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I keep 2 different fuel mixes because I have plenty new stuff that wants 40:1 and an old saw that wants 16:1. Well it took some time but my modern saw finally fouled a plug and I had to change the plug from running that 16:1 because I had it at home mixed and left my can of 40:1 elsewhere so I used what’s here. But I’ve had the saw for 3-5 years now and never shied away from running the richer mix in it, or my weed eaters, and I had a weed waxier last with the crappy clear lines for years storing with fuel in it and I suspect that using the non alcohol gas with the heavier oil mix extends the life of everything that’s not designed for alcohol.
Ever since the first time I had an issue with bad gas. I started going to the airport and buying a gallon of 100 low lead aviation fuel. I am doing this now for about 25 years. Aviation fuel has the additive where I can sit for unbelievable amount of time and not degrade. Granted, it’s more money than your average gas but well worth it. To use your words to save time and money and frustration.
I always tell my customers to use ethanol-free gas in their mix. Still, I think they have done something to our gas itself, because it just doesn't smell the same as it used to back in the 90s.
That’s great if you can get ethanol-free at a pump, but the only supply around here is the canned VP racing 94, which is $28/gallon. At that price, it’s almost cheaper to just rebuild the carb every year.
@michaelrockwell9691 and @Chickanic I'm not a mechanic of ANY kind... just a DIYer (too broke to hire anyone who knows anything...). Even so, I've got to tell you that I've noticed the same thing! Over the years, the smell and actual FEEL of the gasoline has changed! It seems like even the Ethanol-Free stuff leaves a weird film on things. Of course, way back, there was the whole "Leaded" vs "Unleaded" thing going on (I'm 67). But, this is different. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the fact that A LOT of our petroleum products are now refined outside of the US, and/or the crude oil we've been using up lately (again, from outside the US) is of a poorer quality. (much higher sulfur???) Just something I've been pondering.... Honestly don't know the answer, but, I've noticed the same differences in smell.
I spent several years as a rubber chemist back in the 80’s. Diaphragms and other oil-resistant parts are typically made of Buna N aka Nitrile rubber which is very oil resistant, as a matter of fact, it is too oil resistant, so SBR rubber, which is a sponge where oil is concerned is added to the formulation in order to swell and make up for the ingredients in Buna N which will leach out over time when subjected to oil. A typical specification for Buna N will have a couple of volume change values in different fluids : (gas, motor oil, Jet A, etc. ) at different aging temperatures for 22 hours or longer. A Buna N formula consists of Buna N polymer, reinforcing fillers (typically different types of carbon blacks), process oils which make the rubber more flowable so parts can be made. There are also a myriad of other chemicals: antioxidants, anti-ozonants, plus a cross-linking package that can include cross-linkers, accelerators, retarders , process aids, mold releases, and sometimes a kitchen sink depending on how desperate the chemist is. Putting a pure Nitrile Rubber part in a solvent will leach these ingredients out of the Nitrile, causing the part to shrink and fail in the application. That is a why a “swellable” rubber (SBR) is added. It allows oil or fuel to absorb into the rubber part and make it bigger. It is a balancing act. Someone mentioned using brake clean to rejuvenate brittle parts. You can see why this would work since it is swelling the Buna N, but at the same time it is leaching other ingredients out, changing the physical properties of the part. FWIW
@@AL-sb9ch I make up 2 gallons of gas/oil mix at a time and add the recommended amount of Seafoam. I have no idea what the formula for Seafoam is. Given the analytical instruments available today it wouldn't be difficult to determine the formula, but back in the 70's it would have taken a great deal of effort plus the expense of disposable supplies, so none of my crowd did it. I use Seafoam because it was invented in the 1930's before MBA's were invented to look over chemists' shoulders and force them to use the cheapest ingredients available while charging the highest price for their product. Hopefully the new owner will not screw with the formula to save a tenth of a cent per gallon and destroy their long-time good reputation. Think Craftsman. When in doubt, experiment. Save all of your old brittle parts and cut them into parts and soak in different magic juices. Cutting the parts and testing separately means the test pieces all have the same formulation. You may find that different parts respond differently to different solvents. "In God we trust. All others bring data". Mantra of research.
There is only one reason I hit the like button,it’s because they didn’t put a love 💕 button.You and your videos are awesome ❤❤❤ much love and appreciation.Keep up the amazing work.
I buy ethanol free premium for my small engines. Only just now ran out of the fuel that I bought two springs ago (I didn't intend for it to last two summers, but misjudged it and obviously bought too much). While I did add fuel stabilizer to it last Fall, I think the main reason for the longevity was the lack of ethanol.
I was a small engine mechanic in the 70s-80s. I never kept up with the new machines so im no longer working on them. I would always tell people draining your machine is like leaving a coffee cup on your table when your done. The ring is just like gas in ur carb. gonna leave residue. Im a fan of leaving fuel in because it keeps seals moist. Works for me. Thanks for your input, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. PS........I'm a big fan of Opti for 2 cycles.
Back when gas here dropped down to $1.37/gallon, four years ago, I filled two 5 gallon gas cans for a rainy day. Then, I started watching these UA-cam videos all saying that modern day gas is no good after 60 days! I called my local Auto Zone and Tom said to bring it down and he would test its usability. He said there was nothing wrong with it. I was still reluctant to put in my car, so I gave it to him and watched him pour it all into his truck. Gas here today is over $4/gal so I learned a valuable lesson.
Great stuff, episode by episode. Guy in his 70's, a lifetime of mechanical experience in timberland, farming, drag and road racing, mo-cycles, and yeah, small engines. Yet I get so much out of your tutorials, even if new slants on older information, all helpful, and the added percs of a good-lookin' woman with a sense of humor, just the right mix of a little sarcasm. 🤙👍
I cant imagine "putting your equipment" away for the season. Out here in the south eastern desert of AZ as soon as a dog pee's anywhere, we will get tumble weeds & all manner of "winter weeds", so the weedeater is used even in the dead of winter 'round here! Living my best La Vida Loca here in southeastern Arizona
I use Aspen, and when storing the machines, I empty their tanks, start them, and let them idle till they stop. I very rarely have problems - last month I used a saw I hadn't used since 2012, and it started and ran as if I had used it last week.
Hi Bre. Long time auto tech here, now retired. Puttering with two strokes for 50 years has taught me a lot but always willing to pick up a few new tricks. You put on a good and informative show. Often times the old engines that the fuel system is full of oil it isn’t necessarily that oil was placed intentionally. Over the years the gasoline evaporates and leaves the oil residue. Keep in mind that the fuel/oil mix was very heavy often at 16.1 Recently started an old Mccullogh Super Pro 81 that had that situation. A quick cleanup of the fuel system and adding fresh fuel it started up after 3 or 4 pulls. And you are correct, the oil doesn’t seem to affect the carb gaskets.
I was thinking the same thing about the 16.1 deal.And most people years ago used regular motor oil in the gas instead of real 2 cycle oil.And it must have worked great because i have worked on old 1970s saws that fuel lines and diaphrams were fine.
