Concrete anchors
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Concrete anchors are a heavy duty anchor for fixing objects to masonry surfaces. Here we use a thru bolt to demonstrate how to fix a piece of wood to a concrete slab. One problem with thru bolts is that they are extremely difficult to remove and so here we have drilled the hole much deeper so that the old thru bolt can be knocked into the hole.
Every time I have a DIY job to do, I come to your channel and there's a video there waiting for me. This morning I had no idea what an anchor bolt was, now I know how to fix my fence post to concrete. Please keep these videos coming, they're a goldmine of information. Thanks again.
Best video about anchor bolts. I've been looking at several and yours is the only that explains its use and removal. Thank you.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
the job itself isn't particularly difficult but it doesn't prevent it from being a great tutorial video! I watch it through and find it very useful and enjoyable( nice and clean, no talking shit). Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the comment
Great video. Excellent tip to drill the depth out more than needed for an easy solution if you want to remove the bolt. Well done. Cheers and thanks.
You are welcome.
Thank you for the comment ;-)
Ultimate Handyman look at Greg German on UA-cam for how to remove through bolt's from rock!
Don't forget to blow out your holes. A lot of times trash can get in the way of driving the bolts to the depth you want and you can't remove them to do it later!
Most useful advise here guys.
Yes important to blow your holes clean
Nice video, great tip about avoiding possible trips. Thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Well made video and explanation on how to......thanks Ultimate Handyman
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is exactly what I needed. I am going to secure a costco gazebo to an exposed aggregate concr deck, and hopefully keep it from blowing away. Thanks man.
+John Bullock You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
+varun009
It's a Halfords professional ratchet spanner- ua-cam.com/video/Qd2LLH3UNmU/v-deo.html
Ultimate Handyman
Did u say u were going to fasten that wood block to some concrete gummy bears?
I'm getting ready to build a new wooden front porch. I needed to know how to bolt 2 posts to the brick wall. I'm going to use this method. Thanks!
*****
You are welcome, thanks for the comment
***** Well, I'm done with the porch and I'm getting all kinds of compliments. The 2 posts against the brick wall are more solid than I ever imagined they'd be. Those bolts were a lifesaver.
*****
Good stuff ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Please, can I hear you yell, "THIS! IS! SPARTA!!!"
Yet another video that will come in handy in the near future
Thanks for the comment
Perfect. I always thought that the hole had to match the length exactly. That is a great tip.
THANK YOU!! I'm going to try it. 😬 Wish me luck. I need to secure a polycarbonate sheet over a basement window that's broken. Hoping this works.
+MsDanaRyan ツ Good luck with it ;-)
Wow -- fantastic video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the comment
I use a small length of plastic hose from a washing machine, (flexible), and about twelve to twenty inches long to blow dust from inside the hole......
Any length of tube or pipe..... even a drinking straw will do if necessary.......and it can be rigid, (say a piece of copper pipe).......or flexible.
The advantage of a flexible bit of pipe is that you don't always need to be on an exact level with the drilled hole to use it.........so if working on a ladder, or at any height on a wall, for example, you can be slightly above or below the hole, or to one side when you blow.....
If you angle the tube or pipe slightly at the surface of the hole and dust inside it will come out much easier than if you are 'dead straight on' to the hole.
Most important point to remember is that at THE MOMENT YOU BLOW into the tube or pipe, CLOSE YOUR EYES......
It's only a momentary 'puff' or 'blow'............BUT........any debris or dust in the hole will come out at some speed.....
Hence the slight angle of the pipe or tube at the surface of the hole..........it will expel it more easily.......and hence the need to momentarily CLOSE YOUR EYES....
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
P.S. A flexible piece of pipe stores more easily in a tool box or bag........
Thanks for the detailed comment ;-)
Good video...but. when clearing the mound of dust after drilling the hole, use a vacuum instead of a dust pan. Use the vac to clear the mound of dust, then position the vac hose over the drilled hole to clear debris from the hole for a better, more secure fit for the bolt.
👍
Great video clear instructions
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
you just know you can trust someone who talks diy with an accent like that.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Piporro
Yep he could tell me I needed to anchor my bike stand with sellotape and I'd believe him
LMFAO! I only trust people who wear orange shoes!
