Great Video. With regards to the note my Dad used to do the same, "leave a little something for the next lad" he'd say. He started out as a linesman, then electrician, and wired up country cottages to the main grid after coming back from WWII. He'd often find little treasures (most commonly a newspaper) sealed up behind the lath and plaster walls or under floorboards, some of these houses were pretty old too. In turn he would do the same, after all, every tradesman had the daily paper on him. As a kid this fed my imagination and when renovating my first apartment I found a pencilled 140 year old message, I thought left for me, on the back of a skirting board. I couldn't make out the old style handwriting, but was convinced it was the names of the joiners who fitted the buildings ornate woodwork. I took a photo so I could puzzle it out later and maybe research these men. On my computer screen the pencil writing came up as clear as day. I'd been looking at it upside down. It read " 8' 5" 3rd floor front living room." :-(
Perfect! My grandmother gave me the best advice for delicate repairs like your soldering on the back side of volatile solvents: "The enemy of good...is better". She also gave advice on fluid dynamics, "You can lead a horse to water...but when he floats on his back...well, then you have something". I like that your bubble extends between the lines for a vernier type calibration. Very Nice
Tom Excellent video. Thank you for all the insight you have given this old man. Gary 77-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist In the Beautiful Mountains of North West Arkansas
Hi Tom, Another gem of a video! Thanks. Couple of comments. "Spirit" levels use alcohol for a couple of reasons: 1. It's highly unlikely to freeze and burst the vial, and 2. The viscosity of the alcohol is considerably less than water. On high precision levels, ether (typically diethyl ether) is sometimes used because it's viscosity is about 1/5th that of ethyl alcohol. Ether allows the level to "settle" more quickly than would an alcohol level. Salammoniac is an archaic name for ammonium chloride. When I was a kid through graduate school, I worked for my father's plumbing & heating business. We did all kinds of sheet metal work including guttering in the days before continuous/seamless gutter. Lots of soldering. Early on, one of my jobs was to keep the soldering coppers (so called soldering irons) from overheating while sitting on the plumber's torch and to keep them well tinned with salammoniac. The salammoniac was kept as a lumpy powder in a large, malleable iron pipe cap and I added solder droplets that fell on the bench or sidewalk. This did a remarkably good job tinning those big soldering coppers. Don't forget, salammoniac is a hygroscopic (water loving) salt (of ammonia and chlorine) that will corrode the crap out of any iron or steel upon which it is left. It seems like it is selective: the higher the quality and value of the metal surface, the more likely it is to cause corrosion. 😎 Best regards, Gottfried
Terrific content Tom. Excellent job narrating the thought process. You showing us how to think about a problem is your greatest gift to us trailer park machinists.
Nice work Tom! The patent says the stadia lines were put in on the bubble side before the spherical lapping was done, deep enough to still be there after lapping. ATB, Robin
@@royreynolds108 : That is an interesting story (Dating from 1785) Unlikely that spiders webs are used in the modern day (etched class or metal filament) as the spiders web was noted to sag in humid environments.
I like the note. I built about 300’ of stainless railings at a public beach , for the town I work for. Inside a marked rail with my sons initials I left a dollar from the year he was born and a dollar from the year I built the railing and a nice little father to son letter. He was only 1 at the time. Next I set up a series of clues for him to find it after im gone of course. I guess I’ll never really know if he does by the time my time is up , but I appreciate little things like that.
When you were resizing the bubble it occurred to me that your second level might also have lost fluid. Your first guess that the bubble should be inside the first lines may be correct.
The bubble should be exactly inside all the inner lines. It has lost fluid and original pictures from Fell show it. There is no sence in having it cross any lines when perfectly levelled. The lines are there to let you measure/gauge how much out of level you are.
@@1kreature You are correct, but it is absolutely imperative that the bubble NOT get SMALLER than the innermost set of lines or you lose the design tolerance completely. Better to be slightly larger than smaller.
@@nevetslleksah an atmosphere of ether/ethanol as the vapors were escaping as soon as he had a small hole I think it's safe to assume there is no oxygen/nitrogen inside in a significant fraction.
@@nevetslleksah Respectfully, in order for changing atmospheric pressure to have any effect..it would have to be vented to the ambient atmosphere, or have some part of its container able to move with changes in pressure...like a bellows.
I miss seeing your videos on a regular basis Tom. I have learned a tremendous amount from you and I appreciate all the wisdom you openly share. I started scraping recently and would love to see a couple videos on that. Anyways, keep up the great work.