I have found Sta-Bil 360 Marine to be highly effective! From our 2 & 4 cycle outboards, many chainsaws, lawn mower, weed trimmers, and generators, I've never had a problem. Over winter storage no problem. I make sure fuel tanks are full before storage.
1st off I really appreciate your videos. My winterization ritual is to start and run everything (at least) once a month. With multiple chainsaws trimmers augers generators pumps outboards motorcycles & more Just keeping them going is the simplest way to be sure they’re all ready to go. Ethanol Free of course, Washington State.
This used to be very common, but they used ATF fluid some people call it after run oil‘s, but it’s basically ATF fluid and you run some of it through your carb or over anything you don’t want to rust and it also puts a little down in your cylinders to give it a nice coating of oil And you can store things long-term because even after years if the ATF fluid starts to come up a little as soon as gas hits it, it gets all fluid it again and it’ll smoke a little bit until it burns the oil off but a lot of mechanics restoring old engines will do the same. They’ll just pump a little in the cylinders with a B diesel or two stroke or four stroke to give it some lube and let it soak into the rings, but if you do it in advance, you’re pushing the fuel out and giving it a nice coat of ATF. And advantage of that over oil is you don’t have to worry about filling it up because even if it gets really old and comes up as soon as gasoline hits it, it melts again. Other people I’ve also used castor oil, honestly, I don’t know how it works overtime but I always used after run or ATF.
We actually do the same thing, we “flush” the system by priming pure seafoam motor treatment through the fuel system. If you’re going to get something sit for a long time, it may also be advisable to remove the spark plug and spray some seafoam motor treatment into the combustion chamber, and then pull the starter to circulate it. Then pour the excess seafoam back out of the gas tank into a bottle to be used later.
For those who do not have ethanol free gas in their area, it's easy to make your own. There are UA-cam videos but basically you just add water to the container of gas, which absorbs the ethanol and settles to the bottom of the container. Since water and gasoline do not mix, you just drain off the water/ethanol mix and you're left with pure gas.
Oops! Forgot to mention to start with ethanol premium. When you remove the ethanol, octane drops to that of regular gas. This is because ethanol premium is actually regular with ethanol added, and ethanol regular is really cheap gas with ethanol added to raise the octane.
I think I’ll try this because I agree that our gasoline is lower quality now because we are getting low quality crude from Venezuela instead of the highest quality from the USA!
Use akylate fuel such as aspen or STIHL Motomix. They will not harm plastics or rubbers when sitting for long periods of time. Run your tank out of normal or rec fuel mix and then fill up with them and start the engine for a bit so it fills all the lines. Then shut it down for winter.
I have to rebuild the fuel system on my old Poulan chain saw and Bolen's line trimmer. Neither will start and the trimmer will yank the skin off your fingers with the backlash. It's gonna be fun. The chainsaw has been sitting for 15 years.
My best advice for anyone using MIAB is not to rush the process. My last snowblower I picked up for free sat for 2 years with gas in it. Luckily the float bowl had a drain screw. It took about 30 days before the MIAB worked thru to the carburetor. the best part was it actually cleaned out the fuel system. I didn't remove the carb or even the float bowl. I was a small engine tech for 30 plus years and never ran my stuff dry. I have my own potion mix I use for storage, a little mechanic in a bottle, a dash of stabil, dash of Ethanol Shield and dash of Sea Foam. And Bri I enjoywatching your videos and always learn something I didn't know
Good old days when u didn’t even consider running things dry. Things sure have changed, 2 strokes is totally different, but 4 cycle must be run dry nowadays. Like I said times sure have changed
I ad 100% regular gasoline to my fuel then I don't have to worry about it. I'm also a small engine mechanic and my equipment starts on the first pull every time every season without running it dry or adding anything to it. Acid gas (ethanol blended hybrid fuel) actually cost you 20% more to run because it's 30% less efficient people think they're saving 10% by buying ethanol blended fuels it's actually costs 20% more because it's 30% less efficient and along with all the other crap that happens because of it.
I buy non ethanol premium, spike it with Marine Stabil and never have an issue. I keep the mix fresh (up to 1 yr) and store it in the coolest location in my shop. Red Armor is my choice for oil but I also use Stihl Ultra.
Project Farm did a test with fuel stabilizers and showed they all did nothing against the issues with ethanol.....Phase separation is the big big problem with ethanol then it is all down hill fast. As long as the fuel is sealed and in a stabile temp it likely will be fine for a while but most systems are vented leading to collection of moisture feeding on itself......slippery slope They want you on e - everything
I'm not a commercial landscaper just a modest homeowner. All my OPE is now battery-powered. Storage issues no longer exist. However, my generator is gas powered and have had regular gas with Sta-Bil in it for over 2 years. I start it about every 6 months. Zero issues. 🤷♂️
Great idea and a great video Bre. I've never done much w/2-strokes but for the past 50 years or so, I run a small amount of auto- trans fluid through my carb on my 4-stroke engines at the end of the season. Squirt some in the fuel line, yank the pull cord several times and it coats the inside of the carb. Always starts at the beginning of the next season. Keep the videos coming Bre and keep us posted on your home shop.
I've been putting a bottle of red armor in the gas tank of old tractors for storage. I notice the float never sticks and I don't have starting issues. Central Kentucky here, your mileage may vary.
I used to use True Fuel until I had a couple of small engine mechanics tell me the same thing. I’ve been using Red Armor like they said and no issues. I like the tip about using the oil for storage like you mentioned I’m going to start doing that.
I always mix with premium fuel ethanol free and use Stihl oil .. still no problem.. if the saw sits for a few years with the fuel in it , I don’t try and start it. I dump out the fuel and put fresh . As for the diaphragm , I haven’t tried it..but apparently soaking it in Dot 3 brake fluid will do the trick..in a pinch if you can get one in time and want to say cut up a bunch of wood.
This is the same as "Fogging" my outboard on my boat. Before it gets put away for the winter I run it and spray the fogging fluid into the intake until it smokes a lot and the engine dies. Next season you add new fuel and fire her up. Smokes like hell for a few minute's but then all id good. By the way... Love all your content.
Right on Bre a trick for all to remember, they just gotta do it but too many will not. At EP we sell our customers (when they want) a litre can of Kinetix alkylate fuel either the 4 or 2 cycle for storage of their equipment. Once they run it out of fuel they just add enough of this fuel to the tank to get the carb filled with this canned fuel and fire it up for a few minutes then shuter down. We guarantee fire up even if stored for two years. Those that did not want it normally bring their equipment in for a carb cleaning the following year and in 10 years not a single warranty claim for no start conditions.
As a mechanic I've seen old cars and I mean relics, brought in on trailers to rejuvenate brakes etc before a full restore and many motors filled right to the top of the rocker covers with oil, always a joy to see these cars come right back in soon after running perfectly for a first free brake check and finding out nothing was needed done to the engines. It was always the car "bought from the old guy" and well looked after. I keep old oil for soaking parts that will sit, in a rag, stops that awful rusty spot you do NOT wanna see on your new (old) valves, camshaft or lifters etc. saying that I HAVE seen some rubber parts turn to MUSH lol
As a Grand Master Marine Tech for Mercury Marine we run the 2 stroke fuel tanks down or pump them down and add fuel conditioner and add Mercury fogging oil to the remaining gas @ about 1%. Run the engine; spray fogging oil through the carbs & shut it down. Done.
