@@BradshawJoinery The place I work at has both! The mitre one sits collecting dust in a corner because we only ever use the notcher. Makes it an absolute dream, along with the Hoffman Frame Joiner the process is quick enough that I can bang out a whole kitchen worth of beaded frames, from roughsawn to glued, in just one day if I'm on form!
@@i3enj462 a friend of mine has the same setup, I have the Hoffman but that's the only cock and bead frame I've ever made haha. I don't particularly like them as a personal taste so I don't promote it 😂👍
@@BradshawJoinery Yeah, to each his own! I think theyre nice for sure, but almost every single job I do for this company is beaded shaker face frames, and the same bead on the doors. Gets a little repetetive, I'm trying to branch out and build my own company so I can make more furniture thats to my own taste! Keep up the good work brotha!
Really enjoyed watching this video. Extremely informative and great content. I have a faceframe job coming up, never attempted it before, feel so much more confident now having watched this video.
Nice video showing things we don’t see much of these days - looking forward to part 2 . I always find it really difficult to get hold of native timber so great you got some for the job, makes a difference keeping things right👍
Nice one Neil!! sometimes its nice to watch a quick video to get the gits but they require a certain amount of knowledge to reproduce, im hoping my stuff is educational so its good to hear.
Hi Ollie, Loving your (all) videos and conscientiousness re not shortcutting job/customer (a la Robin Clevett ) you are a great roll model. Do you mind me asking if your Quansheng Block plane is the standard or low angle model. I’ve been debating a while with myself the likely best quality block plane, without having to pay Lie Nielsen type £s for one. I would also appreciate your opinion on the merits etc. Kind regards.
Hi Mollyrockers, I cannot recall, but it think it is just a normal block plane. not super low angle. I dont use it an awful lot and tend to have quite a high angle grind on the blade so it works almost like a scraper when i do. Give richard Arnold a follow on socials, hes hand plane number 1 and may even guide you down the correct path better.
Another great video. I have learnt so much from your video's from your attention to detail , the way you approach various parts of the build and then watching the skill in completing the tasks. Face frame looks great can;t wait for the rest
IM BACK TOO. HAVE YOU EVER USE JOHN BODDY FOR ANY TIMBER OR IS IT TOO FAR TO GO GET? THEY DID DELIVER TO ME DOWN HERE AND HAD REGULAR VISITS FROM THE FIRMS REP,GUESS BY NOW HE,S RETIRED,BUT A GOOD MAN.....I HAD A 3 T. VAN AND DROVE UP TO YORKSHIRE DID MY DEAL AND BACK HOME TO SHOP AND UNLOADED WHATEVER I BOUGHT....I STILL TRULY MISS THE JOB AND WORKING,BUT CAN NO LONGER. KEEP IT UP OLIVER,YOU MAKE GREAT WORK.
Excellent video (as usual) Oliver 👍 Had a look at your website too but could fathom out which end of the Country you’re based? Have a big project coming up and wasn’t sure if it would be worth going you a shout for some elements of it, depending on where you are. BTW have often wondered when watching your videos, approx how big your workshop is (internal) to give enough working space around those machines? Guess the camera angles can be deceptive. Am looking at setting up a workshop and curious to know how compact I can make it without making it a pain to work in. Cheers, Steve
Im south leicestershire. I removed all the location and phone numbers as i got a few nuisance calls, I did a workshop tour video, its about 10mx9mx 3m. but i have other storage for timber, the container and a spray booth extra!
You have a nice spindle why use the festool to rebate the back of the frame? Nice work.... Also used a Hoffman machine for cutting the beaded frame in one run.... Of course its an expensive machine and would need yo be doing a lot of beaded/mitre frames to justify €...
I cant remeber why, but there was a reason, i probably wanted a play with it haha. ive got a hoffman dovetail jointer, but not the one that does notched frames. impressive way of doing it though!!
Good to see you are back. Yet another watchable vid. One thing? The workshop.....are you there on your own,as can here voices now and then,also odd machining going on...keep up the good work.Im hoping to have a pacemaker fitted soon-so maybe can get back on the tools after that...
I’ve been meaning to ask for some time - you don’t dampen one face of the glue joint, as I thought was required/recommended for PU glue? Good job, though, as always.
I don't as generally the air has enough moisture to allow the glue to go off. ive not had a problem yet so i dont think there is any need. I used to mist spray but found the results no different. I think its more relative on bigger joints areas that are more likely to be sealed from external moisture.
