congratulations, fantastic work - this is huge help for me here in Whitehorse, Yukon working on 2 ancient TC-377 machines still used at Yukon Archives to listen to 40 - 50 year old tape material
Excellent video! I bought one of these at the Navy Exchange in Yokosuka, Japan back in '72. One of the channels stopped producing sound in the early '80's. I couldn't find anyone willing to work on it and I was not well versed at the time with working on electronics (that has since changed drastically and I have restored dozens of tape decks). Instead of keeping the machine until I had gained enough knowledge to repair it I foolishly tossed it in the trash bin. I am seriously considering getting another one just for nostalgia's sake. Your instructions will definitely be a help to me should I go ahead with the project.
I take what I said back one hour ago. This instruction (sounds like a bloke accent to me) just saved me from buying another recorder and/or 350.00 at the Sacramento repair store at 5800 Madison Avenue, Madison at Manzanita. I have a Sony TC 388 but the mechanics are the same as a TC377. Bless you.
Thanks for your comment. The mechanics are the same, I think it's just the recording/playback heads are different. Glad I could be of some use. Good luck.
This is a major restoration project - patience over several weeks is a must. Very enjoyable video, appreciated. I have a Sony TC-645 which I have almost finished restoring, must have spent 30 - 40 hours on it already.
Wow - What a great restoration video. I've just bought myself a TC-377 for £90. It sort of works but levels are extremely low and mechanically well below par No wow & flutter that I can hear with my ancient ears but belts clearly slipping. So, now looking forward to many happy hours repeating your restoration work. Thanks so much for that. It's given me great confidence to do it and told me what materials to use & what to expect.
I'm so grateful for this video. My father gave me his TC-366 which he purchased new in 1971 (identical in almost every respect to the TC-377 except no ferrite heads). I wore it out in my teenage years, but it got new heads and belts in the 80's, and after languishing for 2 decades my father gave it to me, and it languished for another decade. I recently decided to transfer some irreplaceable tapes to MP3, but the transport barely moved. Your video guided me through regreasing the entire transport mechanism (boy, the metal in this deck is solid, and it's much easier to work on than my Nakamichi CR1A cassette deck!). I spent a happy Saturday afternoon, and I'm pleased to say this deck now plays music flawlessly. The mechanisms are now silent, which they have not been since 1985. This was a long overdue service, and I did it by myself with your help! I had even considered buying a working reel-to-reel on ebay, paying the horrendous prices these items seem to command. Now, I'm wondering what my working unit will sell for once I finish my tape transfers.
Hello Jon, I appreciate your kind and informative comment and I am glad my video helped you through and you had excellent results, well done. Also, thank you for subscribing to my channel to help get the word out. Kind Regards.
Thank you for your kind comment. I hope this helps with your restoration. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you feel so inclined. If you have questions I may be able to help. Best of luck.
Enjoyed watching this . I bought the TC 377 in 1977 of course. Lasted a good 10 years before the reel rubber band stretched . After moving a few times I forgot who I ever gave it to. Still have a couple tapes laying around from my bachelor days.
Thanks so much for this great instructional video. It's given me the confidence to service my TC-377! I'll be watching 3 or 4 times, and ten having at it! With your video cued up of course!
I got one of these for free at the electronics recycling center. It works, but of course it needs a good cleaning, belts, etc. Thanks for doing this very detailed video!
You are welcome. I hope the video helps you through the process. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe to help the channel grow. Best of luck from the UK.
Thank you for this very complete video. I completed my tear down of a TC-377 for an inoperative speed selector switch, but after reassembly, the left reel wasn’t turning. I Removed the face and removed the left reel table and cleaned the shaft. Still had the issue. I studied the mechanism but just couldn’t understand why the brake wasn’t releasing until I saw your video towards the end where you pointed out the correct position of the release lever. I am so great full that you cautioned everyone about the correct positioning of this release lever. Hopefully you will see this. Can you comment on the how the left reel table actually works. When I disassembled it and saw the two parts interlocked and then turned together. It seemed to me that it might be designed so that the top part would be mechanically raised to disengage the drive piece of plastic thus allowing the reel to spin, but I didn’t see any mechanical apparatus to do this. So again, thank you for commenting on this critical installation point.
Thanks a Bunch, Master Sony San! I succeeded in servicing my TC-377 mechanically with this clear instruction. Your comments are very practical and the video is outstanding. I couldn't get Rubber Renue in Holland so I used another rubber cleaner. Seems to work fine. But the recorder still doesn't record , so I have to look for an instruction to handle that. Hope I will find something of your craft for this too.
Thank you for your response to the video. I am glad you found it useful. Please subscribe if you haven't already and good luck finding the electronic expertise you are looking for.
This is a really GREAT video! I've just spent quite a bit of today servicing and cleaning mine. Used to work on these in the early 90s, wish I'd kept hold of most of the ones I sold on given the recent price rises! These were domestic machines, but really really good ones. Take the front off and take a bit of time to appreciate just how well built these decks are... 1971 IIRC, and these weren't anywhere near the start of open reel Tapecorders for Sony, they produced many other R2Rs before this one! Akai did very similar fine engineering with their decks too... Lovely stuff! :) So, I don't want to critise this video, which is a really good and easy to follow guide for these machines, but I need to make a few points. Firstly: Screws - (50m38) Phillips and Pozidriv screws are quite different and are arguably (to some people) somewhat interchangeable, although really, they aren't! You can seriously damage either screwheads with the wrong driver, and you can damage the screwheads on this using Phillips or Pozidriv. This is a Japanese product so you can pretty much bet everything you own on every screw in this thing being a JIS screw. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) or JIS B1012 to give them their full name, are the screws with a little dot on the head next to the cross head. The lobes are a different shape/pitch to other cross headed screw so while a Phillips or Pozidriv might loosely fit, you could chew up the head of the screw if you slip, which you almost definitely will, because lobe pitch thing, yeah? Main/first idler, the bottom one off of the motor - (34m00) It's been refitted upside down! Although it shouldn't make much difference, I'm afraid it is the wrong way up! The machined cup should surround the felt washer which I guess works like an oil wick... The rainbowy (is that a word?) finish of the metal plates/parts - Galvinised steel plates. Because, of course it's galvinised. This is a very very well made machine! Trapped wires under the front middle screw - Yes, mind these! I remember having to rewire a couple of similar machines back in the day... Last thought, reinstalling the transport plate (the plate under the head block). If you have removed and refitted this, don't you love how it locks in place once it's there? Like, wiggle it around and suddenly it clicks into place and stays there! And, all this was designed before modern computers and CAD! Utterly mind blowing!
Thank you for your comments and for pointing out some valuable observations and tips. It seems you have experience with these machines. I tried to follow a common sense approach to the repairs, but to be honest had no previous experience with this machine. One thing is clear, the machine is intricate and very well built. It is a marvel how so many mechanical concepts were designed and assembled to transport a tape (which itself is a marvel) across record/playback heads. And it sounds great too. I was surprised at the sound quality, I have good turntables and CD equipment, but had forgotten in this age of tiny earphones and iPhone reproduction how good these old machines sound. Stay safe.
I Just bought a tc-366. the meters light up and the mic inputs work. it rewinds but the function knob doesn't turn to play or ff. also the speed knob doesn't switch. I am going to open it up and take a look. any ideas?
Among the best tutorials for this machine! Thank you! I recommend using the Rubber Renue only in a well-ventilated area. That’s toxic stuff! To your health!!🙂
@@SDsailor7 use sandpaper coarse then fine i wouldn't use rubber renew waist of money it opens the rubber by expanding it to release the grime but does not really renew it.
@@SDsailor7 You could use warm water with some dish soap with a microfiber cloth. it worked for me without sanding it takes the same amount rubber renew does just finish with the cloth with just warm water to get soap residue off. I think rubber renew is just marketing it does the exact same i think they just add a foul smell to it. You can do the same with pinch roller.
After watching this video I was able to get my Fathers TC-366 running. However I'm going to replace the belts because after sitting for so long the belts have been deformed and stretched. I'll watch your video on this while I'm doing that, thank you!
I worked for a company called Teletape tithe specialised in tape recorders. This was the best selling of the reel to reel recorders we sold. The Akai 4000 was a close second. The most common spare part we sold for this recorder, apart from the pins the held the tape cover in place, was the clutch mechanism which was the off white wheel with the metal three pronged steel spring wheel. The clutch mechanism was prone to wear and could be adjusted. Most engineers had problems remembering which washer went where because there were so many of them and the in the service manual it was hard to differentiate which washer went where and which way round they went. Nice job. I should service the ones I have and my TC 399
Hi Jeremy, Yes, there are lots of washers and as I wasn't the first person to look inside this machine, better information would have been useful. It's nice to know it's still working and playing tapes in 2019. That's says something about the build quality. Thank you for your comment and insights.