Lmao
Just the information I needed, well explained and thanks for taking the time to post it
Robert Berry
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Nice one. Thanks 👍🏾👍🏾
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just bought from Bolton BandQ packs of M10 I was trying to find some with strength specifications as this one suitable for stair case going off picture on the "diall" pack but other m10s have picture of heavy gate.. hopefully a video of strength tests might be produced sometime.. just wondered what you thought. Thx for video. 👍
Something like this would need some serious equipment to do the testing. There are also a lot of variables depending on the intended use and substrate. The shear load of a M10 bolt is probably about 3 tonnes, but obviously the substrate will fail well before that. 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thx.. I done more since.. really awkward even going by book, drill 90mm hole and thing can't be hammered just tapped generally stuck 40mm down even tho hole clean and newish concrete mix.. any advice please..Thx in advance 😀
They often are difficult to knock in, but should go in as deep as the depth of the hole. Have you tried using a vacuum to clean out the hole?
@@ultimatehandyman
I have thanks.. I found that tightening nut,then tapping for a while..loosening allows it to go in 1mm.with tsp of hammer again... after hour or so had enough...
I advise anyone to use a rawl bolt because most of the thread is 'covered by a long threaded shield' which can take a bit more hammering abuse with less chance of distortion..and tends to be a bolt head that is being hit.. Thx .. real world examples are hard task master.. 👍
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
@Ian Brooks
I'd got for resin fixings so close to the edge to be on the safe side ;-)
+Efstathius Placidas
I don't think so, although you can use Rawl bolts etc. which leave a threaded female insert in the hole, which you can then bolt to.
Excellent video. I'm building a timber mono-pitch outbuilding/shed and looking for a suitable fixing to bolt/screw the timber frame walls to the base. Obviously these are around the edges of the concrete base so are close to the edge. My question is - how close is too close - the timber frame is made using 3"x2" (the 3" dimension is the width of the frame) so is this too close for this type of fixing? What would you recommend?
At 1:07 to 1:17, the text says, "one thing you can do is use them for close to the edge fixing..." I think the narrator actually said "can't" but the voice recognition software doesn't understand Brits. I think he meant "CAN'T." He calls them "through bolts"; in the US we call them wedge anchors or Redheads, which is actually a brand name that's become generic. We also have s bolt called a "Titen" from Simpson-Strongtie which works better close to an edge. They cut threads in the concrete, so they don't exert as much expanding force, so they are less likely to crack the concrete. We haven't caught up with the rest of the world, so we only have inch (Imperial?) sizes- Simpson may have come up with metric sizes for the other side of the pond.
Someone asked about the definition of edge distance- check this link- www.engineeringexpress.com/wiki/spacing-edge-distance-embedment-important-concrete-anchors/
It gives a rule of thumb which is that an anchor should have a minimum of 12x the diameter of anchor spacing to an adjacent anchor or to any concrete edge. Also, the concrete should have a minimum thickness of 1.5x the depth of embedment.
Should I have said, "the voice recognition software doesn't understand Scotsmen." ?
Unfortunately I don't have to time to correct all of my videos, as there are over 700, but I'm trying to get around to doing manual closed captions. Sometimes the software gets it really wrong!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Clearly, the path to Artificial Intelligence leads through Artificial Stupidity- computers are even worse than humans when it comes to "common sense."
BTW, I appreciate the suggestion of overdrilling to facilitate "erasing" unneeded bolts- it's a rare industrial building that doesn't have the ground-down stubs of bolts scattered across the floor.
thanks man i was pulling my hair out trying to mount a metal bender from harbor freight
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
you don't use a spanner; you should use a torque wrench set to 15Nm, no?
Thanks for the reply - will look further into it - good stuff!
hy can these b used to attach wall brackets into brick? I am using a length of unistrut to brace against my back garden gate to make a solid secure retractable bar lock. the unistrut will slide in and out through the bracket.
it better to saw it off than tap it down. u see if u planning to tap it down later, then u must drill the hole deep for it to fall thru or fall deeper inside but what you forgot to mention the thickens of the concrete needs to be taken into consideration. if the concrete is 4" thick, and u drill deeper than 4" so you can tap down later, then the wedge part is going to pass the 4" when installing and the wedge may lock under the 4" slab of concrete which you don't want as that wont be strong and defeats the purpose of the wedge anchoring to concrete. Better to drill 3" deep, the wedge locks at 3" deep solid concrete which leaves 1" solid concrete before the concrete ends. later grab a grinder and cut off the excess if you want but al least until that time u are sure the wedge is actually anchored properly on your concrete and not below the concrete.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Would they be suitable for use where you may remove the nut multiple times? I'm looking to fix some gym equipment to my garage floor which would have to go in the middle of the floorspace. I'd like to be able to secure it and then remove it when required for whatever reason and then return back to the original spot.
Studs sticking out of the floor would not be an issue.