Really interesting hearing you talk about the PU glue. Wish I had heard it a week ago - I've just glued up a garden gate and tried to remove most of the squeeze out while still wet, never mind! How long roughly did you leave it until you took the clamps off and removed the squeeze out? As someone has said above my bottle recommends to dampen one surface, and remove excess with acetone. Also interesting to see you weren't frantically rushing like I would be, once it starts foaming I assumed you'd missed the boat but clearly not. Does the 5 mins refer to open time or time to setup/remove clamps? Will be using the chisel bevel guide idea too. Thanks for sharing all of this!
I might do a video just on the PU Glue as alot of people hate the stuff, its certainly diffictult to use, but it is good kit. I used to dampen but never noticed a difference, if anythign it adhered less to the dampened surface! Watch me glue up the door if you think i dont rush around! ahah, its scary when it starts setting and your only halfway assembled. 5 mins is just a marketing thing. wait for it to form a film and not be sticky if you lightly touch and i remove clamps. if you joints spring then reclamp for a few more minutes. just pay attention to it. i tend not to leave the clamps on till its fully set as they get glued to the piece or you have to use a thin polythene barrier which is a pain.
Because the brief was something quality and matching the existing, you wont see any traditional frame with a full 45 at the corners. It looks horrible with timber movement and there is no strength in the joint using traditional joinery.
I will probably never ever make a door like this...BUT I have learnt so much watching this and your other video's.... Time patience and accuracy and sharp tools seem to be the key....oh and skill and training... Thanks Ollie
Nice one Paul, patience is the key, along with sharp tools and a good plan. whatever the task if you work it through to the end before you start you have a good chance of success.
I'm very impressed with the hand cut corner beading detail - I'd never have attempted that, but maybe now I will. Good excuse to buy some hand carving tools, anyway! As ever, you've come up trumps by giving me ideas about my next job, which is to build some smart pantry doors. Thanks Ollie and keep up the great videos. I really appreciate them.
haha, its a real cheap guitar, dont worry. It is actually a good thing, it get played and keeps me interested in learning to play... if it was in a case like my others it wouldnt get played. Also a few knocks and weather variations etc is toning the wood. creating flex and adding to the sound of the guitar. If anything its probably adding value to it haha!
Hi Ollie, another cracking demonstration of skill & patience. Interesting listening to your thoughts on PU glue. I presume you’ve used Titebond 3 for external work or would you have used Caskermite over Titebond? If the results are so much better with the PU then I guess the compromise in the clean up is just one that we have to swallow! Cheers🍻
Thanks Neil, i have used titebond 3, i just dont like buying it! haha. its good glue, and would use now over cascamite in external. Would go for 2 if internal! PU helps workflow and is mega flexible/strong. i do like it the more i use it. It, like you say, certainly has its difficulties in use. haha
Thanks, tricky question and the answer starts with it depends! 🤣 Basically your setting up for the type of cut your making, if your planing narrow board edges your more likely to see snipe than if you have a really wide board and equally the faster you push the less snip you'll get at a particular setting. I tend to set the rear bed up with a straight edge or rule, turn the planer head and let it grab the rule and pull it along with the cutter. I set the height so it pulls around 5mm in distance. Upto 8 if doing alot of wide board or the blades are a little dull. The all need to be the same and equal across the width of the rear bed or you'll get issues! Modern planers are great as the knives locate so accurately.
Haha, it was very dry so that helped, getting off the top of a 3m high can't rack without the forklift was the fun bit haha dangerous when you think about it lol
Your construction narrative is as important as the supporting video, if not more so, but often takes a back seat to the camera work. A wireless mic would greatly improve the overall result and ensure that we never miss any essential element or procedure. Certainly not a criticism, merely a suggestion. As always, you show us that you are the master of your craft.
Thanks Michael, I love the feedback and it's actually good to hear because the most recent videos I have now invested in a wireless lapel mic and the audio quality has rocketed
@@BradshawJoinery I apologize for suggesting you do something you had already done, but I have not watched your videos in sequence, only by the subject matter that interested me the most at that moment. I'm certain I will get to all of them in time, since they are, as I said previously, exceptional in both content and execution, but for now, I am still working my way through by subject matter as it relates to my own business. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond to my text. I know how much of our days, and nights, this business can consume. Be well, my brother.
Shiiiiittt…. I was really hoping there’d be an easier way of getting those routered corners at @1:12:20. I’m looking at 72 corners that’ll need to be chiseled and shaved!