I had this very model back in the 1970’s and loved it. Unfortunately, the mechanism got screwed up and I didn’t know how to fix it. I got rid of it and went to cassettes. I would have loved to have rejuvenated it and kept using it, but I had no idea how to go about it and have never been good dealing with fiddly things and not breaking or losing them. I admire your patience and steady hands/nerves.
Very in depth, and informative. Took one apart, and its a house of cards. But thankfully, for this detailed video. I know I will fix it, I am watching like a hawk. Thank you, very much. 👍 ✴✴✴✴
had the video running, stop and start, while I dismantled the machine and rebuilding it. had been in the roof for 20 years. I have been agreeably surprised at the quality of the output from my stored tapes. I haven't degaussed the tape heads.
Yes they do sound good, I think we've got used to music coming out of cell phones, TV and lap tops and forgotten what music from a good tape machine (and HiFi) can sound like. Glad you got it running again. Cheers.
Excellent job, impressive attention to detail. One thing you did overlook - oiling the motor. If you look very carefully there is a tiny hole with the word "OIL" near the shaft on both ends of the motor. Add a couple of drops of oil here and the motor spins more smoothly.
@@dembydish Actually, after reviewing your video, I realized that the U.K. 50 Hz motor in your unit is slightly different from the U.S.A. 60 Hz motor in my recorder. So the oil holes may not be there on the 50 Hz motor.
i have 7 decks mostly akai and pioneers..I was AMAZED at Your prowess and ability...Wish You were near me in the US as I would ..Definately pay You handsomely to restore them all..God Bless..
Because of this video i was able to get the roght capacitor for my one. Got a little confused as the cap has 3 terminals where as replacements all have 2. But seen on this that two of theme are just bridged together
Just tearing Mine apart now Looks new inside but the speed goes from slow i keep stopping and starting changing speed and it will kick in sometimes ff rew seem to work ok Got to love how the vu light looks like a fuse :)
Excellent tutorial; my skill-set atm non-existent but will come back 2 this. Just got one that’s “been serviced”, pre-recorded music tape seems 2 play fine thru headphones, so I know that circuit’s good, it is in remarkable cosmetic condition, heads r pristine. Apparently these r a step up sonically from the Akai 4000 family. Gonna hook it up 2 my Kenwood TK-250U & explore ... what a gr8 Sat arvo spend, ay?! Might’ve gotten lucky✌️🤞✌️.. yes, that Rubber Renew I believe, kinda “revulcanises” the rubber BUT I’m warned not 2 overdo it as the rubber must remain firm .. maybe when it stops absorbing.
One thing I have done is use a small compartment box with numbers for each wheel or mech assembly. This way can keep the screws/washers together when re-assembling
Great tutorial I have just bought the last in this series but suspect from what I have read TC 399 will have much in common with yours. Looking forward to receiving the machine.
Hello, I do not fully understand your question, but it sounds like the tape machine does not lock in play position. This happens if the tape is not threaded around the auto stop lever properly. The tape from the left spool goes underneath the thin bar which hangs under the black erase head. Check this bar is hanging loose and moves freely. Look at video assembly at 45:29 to be sure you've got that fitting correct. Look at video at 55:10 to make sure that fitting is correct. Then it should work. Let me know.
Thanks for this video, it's a great help! I got a TC-366 from my grandfather and already replaced the motor cap a few years ago. Now the belts and the rest of the mechanics need an overhaul. Also, the R side doesn't record although the monitor shows there's audio... I hope to find this issue as well.
Thanks for your comment. I hope the video will be of help. If you feel so inclined please subscribe to help the channel grow. I am available to help if needed. Thank you for your interest.
Denbydish Refer to your video 18:02-18:06, there was a felt ring on the flywheel, mine is missing. I already remade it. I am wondering if I need to put oil on this ring when I put it back together. What is the purpose of this ring? You said it was a felt oil ring - I will assume that it needs to be fully oiled and it will keep the flywheel shaft lubricated. However, I read the manual, which states that this ring is for friction, it is not a felt oil ring. If it is meant to be for friction, then we should not put oil? Also, will the oil get to the tape if we put oil onto that felt ring? Can you please clarify this? That will be much appreciated. Great video! Thanks!
if you want to use the TC366 flat and use it then the felt ring stops the rod / flywheel grinding on the base and slowing the speed down i tried laying my tc366 flat instead of upright after changing the chassis but it put to much pressure on the all the mechanisms and yes i got the grinding put felt underneath and oiled it still messes it up as it should be a hard plastic material . that was after putting new belts on but takes up to much space laying it flat
This is a dumb question but I removed the 4 face screws and the front will not open. What am I missing? I don't want to force it. I did take off all the knobs. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I Serviced mine changed the the runtime cap and belts everything works perfect just wondering there is no mention of in service manual or user manual of oiling the motor so i am not going to risk it. A tip for the Power light switch on the TC 366 that will fail it's !.6V AC so a grain of wheat bulb i swapped it with a 2.1V LED 3 times the size and works perfect.
Thank you for the excellent and easy to understand video. I have one comment- When you reinstalled the idler wheel, it seems to me that you installed it upside down from how you removed it. It doesn't seem to make a difference, since yours is working fine. If you compare the idler wheel at 20:57 (where you flip it over) to 34:02, it looks (to me, anyway) that you've got the underside on the top now. Also, did you replace the oil washer? I didn't seem to have one when I removed my wheel. Thanks again.
Well observed! I looked at the timings you gave me and it seems you are correct. I'm not sure it makes a difference and I cannot be sure of the machines previous services. However, I would replace the oil ring. I think it was a piece of circular foam and add a drop of oil on the pad to keep the shaft lubricated. You could make something out of felt. Otherwise service it periodically with a drop of light oil. However... now you mention it, it makes sense to have the foam washer on the top, if the machine is used lying down. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you feel inclined. Best of luck with your restoration.
Hello, I would never have dared to dismantle my TC 377 and 378 without your very good tutorial.It's perfect, except that I did this operation because the right reel (on both devices) is rotating, but without vigor and doesn't have enough force to drive the belt (left reel), even after cleaning, greasing and changing the belts, and thinking about it for a few hours, I don't know what to do anymore. I'm sure you have the answer! Thank you for your help.
Hi Bernard, it is difficult to know without looking at the machine. However, id be looking to see if there is slippage on any rubber edged wheels while the machine is working. Applying a bit of pressure to them and see if it runs better. Use rubber renue as shown in the video may help. Alternately, it may appear that the motor is not providing enough force, and is bogging down under working conditions. A new run capacitor may help, and probably should be changed at this point anyway. Hope this helps diagnose. Please subscribe to help the channel grow, Good luck.
Very enjoyable. I could watch that for hours. I wished you'd tackle the Sony TC558 which were notorious for speed issues like dragging reels when they reach the end. They also had problems with their auto reverse which was controlled by a middle lever attached to the capstan.
Excellent video. Very informative. Only one question.......I also need to replace the pilot lamps for the VU meters. Where can I get them, and what is their voltage value ? Thank you so very much.
Hello, I've never replaced one. if you remove the bulb there might be some identification on it. You should be able read the voltage with a multimeter at the socket if you can get to it. Then it's just research after that. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Thank for your comment.
Thanks for the tutorial. When I put it back. The play button doesn’t click into place. So I monitor to a point so it does play but not clicked into place. How to fix this?
Hi Sir.I'm sorting TC266 but left tentioning 'y' bracket that presses against the left black wheel under the left spool seems to be toooo tight to let spool go all the way back down. Any ideas. Cheers
G'day Sir I just came across your clip and finally I found out how to replace the small belts. Got them all ready laying here on the shelf for years Thank you so much for doing the clip. I was wandering what type of grease you are using please Thank you so much Jack from Australia
Hi Jack from down under I'm glad you like the clip. The grease I use is called Super Lube, you can see what it looks like and the other products I used in this project at 21:41 in the video. I purchased mine on Amazon, it is probably available in Australia I think it's an American product. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe to help the channel grow.. Keep safe.
Hello Susan, I found this on eBay it is a felt pad used to stick to the bottom of chairs, wooden beds and table legs etc. to stop scratches to wooden floors. It is self adhesive about 3mm thick. I expect it's still available or something similar. Thick felt may also work. Hope this helps, please subscribe to help the channel grow. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thank you so much! I love your video which shows how to work on the tape player. I have bought everything you talked about except the felt and superglue. I have two machines to work on. I found a place that is sending me belts. I have had my machines worked on by two different people, and it did not look like they knew what they were doing. I did not have proper belts on, so the right belt broke 3 times. I pushed subscribe. Thank you very much!
