Nice job, Wes. Seeing you work on that monitor took me back to my youth. I worked in TV repair shops in the late 50's and early 60's when I was in high school and college. Nearly all the sets then used vacuum tubes for most or all of the circuits and many did not use printed circuit boards but were point-to-point wired. I didn't think anyone worked on those old monitors anymore. Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
The best thing to do before desoldering or taking it apart… Take several good high resolution pictures with your cell phone of both the front and back of the board of different angles. This way you can refer to your pictures to see which side of the caps were positive and negative and other details. I do this before I even clean or wash the circuitboard at the very beginning, so if there’s any corrosion or something I missed during inspection… I can always go back and see it in the photos.
Nice work. You're spot on with your advice on the Hakko - jiggling the lead is particularly effective. The only thing I would add is that you want to run the cleaning wire through it regularly, especially before putting it away, because crud in the tube will make it a lot less effective.
Kind of risky desoldering that many caps at once. It's good you made a map of each cap and where they go before you took them out. I would have marked each cap with a sharpie marker on top before I took them out. Then replace them one at a time. It might take a few extra minutes to replace them all, but I can guarantee all the correct caps will be put back in the right holes.
Congrats on getting it going again! Electronics is not my strong suite, thus the reason I am not heavy into cnc, I can fix mechanical stuff all day long.
That is the most common thing I hear from other guys in the repair side of industry. I used to feel the same way. However, repairing electronics and controls problems is a very marketable skill. It's really not that complicated once you get some experience. These monitors sell routinely on ebay for $250 to $500 for used units with no warranty. I fixed this one with about $6 in new capacitors.
Hey I have a CRT tube from a 3 way CRT rear projection TV. i am having problems focusing the electron beam. I have a spot running currently with 8.4 volts on the heater and 5.7 KV on the tube for the acceleration anode. I have the cathode and first grid grounded whilst trying 12-260 VDC on the focusing grid. My spot size is about 12mm but I cannot seem to reduce it's diameter. I dislike how few simple CRT videos there are with very simple functional explanations and i am attempting to put together a very good video on how to work with the CRTs from the 3 way rear projection screens. Things where going well until I realized I still have little clue as to what I am doing. On the upside I got this far and the magnetic systems are no problem for me at all, but I don't want to move something the size of a dime. I can relay more information on my set up and understand HV/power electronics and procedures. Any information would be very helpful.
The worst burn-in I've ever seen was an arcade machine, back in the late 90s. The whole thing looked like something straight out of the 1970s but ran what looked like the NES version of Ghosts 'n Goblins. At some point they switched it to Pacman but it had the highscores screen of Ghosts'n Goblins etched into the CRT forever!
Wes Great video. I have a Dynapath Delta 20 with same problem, same symptoms, has high voltage and I can see a glow in the tube at turn on (but it fades with time is that normal?). Before I replace all these capacitors and buy some tools, a couple of questions: 1) Is there a way to test for video input with a multimeter? 2) Would you happen to have a list of capacitors? 3) Would you happen to have a board schematic? Your knowledge is valuable - can I hire you to help me diagnose this board? thanks Al
That's a monster compared to the tiny one on my MotionMaster with a old Allen Bradley control. It's getting cold in the shop so I have to turn it on about 10 min before I need to get going, the screen is lopsided until it warms up. Matt C.
I think that's a pretty common issue. It may be a bad ceramic capacitor or one of the IC chips. They make poor connection until they warm up and expand and force the components closer to each other, improving the connection.
Thank you I'll pass that on to my co-worker, he's more into the electronic side but I'm learning. I would like to say thank you for your video's they are great. I really like the one on reading the old logic electrical diagrams, that was a light turning on in my brain. Matt C.
Is a Kaypro an old PC? These CRT monitors used to be in everything. I have two Yasnac controls with 9" CRTs. Pretty much the same but TTL signals instead of composite. I'm going to fix one of them in a future video.
Are you documenting on the devices you are working on that it was serviced and what was serviced? Even if you are the only one that has worked on it from and now and in the future those references should be important.
Yes. Any job done for a customer has a full service report explaining what was done. I also like to put the date and a sort description of the service done on the actual unit I repair. I think you can see the tag in the video. On gear boxes, I use a paint marker.
