts of your floor levelling series. Love your style of instruction! I often over-engineer my DIY projects to make sure everything works out well and it's nice to find someone who takes their time and shares their learnings (and mistakes 😆) as this is sometimes left out from other DIY UA-camrs. You have yourself a new subscriber!
Thanks for watching and your feedback! I know that all new things come with surprises and they can be very frustrating, so I like to try all possibilities before going at it. Glad to have you as a subscriber!
U r a legend
your videos are so helpful. i was worried that i wouldn't be able to do it but now i believe i can. thank you!!
So happy it helped you!!❤❤❤
Well done. Great video. All aspects of self levelling a floor delightfully explained.... 👍
Many thanks for the nice comments. I'm very glad you liked it!
Congratulations. You have made one of the best videos I have ever seen for self leveling. Bravo!j
Thanks for the kind words! Much appreciated!
as far as i remember, we didn't wash the bucket&roller, though pouring 86 m2. but we used low curing speed mixture - can walk on it only next day
Thanks for watching and your comment! That is correc. Youu don't necessarily need to wash the buckets with a slow curing compound. The one I used was cured in 4 hours and starts to set in about 20 minutes. Starting from the 3rd bucket, clumps would start to form. 86m2 is a big surface!
The wastewater filter is a great idea. First time I've seen it.
Another excellent practical video. Thank you.
Nice vid. I just did this for my entire garage floor. It turned out beautiful! Level as it could be! Was surprised how easy it was. 👍🏻
It's a wonderful product, and with the right preparation and team, it's pretty easy to install.
Great job, very thorough.
How many 20kg bags did you end up using in your garage? How accurate was the manufacturs' Kg/Sq.m/mm?
Do you think you can mix in such a way that you can use to smooth the floor, rather than level it? My garage has a gentle slope, just want a smooth surface to paint expoy finish 🤔
Thanks for watching and the nice comment!
I think it was about 10 bags give or take. The accuracy is pretty good, although calculating an uneven floor is always a bit guessing.
There are compounds that you can apply in a thin layer, about 2 or 3mm. But it will always slide down the slope unless you don't prep the underground and it dries really fast. But this is challenging!
Finishing with epoxy is definitely possible.
The best of luck with your project!
Perhaps a trowel with a longer handle so you don’t have to bend so much
That would have been a lot easier, yes. Great tip! Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it!
Thank you for these videos. We watched them multiple times before starting the project and we followed all of your tips. You mentioned that you would finish this floor off "with either a PU or an epoxy." Can you say more about this process and what you used?
Dear Ladydadyruok, thank you so much for watching and your question. To be honest, I haven't had the chance to finish my garage floor as of yet. Perhaps, I will leave it like it is, as I never work with grease or oil products and there is no car inside that can drip oil.
In case you want to extra protect it with a coating, the floor should be free of grease and dust and the lower portion of your wall protected with plastic to avoid splashes. I think this video is a good indication how to approach this: ua-cam.com/video/KECUrK_Ib1w/v-deo.html. (pay attention how he moves towards the exit of the floor and how he rolls in lanes to keep working wet-in-wet paint. This avoids stripes after drying for a nice and even result.
The rest depends a lot on your product of choice. I would recommend PU as it is quite a bit easier to apply because of the extended open time compared to epoxy and it will not turn yellow due to UV radiation. The recommended amount of layers, if you need to sand in between or not and the drying time before full use is mentioned on the product information sheet. (this can vary between brands)
Keep the project area well ventilated or work with a face mask if ventilation is difficult, as it will emit unhealthy vapors during the drying process. (a low-VOC water based PU is a good choice here).
Apologies for the late reply and good luck with your project, you got this!!!
@@pencilntools Super! We ended up going with a PU. We called the manufacturer of the brand of self-leveling compound that we used and asked him to recommend a sealant and he did. It all worked out. Thanks again for sharing your details. What makes your videos so helpful is that you also discuss what didn't go well and you allow us to learn as you learn. We appreciate you!
@ladyladyruok thanks for getting back to me with the good news! I'm happy it turned out well for you! Your feedback keeps me going!
Any reason why the mixes didn't join and you could still see the border shadow 9:50 of each pouring when the whole floor dried up? The roller seemed to work when the mix was wet, but apparently it still needs some longer work, maybe up to a minute, to really mix them better.
Thanks for your question! There might be different reasons for this: 1:It could be that the composition of each batch is slightly different, giving a different color. 2: The difference in drying could be a factor as well. In my tryout video, I noticed I had white spots caused by efflorescence, this is when water transfers calcium hydroxide to the surface. With each bucket, I'm adding "fresh" moisture to the last batch. Increasing the drying time a bit. 3: A Difference in thickness of the underground can cause difference in drying speeds, this can create discoloration as well. 4: When rinsing the spiked roller, water remains on the roller, this gets introduced into the mixture again and gives some discoloration as well.
