Jenna, I was a professional gardener, and my focus was fruit trees. You did an excellent job in this presentation. I was listening and waiting for old information or folk traditions that have been proven wrong, but you nailed it 100%. Well done. I'd say I don't even know why I clicked on this video, but that wouldn't be true. But I'm glad I did. You deserve my subscription if just to help you out.
The thing is, if you've got clay soil, a lawn on it is always gonna result in a compacted poor draining soil. If you had a meadow with tough perennials on it, that helps a lot with compaction and drainage. Wild grass or wild perennials also are the best at improving drainage. Brambles and nettle are two tough plants that really improve drainage. Unfortunately they're not decorative at all. But letting an area where drainage is awful be wild for a few years, will improve it a lot. Few people are willing to let it go wild though. In our clay soil, we've planted a lot of fruits trees. And the best advice I can give is this : plant them young. Trees that are tall do not do well, they take a while to adapt, even if it's a species that can tolerate clay soils like apple trees or pear trees. SO now we only plant trees that are 2 or 3 years old max, maybe 20-30 cm tall. They adapt much more quickly, and we have a lot less of them dying from being suffocated in that damp soil over winter. They also require less care in the first year, coz their root system develops more easily. ANd of course by far the best is to sow pits directly into the ground. Peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, are perfect for this. Eat them and immediately sow them into the prepared ground (just remove the weeds, sow, add mulch). They'll germinate the following Spring (maybe a 20-30 % success rate though, you've got to sow many pits), and give you the best trees ever : a strong tap root that'll make them impervious to drought, and no diseases. You can't really do this with pears or apples though, coz it doesn't stay the same variety as the fruit you ate, you're gonna have small fruits. Sown trees take also longer to produce than grafted bought trees, but since they're more resistant, productive, and free, it's well worth a try...
This is exactly what we are doing at my folk's property. A large amount of their land was conventionally farmed for decades and it compacted and awful. Dad is letting it run wild right now. He also throws out pits, seeds.. whatever he has, and lets the strong survive. It's a very interesting living experiment. Thanks for sharing this!
VERY good advice. We let two acres go “wild” for three years due to it being compact red clay that wouldn’t drain at all! Planted for the first time last year. Our apple trees and blueberry bushes look AMAZING this year. Saves a ton of money and a lot of back breaking work doing it this way. We’re letting two more acres go this year.
@@kj_H65f we always have a ton of little trees from the squirrels. Spring time is a scavenger hunt to find all the little trees dig them up and re pot them because they are always to close to the house or in the way of the mower.
One of the BEST tree planting videos I have EVER seen! The details you included are some of that basic info most videos lack. Like what a root ball actually is.
Great explanation on why trees planted with "aftermarket soil", as my dad would say, struggle in later years vs plants planted in a higher % of native soils. I also used to throw compost and sticks in the bottom of all my holes, but My university is doing a study on why you shouldn't put compost or organic decaying material on the bottom of your new establishing plant. The theory being your tree is going to be exposed to saprophitic, allelopathic, and pathogenic vectors vs. Stones/or gravel that just allow space. Right now 5 years in to the study, in basically every tested categorie, the non organics are outperforming the organic at the bottom, of plants. But if it's worked for you this long I'm not going to be the one to tell you to stop, just think it's interesting! Thank you for being a steward of knowledge.
Fascinating! Is there anything online yet, so that I could follow along with the study? This does go against what I've seen in my own garden- both with planting trees this way and with my hügelkultur plantings, but I'd love to see the final results of the study nonetheless. Thanks for sharing!
I've been planting a fruit trees over dead animals for a few years. I've got 2 beach plums with a chicken under one of them and that one has more branches than the other. I will dig a hole deep enough to allow 2 feet of soil between the bottom of the root ball and the animal. I've got a raccoon under a cherry tree that's doing well, but I didn't have the cash for two cherry trees at the time, so I can't compare the results. I planted the plum trees in the spring of 2018.
@@jonathanellis8921 Carcasses are the best of both worlds, the bones acting as inorganic material and calcium and the meat acting as slow release fertiliser.
Excellent advice. I planted 175 fruit trees (peaches, pears and apples) 10 years ago as a retirement project. We have very heavy soil and four of my 75 peach trees failed after about 3 years. I learned that while they like a lot of water they also don't like their "feet" wet! With subsequent plantings I created large mounds of our soil. That requires more watering of the trees, but it does cause the water to run away enough so that the trees have done well. Just another possibility for those who want to grow peaches in heavy soil. It too has draw backs though as the uneven ground makes thinning, trimming and picking more difficult. BUT there is nothing that matches the taste of a fresh peach!
What a great idea. Just goes to show you there’s no “right way” to grow something and gardening is much about experimentation. There’s upsides and downsides to every technique and it’s good to think outside of the box when figuring out something that works for you. Thanks for sharing your excellent idea 💡
Thanks Jenna! I just purchased land that had a lot of clay. I've been putting off planting my trees because I didn't want to make a mistake. I'm glad I found your channel
My property is heavy clay and I planted several fruit trees and some grape vines. Your soil and PH can vary depending upon the tree variety, gypsum with sulfur is helpful but lime may be needed to raise the PH of acid soil. I made the mistake of not fertilizing my first grape for a year based upon all the buzz online, (Isons muskadine video) you should fertilize a month after planting a tree but away from the roots to make the tree grow to the fertilizer, I did this by poking holes several inches deep and pouring in fertilizer 2-3 ft from the trunk. When you choose a fertilizer, look for sulfur, zinc, manganese and other trace minerals needed by trees (Home Depot Citrus is a good choice), some organic blends also have mycorrhiza. Good luck with your new property.
Great video. I've planted a few fruit trees in clay. It's hard alright. I've thrown biochar, woodchips, sticks and branches in the whole to add organic matter. Mixed the native clay soil with mushroom compost. Planted the tree. Then I figured the roots will spread as far as the canopy so I made a 3mx3m top layer around the tree with a thick layer of woodchips to help the clay breakdown and be less compacted overtime so the tips of the roots feel comfy. I also plant marigolds and other beneficial plants in the mulched area to bring in beneficial insects helping with pests. (Subtropical Sunshine coast in Queensland Australia) My advice from what I learnt: Mix the native soil with woodchips, compost, egg/oyster shells and plant in that. Keep some native soil aside to create a well around the plant to help water stay in root zone until established. All the best to all.
Hi Jenna, Great video with tons of information about clay soil and in general good planting techniques. I am in central Ohio and clay soil has been the bane of my tree growing experience as well. I have about 25 that I planted and survived in the last 23 years. Many years ago I watched a master gardener who had very similar advise for planting trees and he had one additional tip and I thought I might share it here in this thread. He used a PVC pipe with holes and I improvised by cutting one side of the pipe about half an inch and placed it in the planting hole. This serves two purposes. One I can use a bucket of water the tree and the water will reach the bottom of the hole and have the roots naturally reach the water source at the bottom while not disturbing the top of the planting hole. Secondly after a year its easier to provide fertilizers through the same mechanism while helping the roots establishing themselves better. Thanks for the great video which served as a refresher for me. 👍
I appreciate the way you explain things, and the overlayed pictures you added. I am starting to grow fruit trees in heavy clay, and this was really helpful. Thanks a lot!
One technique that I’ve found extremely helpful when planting my trees and bushes in my heavy clay soil, is to use a broadfork (with a minimum 12” tines) at the bottom and along the sides of my planting hole, which helps create some looser pathways to help with drainage and to provide some less compacted areas where the roots can more easily grow into. I also will lightly broadfork a 3-4’ diameter circle around the tree after backfilling, just to help aid a little bit more with the drainage of the area around the tree.
Been planting fruit trees for 30 years (45 now). Not schooled. Just did what Mom told me to and took over what my momma did when she past. Lots of heavy clay on my property (southern CA). 2 things that you didn't mention but have worked for me. Just as you noted 4'x4' works awesome, but I usually pre-dig the hole 2 months in advance and compost it with shredded amazon cardboard and food scraps (mixing in the native clay). I use a soaker hose to slow, deep water the mound 2 days each week or so, until planting. (We have good worms here and soaking draws them, otherwise I would add worms). 2ndly, I usually plant graft site even or tad higher with trench about 8-10" out and 3-4" down depending on how big the tree will end up. I cut a soaker hose to sit on the outside edge of the trench and put a quick disconnect plug so I can just leave it there. (put a shored-up terminal plug on it so it doesn't get dirt or bugs inside when not in use.) The reason I really like the trench is that ever so often I put in citrus tree fertilizing pellets (tree stakes outside the trench in November) and the pellets sit so nice in the trench. Have yourself some Fine planting!
thats a really interesting idea. do you dig out that compost and worm mix before planting and replace with the more clay heavy soil like jenna does as well or just plant strait into that compost soil? Do the worms in that spot help to break up the clay soil surrounding the hole or just make a nice fertile spot for the tree?
