I just pulled the trigger and ordered this model. Your video is so complete, easy to listen to, includes great tips and is clear as a bell. Thanks for the incredible effort! -Dan
I just went to space camp and got this model at the gift shop. I have put together many advanced and a few expert but this is my first master level. I was very skittish about getting this model but now I am not really worried about assembly, I am worried about paint. I will use the techniques used in this video and paint like the Saturn 1b they have at the space and rocket center. Thank you so much for making this
I built the 1970s version of this....4 engine cluster....a bit bigger. Launched it in August of 1975 with 4 B 14-5 engines....28 total pounds of thrust at liftoff...a blast to be sure...
Great build! I will definitely use this video as reference when I build mine. One tip I can offer is to grind the engine hook and sand the inside of the engine block. This allows use of a 24/60 motor case.
I built the original release of this kit back in the late 1960's when I was about 13. The first release of the Saturn V model didn't even come out for several more years. This first release Saturn I-B was a lot harder to build well, mainly because the fins had to be built from card stock (included in the kit) and balsa, the scalloped lower tube shroud had to be cut and trimmed to fit from card stock, the tapered portion of the S-IVB was also cut and rolled with an end to end glue seam (not overlapped). The original kit used a 4 engine cluster of B engines. It was a huge challenge to build and mine came out okay, but not nearly as nice as yours. I painted the whole thing with a brush and Testors enamel model paint after spraying the entire model white first. Instead of the raised details like the clamshell panels of the S-IVB, you drew them in with #3 pencil. I have this new release, as well as the Saturn V, both Little Joe kits, and the Mercury-Redstone kit. If I live long enough, I'll get them all built after I finish a 25% size Piper L-4 radio control model, being built from plans. I'm not flying any of them, hopefully the rockets will be donated to our local science museum and the plane will go to our local aviation museum. Thanks for all the building and painting tips, I'll use an air brush on these for sure.
Nicely done. The note in the instructions to builders who going fly this model to leave the tower removable for flight, seems to me to be a good idea. Just my .02 Thanks for the great video.
This is a great video I have just built my first rocket in 30 years, I do have decent skills but I learned a couple valuable tricks that I had forgotten from this video. So thank you very much, can't wait to see another video
I will eventually! However the trick will be to convince my wife that I need another. By the way, I launched my Saturn 1B last week with a C11-3. I was worried about stability, but it was straight and stable all the way up! What a honey of a kit.
To be sure the cable raceways lined up I did this. I applied the lower wrap edge on the reference line as instructed. I then dry fit the raceway to its recess, lined it straight up the body tube, secured it with tape, and scribed lines on either side of it up where the upper wrap would go. Then removed it. When I applied the upper wrap I started it with the raceway recess at the marks, then wrapped it to the left and right. When you trim the ends of the upper wrap, you can’t be sure that the raceway will line up if you start the cut end of the wrap on the reference line, depending on how much you trimmed off. It won’t be off by much, but might as well get it dead accurate!
@@modelrockets3215Waiting for your maiden flight Keith with that 4 engine cluster. 👍👍. (I have 3 Sat 1Bs and gotta decide build or sell. Pint looks intimidating with out air brush.
Awesome build documentation. I will use this while building my Saturn 1b in the near future. Im thinking about going for the black and white Tanks as I like the look more that the all white tanks. Will have to research the decals tho. Do you have a hint where to look for this information?
Thank you for the kind words! If you are seeking documentation for a Saturn 1B with the black and white tanks, I suggest a google search for Peter Alway's great drawings on this subject.
@@rocketaero as far as I had researched its SA-205 instead of SA-206. Every other thing is almost the same? Do you have a link to Peters drawings for me?
Do you know if this can be converted to the older style 4 engine cluster. I’m getting back in the hobby after 40 +years and still love them cluster engines.
is there a way to send you a picture? The longer cable race way part is too long by 10mm. Almost as if the upper wrap should not have been placed 10mm from the edge of the tube but right at the edge?
You missed it. The overall white is Tamiya TS-26 Pure White spray lacquer (27:48), the silver is TS-17 Gloss Aluminum spray lacquer (33:14, both rattle cans), and the black is Tamiya XF-69 acrylic (34:46) applied with an airbrush.
