I appreciate this video showing all the grunt involved. Makes the process more real. I could easily follow the steps, and now know what I am going to face when I unscrew those four fasteners.
Haven't done an escape but I have done a ranger. I like to put some grease on the locking ring. Makes it easier to screw back on and provides an improved seal for vapors.
Been working on my car for a solid month straight it was a $600 car , bought and replaced radiator reservoir, Fuel Pressure Sensor , PCV Valve, battery, spark plugs, starter, Valve Cover Gasket, Intake manifold gasket, oil / oil filter, and tires. After the valve cover gasket and spark plug replacement I did I tested her and stalled and lost power on a incline everything was fine then till that incline hill hit and she just wasn’t given any beans and lost power right over the hill. Drove back after tiring her off and turned her back on drove back fine but check engine light came back on so I gotta replace that fuel pump tomorrow. And then test number 2 will happen hopefully she’s road worthy by this weekend.
Yes when I was also asking do you have a video showing when it comes to changing the spark plugs I'm fixing to have to do the same thing to this vehicle that I just changed the pump in that there's any special things that I need to do what I'm replacing these six spark plugs there's three in the front three in the back
I drive an 06 escape, do these pumps come with the onboard refuel recovery? or is that just an option that you can have? I need a new pump and the guy at a Autozone asked me that if it came with the onboard refuel recovery or not. Which I don't know.
Good video on install of fuel pump. I have to do this on our 2008 Escape and this was most informative. I did worry about the shop vac sucking up fuel vapors but you lived. Thanks for sharing.
The test light doesn't draw enough current to ferret out a weak ground or resistive 12V feed to the pump. You would need a 5 or more amp load to check for suitable power and ground.
There you are correct, to properly test the circuit you need to apply a load that is close to the load that the suspected failed component would produce. At that point in the video where I reference looking for a bad wire, I was more meaning checking for power through my relays and fuses, and making sure that I did have some form of ground functioning at the pump. In this particular situation the fuel pump that you see me replace was not bad. The one that I put in the vehicle later came back out. The problem was further discovered to be that the circuit board in the PCM was melted down because one of the ignition coils shorted and back feed the driver circuit. When the vehicle arrived at the shop the PCM was still working in some capacity, but shortly after I replaced the fuel pump in this video I discovered that I only was receiving marginal fuel pressure because it was holding multiple injectors open. It is also good to note that on this vehicle the fuel pump should have a 12v battery + all the time and the computer modulates the ground to the pump to duty cycle it. It is not a battery switched positive that uses a fuel pressure regulator to maintain proper operating pressure.
I would also like to add that I uploaded this video to show the installation process for the fuel pump. I would have liked to make a video of the rest of the diagnosis, but due to time constraints, and issues with my camera I did not have enough good usable video to make quality video from. The rest of the diagnosis of the vehicle was much more indepth, and it took a while to track back and figure out that the computer was the true culprit. All of my scan tool data from two different scan tools of course never once pointed to the computer, and following grounds that should not have existed at different times was the only way to track the issue back to the computer. The repair of the vehicle not only included a new PCM, but also a full set of 6 ignition coils, all Motorcraft, a full set of spark plugs, and a full oil change, due to contamination by large quantities of fuel. Three of the fuel injectors were being held open by the faulty PCM which filled three of the cylinders completely to the plenum with fuel, which was the cause of the oil contamination. I'm adding this to the comments section under your comment John-Del, because you made a very good point about circuit testing that completely pertained to the rest of the vehicle diagnosis. Hopefully these comments will help someone else if they encounter this same situation. As always if anyone has any questions don't be afraid to ask them in the comments section, and thank you for watching, and taking the time to leave me a comment.
I used this tutorial to replace my fuel pump but I can't get the lock ring to lock in place. When I hit it with the screw driver and hammer only one side of slides in. So now I have it halfway and its not fully sealed. Is there a tool that can help me put it on? I see several but don't know which one works with this particular ring on the 05 Ford escape. I figured thats what I need because the tools presses on all sides of the ring making it flush on the pump when sliding it ins its locking place. Thanks.