Sorry but not as accurate as my kreg beading system, still see the mitre is not dead on, and kreg done in a fraction of the time. But when charging by the hour good money earner
Hey John, there are better ways to do the notched mitre i agree, but for a one off frame this is probably the best, its good to practice hand tools and techniques! The best setup would be a morso notching guillotine!
@@BradshawJoinery to be fair - I had a one off job like this with pretty much the same beaded framing. I looked at getting the Kreg Notching (jack mitre) cutter..... but then ....like you decided it wasn't worth buying another bit of kit for a one off job :) did it pretty much the same as you.... although mine was paint finish so much less stress:) The last few minutes were worth watching as I didn't have to deal with external corners! great technique - I would have left the rails as long as the total external width and cut back everything apart from the thin beaded edge (almost like having a planted bead extending from the rail - if that makes sense) your technique seems so much better.
If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery
This is my day job, I'll tell you what I've never appreciated the Morso Gilloutine more than I do after seeing you make these by hand 🤣
Great tool for notching, do you have the notching version or the mitre one?
@@BradshawJoinery The place I work at has both! The mitre one sits collecting dust in a corner because we only ever use the notcher. Makes it an absolute dream, along with the Hoffman Frame Joiner the process is quick enough that I can bang out a whole kitchen worth of beaded frames, from roughsawn to glued, in just one day if I'm on form!
@@i3enj462 a friend of mine has the same setup, I have the Hoffman but that's the only cock and bead frame I've ever made haha. I don't particularly like them as a personal taste so I don't promote it 😂👍
@@BradshawJoinery Yeah, to each his own! I think theyre nice for sure, but almost every single job I do for this company is beaded shaker face frames, and the same bead on the doors. Gets a little repetetive, I'm trying to branch out and build my own company so I can make more furniture thats to my own taste!
Keep up the good work brotha!
Really enjoyed watching this video. Extremely informative and great content. I have a faceframe job coming up, never attempted it before, feel so much more confident now having watched this video.
Awesome, thas great to hear, Good luck with the project!
Nice video showing things we don’t see much of these days - looking forward to part 2 . I always find it really difficult to get hold of native timber so great you got some for the job, makes a difference keeping things right👍
Nice one David! I bought this about 10 years ago its been sat in the barn waiting for special jobs!!
Definitely have similar ideas on timber use !
what is the exact routerr bit you used for the moulding please
Another brilliant and detailed video covering the ins and outs of what others gloss over. I never fail to learn from watching you work 👍👍👍
Nice one Neil!! sometimes its nice to watch a quick video to get the gits but they require a certain amount of knowledge to reproduce, im hoping my stuff is educational so its good to hear.
Hi Ollie, Loving your (all) videos and conscientiousness re not shortcutting job/customer (a la Robin Clevett ) you are a great roll model.
Do you mind me asking if your Quansheng Block plane is the standard or low angle model. I’ve been debating a while with myself the likely best quality block plane, without having to pay Lie Nielsen type £s for one. I would also appreciate your opinion on the merits etc. Kind regards.
Hi Mollyrockers, I cannot recall, but it think it is just a normal block plane. not super low angle. I dont use it an awful lot and tend to have quite a high angle grind on the blade so it works almost like a scraper when i do. Give richard Arnold a follow on socials, hes hand plane number 1 and may even guide you down the correct path better.
Another great video. I have learnt so much from your video's from your attention to detail , the way you approach various parts of the build and then watching the skill in completing the tasks. Face frame looks great can;t wait for the rest
Thank you very much Pete. Its a please when i get such great feedback
IM BACK TOO. HAVE YOU EVER USE JOHN BODDY FOR ANY TIMBER OR IS IT TOO FAR TO GO GET? THEY DID DELIVER TO ME DOWN HERE AND HAD REGULAR VISITS FROM THE FIRMS REP,GUESS BY NOW HE,S RETIRED,BUT A GOOD MAN.....I HAD A 3 T. VAN AND DROVE UP TO YORKSHIRE DID MY DEAL AND BACK HOME TO SHOP AND UNLOADED WHATEVER I BOUGHT....I STILL TRULY MISS THE JOB AND WORKING,BUT CAN NO LONGER. KEEP IT UP OLIVER,YOU MAKE GREAT WORK.
NO never used them pal. Looks like they are closed now unfortunately.