@@matthewantonello5029 Matthew, Sorry I don't get onto to the puter to reply in a timely manner, life's just that way. To answer your questions: Pre-Composted soil is the best (in my opinion) (and if you pre-compost you wont need extra filler/clay soil when you have a 2+ year old potted tree) and tree roots take off from there (after 3 years they go where they want and are super aggressive... don't water them for a year & they will still survive). Note: most fruit tree roots have 80% of the roots less than 9" deep. If wide tree limbs after 4 years of planting, create 2nd drip line to extend with it (extending drip time for the second line, keeping primary at 48 hours or so... if dirt seems foamy at any time then turn off water). To answer your 2nd question: soft soil is what is necessary for worms to feed. Not exactly scientific, but they like it better. I've seen 3 layers of different types of worms (up to 5 feet deep), hence the reason for the slow drip to permeate the layers of soil and draw them up. To specifically answer your question: 'break up soil' and 'fertile spot for the tree' are the same thing (in my opinion). Slow drip will bring worms up and give you free 'black gold' ground. Example: My 10 year old son dug a 3 foot trench (2'x 3.5' approx) to play with his army men. It rained. Trench filled. 40 hours later there was still water. We have some tough clay! I never composted that area, but my mom used clay buster there back in the 80s. In contrast, Every spot I have composted and planted has been a jungle of growth. My 3 passion fruit plants at different parts of the yard this year will be the end of me..... LOL
I used to work on apple orchard farms in the UK and NZ. I've planted and pruned tens of thousands of trees, and it is still all a mystery to me! My gut feeling is give them lots of space, choose the right kind of soil ph, and water in well, and water well again when the fruits are emerging during the 'June drop'. Clay soil can be a good thing, as it retains moisture and nutrients. I love your vids, Jenna, your passion is amazing! Thank you.
What a fun job! Honestly, there is still so much that is a mystery to me about nature. I feel I could live a thousand lifetimes and not even scratch the surface of what there is to learn. You are spot on- in the middle of summer I'm happy to have clay soil as it retains moisture much better than other types. I'm watering once or twice a month instead of every other day! Take care!
Good video Jenna, but it is a very wide subject, at least an hour. There is lot of different clay type, and usualy it is good to lift up the plant, to be cca 2 inches higher then clay soil, and deeply aerate the soi aroun tree, and repeat again when it became compacted again. In wet clay there is no decomposition, dry clay is very hard, clay mixed with gravel is another problem. Your father is absolutely right. Root quality of the planted tree is story for itself, another hour, very often bare root are ugly cutted, potted tree roots messed up in a too small container, etc... Trees grafted on cuttings are another story. And as you said, planting older trees in clay can be a big problem, adaptation time can be very long, and they usually die after 2-3 year if you are not realy very carefull. Loooong story. Regards from Croatia :)
You are absolutely correct- - nearly every gardening topic deserves an hour or more. But I try to get the most information across in the least time possible, because most folks don't have the time (or the desire) to watch for that amount of time. You do bring up some very important points and I appreciate the feedback- take care!
Wow, amazing how much useful info in such short time! As an experienced fruitfarmer myself, didn't learn a lot but couldn't have done it any better and agree with all said, bravo! Like
Excellent advice for planting fruit trees. My father-in-law always mentioned "dig a $50 hole for a $5 tree" whenever I mentioned planting trees on our property. I learned the hard way to place tree guards around newly planted trees. I lost a Honeycrisp apple to sun scald and another tree to deer that rubbed it's antlers on the unprotected trunk and killed it.
A lot of gardeners in AZ are switching to shallow holes instead. Easier to dig for 1 but it apparently helps the tree establish faster than those planted in large holes.
About every time I think about growing something or how to store potatoes, you come out with a great video on the topic. Thank you so much from OH Zone 6a
Very helpful Jenna! Planting 2 different apple trees! I’m on clay and rocks- so the advice of the rotting wood and leaves at the bottom of the hole first is excellent advice!!
She is totally amazing.. I’m mesmerized.. I’m in Missouri.. so we plant our tress spring time.. peach apple.. dang your pretty…and yes I got ever thing you put forth..
I totally planted my fruit tree without putting the native soil back. I was actually going to ask what you do with the soil you dug out initially. Well i learned something new....
Thanks Jenna, especially for the expectation that this is not something to look forward to (except for the fruit part). I have been waiting for Autumn to get started and this week the hot weather took a break. It took me time across two days to dig that hole, but now the tree is planted I have stood back and admired my tree (Pomegranate). I have four more trees to plant this week. I am feeling my shoulders and my clothes are filthy, I feel so happy to have given my little tree a great start.
I dig a big hole and then mix leaf compost with the clay and it really improves soil structure. Then every spring I make a new ring of mixed clay and compost around the tree, thus increasing the diameter to be just a bit bigger than the tree's drip line. Seems to be working and less daunting then making a huge 10' diameter hole all at once. I mulch with wood chips as well.
@@jennhoff03 YEP DIG A TRENCH AND MIX IN COMPOST, so as roots grow they keep on growing into good soil. otherwise clay will slow down root growth and thus tree growth at least in theory.
Thank you so much Jena I’m getting ready to plant 8 fruit trees starting a orchard for my two grandchildren thank you so much for all your wonderful help you tough me a tune Mike
This was a fantastic video!! Informative, thorough, and easy to understand. You inspired me to subscribe and have paved the way for my own adventure into starting an orchard on our property. Thank you, Jenna!
I was looking for info on how to prep my heavy clay soil to take on a pear tree. You have gotten me all the info I needed to supply myself with all the necessary materials to do that. Thank you for such detailed presentation and explanation.
Raise the bed (the higher the better) and mulch it deep, like 1ft of mulch. The mulch keeps the clay from drying out and cracking, and the worms go gangbusters in there and vastly improve the drainage.
This is the second of your videos, I have watched today, and I just happen to have a Peartree that needs planting out. My soil is also clay. Thank you so much for all your tips and advice. Very much appreciated.
Hi Jenna, I am planting a sweet cherry tree in clay soil with lots of flint and now understand to prepare soil deeper and wider to accommodate a young tree (medium growth height) - at present under 5 feet high and 3 feet wide and will bury sticks at base as indicated so thank you from Terence Brooker
Thank you for this episode! I live in the aptly named "Town of Clay, NY" near Syracuse. Being part of an old original settlement era 'cider orchard', my backyard is full of 100 year+ old spiny apple trees and their descendants. Unfortunately. some of my old trees have gotten very gnarly, with many dead branches, and it's time to clear up parts of the yard. I'd like to replace some cleared areas with newly planted, modern fruit trees, but I face the prospect of planting in clay soil that matches what you show in your yard exactly. You've inspired me to know that this can be done. Thank you.
Town of Clay... 😆. What a cool little piece of history you have there! It will be neat to revamp the planting and add in some new trees ( a lot of work I'm sure, but well worth it). Best of luck!
This made sense and you gave the reasoning behind the protocol. There was a point where I was confused: Directly after you filled the hole's bottom w the hugulkultur idea of sticks + leafmold -- you said, "And then, I'm just going to start filling w "fill dirt" -- WHILE you shovelled on a spadeful or two of extremely dark, organic-mat'l-type soil, (upon which you did not comment) and THEN began back-filling w "fill dirt", as you once again called it, but this time it was the broken-up version of the native soil you had removed from the planting hole. I understand all the rest of your instructions I hope. Thank you!!
I have spots that I dig out as fire pits. I sit around and burn cardboard and old wood. I use the charcoal and ash to mix with the native soil to improve it. I also throw in some garbage like banana peels and eggshells and other nasty kitchen things. I also like to use old spots after a tree has been cut down and the roots have rotted for a while so that the new roots can eat the old nutirients. Then I take beer boxes and sheet mulch with them. Then I take branches, actual mulch, or grass clippings and mulch over all of that. I also try to aim for planting the tree the day of, or the day before a massive rain so that I don't even have to water it in. I like burying the sticks or logs as well, but I try to keep them well below, or to the side of the tree's roots because I read that the wood can tie up the nitrogen. I had a serviceberry tree that suffered it's first year because of this, I think. It is fine now, though.
A little late to the comment thread, but I just found you while searching fruit trees in clay. Lived in Sputhern California all my life and recently relocated to Southwest Arkansas. Lots of clay, lots of shale and underground quartz threads, and very challenging drainage. Love, love, love your details and support! ❤
Dear Jenna, I am planting some new apple, pear, and berry in a small yard in mostly red soil/clay covered with gravel in Arizona. I feel like I just found a free new gold mine in your video. You are a most generous and watchable expert. I will not directly mention that you also radiate the 3 Eternal Verities, especially # 2! Planting is a lot of fun, and so is listening to your presentation. Thank you, thank you! "Hugelkultur" looks like German for "hill culture," and will be something else novel and fun to explore. Another field that is being introduced to me is toxicity of certain plants to dogs. The intersection of plant culture and veterinary science is something new and challenging. I will be watching all your videos, and blessing your presence on my screen. Au revoir.
That is the 3 Eternal Verities in the order presented by Howard Gardner in "Truth, Beauty, and Goodness Reframed." which I have not actually read yet, but probably will soon.
For my clay soil problem, I bought a small excavator, used, for ~15k on ebay, then sold it six months later for 15k. In the end, essentially a free six month rental. With the excavator, I carved out a series of small hills about two feet tall or so, with ditches in between them that all drain out toward the main ditch at the edge of my property. Even now, I still have to plant my fruit trees in a special way that allows for drainage to the ditch, but now, no matter where I plant them, there is always a ditch just a couple feet away.
I did the same thing and used concrete blocks to hold the sides of the 3 foot deep ditch. Filled the bottom with gravel and it makes a nice walking path.
Hi Jenna, I live in an area that has a high annual rainfall of 3300mm-4600mm. During years of extremely wet season, we have 24 hours non stop rain of 3~5 days. This method of planting in clay soil do cause issues in fruit plants that are sensitive to water pooling in clay soil planting holes. What we do to circumvent this issue is to have a planting mound of 450mm to 900mm, allowing it to settle and weeds to grow before planting the fruit plant. We find this useful for plants with tap roots or fibrous roots.
Really excellent video. I was losing hope of being able to have a fruit tree in my yard because of the heavy clay soil. Your video was perfect! Thank you!