Hello there, i got a TC 377 recently and it seems work but when recording it only records the right side of the line input. Also when monitoring the tape, there is a extremely loud hissing noise which is pretty annoying and making the machine kinda loose it’s purpose. Is it a problem of the tape itself or is there some internal problem I’m not aware of? I’d gladly appreciate some advice. Thank you for reading
Hello, sorry for the delay in replying. I think you are describing an electrical component problem. Possibly one or more capacitors need replacing. This is beyond the scope of my video which deals with the mechanical restoration. At this point you'd need to find a competent person who fixes old audio gear, There are such people, getting as rare as hens teeth. There are some who have UA-cam channels. It depends where you live. Sorry can't be more helpful, please let me know if you have any success. Subscribe if you feel inclined and good luck.
Great video. I am having difficulty in sourcing a replacement capacitor, even from Ducati in Rumania. Can you provide me with precise information for ordering one please?
Hello, it's been a while since I made this video, but if memory serves, if you're in the USA (110v) you'll need a 1.5 uf capacitor, if you're in Europe (240v) you'll need a 2uf capacitor. The capacitor voltage rating must exceed your wall outlet voltage, it doesn't matter by how much so up to 400v would be fine. Non polarised makes the job easier, attach the wires either way. Polarised attach + to + (and) - to -. In this case when taking the old one off, pay attention to existing wiring and duplicate. As to availability, eBay seemed to be the best source. If you can't get it locally, international sellers may be needed. I used a generic capacitor, nothing fancy, it works fine. Ducati are known for good caps but like all capacitors they fail eventually. These days you'll probably end up buying a Chinese one. They're a simple device that stores electrical charge to give the motor a bit of a boost to get it running. Hope this helps, please subscribe, and thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thanks so much. I think the fact I've been looking specifically for a 240v capacitor has limited my choices. I did wonder why there were so many 400v ones to choose from.
I just picked up a TC 277-4. I don’t think the four channel has anything to interfere with a cleaning. It’s basically the same machine. How long did it take you or did you do it in steps? did you use any contact cleaner on the pots? The original owner said that the belts were changed and it hadn’t been in storage since 2008 so I might not have to do the belts won’t know until they open it up. thanks for the video. I’m gonna take a lot of pictures.
Hello, you could try lowering (or moving up and down) the lock arm (right of selector) and try again. Other than that it will need some dissembling and looking at. Lubricant is always useful. Hope this helps.
Hello, may I please ask you a question about the SONY tc250a, perhaps you know if it can be fixed? The tape speed switch doesn't work, it pushes up for the 3 3/4, it won't stay in the down position, and it doesn't rotate the wheels (It does stay down with 7 1/2 speed). If press down the switch in the 3 3/4, the wheels rotate and audio plays. Can this be foxed? Thank you!
Thank you for your question. I don;t know the TC250A model, however, I'd say the problem is probably due to dried up lubrication. Most mechanical problems can be resolved assuming the parts are still there. New belts are a must too. Thank you for your comment.
Old age. It's a combination of old lubricant, tired belts, glazed rollers, best to service it first and take a fresh look to identify other issues if they persist. If you've already serviced it and it's still running slowly then further electronic diagnosis may be needed. Could be the motor needs lubricant or bearings. I'm not personally aware of any known vulnerability. Hope this helps.
I recently picked one of these up for €40. The belts are gone so I am going to replace those. This video is going to be very helpful. Thank you so much. The little VU meters light on mine doesn't work. Do you perhaps know what light to get for this machine? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for this video. Outstanding. I bought my TC-377 in the year of 1975. This month I bought two new belts (got non for the counter). I have done some disassembling and lubricating work. I have even dissambled the parts under the big plate (18:21 in your video). Now it’s one item left, that I can’t solve by myself. RWD don’t work! The reel to the left don’t rotate backwards. It works för play and FFW. If i rotate the right reel manually with a pen or simular. Then the left reel will rotate according to the speed I make to the right reel. Do you know if it is a break in the motor? Or what could it be? BR/ Mats
Hi friend, give me a tip. I picked up a tape recorder to repair it, but despite cleaning and lubricating it besides the belt change, it is slowed down. I tested the capacitor of the motor with capacimeter and it is great. In the engine pulley, it is stamped 0-60, I believe it is right because here in Brazil the frequency is 60 Hz. Thank you.
Check for oil on the pinch roller or flywheel drive spindle, clean with alcohol where they come together. Look for hardened and slipping rubber on idler wheel. Sounds like something is either slipping of binding in the drive mechanism. Review one item at a time. If the motor is turning , its not the capacitor and not likely the motor speed. You can run the tape player without the front cover to give you access to the mechanisms. Look at each part under working conditions to see if its operating OK.
Hello, could you help me? I have a problem with my TC-377, after recording it sounds very good, but after a few minutes the speed slows down, I'm recording in 19 cm 7 1/2. Could you tell me what could be happening? Thank you very much in advance
Hello, most likely the machine needs a service, proper lubrication and belts as per this video. I'm not sure there's any one particular cause that I can identify for you. Thank you for your comment.
@@janorodriguez883 I forgot to mention, the pinch roller and idler wheel are often the culprits for inconsistent speed on playback and recording. This is generally due to the rubber hardening and/or glazing over. Cleaning and the rubber restorative product shown may help. However rebuilding may be needed if too far gone. Belts at the time of recording were available on line and on ebay. There are specialist outlets in USA which may offer a better product, and offer roller rebuilding if you send them the original part. Best way is to Google the items for options. Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Omg you are amazing and very kind, it is possible that it is just cleaning, since it is as you say, the machine was stored for 30 years so it has not worked much and it looks great. But in any case, i will buy the belt set and change them. Thank you very much!
Hi, writing to you from India , do you have by any chance service manual of Sony TC 660 , I have 2 sony spool tape recoders , the other one is Sony TC350
Bonsoir , je reviens vers vous en espérant ne pas trop vous déranger ... j'ai terminé la restauration on dirait qu'il est neuf ! mais pourriez vous me dire si le porte bobine gauche est libre , (sans freinage ) en lecture ? lorsque la bande sur la bobine gauche est pleine , la lecture semble correcte , mais j'ai l'impression que lorsqu'elle est presque vide la lecture semble un peu ralentie ! ( il y a peu de couple et on peut ralentir facilement la lecture en effleurant la bobine gauche) . un peu comme si le frein sur la bobine gauche agissait davantage , quand la bobine est vide ! ( ce qui peut s'expliquer car il faut davantage de puissance en déroulant la bobine vide que sur la pleine ) . Mon problème n'est peut etre dû qu'au frottement du frein de la petite pièce blanche en plastique , il faut peut etre moins de pression , mais avec l'écrou excentriques difficile a régler! je voulais avoir votre avis , je ne sais pas si j'ai été assez clair dans mon explication ... en vous remerciant . (mon anglais est trop sommaire pour me lancer dans cette explication .
Hello. I have a Sony TC-366 and it have an idle issue. It used to work well on all speed but recently, the 7 1/4 speed is now slow but the other 2 speeds are working just fine. Can you tell me what the problem is. Thank you.
Hello Martin, without looking at the machine it is very difficult to say. However, i'd recommend new belts if they haven't been changed, belts loosing tension will slip. All the things I cover in the video contribute to the smooth running of the machine. Dried out lubrication slows things down and can put strain on the motor. My advice would be to follow the steps I outline and give it a thorough service. Please subscribe if you decide to. Thank you for your comment.
So is the TC-366 (3 speed 1971-1972) exactly the same as the TC-377 they put put in 1973? Any changes to the 377 through the 70's? There's a 3 speed TC-366 near me and I've been looking for a 377.
Hi Micheal, I'm not an expert or collector of these machines, but as I understand it, the main difference between the 366 and 377 is the recording/playback heads. The 377 being better quality. Perhaps someone else here can address the specifics. Both machines sound good when working properly. I've found the biggest variable in playback is the quality of the available tapes. Those recorded at faster speed being the best, but more expensive to produce and difficult to find. Hope this is of some use. Thank you for your question.
@@dembydish Thanks for the info. This also leads me to think that if I find a 366 that needs a little bit of work, it would be better off to mad it with 377 heads. I have a friend here who repairs and builds lots of Hi-Fi equipment including tape machines and builds all kinds of guitar effects pedals, cables, tube amps,etc.