Excellent video (as usual) Oliver 👍 Had a look at your website too but could fathom out which end of the Country you’re based? Have a big project coming up and wasn’t sure if it would be worth going you a shout for some elements of it, depending on where you are. BTW have often wondered when watching your videos, approx how big your workshop is (internal) to give enough working space around those machines? Guess the camera angles can be deceptive. Am looking at setting up a workshop and curious to know how compact I can make it without making it a pain to work in. Cheers, Steve
Im south leicestershire. I removed all the location and phone numbers as i got a few nuisance calls, I did a workshop tour video, its about 10mx9mx 3m. but i have other storage for timber, the container and a spray booth extra!
Great craftsmanship mate! I’m sure your customers will be happy with the finished product.
TickledPink he was! :)
You have a nice spindle why use the festool to rebate the back of the frame? Nice work.... Also used a Hoffman machine for cutting the beaded frame in one run.... Of course its an expensive machine and would need yo be doing a lot of beaded/mitre frames to justify €...
I cant remeber why, but there was a reason, i probably wanted a play with it haha. ive got a hoffman dovetail jointer, but not the one that does notched frames. impressive way of doing it though!!
Good to see you are back. Yet another watchable vid. One thing? The workshop.....are you there on your own,as can here voices now and then,also odd machining going on...keep up the good work.Im hoping to have a pacemaker fitted soon-so maybe can get back on the tools after that...
I work alone, but there is other people on site yes. Great news on the health!!
Absolutely superb video, great craftsmanship. A really good watch
Thank you Jason!
I’ve been meaning to ask for some time - you don’t dampen one face of the glue joint, as I thought was required/recommended for PU glue?
Good job, though, as always.
I don't as generally the air has enough moisture to allow the glue to go off. ive not had a problem yet so i dont think there is any need. I used to mist spray but found the results no different. I think its more relative on bigger joints areas that are more likely to be sealed from external moisture.
Really interesting hearing you talk about the PU glue. Wish I had heard it a week ago - I've just glued up a garden gate and tried to remove most of the squeeze out while still wet, never mind! How long roughly did you leave it until you took the clamps off and removed the squeeze out?
As someone has said above my bottle recommends to dampen one surface, and remove excess with acetone. Also interesting to see you weren't frantically rushing like I would be, once it starts foaming I assumed you'd missed the boat but clearly not. Does the 5 mins refer to open time or time to setup/remove clamps?
Will be using the chisel bevel guide idea too. Thanks for sharing all of this!
I might do a video just on the PU Glue as alot of people hate the stuff, its certainly diffictult to use, but it is good kit. I used to dampen but never noticed a difference, if anythign it adhered less to the dampened surface! Watch me glue up the door if you think i dont rush around! ahah, its scary when it starts setting and your only halfway assembled. 5 mins is just a marketing thing. wait for it to form a film and not be sticky if you lightly touch and i remove clamps. if you joints spring then reclamp for a few more minutes. just pay attention to it. i tend not to leave the clamps on till its fully set as they get glued to the piece or you have to use a thin polythene barrier which is a pain.
Why not just run the molding right through and cut 45's on the ends and just domino and glue the frame up?
Because the brief was something quality and matching the existing, you wont see any traditional frame with a full 45 at the corners. It looks horrible with timber movement and there is no strength in the joint using traditional joinery.
I will probably never ever make a door like this...BUT I have learnt so much watching this and your other video's.... Time patience and accuracy and sharp tools seem to be the key....oh and skill and training... Thanks Ollie
Nice one Paul, patience is the key, along with sharp tools and a good plan. whatever the task if you work it through to the end before you start you have a good chance of success.
Sound like you’ve got a Lincolnshire accent. Great video and thanks for passing this knowledge on.
Oh dear! Mypartner is from that direction so maybe ive picked a little up. Hopefully i dont start growing the webbing between toes :D
A true craftsman showing some of the old joinery techniques that are seldom seen these days. 👍👍
Thanks Dave! It was a lovely little project!
I'm very impressed with the hand cut corner beading detail - I'd never have attempted that, but maybe now I will. Good excuse to buy some hand carving tools, anyway! As ever, you've come up trumps by giving me ideas about my next job, which is to build some smart pantry doors. Thanks Ollie and keep up the great videos. I really appreciate them.
thanks Ian, The more i do bits of carving the more i realise its just time and sharp kit.technique and it really isnt that hard, just have a go!!!
None of my business of course, but, a sunburst acoustic guitar does not belong amongst sawdust.
haha, its a real cheap guitar, dont worry. It is actually a good thing, it get played and keeps me interested in learning to play... if it was in a case like my others it wouldnt get played. Also a few knocks and weather variations etc is toning the wood. creating flex and adding to the sound of the guitar. If anything its probably adding value to it haha!
