@@ghenzz I totally agree... I'm going to bring it up at the race this weekend. Even if we just paint the PVC gutter pieces that are used for the outer barrier. Part of the problem is that the lines on the pavement are recently painted so they really stand out. Thanks for sending the link... I checked out your channel and saw the mini races. I've got one of those cars and it's still in the box. After watching, I've got to get mine out and set up a table-top track. Thanks for watching! I hope you'll check out more of my videos. CJ
Just watched the entire series… it definitely helped me make decision to go with the S64 on my VTA build.. my chassis kit should be here mid week.. where did you find the multiple setup sheet info. So far I have found nothing other than one in manual.
That's oversteer... oversteer is when the rear is loose, either when the rear breaks before the front, or induced by power. Understeer is when the front end plows, you turn the wheels and the car still goes strait. Yes, the lines are confusing... they made it hard to identify breaking points and were a general pain. Part of the problem with the oversteer is in the class rules VTA requires you to use tires made by one specific company. Also, there is a lot of pollen on the ground. The organizer uses a gas powered blower to clean debris off the lot before laying out the track, but there was still a lot of yellow dust on the chassis after each run... it definitely reduces traction. Since doing the original setup per the directions, I've gone down in stiffness three times in the rear springs and am running the thinnest rear sway bar and the thickest front sway bar getting the rear end to hook up better. It was hooking up better in the later heats.
Nice vid. I'm gonna be getting into vta with one of these. What tooth pinion did you go with? I'm having a hard time figuring that out for 25.5t. I'll be on indoor carpet so probably smaller track. One thing I don't quite understand about the vta rules is that it doesn't mention gearing or mph. I have no idea if I should Gear it to go 25mph, 30mph, etc...
You want to gear the car to go as fast as possible while still completing the race time AND not overheating the motor and/or ESC. Get a cheap IR thermometer... Amazon is a good place to look, under $15-$20. Overheating is the biggest problem... run a few laps and check the motor and ESC to see how hot they are getting. My first day out, I changed the pinion several times but your best place to start is to ask what people are running at your track. Having enough acceleration is also important... more so on indoor carpet tracks versus big outdoor tracks. Our club is also racing 1/8 GT cars so the corners aren't as tight and the straights are longer. For acceleration, you want a smaller pinion. Also, you don't want to gear the car for more speed than you can use at your track... in other words, if the motor isn't nearing max RPM by the end of the longest straight away, you need to go down in pinion size. Sorry I can't give you the "magic" gear, but your best bet is to ask at your track, and then get that gear... and get a couple pinions above and below that number of teeth, get an IR thermometer, test, take notes and find what works best for your car and your style of driving. Regards, CJ
Nice to see you out racing , but white course boundary markers along with white parking space markers made it awfully difficult to see the track in the video. Looking forward to more racing or flying videos.
You think it's bad in the video, try picking your breaking points in that clutter! I blame at least half of my mishaps and off course excursions on the optically confusing course. I'm going to talk to the race organizer about painting the barriers yellow or orange or some contrasting color. It doesn't have to be perfect, one light coat would do. It was nice to get back to racing. I brought my F1, but had a steering issue AGAIN! That car has been a bain of my racing efforts. About half the times I've brought it to the track, it doesn't get run. Well, I bought the 2021 Xray F1 kit and the 2021 touring car chassis. The touring car will be set up to run USGT. It's another motor limited class like VTA but it's a bit faster. You have to buy a 21.5T motor from a specific manufacturer... so everyone is running the exact same motor with no timing adjustments, either mechanical or through the ESC... ESCs are "blinky" mode only. I've been wanting to get an Xray for a long time. They are at the top of the high end market as far as technology and materials development go. And, they have amazing tech support. Just look at all the information they provide on their kits... and the level of tunability is amazing! Add a couple screws here to stiffen, remove a few to loosen... three sets of mounting holes for the front suspension to change the wheelbase by as much as 8mm! And many of the tuning parts are included. teamxray.com/x1/2021/#1
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Wow, that is mega info it seems to cover everything. But anybody buying that will probably need Toto Wolfe and all his Mercedes F1 mechanics to set it up not to mention a very large wallet to buy it. 👍
@@geordienufc3132 Very funny! Did you watch the race at Monaco too? Thank god for the invention of DVR, I watched it this afternoon. Xray's kits are definitely expensive, but not as much as you mite think... for example, the Yokomo touring car kit is several hundred dollars more than the Xray. As far as needing a team to do setup, the literature on the car tells you exactly what setting so use for varying levels of traction. Xray also has a web portal for news and product updates. They have a database of setup sheets and they state that "If you have any questions, problems, or comments, you can ask the XRAY Support Team or any XRAY Factory Team Driver on the XRAY Support Forum." Now that's an impressive level of support. I assume that you have to prove ownership to get access to the online resources.