I've noticed there's a HUGE price difference between OEM and aftermarket fuel pumps for my '01 Escape. Is it safe to assume aftermarket fuel pumps will work just as well.
The price for a Motorcraft is absolutely insane!!!! Aftermarket is the way to go, The pumps are not as high of a quality, but it is easy to replace, and you could do it in the parts store parking lot, or on the side of the road if you needed to. Just make sure you get one from a good chain auto parts store, and get one with a lifetime warranty. If it is a chain store like Advance Auto, Orileys, Pep Boys, ect ( stay away from Autozone, far, far, away) they will honor the warranty nationwide, so if you break down and you are out of state you are covered. Just make sure you make a photocopy of the original cash register receipt and keep it in your glove box because they can not always see your warranty information nationwide, and the original receipt will fade from the heat during the summer.
I have an 05 Escape and my gas gauge stays on full all the time and I have ran out of gas several times with the family in it . What could be the problem and what will be an easy fix????
The most likely cause would be a fault in the fuel pump module. In this video the piece that I pull out of the fuel tank not only contains the fuel pump but the sending unit for the gauge as well. before I would condemn it though I would test the sending unit. you will have to remove it from the tank, make sure with the key on you have power and ground to the plug, then plug the sending unit back in and probe the signal wire from the sending unit and see if the voltage changes as you move the float through its sweep. if the voltage reading doesn't change, the sending unit is bad, if the voltage changes the sending unit is working, the issue is in the gauge itself or in the computer. I will try to find some wiring diagrams for the fuel pump to help you out with which wires to test.
I figured it out it was the floater is was jammed in the up position due to the front end collision I had at the beginning of the year thanks again for saving me some cash mechanic was charging me $240 to fix the problem I figured it out in 15 min thanks again
I have the same problem, but the float does have movement, I have looked for the sensor to buy it but I cannot find it, apparently they do not sell it separately only together with the pump, any support?
Anthony Barbee it really wasn’t in my way. I didn’t realize it was blocking the camera angle, and I wanted to keep the drip pan close Incase I needed to lift the new pump back out for any reason.
I have did everything you said to do but one question I have to ask?! How do you snap it from the bottom to pull it up? I have a 2006 Ford Escape XLT V6 3.0 wont crank.
Tiffany Brown if you are asking about how the pump attaches, it has locking tabs down near the bottom inside the tank. Unfortunately you have to reach in to the gas in the tank. If you are referring to the plug in for the pump you hold the locking tab down and pull the two pieces of the connector apart. I hope this helps, and thank you for watching.
Tiffany Brown that’s what I thought you were asking. If you use a flashlight and look at the base of the pump near the bottom of the tank there are two locking tabs. Push those in towards each other and the whole pump housing will releases and you can fish it out the top. Just take your time and try to dump as much of the gas as possible back in to the tank before you wiggle the float out through the hole in the top of the tank.
@@lifeoftiffany3809 it is very simple, I got scratch all over my hands until I realized that the info. about the locking tabs, it is misleading info, after you remove the top cover you will see the pump fixed solid to the bottom of the tank, do not stick your hand in the bottom of the gas tank , take a flash light and look at the top of the actually pump and you will see sticking like 1 inch above the pump 2 plastic flat tabs aprox. 1/4 " to 3/8 ", right across the pump from each others, put your fingers on both tabs and squeeze them slow , you are going to see that them will move toward the center of the pump, when you squeeze them easy in the same time you pull the pump slowly up and you can pull the pump nice and easy up and out of the gas tank.
Reuben H they are not cheap. Find Weir Ford parts online. They are out of Red Bud, ILLINOIS, I used a Motorcraft pump. They are more expensive, but are a lot more reliable.
