Thank you for your kind words, comments like this really make me feel good knowing that I'm helping folks. The whole reason I started this channel to help and educate and save people money where possible 🙂 so once again thank you 🙏
Sir, can that Bosch spark plug use on clk200 w208 M111.944 engine with standards map? Cause now my car is running rich..also can you give an advise what is the best spark plug for a remap E46 325i M54 engine which is now running the original bmw spark plug for that model..many thanks on the info that you give on this channel..
I only run ngk copper plugs in everything, people fall for those expensive gimmicky plugs but copper are the best performing one you can get they just don't last as long.
Interesting, I have a w124 220E with the M111.960 and the use of resistor plugs (as denoted by the R in FR5DC-4) is not recommended for this engine. But then the wire and coil setup is different on the w124 so that might not apply in your situation.
Yeah your coil packs are mounted to the intake manifold aren't they? Maybe due to the design but we have never had and issue with coil breakdown or misfire issues. Like I say though I'm no expert on plugs and hold my hands up to that. I shall check up I'm sure they are fine on these later model engines, though the coil set up is similar.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 Yup, the coils are bolted below the intake manifold and rather annoying to access (I think it's the same on the w202 as well ?). I use old stock bosch F8DC0 and the car doesn't skip a beat on the road, has nice power and all, but idle is just sliiiightly rough, despite me having replaced just about everything remotely linked to engine management besides the ECM... Oh well
I ❤️ this comment cause I'm having the same issue and I swear its the timing chain stretching over time, it's so frustrating but when we changed the timing chain on the Slks new engine it ran smoothly but is also on standalone. I only know the location cause we use that old school manifold but yeah very awkward place to put them, but yes the early 202 was the same set up. I really wish I could figure out a coil on plug set up for the pre-facelift m111 K on stock management. It's really inconvenient when dropping a coil costs you two cylinders 😂
@@M-oneeleven-M111 Interesting, well the timing chain stretch was checked a couple years ago and it was within tolerance, so idk :/ I have only one code that always comes back indicating too lean mixture, do you have any persistent codes ? Here's everything I replaced so far: Throttle body + TB gasket (early W124 TBs were affected by biodegradable wiring), engine wiring harness (same reason), all vacuum hoses, Bosch fuel pressure regulator, Bosch MAF sensor, spark plugs and wires, all 4 injectors and 8 seals (even the tiny strainer thing on the fuel inlet on the injection rail), fuel purge valve, headlight height adjuster knob thingy in the dash (could hear a very slight vacuum leak), o2 sensor (my car has only 1), fuel and air filters, fuel tank strainer, various rubber seals and o rings (on the dipstick, oil filler cap, gas cap...), engine and gearbox mounts... at some point I was losing my marbles over this, but I had to stop xD. It's now at a point where idle is stable but you can still feel some light shaking in the cabin. Fuel pressure is normal... I still have the original coils from 1992 so... maybe I'll replace that now ? If you ever figure this one out or if you have any suggestions please hit me up lol
So you basically have a new car 🤣 believe me but this is a super common issue, and when I did a video on my Clk doing it a fair few other people reported the same thing. I don't think it's the chain out of spec but I think it's just as it stretches over time obviously the timing drifts slightly as it stretches. You really know when the chain is out of spec on these. But when I got some money o will swap the on out for a new one on the clk that may give us all some answers.
Yep I think so that's why when I saw NGK yesterday I was supprised, obviously with services they should get changed someone clearly preferred NGK. Nothing wrong with NGK but the whole engine management system from ignition to sensors to ECU is Bosch which is why I like to use Bosch spark plugs. But it's not about who makes them it's about what gap and heat range they are.
Its also not all about the gap or heat range. Some engines doesnt run right when installing other than Oem. The car may become sluggish or rough when installing different brand.
I have a crank overdriven 2000 m111k c230, recently I’ve been experiencing misfires at partial to WOT on stock plugs, (2 different sets of oem plugs yield same results). Would my car benefit from different plugs maybe? Thank you
When using the sleeve over crank pulley, it is recommended to use a VW 4 bar fuel pressure regulator and Bosch FR5DC spark plugs. Also a MAF sensor relocation can also help with this mod, check out another video on the channel. Hopefully these changes will fix the issue. Sometimes if you have a really healthy supercharger these pulleys can cause the supercharger to top out the MAF sensor which causes spark cut, if this is the case sometimes it can be cured by fitting a BMW M5 E39 genuine Bosch MAF sensor. Unfortunately the companies that sell these pulleys don't often give guides of the actual supporting mods required to make them work. Hopefully one of these will fix your issues, thanks for watching please if not already subscribe and share
Very detailed explanation, thank you. I swapped a 4bar and the plugs as you mentioned, no more miss under hard acceleration, problem solved thanks again!
Depends if its stock or over driven, when we Turbo or over drive the super charger we use Bosch FR5DC gapped 0.8-0.7 depending on boost level, as yours is the highest output I think Bosch's FR5DCs would work ok in your engine at 0.8mm gap
Very intelligent bloke. You're a natural engineer, seriously, watched all your CLK/SLK vids today and your insight and knowledge if first class.