I'm one of those telescope folks who has ground their own mirror and I definately hadn't expected you to mention amateur telescope makers :D . Thanks for that
Tom I believe the curvature of the glass is achieved by using telescope lens grinding techniques which are capable of millionth of an inch accuracies. Enjoyed your sharing.
You defiantly earned a thumbs up on this one. You did exactly what I would have done, cleaned it up and leave ever dink and scratch in place. I own my Dad's wood plane that he purchased in 1949 when he built his house (I was a year old by the way). That plane has a broken handle that as a child I decided to repair. I was about 11 and thought I knew wood so got the Elmer's glue out and although I did a great job with no glue squeezed out all over the handle I used the screw that holds the handle in place as the clamp. Well little did an 11 year old understand a broken piece of rosewood that was at an angle and I got it misaligned by about 1/16" of an inch. Now it hurts nothing but Dad had all sorts of dings and scratches from his work (he was not a woodworker) and I added a few of my own as a then amateur woodworker. I consider this plane to be a prized possession in my woodworking shop, dings and misalignment tell a story. Great video, I cringed when you went back after that solder joint (I do some stain glass work) but you came out okay.
Tom it’s like another world you live in and thanks for taking me with you. I have learnt so much from you. I was shouting at you to use a soldering Iron to open the whole as no bits would get in, but you managed well with your way. Wow worn out now but thanks. From U.K.
If there is a more difficult way to get it done, you will find it. A solder sucker and a solder gun would have done just fine. Good job. I am glad you are back.
As an Electronics engineer, I agree, the wick or solder sucker would have exposed the hole much quicker. Also you should always use flux cored solder to tin the soldering iron tip before using it on the job. The flux causes the solder to flow into a smooth heap. in a way, the flux is more important than the solder.
Yeah, good luck getting a solder "sucker" to heat up that giant heat sink. Lol. They're meant to be powerful enough to heat up the leg of a through hole component and a plated via. That's only about a couple hundred mg of metal. Have you ever m ever tried it on a PCB with a large heat dissipating ground plane with lots of plated vias? That's only a bit more thermal mass, and it can be impossible with a soldering iron. Now try doing it with a giant piece of metal. If only things were as easy as every, "You're doing it the hard way. You should be..." commenter on UA-cam makes it seem. Not to mention, it took him about 10 min you line up the hole and 5 minutes to drill through lead with that tiny bit and pin vise. So possibly having to purchase a solder rework vac, and messing around trying to heat it with that type of iron, would be much more hassle than the way he did it.
You'd surely run into problems with the amount of heat needed to be applied affecting everything else. If the solder joint between the glass and the cup goes, the glass fractures or the thin cup distorts with the heat, it's trashed.
Regarding the bubble size, the other commenters who mentioned that it should just touch all four inner lines are correct. Refer to the patent drawings that you linked -- it clearly shows the bubble just touching all four inner lines.
I'm an electronics technician, and when we want to remove a soldered (sodered to you) part we use Soderwick (Goot make a similar product), which will remove the solder to the point that the hole becomes exposed then add liquid and solder as normal...
Little research for you: Ether is used in spirit levels because it has a very low freezing point (you can leave your spirit level outdoors in winter even in Finland) and a low viscosity (the bubble moves freely and the same whether warm or cold) .
Been there, done that - more times than I care to admit. The man has a lot of company in that regard I'm sure. Even with that knowledge and experience under his belt, he DID give in to the dark side ONCE - but didn't tempt fate with a second try. Attaboy! L O L
@@TheFeller1554 If I could possess the logic of Robin Renzetti I would gladly endure listening to Sam Kinison AND Gilbert Gottfried battling it out in my head. My little nutcase has a voice like Jim Varney.... nowhutamean? 😄
Looked up the patent. The bubble should just touch the inner lines: “the bubble appears in the exact center with the innermost graduation lines tangent thereto and it is obvious that any out of level condition can be detected “
Makes sens to me. Otherwise you restrict the maximum readout range you could get, from the scale. I guess the other shown exampel also lost some fluid.
I would love to be your apprentice. That would round out the 30 some years i've spent in the mountain states in old job shops. You sir, are an outstanding teacher and I bet a better friend.
This whole social distancing thing is every home shop machinists dream, finally we can justify staying in the shop 24/7 😎 and to be serious there is a good reason for it now as we all have some elderly loved ones. Stay safe!