I jus bought a 2005 ford escape 34 days ago 2 woks ago I was shopping with my kids came out truck wouldn't start.. got a ride home car dealer picked the car up it started I told him take to the shop to find out the problem.. he sat it on charger for battery for 10 hours I picked up around 230 pm he said no problem it's running N starting jus fine well exactly 2 weeks from that I was driving and the truck died out wouldn't start again ..tried with boosting nope nothing.. car dealer came got suv to my driveway as it broke down about 50 ft from home. . He then said he would send tow truck never did been lies and ignoring me so I have decided to fix this myself I'm almost certain it's the fuel pump. . Can anyone tell me the exact tools I need. . And is it really hard to get the ring off??? I know I'm a woman but I can do some things and am always wiling to learn.. I'm frustrated and stressed out and jus want my ehicle to be reliable I had a bad accident and rolled 8 times into a ditch I'm lucky to be alive and want to enjoy my life with the kids but this vehicle isn't reliable as yet and the car dealer says he isn't responsible ad it's 4 days past the warranty! !!! Only 34 days old I'm done with arguing
A Phillips screw driver to take the cover off, a pry bar, and a hammer to rotate the lock ring, and the rest you can do by hand. Sorry I didn’t respond faster, just saw your comment. I hope this helps.
If you use an oil pan to put the fuel pump into, ... get the God Damn thing out of the way while putting the new fuel pump in.... there is no need for it to be there ... especially if your doing a You Tube video.
I appreciate this video showing all the grunt involved. Makes the process more real. I could easily follow the steps, and now know what I am going to face when I unscrew those four fasteners.
Haven't done an escape but I have done a ranger. I like to put some grease on the locking ring. Makes it easier to screw back on and provides an improved seal for vapors.
Been working on my car for a solid month straight it was a $600 car , bought and replaced radiator reservoir, Fuel Pressure Sensor , PCV Valve, battery, spark plugs, starter, Valve Cover Gasket, Intake manifold gasket, oil / oil filter, and tires. After the valve cover gasket and spark plug replacement I did I tested her and stalled and lost power on a incline everything was fine then till that incline hill hit and she just wasn’t given any beans and lost power right over the hill. Drove back after tiring her off and turned her back on drove back fine but check engine light came back on so I gotta replace that fuel pump tomorrow. And then test number 2 will happen hopefully she’s road worthy by this weekend.
Got to say man your video with step-by-step the greatest video I was able to follow watch to be able to get this done
Please note that the key must be cycled on and off several times before cranking to let the pump build pressure
Very helpful. Answered all my questions. Got my pump ok in 06 Escape. Thanks for posting this.
Yes when I was also asking do you have a video showing when it comes to changing the spark plugs I'm fixing to have to do the same thing to this vehicle that I just changed the pump in that there's any special things that I need to do what I'm replacing these six spark plugs there's three in the front three in the back
I drive an 06 escape, do these pumps come with the onboard refuel recovery? or is that just an option that you can have? I need a new pump and the guy at a Autozone asked me that if it came with the onboard refuel recovery or not. Which I don't know.
Thanks for this. You helped us save a chunk of money.
Good video on install of fuel pump. I have to do this on our 2008 Escape and this was most informative.
I did worry about the shop vac sucking up fuel vapors but you lived.
Thanks for sharing.
5677inches are a good day 6
How do you know the pump needs to be replace, my 2005 mercury mariner don't crank or ot start
Great vid very easy to follow thanks!
Where did u get that fuel pump ive looked around abd only the one with two tubes show up and the oem only has on tube coming out from lid
How long did it take to do the job-start to finish? Thanks.
The test light doesn't draw enough current to ferret out a weak ground or resistive 12V feed to the pump. You would need a 5 or more amp load to check for suitable power and ground.
There you are correct, to properly test the circuit you need to apply a load that is close to the load that the suspected failed component would produce. At that point in the video where I reference looking for a bad wire, I was more meaning checking for power through my relays and fuses, and making sure that I did have some form of ground functioning at the pump. In this particular situation the fuel pump that you see me replace was not bad. The one that I put in the vehicle later came back out. The problem was further discovered to be that the circuit board in the PCM was melted down because one of the ignition coils shorted and back feed the driver circuit. When the vehicle arrived at the shop the PCM was still working in some capacity, but shortly after I replaced the fuel pump in this video I discovered that I only was receiving marginal fuel pressure because it was holding multiple injectors open.