Happy to see you settling down in the new set. I am building my first indoor sets, because I love to run them and fixing them is only a means to that end. Not something I ever considered filming like you and Taryl and Mustie and Mick. Love your show and you continue to inspire. Thank you.
Yup...... In SoCal my grandparents did that back in the 1950's and 60's...... When we went to blended fuels I the 1970's we used atf to clean the engines in our cars and it lubes and cleans the carbs and valves. Still do that today!
I started winterizing 4 stroke outboards about 10 years ago by running a mix of gas and stabilizer into the motor for a bit, and then, I put a heavy mix of 2 stroke oil into the fuel, but, I let it run dry and coat the carb and float well, then pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil into the cylinders. Ever since then, the corrosion problems I had in the carb never happened again, and like you said, I just have to run some gas into a bit to get past the oil and smoke.
Hi Bre. Something I learned sometime ago is that for brittle diaphrams is to soak them in brake fluid overnight and they come out as soft as a babies b#m. Give it a try! Also with the other one put it in boiling water and it will soften and straighten. Cheers and have a good day.
Bre should do a video of experimenting with brake fluid like you said, and any other soaking fluids that people recommend to see which one works best. This brake fluid idea might be worth a try.
I use only ethanol-free gas for my small engine equipment. I usually store 40-50 gallons of ethanol-free gas for 10-12 months. I then will empty my storage containers into my vehicles and refill the containers for storage. I don't have issues with leaving gas in my equipment. Adding ethanol to our fuel was a terrible idea! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Здравствуйте! Смотрю вас очень давно ! Я из России , Курская область . Отличные видео ! Тоже были проблемы с карбюратором и тоже отдавал деньги за полную замену карбюратора . По инструкции выливал топливо , чтобы хранить зимой хранить.. Теперь оставляю топливо на зиму в технике. Смешиваю масло и бензин 1:25 или 1:20. Использую масло Zic 2t scooter или Husqvarna 2t HP. Весной сливая это топливо . Работает инструмент весной идеально )
ATF can work... Pull the carb apart and soak the parts in ATF for a few days to a week. With 17 small engines (9@4 and 8@2) to maintain and use I go through a lot of non-ethanol 91 octane fuel and lots of mix oil. I never have stale fuel laying around! Some of the 4 stroke stuff I got for free... 5 snowblowers and a chipper. Those needed rehabilitation to varying degrees. The snowblowers have been distributed to family and to me! My sons have gotten a lot of free stuff too... riding mowers, lawnmowers, chainsaws, pressure washers. It is amazing how much equipment is discarded for often trivial reasons. For example, one snow blower was "hard to use" so the guy bought a new one. From looking at it I could tell the cables had been reversed on the bail and the double cable stop had been replaced by two hose clamps. A $9 OEM cable stop solved the problem and it starts on the first pull every time!
I locked up a hedge trimmer with True Fuel. Great advice. I wonder if car collectors or the military fill their engines with oil to protect them while in storage. Now I know how to store my gear.
I had an antique Cadillac 1976, in the winter I would add a quart of ATF to a full tank of gas would run it for 5-10 miles, park it and never had any problems starting/running the next spring. I used a battery tender to keep the battery fully charged as well.
Some old timers used to "pickle" the Wisconsin motors on their balers by pouring oil into the carb as the motor ran until it choked down and quit. Then, they thought, the carb and engine was good for the winter. Four stork motor, sure, but that's what they did.
I’ve used Aspen, or trufuel for years. Never an issue. Chainsaw was at the cabin for over 2 years (trufuel). Started right up. Never had an issue. Me thinks someone is tampering with the trufuel. Possibly buying from Home Depot, using it, and returning the can with god knows what in it.
I watched a British vid where the guy soaked his diaphragms in brake fluid. He showed it at the various time stages....takes a few days for really stiff ones. He said though it was only temporary and not a permanent fix. He implied that once they get really stiff, you'll never fully restore them but they can work again.
When I came across this and couldn’t get a replacement, I would rub Vaseline into the diaphragms and put them in a sandwich bag for a day or to or until I need the unit again. Doesn’t always work, but often enough to make me use it as a last resort!!
Honestly, I've always struggled to find the time to run them dry and that has seemed like such a waste of time and money! I would end up just trying to run the machine once a month or so, even just for a few minutes, but I have still had issues (unsurprisingly). THANK YOU for this tip! Definitely going to use this one for our warm weather small engines as we put them away till spring! Love that there's no waste from this and how fast it is!
I've come across Mechanic in a Bottle, and i feel it works great not only to preserve fuel for a little while longer than sixty days, but to help revive a small engine carb without tearing into it.
Good info about how the engine and fuel system works. Would make a good video to show the different types of fuel systems on say two-strokes, four strokes and the like. Thanks.
"fogging" the carb and cylinder(s) with oil is what I do to my 2 and 4 stroke motors when putting them up. I learned this trick from winterizing my boats motor for many years.
Some people might be tempted to empty the old storage oil, and mix exactly with 1 gallon of gas, and then useing. This would probably lead to a lean mixture, because your not going to get 100% of the oil back out of the machine. I believe regular motor oil, (not pre-mix oil) might be just as effective for storeing, and could be recycled or disposed of, instead of reusing.
Very educational, Champion recommends in its log splitter's handbook to use fuel stabilizer and pour ½ Oz of oil in the cylinder for long term storage. They say to use the recoil slowly to distribute the oil in the cylinder.
Sta-bil makes fogging oil which works very well for long term storage. You spray it into the carb for about 10 seconds and then shut the engine off. Remove the spark plug and spray it into the cylinder for about 3 seconds. I learned about fogging oil from Evinrude when I bought a brand-new 40 HP for my 14 foot BW.
You rock! I've always run dry and had good results. However, I have always been concerned about the bad fuel residue. It never occurred to me to do what you just suggested, but it makes perfect sense! I will do this from now on! Thank you for all that you do 👏 Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family ❤
Nice trick Bre...My 30 year old Husqvarna 51 ALWAYS starts on 2 pulls I just use 100% gas and husky xp+ oil.... the carb in this saw has never been touched.
After watching your videos, I have 2 blowers, that I had in storage for years, I pulled them out fired them up and kept working the diaphragms now they work fine, one is a little cold blooded, but it does run great after it's warmed up. The one good thing is I put them away dry, which worried me after seeing your videos, until you showed the one video of just working the machine over and over again.. Thanks
My storage ritual : Drain or pour out fuel. Add generous splash of Sea Foam to empty tank. Start engine and run till it quits. Residual fuel will draw Sea Foam through system and protect it. Engine will noticeably smoke just before it stalls. Come springtime with fresh fuel everything starts right up. All of my Echo or Briggs lawn equipment is at least a dozen years old and have not had the carburetors apart ever, even with the lousy ethanol fuel ran through them season after season.