Thank You Tom for the selfless dedication to your profession! You elegantly explain the science, history, application, and the why of the tools (and processes) in your videos effortlessly. And we all benefit. Again thank you.
I have to disagree with the "it's always the second Allen wrench you grab" statement. In my experience it's always the FOURTH Allen wrench I grab. After the first two SAE (fractional) wrenches don't fit, then you grab the metric set and..... 😁 Love watching you work Tom. Nicely done.
American"Graham" electric clocks made in the 30s 40s had sealed motors in a metal case that were sealed in exactly the same way. When I used to repair them I would simply De solder the solder seal, De solder the case, clean and repair them then re solder them back together, add the oil then re solder the seal.
I'm wondering if you set it up in a vise when filling making the fluid level match the corners of the box. With this we would be able to determine the fill line.
Always interesting and educational even though I don't have your skill. I did grind my own mirror though. It took forever and was very frustrating but it turned out so well I ground another. It took the same amount of time and was just as frustrating but was many times better than the first. Hell it was fun. Thanks.
Tom, great to see you again in good health! If the bubble is the same size as the minimum square you'll have the maximum range to look and correct at. I think your other square has lost a little of it contents over the years also.... Thank you for sharing! (I would scrape the solder from the bottom to reveal the contours of the filling hole with a small sharp chisel. But my approach changes with the hour also or as long as you get the job done right is doesn't matter) Best regards, and just curious, do you have any idea of the intended use of the hammer I send you?, Job
Lovely content thank you, just wondering you didn’t mention where or how the lost fluid escaped & or wether it would do again or is it likely to have just evaporated??
What a royal pain in the . What a good job of showing you what is or isn't level and to the arc second. I was waiting for you to check your big surface plate.
I think you did the proper amount of restoration and leaving a note was a cool idea, thanks again for all of your work. I hope you come out the other side of this OK.
Hey Tom, in many videos you have mentioned parallelism and perpendicularity. how do you generate and prove such geometry from a flat reference using simple tools and basic techniques? (ie a lapped surface)
Hi Tom, I have a Fell level age wise like your old one size wise like your newer one, approx 6" X 3-1/2" with a hand scraped bottom . Similar wooden box with instructions glued in the lid. The patent number is2,211,201. I picked it up in an antique store 25 years ago for 50 bucks. Nice video by the way.
Like a few others, I am wondering why you did not use desoldering wick or a desoldering iron. If heating the case was a concern, there is a product called Chip Quick that can be used to lower the melting point of solder.
Tom, what a great project! You always impress me with your knowledge of precision instruments. I might have opened the hole differently though. In my experience, an electrically heated de-soldering tool with a suction bulb would remove the solder very quickly without any damage or chance of contamination within the vial. Resoldering the hole using the same technique as tig welding a hole closed would not allow any solder to enter. Just a thought... Hang in there and be safe, my friend.🖖
Keith Rucker has one of those, could not find the vid, I think he also said that some of the history is that these were not allowed out of the US during WWII. Vary cool!
I feel so inadequate having only three levels and none so cool as that! I love tools and you have the passion for this stuff I can relate to. I love your videos and always learn stuff I use. I’m also am normally left just a little envious. Thank you so much Tom for your efforts to share and teach!
A word from a couch machinist: "I'd make it touch the innermost full lines and assume it will evaporate again over time. At the same time I am assuming your previous level also has evaporated some"
I agree on the evaporation but I think the bubble should be at the 2nd to 3rd inner most lines so the bubble can be read not only from either side but I think as the bubble starts to travel off center it becomes distorted slightly and can give false readings if you can only compare to the one side of the bubble. look at it like this, if the bubble is the one exact same size as the inner most lines when the bubble is off there is no reference line for the edge of the bubble in the center most part of the glass and since the bubble is distorted the reading on the outer most side would be inaccurate.
That is why the sealing solder is easily drilled and resealable (easily serviceable). I doubt there is any amount of fluid that will last forever, so I see this as a normal service item like a car tire's air volume - eventually some always leaks out! Exactly which line the fluid is touching is really a moot point - you read it for consistency within all 4 sides.
@@bobbyw9046 Where do you think it's "evaporating"? I have levels that are very old. At least 50 years old (because one was my grandfather's) and the alcohol hasn't "evaporated" one bit. That's always confused me as to where the liquid goes. It doesn't osmose through the glass/plastic/metal. (Yes, I understand that levels with glass vials that were sealed, by melting the glass, is a different situation than things like this with plugs/ports.)