It is also good to note that on this vehicle the fuel pump should have a 12v battery + all the time and the computer modulates the ground to the pump to duty cycle it. It is not a battery switched positive that uses a fuel pressure regulator to maintain proper operating pressure.
I would also like to add that I uploaded this video to show the installation process for the fuel pump. I would have liked to make a video of the rest of the diagnosis, but due to time constraints, and issues with my camera I did not have enough good usable video to make quality video from.
The rest of the diagnosis of the vehicle was much more indepth, and it took a while to track back and figure out that the computer was the true culprit. All of my scan tool data from two different scan tools of course never once pointed to the computer, and following grounds that should not have existed at different times was the only way to track the issue back to the computer.
The repair of the vehicle not only included a new PCM, but also a full set of 6 ignition coils, all Motorcraft, a full set of spark plugs, and a full oil change, due to contamination by large quantities of fuel. Three of the fuel injectors were being held open by the faulty PCM which filled three of the cylinders completely to the plenum with fuel, which was the cause of the oil contamination.
I'm adding this to the comments section under your comment John-Del, because you made a very good point about circuit testing that completely pertained to the rest of the vehicle diagnosis. Hopefully these comments will help someone else if they encounter this same situation.
As always if anyone has any questions don't be afraid to ask them in the comments section, and thank you for watching, and taking the time to leave me a comment.
thank you Mr. Joseph ~~ !! I really needed your awesome guidance here.. I have a friend that has need for me to this same pump replacement.. :)
I used this tutorial to replace my fuel pump but I can't get the lock ring to lock in place. When I hit it with the screw driver and hammer only one side of slides in. So now I have it halfway and its not fully sealed. Is there a tool that can help me put it on? I see several but don't know which one works with this particular ring on the 05 Ford escape. I figured thats what I need because the tools presses on all sides of the ring making it flush on the pump when sliding it ins its locking place. Thanks.
Tappa tap tap. Percussive maintenance isn't rocket science. Hit it harder 🤪
WHAT IS THE PUMP NUMBER PLEASE
verry helpful information
Thank you for Very helpful video! Especially since I have the same exact year.
I've noticed there's a HUGE price difference between OEM and aftermarket fuel pumps for my '01 Escape. Is it safe to assume aftermarket fuel pumps will work just as well.
The price for a Motorcraft is absolutely insane!!!! Aftermarket is the way to go, The pumps are not as high of a quality, but it is easy to replace, and you could do it in the parts store parking lot, or on the side of the road if you needed to. Just make sure you get one from a good chain auto parts store, and get one with a lifetime warranty. If it is a chain store like Advance Auto, Orileys, Pep Boys, ect ( stay away from Autozone, far, far, away) they will honor the warranty nationwide, so if you break down and you are out of state you are covered. Just make sure you make a photocopy of the original cash register receipt and keep it in your glove box because they can not always see your warranty information nationwide, and the original receipt will fade from the heat during the summer.
that oil pan couldn't have been slightly moved bit good vid
I have an 05 Escape and my gas gauge stays on full all the time and I have ran out of gas several times with the family in it . What could be the problem and what will be an easy fix????
The most likely cause would be a fault in the fuel pump module. In this video the piece that I pull out of the fuel tank not only contains the fuel pump but the sending unit for the gauge as well. before I would condemn it though I would test the sending unit. you will have to remove it from the tank, make sure with the key on you have power and ground to the plug, then plug the sending unit back in and probe the signal wire from the sending unit and see if the voltage changes as you move the float through its sweep. if the voltage reading doesn't change, the sending unit is bad, if the voltage changes the sending unit is working, the issue is in the gauge itself or in the computer. I will try to find some wiring diagrams for the fuel pump to help you out with which wires to test.