Always the best information Mrs. Jenna. So happy to hear you busy that myth. So wild how some people always want to start some kind of myth. We have heavy clay here also so you hit things dead on the head. Stay safe my friend!
I'm glad to have found your channel, many of the other gardener help channels don't cover the type of surface and weather we have in Southern Ohio. The difficulties you have are the same ones I have, Thank you
Nicely done. Great info, especially for clay soil. Very thorough. I'm experienced with fruit trees, and you helped me learn some new tips for clay soil.
hi Jenna. my clay rocky soil killed all trees i tried to grow them in and was very hard to dig in.. i now just lay down cardboard. push a stake down thru the cardboard to tie the tree to. place your tree roots on top of the card board next to stake. bury the roots/ cardboard with good draining soil. tamp well. mulch with 4in of woodchips and water well. ive planted many dozens of trees/ plants over the last 7 years and never lost 1. over time the soil settles and gets used up and in 3-4 yrs its flat again. growth rate is phenomenal with just occasional compost and fresh mulch placed on every spring. try it! it saves you alot of work and is super easy to do.
Watching this video makes me realize the obvious. Different between clay soil and well just pure clay. My yard is pure clay. Guess I quit trying to plant things and open a pottery business instead.
Nice presentation. My main tip to add would be soak your trees in a bucket of seaweed solution or some sort of humic solution before planting. Gives them a boost, less chance of air bubbles entering the roots and makes roots more supple so less chance of getting damaged. Not so important for a dormant tree in a wet bag vs a potted plant but still good practice. I like your hole digging method and fine for certain trees in not so high rainfall areas. Here in a wet year (La Niña here) trees can really suffer or die using that method and something like a avo and to a lesser extent citrus really likes to grow in a humic layer. My preferred method for planting a single tree is: soak tree in seaweed solution; dig a tiny hole not much wider than the root ball; put the bottom third/half in the hole; dump a wheel barrow of compost around the tree to mound up to the appropriate height; dump the seaweed solution from the soak bucket on the tree; maybe water in another bucket if it’s a dry year; cover with lawn clippings to suppress weeds; as it grows pile on branches/leaves/waste fruit anything to create fungus/humic layer. A lot easier than digging a big hole and works better here. Trees can require a bit more regular irrigation as there on a slight mound but it’s not that big a mound. Air in the soil can be the limiting factor a lot of the time rather than water when growing in clay. The way I look at it is the deep woody roots just punch down into the clay to stabilise the tree and keep the water pressure up during dry periods so not that much point worrying about creating to much of a nice environment for them. The fine feeder roots near the surface are constantly being replaced so i just want to make a nice humic mound with plenty of air and fungus for them to feed. On a side note for larger scale I would deep rip down the hill to drain the subsoil then contour.
Thanks for sharing. I love the tip about soaking in humic or seaweed solution. I typically soak my bareroot tree roots before planting, but never thought to add anything into the water- thanks for that!
The problem with putting wood under your tree is that the tree will sink down as the wood rottens. If you put back all the soil you dug out and form a pile where you put the tree, it should be fine.
@@lauranilsen8988 No, I meant the wood is still under the tree but you don't aim for flat soil when planting. Instead the tree should be on a pile of soil so it eventually becomes flat when the wood is rotting. Otherwise you get a hole where the tree is.
Nice video. I had seen that rumor about trees becoming root bound in round holes and it struck me as nonsense even just hearing it, without gardening experience. Good to have that confirmed.
Peach Grower's Tip: Once your hole is dug, get a 4' length of 3"PVC pipe. Use a zip tie to cover one end of the pipe with nylon screen and stick that end into your hole at an angle. Add a handful of gravel, small rocks, broken pottery, etc. to keep the end of the pipe from filling up with soil. Plant the tree normally but be sure that a small section of the root ball is close to the bottom of the pipe. When it comes time to water/fertilize pour it down the pipe so it goes directly to the roots. This will prevent evaporation and runoff...it's also easier than trying to water in a freak'n tree. Once the tree is established stop using the pipe to water and see how it does. If the tree can survive on it's own you can remove the pipe and fill in the hole. Oh, use a 3" pipe cap to keep wasps and spiders out of the open end of the pipe.
Thanks for sharing! I watched a video where they did this method- I think it would work great in certain soil types- but have some concern about the risk of overwatering/root rot in clay soil. Have you tried this in heavy clay?
@@GrowfullywithJenna Sorry for the wall-o'-text! It works on un-amended Texas black gumbo, which bakes hard as a brick in Summer and sheds water like a duck. We dressed holes with composted sugar cane trash, recycled mushroom compost, and some of the native soil. You want enough tilth for the tree to grow but also encourage root growth outside of the hole, otherwise a hard wind can uproot it. NOTE: The sugar cane and mushroom compost is NOT a recipe; it was what we could source cheap and locally..
I grew up in Northern British Colombia, 1bout 150 km from the coast and we had wonderful fruit trees. I now live in Alberta and planted fruit trees but they all died as the soil is very heavy clay soil and I did make the mistake of planting them in an area that had poor drainage. There is a mound in my back yard that I think is decades old, probably created when someone was clearing land with a bull dozer. I am going to plant at least a couple of fruit trees on that mound next spring. However, I love fruit trees. It's free food with no weeding, tilling, planting every year, etc. I'd like to plant more in my yard. I am wondering if planting fruit trees in a raised bed in option. I am wondering if a 5' by 5' 4' deep bed is enough for one fruit tree. To pick the fruit, I'd use a ladder. The dirt in the bed could grow grass or flowers, or something else. What are your thoughts on this? Anyone ?
I'm curious about this too, but have never tried it. Eventually your roots are going to outgrow that bed, but I wonder if by giving the tree time to get established, by the time it hits the soil outside of the raised bed it might be strong enough to power through? But you could also have the effect of where the roots hit the native soil and just stop... I'd love to hear from anyone who has tried this!
Try making drainage channels which are broad and shallow- like by mowing tight, tilling and grading up to planting ridges with a blade machine or broad hoe on smaller scale. The channel bottom can slope very little- create ridges, but not gullys! Mulch planting sites heavily and water for a season ahead of time with taproot cover crops like mustard and lupin before planting.
If you put a short piece of flexible pipe in the hole so that the opening is right under the root ball, you will make watering much more efficient. Pouring those buckets of water on the soil is helpful when the soil settles, but after that, it takes a bunch of water to moisten the soil just one inch down. If you use a pipe, the water goes right where it is needed, and you can throw some on top, too, if it makes you feel good. Let the pipe stick out of the ground six or eight inches and it will be easy to pull out when the tree is established. Also, take it easy on the manure and compost. Too much nutrition encourages aphids, and you won't like that. Trees don't need to be fed.
I've seen that method, but have also been told by other folks growing in clay that it's not the best option for our soil type as it can encourage root rot. I can't say I've ever had issues with aphids on the trees that I've fed. In general, supplementing trees with natural 'food' encourages strong, healthy growth which helps them naturally fend off pests and disease.
Life pro tip. You can piss down the pipe to fertilize as well on those nights when you are hammered and stumbling around your yard. The worms like it too, but don't do it too much!!!
This is a great video! So many great tips and the phrase $50 hole for a $5 tree rings so true. This is the video I've been looking for to properly plant my fruit tree! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Thank you so much for this video. I have been planting in clay soil and really just could not get my trees to survive. Your video has changed the way I am planting and hopefully I will be apple to get my trees to thrive.
As a retired stone fruit grower, Okanagan Valley British Columbia. We had soils, some pure sand, right to very high PH 8+, most of the trees in the heavy clay soils we're on a slight mound. Now to the rest of the story, my winter getaway in in the desert of AZ zone 9 , very little frost, chill hours here are the issue. On a 7.5K sq ft lot next to home site I have 25 trees, I dug the holes with a backhoe, added manure, and stirred I let it sit for a year, watering it, Then planted. The trees thrived, BUT the dirt, as I call it, 0.5 % organic, 8+ pH, weren't inviting for the tree, and I've had wind breakage, uprooting issues. Now I've got tons, literally gravel trucks worth of manure, chips, alfalfa pellets plant waste, spread under the trees, and am finding the tree roots are in the loam that is forming. My tip is plant the trees higher than level, the organics will decompose, settle, causing a water pond, trp, and here we get monsoons, as other areas get heavy rains, causing rot rot issues. We have terrible drainage issues here, a layer on caliche, solid calcium carbonate, and my soil takes about 12 hrs to drain the holes, now I put a gallon of pool acid into each hole after the 1st initially filling with water, it's something I learned from the farmers here that grow cotton, alfalfa, roses, veggies as field crops, it wakes the soil up. I tried the rows between the trees 1st, saw a great improvement in cover crops. So now all my present planting get that acid boost, let the hole drain, leach the acid away , and refill before planting, let drain away, then I plant into that hole with amended soil mix, watering as I fill, no air holes, less risk of settling. Planting 2 sweet cherries soon, bareroot, finally a 200-300 chill hr cherry. Holes are getting prepped, trees come in Jan, fill soil is getting mixed, turned, prepped ahead, trees love it. If you have winds, plant the graft union accordingly, the new wood into the wind, stronger tree. Happy growing.
When planting trees that are already well established in a pot where they've lived their whole life in great potting soil, I've had great luck mixing the dirt I've dug up with a little bit of potting soil. Going heavier closer to the plant and then in layers around it going lighter and lighter. I do try to put a bit of compost in there to encourage the worms to come over and do their work. Bare root trees get the neglect version of planting, dig a hole and drop it. I love that you emphasized watering them in, it's so important!