I had a Dynamechtronics DM2800 bench top CNC mill. That was my first ever CNC machine. Stepper motors, .75kW spindle, I think 6"x10" travel. It was cute, but pretty useless. I converted it to Linux CNC, and then an Mach 3. I have a video of it somewhere. I'll try to post it someday.
Wes Johnson , I understand they were used for training, yes useless with i thing 6" z travel. Not totally sure but they got sued by Hause? For patent infringement on the controller. I nearly purchased one of their vmc for 2k with two carts of tooling and a renishaw probe and three Kurt. Unfortunate the controller had a mind of its own....I figured it was going to be a 10k lb boat anchor!
The had their own controls. Mine had the SKIP control, Single Key InPut. It was all proprietary conversational code with a maximum of 100 lines. It had no programmable spindle control. Later, they designed a PC based CNC control, but like many other companies, they rushed it to market before working out the bugs. There were problems and they never really recovered. The same thing happened to Fadal and Bridgeport CNC controls in the mid to late 1990s. The VMC s were sold with Mitsubishi controls as an option. Those would be worth owning. Mits controls are pretty robust.
Nice job, Wes. Seeing you work on that monitor took me back to my youth. I worked in TV repair shops in the late 50's and early 60's when I was in high school and college. Nearly all the sets then used vacuum tubes for most or all of the circuits and many did not use printed circuit boards but were point-to-point wired. I didn't think anyone worked on those old monitors anymore.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
max runout If this guy takes you back, then videos from this UA-camr will do that, x2.
ua-cam.com/video/irQnvxHjhM4/v-deo.html
The best thing to do before desoldering or taking it apart… Take several good high resolution pictures with your cell phone of both the front and back of the board of different angles.
This way you can refer to your pictures to see which side of the caps were positive and negative and other details. I do this before I even clean or wash the circuitboard at the very beginning, so if there’s any corrosion or something I missed during inspection… I can always go back and see it in the photos.
Gosh, I think I'm finally getting down to only a very small number of your videos I haven't watched. Thanks for sharing Wes!
Nice work. You're spot on with your advice on the Hakko - jiggling the lead is particularly effective. The only thing I would add is that you want to run the cleaning wire through it regularly, especially before putting it away, because crud in the tube will make it a lot less effective.
It's amazing how well that Hakko works. How I ever got along with solder wick and the plunger thing is beyond me.
Kind of risky desoldering that many caps at once. It's good you made a map of each cap and where they go before you took them out.
I would have marked each cap with a sharpie marker on top before I took them out. Then replace them one at a time. It might take a few extra minutes to replace them all, but I can guarantee all the correct caps will be put back in the right holes.
Congrats on getting it going again! Electronics is not my strong suite, thus the reason I am not heavy into cnc, I can fix mechanical stuff all day long.
That is the most common thing I hear from other guys in the repair side of industry. I used to feel the same way. However, repairing electronics and controls problems is a very marketable skill. It's really not that complicated once you get some experience. These monitors sell routinely on ebay for $250 to $500 for used units with no warranty. I fixed this one with about $6 in new capacitors.
Want to fix mine for $ ?
Hey I have a CRT tube from a 3 way CRT rear projection TV. i am having problems focusing the electron beam. I have a spot running currently with 8.4 volts on the heater and 5.7 KV on the tube for the acceleration anode. I have the cathode and first grid grounded whilst trying 12-260 VDC on the focusing grid. My spot size is about 12mm but I cannot seem to reduce it's diameter.
I dislike how few simple CRT videos there are with very simple functional explanations and i am attempting to put together a very good video on how to work with the CRTs from the 3 way rear projection screens. Things where going well until I realized I still have little clue as to what I am doing. On the upside I got this far and the magnetic systems are no problem for me at all, but I don't want to move something the size of a dime.
I can relay more information on my set up and understand HV/power electronics and procedures. Any information would be very helpful.
Thumbs up 👍 small issues big problems
Thumbs up 👍 Side job TV repair
Good to see a new from you, Wes. Thanks.
Thanks for the lesson Wes. Really appreciate your vids, I always pick up something from them. Please keep them coming!
Thanks for watching. I have several to upload this week.
Hell yeah!
...Nice variety of skills and repairs......I like that...