That's correct... covid forced a change of venue for, I think 2 years, but as of last year, they are back at the HS parking lot in Manassas. RCRNV Radio Control Racers of Northern Virginia. May 29 is the first day of the summer race season. Here's a link to their facebook page. facebook.com/groups/80575954224 It's a really nice group of guys and it's always a good time. Hopefully I'll see you at one of the races. If you see me there, please stop by my tent and say hello! I apologize for the late reply. I lost my father before Thanksgiving and dropped into a dark pit that I had a really hard time climbing out of it... I hope to be posting new videos in a week or so. Regards, CJ
I'm considering getting into RC and this sounds like a fun, beginner friendly class to try. What determines the winner of a heat? I noticed the race was timed.
Most laps in the allotted time wins the heat. VTS and USGT are the best beginner classes for the touring car chassis'. Now, I don't know where you live and USGT is a North America specific class... there is probably a european equivalent. USGT is a bit faster, but it's still a highly restricted class... one motor by one manufacturer, specific wheels and tires, "blinky" esc, etc. In other words, a more or less level playing field but a slightly faster motor than VTA, the tires have more grip, and the bodies are more aero. If you're a total beginner, you might want to start with VTA for a season or two, then either upgrade your car to USGT, or build a new car for USGT and continue to race VTA as well as USGT... depending on your budget.
That's not totally true... the organizer of the club I race with uses old firehose to line the inner lanes and lengths of PVC gutter to line the outer edge of the course. If you go over that, or get hung up on the heavy firehose, you usually can't get back on track again without help from a corner marshal... and if they aren't close at hand, you can lose most of a lap. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
Nice.
Thanks for watching!
So much white lines! I cant see the track haha, nice racing.
Yeah, it was really hard to spot breaking points, especially on the back strait.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott they shoud paint those hoses, check out our track, made from PVC you tube gensapalicio ua-cam.com/video/SqYeR4aWTP0/v-deo.html
@@ghenzz I totally agree... I'm going to bring it up at the race this weekend. Even if we just paint the PVC gutter pieces that are used for the outer barrier. Part of the problem is that the lines on the pavement are recently painted so they really stand out.
Thanks for sending the link... I checked out your channel and saw the mini races. I've got one of those cars and it's still in the box. After watching, I've got to get mine out and set up a table-top track.
Thanks for watching! I hope you'll check out more of my videos.
CJ
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott likewise sir, enjoy racing.
Just watched the entire series… it definitely helped me make decision to go with the S64 on my VTA build.. my chassis kit should be here mid week..
where did you find the multiple setup sheet info. So far I have found nothing other than one in manual.
Is it me or does it look like driving a 2wd? Understeer? Or is it just the tires? Wish the track had a different color outlining lol.
That's oversteer... oversteer is when the rear is loose, either when the rear breaks before the front, or induced by power. Understeer is when the front end plows, you turn the wheels and the car still goes strait.
Yes, the lines are confusing... they made it hard to identify breaking points and were a general pain.
Part of the problem with the oversteer is in the class rules VTA requires you to use tires made by one specific company. Also, there is a lot of pollen on the ground.
The organizer uses a gas powered blower to clean debris off the lot before laying out the track, but there was still a lot of yellow dust on the chassis after each run... it definitely reduces traction.
Since doing the original setup per the directions, I've gone down in stiffness three times in the rear springs and am running the thinnest rear sway bar and the thickest front sway bar getting the rear end to hook up better. It was hooking up better in the later heats.
Nice vid. I'm gonna be getting into vta with one of these. What tooth pinion did you go with? I'm having a hard time figuring that out for 25.5t. I'll be on indoor carpet so probably smaller track. One thing I don't quite understand about the vta rules is that it doesn't mention gearing or mph. I have no idea if I should Gear it to go 25mph, 30mph, etc...