@@GrowfullywithJenna , I thought of another idea for a fun interactive video! Dadisms! Funny things your dad used to say about gardening. Like the $50 hole for a $5 plant. I loved that, he sounds very wise, and reminded me of my dad. My dad used to say "if I ever get pushed out of an airplane I want 50 feet of garden hose wrapped around me, because I know it will get caught on something before I hit the ground" 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you‼️❤️ I live in Paradise CA. 4 yrs ago The Whole town burned down. So I have the opportunity to start right. Our clay is the red clay. I had been told “sand” well after your experiment I can see I better find a farmer with cows🤣 I’m going to try the rye cover crop too. Thx 😻
I had planted a meyer lemon tree several years ago, and my dog, who was a hyper little puppy at the time - chewed the trunk of the newly planted tree. About 50% of it was chewed through before I saw her and stopped it. But - the tree survived, and became a very prolific, and large, lemon tree.
Thank you so much for the advice. I have several fruit trees I am planting in a Canadian northern region of zone 2 -3 (very cold winters) under cover of a large greenhouse. Our soil is incredibly clay bound and I was going to put compost inside the hole. I will follow your advise, it makes a lot of sense.
Excellent! Exactly the questions I had! And you gave me more information than I had considered even asking! Cuz what do I know? (Not much here) I have a Mulberry, Orange, and Lemon to get in the ground! Bravo Video!
I keep a circle of wire around my tree's, to the 4 year have alot of deer.and also stake it we have crazy wind also, I also have all stone fruit at the top of hill wholes them back from blooming one week later, it's also fun to learn grafting. Last year I had some peach whips my neighbor has nice red plums, so I grafted the plum to the peach 2 of had 1ft. Growth needed this for pollination of a big plum I have. Some of my apple trees are 50 years old ,so I'm putting whole new tops ,have 5 different apples on one tree, so exciting well have my first apples on this tree this year.
The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The next best time is today. One other tip: Give space between the trunk of the tree and the mulch. Mulch holds water and you don't want the trunk above ground to sit in water. Awesome video. I wish this had been up a couple of weeks aog. I planted my Liberty Apple tree last Friday. :)
Yes, yes, yes! For anyone who's on the fence about planting a tree-- do it now! And thanks for mentioning the mulch- that was one point I missed. You definitely don't want it up around the trunk of the tree. Enjoy that 'Liberty' apple!
I work on clay soils 9 out of 10 times. I am familiar with Ohio (DeVilbiss HS, Toledo and Antioch College '72) but an old eroded soil in the West is a different animal, as is a river bottom gravelly soil full of hard volcanic rocks. And I do things differently than you, most times. But! it depends- on the tree: size, species, root stock and more. A dwarf tree planted in a compacted soil is a piteous thing indeed. It's good you're demonstrating IN a garden, which sets a fair number of constants. (like: water in a hose is a given!) I've been doing this long enough that I can climb in many of the trees I've planted. In some ultisols (I like to define "ultisol" as "the ultimate worst soil") I often spend a year cover-cropping, mulching and watering the spot, before planting. Sometimes that means putting a ring dam around the spot to hold the water, if the spot is out of the range of a hose. My trees will often get nurse plants, often nitrogen fixers, and the nurse plants are often tortured for mulch, the poor devils. I have been criticized for using Scots Broom, an invasive legume, but if it is present, it works, the roots penetrate hard pan and the cut branches are excellent mulch. Yes, all the information you give is spot-on, in most garden conditions. You ever hear of planting deep so that the graft roots, then every 4th year cutting the tree down? Saves dramatically on pruning time and yields much more, firewood. That was done by a crazy Brit expat doing an orchard in France, so pruning labor was tremendous. I often do a hole with a cone of undisturbed soil in the center, with a crenellated outer edge, the number of bays depending on the number of major roots, Thus the tree sits on undisturbed soil, and each major root has it's own alley to head out in. I don't put raw dry organic material deep in the hole, but I do mix some finished (low Nitrogen) compost into the fill, mixing really well. And I don't use a cheap stamped round point shovel to do anything but move loosened soil. I do my loosening with a pick mattock or maybe a Pulaski. But then, my current home ground was once a used car lot. (Talk about compaction!) I volunteer with Friends of Trees so we're planting many large donated trees, usually along streets and sidewalks. You may be unwinding circling roots that are 4 or 5 feet long into a custom-dug root run. That means an irregular, maybe star-shaped hole, or cutting a fat root back!
Thanks for sharing your experience in planting trees in more challenging conditions! I love that you mention spending years cover cropping, mulching etc. prior to planting. Many folks don't want to spend that much time- but it really does give you much better results. And I have never heard of planting the graft deep and cutting every 4 years-- very interesting!
Thank you for the instructional video Ma’am. Now time to plant pear trees in memories of our son that passed away in a motorcycle accident at 21 years old so we are planting 21 pear trees. Y’all have a blessed day hold your family tight. Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas. -Sig
What you described there, w why plant roots REALLY might circle, instead of reaching out, it is called by some, a "bathtub effect". It can also cause a plant to drown, as in a bathtub.
I use gypsum, sand, perlite, and rough up the sides by gouging with a pick axe and my apple trees do really good in clay so long as I amend the clay soil.
Your channel has grown a lot! Great tips. I've learned that planting native flowers around my establishing trees frees up the clay, pulls water down, builds topsoil, and also keeps the deer off the trees! So now I always try for wildflowers on the north side and fruit/nut/veggies on the south.
@@GrowfullywithJenna smelly flowers, they don't want to rub in smelly stuff. Bee balm, blazing star, coreopsis, yarrow (especially yarrow), and black eyed Susan all keep seed heads and are tall enough. . I use last years stalks to stake around new fruit and veggie growth this spring and they kept off everything so far!
@@GrowfullywithJenna of course deer will sometimes go hog wild on the spring shoots, I just found a pretty big section of black eyed Susan munched down. But they were literally 6 feet from 2 apple trees and didn't strip the leaves, which was a problem the 2 previous years before I put natives into the same bed. The more variety for deer, the better it seems.
Jenna, I was a professional gardener, and my focus was fruit trees. You did an excellent job in this presentation. I was listening and waiting for old information or folk traditions that have been proven wrong, but you nailed it 100%. Well done. I'd say I don't even know why I clicked on this video, but that wouldn't be true. But I'm glad I did. You deserve my subscription if just to help you out.
Thank you so much. I appreciate the kind feedback and support. Take care!
Ở
I am a master gardener for 30 years. We run ten acres of organic gardens and 200 fruit trees.
0⁰0l00l
She also deserves your click of the like button.
The thing is, if you've got clay soil, a lawn on it is always gonna result in a compacted poor draining soil. If you had a meadow with tough perennials on it, that helps a lot with compaction and drainage. Wild grass or wild perennials also are the best at improving drainage. Brambles and nettle are two tough plants that really improve drainage. Unfortunately they're not decorative at all. But letting an area where drainage is awful be wild for a few years, will improve it a lot. Few people are willing to let it go wild though. In our clay soil, we've planted a lot of fruits trees. And the best advice I can give is this : plant them young. Trees that are tall do not do well, they take a while to adapt, even if it's a species that can tolerate clay soils like apple trees or pear trees. SO now we only plant trees that are 2 or 3 years old max, maybe 20-30 cm tall. They adapt much more quickly, and we have a lot less of them dying from being suffocated in that damp soil over winter. They also require less care in the first year, coz their root system develops more easily. ANd of course by far the best is to sow pits directly into the ground. Peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, are perfect for this. Eat them and immediately sow them into the prepared ground (just remove the weeds, sow, add mulch). They'll germinate the following Spring (maybe a 20-30 % success rate though, you've got to sow many pits), and give you the best trees ever : a strong tap root that'll make them impervious to drought, and no diseases. You can't really do this with pears or apples though, coz it doesn't stay the same variety as the fruit you ate, you're gonna have small fruits. Sown trees take also longer to produce than grafted bought trees, but since they're more resistant, productive, and free, it's well worth a try...
This is exactly what we are doing at my folk's property. A large amount of their land was conventionally farmed for decades and it compacted and awful. Dad is letting it run wild right now. He also throws out pits, seeds.. whatever he has, and lets the strong survive. It's a very interesting living experiment. Thanks for sharing this!
Can nuts like hazelnuts be planted like this?
@@singinprofessor5260 I imagine so. Certainly works for acorns.
VERY good advice. We let two acres go “wild” for three years due to it being compact red clay that wouldn’t drain at all! Planted for the first time last year. Our apple trees and blueberry bushes look AMAZING this year. Saves a ton of money and a lot of back breaking work doing it this way. We’re letting two more acres go this year.
@@kj_H65f we always have a ton of little trees from the squirrels. Spring time is a scavenger hunt to find all the little trees dig them up and re pot them because they are always to close to the house or in the way of the mower.
One of the BEST tree planting videos I have EVER seen!
The details you included are some of that basic info most videos lack. Like what a root ball actually is.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation on why trees planted with "aftermarket soil", as my dad would say, struggle in later years vs plants planted in a higher % of native soils. I also used to throw compost and sticks in the bottom of all my holes, but My university is doing a study on why you shouldn't put compost or organic decaying material on the bottom of your new establishing plant. The theory being your tree is going to be exposed to saprophitic, allelopathic, and pathogenic vectors vs. Stones/or gravel that just allow space. Right now 5 years in to the study, in basically every tested categorie, the non organics are outperforming the organic at the bottom, of plants. But if it's worked for you this long I'm not going to be the one to tell you to stop, just think it's interesting! Thank you for being a steward of knowledge.
Fascinating! Is there anything online yet, so that I could follow along with the study? This does go against what I've seen in my own garden- both with planting trees this way and with my hügelkultur plantings, but I'd love to see the final results of the study nonetheless. Thanks for sharing!