Yeah I’ve got a bunch of 2-cycle equipment that I store myself. I use a quart of oil to treat multiple engines. Pour in quart, pump oil into carb, use funnel and pour oil out tank back in to quart bottle. I repeat this process using just that one quart of oil until they are all done. For “short term” over the winter storage I don’t find it’s necessary to leave a bunch of oil multiple tanks. To me the objective has been achieved once oil is in the carb and the fuel line/primer line/filter has been coated with oil.
Great video. I have never heard of running oil through carburetor, but makes a lot of sense. 60 years ago whenever I bought my first chainsaw the dealer told me to never run the saw dry before storing. To this day I still follow this suggestion, plus I use ethanol free gas, change it out every year and start it at least every six months even though I don't use it to cut any more for cutting because of its' weight and and high compression which make the pull more than these 76 year arms can handle.I have only rebuilt the carb3 times.
Between brush mower, chain saw mini-tiller, string trimmer, etc., I'm familiar with what you demo. The first success I found was to use gasoline with no ethanol, There was gas station that sold it, but no more. So, I remove ethanol from pump gas. The secret is simple. Just add water (to the fuel can). The ethanol is hydrophilic. The ethanol is more attracted to water than gasoline. Put a quart of water into a container with a gallon of pump gas, wait 20 minutes and pour off the water/alcohol mix. (add a little food coloring to make the separation obvious. Pour off the water and you're left with only the gasoline. (The pour off is toxic so treat it accordingly.) The second trick is simply to replace the carburetor. For most brands that's less than $10 or $12 (plus freight). So far, the carbs I've replaced needed no adjustment. Anything to avoid the headaches.
Great tips in regard keeping the oil mix in there to rest this machines. Also, I used to use true fuel until I saw your videos and started to use RedArmor. My machines works better and faster with no issues. Thanks!
In addition, I love the video where you show us how to start chainsaw. My chainsaw start real quick with your tips and I havent miss it. For all of those that own a chainsaw is a must watch video!
I’ve found that for me, best thing I’ve done is, get non ethanal fuel mix it with Stihl ultra, then run my two strokes monthly or so to keep them up. Long term, store them with the 2 stroke oil. I’ve never had a machine that would run on any of the trufuel or Husqvarna premix fuels. But for 3-6 month storage, it really helps to keep them from drying out.
Great tip Bre, Thanks!!! Im a run-dryer, but I only use non ethanol, and dump it into the truck after 2 weeks if not used up. I have yet to have a problem, but think this is a great idea for longer term storage! If a unit does not have a prime button can a large syringe be used to push oil up the lines?
There is a UA-cam vid that suggests an old school method of filling the carb and fuel lines with ATF....for multi year storage. It burns bad for about a minute....but preserves rubber that allow the unit to run.
hey Bre, For many years here in the UK once I finish a season with either 2 or 4 cycle and 4mix engines is fill and run with synthetic petrol called Aspen so far I haven't experienced any issues even after a couple of years without any use. Love all the stuff you put on youtube.
I appreciate the time and effort you make for your great videos, I love watching your videos, I get so much information on how to save me frustrations with my units.
Great presentation as always. I'm glad you mentioned terminology. You keep referring to your borescope/inspection camera as an endoscope. Endoscopes are medical versions and although similar, they are quite different. Endo's can be disassembled for sterilization. Inspection cameras, not so much, lol. Every time you mention "Endo", I have to wonder where it's been, lol.
@@Chickanic I don't actually care about it. A friend of mine works in the sterilization dept. of a hospital and after hearing of a Dr,s office that never sent there's in for cleaning in years, just the word is cringy to me, lol. It is not a reflection on you at all. If you didn't mention terminology, I wouldn't have mentioned it.
I’m from Arkansas and now live in Wilmington North Carolina. It’s awesome to see someone from my home state with an amazing shop that actually carries common parts you need. I run chainsaws like all day everyday and here your lucky if they have files. They have to order everything. So now I just order everything myself. Thanks for the links and part numbers.
When working on a saw without a primer, I have found that the carb will 'prime' way faster and more easily--if you take the plug out, run switch 'off', throttle at idle (closed) and pull the starter cord without all that compression working against you. Lower crankcase pulse to the carb will be just as it always was, but without all the resistance.
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I keep 2 different fuel mixes because I have plenty new stuff that wants 40:1 and an old saw that wants 16:1. Well it took some time but my modern saw finally fouled a plug and I had to change the plug from running that 16:1 because I had it at home mixed and left my can of 40:1 elsewhere so I used what’s here. But I’ve had the saw for 3-5 years now and never shied away from running the richer mix in it, or my weed eaters, and I had a weed waxier last with the crappy clear lines for years storing with fuel in it and I suspect that using the non alcohol gas with the heavier oil mix extends the life of everything that’s not designed for alcohol.
This is why I WENT TO ELECTRIC/ battery machines
Ever since the first time I had an issue with bad gas. I started going to the airport and buying a gallon of 100 low lead aviation fuel. I am doing this now for about 25 years. Aviation fuel has the additive where I can sit for unbelievable amount of time and not degrade. Granted, it’s more money than your average gas but well worth it. To use your words to save time and money and frustration.
I use to run it in my dirt bike in the 1980s until the airport owner wouldn't sell it to me any longer. He said it was for planes and that's it.
@@doug3819 I just drive up to the pump at the airport and buy my gas. They don’t know what I am putting it in
I always tell my customers to use ethanol-free gas in their mix. Still, I think they have done something to our gas itself, because it just doesn't smell the same as it used to back in the 90s.
Absolutely! It does NOT smell even remotely the same.
That’s great if you can get ethanol-free at a pump, but the only supply around here is the canned VP racing 94, which is $28/gallon. At that price, it’s almost cheaper to just rebuild the carb every year.
@michaelrockwell9691 and @Chickanic
I'm not a mechanic of ANY kind... just a DIYer (too broke to hire anyone who knows anything...).
Even so, I've got to tell you that I've noticed the same thing! Over the years, the smell and actual FEEL of the gasoline has changed! It seems like even the Ethanol-Free stuff leaves a weird film on things.
Of course, way back, there was the whole "Leaded" vs "Unleaded" thing going on (I'm 67). But, this is different.
I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the fact that A LOT of our petroleum products are now refined outside of the US, and/or the crude oil we've been using up lately (again, from outside the US) is of a poorer quality. (much higher sulfur???)
Just something I've been pondering.... Honestly don't know the answer, but, I've noticed the same differences in smell.