Tom can you do a video on your allen key holder? Maybe it's typical -- I've never seen it before. Did you make it? Does the spring hold the tools in snug?
Timeless and valuable post despite its age ;) As instructive as helpful. Thank you Sir. You earn a subscriber. I've been watching your other videos with pleasure and fascination. Really professional.
Did the math, well... typed it in my excel calculator for this very calculation! Chord Length 3.75 Height/Depth 0.0085
Radius 206.8057206 Diameter 413.6114412 I wonder if more accurately, they were going for a 200in radius (or 5000mm radius if they use... *wretches* metric) Just remembered, I actually got the equation for that out of your book!
I'm wondering if it was subjected to high temps at one point, to where the metal back was stretched beyond yield, and so increased the volume of the cavity.
Possibly a bit of accidental rough handling sometime in the past was just enough to perforate that seal. Even tougher to find is it may not leak until it reaches a certain high or low temperature and barometric pressure.
Great Video. With regards to the note my Dad used to do the same, "leave a little something for the next lad" he'd say. He started out as a linesman, then electrician, and wired up country cottages to the main grid after coming back from WWII. He'd often find little treasures (most commonly a newspaper) sealed up behind the lath and plaster walls or under floorboards, some of these houses were pretty old too. In turn he would do the same, after all, every tradesman had the daily paper on him. As a kid this fed my imagination and when renovating my first apartment I found a pencilled 140 year old message, I thought left for me, on the back of a skirting board. I couldn't make out the old style handwriting, but was convinced it was the names of the joiners who fitted the buildings ornate woodwork. I took a photo so I could puzzle it out later and maybe research these men. On my computer screen the pencil writing came up as clear as day. I'd been looking at it upside down. It read " 8' 5" 3rd floor front living room." :-(
Perfect! My grandmother gave me the best advice for delicate repairs like your soldering on the back side of volatile solvents:
"The enemy of good...is better".
She also gave advice on fluid dynamics, "You can lead a horse to water...but when he floats on his back...well, then you have something".
I like that your bubble extends between the lines for a vernier type calibration. Very Nice
Tom
Excellent video. Thank you for all the insight you have given this old man.
Gary 77-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist
In the Beautiful Mountains of North West Arkansas
Hi Tom,
Another gem of a video! Thanks.
Couple of comments. "Spirit" levels use alcohol for a couple of reasons: 1. It's highly unlikely to freeze and burst the vial, and 2. The viscosity of the alcohol is considerably less than water. On high precision levels, ether (typically diethyl ether) is sometimes used because it's viscosity is about 1/5th that of ethyl alcohol. Ether allows the level to "settle" more quickly than would an alcohol level.
Salammoniac is an archaic name for ammonium chloride. When I was a kid through graduate school, I worked for my father's plumbing & heating business. We did all kinds of sheet metal work including guttering in the days before continuous/seamless gutter. Lots of soldering. Early on, one of my jobs was to keep the soldering coppers (so called soldering irons) from overheating while sitting on the plumber's torch and to keep them well tinned with salammoniac. The salammoniac was kept as a lumpy powder in a large, malleable iron pipe cap and I added solder droplets that fell on the bench or sidewalk. This did a remarkably good job tinning those big soldering coppers.
Don't forget, salammoniac is a hygroscopic (water loving) salt (of ammonia and chlorine) that will corrode the crap out of any iron or steel upon which it is left. It seems like it is selective: the higher the quality and value of the metal surface, the more likely it is to cause corrosion. 😎
Best regards,
Gottfried
Terrific content Tom. Excellent job narrating the thought process. You showing us how to think about a problem is your greatest gift to us trailer park machinists.
Nice work Tom! The patent says the stadia lines were put in on the bubble side before the spherical lapping was done, deep enough to still be there after lapping.
ATB, Robin
That makes sense. I wouldn't want to go through all that effort only to mess it up after with a bad line.
ROBRENZ so the lines are in the glass??? I assumed they were on the metal bottom. Wow!
@@glennstasse5698 They have to be on the inside of the glass or you will get parallax and have a worthless measurement.
The cross hairs of a telescope used for survey instruments are from a spider's webb and are in the air inside of the tube.
@@royreynolds108 : That is an interesting story (Dating from 1785)
Unlikely that spiders webs are used in the modern day (etched class or metal filament) as the spiders web was noted to sag in humid environments.