You want to gear the car to go as fast as possible while still completing the race time AND not overheating the motor and/or ESC. Get a cheap IR thermometer... Amazon is a good place to look, under $15-$20. Overheating is the biggest problem... run a few laps and check the motor and ESC to see how hot they are getting. My first day out, I changed the pinion several times but your best place to start is to ask what people are running at your track. Having enough acceleration is also important... more so on indoor carpet tracks versus big outdoor tracks. Our club is also racing 1/8 GT cars so the corners aren't as tight and the straights are longer. For acceleration, you want a smaller pinion. Also, you don't want to gear the car for more speed than you can use at your track... in other words, if the motor isn't nearing max RPM by the end of the longest straight away, you need to go down in pinion size. Sorry I can't give you the "magic" gear, but your best bet is to ask at your track, and then get that gear... and get a couple pinions above and below that number of teeth, get an IR thermometer, test, take notes and find what works best for your car and your style of driving.
Regards,
CJ
Nice to see you out racing , but white course boundary markers along with white parking space markers made it awfully difficult to see the track in the video. Looking forward to more racing or flying videos.
You think it's bad in the video, try picking your breaking points in that clutter! I blame at least half of my mishaps and off course excursions on the optically confusing course. I'm going to talk to the race organizer about painting the barriers yellow or orange or some contrasting color. It doesn't have to be perfect, one light coat would do. It was nice to get back to racing. I brought my F1, but had a steering issue AGAIN! That car has been a bain of my racing efforts. About half the times I've brought it to the track, it doesn't get run.
Well, I bought the 2021 Xray F1 kit and the 2021 touring car chassis. The touring car will be set up to run USGT. It's another motor limited class like VTA but it's a bit faster. You have to buy a 21.5T motor from a specific manufacturer... so everyone is running the exact same motor with no timing adjustments, either mechanical or through the ESC... ESCs are "blinky" mode only. I've been wanting to get an Xray for a long time. They are at the top of the high end market as far as technology and materials development go. And, they have amazing tech support. Just look at all the information they provide on their kits... and the level of tunability is amazing! Add a couple screws here to stiffen, remove a few to loosen... three sets of mounting holes for the front suspension to change the wheelbase by as much as 8mm! And many of the tuning parts are included.
teamxray.com/x1/2021/#1
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott
Wow, that is mega info it seems to cover everything. But anybody buying that will probably need Toto Wolfe and all his Mercedes F1 mechanics to set it up not to mention a very large wallet to buy it. 👍
@@geordienufc3132 Very funny! Did you watch the race at Monaco too? Thank god for the invention of DVR, I watched it this afternoon.
Xray's kits are definitely expensive, but not as much as you mite think... for example, the Yokomo touring car kit is several hundred dollars more than the Xray.
As far as needing a team to do setup, the literature on the car tells you exactly what setting so use for varying levels of traction.
Xray also has a web portal for news and product updates. They have a database of setup sheets and they state that "If you have any questions, problems, or comments, you can ask the XRAY Support Team or any XRAY Factory Team Driver on the XRAY Support Forum."
Now that's an impressive level of support. I assume that you have to prove ownership to get access to the online resources.
Nice video....I think I been at this location in Manassas va...is this correct?
That's correct... covid forced a change of venue for, I think 2 years, but as of last year, they are back at the HS parking lot in Manassas.
RCRNV Radio Control Racers of Northern Virginia. May 29 is the first day of the summer race season. Here's a link to their facebook page.
facebook.com/groups/80575954224
It's a really nice group of guys and it's always a good time. Hopefully I'll see you at one of the races. If you see me there, please stop by my tent and say hello!
I apologize for the late reply. I lost my father before Thanksgiving and dropped into a dark pit that I had a really hard time climbing out of it... I hope to be posting new videos in a week or so.
Regards,
CJ
I'm considering getting into RC and this sounds like a fun, beginner friendly class to try. What determines the winner of a heat? I noticed the race was timed.
Most laps in the allotted time wins the heat. VTS and USGT are the best beginner classes for the touring car chassis'. Now, I don't know where you live and USGT is a North America specific class... there is probably a european equivalent. USGT is a bit faster, but it's still a highly restricted class... one motor by one manufacturer, specific wheels and tires, "blinky" esc, etc. In other words, a more or less level playing field but a slightly faster motor than VTA, the tires have more grip, and the bodies are more aero. If you're a total beginner, you might want to start with VTA for a season or two, then either upgrade your car to USGT, or build a new car for USGT and continue to race VTA as well as USGT... depending on your budget.
one of the problem with parking lot racing is there are no consequences for going off the track like there is when racing on a dedicated rc course.
That's not totally true... the organizer of the club I race with uses old firehose to line the inner lanes and lengths of PVC gutter to line the outer edge of the course. If you go over that, or get hung up on the heavy firehose, you usually can't get back on track again without help from a corner marshal... and if they aren't close at hand, you can lose most of a lap.
Thanks for watching and for commenting!