Also curious about this. Does it damage the tree? Create rot, or disturb the fruit?
I've been planting a fruit trees over dead animals for a few years. I've got 2 beach plums with a chicken under one of them and that one has more branches than the other. I will dig a hole deep enough to allow 2 feet of soil between the bottom of the root ball and the animal. I've got a raccoon under a cherry tree that's doing well, but I didn't have the cash for two cherry trees at the time, so I can't compare the results. I planted the plum trees in the spring of 2018.
@@jonathanellis8921 Carcasses are the best of both worlds, the bones acting as inorganic material and calcium and the meat acting as slow release fertiliser.
@@jonathanellis8921 I fill my potted plants with housecat carcases.
Excellent advice. I planted 175 fruit trees (peaches, pears and apples) 10 years ago as a retirement project. We have very heavy soil and four of my 75 peach trees failed after about 3 years. I learned that while they like a lot of water they also don't like their "feet" wet! With subsequent plantings I created large mounds of our soil. That requires more watering of the trees, but it does cause the water to run away enough so that the trees have done well. Just another possibility for those who want to grow peaches in heavy soil. It too has draw backs though as the uneven ground makes thinning, trimming and picking more difficult. BUT there is nothing that matches the taste of a fresh peach!
Great tips! And I agree wholeheartedly- nothing like a fresh peach!
What a great idea. Just goes to show you there’s no “right way” to grow something and gardening is much about experimentation. There’s upsides and downsides to every technique and it’s good to think outside of the box when figuring out something that works for you. Thanks for sharing your excellent idea 💡
Thanks Jenna! I just purchased land that had a lot of clay. I've been putting off planting my trees because I didn't want to make a mistake. I'm glad I found your channel
Glad I could help!
Clay actually has a lot of nutrients it just has poor drainage! So keep adding organic material to help. Don't add sand or you will get concrete!
My property is heavy clay and I planted several fruit trees and some grape vines. Your soil and PH can vary depending upon the tree variety, gypsum with sulfur is helpful but lime may be needed to raise the PH of acid soil. I made the mistake of not fertilizing my first grape for a year based upon all the buzz online, (Isons muskadine video) you should fertilize a month after planting a tree but away from the roots to make the tree grow to the fertilizer, I did this by poking holes several inches deep and pouring in fertilizer 2-3 ft from the trunk. When you choose a fertilizer, look for sulfur, zinc, manganese and other trace minerals needed by trees (Home Depot Citrus is a good choice), some organic blends also have mycorrhiza. Good luck with your new property.
@heavymechanic2 good advice. Clay may have lots of minerals but they are stuck and can't be taken up with out a proper pH.
Great video. I've planted a few fruit trees in clay. It's hard alright. I've thrown biochar, woodchips, sticks and branches in the whole to add organic matter. Mixed the native clay soil with mushroom compost. Planted the tree. Then I figured the roots will spread as far as the canopy so I made a 3mx3m top layer around the tree with a thick layer of woodchips to help the clay breakdown and be less compacted overtime so the tips of the roots feel comfy. I also plant marigolds and other beneficial plants in the mulched area to bring in beneficial insects helping with pests. (Subtropical Sunshine coast in Queensland Australia)
My advice from what I learnt: Mix the native soil with woodchips, compost, egg/oyster shells and plant in that. Keep some native soil aside to create a well around the plant to help water stay in root zone until established. All the best to all.
Thank you for sharing
You are so good, detailed, and methodical. I wished I had watched this 1 year ago.
Hi Jenna, Great video with tons of information about clay soil and in general good planting techniques. I am in central Ohio and clay soil has been the bane of my tree growing experience as well. I have about 25 that I planted and survived in the last 23 years. Many years ago I watched a master gardener who had very similar advise for planting trees and he had one additional tip and I thought I might share it here in this thread. He used a PVC pipe with holes and I improvised by cutting one side of the pipe about half an inch and placed it in the planting hole. This serves two purposes. One I can use a bucket of water the tree and the water will reach the bottom of the hole and have the roots naturally reach the water source at the bottom while not disturbing the top of the planting hole. Secondly after a year its easier to provide fertilizers through the same mechanism while helping the roots establishing themselves better. Thanks for the great video which served as a refresher for me. 👍
This video is like beef stew. Thick & Hearty, chock full of the good stuff with no fillers . Deeeeeeelicious information ma'am
😄 I got such a kick out of this! Thank you
I’m going to keep this in my pocket.. can’t wait to use it
I appreciate the way you explain things, and the overlayed pictures you added. I am starting to grow fruit trees in heavy clay, and this was really helpful. Thanks a lot!
You are most welcome, Lee! Best of luck with your fruit trees & take care!
One technique that I’ve found extremely helpful when planting my trees and bushes in my heavy clay soil, is to use a broadfork (with a minimum 12” tines) at the bottom and along the sides of my planting hole, which helps create some looser pathways to help with drainage and to provide some less compacted areas where the roots can more easily grow into. I also will lightly broadfork a 3-4’ diameter circle around the tree after backfilling, just to help aid a little bit more with the drainage of the area around the tree.
Thanks for sharing!
The broad fork is a mighty tool!
Been planting fruit trees for 30 years (45 now). Not schooled. Just did what Mom told me to and took over what my momma did when she past. Lots of heavy clay on my property (southern CA). 2 things that you didn't mention but have worked for me. Just as you noted 4'x4' works awesome, but I usually pre-dig the hole 2 months in advance and compost it with shredded amazon cardboard and food scraps (mixing in the native clay). I use a soaker hose to slow, deep water the mound 2 days each week or so, until planting. (We have good worms here and soaking draws them, otherwise I would add worms). 2ndly, I usually plant graft site even or tad higher with trench about 8-10" out and 3-4" down depending on how big the tree will end up. I cut a soaker hose to sit on the outside edge of the trench and put a quick disconnect plug so I can just leave it there. (put a shored-up terminal plug on it so it doesn't get dirt or bugs inside when not in use.) The reason I really like the trench is that ever so often I put in citrus tree fertilizing pellets (tree stakes outside the trench in November) and the pellets sit so nice in the trench.
Have yourself some Fine planting!
Thanks for sharing what has worked for you!
thats a really interesting idea. do you dig out that compost and worm mix before planting and replace with the more clay heavy soil like jenna does as well or just plant strait into that compost soil?
Do the worms in that spot help to break up the clay soil surrounding the hole or just make a nice fertile spot for the tree?
@@matthewantonello5029 Matthew, Sorry I don't get onto to the puter to reply in a timely manner, life's just that way. To answer your questions: Pre-Composted soil is the best (in my opinion) (and if you pre-compost you wont need extra filler/clay soil when you have a 2+ year old potted tree) and tree roots take off from there (after 3 years they go where they want and are super aggressive... don't water them for a year & they will still survive). Note: most fruit tree roots have 80% of the roots less than 9" deep. If wide tree limbs after 4 years of planting, create 2nd drip line to extend with it (extending drip time for the second line, keeping primary at 48 hours or so... if dirt seems foamy at any time then turn off water).
To answer your 2nd question: soft soil is what is necessary for worms to feed. Not exactly scientific, but they like it better. I've seen 3 layers of different types of worms (up to 5 feet deep), hence the reason for the slow drip to permeate the layers of soil and draw them up. To specifically answer your question: 'break up soil' and 'fertile spot for the tree' are the same thing (in my opinion). Slow drip will bring worms up and give you free 'black gold' ground.
Example: My 10 year old son dug a 3 foot trench (2'x 3.5' approx) to play with his army men. It rained. Trench filled. 40 hours later there was still water. We have some tough clay! I never composted that area, but my mom used clay buster there back in the 80s. In contrast, Every spot I have composted and planted has been a jungle of growth. My 3 passion fruit plants at different parts of the yard this year will be the end of me..... LOL
I used to work on apple orchard farms in the UK and NZ. I've planted and pruned tens of thousands of trees, and it is still all a mystery to me! My gut feeling is give them lots of space, choose the right kind of soil ph, and water in well, and water well again when the fruits are emerging during the 'June drop'. Clay soil can be a good thing, as it retains moisture and nutrients. I love your vids, Jenna, your passion is amazing! Thank you.
What a fun job! Honestly, there is still so much that is a mystery to me about nature. I feel I could live a thousand lifetimes and not even scratch the surface of what there is to learn.
You are spot on- in the middle of summer I'm happy to have clay soil as it retains moisture much better than other types. I'm watering once or twice a month instead of every other day!
Take care!
Good video Jenna, but it is a very wide subject, at least an hour. There is lot of different clay type, and usualy it is good to lift up the plant, to be cca 2 inches higher then clay soil, and deeply aerate the soi aroun tree, and repeat again when it became compacted again. In wet clay there is no decomposition, dry clay is very hard, clay mixed with gravel is another problem. Your father is absolutely right. Root quality of the planted tree is story for itself, another hour, very often bare root are ugly cutted, potted tree roots messed up in a too small container, etc... Trees grafted on cuttings are another story. And as you said, planting older trees in clay can be a big problem, adaptation time can be very long, and they usually die after 2-3 year if you are not realy very carefull. Loooong story. Regards from Croatia :)
You are absolutely correct- - nearly every gardening topic deserves an hour or more. But I try to get the most information across in the least time possible, because most folks don't have the time (or the desire) to watch for that amount of time. You do bring up some very important points and I appreciate the feedback- take care!
Wow, amazing how much useful info in such short time!
As an experienced fruitfarmer myself, didn't learn a lot but couldn't have done it any better and agree with all said, bravo! Like
Thank you so much!