When using Rubber Renue use rubber gloves and some sort of cartridge type breathing mask to stop you breathing in the fumes, lungs are hard to replace. 2uF 250V AC capacitors are available here in Australia and have terminals on top that can be soldered to. It's a bit messy the way you have replaced the motor start/run capacitor. I have repaired and refurbished four of these machines now and sold them on eBay. I have two more to work on but the returns on eBay were too small to spend the considerable effort required in repairing and refurbishing these one motor machines. The electronics is simple enough using only discrete transistors and standard passive components, no in house or hard to get IC's. The electronics power supply is a regulated 25V Dc supply. Capacitors can become leaky and high ESR in the supply. The rest of the electronics is hard to work on due to it's very compact nature. The easily downloaded service manual helps in repairing the mechanical side of this machine. There are required adjustments for the correct mechanical and electronic operation. A machine of this age really requires this to be done using the correct test equipment and test tapes. It was available in 1974 new, I was offered one duty free in Penang during my RAAF service in South East Asia. I declined and bought a TEAC 2300 as a 3 motor machine has better specs and lends itself for servicing over a single motor machine. Linkages and idler wheels are required when one motor is doing everything, and the extra loading causes a great deal of wow & flutter. I served in the RAAF as an electronics tech for several decades and still do repair work in retirement. ...Regards Robert
Hi Robert, thank you for your informative message. There's good information there for people visiting this page. Luckily for now this machine still sounds good and has no audible noise. While I do repair guitar amps, I have not got involved with the electronics in this deck. I have a nice ESR meter and some gear, so when the day comes i'll give it a whirl. No test tapes unfortunately, but I do what I can. Sounds like a good life in the RAAF. Thanks for stopping by and stay safe.
I bought the test tapes from Germany but you can make your own if you have a correctly aligned machine and a true RMS voltmeter like the HP 400E and an accurate stable sinewave signal generator or function generator. An oscilloscope helps as well. Analogue instruments are always best in servicing this sort of equipment over digital meters as you can see the peek as you align the record and reproduce head. If you don't have the equipment then you don't carry out this alignment procedure but an oscilloscope is handy to see the reproduced waveforms and distortion in them to some degree. A distortion analyser works best along with a wow and flutter meter. Yes I actually miss the life in the RAAF, I was young and fit and this you remember as you become older and wish for a new body. I am sure all humans go through this, those that make it to aged maturity. At the time you don't even think about it but time passes surely day by day , year by year then you wonder where it's all gone. Regards Robert
Hi Larry, I thought Liquid Wrench was a penetration oil for rusty parts? We have 3in1 oil which is a general purpose oil. I like the lighter sowing machine oil being good for delicate parts. Thanks for your comment. Please subscribe to help the channel grow.
great video ive put some new belts on my 377 it was working great before needing new belts now it plays slightly slow on 7.5 ips and is slow on the take up from start up. if i run it for a while so it warms up so to speak it gets better, any suggestions could this be just a duff drive belt or something else
Hello, its difficult to say without looking at the machine. However, old dried lubrication contributes to things dragging and not running up to speed. I'd be looking to lubricate the machine properly at this time. It is detailed in the video if you want to follow along. Please subscribe and keep safe. Thank you for your comment,
Hello Denbydish.....My capacitor seems to work fine as the motor fan turns but I need to clean and oil the main pulleys. The problem is the "lock pin's head" is not coming out, i keep sliding it but it wont come out of the slot even I move it both ways slider. Does the pin had needs to be pulled up or to unwind....Please help, looks like it will break. THANK YOU.
I found this one in flee market paid about 80 dollars. I tried with 19cm film and its not pulling. It pulls at 9.5 cm but sound is dragging because it does match the film. Can you tell me what could be the issue?
The machine needs to be serviced as per this video. The idler wheel is possibly slipping or the pinch roller has become glazed and hard. There are other reasons, belts are most likely stretched and should be replaced, the original grease has dried up and become sticky etc. The machine is old and most likely suffering from more than one age related issue which can be fixed. Watch the video to see how to mechanically service it. Hope this helps, thank you for your question.
@denbydish I'm searching for a reel table for a Sony TC 377, but can only find parts for a TC 366. Do you think the tables are interchangeable/compatible? Thanks for this video!
As far as I know the TC 366 is identical except without the ferrite heads. But... I've never worked on one and am basing this on comments below left by a viewer of this video. I think you could find images online and compare. Hope this helps, and please subscribe. Good luck.
super video thanks for sharing i wonder can you shed some light my machine will not stay in play FF or RW ive not taken it apart it just stopped working correctly. i can hold it in play if i just catch the transport control right and it balances just before FF so to speak then it plays is this problem fixable?
Thank you for your comment. I suggest checking that the tape is wound onto the machine correctly first and all the slack is taken out of the tape. Other than this, it is hard to know without inspection. I suggest you take the front off the machine and thread the tape on again and see if there is anything obvious, like slipping belts, or sticking mechanism. The belts most likely need replacement and may be loose, and at this stage it makes sense to clean and lubricate the machine as per the video. If you are feeling up to it, please subscribe and give it a go.
There is a switch (with a lever) that detects the presence of tape (called Motor Switch as it shuts power to the motor when the tape ends) and I bet it is not quite engaged. When you remove the cover over the 3 heads you will see a thin rod to the left to the Erase Head (the one closest to the left). You can push it up a bit (help the tape) while the tape is played and you should see the PLAY will stay engaged, but when you remove your finger from it it may stop. The causes of this malfunction may be numerous. It is a delicate mechanism and old grease that hardened may be one. You have to remove the font cover and investigate.
One of the best “how-to” videos I’ve seen on UA-cam. Detailed, good lighting/camera work, and well narrated. Thank you.
congratulations, fantastic work - this is huge help for me here in Whitehorse, Yukon working on 2 ancient TC-377 machines still used at Yukon Archives to listen to 40 - 50 year old tape material
@@bertcervo3014 I'm very pleased to be of help to you at the Yukon Archives. Best of luck with your project from the County of Essex in the UK.
Excellent video! I bought one of these at the Navy Exchange in Yokosuka, Japan back in '72. One of the channels stopped producing sound in the early '80's. I couldn't find anyone willing to work on it and I was not well versed at the time with working on electronics (that has since changed drastically and I have restored dozens of tape decks). Instead of keeping the machine until I had gained enough knowledge to repair it I foolishly tossed it in the trash bin. I am seriously considering getting another one just for nostalgia's sake. Your instructions will definitely be a help to me should I go ahead with the project.
Literally in the process of servicing a tc266.this video will really help. Thanks
Wow what a thorough video. I did a similar restoration video of my own TC377 but mine wasn’t as thorough as yours. Well done mate
Thank you Chris I appreciate your comment. Your channel looks interesting. Subscribed.
@@dembydish ah cheers bud you did a much better job of servicing your deck than me though I think lol 😂
I take what I said back one hour ago. This instruction (sounds like a bloke accent to me) just saved me from buying another recorder and/or 350.00 at the Sacramento repair store at 5800 Madison Avenue, Madison at Manzanita. I have a Sony TC 388 but the mechanics are the same as a TC377. Bless you.
Thanks for your comment. The mechanics are the same, I think it's just the recording/playback heads are different. Glad I could be of some use. Good luck.
This is a major restoration project - patience over several weeks is a must. Very enjoyable video, appreciated.
I have a Sony TC-645 which I have almost finished restoring, must have spent 30 - 40 hours on it already.
Thank you for the Terrys Rollers referral. This is VERY helpful. Great job on this video.
Wow - What a great restoration video. I've just bought myself a TC-377 for £90. It sort of works but levels are extremely low and mechanically well below par No wow & flutter that I can hear with my ancient ears but belts clearly slipping. So, now looking forward to many happy hours repeating your restoration work. Thanks so much for that. It's given me great confidence to do it and told me what materials to use & what to expect.
OMG LEFT HANDED THREAD! We have destroyed that button trying to get it off! Thank you for helping us keep our sanity.
I'm so grateful for this video. My father gave me his TC-366 which he purchased new in 1971 (identical in almost every respect to the TC-377 except no ferrite heads). I wore it out in my teenage years, but it got new heads and belts in the 80's, and after languishing for 2 decades my father gave it to me, and it languished for another decade. I recently decided to transfer some irreplaceable tapes to MP3, but the transport barely moved. Your video guided me through regreasing the entire transport mechanism (boy, the metal in this deck is solid, and it's much easier to work on than my Nakamichi CR1A cassette deck!). I spent a happy Saturday afternoon, and I'm pleased to say this deck now plays music flawlessly. The mechanisms are now silent, which they have not been since 1985. This was a long overdue service, and I did it by myself with your help! I had even considered buying a working reel-to-reel on ebay, paying the horrendous prices these items seem to command. Now, I'm wondering what my working unit will sell for once I finish my tape transfers.