I figured it out it was the floater is was jammed in the up position due to the front end collision I had at the beginning of the year thanks again for saving me some cash mechanic was charging me $240 to fix the problem I figured it out in 15 min thanks again
I have the same problem, but the float does have movement, I have looked for the sensor to buy it but I cannot find it, apparently they do not sell it separately only together with the pump, any support?
Why not get the old pump out of the way before trying to put the new one in
Anthony Barbee it really wasn’t in my way. I didn’t realize it was blocking the camera angle, and I wanted to keep the drip pan close Incase I needed to lift the new pump back out for any reason.
Oh ok
I have did everything you said to do but one question I have to ask?! How do you snap it from the bottom to pull it up? I have a 2006 Ford Escape XLT V6 3.0 wont crank.
Tiffany Brown if you are asking about how the pump attaches, it has locking tabs down near the bottom inside the tank. Unfortunately you have to reach in to the gas in the tank. If you are referring to the plug in for the pump you hold the locking tab down and pull the two pieces of the connector apart. I hope this helps, and thank you for watching.
Joseph Vollmar Yes, I’m asking about the how the pump attaches. And Thank you so much. Your video was very helpful.
Tiffany Brown that’s what I thought you were asking. If you use a flashlight and look at the base of the pump near the bottom of the tank there are two locking tabs. Push those in towards each other and the whole pump housing will releases and you can fish it out the top. Just take your time and try to dump as much of the gas as possible back in to the tank before you wiggle the float out through the hole in the top of the tank.
@@lifeoftiffany3809 it is very simple, I got scratch all over my hands until I realized that the info. about the locking tabs, it is misleading info, after you remove the top cover you will see the pump fixed solid to the bottom of the tank, do not stick your hand in the bottom of the gas tank , take a flash light and look at the top of the actually pump and you will see sticking like 1 inch above the pump 2 plastic flat tabs aprox. 1/4 " to 3/8 ", right across the pump from each others, put your fingers on both tabs and squeeze them slow , you are going to see that them will move toward the center of the pump, when you squeeze them easy in the same time you pull the pump slowly up and you can pull the pump nice and easy up and out of the gas tank.
Great vid btw but
Where did you buy the pump
I just can't seem to find a good price.
Reuben H they are not cheap. Find Weir Ford parts online. They are out of Red Bud, ILLINOIS, I used a Motorcraft pump. They are more expensive, but are a lot more reliable.
I jus bought a 2005 ford escape 34 days ago 2 woks ago I was shopping with my kids came out truck wouldn't start.. got a ride home car dealer picked the car up it started I told him take to the shop to find out the problem.. he sat it on charger for battery for 10 hours I picked up around 230 pm he said no problem it's running N starting jus fine well exactly 2 weeks from that I was driving and the truck died out wouldn't start again ..tried with boosting nope nothing.. car dealer came got suv to my driveway as it broke down about 50 ft from home. . He then said he would send tow truck never did been lies and ignoring me so I have decided to fix this myself I'm almost certain it's the fuel pump. . Can anyone tell me the exact tools I need. . And is it really hard to get the ring off??? I know I'm a woman but I can do some things and am always wiling to learn.. I'm frustrated and stressed out and jus want my ehicle to be reliable I had a bad accident and rolled 8 times into a ditch I'm lucky to be alive and want to enjoy my life with the kids but this vehicle isn't reliable as yet and the car dealer says he isn't responsible ad it's 4 days past the warranty! !!! Only 34 days old I'm done with arguing
A Phillips screw driver to take the cover off, a pry bar, and a hammer to rotate the lock ring, and the rest you can do by hand. Sorry I didn’t respond faster, just saw your comment. I hope this helps.
If you use an oil pan to put the fuel pump into, ... get the God Damn thing out of the way while putting the new fuel pump in.... there is no need for it to be there ... especially if your doing a You Tube video.
Definitely sounds like a bad pump
So was it fuel pump ??
Easy job
Doesnt really show how to get the pump out!
Look under “Tiffany brown” comment, she asked the same and the answer is in there.
64th 5 6q features for a meeting of course in a week or
Fhfa has to inspect its Brandon square