Excellent advice for planting fruit trees. My father-in-law always mentioned "dig a $50 hole for a $5 tree" whenever I mentioned planting trees on our property. I learned the hard way to place tree guards around newly planted trees. I lost a Honeycrisp apple to sun scald and another tree to deer that rubbed it's antlers on the unprotected trunk and killed it.
It's sound advice! Sorry to hear you had to learn the hard way about tree guards... I did too!
I watched plenty of videos. Yours is hands down the most rich and informative. The root training techniques you mentioned are pure gold! ❤
A lot of gardeners in AZ are switching to shallow holes instead. Easier to dig for 1 but it apparently helps the tree establish faster than those planted in large holes.
Thanks for sharing!
About every time I think about growing something or how to store potatoes, you come out with a great video on the topic. Thank you so much from OH Zone 6a
I'm glad to hear it! Great minds think alike 😄. You are most welcome and I hope you have a great weekend!
Very helpful Jenna! Planting 2 different apple trees! I’m on clay and rocks- so the advice of the rotting wood and leaves at the bottom of the hole first is excellent advice!!
Glad it was helpful!
She is totally amazing.. I’m mesmerized.. I’m in Missouri.. so we plant our tress spring time.. peach apple.. dang your pretty…and yes I got ever thing you put forth..
I totally planted my fruit tree without putting the native soil back. I was actually going to ask what you do with the soil you dug out initially. Well i learned something new....
We're always learning something new as gardeners it seems!
As a fruit-bearing tree enthusiast, I learned a lot in your technique of putting some cut branches beneath.
❤ Thanks for the info.
You're welcome!
Thanks Jenna, especially for the expectation that this is not something to look forward to (except for the fruit part). I have been waiting for Autumn to get started and this week the hot weather took a break. It took me time across two days to dig that hole, but now the tree is planted I have stood back and admired my tree (Pomegranate). I have four more trees to plant this week. I am feeling my shoulders and my clothes are filthy, I feel so happy to have given my little tree a great start.
I found this just in time! And I'm so terribly jealous of your plot of land...
We’re lucky to have the plot we’re on!
I dig a big hole and then mix leaf compost with the clay and it really improves soil structure. Then every spring I make a new ring of mixed clay and compost around the tree, thus increasing the diameter to be just a bit bigger than the tree's drip line. Seems to be working and less daunting then making a huge 10' diameter hole all at once. I mulch with wood chips as well.
Thanks for sharing your method!
Like you dig a trench around it every year to fill in?
@@jennhoff03 YEP DIG A TRENCH AND MIX IN COMPOST, so as roots grow they keep on growing into good soil. otherwise clay will slow down root growth and thus tree growth at least in theory.
Thanks for sharing..this is what I’m thinking of doing too.
About how deep do u dig the trench?
I will build a homestead in new mexico with little gardening experience. Glad I came across this video.
Wonderful! Best of luck with your homestead!
Wonderful video, thank you so much. Now I'm absolutely pumped about planting my fall fruit trees.
You’re welcome! Happy planting!
Thank you so much Jena I’m getting ready to plant 8 fruit trees starting a orchard for my two grandchildren thank you so much for all your wonderful help you tough me a tune Mike
What a wonderful gift for your grandchildren!
This was a fantastic video!! Informative, thorough, and easy to understand. You inspired me to subscribe and have paved the way for my own adventure into starting an orchard on our property. Thank you, Jenna!
Thanks, Christine! What a wonderful new adventure- best of luck with your orchard!
I was looking for info on how to prep my heavy clay soil to take on a pear tree. You have gotten me all the info I needed to supply myself with all the necessary materials to do that. Thank you for such detailed presentation and explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Raise the bed (the higher the better) and mulch it deep, like 1ft of mulch. The mulch keeps the clay from drying out and cracking, and the worms go gangbusters in there and vastly improve the drainage.
Thanks
This is the second of your videos, I have watched today, and I just happen to have a Peartree that needs planting out. My soil is also clay. Thank you so much for all your tips and advice. Very much appreciated.
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Hi Jenna, I am planting a sweet cherry tree in clay soil with lots of flint and now understand to prepare soil deeper and wider to accommodate a young tree (medium growth height) - at present under 5 feet high and 3 feet wide and will bury sticks at base as indicated so thank you from Terence Brooker
Happy planting Terence!
I am a beginner and am gathering knowledge, incorporating all that makes sense to me for a healthy and successful harvest in my backyard ! thank you
Excellent approach, Priscilla! I hope you can find some useful tidbits here!
Thank you for this episode!
I live in the aptly named "Town of Clay, NY" near Syracuse.
Being part of an old original settlement era 'cider orchard', my backyard is full of 100 year+ old spiny apple trees and their descendants. Unfortunately. some of my old trees have gotten very gnarly, with many dead branches, and it's time to clear up parts of the yard. I'd like to replace some cleared areas with newly planted, modern fruit trees, but I face the prospect of planting in clay soil that matches what you show in your yard exactly.
You've inspired me to know that this can be done. Thank you.
Town of Clay... 😆. What a cool little piece of history you have there! It will be neat to revamp the planting and add in some new trees ( a lot of work I'm sure, but well worth it). Best of luck!
This made sense and you gave the reasoning behind the protocol.
There was a point where I was confused:
Directly after you filled the hole's bottom w the hugulkultur idea of sticks + leafmold -- you said, "And then, I'm just going to start filling w "fill dirt" -- WHILE you shovelled on a spadeful or two of extremely dark, organic-mat'l-type soil, (upon which you did not comment) and THEN began back-filling w "fill dirt", as you once again called it, but this time it was the broken-up version of the native soil you had removed from the planting hole.
I understand all the rest of your instructions I hope.
Thank you!!
Thanks for asking-- that was the leaf mould. I hope this clarifies- but if not, please let me know.
I have spots that I dig out as fire pits. I sit around and burn cardboard and old wood. I use the charcoal and ash to mix with the native soil to improve it. I also throw in some garbage like banana peels and eggshells and other nasty kitchen things.
I also like to use old spots after a tree has been cut down and the roots have rotted for a while so that the new roots can eat the old nutirients.
Then I take beer boxes and sheet mulch with them. Then I take branches, actual mulch, or grass clippings and mulch over all of that.
I also try to aim for planting the tree the day of, or the day before a massive rain so that I don't even have to water it in.
I like burying the sticks or logs as well, but I try to keep them well below, or to the side of the tree's roots because I read that the wood can tie up the nitrogen. I had a serviceberry tree that suffered it's first year because of this, I think. It is fine now, though.
These are great ideas!
I appreciate you sharing the process that works for you.
A little late to the comment thread, but I just found you while searching fruit trees in clay. Lived in Sputhern California all my life and recently relocated to Southwest Arkansas. Lots of clay, lots of shale and underground quartz threads, and very challenging drainage. Love, love, love your details and support! ❤
Barely four minutes in, and I'm already glad I decided to look up tips and tricks for clay soil before planting my new peach trees. Thank you! 💖
Dear Jenna, I am planting some new apple, pear, and berry in a small yard in mostly red soil/clay covered with gravel in Arizona. I feel like I just found a free new gold mine in your video. You are a most generous and watchable expert. I will not directly mention that you also radiate the 3 Eternal Verities, especially # 2! Planting is a lot of fun, and so is listening to your presentation. Thank you, thank you! "Hugelkultur" looks like German for "hill culture," and will be something else novel and fun to explore. Another field that is being introduced to me is toxicity of certain plants to dogs. The intersection of plant culture and veterinary science is something new and challenging. I will be watching all your videos, and blessing your presence on my screen. Au revoir.
That is the 3 Eternal Verities in the order presented by Howard Gardner in "Truth, Beauty, and Goodness Reframed." which I have not actually read yet, but probably will soon.
Very kind of you- thank you!
For my clay soil problem, I bought a small excavator, used, for ~15k on ebay, then sold it six months later for 15k. In the end, essentially a free six month rental.
With the excavator, I carved out a series of small hills about two feet tall or so, with ditches in between them that all drain out toward the main ditch at the edge of my property.
Even now, I still have to plant my fruit trees in a special way that allows for drainage to the ditch, but now, no matter where I plant them, there is always a ditch just a couple feet away.
Genius- love the idea of buying, using and reselling the excavator!
I did the same thing and used concrete blocks to hold the sides of the 3 foot deep ditch. Filled the bottom with gravel and it makes a nice walking path.
Hi Jenna, I live in an area that has a high annual rainfall of 3300mm-4600mm. During years of extremely wet season, we have 24 hours non stop rain of 3~5 days.
This method of planting in clay soil do cause issues in fruit plants that are sensitive to water pooling in clay soil planting holes.
What we do to circumvent this issue is to have a planting mound of 450mm to 900mm, allowing it to settle and weeds to grow before planting the fruit plant.
We find this useful for plants with tap roots or fibrous roots.
Thanks for sharing, James!
Awesome info! Placing the wood in the bottom is a great idea for future decay feeding nutrients.
Thanks!
Really excellent video. I was losing hope of being able to have a fruit tree in my yard because of the heavy clay soil. Your video was perfect! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Always the best information Mrs. Jenna. So happy to hear you busy that myth. So wild how some people always want to start some kind of myth. We have heavy clay here also so you hit things dead on the head. Stay safe my friend!
Thanks CB! There are so many wild myths running around on the internet these days 😆. Take care & have a great weekend!
Thank you for showing how to test for drainage. I have never been able to figure out how to know how to plant in an area with good drainage.
Glad to help
These days it would be a five hundred dollar hole for a fifty dollar tree.
Yes, unfortunately that's probably closer now-a-days!