Hello Jon, I appreciate your kind and informative comment and I am glad my video helped you through and you had excellent results, well done. Also, thank you for subscribing to my channel to help get the word out. Kind Regards.
I just picked up a TC-366 from eBay. I'm going to watch this 1,000 times. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind comment. I hope this helps with your restoration. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you feel so inclined. If you have questions I may be able to help. Best of luck.
Thank you for this video! I recently aquired a TC378 and I'll start restoring it soon, so these tips will definitely be useful!
Enjoyed watching this . I bought the TC 377 in 1977 of course. Lasted a good 10 years before the reel rubber band stretched . After moving a few times I forgot who I ever gave it to. Still have a couple tapes laying around from my bachelor days.
Just Picked up A pristine 733 and wow hear so much more than even on cds with it :)
Thanks so much for this great instructional video. It's given me the confidence to service my TC-377! I'll be watching 3 or 4 times, and ten having at it! With your video cued up of course!
You are most welcome. Good luck with your restoration endeavours. Thank you for your kind comment.
Love this video!🌟💯
I remember the ol reel to reels.
They are a rare and very cool find!
God bless✨️
I got one of these for free at the electronics recycling center. It works, but of course it needs a good cleaning, belts, etc. Thanks for doing this very detailed video!
You are welcome. I hope the video helps you through the process. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe to help the channel grow. Best of luck from the UK.
Great thorough work!
Glad you enjoyed it! Please subscribe.
Very nice and informative video! I bought a TC-377 recently and this helped me a lot when restoring mine.
And now to open up the machine I just purchased on ebay. It kind of works but has some issues. Thank you for this detailed video. Time to dig in!
Good luck and I hope the video gets you there. Thank you for your comment.
This is turning out to be a lifesaver for my 378 refit!!!
Hi Derk, thanks for your comment. I'm glad to be of help, please hit that subscribe button to help the channel grow. Good luck with your rebuild.
Thank you for this very complete video. I completed my tear down of a TC-377 for an inoperative speed selector switch, but after reassembly, the left reel wasn’t turning. I Removed the face and removed the left reel table and cleaned the shaft. Still had the issue.
I studied the mechanism but just couldn’t understand why the brake wasn’t releasing until I saw your video towards the end where you pointed out the correct position of the release lever. I am so great full that you cautioned everyone about the correct positioning of this release lever. Hopefully you will see this. Can you comment on the how the left reel table actually works. When I disassembled it and saw the two parts interlocked and then turned together. It seemed to me that it might be designed so that the top part would be mechanically raised to disengage the drive piece of plastic thus allowing the reel to spin, but I didn’t see any mechanical apparatus to do this.
So again, thank you for commenting on this critical installation point.
Thanks a Bunch, Master Sony San!
I succeeded in servicing my TC-377 mechanically with this clear instruction.
Your comments are very practical and the video is outstanding.
I couldn't get Rubber Renue in Holland so I used another rubber cleaner.
Seems to work fine.
But the recorder still doesn't record , so I have to look for an instruction to handle that.
Hope I will find something of your craft for this too.
Thank you for your response to the video. I am glad you found it useful. Please subscribe if you haven't already and good luck finding the electronic expertise you are looking for.
It seems a small thing, but at 58'10", your comment on the left handed thread: made things a lot easier!
I hope your restoration goes well. Thanks for your comment.
This is a really GREAT video! I've just spent quite a bit of today servicing and cleaning mine. Used to work on these in the early 90s, wish I'd kept hold of most of the ones I sold on given the recent price rises! These were domestic machines, but really really good ones. Take the front off and take a bit of time to appreciate just how well built these decks are... 1971 IIRC, and these weren't anywhere near the start of open reel Tapecorders for Sony, they produced many other R2Rs before this one! Akai did very similar fine engineering with their decks too... Lovely stuff! :)
So, I don't want to critise this video, which is a really good and easy to follow guide for these machines, but I need to make a few points. Firstly:
Screws - (50m38) Phillips and Pozidriv screws are quite different and are arguably (to some people) somewhat interchangeable, although really, they aren't! You can seriously damage either screwheads with the wrong driver, and you can damage the screwheads on this using Phillips or Pozidriv. This is a Japanese product so you can pretty much bet everything you own on every screw in this thing being a JIS screw. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) or JIS B1012 to give them their full name, are the screws with a little dot on the head next to the cross head. The lobes are a different shape/pitch to other cross headed screw so while a Phillips or Pozidriv might loosely fit, you could chew up the head of the screw if you slip, which you almost definitely will, because lobe pitch thing, yeah?
Main/first idler, the bottom one off of the motor - (34m00) It's been refitted upside down! Although it shouldn't make much difference, I'm afraid it is the wrong way up! The machined cup should surround the felt washer which I guess works like an oil wick...
The rainbowy (is that a word?) finish of the metal plates/parts - Galvinised steel plates. Because, of course it's galvinised. This is a very very well made machine!
Trapped wires under the front middle screw - Yes, mind these! I remember having to rewire a couple of similar machines back in the day...
Last thought, reinstalling the transport plate (the plate under the head block). If you have removed and refitted this, don't you love how it locks in place once it's there? Like, wiggle it around and suddenly it clicks into place and stays there! And, all this was designed before modern computers and CAD! Utterly mind blowing!
Thank you for your comments and for pointing out some valuable observations and tips. It seems you have experience with these machines. I tried to follow a common sense approach to the repairs, but to be honest had no previous experience with this machine. One thing is clear, the machine is intricate and very well built. It is a marvel how so many mechanical concepts were designed and assembled to transport a tape (which itself is a marvel) across record/playback heads. And it sounds great too. I was surprised at the sound quality, I have good turntables and CD equipment, but had forgotten in this age of tiny earphones and iPhone reproduction how good these old machines sound. Stay safe.
I Just bought a tc-366. the meters light up and the mic inputs work. it rewinds but the function knob doesn't turn to play or ff. also the speed knob doesn't switch. I am going to open it up and take a look. any ideas?
Thanks for the video. I have a TC 378 and restored it.
Among the best tutorials for this machine! Thank you! I recommend using the Rubber Renue only in a well-ventilated area. That’s toxic stuff! To your health!!🙂
Yes, we can't be too careful. Thanks for stopping by. Keep safe.
How good is the rubber renew?
My pinch roller has hardened and cleaning it with a brush has not helped.
And how do you apply it?
Thank you
@@SDsailor7 use sandpaper coarse then fine i wouldn't use rubber renew waist of money it opens the rubber by expanding it to release the grime but does not really renew it.
@@theprogrammerrolandmc3039 Thank you for the reply.
Cheers
@@SDsailor7 You could use warm water with some dish soap with a microfiber cloth. it worked for me without sanding it takes the same amount rubber renew does just finish with the cloth with just warm water to get soap residue off. I think rubber renew is just marketing it does the exact same i think they just add a foul smell to it. You can do the same with pinch roller.
After watching this video I was able to get my Fathers TC-366 running. However I'm going to replace the belts because after sitting for so long the belts have been deformed and stretched. I'll watch your video on this while I'm doing that, thank you!
You're welcome. Good luck with changing the belts.
I worked for a company called Teletape tithe specialised in tape recorders. This was the best selling of the reel to reel recorders we sold. The Akai 4000 was a close second.
The most common spare part we sold for this recorder, apart from the pins the held the tape cover in place, was the clutch mechanism which was the off white wheel with the metal three pronged steel spring wheel. The clutch mechanism was prone to wear and could be adjusted. Most engineers had problems remembering which washer went where because there were so many of them and the in the service manual it was hard to differentiate which washer went where and which way round they went.
Nice job. I should service the ones I have and my TC 399
Hi Jeremy, Yes, there are lots of washers and as I wasn't the first person to look inside this machine, better information would have been useful. It's nice to know it's still working and playing tapes in 2019. That's says something about the build quality. Thank you for your comment and insights.
@@dembydish Hi, I'm worried I'll take it apart and ruin it! Do you offer servicing at all? :)
Nice tutorial, it helped me service my one so thanks for posting.
Thank you for your comment. Glad I could be of help. If you feel so inclined please subscribe to help this channel grow. Best wishes.
I had this very model back in the 1970’s and loved it. Unfortunately, the mechanism got screwed up and I didn’t know how to fix it. I got rid of it and went to cassettes. I would have loved to have rejuvenated it and kept using it, but I had no idea how to go about it and have never been good dealing with fiddly things and not breaking or losing them. I admire your patience and steady hands/nerves.