My guess is that it is more a combination of 1-2-4. If this is important for your project, you could mix larger batches in one go or work with a slow setting mixture so you don't have to rinse your tools so often.
A colored epoxy or PU coating could cover this as well.
In my case, color is not important as it is a garage floor.
Good luck with your project!
Thanks for explaing how to do this. I'm preparing my basement and some areas are almost 2 inches different from the highest point! When you mom was cleaning it out, where was she pouring the excess water after she washed out the buckets? I would imagine that down the drain is a bad idea?
Thanks for watching!
For your basement, i think this offers you a great opportunity to run some tests on the deepest points to level it out a bit before doing one complete layer. (I did it in my trial and error video and learned a lot, it sounds corny but please check this one out as well before trying it yourself as i made a lot of mistakes that you can learn from) Please double-check the maximum layer thickness that you can pour with your compound of choice.
The excess water was collected in a pit right before the garage. The water will sink, and the rest of the sludge was scooped out to bring to a recycling center. (This is cement and a bit of sand residue and will form a crust) so you are right, don’t pour it in the drain, but somewhere where the water can get out and the resisue will be trapped.
You could use a layer of sand on top of soil. The sand will trap the residues as the water passes through. Afterward, you can scoop this up or even use it in another project like a concrete foundation or stabilized sand for cobblestones.
Hope this helps and the best of luck!!
Cheers!
Great series of videos thanks. What thickness was your final pour? I intend to do a single pour to fill some holes as well as levelling. Some areas will go up to 40mm depth. Can you see any issues with this amount/depth of compound? it is within the mapei 3240 depth ranges but I am unsure how this depth will behave. thanks
Thanks for watching and your feedback! My final layer was about 5-10mm thick. Looking at the compound you are about to use, it shouldn't be an issue. The reason I did it in several layers was to familiarize myself with the compound and the process, and to have an easier volume to calculate (which saved me some stress in the end). I have applied it on other surfaces as well, with bigger/deeper holes. As long as it is within the range that is written on the bag, you are good to go.
The best of luck with your project!
@pencilntools thanks for the reply. Great content!
How do you increase ventilation? I’m doing a basement which has 4 windows & hatchway. Would a fan help not aimed at floor but to circulate air. Thoughts?
Thanks for watching and your comment. Yes, i have used a fan as well in the end. Also aimed upwards a bit. This was sufficient to get rid of the moisture in the air. Good luck with your project!
Im thinking of doing this to my garage aswell mine is not level and pitted. Nice video. What products did you use? From hubo abd knauf i see
Thanks for watching! This is a great product to level it out and get a smooth result. I used Hubo for testing (the diy market home brand): this was the cheaper brand. The knauf brand is more pricey but definitely the better choice. Better mixture and homogeneous result.
Often times there are discounts when they reach end of shelf life. It's still usable but more affordable. If you plan to use it on short notice, this is ideal.
Good luck with your project!
If you have questions, please let me know!
What about a leaf blower on low to help distribute the material….
That's a creative solution i must say, not sure if it is as functional as it should be. Keep in mind that it is good to have overall ventilation until the compound has dried up on the surface. The evaporated moist should be transported away.
I find a cheap fan that can rotate on auto is a great solution. Would love to hear the result if you go for the leaf blower! Good luck!!
After leveling your floor did you finish it with some type of covering? I would like to do a similar treatment to my garage floor then apply epoxy. I am not sure if they are compatible. Do you have any suggestions?
Norm
Hey Norm, i have not treated the floor yet, but you sure can. You can use an epoxy or PU coating for garage floors as they are tougher than other types of varnish.
Always check with your product specs because each product has a different composition.
Hope it helps, and best of luck with your project!
How thick and square footage it covered per 50lb bag? Thanks
Hi Carlos, this depends on the the type of compound that you use. Please check the brand of compound you intend to use and google the user manual. This will indicate the yield per L or lb according to the thickness per layer.
Hope this helps!
Hi mate, I just wonder how thick of the compound has to be so it can flow freely and self-level? i have been told 2mm is the min. whats your opinion. ?
Hey, the thickness is determined by the manufacturer. Minimum is usually 2mm yes, a good flow is achieved also by a decently primed underground so that the compound doesn’t dry too quickly and has time to flow.
The minimum thickness is also necessary to achieve good strength of the product when hardened.
Best of luck!!!
@pencilntools thanks mate! I am trying to level my floor for wood effect tiles and only need to fill 2 -3 mm so a bit worried if that's enough compound to make it flow. I will have a good worse case will just spend more and add more compound