I like the note. I built about 300’ of stainless railings at a public beach , for the town I work for. Inside a marked rail with my sons initials I left a dollar from the year he was born and a dollar from the year I built the railing and a nice little father to son letter. He was only 1 at the time. Next I set up a series of clues for him to find it after im gone of course. I guess I’ll never really know if he does by the time my time is up , but I appreciate little things like that.
That will be a great treasure hunt for him, that he will remember forever.
Nice 👍
Had to log in just to leave comment.
Lucky guys you are.
God bless.
Sounds like those railings are set up to be vandalised in the future.
That’s a beautiful story man, thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much Tom!! You are one of the most important youtube teachers we have
When you were resizing the bubble it occurred to me that your second level might also have lost fluid. Your first guess that the bubble should be inside the first lines may be correct.
The bubble should be exactly inside all the inner lines. It has lost fluid and original pictures from Fell show it.
There is no sence in having it cross any lines when perfectly levelled. The lines are there to let you measure/gauge how much out of level you are.
But most likely temperature and pressure sensitive so the bubble size will change depending on atmospheric conditions.
@@1kreature You are correct, but it is absolutely imperative that the bubble NOT get SMALLER than the innermost set of lines or you lose the design tolerance completely. Better to be slightly larger than smaller.
@@nevetslleksah an atmosphere of ether/ethanol as the vapors were escaping as soon as he had a small hole I think it's safe to assume there is no oxygen/nitrogen inside in a significant fraction.
@@nevetslleksah Respectfully, in order for changing atmospheric pressure to have any effect..it would have to be vented to the ambient atmosphere, or have some part of its container able to move with changes in pressure...like a bellows.
I miss seeing your videos on a regular basis Tom. I have learned a tremendous amount from you and I appreciate all the wisdom you openly share. I started scraping recently and would love to see a couple videos on that.
Anyways, keep up the great work.
I'm one of those telescope folks who has ground their own mirror and I definately hadn't expected you to mention amateur telescope makers :D . Thanks for that
Parabola on a standard Newtonian reflector
Tom I believe the curvature of the glass is achieved by using telescope lens grinding techniques which are capable of millionth of an inch accuracies. Enjoyed your sharing.
You defiantly earned a thumbs up on this one. You did exactly what I would have done, cleaned it up and leave ever dink and scratch in place. I own my Dad's wood plane that he purchased in 1949 when he built his house (I was a year old by the way). That plane has a broken handle that as a child I decided to repair. I was about 11 and thought I knew wood so got the Elmer's glue out and although I did a great job with no glue squeezed out all over the handle I used the screw that holds the handle in place as the clamp. Well little did an 11 year old understand a broken piece of rosewood that was at an angle and I got it misaligned by about 1/16" of an inch. Now it hurts nothing but Dad had all sorts of dings and scratches from his work (he was not a woodworker) and I added a few of my own as a then amateur woodworker. I consider this plane to be a prized possession in my woodworking shop, dings and misalignment tell a story. Great video, I cringed when you went back after that solder joint (I do some stain glass work) but you came out okay.
Soldering that hole was planned obsolescence right back in the 40's. Glad you defeated it!
Tom it’s like another world you live in and thanks for taking me with you. I have learnt so much from you. I was shouting at you to use a soldering Iron to open the whole as no bits would get in, but you managed well with your way. Wow worn out now but thanks. From U.K.
If there is a more difficult way to get it done, you will find it. A solder sucker and a solder gun would have done just fine. Good job. I am glad you are back.
I'd be concerned about getting solder into the vial. Maybe I'm wrong
I would favour the wick method personally, a little less violent the a sucker.
As an Electronics engineer, I agree, the wick or solder sucker would have exposed the hole much quicker. Also you should always use flux cored solder to tin the soldering iron tip before using it on the job. The flux causes the solder to flow into a smooth heap. in a way, the flux is more important than the solder.
Yeah, good luck getting a solder "sucker" to heat up that giant heat sink. Lol. They're meant to be powerful enough to heat up the leg of a through hole component and a plated via. That's only about a couple hundred mg of metal. Have you ever m ever tried it on a PCB with a large heat dissipating ground plane with lots of plated vias? That's only a bit more thermal mass, and it can be impossible with a soldering iron. Now try doing it with a giant piece of metal. If only things were as easy as every, "You're doing it the hard way. You should be..." commenter on UA-cam makes it seem. Not to mention, it took him about 10 min you line up the hole and 5 minutes to drill through lead with that tiny bit and pin vise. So possibly having to purchase a solder rework vac, and messing around trying to heat it with that type of iron, would be much more hassle than the way he did it.