Thank you for your comment. Getting on a bit now, hope the hands keep steady as I plod forward. If you feel so inclined, please subscribe. Stay safe.
Thankfully for this detaild tutorial. Very helpful for me during the restoration of my TC366. Thank you very much.
You are very welcome. Please subscribe if you wish to help the channel grow. Thank you for your comment.
I found the felt you mentioned and used it successfully on the part that holds the drive in pause. Thanks for your response, and a very helpful video.
You're welcome, I'm glad I could help.
Very in depth, and informative.
Took one apart, and its a house of cards.
But thankfully, for this detailed video.
I know I will fix it, I am watching like a hawk.
Thank you, very much. 👍 ✴✴✴✴
Hi Ralph, just curious did you get it fixed and back together? Thank you for your comment.
Thank you and I am inspired to take on my TC-366. Cheers!!
Brilliant video. Have now got a fully working TC377
Thank you for leaving your comment. I'm glad to be of help. I'm curious if you followed it whilst simultaneously fixing yours.
had the video running, stop and start, while I dismantled the machine and rebuilding it. had been in the roof for 20 years. I have been agreeably surprised at the quality of the output from my stored tapes. I haven't degaussed the tape heads.
Yes they do sound good, I think we've got used to music coming out of cell phones, TV and lap tops and forgotten what music from a good tape machine (and HiFi) can sound like. Glad you got it running again. Cheers.
Excellent job, impressive attention to detail. One thing you did overlook - oiling the motor. If you look very carefully there is a tiny hole with the word "OIL" near the shaft on both ends of the motor. Add a couple of drops of oil here and the motor spins more smoothly.
Excellent tip. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Actually, after reviewing your video, I realized that the U.K. 50 Hz motor in your unit is slightly different from the U.S.A. 60 Hz motor in my recorder. So the oil holes may not be there on the 50 Hz motor.
i have 7 decks mostly akai and pioneers..I was AMAZED at Your prowess and ability...Wish You were near me in the US as I would ..Definately pay You handsomely to restore them all..God Bless..
Well, many thanks Bill, I appreciate you kind comment. Kind regards from the UK.
Thanks for this great video. Very helpfull.
I've had a couple of these that I bought cheap because they didn't work.
Replaced the same cap you did and both times they worked.
Замечательная работа!!! Спасибо.
Because of this video i was able to get the roght capacitor for my one. Got a little confused as the cap has 3 terminals where as replacements all have 2. But seen on this that two of theme are just bridged together
Just tearing Mine apart now Looks new inside but the speed goes from slow i keep stopping and starting changing speed and it will kick in sometimes ff rew seem to work ok Got to love how the vu light looks like a fuse :)
Excellent tutorial; my skill-set atm non-existent but will come back 2 this. Just got one that’s “been serviced”, pre-recorded music tape seems 2 play fine thru headphones, so I know that circuit’s good, it is in remarkable cosmetic condition, heads r pristine. Apparently these r a step up sonically from the Akai 4000 family. Gonna hook it up 2 my Kenwood TK-250U & explore ... what a gr8 Sat arvo spend, ay?! Might’ve gotten lucky✌️🤞✌️.. yes, that Rubber Renew I believe, kinda “revulcanises” the rubber BUT I’m warned not 2 overdo it as the rubber must remain firm .. maybe when it stops absorbing.
I hope so! Good luck, thanks for stopping by.
One thing I have done is use a small compartment box with numbers for each wheel or mech assembly. This way can keep the screws/washers together when re-assembling
A good idea, anything that helps keep organised is a winner in my book. Thanks for your comment.
Great tutorial I have just bought the last in this series but suspect from what I have read TC 399 will have much in common with yours. Looking forward to receiving the machine.
Glad you liked the tutorial. Good luck with your TC 399. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks I’m gonna give this a shot
Hello, I do not fully understand your question, but it sounds like the tape machine does not lock in play position. This happens if the tape is not threaded around the auto stop lever properly. The tape from the left spool goes underneath the thin bar which hangs under the black erase head. Check this bar is hanging loose and moves freely. Look at video assembly at 45:29 to be sure you've got that fitting correct. Look at video at 55:10 to make sure that fitting is correct. Then it should work. Let me know.
Thanks for this video, it's a great help! I got a TC-366 from my grandfather and already replaced the motor cap a few years ago. Now the belts and the rest of the mechanics need an overhaul. Also, the R side doesn't record although the monitor shows there's audio... I hope to find this issue as well.
Thanks for your comment. I hope the video will be of help. If you feel so inclined please subscribe to help the channel grow. I am available to help if needed. Thank you for your interest.
Denbydish
Refer to your video 18:02-18:06, there was a felt ring on the flywheel, mine is missing. I already remade it. I am wondering if I need to put oil on this ring when I put it back together. What is the purpose of this ring? You said it was a felt oil ring - I will assume that it needs to be fully oiled and it will keep the flywheel shaft lubricated. However, I read the manual, which states that this ring is for friction, it is not a felt oil ring. If it is meant to be for friction, then we should not put oil? Also, will the oil get to the tape if we put oil onto that felt ring? Can you please clarify this? That will be much appreciated. Great video!
Thanks!
if you want to use the TC366 flat and use it then the felt ring stops the rod / flywheel grinding on the base and slowing the speed down i tried laying my tc366 flat instead of upright after changing the chassis but it put to much pressure on the all the mechanisms and yes i got the grinding put felt underneath and oiled it still messes it up as it should be a hard plastic material . that was after putting new belts on but takes up to much space laying it flat
Great video! I’ve just purchased a TC 366 BUT the panel and everything is upside down. If means that if it stands it is upside down. Really strange
thank you, very helpful
Excellent, a very useful guide, thanks.
This is a dumb question but I removed the 4 face screws and the front will not open. What am I missing? I don't want to force it. I did take off all the knobs. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I Serviced mine changed the the runtime cap and belts everything works perfect just wondering there is no mention of in service manual or user manual of oiling the motor so i am not going to risk it. A tip for the Power light switch on the TC 366 that will fail it's !.6V AC so a grain of wheat bulb i swapped it with a 2.1V LED 3 times the size and works perfect.
Thank you for the excellent and easy to understand video.
I have one comment- When you reinstalled the idler wheel, it seems to me that you installed it upside down from how you removed it. It doesn't seem to make a difference, since yours is working fine. If you compare the idler wheel at 20:57 (where you flip it over) to 34:02, it looks (to me, anyway) that you've got the underside on the top now.
Also, did you replace the oil washer? I didn't seem to have one when I removed my wheel.
Thanks again.
Well observed! I looked at the timings you gave me and it seems you are correct. I'm not sure it makes a difference and I cannot be sure of the machines previous services. However, I would replace the oil ring. I think it was a piece of circular foam and add a drop of oil on the pad to keep the shaft lubricated. You could make something out of felt. Otherwise service it periodically with a drop of light oil. However... now you mention it, it makes sense to have the foam washer on the top, if the machine is used lying down. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you feel inclined. Best of luck with your restoration.
Hello,
I would never have dared to dismantle my TC 377 and 378 without your very good tutorial.It's perfect, except that I did this operation because the right reel (on both devices) is rotating, but without vigor and doesn't have enough force to drive the belt (left reel), even after cleaning, greasing and changing the belts, and thinking about it for a few hours, I don't know what to do anymore. I'm sure you have the answer! Thank you for your help.
Hi Bernard, it is difficult to know without looking at the machine. However, id be looking to see if there is slippage on any rubber edged wheels while the machine is working. Applying a bit of pressure to them and see if it runs better. Use rubber renue as shown in the video may help. Alternately, it may appear that the motor is not providing enough force, and is bogging down under working conditions. A new run capacitor may help, and probably should be changed at this point anyway. Hope this helps diagnose. Please subscribe to help the channel grow, Good luck.
Very enjoyable. I could watch that for hours. I wished you'd tackle the Sony TC558 which were notorious for speed issues like dragging reels when they reach the end. They also had problems with their auto reverse which was controlled by a middle lever attached to the capstan.
Thank you for your kind comment. I'll take a look at the TC558 on Google, i'm not familiar with the model. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers.
Отличная работа👍
Very nice video ! Thanks
Tengo uno igual .le voy hacer mantenimiento gracias a su video. Gracias👍
You are welcome.
Excellent video. Very informative. Only one question.......I also need to replace the pilot lamps for the VU meters. Where can I get them, and what is their voltage value ? Thank you so very much.