Fantastic build! I will definitely be referring to your excellent tutorial when I put my model together. I take it there were no adverse effects on the vacuum formed parts from the Tamiya lacquer?
I experienced no issues using the Tamiya lacquers on the wraps. As a matter of fact, I've used the Tamiya lacquers on thin styrene for years with no problems. Thanks for the kind words, and good luck on your build!
Love your video. I'm building the same model. I followed your video but when I applied the ts13 over the xf-69 it all cracked. Any idea what I did wrong? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the kind words about the video! Sorry to hear about your difficulties. The crackling is usually the result of applying the clear lacquer in too heavy of a coat. Best results will be achieved by applying lacquer (in any color) in multiple very light coats, waiting 7-10 minutes between each coat.
@@rocketaero thanks for the tip! Main fuselage came out perfect! Idk how to post pics, otherwise I would so I can show you the nightmare you saved me from. Thanks again!🤟🍻
On the instructions it says to not use lacquer based paints as they can melt the plastic parts; but here you are recommending (and I just purchased) the Tamiya spray lacquers??
MicroSol will not damage the vacform plastic, nor will it damage dry lacquer. If you use it on a surface that you have painted with acrylic paint, though, you should let it cure for several days before using any type of decal setting agent.
Regular 3M blue painters tape won’t work to burnish down tightly in to the corrugations. Don’t try it. I had less than stellar results painting the 1/100 Saturn V. I had a rare day with time to paint but no Tamiya tape and forged ahead. Mistake. Get the good tape. Masking and painting the Estes Saturn V 1/100 is a huge PIA. The most demanding part of the build. Have all the right tape and materials and an ample supply of time and patience.
Gloss would not be appropriate for this prototype. A matte finish would be correct, but will also attract fingerprints and other filth, especially if you plan to fly your model. A compromise would be a satin or semi-gloss overcoat, which will tie things together like a matte finish would, but still have some resistance to grime. Tamiya TS-79 Semi Gloss Clear spray lacquer should work well.
Correct, I did not install the anchor. I find that it is far simpler to loop the recovery harness line around the Command Module instead, attaching the snap swivel back onto the line. Very easy, and no non-scale loop protruding from the model.
You mention the fin decals are easy to screw up--you can say that again! You have placed them on the wrong fins according to the instructions, They go on the alternate fins (between what you are calling the quads). But it gets worse: the instructions show using the quad white stripe decal twice and the dual white stripe decal twice!! So at this point maybe I will just go with what you did!
Peter Alway's drawings in his magisterial work "Rockets of the World" were used to guide the installation of the fin markings, backed up by photo and video references. The placement in this tutorial is accurate.
I just pulled the trigger and ordered this model. Your video is so complete, easy to listen to, includes great tips and is clear as a bell. Thanks for the incredible effort! -Dan
I just went to space camp and got this model at the gift shop. I have put together many advanced and a few expert but this is my first master level. I was very skittish about getting this model but now I am not really worried about assembly, I am worried about paint. I will use the techniques used in this video and paint like the Saturn 1b they have at the space and rocket center. Thank you so much for making this
I built the 1970s version of this....4 engine cluster....a bit bigger. Launched it in August of 1975 with 4 B 14-5 engines....28 total pounds of thrust at liftoff...a blast to be sure...
I had the same one in 1970. I think the kit was $9.95 then. The escape tower was all wooden dowels and the fins were paper/balsa build-ups.
Count me in also, I had the same one 4 C6-5s. Flew it 3 times, was great to watch.
Great build! I will definitely use this video as reference when I build mine. One tip I can offer is to grind the engine hook and sand the inside of the engine block. This allows use of a 24/60 motor case.
I built the original release of this kit back in the late 1960's when I was about 13. The first release of the Saturn V model didn't even come out for several more years. This first release Saturn I-B was a lot harder to build well, mainly because the fins had to be built from card stock (included in the kit) and balsa, the scalloped lower tube shroud had to be cut and trimmed to fit from card stock, the tapered portion of the S-IVB was also cut and rolled with an end to end glue seam (not overlapped). The original kit used a 4 engine cluster of B engines. It was a huge challenge to build and mine came out okay, but not nearly as nice as yours. I painted the whole thing with a brush and Testors enamel model paint after spraying the entire model white first. Instead of the raised details like the clamshell panels of the S-IVB, you drew them in with #3 pencil.
