Hi is there any way I could contact you, I am opening a body shop and I would really like to ask you a question. Please let me know how if it's ok to contact you. Thanks
Nice work. I just learn how to work with aluminum. I’m running to problems where the tail light at. Which size of revit and which head u using is it 3mm? And which die form is it. Thank you.
I used the Ford special rivet . I can't remember what size they are. In some areas, i used self piercing rivet and at the front of the bed o used the blend rivet
Hey there, I’m doing this repair soon on my f150 and I was wondering if you could shed some insight on what blind rivets you use? And also I saw online that you can just use blind rivets everywhere now for the bed side, is that true? Also not sure if you knew how to find out what SPR’s are required for the cab corner rear right side where the door closes and the underside? Or if you even have to use SPR’s there anymore either? I appreciate the info, I’m excited to do this repair. Not having to use SPR’s would be awesome but if it’s still what is required then I want to do it to code.
Yes, it is true that you can use blind rivets on the entire bedside. In some instances, Ford actually sends the gule and rivet that are needed for the repair. Now, if you are going to use blind rivets for the entire job, I would recommend that you use impact resistant structural gule with the blindrivets (3m 07333). At the top of the bedside, where the bed rail covers go's, I recommend using the SPR because the rail cover will fit much flatter you won't feel the rivets. What i did on the job was use a combination of gule Spr and blind rivets. I used blind rivets bedside to cad conner SPR in the wheelhouse and bed rail areas .
@@creamsonautobodyrepair3609 awesome, thanks for the info. I may just use blind rivets for the box side and I found the repair manual for the cab corner, I’ll need to use SPR’s there but I found a cheaper alternative by a company called Steck which will be cool to try out rather then picking up the more expensive models. If the SPR’s aren’t badly priced here I’ll probably use them on the top rail like you mentioned to make it flatter, that would be definitely better. I appreciate all the info, I’m excited to get this thing on the road
Hey. Doing same repair on a 2020 F150. Do you have part number for the nvh pads you installed?
What brand of vice grips were you using around the wheel opening ?
These are dentfix door skin pliers
Hi is there any way I could contact you, I am opening a body shop and I would really like to ask you a question. Please let me know how if it's ok to contact you. Thanks
Nice work. I just learn how to work with aluminum. I’m running to problems where the tail light at. Which size of revit and which head u using is it 3mm? And which die form is it. Thank you.
I noticed it is thicker aluminum in that area too.
Yes, around the tail light is thicker
I used the Ford special rivet . I can't remember what size they are. In some areas, i used self piercing rivet and at the front of the bed o used the blend rivet
Is that a spot welder and rivet gun that you are using to put the new one on with?
I am using high impact glue and the recommended rivets
Hey there, I’m doing this repair soon on my f150 and I was wondering if you could shed some insight on what blind rivets you use? And also I saw online that you can just use blind rivets everywhere now for the bed side, is that true?
Also not sure if you knew how to find out what SPR’s are required for the cab corner rear right side where the door closes and the underside? Or if you even have to use SPR’s there anymore either?
I appreciate the info, I’m excited to do this repair. Not having to use SPR’s would be awesome but if it’s still what is required then I want to do it to code.
Yes, it is true that you can use blind rivets on the entire bedside. In some instances, Ford actually sends the gule and rivet that are needed for the repair. Now, if you are going to use blind rivets for the entire job, I would recommend that you use impact resistant structural gule with the blindrivets (3m 07333). At the top of the bedside, where the bed rail covers go's, I recommend using the SPR because the rail cover will fit much flatter you won't feel the rivets. What i did on the job was use a combination of gule Spr and blind rivets. I used blind rivets bedside to cad conner SPR in the wheelhouse and bed rail areas .
@@creamsonautobodyrepair3609 awesome, thanks for the info. I may just use blind rivets for the box side and I found the repair manual for the cab corner, I’ll need to use SPR’s there but I found a cheaper alternative by a company called Steck which will be cool to try out rather then picking up the more expensive models. If the SPR’s aren’t badly priced here I’ll probably use them on the top rail like you mentioned to make it flatter, that would be definitely better.
I appreciate all the info, I’m excited to get this thing on the road
@tylercorbiere Glad I could be of assistance to you, man.
What is part number of that rivet powered gun you used at the end of the video
I am not sure of the part number. The shop i worked for got. But the tool is made by Pro Spot, and i think it's a PR-5D. It's for self piercing rivet
Never understood why a person would use a body hammer to separate spot welds/rivets on a panel.
You have the PR5 it goes way easier if you use it to remove the rivets instead of grinding them
No, i don't have this tool . But i will be looking into it. Thanks
He’s riding the gravy train
how much should a job like this cost a customer
I think it's about $2500 . That is just a rough estimate
@@creamsonautobodyrepair3609 preciate it man, got about the same damage to my truck
You are welcome
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Si
Si