Hello, I've never replaced one. if you remove the bulb there might be some identification on it. You should be able read the voltage with a multimeter at the socket if you can get to it. Then it's just research after that. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Thank for your comment.
Trying to sort mine out..the speed goes up and down....cleaned all pulleys and stuff so I'll try a belt kit.maybe a motor cap too
Are you going to list and link where you got the parts from? especially the motor run cap/
Just like brand new again!
Thanks for the tutorial. When I put it back. The play button doesn’t click into place. So I monitor to a point so it does play but not clicked into place. How to fix this?
Cannot get the clamp back on the idler wheel after disassembly. What should I do
Hi Sir.I'm sorting TC266 but left tentioning 'y' bracket that presses against the left black wheel under the left spool seems to be toooo tight to let spool go all the way back down. Any ideas. Cheers
Thank You, Well Done. Just found one. Will need belts replaced and won't lock in to play.
Good luck with your restoration.
G'day Sir I just came across your clip and finally I found out how to replace the small belts. Got them all ready laying here on the shelf for years Thank you so much for doing the clip. I was wandering what type of grease you are using please Thank you so much Jack from Australia
Hi Jack from down under I'm glad you like the clip. The grease I use is called Super Lube, you can see what it looks like and the other products I used in this project at 21:41 in the video. I purchased mine on Amazon, it is probably available in Australia I think it's an American product. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe to help the channel grow.. Keep safe.
@@dembydish Thank you so much for your fast reply I will try to get some of it and will let you know how I got on with it Cheers
@@dembydish just found some here in Australia
Where can I find the same material which you used for your brake pads? I have everything except that.
Hello Susan, I found this on eBay it is a felt pad used to stick to the bottom of chairs, wooden beds and table legs etc. to stop scratches to wooden floors. It is self adhesive about 3mm thick. I expect it's still available or something similar. Thick felt may also work. Hope this helps, please subscribe to help the channel grow. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thank you so much! I love your video which shows how to work on the tape player. I have bought everything you talked about except the felt and superglue. I have two machines to work on. I found a place that is sending me belts. I have had my machines worked on by two different people, and it did not look like they knew what they were doing. I did not have proper belts on, so the right belt broke 3 times. I pushed subscribe. Thank you very much!
Hello there, i got a TC 377 recently and it seems work but when recording it only records the right side of the line input. Also when monitoring the tape, there is a extremely loud hissing noise which is pretty annoying and making the machine kinda loose it’s purpose. Is it a problem of the tape itself or is there some internal problem I’m not aware of? I’d gladly appreciate some advice.
Thank you for reading
Hello, sorry for the delay in replying. I think you are describing an electrical component problem. Possibly one or more capacitors need replacing. This is beyond the scope of my video which deals with the mechanical restoration. At this point you'd need to find a competent person who fixes old audio gear, There are such people, getting as rare as hens teeth. There are some who have UA-cam channels. It depends where you live. Sorry can't be more helpful, please let me know if you have any success. Subscribe if you feel inclined and good luck.
Great video. I am having difficulty in sourcing a replacement capacitor, even from Ducati in Rumania. Can you provide me with precise information for ordering one please?
Hello, it's been a while since I made this video, but if memory serves, if you're in the USA (110v) you'll need a 1.5 uf capacitor, if you're in Europe (240v) you'll need a 2uf capacitor. The capacitor voltage rating must exceed your wall outlet voltage, it doesn't matter by how much so up to 400v would be fine. Non polarised makes the job easier, attach the wires either way. Polarised attach + to + (and) - to -. In this case when taking the old one off, pay attention to existing wiring and duplicate. As to availability, eBay seemed to be the best source. If you can't get it locally, international sellers may be needed. I used a generic capacitor, nothing fancy, it works fine. Ducati are known for good caps but like all capacitors they fail eventually. These days you'll probably end up buying a Chinese one. They're a simple device that stores electrical charge to give the motor a bit of a boost to get it running. Hope this helps, please subscribe, and thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thanks so much. I think the fact I've been looking specifically for a 240v capacitor has limited my choices. I did wonder why there were so many 400v ones to choose from.
Hello, will the capacitor fit the Sony TS 399 model?
I just picked up a TC 277-4. I don’t think the four channel has anything to interfere with a cleaning. It’s basically the same machine. How long did it take you or did you do it in steps? did you use any contact cleaner on the pots? The original owner said that the belts were changed and it hadn’t been in storage since 2008 so I might not have to do the belts won’t know until they open it up. thanks for the video. I’m gonna take a lot of pictures.
Does this rtr have those infamous IC's?
Hello, I have an issue with the speed selector. Seems to be seized. Very little movement. Any idea if it needs to be oiled??
Hello, you could try lowering (or moving up and down) the lock arm (right of selector) and try again. Other than that it will need some dissembling and looking at. Lubricant is always useful. Hope this helps.
Thank you for a great video!
You are welcome! Please subscribe to help get the information out to others. Keep safe and thank you for your comment.
Hello, may I please ask you a question about the SONY tc250a, perhaps you know if it can be fixed? The tape speed switch doesn't work, it pushes up for the 3 3/4, it won't stay in the down position, and it doesn't rotate the wheels (It does stay down with 7 1/2 speed). If press down the switch in the 3 3/4, the wheels rotate and audio plays. Can this be foxed? Thank you!
Thank you for your question. I don;t know the TC250A model, however, I'd say the problem is probably due to dried up lubrication. Most mechanical problems can be resolved assuming the parts are still there. New belts are a must too. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thanks!
Is there a known vulnerability making the TC377 to run slightly slow?
Old age. It's a combination of old lubricant, tired belts, glazed rollers, best to service it first and take a fresh look to identify other issues if they persist. If you've already serviced it and it's still running slowly then further electronic diagnosis may be needed. Could be the motor needs lubricant or bearings. I'm not personally aware of any known vulnerability. Hope this helps.
motor run capacitor you can replace it super cheap and easy to do this video will show you what you need ua-cam.com/video/M2s9SPE8diI/v-deo.html
I recently picked one of these up for €40. The belts are gone so I am going to replace those. This video is going to be very helpful. Thank you so much. The little VU meters light on mine doesn't work. Do you perhaps know what light to get for this machine? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for this video. Outstanding. I bought my TC-377 in the year of 1975.
This month I bought two new belts (got non for the counter). I have done some disassembling and lubricating work. I have even dissambled the parts under the big plate (18:21 in your video). Now it’s one item left, that I can’t solve by myself. RWD don’t work!
The reel to the left don’t rotate backwards. It works för play and FFW. If i rotate the right reel manually with a pen or simular. Then the left reel will rotate according to the speed I make to the right reel. Do you know if it is a break in the motor? Or what could it be? BR/ Mats
Hi friend, give me a tip. I picked up a tape recorder to repair it, but despite cleaning and lubricating it besides the belt change, it is slowed down. I tested the capacitor of the motor with capacimeter and it is great. In the engine pulley, it is stamped 0-60, I believe it is right because here in Brazil the frequency is 60 Hz. Thank you.
Check for oil on the pinch roller or flywheel drive spindle, clean with alcohol where they come together. Look for hardened and slipping rubber on idler wheel. Sounds like something is either slipping of binding in the drive mechanism. Review one item at a time. If the motor is turning , its not the capacitor and not likely the motor speed. You can run the tape player without the front cover to give you access to the mechanisms. Look at each part under working conditions to see if its operating OK.
Hello, could you help me? I have a problem with my TC-377, after recording it sounds very good, but after a few minutes the speed slows down, I'm recording in 19 cm 7 1/2. Could you tell me what could be happening? Thank you very much in advance
Hello, most likely the machine needs a service, proper lubrication and belts as per this video. I'm not sure there's any one particular cause that I can identify for you. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thanks for answering, can you tell me where to get the set of belts? by the way, great explanatory video, congratulations
@@janorodriguez883 I forgot to mention, the pinch roller and idler wheel are often the culprits for inconsistent speed on playback and recording. This is generally due to the rubber hardening and/or glazing over. Cleaning and the rubber restorative product shown may help. However rebuilding may be needed if too far gone. Belts at the time of recording were available on line and on ebay. There are specialist outlets in USA which may offer a better product, and offer roller rebuilding if you send them the original part. Best way is to Google the items for options. Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Omg you are amazing and very kind, it is possible that it is just cleaning, since it is as you say, the machine was stored for 30 years so it has not worked much and it looks great. But in any case, i will buy the belt set and change them. Thank you very much!
Hi, writing to you from India , do you have by any chance service manual of Sony TC 660 , I have 2 sony spool tape recoders , the other one is Sony TC350
Yellow VU all down to-20-40db? Wondering why its not green up to-5db.