I have this new release, as well as the Saturn V, both Little Joe kits, and the Mercury-Redstone kit. If I live long enough, I'll get them all built after I finish a 25% size Piper L-4 radio control model, being built from plans. I'm not flying any of them, hopefully the rockets will be donated to our local science museum and the plane will go to our local aviation museum.
Thanks for all the building and painting tips, I'll use an air brush on these for sure.
Just finishing mine up. As soon as I get the money, I'm going to build the Apogee saturn v.
Nicely done.
The note in the instructions to builders who going fly this model to leave the tower removable for flight, seems to me to be a good idea. Just my .02
Thanks for the great video.
incrediable amount of detail and patients applied to this build.👌🏻
This is a great video I have just built my first rocket in 30 years, I do have decent skills but I learned a couple valuable tricks that I had forgotten from this video. So thank you very much, can't wait to see another video
Very nice!
Fantastic build!
Nice work.
A very well explained build video. I started one , just got the centering ring section with the motor mount in this last Friday.
That's one great model build tutorial!! Thanks for this. I will be referring to it when I start my Saturn 1B build.
Hi Mr. Duffy. This is such a great kit. Your video was chock full of good build tips. I wish I had seen this before building mine.
Thanks for the kind words! You can always build another!
I will eventually! However the trick will be to convince my wife that I need another. By the way, I launched my Saturn 1B last week with a C11-3. I was worried about stability, but it was straight and stable all the way up! What a honey of a kit.
To be sure the cable raceways lined up I did this. I applied the lower wrap edge on the reference line as instructed. I then dry fit the raceway to its recess, lined it straight up the body tube, secured it with tape, and scribed lines on either side of it up where the upper wrap would go. Then removed it. When I applied the upper wrap I started it with the raceway recess at the marks, then wrapped it to the left and right. When you trim the ends of the upper wrap, you can’t be sure that the raceway will line up if you start the cut end of the wrap on the reference line, depending on how much you trimmed off. It won’t be off by much, but might as well get it dead accurate!
Beautiful 🇳🇿👍
I applied several of these techniques to both my Apollo 11 and Skylab Saturn V builds>
Had one growing up and the Saturn V. I have the Estes V 2 and Little Joe and a few others. Thank you.
Damn! One challenging kit.
I keep referring to this same video as i work on my Saturn 1B.
Not sure I could bring myself to fly it after all that work!! How well do these fully scale rockets tend to survive flight?
They fly well. On my page I believe in flying them all at least once. No shelf queens. If it has a mishap repair it and fly it again🚀
@@modelrockets3215Waiting for your maiden flight Keith with that 4 engine cluster. 👍👍. (I have 3 Sat 1Bs and gotta decide build or sell. Pint looks intimidating with out air brush.
Awesome build documentation. I will use this while building my Saturn 1b in the near future. Im thinking about going for the black and white Tanks as I like the look more that the all white tanks. Will have to research the decals tho. Do you have a hint where to look for this information?
Thank you for the kind words! If you are seeking documentation for a Saturn 1B with the black and white tanks, I suggest a google search for Peter Alway's great drawings on this subject.
@@rocketaero as far as I had researched its SA-205 instead of SA-206. Every other thing is almost the same? Do you have a link to Peters drawings for me?
Beautiful job. Not sure i would launch it now. 😄
Do you know if this can be converted to the older style 4 engine cluster. I’m getting back in the hobby after 40 +years and still love them cluster engines.
Do you know or anyone one else , will the top section fit the SkyLab body tube??
is there a way to send you a picture? The longer cable race way part is too long by 10mm. Almost as if the upper wrap should not have been placed 10mm from the edge of the tube but right at the edge?
Did I miss or did he not ID type , brand of paint used. ??
You missed it. The overall white is Tamiya TS-26 Pure White spray lacquer (27:48), the silver is TS-17 Gloss Aluminum spray lacquer (33:14, both rattle cans), and the black is Tamiya XF-69 acrylic (34:46) applied with an airbrush.
Did I miss the engines??
The engine mount is installed at 32:57.