@@Chickanic How difficult is it to get aviation gas? Over here, in Belgium, it is the only source of leaded gas that I know of.
yep, I used to local small airport and get their gas $6 a gallon@@Jaak_the_Belgian
I spent several years as a rubber chemist back in the 80’s. Diaphragms and other oil-resistant parts are typically made of Buna N aka Nitrile rubber which is very oil resistant, as a matter of fact, it is too oil resistant, so SBR rubber, which is a sponge where oil is concerned is added to the formulation in order to swell and make up for the ingredients in Buna N which will leach out over time when subjected to oil. A typical specification for Buna N will have a couple of volume change values in different fluids : (gas, motor oil, Jet A, etc. ) at different aging temperatures for 22 hours or longer. A Buna N formula consists of Buna N polymer, reinforcing fillers (typically different types of carbon blacks), process oils which make the rubber more flowable so parts can be made. There are also a myriad of other chemicals: antioxidants, anti-ozonants, plus a cross-linking package that can include cross-linkers, accelerators, retarders , process aids, mold releases, and sometimes a kitchen sink depending on how desperate the chemist is.
Putting a pure Nitrile Rubber part in a solvent will leach these ingredients out of the Nitrile, causing the part to shrink and fail in the application. That is a why a “swellable” rubber (SBR) is added. It allows oil or fuel to absorb into the rubber part and make it bigger. It is a balancing act.
Someone mentioned using brake clean to rejuvenate brittle parts. You can see why this would work since it is swelling the Buna N, but at the same time it is leaching other ingredients out, changing the physical properties of the part.
FWIW
What would you recommend for membrane protection beside pumping red armor oil thru carburetor?
@@AL-sb9ch I make up 2 gallons of gas/oil mix at a time and add the recommended amount of Seafoam. I have no idea what the formula for Seafoam is. Given the analytical instruments available today it wouldn't be difficult to determine the formula, but back in the 70's it would have taken a great deal of effort plus the expense of disposable supplies, so none of my crowd did it. I use Seafoam because it was invented in the 1930's before MBA's were invented to look over chemists' shoulders and force them to use the cheapest ingredients available while charging the highest price for their product. Hopefully the new owner will not screw with the formula to save a tenth of a cent per gallon and destroy their long-time good reputation. Think Craftsman. When in doubt, experiment. Save all of your old brittle parts and cut them into parts and soak in different magic juices. Cutting the parts and testing separately means the test pieces all have the same formulation. You may find that different parts respond differently to different solvents. "In God we trust. All others bring data". Mantra of research.
I ALWAYS use Sea Foam too.
It has a petroleum base that keeps everything nice and pliable.
My small engines always start!@@libsrdum
What about Marvel's Mystery Oil mixed in the gas. It's strange stuff.
What about using brake fluid to limber up the diaphragm?
There is only one reason I hit the like button,it’s because they didn’t put a love 💕 button.You and your videos are awesome ❤❤❤ much love and appreciation.Keep up the amazing work.
Bre, you are undoubtedly the best UA-camr that really helps lots of ignorant people like me. Appreciate you.💪
I just have to say thank you for reminding me of some of the things I had forgotten about.
May God Bless you and the family.
I buy ethanol free premium for my small engines. Only just now ran out of the fuel that I bought two springs ago (I didn't intend for it to last two summers, but misjudged it and obviously bought too much). While I did add fuel stabilizer to it last Fall, I think the main reason for the longevity was the lack of ethanol.
I was a small engine mechanic in the 70s-80s. I never kept up with the new machines so im no longer working on them. I would always tell people draining your machine is like leaving a coffee cup on your table when your done. The ring is just like gas in ur carb. gonna leave residue. Im a fan of leaving fuel in because it keeps seals moist. Works for me. Thanks for your input, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. PS........I'm a big fan of Opti for 2 cycles.
OPTI....opti opti opti. (Echos off the canyon walls).
I started using Opti in the late '70's fantastic stuff.
I learned that oil trick from my dad who learned it from his dad. I've been doing that trick all my life without bad issues.
Back when gas here dropped down to $1.37/gallon, four years ago, I filled two 5 gallon gas cans for a rainy day. Then, I started watching these UA-cam videos all saying that modern day gas is no good after 60 days! I called my local Auto Zone and Tom said to bring it down and he would test its usability. He said there was nothing wrong with it. I was still reluctant to put in my car, so I gave it to him and watched him pour it all into his truck. Gas here today is over $4/gal so I learned a valuable lesson.
Another great video from the no BS lady!
I will do this from now on.
Great stuff, episode by episode. Guy in his 70's, a lifetime of mechanical experience in timberland, farming, drag and road racing, mo-cycles, and yeah, small engines. Yet I get so much out of your tutorials, even if new slants on older information, all helpful, and the added percs of a good-lookin' woman with a sense of humor, just the right mix of a little sarcasm. 🤙👍
I cant imagine "putting your equipment" away for the season. Out here in the south eastern desert of AZ as soon as a dog pee's anywhere, we will get tumble weeds & all manner of "winter weeds", so the weedeater is used even in the dead of winter 'round here!
Living my best La Vida Loca here in southeastern Arizona
HI from Canada, we enjoy your channel.
Your videos are interesting and informative.
Rosemary and Dave.
I use Aspen, and when storing the machines, I empty their tanks, start them, and let them idle till they stop. I very rarely have problems - last month I used a saw I hadn't used since 2012, and it started and ran as if I had used it last week.
Hi Bre.
Long time auto tech here, now retired. Puttering with two strokes for 50 years has taught me a lot but always willing to pick up a few new tricks.
You put on a good and informative show.
Often times the old engines that the fuel system is full of oil it isn’t necessarily that oil was placed intentionally. Over the years the gasoline evaporates and leaves the oil residue. Keep in mind that the fuel/oil mix was very heavy often at 16.1
Recently started an old Mccullogh Super Pro 81 that had that situation. A quick cleanup of the fuel system and adding fresh fuel it started up after 3 or 4 pulls.
And you are correct, the oil doesn’t seem to affect the carb gaskets.
Love those old Macs.
❤ good point
I was thinking the same thing about the 16.1 deal.And most people years ago used regular motor oil in the gas instead of real 2 cycle oil.And it must have worked great because i have worked on old 1970s saws that fuel lines and diaphrams were fine.
I have found Sta-Bil 360 Marine to be highly effective! From our 2 & 4 cycle outboards, many chainsaws, lawn mower, weed trimmers, and generators, I've never had a problem. Over winter storage no problem. I make sure fuel tanks are full before storage.
1st off I really appreciate your videos. My winterization ritual is to start and run everything (at least) once a month. With multiple chainsaws trimmers augers generators pumps outboards motorcycles & more Just keeping them going is the simplest way to be sure they’re all ready to go.
Ethanol Free of course, Washington State.
This used to be very common, but they used ATF fluid some people call it after run oil‘s, but it’s basically ATF fluid and you run some of it through your carb or over anything you don’t want to rust and it also puts a little down in your cylinders to give it a nice coating of oil And you can store things long-term because even after years if the ATF fluid starts to come up a little as soon as gas hits it, it gets all fluid it again and it’ll smoke a little bit until it burns the oil off but a lot of mechanics restoring old engines will do the same. They’ll just pump a little in the cylinders with a B diesel or two stroke or four stroke to give it some lube and let it soak into the rings, but if you do it in advance, you’re pushing the fuel out and giving it a nice coat of ATF. And advantage of that over oil is you don’t have to worry about filling it up because even if it gets really old and comes up as soon as gasoline hits it, it melts again. Other people I’ve also used castor oil, honestly, I don’t know how it works overtime but I always used after run or ATF.