Thank you for your kind words, comments like this really make me feel good knowing that I'm helping folks. The whole reason I started this channel to help and educate and save people money where possible 🙂 so once again thank you 🙏
Sir, can that Bosch spark plug use on clk200 w208 M111.944 engine with standards map? Cause now my car is running rich..also can you give an advise what is the best spark plug for a remap E46 325i M54 engine which is now running the original bmw spark plug for that model..many thanks on the info that you give on this channel..
I only run ngk copper plugs in everything, people fall for those expensive gimmicky plugs but copper are the best performing one you can get they just don't last as long.
Interesting, I have a w124 220E with the M111.960 and the use of resistor plugs (as denoted by the R in FR5DC-4) is not recommended for this engine. But then the wire and coil setup is different on the w124 so that might not apply in your situation.
Yeah your coil packs are mounted to the intake manifold aren't they? Maybe due to the design but we have never had and issue with coil breakdown or misfire issues. Like I say though I'm no expert on plugs and hold my hands up to that. I shall check up I'm sure they are fine on these later model engines, though the coil set up is similar.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 Yup, the coils are bolted below the intake manifold and rather annoying to access (I think it's the same on the w202 as well ?). I use old stock bosch F8DC0 and the car doesn't skip a beat on the road, has nice power and all, but idle is just sliiiightly rough, despite me having replaced just about everything remotely linked to engine management besides the ECM... Oh well
I ❤️ this comment cause I'm having the same issue and I swear its the timing chain stretching over time, it's so frustrating but when we changed the timing chain on the Slks new engine it ran smoothly but is also on standalone. I only know the location cause we use that old school manifold but yeah very awkward place to put them, but yes the early 202 was the same set up. I really wish I could figure out a coil on plug set up for the pre-facelift m111 K on stock management. It's really inconvenient when dropping a coil costs you two cylinders 😂
@@M-oneeleven-M111 Interesting, well the timing chain stretch was checked a couple years ago and it was within tolerance, so idk :/ I have only one code that always comes back indicating too lean mixture, do you have any persistent codes ? Here's everything I replaced so far: Throttle body + TB gasket (early W124 TBs were affected by biodegradable wiring), engine wiring harness (same reason), all vacuum hoses, Bosch fuel pressure regulator, Bosch MAF sensor, spark plugs and wires, all 4 injectors and 8 seals (even the tiny strainer thing on the fuel inlet on the injection rail), fuel purge valve, headlight height adjuster knob thingy in the dash (could hear a very slight vacuum leak), o2 sensor (my car has only 1), fuel and air filters, fuel tank strainer, various rubber seals and o rings (on the dipstick, oil filler cap, gas cap...), engine and gearbox mounts... at some point I was losing my marbles over this, but I had to stop xD. It's now at a point where idle is stable but you can still feel some light shaking in the cabin. Fuel pressure is normal... I still have the original coils from 1992 so... maybe I'll replace that now ? If you ever figure this one out or if you have any suggestions please hit me up lol
So you basically have a new car 🤣 believe me but this is a super common issue, and when I did a video on my Clk doing it a fair few other people reported the same thing. I don't think it's the chain out of spec but I think it's just as it stretches over time obviously the timing drifts slightly as it stretches. You really know when the chain is out of spec on these. But when I got some money o will swap the on out for a new one on the clk that may give us all some answers.
Isnt the oem Bosch ?
Every Merc ive had has run rich ...perhaps check your MAF is clean and intake filter doesn't need replacing.
Yep I think so that's why when I saw NGK yesterday I was supprised, obviously with services they should get changed someone clearly preferred NGK. Nothing wrong with NGK but the whole engine management system from ignition to sensors to ECU is Bosch which is why I like to use Bosch spark plugs. But it's not about who makes them it's about what gap and heat range they are.
Its also not all about the gap or heat range.
Some engines doesnt run right when installing other than Oem.
The car may become sluggish or rough when installing different brand.
I have a crank overdriven 2000 m111k c230, recently I’ve been experiencing misfires at partial to WOT on stock plugs, (2 different sets of oem plugs yield same results). Would my car benefit from different plugs maybe? Thank you
When using the sleeve over crank pulley, it is recommended to use a VW 4 bar fuel pressure regulator and Bosch FR5DC spark plugs. Also a MAF sensor relocation can also help with this mod, check out another video on the channel. Hopefully these changes will fix the issue.
Sometimes if you have a really healthy supercharger these pulleys can cause the supercharger to top out the MAF sensor which causes spark cut, if this is the case sometimes it can be cured by fitting a BMW M5 E39 genuine Bosch MAF sensor. Unfortunately the companies that sell these pulleys don't often give guides of the actual supporting mods required to make them work.
Hopefully one of these will fix your issues, thanks for watching please if not already subscribe and share
Very detailed explanation, thank you. I swapped a 4bar and the plugs as you mentioned, no more miss under hard acceleration, problem solved thanks again!
@@jonathancantor93 awesome that's great to hear👍
@@M-oneeleven-M111 hi. Do you perhaps have catalog number of 4 bar fuel pressure regulator? Thank you!
Would you have spark plug recommendation for m111.944 (2.0 kompressor 192 hp)?
Depends if its stock or over driven, when we Turbo or over drive the super charger we use Bosch FR5DC gapped 0.8-0.7 depending on boost level, as yours is the highest output I think Bosch's FR5DCs would work ok in your engine at 0.8mm gap