Fantastic build! I will definitely be referring to your excellent tutorial when I put my model together. I take it there were no adverse effects on the vacuum formed parts from the Tamiya lacquer?
I experienced no issues using the Tamiya lacquers on the wraps. As a matter of fact, I've used the Tamiya lacquers on thin styrene for years with no problems. Thanks for the kind words, and good luck on your build!
Nice work but will this work if I use this to build it but want to launch it later
Absolutely! The model shown in the video is ready to fly, once some parachutes are added.
@@rocketaero thank you
Love your video. I'm building the same model. I followed your video but when I applied the ts13 over the xf-69 it all cracked. Any idea what I did wrong? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the kind words about the video! Sorry to hear about your difficulties. The crackling is usually the result of applying the clear lacquer in too heavy of a coat. Best results will be achieved by applying lacquer (in any color) in multiple very light coats, waiting 7-10 minutes between each coat.
@@rocketaero thanks for the response. I thought I was pretty far from the model, ill try it a little bit farther away next time.
@@rocketaero thanks for the tip! Main fuselage came out perfect! Idk how to post pics, otherwise I would so I can show you the nightmare you saved me from. Thanks again!🤟🍻
On the instructions it says to not use lacquer based paints as they can melt the plastic parts; but here you are recommending (and I just purchased) the Tamiya spray lacquers??
Yes, I am recommending the Tamiya lacquers, used over the Tamiya primers. I've used this approach for years with no drama.
Great!! thanks-your video is fantastic@@rocketaero
Do you use the micro sol on the decals that go on the wrap? Or will it damaged the vacu-form plastic?
MicroSol will not damage the vacform plastic, nor will it damage dry lacquer. If you use it on a surface that you have painted with acrylic paint, though, you should let it cure for several days before using any type of decal setting agent.
Regular 3M blue painters tape won’t work to burnish down tightly in to the corrugations. Don’t try it. I had less than stellar results painting the 1/100 Saturn V. I had a rare day with time to paint but no Tamiya tape and forged ahead. Mistake. Get the good tape. Masking and painting the Estes Saturn V 1/100 is a huge PIA. The most demanding part of the build. Have all the right tape and materials and an ample supply of time and patience.
Tried to find your unboxing on this kit but couldn't. Did you delete it ? Great build video !
Thanks for the kind words on the build video! The unboxing video may be found at: ua-cam.com/video/_V9oStEwxQg/v-deo.html
@@rocketaero Thanks man ! Always loved the Saturn 1b.
Would you recommend matte or gloss clear coat?
Gloss would not be appropriate for this prototype. A matte finish would be correct, but will also attract fingerprints and other filth, especially if you plan to fly your model. A compromise would be a satin or semi-gloss overcoat, which will tie things together like a matte finish would, but still have some resistance to grime. Tamiya TS-79 Semi Gloss Clear spray lacquer should work well.
you did not install the wire anchor in the service module; is that because there is no intent to fly the model?
Correct, I did not install the anchor. I find that it is far simpler to loop the recovery harness line around the Command Module instead, attaching the snap swivel back onto the line. Very easy, and no non-scale loop protruding from the model.
@@rocketaero ok thanks- is there a video that covers the launch recovery system?
No, but I'm about to start a new Saturn V project that will offer an opportunity to show the technique. Look for it in the next couple of months.
@@rocketaero thats great- I have the Saturn five Skylab kit. Will look forward to another fantastic video from you!
What exact Saturn five kit are you building? The Skylab is only one currently available, but there are Apollo versions on line.
You mention the fin decals are easy to screw up--you can say that again! You have placed them on the wrong fins according to the instructions, They go on the alternate fins (between what you are calling the quads). But it gets worse: the instructions show using the quad white stripe decal twice and the dual white stripe decal twice!! So at this point maybe I will just go with what you did!
Peter Alway's drawings in his magisterial work "Rockets of the World" were used to guide the installation of the fin markings, backed up by photo and video references. The placement in this tutorial is accurate.
@@rocketaero Very good - I went with your video- the Estes instructions are poor in this area
Is there a launch vid or is this just a display model?
This model is certainly capable of flight, but I have not yet flown it. When/if I do I'll be sure to get video.