Love your channel!! Please keep helping us all! We girls rock!! GOD BLESS
Aw! Thanks!
We actually do the same thing, we “flush” the system by priming pure seafoam motor treatment through the fuel system. If you’re going to get something sit for a long time, it may also be advisable to remove the spark plug and spray some seafoam motor treatment into the combustion chamber, and then pull the starter to circulate it. Then pour the excess seafoam back out of the gas tank into a bottle to be used later.
For those who do not have ethanol free gas in their area, it's easy to make your own. There are UA-cam videos but basically you just add water to the container of gas, which absorbs the ethanol and settles to the bottom of the container. Since water and gasoline do not mix, you just drain off the water/ethanol mix and you're left with pure gas.
Oops! Forgot to mention to start with ethanol premium. When you remove the ethanol, octane drops to that of regular gas. This is because ethanol premium is actually regular with ethanol added, and ethanol regular is really cheap gas with ethanol added to raise the octane.
I didn't know this. Very cool.
I think I’ll try this because I agree that our gasoline is lower quality now because we are getting low quality crude from Venezuela instead of the highest quality from the USA!
Use akylate fuel such as aspen or STIHL Motomix. They will not harm plastics or rubbers when sitting for long periods of time. Run your tank out of normal or rec fuel mix and then fill up with them and start the engine for a bit so it fills all the lines. Then shut it down for winter.
I am guilty of leaving fuel in 2 strokes. The only exercise I get is getting them started again in the spring. Thanks and Happy Holidays.
I just got a Stihl ms270 that sat for years and like you said, the diaphragm was mint! Guess it was stop being used when we had good gas 😂
I have to rebuild the fuel system on my old Poulan chain saw and Bolen's line trimmer. Neither will start and the trimmer will yank the skin off your fingers with the backlash. It's gonna be fun. The chainsaw has been sitting for 15 years.
My best advice for anyone using MIAB is not to rush the process. My last snowblower I picked up for free sat for 2 years with gas in it. Luckily the float bowl had a drain screw. It took about 30 days before the MIAB worked thru to the carburetor. the best part was it actually cleaned out the fuel system. I didn't remove the carb or even the float bowl. I was a small engine tech for 30 plus years and never ran my stuff dry. I have my own potion mix I use for storage, a little mechanic in a bottle, a dash of stabil, dash of Ethanol Shield and dash of Sea Foam. And Bri I enjoywatching your videos and always learn something I didn't know
Good old days when u didn’t even consider running things dry. Things sure have changed, 2 strokes is totally different, but 4 cycle must be run dry nowadays. Like I said times sure have changed
Thanks for the recipe.
I ad 100% regular gasoline to my fuel then I don't have to worry about it. I'm also a small engine mechanic and my equipment starts on the first pull every time every season without running it dry or adding anything to it. Acid gas (ethanol blended hybrid fuel) actually cost you 20% more to run because it's 30% less efficient people think they're saving 10% by buying ethanol blended fuels it's actually costs 20% more because it's 30% less efficient and along with all the other crap that happens because of it.
with all ur videos, i am the repair shop now.
Some carbs don't have prime bulbs but transmission fluid works amazing to store 50 trans /50 cycle oil.
I buy non ethanol premium, spike it with Marine Stabil and never have an issue. I keep the mix fresh (up to 1 yr) and store it in the coolest location in my shop. Red Armor is my choice for oil but I also use Stihl Ultra.
Project Farm did a test with fuel stabilizers and showed they all did nothing against the issues with ethanol.....Phase separation is the big big problem with ethanol then it is all down hill fast. As long as the fuel is sealed and in a stabile temp it likely will be fine for a while but most systems are vented leading to collection of moisture feeding on itself......slippery slope
They want you on e - everything
I'm not a commercial landscaper just a modest homeowner. All my OPE is now battery-powered. Storage issues no longer exist. However, my generator is gas powered and have had regular gas with Sta-Bil in it for over 2 years. I start it about every 6 months. Zero issues. 🤷♂️
Great idea and a great video Bre. I've never done much w/2-strokes but for the past 50 years or so, I run a small amount of auto- trans fluid through my carb on my 4-stroke engines at the end of the season. Squirt some in the fuel line, yank the pull cord several times and it coats the inside of the carb. Always starts at the beginning of the next season. Keep the videos coming Bre and keep us posted on your home shop.
I've been putting a bottle of red armor in the gas tank of old tractors for storage. I notice the float never sticks and I don't have starting issues. Central Kentucky here, your mileage may vary.
I used to use True Fuel until I had a couple of small engine mechanics tell me the same thing. I’ve been using Red Armor like they said and no issues. I like the tip about using the oil for storage like you mentioned I’m going to start doing that.
I always mix with premium fuel ethanol free and use Stihl oil .. still no problem.. if the saw sits for a few years with the fuel in it , I don’t try and start it. I dump out the fuel and put fresh . As for the diaphragm , I haven’t tried it..but apparently soaking it in Dot 3 brake fluid will do the trick..in a pinch if you can get one in time and want to say cut up a bunch of wood.
The oil in the gas tank and carb is a great tip .😊
Hello Bre. IN the Netherlands we use Aspen fuel. No ethanol en your equipment starts immediately after not using for 6 months.
I always use ethanol free fuel for all my small engines with stabilizer. So far I have had good luck with that
This is the same as "Fogging" my outboard on my boat. Before it gets put away for the winter I run it and spray the fogging fluid into the intake until it smokes a lot and the engine dies. Next season you add new fuel and fire her up. Smokes like hell for a few minute's but then all id good. By the way... Love all your content.
Right on Bre a trick for all to remember, they just gotta do it but too many will not. At EP we sell our customers (when they want) a litre can of Kinetix alkylate fuel either the 4 or 2 cycle for storage of their equipment. Once they run it out of fuel they just add enough of this fuel to the tank to get the carb filled with this canned fuel and fire it up for a few minutes then shuter down. We guarantee fire up even if stored for two years. Those that did not want it normally bring their equipment in for a carb cleaning the following year and in 10 years not a single warranty claim for no start conditions.
As a mechanic I've seen old cars and I mean relics, brought in on trailers to rejuvenate brakes etc before a full restore and many motors filled right to the top of the rocker covers with oil, always a joy to see these cars come right back in soon after running perfectly for a first free brake check and finding out nothing was needed done to the engines. It was always the car "bought from the old guy" and well looked after. I keep old oil for soaking parts that will sit, in a rag, stops that awful rusty spot you do NOT wanna see on your new (old) valves, camshaft or lifters etc. saying that I HAVE seen some rubber parts turn to MUSH lol
From a loooong time small engine shop owner and mechanic, great advise!
As a Grand Master Marine Tech for Mercury Marine we run the 2 stroke fuel tanks down or pump them down and add fuel conditioner and add Mercury fogging oil to the remaining gas @ about 1%. Run the engine; spray fogging oil through the carbs & shut it down. Done.