You'd surely run into problems with the amount of heat needed to be applied affecting everything else. If the solder joint between the glass and the cup goes, the glass fractures or the thin cup distorts with the heat, it's trashed.
Regarding the bubble size, the other commenters who mentioned that it should just touch all four inner lines are correct. Refer to the patent drawings that you linked -- it clearly shows the bubble just touching all four inner lines.
Good to see you back on the air, Tom. Please stay safe everyone. Let’s act together while we’re apart.
I'm an electronics technician, and when we want to remove a soldered (sodered to you) part we use Soderwick (Goot make a similar product), which will remove the solder to the point that the hole becomes exposed then add liquid and solder as normal...
Exactly my thoughts.
Don Pollard Yeah he wouldn't listen to me either!
Yup, my line of thought as well.
As far as I'm aware we all still spell it solder even if some of us pronounce it sodder.
Little research for you: Ether is used in spirit levels because it has a very low freezing point (you can leave your spirit level outdoors in winter even in Finland)
and a low viscosity (the bubble moves freely and the same whether warm or cold)
.
Good on you for putting the Easter egg note inside. It's a nice touch.
Those levels would be perfect for a pool table!
When tom said the " the little nutcase inside me says to play with it some more" talking about leaving the solder alone. I lost it that was funny.
Been there, done that - more times than I care to admit. The man has a lot of company in that regard I'm sure. Even with that knowledge and experience under his belt, he DID give in to the dark side ONCE - but didn't tempt fate with a second try. Attaboy! L O L
My problem is the little nutcase in my head has a voice like Sam Kinison and the logic of Robin Renzetti or so it seems.
@@TheFeller1554 If I could possess the logic of Robin Renzetti I would gladly endure listening to Sam Kinison AND Gilbert Gottfried battling it out in my head. My little nutcase has a voice like Jim Varney.... nowhutamean? 😄
Agreed w all. It was my favorite part of the video. I laughed out loud.
desoldering wick might have worked for this job?
Looked up the patent. The bubble should just touch the inner lines: “the bubble appears in the exact center with the innermost graduation lines tangent thereto and it is obvious that any out of level condition can be detected “
Makes sens to me. Otherwise you restrict the maximum readout range you could get, from the scale.
I guess the other shown exampel also lost some fluid.
Fill er up! Tom.
Thanks Tom, I love watching you work. As an old hand with a soldering iron, I noticed a distinct lack of flux...
Tom, this was fun !! Thanks for another great watch, Cliff
I had never heard of these levels until Keith Rucker recently used one to level a machine. Very clever and useful. Thanks for this interesting video.
I would love to be your apprentice. That would round out the 30 some years i've spent in the mountain states in old job shops. You sir, are an outstanding teacher and I bet a better friend.
If I only had half of your patience I would be happy. Cool video Tom, Thanks.
I saw the same level in Keith Rucker’s channel. Now we know the guts. Awsome. Thank you. Take care.
Tom, I want to join the many people who have said how much they enjoy your videos.
Nice job. Your videos really are nice to watch when confined to home. Keep 'em coming.
Great video. So simple in concept and so accurate. Thanks for a perfect way to “shelter in place”.
I was given one of these this weekend, didn't know what it was so fascinated to find your video!!
This whole social distancing thing is every home shop machinists dream, finally we can justify staying in the shop 24/7 😎 and to be serious there is a good reason for it now as we all have some elderly loved ones. Stay safe!
Or my best excuse yet for staying in the shop? I am the elderly loved one? I think??!!! :-)
@Haha MissMiss Unless you are a CNC home shop, or have a 3D printer, then you have "friends" wanting odd object made all the time.
@@alanhutchison4207 Me too. My wife is much younger than I am, she is only 65, while I am almost 68. LOL
Machinists and fire extinguisher techs! I think I've ran the hydro test machine everyday all day for the last 2 weeks!
Thank You Tom for the selfless dedication to your profession! You elegantly explain the science, history, application, and the why of the tools (and processes) in your videos effortlessly. And we all benefit. Again thank you.
I have to disagree with the "it's always the second Allen wrench you grab" statement. In my experience it's always the FOURTH Allen wrench I grab. After the first two SAE (fractional) wrenches don't fit, then you grab the metric set and..... 😁
Love watching you work Tom. Nicely done.
L O L
I usually find it's the one that's missing from the set.
So glad it’s not just me.