I'm certainly enjoying this and the narrative is a pleasure to listen to, roll on the next episode.
Cheers Rich, were trying!
Another great video. Thanks so much for sharing your work with us.
My pleasure! thankyou
Too much bunny mate
May I ask what size bead bit you used? 26:07
Sure, it was this one... amzn.to/3LXIr2f
Great video mate !
Thanks Buddy
way too much talk
There is a shorter version if you just want to watch it through
What a treat, thanks Ollie
My pleasure! thanks
Hi Ollie, another cracking demonstration of skill & patience. Interesting listening to your thoughts on PU glue. I presume you’ve used Titebond 3 for external work or would you have used Caskermite over Titebond? If the results are so much better with the PU then I guess the compromise in the clean up is just one that we have to swallow! Cheers🍻
Thanks Neil, i have used titebond 3, i just dont like buying it! haha. its good glue, and would use now over cascamite in external. Would go for 2 if internal! PU helps workflow and is mega flexible/strong. i do like it the more i use it. It, like you say, certainly has its difficulties in use. haha
Really enjoying your videos, well done. Just like to ask how do you avoid any hint of snipe from the P/T?
Thanks, tricky question and the answer starts with it depends! 🤣
Basically your setting up for the type of cut your making, if your planing narrow board edges your more likely to see snipe than if you have a really wide board and equally the faster you push the less snip you'll get at a particular setting. I tend to set the rear bed up with a straight edge or rule, turn the planer head and let it grab the rule and pull it along with the cutter. I set the height so it pulls around 5mm in distance. Upto 8 if doing alot of wide board or the blades are a little dull. The all need to be the same and equal across the width of the rear bed or you'll get issues! Modern planers are great as the knives locate so accurately.
You're a strong lad, not many know how heavy a lump of oak that big actually is
Haha, it was very dry so that helped, getting off the top of a 3m high can't rack without the forklift was the fun bit haha dangerous when you think about it lol
Subbed for the thoroughness, the old school techniques and terminology 🤘🏻
Nice one Scott! Ill try to keep it coming
Very nice and clean work 👌👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thankyou for your comments! :)
Your construction narrative is as important as the supporting video, if not more so, but often takes a back seat to the camera work. A wireless mic would greatly improve the overall result and ensure that we never miss any essential element or procedure. Certainly not a criticism, merely a suggestion.
As always, you show us that you are the master of your craft.
Thanks Michael, I love the feedback and it's actually good to hear because the most recent videos I have now invested in a wireless lapel mic and the audio quality has rocketed
@@BradshawJoinery
I apologize for suggesting you do something you had already done, but I have not watched your videos in sequence, only by the subject matter that interested me the most at that moment.
I'm certain I will get to all of them in time, since they are, as I said previously, exceptional in both content and execution, but for now, I am still working my way through by subject matter as it relates to my own business.
I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond to my text. I know how much of our days, and nights, this business can consume.
Be well, my brother.
No bother at all Michael thankyou so much 👍👍
Awesome skills mate! Top job.
Logan
Cheers Logan, thanks for the comment :)
Utterly brilliant workmanship 👍🏼
Cheers Bud! :)
Good
Thanks
Good
Thanks
Great video !!! thanks
Cheers Michal, love all the comments!
Shiiiiittt…. I was really hoping there’d be an easier way of getting those routered corners at @1:12:20. I’m looking at 72 corners that’ll need to be chiseled and shaved!
Haha that's a lot of work! What is it your making?
Sorry but not as accurate as my kreg beading system, still see the mitre is not dead on, and kreg done in a fraction of the time. But when charging by the hour good money earner
Hey John, there are better ways to do the notched mitre i agree, but for a one off frame this is probably the best, its good to practice hand tools and techniques! The best setup would be a morso notching guillotine!
@@BradshawJoinery to be fair - I had a one off job like this with pretty much the same beaded framing. I looked at getting the Kreg Notching (jack mitre) cutter..... but then ....like you decided it wasn't worth buying another bit of kit for a one off job :) did it pretty much the same as you.... although mine was paint finish so much less stress:) The last few minutes were worth watching as I didn't have to deal with external corners! great technique - I would have left the rails as long as the total external width and cut back everything apart from the thin beaded edge (almost like having a planted bead extending from the rail - if that makes sense) your technique seems so much better.