Happy to see you settling down in the new set. I am building my first indoor sets, because I love to run them and fixing them is only a means to that end. Not something I ever considered filming like you and Taryl and Mustie and Mick. Love your show and you continue to inspire. Thank you.
What about using a rubber and plastic restorer like AT-205-ATP (promoted by Scotty Kilmur) or MG-408C or Silicone spray lube for wipers & gaskets etc?
I absolutely love echo red armor 2 stroke oil! It’s kept my saws, trimmers, and blowers going for years now! I’m definitely a believer
Yup...... In SoCal my grandparents did that back in the 1950's and 60's...... When we went to blended fuels I the 1970's we used atf to clean the engines in our cars and it lubes and cleans the carbs and valves. Still do that today!
Second time I looked at something like this. First time, guy used auto trans fluid, same info as you, Bre.
Keep them coming. HAPPY THANKSGIVING ❤❤❤
I started winterizing 4 stroke outboards about 10 years ago by running a mix of gas and stabilizer into the motor for a bit, and then, I put a heavy mix of 2 stroke oil into the fuel, but, I let it run dry and coat the carb and float well, then pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil into the cylinders. Ever since then, the corrosion problems I had in the carb never happened again, and like you said, I just have to run some gas into a bit to get past the oil and smoke.
I love your videos and have benefited greatly!
Aw! Thanks!
Great Info here Brie! Thanks for sharing this! 👍
Hi Bre. Something I learned sometime ago is that for brittle diaphrams is to soak them in brake fluid overnight and they come out as soft as a babies b#m. Give it a try! Also with the other one put it in boiling water and it will soften and straighten. Cheers and have a good day.
Bre should do a video of experimenting with brake fluid like you said, and any other soaking fluids that people recommend to see which one works best. This brake fluid idea might be worth a try.
@@maubunky1 What I have found using the brake fluid is that it's only a temporary fix. The diaphragm doesn't stay pliable very long.
Especially this time of year where everybody is putting away their small engine garden equipment. @@maubunky1
Brake Fluid also has worked for me
Diaphragms are so cheap why bother ? Kinda like rinsing toilet paper to reuse it !
I use only ethanol-free gas for my small engine equipment. I usually store 40-50 gallons of ethanol-free gas for 10-12 months. I then will empty my storage containers into my vehicles and refill the containers for storage. I don't have issues with leaving gas in my equipment. Adding ethanol to our fuel was a terrible idea!
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Another awesome video. Very informative. I have an electric chain saw with a 14" bar. It does what I need it to do.
Здравствуйте! Смотрю вас очень давно ! Я из России , Курская область . Отличные видео ! Тоже были проблемы с карбюратором и тоже отдавал деньги за полную замену карбюратора . По инструкции выливал топливо , чтобы хранить зимой хранить.. Теперь оставляю топливо на зиму в технике. Смешиваю масло и бензин 1:25 или 1:20. Использую масло Zic 2t scooter или Husqvarna 2t HP. Весной сливая это топливо . Работает инструмент весной идеально )
You can do the same thing with your four stroke equipment using automatic transmission fluid. Works great for generators that get used infrequently.
Please give me a brand of ATF that you trust to work for 4 cycle generators storage. Thank you.
Not sure it matters. I used whatever I have.
@@Rick_Kn Thanks for the update.
@@AAa-qd8hb do a UA-cam search for Long Term Generator Storage. Should be the first video that pops up.
ATF can work... Pull the carb apart and soak the parts in ATF for a few days to a week. With 17 small engines (9@4 and 8@2) to maintain and use I go through a lot of non-ethanol 91 octane fuel and lots of mix oil. I never have stale fuel laying around! Some of the 4 stroke stuff I got for free... 5 snowblowers and a chipper. Those needed rehabilitation to varying degrees. The snowblowers have been distributed to family and to me! My sons have gotten a lot of free stuff too... riding mowers, lawnmowers, chainsaws, pressure washers. It is amazing how much equipment is discarded for often trivial reasons. For example, one snow blower was "hard to use" so the guy bought a new one. From looking at it I could tell the cables had been reversed on the bail and the double cable stop had been replaced by two hose clamps. A $9 OEM cable stop solved the problem and it starts on the first pull every time!
I locked up a hedge trimmer with True Fuel. Great advice. I wonder if car collectors or the military fill their engines with oil to protect them while in storage. Now I know how to store my gear.
I had an antique Cadillac 1976, in the winter I would add a quart of ATF to a full tank of gas would run it for 5-10 miles, park it and never had any problems starting/running the next spring. I used a battery tender to keep the battery fully charged as well.
I remember when that model came out. Guess I'm going to have to tell the ladies I'm a "collectable Vintage".
Some old timers used to "pickle" the Wisconsin motors on their balers by pouring oil into the carb as the motor ran until it choked down and quit. Then, they thought, the carb and engine was good for the winter. Four stork motor, sure, but that's what they did.
Great suggestion. I usually run my stuff dry but I will try your idea. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
I’ve used Aspen, or trufuel for years. Never an issue. Chainsaw was at the cabin for over 2 years (trufuel). Started right up. Never had an issue. Me thinks someone is tampering with the trufuel. Possibly buying from Home Depot, using it, and returning the can with god knows what in it.
I watched a British vid where the guy soaked his diaphragms in brake fluid. He showed it at the various time stages....takes a few days for really stiff ones. He said though it was only temporary and not a permanent fix. He implied that once they get really stiff, you'll never fully restore them but they can work again.
I was putting in gas treatment. I was going to try running it dry but think i will try your method. Thanks for the tip!
When I came across this and couldn’t get a replacement, I would rub Vaseline into the diaphragms and put them in a sandwich bag for a day or to or until I need the unit again. Doesn’t always work, but often enough to make me use it as a last resort!!
Honestly, I've always struggled to find the time to run them dry and that has seemed like such a waste of time and money! I would end up just trying to run the machine once a month or so, even just for a few minutes, but I have still had issues (unsurprisingly). THANK YOU for this tip! Definitely going to use this one for our warm weather small engines as we put them away till spring! Love that there's no waste from this and how fast it is!
I've come across Mechanic in a Bottle, and i feel it works great not only to preserve fuel for a little while longer than sixty days, but to help revive a small engine carb without tearing into it.
Good info about how the engine and fuel system works. Would make a good video to show the different types of fuel systems on say two-strokes, four strokes and the like. Thanks.
"fogging" the carb and cylinder(s) with oil is what I do to my 2 and 4 stroke motors when putting them up. I learned this trick from winterizing my boats motor for many years.
Some people might be tempted to empty the old storage oil, and mix exactly with 1 gallon of gas, and then useing. This would probably lead to a lean mixture, because your not going to get 100% of the oil back out of the machine. I believe regular motor oil, (not pre-mix oil) might be just as effective for storeing, and could be recycled or disposed of, instead of reusing.
Thank you for your videos. I try to find 1 hero each day… and today you’re it.
Very educational, Champion recommends in its log splitter's handbook to use fuel stabilizer and pour ½ Oz of oil in the cylinder for long term storage. They say to use the recoil slowly to distribute the oil in the cylinder.