Well done Wes. Wish I could say I was able to repaired that. Thumbs up
You could have figured it out. What I did was just the electronics equivalent of a tune up.
Enjoyed the video.
The Blue esr meter is a brilliant bit of kit, but as soon as I got mine I replaced the clips with a pair of sharp probes.
The worst burn-in I've ever seen was an arcade machine, back in the late 90s. The whole thing looked like something straight out of the 1970s but ran what looked like the NES version of Ghosts 'n Goblins. At some point they switched it to Pacman but it had the highscores screen of Ghosts'n Goblins etched into the CRT forever!
Reminds me of a Mac Plus/SE. It's been a long time.
If the tube hold on more 30 years.
Nice work.
I HAVE AN OLD HAAS MINI MILL. I SEE SOME USING A LCD. WHAT DO YA THINK?
Wes Great video. I have a Dynapath Delta 20 with same problem, same symptoms, has high voltage and I can see a glow in the tube at turn on (but it fades with time is that normal?). Before I replace all these capacitors and buy some tools, a couple of questions: 1) Is there a way to test for video input with a multimeter? 2) Would you happen to have a list of capacitors? 3) Would you happen to have a board schematic? Your knowledge is valuable - can I hire you to help me diagnose this board?
thanks Al
Hello We have a lathe that has problems. It is a Mori Seiki AL2. Can you help us fix it or help us diagnose it?
Nice job.
We have same crt tube but Screen is in centre Letters not clear Please what is the problem
That's a monster compared to the tiny one on my MotionMaster with a old Allen Bradley control. It's getting cold in the shop so I have to turn it on about 10 min before I need to get going, the screen is lopsided until it warms up. Matt C.
I think that's a pretty common issue. It may be a bad ceramic capacitor or one of the IC chips. They make poor connection until they warm up and expand and force the components closer to each other, improving the connection.
Thank you I'll pass that on to my co-worker, he's more into the electronic side but I'm learning. I would like to say thank you for your video's they are great. I really like the one on reading the old logic electrical diagrams, that was a light turning on in my brain. Matt C.
Looks like the CRT monitor I salvaged from a Kaypro...which I saved to put in a Siemens 810T :-)
Is a Kaypro an old PC? These CRT monitors used to be in everything. I have two Yasnac controls with 9" CRTs. Pretty much the same but TTL signals instead of composite. I'm going to fix one of them in a future video.
Would you work on a TOIE TC-V614H chassis? I have glow in the tube but chassis has some dead parts.
Are you documenting on the devices you are working on that it was serviced and what was serviced? Even if you are the only one that has worked on it from and now and in the future those references should be important.
Yes. Any job done for a customer has a full service report explaining what was done. I also like to put the date and a sort description of the service done on the actual unit I repair. I think you can see the tag in the video. On gear boxes, I use a paint marker.
do you have a link for the esr meter
Just search "blue ESR". I think they sell on ebay.
The last I checked Dynapath I think is still in business in San Jose Ca
Yes, Dynapath is still in business. They're in Michigan. Good controls. I like them.
Wes Johnson I stand corrected, I was thinking of Dynamechtronics in San Jose. Nearly purchased one of their older Vmc. Thank god I didn't!
I had a Dynamechtronics DM2800 bench top CNC mill. That was my first ever CNC machine. Stepper motors, .75kW spindle, I think 6"x10" travel. It was cute, but pretty useless. I converted it to Linux CNC, and then an Mach 3. I have a video of it somewhere. I'll try to post it someday.
Wes Johnson , I understand they were used for training, yes useless with i thing 6" z travel. Not totally sure but they got sued by Hause? For patent infringement on the controller. I nearly purchased one of their vmc for 2k with two carts of tooling and a renishaw probe and three Kurt. Unfortunate the controller had a mind of its own....I figured it was going to be a 10k lb boat anchor!
The had their own controls. Mine had the SKIP control, Single Key InPut. It was all proprietary conversational code with a maximum of 100 lines. It had no programmable spindle control. Later, they designed a PC based CNC control, but like many other companies, they rushed it to market before working out the bugs. There were problems and they never really recovered. The same thing happened to Fadal and Bridgeport CNC controls in the mid to late 1990s.
The VMC s were sold with Mitsubishi controls as an option. Those would be worth owning. Mits controls are pretty robust.