I'm glad to have found your channel, many of the other gardener help channels don't cover the type of surface and weather we have in Southern Ohio. The difficulties you have are the same ones I have, Thank you
I'm glad you found my channel too, John! Always great to hear from fellow Ohio gardeners!
I love the presentation. Up to point and very helpful information.
Thanks so much!
AWESOME!! Thank you so very much!❤️🇨🇦
Nicely done. Great info, especially for clay soil. Very thorough. I'm experienced with fruit trees, and you helped me learn some new tips for clay soil.
I'm glad to hear that- thank you!
hi Jenna. my clay rocky soil killed all trees i tried to grow them in and was very hard to dig in.. i now just lay down cardboard. push a stake down thru the cardboard to tie the tree to. place your tree roots on top of the card board next to stake. bury the roots/ cardboard with good draining soil. tamp well. mulch with 4in of woodchips and water well. ive planted many dozens of trees/ plants over the last 7 years and never lost 1. over time the soil settles and gets used up and in 3-4 yrs its flat again. growth rate is phenomenal with just occasional compost and fresh mulch placed on every spring. try it! it saves you alot of work and is super easy to do.
That's very interesting- thank you for sharing your technique!
Watching this video makes me realize the obvious. Different between clay soil and well just pure clay. My yard is pure clay. Guess I quit trying to plant things and open a pottery business instead.
This is great work. Thank you very much. The 50 dollar hole is a great hook. thanks to you and your Dad.
You are welcome!
Nice presentation. My main tip to add would be soak your trees in a bucket of seaweed solution or some sort of humic solution before planting. Gives them a boost, less chance of air bubbles entering the roots and makes roots more supple so less chance of getting damaged. Not so important for a dormant tree in a wet bag vs a potted plant but still good practice. I like your hole digging method and fine for certain trees in not so high rainfall areas. Here in a wet year (La Niña here) trees can really suffer or die using that method and something like a avo and to a lesser extent citrus really likes to grow in a humic layer. My preferred method for planting a single tree is: soak tree in seaweed solution; dig a tiny hole not much wider than the root ball; put the bottom third/half in the hole; dump a wheel barrow of compost around the tree to mound up to the appropriate height; dump the seaweed solution from the soak bucket on the tree; maybe water in another bucket if it’s a dry year; cover with lawn clippings to suppress weeds; as it grows pile on branches/leaves/waste fruit anything to create fungus/humic layer. A lot easier than digging a big hole and works better here. Trees can require a bit more regular irrigation as there on a slight mound but it’s not that big a mound. Air in the soil can be the limiting factor a lot of the time rather than water when growing in clay. The way I look at it is the deep woody roots just punch down into the clay to stabilise the tree and keep the water pressure up during dry periods so not that much point worrying about creating to much of a nice environment for them. The fine feeder roots near the surface are constantly being replaced so i just want to make a nice humic mound with plenty of air and fungus for them to feed. On a side note for larger scale I would deep rip down the hill to drain the subsoil then contour.
Thanks for sharing. I love the tip about soaking in humic or seaweed solution. I typically soak my bareroot tree roots before planting, but never thought to add anything into the water- thanks for that!
I'll soon be planting a cherry tree and glad that I stumbled onto this video.
Happy planting!
The problem with putting wood under your tree is that the tree will sink down as the wood rottens. If you put back all the soil you dug out and form a pile where you put the tree, it should be fine.
Do you mean to put the sticks and things on top of the soil where you planted the tree?
@@lauranilsen8988 No, I meant the wood is still under the tree but you don't aim for flat soil when planting. Instead the tree should be on a pile of soil so it eventually becomes flat when the wood is rotting. Otherwise you get a hole where the tree is.
@@meinkleinerobstgarten oh ok! That makes more sense.
Nice video. I had seen that rumor about trees becoming root bound in round holes and it struck me as nonsense even just hearing it, without gardening experience. Good to have that confirmed.
Got tough clay myself you made some great points especially the scoring of the sides...never tried the huglecultyre thing but I will on my next one
Best of luck on that next planting!
I fertilize my citrus and deciduous fruit trees around Valentines Day, Memorial Day and Labor Day, easy way to remember when.
Great idea- thank you for sharing!
Peach Grower's Tip: Once your hole is dug, get a 4' length of 3"PVC pipe. Use a zip tie to cover one end of the pipe with nylon screen and stick that end into your hole at an angle. Add a handful of gravel, small rocks, broken pottery, etc. to keep the end of the pipe from filling up with soil. Plant the tree normally but be sure that a small section of the root ball is close to the bottom of the pipe. When it comes time to water/fertilize pour it down the pipe so it goes directly to the roots. This will prevent evaporation and runoff...it's also easier than trying to water in a freak'n tree. Once the tree is established stop using the pipe to water and see how it does. If the tree can survive on it's own you can remove the pipe and fill in the hole. Oh, use a 3" pipe cap to keep wasps and spiders out of the open end of the pipe.
Thanks for sharing! I watched a video where they did this method- I think it would work great in certain soil types- but have some concern about the risk of overwatering/root rot in clay soil. Have you tried this in heavy clay?
@@GrowfullywithJenna Sorry for the wall-o'-text! It works on un-amended Texas black gumbo, which bakes hard as a brick in Summer and sheds water like a duck. We dressed holes with composted sugar cane trash, recycled mushroom compost, and some of the native soil. You want enough tilth for the tree to grow but also encourage root growth outside of the hole, otherwise a hard wind can uproot it.
NOTE: The sugar cane and mushroom compost is NOT a recipe; it was what we could source cheap and locally..
@@kendo2377 Excellent- thank you so much!!
Thank you, Ohio Zone 6 friend! So glad I found your channel.
You are welcome! I'm glad you found my channel too!
I grew up in Northern British Colombia, 1bout 150 km from the coast and we had wonderful fruit trees. I now live in Alberta and planted fruit trees but they all died as the soil is very heavy clay soil and I did make the mistake of planting them in an area that had poor drainage.
There is a mound in my back yard that I think is decades old, probably created when someone was clearing land with a bull dozer. I am going to plant at least a couple of fruit trees on that mound next spring. However, I love fruit trees. It's free food with no weeding, tilling, planting every year, etc. I'd like to plant more in my yard. I am wondering if planting fruit trees in a raised bed in option. I am wondering if a 5' by 5' 4' deep bed is enough for one fruit tree. To pick the fruit, I'd use a ladder. The dirt in the bed could grow grass or flowers, or something else.
What are your thoughts on this? Anyone ?
I'm curious about this too, but have never tried it. Eventually your roots are going to outgrow that bed, but I wonder if by giving the tree time to get established, by the time it hits the soil outside of the raised bed it might be strong enough to power through? But you could also have the effect of where the roots hit the native soil and just stop... I'd love to hear from anyone who has tried this!
Try making drainage channels which are broad and shallow- like by mowing tight, tilling and grading up to planting ridges with a blade machine or broad hoe on smaller scale. The channel bottom can slope very little- create ridges, but not gullys! Mulch planting sites heavily and water for a season ahead of time with taproot cover crops like mustard and lupin before planting.
Watch the angel method of planting trees. Ellen White method of plantig trees. On you tube. Also loma linda blue zone. Good luck keep trying
Omg!! Thank you for this. I’m 6a illinois and I have clay. Apple trees and a peach tree is my goal. I needed this so bad
You're welcome!
If you put a short piece of flexible pipe in the hole so that the opening is right under the root ball, you will make watering much more efficient. Pouring those buckets of water on the soil is helpful when the soil settles, but after that, it takes a bunch of water to moisten the soil just one inch down. If you use a pipe, the water goes right where it is needed, and you can throw some on top, too, if it makes you feel good. Let the pipe stick out of the ground six or eight inches and it will be easy to pull out when the tree is established. Also, take it easy on the manure and compost. Too much nutrition encourages aphids, and you won't like that. Trees don't need to be fed.
I've seen that method, but have also been told by other folks growing in clay that it's not the best option for our soil type as it can encourage root rot.
I can't say I've ever had issues with aphids on the trees that I've fed. In general, supplementing trees with natural 'food' encourages strong, healthy growth which helps them naturally fend off pests and disease.
Life pro tip.
You can piss down the pipe to fertilize as well on those nights when you are hammered and stumbling around your yard. The worms like it too, but don't do it too much!!!
@@buckaroobonzai2909 LMAO. Nature is indeed amazing.
Great video! Fellow Ohio grower here 👋
Thanks! It's great to hear from a fellow Ohioan!
This is a great video! So many great tips and the phrase $50 hole for a $5 tree rings so true. This is the video I've been looking for to properly plant my fruit tree! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Glad it was helpful! Best of luck with your new fruit tree!
I want to know where to buy that $5 tree.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been planting in clay soil and really just could not get my trees to survive. Your video has changed the way I am planting and hopefully I will be apple to get my trees to thrive.
I hope your trees do well!
As a retired stone fruit grower, Okanagan Valley British Columbia.
We had soils, some pure sand, right to very high PH 8+, most of the trees in the heavy clay soils we're on a slight mound.
Now to the rest of the story, my winter getaway in in the desert of AZ zone 9 , very little frost, chill hours here are the issue.
On a 7.5K sq ft lot next to home site I have 25 trees, I dug the holes with a backhoe, added manure, and stirred I let it sit for a year, watering it, Then planted.
The trees thrived, BUT the dirt, as I call it, 0.5 % organic, 8+ pH, weren't inviting for the tree, and I've had wind breakage, uprooting issues.
Now I've got tons, literally gravel trucks worth of manure, chips, alfalfa pellets plant waste, spread under the trees, and am finding the tree roots are in the loam that is forming.