Sta-bil makes fogging oil which works very well for long term storage. You spray it into the carb for about 10 seconds and then shut the engine off. Remove the spark plug and spray it into the cylinder for about 3 seconds. I learned about fogging oil from Evinrude when I bought a brand-new 40 HP for my 14 foot BW.
❤LOVE your PSA at the end.. I hope it's bringing you some stress relief! 👍😎✊
You rock! I've always run dry and had good results. However, I have always been concerned about the bad fuel residue. It never occurred to me to do what you just suggested, but it makes perfect sense! I will do this from now on!
Thank you for all that you do 👏
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family ❤
4:03 🌺
Hmm, you solved a few problems I've been having. Cheers.
Thanks for the information Bre ❤❤❤.
Thank you for watching!
Nice trick Bre...My 30 year old Husqvarna 51 ALWAYS starts on 2 pulls I just use 100% gas and husky xp+ oil.... the carb in this saw has never been touched.
Hey Bre,
Thank you for all you do for your viewers! Keep up the great work!
After watching your videos, I have 2 blowers, that I had in storage for years, I pulled them out fired them up and kept working the diaphragms now they work fine, one is a little cold blooded, but it does run great after it's warmed up. The one good thing is I put them away dry, which worried me after seeing your videos, until you showed the one video of just working the machine over and over again.. Thanks
Any thoughts on Marvel Mystery Oil for this purpose?
My storage ritual : Drain or pour out fuel. Add generous splash of Sea Foam to empty tank. Start engine and run till it quits. Residual fuel will draw Sea Foam through system and protect it. Engine will noticeably smoke just before it stalls. Come springtime with fresh fuel everything starts right up. All of my Echo or Briggs lawn equipment is at least a dozen years old and have not had the carburetors apart ever, even with the lousy ethanol fuel ran through them season after season.
Great video I will definitely put oil in my units over the winter and try it thanks
I learned something today with that tip about putting only oil for storage. Thanks much!!
Another great video! I’ve been contemplating winterizing my “fleet” of small engines and now you’ve motivated me to get with it. You’re the best!,,
Yeah I’ve got a bunch of 2-cycle equipment that I store myself. I use a quart of oil to treat multiple engines. Pour in quart, pump oil into carb, use funnel and pour oil out tank back in to quart bottle. I repeat this process using just that one quart of oil until they are all done. For “short term” over the winter storage I don’t find it’s necessary to leave a bunch of oil multiple tanks. To me the objective has been achieved once oil is in the carb and the fuel line/primer line/filter has been coated with oil.
i use ethanol treatment from lucas oil and have had no issues at all with storing fuel
Great video. I have never heard of running oil through carburetor, but makes a lot of sense. 60 years ago whenever I bought my first chainsaw the dealer told me to never run the saw dry before storing. To this day I still follow this suggestion, plus I use ethanol free gas, change it out every year and start it at least every six months even though I don't use it to cut any more for cutting because of its' weight and and high compression which make the pull more than these 76 year arms can handle.I have only rebuilt the carb3 times.
I can only imagine they told you not to run it dry. Hoping you were using ethanol fuel. So they would have maintenence work in the spring.
having only having to rebuild carb 2 03 three times must mean I am doing something right.@@matthewbeaver5026
Back when we were kids starting out, there was no Ethanol in fuel. Only lead. And the fuel lasted 6 months or more
Between brush mower, chain saw mini-tiller, string trimmer, etc., I'm familiar with what you demo. The first success I found was to use gasoline with no ethanol, There was gas station that sold it, but no more. So, I remove ethanol from pump gas. The secret is simple. Just add water (to the fuel can). The ethanol is hydrophilic. The ethanol is more attracted to water than gasoline. Put a quart of water into a container with a gallon of pump gas, wait 20 minutes and pour off the water/alcohol mix. (add a little food coloring to make the separation obvious. Pour off the water and you're left with only the gasoline. (The pour off is toxic so treat it accordingly.) The second trick is simply to replace the carburetor. For most brands that's less than $10 or $12 (plus freight). So far, the carbs I've replaced needed no adjustment. Anything to avoid the headaches.
Great tips in regard keeping the oil mix in there to rest this machines. Also, I used to use true fuel until I saw your videos and started to use RedArmor. My machines works better and faster with no issues. Thanks!
In addition, I love the video where you show us how to start chainsaw. My chainsaw start real quick with your tips and I havent miss it. For all of those that own a chainsaw is a must watch video!
I’ve found that for me, best thing I’ve done is, get non ethanal fuel mix it with Stihl ultra, then run my two strokes monthly or so to keep them up.
Long term, store them with the 2 stroke oil.
I’ve never had a machine that would run on any of the trufuel or Husqvarna premix fuels. But for 3-6 month storage, it really helps to keep them from drying out.
Great tip Bre, Thanks!!! Im a run-dryer, but I only use non ethanol, and dump it into the truck after 2 weeks if not used up. I have yet to have a problem, but think this is a great idea for longer term storage! If a unit does not have a prime button can a large syringe be used to push oil up the lines?
There is a UA-cam vid that suggests an old school method of filling the carb and fuel lines with ATF....for multi year storage. It burns bad for about a minute....but preserves rubber that allow the unit to run.
hey Bre,
For many years here in the UK once I finish a season with either 2 or 4 cycle and 4mix engines is fill and run with synthetic petrol called Aspen so far I haven't experienced any issues even after a couple of years without any use. Love all the stuff you put on youtube.
I appreciate the time and effort you make for your great videos, I love watching your videos, I get so much information on how to save me frustrations with my units.
Great presentation as always. I'm glad you mentioned terminology. You keep referring to your borescope/inspection camera as an endoscope. Endoscopes are medical versions and although similar, they are quite different. Endo's can be disassembled for sterilization. Inspection cameras, not so much, lol. Every time you mention "Endo", I have to wonder where it's been, lol.
I've always called it that, because that is what the company calls it in all of their listings. Here is a link. amzn.to/3QJcnQn
@@Chickanic I don't actually care about it. A friend of mine works in the sterilization dept. of a hospital and after hearing of a Dr,s office that never sent there's in for cleaning in years, just the word is cringy to me, lol. It is not a reflection on you at all. If you didn't mention terminology, I wouldn't have mentioned it.
I’m from Arkansas and now live in Wilmington North Carolina. It’s awesome to see someone from my home state with an amazing shop that actually carries common parts you need. I run chainsaws like all day everyday and here your lucky if they have files. They have to order everything. So now I just order everything myself. Thanks for the links and part numbers.
When working on a saw without a primer, I have found that the carb will 'prime' way faster and more easily--if you take the plug out, run switch 'off', throttle at idle (closed) and pull the starter cord without all that compression working against you. Lower crankcase pulse to the carb will be just as it always was, but without all the resistance.
You are a wealth of knowledge. Love your vids!!
Absolutely genius finding other breaker and adapting it to generator
You have taught me a lot, thanks. Please keep up the videos'
. Richard South Carolina