That's the voice of experience right there.
Rambozo Clown
I fully endorse your comment
American"Graham" electric clocks made in the 30s 40s had sealed motors in a metal case that were sealed in exactly the same way. When I used to repair them I would simply De solder the solder seal, De solder the case, clean and repair them then re solder them back together, add the oil then re solder the seal.
sweet, please put out more, we're locked down here, thanks
I'd sure like to see a build of your level plate. That was pretty nice. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Tom.
I'm wondering if you set it up in a vise when filling making the fluid level match the corners of the box. With this we would be able to determine the fill line.
Breakfast with Tom....awesome video and repair...
The patent shows the bubble to be sized such that the OD is tangent to the innermost graduation lines.
I was thinking that would give the most measurement before going out of frame.
I would think that would be self evident
@@poopcow32 You sound like an ***hole when you say things like that
Always interesting and educational even though I don't have your skill. I did grind my own mirror though. It took forever and was very frustrating but it turned out so well I ground another. It took the same amount of time and was just as frustrating but was many times better than the first. Hell it was fun. Thanks.
Heartbreaking to see you locked up in there. Thoughts and prayers.
So nice to see that level finally restored.
I saw your IG post and got excited. It is nice to see the world is not completely paused.
It was a pleasure to watch today.
Nice one!
Just a tiny correction...
The amateur telescope makers turn a sphere into a parabola.
Thanx again Tom for any and all content you provide us. I always learn something and am always inspired. Stay healthy man!
I use to silver-braze those round carbide pads onto tooling many years ago, have not seen them in decades lol!
Very nice repair . Great video Tom!
I'm glad my favorite content creators are coming out of the woodwork in this crazy time to help it pass. Great video.
This was fascinating. I watched the whole thing and was filled with suspense.
Not boring, thank you.
Excellent video Tom!!! Thanks for your wealth of knowledge that you are always willing to share. Stay safe!
Tom, it is very good to see a video from you. You simply amaze me with your abilities and knowledge I appreciate it greatly that you share it with us.
Tom, great to see you again in good health! If the bubble is the same size as the minimum square you'll have the maximum range to look and correct at. I think your other square has lost a little of it contents over the years also.... Thank you for sharing! (I would scrape the solder from the bottom to reveal the contours of the filling hole with a small sharp chisel. But my approach changes with the hour also or as long as you get the job done right is doesn't matter) Best regards, and just curious, do you have any idea of the intended use of the hammer I send you?, Job
Tom, you are always great. I enjoy all your videos, and watch the ads for you sir.
I have one just like this I use at work whenever we get a new smaller machine in. It is definitely a handy device.
Really awesome work here... Thanks for the quality video!
Lovely content thank you, just wondering you didn’t mention where or how the lost fluid escaped & or wether it would do again or is it likely to have just evaporated??
Thanks for the great video!
What a royal pain in the .
What a good job of showing you what is or isn't level and to the arc second.
I was waiting for you to check your big surface plate.
Tom, relaxing and educational. Really good content and nice to blend nerdia with practical execution. Well played.
Echoing a lot of comments below. Thank you for letting us in to your shop again! Stay Healthy!
I never have that problem with Allen keys, I ALWAYS pick up the 2nd one 1st.
I think you did the proper amount of restoration and leaving a note was a cool idea, thanks again for all of your work. I hope you come out the other side of this OK.
Nice save. Hope that seal holds. Weekday night musing for y'all: is there a use for a level in an orbiting spacecraft?
Hey Tom, in many videos you have mentioned parallelism and perpendicularity. how do you generate and prove such geometry from a flat reference using simple tools and basic techniques? (ie a lapped surface)
It should be an even number of lines wide if that makes sense so you can line the diameter up with a line on either side when it's level.
What a great video. Glad I sat through the whole thing 👌👍
I meant it was well worth the watch 👍👍
Hi Tom, I have a Fell level age wise like your old one size wise like your newer one, approx 6" X 3-1/2" with a hand scraped bottom . Similar wooden box with instructions glued in the lid. The patent number is2,211,201. I picked it up in an antique store 25 years ago for 50 bucks.
Nice video by the way.
Nice job. I think compass fluid would of been the ticket. Very similar to what you had there.
Another great video Tom just a fastinating tool thanks
If as you said, there were instructions in the case for adjusting, might it have given a clue as to the "as manufactured" bubble size?
Like a few others, I am wondering why you did not use desoldering wick or a desoldering iron. If heating the case was a concern, there is a product called Chip Quick that can be used to lower the melting point of solder.