My tip is plant the trees higher than level, the organics will decompose, settle, causing a water pond, trp, and here we get monsoons, as other areas get heavy rains, causing rot rot issues.
We have terrible drainage issues here, a layer on caliche, solid calcium carbonate, and my soil takes about 12 hrs to drain the holes, now I put a gallon of pool acid into each hole after the 1st initially filling with water, it's something I learned from the farmers here that grow cotton, alfalfa, roses, veggies as field crops, it wakes the soil up.
I tried the rows between the trees 1st, saw a great improvement in cover crops.
So now all my present planting get that acid boost, let the hole drain, leach the acid away , and refill before planting, let drain away, then I plant into that hole with amended soil mix, watering as I fill, no air holes, less risk of settling.
Planting 2 sweet cherries soon, bareroot, finally a 200-300 chill hr cherry. Holes are getting prepped, trees come in Jan, fill soil is getting mixed, turned, prepped ahead, trees love it.
If you have winds, plant the graft union accordingly, the new wood into the wind, stronger tree. Happy growing.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience!
When planting trees that are already well established in a pot where they've lived their whole life in great potting soil, I've had great luck mixing the dirt I've dug up with a little bit of potting soil. Going heavier closer to the plant and then in layers around it going lighter and lighter. I do try to put a bit of compost in there to encourage the worms to come over and do their work. Bare root trees get the neglect version of planting, dig a hole and drop it. I love that you emphasized watering them in, it's so important!
Thanks for sharing!
@@GrowfullywithJenna , I thought of another idea for a fun interactive video! Dadisms! Funny things your dad used to say about gardening. Like the $50 hole for a $5 plant. I loved that, he sounds very wise, and reminded me of my dad. My dad used to say "if I ever get pushed out of an airplane I want 50 feet of garden hose wrapped around me, because I know it will get caught on something before I hit the ground" 🤣🤣🤣
@@addysbeeandgarden320 I love this idea so much! And your dad's comment is priceless! This would a great video idea for Father's Day- thank you!
Thanks! Very informative! One thing you've got to try though is gypsum. It is quite magical in its ability to break clay into actual soil!
I tried gypsum (check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/67XfjoIwIsc/v-deo.html) not a winner for my particular soil.
Jenna, After seeing your soil, I appreciate my topsoil, even with rock and gravel subsoil.
Thank you‼️❤️ I live in Paradise CA. 4 yrs ago The Whole town burned down. So I have the opportunity to start right. Our clay is the red clay. I had been told “sand” well after your experiment I can see I better find a farmer with cows🤣 I’m going to try the rye cover crop too. Thx 😻
Yes!! Rye is AMAZING for clay. Just one season and you'll see a difference.
I had planted a meyer lemon tree several years ago, and my dog, who was a hyper little puppy at the time - chewed the trunk of the newly planted tree. About 50% of it was chewed through before I saw her and stopped it. But - the tree survived, and became a very prolific, and large, lemon tree.
Very good (Everybody can understand) explanation (making sense)
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the advice. I have several fruit trees I am planting in a Canadian northern region of zone 2 -3 (very cold winters) under cover of a large greenhouse. Our soil is incredibly clay bound and I was going to put compost inside the hole. I will follow your advise, it makes a lot of sense.
Very good video . Thank you , Jenna❤😊
Thanks!
Excellent! Exactly the questions I had!
And you gave me more information than I had considered even asking! Cuz what do I know? (Not much here) I have a Mulberry, Orange, and Lemon to get in the ground! Bravo Video!
Glad it was helpful!
I keep a circle of wire around my tree's, to the 4 year have alot of deer.and also stake it we have crazy wind also, I also have all stone fruit at the top of hill wholes them back from blooming one week later, it's also fun to learn grafting. Last year I had some peach whips my neighbor has nice red plums, so I grafted the plum to the peach 2 of had 1ft. Growth needed this for pollination of a big plum I have. Some of my apple trees are 50 years old ,so I'm putting whole new tops ,have 5 different apples on one tree, so exciting well have my first apples on this tree this year.
Lots of fun projects you have going on!
dauym girr, you covered everything, ima use this to plant some trees
Happy planting!
Jenna: Thanks to you. I am going to get another big hug from my Gkids.
❤♥
Thanks Jenna the most thorough and sensible video on this subject so fat
The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The next best time is today. One other tip: Give space between the trunk of the tree and the mulch. Mulch holds water and you don't want the trunk above ground to sit in water. Awesome video. I wish this had been up a couple of weeks aog. I planted my Liberty Apple tree last Friday. :)
Yes, yes, yes! For anyone who's on the fence about planting a tree-- do it now! And thanks for mentioning the mulch- that was one point I missed. You definitely don't want it up around the trunk of the tree. Enjoy that 'Liberty' apple!
You’re information was inspiring and made great sense, thank you for your expertise and guidance 🙏🏽🌞
I work on clay soils 9 out of 10 times. I am familiar with Ohio (DeVilbiss HS, Toledo and Antioch College '72) but an old eroded soil in the West is a different animal, as is a river bottom gravelly soil full of hard volcanic rocks. And I do things differently than you, most times. But! it depends- on the tree: size, species, root stock and more. A dwarf tree planted in a compacted soil is a piteous thing indeed. It's good you're demonstrating IN a garden, which sets a fair number of constants. (like: water in a hose is a given!) I've been doing this long enough that I can climb in many of the trees I've planted. In some ultisols (I like to define "ultisol" as "the ultimate worst soil") I often spend a year cover-cropping, mulching and watering the spot, before planting. Sometimes that means putting a ring dam around the spot to hold the water, if the spot is out of the range of a hose. My trees will often get nurse plants, often nitrogen fixers, and the nurse plants are often tortured for mulch, the poor devils. I have been criticized for using Scots Broom, an invasive legume, but if it is present, it works, the roots penetrate hard pan and the cut branches are excellent mulch. Yes, all the information you give is spot-on, in most garden conditions. You ever hear of planting deep so that the graft roots, then every 4th year cutting the tree down? Saves dramatically on pruning time and yields much more, firewood. That was done by a crazy Brit expat doing an orchard in France, so pruning labor was tremendous. I often do a hole with a cone of undisturbed soil in the center, with a crenellated outer edge, the number of bays depending on the number of major roots, Thus the tree sits on undisturbed soil, and each major root has it's own alley to head out in. I don't put raw dry organic material deep in the hole, but I do mix some finished (low Nitrogen) compost into the fill, mixing really well. And I don't use a cheap stamped round point shovel to do anything but move loosened soil. I do my loosening with a pick mattock or maybe a Pulaski. But then, my current home ground was once a used car lot. (Talk about compaction!) I volunteer with Friends of Trees so we're planting many large donated trees, usually along streets and sidewalks. You may be unwinding circling roots that are 4 or 5 feet long into a custom-dug root run. That means an irregular, maybe star-shaped hole, or cutting a fat root back!
Thanks for sharing your experience in planting trees in more challenging conditions! I love that you mention spending years cover cropping, mulching etc. prior to planting. Many folks don't want to spend that much time- but it really does give you much better results. And I have never heard of planting the graft deep and cutting every 4 years-- very interesting!
I'm new here and new to planting! You will be a mentor as soon as I get deeper in😂❤
Hello & Welcome!
this was the best planting video I have found. thank you!
I'm glad to hear it- you're welcome!
Well done! No nonsense, straight to the point and very informative. Thank you. . .
Thanks!
Thank you for the instructional video Ma’am.
Now time to plant pear trees in memories of our son that passed away in a motorcycle accident at 21 years old so we are planting 21 pear trees.
Y’all have a blessed day hold your family tight.
Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas.
-Sig
I'm so, so sorry for the loss of your son.
What a beautiful memorial. ❤
What you described there, w why plant roots REALLY might circle, instead of reaching out, it is called by some, a "bathtub effect". It can also cause a plant to drown, as in a bathtub.
Very true- and they'll do the same in a circular, square or triangular hole.
This is the best video on a subject i ever saw! Amazing.
Thanks!
Awesome video!!! Good valuable info, no filler words.
I use gypsum, sand, perlite, and rough up the sides by gouging with a pick axe and my apple trees do really good in clay so long as I amend the clay soil.
Your channel has grown a lot! Great tips. I've learned that planting native flowers around my establishing trees frees up the clay, pulls water down, builds topsoil, and also keeps the deer off the trees! So now I always try for wildflowers on the north side and fruit/nut/veggies on the south.
Interesting about the deer! Have you noticed that any particular kind of native flower works the best for deterring the deer?
@@GrowfullywithJenna smelly flowers, they don't want to rub in smelly stuff. Bee balm, blazing star, coreopsis, yarrow (especially yarrow), and black eyed Susan all keep seed heads and are tall enough. . I use last years stalks to stake around new fruit and veggie growth this spring and they kept off everything so far!
@@johnrobholmes Oh good! I've got plenty of yarrow and bee balm growing on the property. Thank you!!
@@GrowfullywithJenna of course deer will sometimes go hog wild on the spring shoots, I just found a pretty big section of black eyed Susan munched down. But they were literally 6 feet from 2 apple trees and didn't strip the leaves, which was a problem the 2 previous years before I put natives into the same bed. The more variety for deer, the better it seems.
ممنون از ویدئوی خوب شما. سبز و پایدار باشید 🌲
This was very informative. Good Video. And I learned about not burying the Graphed section.
Glad it was helpful!
Jenna is a great teacher and coach, thank you !
Thanks so much, Edward!
Thank you for sharing! We too are in Central Ohio with heavy clay. We will try this approach.
Happy to share!