Bonsoir , je reviens vers vous en espérant ne pas trop vous déranger ... j'ai terminé la restauration on dirait qu'il est neuf ! mais pourriez vous me dire si le porte bobine gauche est libre , (sans freinage ) en lecture ? lorsque la bande sur la bobine gauche est pleine , la lecture semble correcte , mais j'ai l'impression que lorsqu'elle est presque vide la lecture semble un peu ralentie ! ( il y a peu de couple et on peut ralentir facilement la lecture en effleurant la bobine gauche) . un peu comme si le frein sur la bobine gauche agissait davantage , quand la bobine est vide ! ( ce qui peut s'expliquer car il faut davantage de puissance en déroulant la bobine vide que sur la pleine ) . Mon problème n'est peut etre dû qu'au frottement du frein de la petite pièce blanche en plastique , il faut peut etre moins de pression , mais avec l'écrou excentriques difficile a régler! je voulais avoir votre avis , je ne sais pas si j'ai été assez clair dans mon explication ... en vous remerciant . (mon anglais est trop sommaire pour me lancer dans cette explication .
Do you mind to share where you got the replacement belts?
they're all over eBay
Hello. I have a Sony TC-366 and it have an idle issue. It used to work well on all speed but recently, the 7 1/4 speed is now slow but the other 2 speeds are working just fine. Can you tell me what the problem is. Thank you.
Hello Martin, without looking at the machine it is very difficult to say. However, i'd recommend new belts if they haven't been changed, belts loosing tension will slip. All the things I cover in the video contribute to the smooth running of the machine. Dried out lubrication slows things down and can put strain on the motor. My advice would be to follow the steps I outline and give it a thorough service. Please subscribe if you decide to. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for your answer. I will follow your advice and get the belts replaced.
I have the unti, but it doesn't play forward or engage record, only reverse, any suggestions where to turn to on the video?
So is the TC-366 (3 speed 1971-1972) exactly the same as the TC-377 they put put in 1973? Any changes to the 377 through the 70's? There's a 3 speed TC-366 near me and I've been looking for a 377.
Hi Micheal, I'm not an expert or collector of these machines, but as I understand it, the main difference between the 366 and 377 is the recording/playback heads. The 377 being better quality. Perhaps someone else here can address the specifics. Both machines sound good when working properly. I've found the biggest variable in playback is the quality of the available tapes. Those recorded at faster speed being the best, but more expensive to produce and difficult to find. Hope this is of some use. Thank you for your question.
@@dembydish Thanks for the info. This also leads me to think that if I find a 366 that needs a little bit of work, it would be better off to mad it with 377 heads. I have a friend here who repairs and builds lots of Hi-Fi equipment including tape machines and builds all kinds of guitar effects pedals, cables, tube amps,etc.
When using Rubber Renue use rubber gloves and some sort of cartridge type breathing mask to stop you breathing in the fumes, lungs are hard to replace. 2uF 250V AC capacitors are available here in Australia and have terminals on top that can be soldered to. It's a bit messy the way you have replaced the motor start/run capacitor. I have repaired and refurbished four of these machines now and sold them on eBay. I have two more to work on but the returns on eBay were too small to spend the considerable effort required in repairing and refurbishing these one motor machines. The electronics is simple enough using only discrete transistors and standard passive components, no in house or hard to get IC's. The electronics power supply is a regulated 25V Dc supply. Capacitors can become leaky and high ESR in the supply. The rest of the electronics is hard to work on due to it's very compact nature. The easily downloaded service manual helps in repairing the mechanical side of this machine. There are required adjustments for the correct mechanical and electronic operation. A machine of this age really requires this to be done using the correct test equipment and test tapes. It was available in 1974 new, I was offered one duty free in Penang during my RAAF service in South East Asia. I declined and bought a TEAC 2300 as a 3 motor machine has better specs and lends itself for servicing over a single motor machine. Linkages and idler wheels are required when one motor is doing everything, and the extra loading causes a great deal of wow & flutter. I served in the RAAF as an electronics tech for several decades and still do repair work in retirement. ...Regards Robert
Hi Robert, thank you for your informative message. There's good information there for people visiting this page. Luckily for now this machine still sounds good and has no audible noise. While I do repair guitar amps, I have not got involved with the electronics in this deck. I have a nice ESR meter and some gear, so when the day comes i'll give it a whirl. No test tapes unfortunately, but I do what I can. Sounds like a good life in the RAAF. Thanks for stopping by and stay safe.
I bought the test tapes from Germany but you can make your own if you have a correctly aligned machine and a true RMS voltmeter like the HP 400E and an accurate stable sinewave signal generator or function generator. An oscilloscope helps as well. Analogue instruments are always best in servicing this sort of equipment over digital meters as you can see the peek as you align the record and reproduce head. If you don't have the equipment then you don't carry out this alignment procedure but an oscilloscope is handy to see the reproduced waveforms and distortion in them to some degree. A distortion analyser works best along with a wow and flutter meter.
Yes I actually miss the life in the RAAF, I was young and fit and this you remember as you become older and wish for a new body. I am sure all humans go through this, those that make it to aged maturity. At the time you don't even think about it but time passes surely day by day , year by year then you wonder where it's all gone.
Regards Robert
is there something over there similar to liquid wrench? that would work on those machines
Hi Larry, I thought Liquid Wrench was a penetration oil for rusty parts? We have 3in1 oil which is a general purpose oil. I like the lighter sowing machine oil being good for delicate parts. Thanks for your comment. Please subscribe to help the channel grow.
@@dembydish i used liquid wrench to dissolve dry hard grease on a Magnavox changer when the auto cycling parts wouldn't move and it worked
great video ive put some new belts on my 377 it was working great before needing new belts now it plays slightly slow on 7.5 ips and is slow on the take up from start up. if i run it for a while so it warms up so to speak it gets better, any suggestions could this be just a duff drive belt or something else
Hello, its difficult to say without looking at the machine. However, old dried lubrication contributes to things dragging and not running up to speed. I'd be looking to lubricate the machine properly at this time. It is detailed in the video if you want to follow along. Please subscribe and keep safe. Thank you for your comment,
Help Me please ! Where can I get a magnetic capsule protective plastic plate? for Sony TC-377
Hello Denbydish.....My capacitor seems to work fine as the motor fan turns but I need to clean and oil the main pulleys. The problem is the "lock pin's head" is not coming out, i keep sliding it but it wont come out of the slot even I move it both ways slider. Does the pin had needs to be pulled up or to unwind....Please help, looks like it will break. THANK YOU.
I found this one in flee market paid about 80 dollars. I tried with 19cm film and its not pulling. It pulls at 9.5 cm but sound is dragging because it does match the film. Can you tell me what could be the issue?
The machine needs to be serviced as per this video. The idler wheel is possibly slipping or the pinch roller has become glazed and hard. There are other reasons, belts are most likely stretched and should be replaced, the original grease has dried up and become sticky etc. The machine is old and most likely suffering from more than one age related issue which can be fixed. Watch the video to see how to mechanically service it. Hope this helps, thank you for your question.
@denbydish I'm searching for a reel table for a Sony TC 377, but can only find parts for a TC 366. Do you think the tables are interchangeable/compatible? Thanks for this video!
As far as I know the TC 366 is identical except without the ferrite heads. But... I've never worked on one and am basing this on comments below left by a viewer of this video. I think you could find images online and compare. Hope this helps, and please subscribe. Good luck.
super video thanks for sharing i wonder can you shed some light my machine will not stay in play FF or RW ive not taken it apart it just stopped working correctly. i can hold it in play if i just catch the transport control right and it balances just before FF so to speak then it plays is this problem fixable?
Thank you for your comment. I suggest checking that the tape is wound onto the machine correctly first and all the slack is taken out of the tape. Other than this, it is hard to know without inspection. I suggest you take the front off the machine and thread the tape on again and see if there is anything obvious, like slipping belts, or sticking mechanism. The belts most likely need replacement and may be loose, and at this stage it makes sense to clean and lubricate the machine as per the video. If you are feeling up to it, please subscribe and give it a go.
There is a switch (with a lever) that detects the presence of tape (called Motor Switch as it shuts power to the motor when the tape ends) and I bet it is not quite engaged. When you remove the cover over the 3 heads you will see a thin rod to the left to the Erase Head (the one closest to the left). You can push it up a bit (help the tape) while the tape is played and you should see the PLAY will stay engaged, but when you remove your finger from it it may stop. The causes of this malfunction may be numerous. It is a delicate mechanism and old grease that hardened may be one. You have to remove the font cover and investigate.