Something like 220 inch radius. Great video Tom, thank you.
Would the bubble not be easier to read if it was same size as the innermost lines. if it sits on all 4 lines it is perfectly level
Tom, what a great project! You always impress me with your knowledge of precision instruments. I might have opened the hole differently though. In my experience, an electrically heated de-soldering tool with a suction bulb would remove the solder very quickly without any damage or chance of contamination within the vial. Resoldering the hole using the same technique as tig welding a hole closed would not allow any solder to enter. Just a thought... Hang in there and be safe, my friend.🖖
Keith Rucker has one of those, could not find the vid, I think he also said that some of the history is that these were not allowed out of the US during WWII. Vary cool!
Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/KqOaGqsBeeY/v-deo.html
Mesmerizing. Truly. Thank you!
I feel so inadequate having only three levels and none so cool as that! I love tools and you have the passion for this stuff I can relate to. I love your videos and always learn stuff I use. I’m also am normally left just a little envious. Thank you so much Tom for your efforts to share and teach!
GREAT VIDEO , STAY WELL !!!
Hola. Una pregunta. Donde es la reparacion?. Saludos.
Love the Allen Wrench Holder. Shop made? Spring holds the wrenches in place? Would love a quick explanation video! Keep up the great work.
www.amazon.com/dp/B002SQFN1A/ref=psdc_553414_t3_B002SQDPNS
A word from a couch machinist: "I'd make it touch the innermost full lines and assume it will evaporate again over time. At the same time I am assuming your previous level also has evaporated some"
Yes, just what I was thinking.
I agree on the evaporation but I think the bubble should be at the 2nd to 3rd inner most lines so the bubble can be read not only from either side but I think as the bubble starts to travel off center it becomes distorted slightly and can give false readings if you can only compare to the one side of the bubble. look at it like this, if the bubble is the one exact same size as the inner most lines when the bubble is off there is no reference line for the edge of the bubble in the center most part of the glass and since the bubble is distorted the reading on the outer most side would be inaccurate.
That is why the sealing solder is easily drilled and resealable (easily serviceable). I doubt there is any amount of fluid that will last forever, so I see this as a normal service item like a car tire's air volume - eventually some always leaks out! Exactly which line the fluid is touching is really a moot point - you read it for consistency within all 4 sides.
I ... think I agree.
@@bobbyw9046 Where do you think it's "evaporating"? I have levels that are very old. At least 50 years old (because one was my grandfather's) and the alcohol hasn't "evaporated" one bit. That's always confused me as to where the liquid goes. It doesn't osmose through the glass/plastic/metal. (Yes, I understand that levels with glass vials that were sealed, by melting the glass, is a different situation than things like this with plugs/ports.)
Tom can you do a video on your allen key holder? Maybe it's typical -- I've never seen it before. Did you make it? Does the spring hold the tools in snug?
Should have became a machinist, because this amount of accuracy makes me feel very safe.
Johnny Z
It is not too late
Timeless and valuable post despite its age ;) As instructive as helpful. Thank you Sir. You earn a subscriber. I've been watching your other videos with pleasure and fascination. Really professional.
Thanks for the video Tom.
Did the math, well... typed it in my excel calculator for this very calculation!
Chord Length 3.75
Height/Depth 0.0085
Radius 206.8057206
Diameter 413.6114412
I wonder if more accurately, they were going for a 200in radius (or 5000mm radius if they use... *wretches* metric)
Just remembered, I actually got the equation for that out of your book!
Are those decimals I see in your "imperial" calculation?
As a math nerd I'm disappointed that you wretched at metric...
What an awesome level... Please leave the level and box as is, they have years of history on their surfaces..
Excellent video as always! Stay safe Tom
I like it. The bubble is always touching at least one line while your getting close to the final measurement
Oh, that was very ASMR like. Thank you for almost an hour of pure enjoyment.
Very enjoyable video. Tom, you tred where others fear to go..
Great repair Tom. Thanks for the video. Was the top of the vial flat?
I'm wondering if it was subjected to high temps at one point, to where the metal back was stretched beyond yield, and so increased the volume of the cavity.
Yeah, my thoughts also. Especially with ether, it's extra volatile so that extra vapor pressure could make it more sensitive to heat.
Possibly a bit of accidental rough handling sometime in the past was just enough to perforate that seal. Even tougher to find is it may not leak until it reaches a certain high or low temperature and barometric pressure.