Yes, sure. We had some equipment on site that needed to be removed and re-fitted. As long as the sticking out studs are not a problem 👍
@@ultimatehandyman brilliant thanks. Even if it was multiple times a week?
@@BillyM213 Yes, it will be fine
(Sorry for the late reply, UA-cam comments has been playing up AGAIN, So I have just seen this)
very nice video! what happens if you go through the slab will the anchor still grab?
I enjoyed watching your video also another name of that anchor is sleave anchor I used these all the time because they can hold tons of weight. I used them one time for fastening garage door tracks to concrete walls🤩😎👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Probably one the best videos on this I've seen. Great job!
Thanks for the comment
Your easily pleased
Hopefully you still monitor these questions! I am trying to mount a ledger board on a cinder block wall, so the anchor bolts will fall into the cavity behind the holes I drilled. Also - the expanding flange doesn't expand. perhaps the cinder block hole is slightly too big or the cinder block material is too easily broken away inside the hole making it too loose?
Hi, I am not familiar with cinder blocks I'm afraid (we don't use them in the UK).
I'm not sure what people use when fixing into cinder blocks, perhaps resin would be a better option- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Is it possible to embed the anchor bolt into wet cement? That way you will not need to drill into concrete. Will the end bit still expand if it has concrete surrounding it?
"UH", thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I love them!
Can you use this same technique in a vertical stone wall? I want to fix something to my limestone house.
Thanks for the video man
A simple and effective way of explaining things thank you
Thanks for the comment
Could I use these in sandstone or is there something more suitable? It's to fix bolt down brackets for fence posts on a low wall.
Excelente y gracias por el consejo.
De nada
Gracias por el comentario
Can you use a through bolt on ceiling to hold shelves in a garage?
If the ceiling is concrete you can!
Thank you for the information. I have to anchor to concrete to attach metal cable between two walls to hang lights. Do they make anchors for this purpose? Thanks,Dave,Frederick Maryland.
Bro this bolt can bear 80kg or 100kg wight , if we set in house slab .. rply bro.. for hanging purpose .... Which size will u preffer for my requirements
You'll have to check the manufacturers specifications ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
When using out door in concrete exposed to the moisture water , so you need to use stainless steel screws ?
Yes, you can get stainless steel ones for external work, or some have a rust proof coating too.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great. I'll use this to anchor a safe in my garage.
hi, just wondering what anchor bolt to use to fix the post to a brick fence since my wooden backyard gate is already damage I build another one. the old owner of the house used the concrete nail which is not very good at all that damaged the brick as well. thanks!
Theses are not nearly as successful as they are advertised for. They say on the box concrete, mortot and brick. They work of with concrete and usually mortar however they are shit with bricks. In the US these are sold under the name brand Redhead. I personally recommend using Tapcon brand screws or bols as my success rate has been better with them. I'm not just stating this from a single experience either I'm a contractor and had this problem more then once. For me from now on it's Tapcon 100% of the time.
I agree, I am sure that they used to be advertised for fixing in any type of masonry although a guy commented on this video a while back and said they should only be used in concrete.
oh, thanks! if i hadn't seen this, i would've probably tried to eventually remove them by trying to saw them off, which would've taken AGES. well this was straight-forward!
Hi - a quick question regards to not using thru bolts 'near the edge of concrete' as you stated in your video --- what's a minimum safe distance from the edge?
I was thinking 3" would be ok, but would rather ask the expert...
Would an expansion bolt be strong enough for this project? I have a car(s) that I need to get in my garage the current one has a blown head gasket but is un-driveable. I don't always have extra hands to help push it in. I wanted an anchor point in a concrete foundation to winch off of or to use with a come along to pull it into the garage ( mild 5-10 degree incline). I have a good Dewalt Hammerdrill (13mm) Is this the best method for using as anchor point to attach a winch? Thanks!
Can you use these also without problems in a brick wall?
They are not designed to be used in bricks as most bricks have hollow sections, however I have used them in some bricks and they worked fine for me. I'd be more inclined to use resin fixings though as they will definitely work- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Good idea about using rustproof bolts. I wasn't sure whether the bolt would split the brick as it expanded, so you've put my mind at rest. The timber is 2" thick which is about 50mm, so I'll look for bolts which are around 120mm.
Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
fasten-ating!!! thanks for your help
LOL
Thanks for the comment
Now that's, worth a few chuckles at least! The drilling was a Bit useful also.
How are you supposed to fit your wall frame to this,if the bolt is protruding
another mistake 3.25 b4 hammering the bolt in make sure the nut is flush to the top of the bolt which means no damage
You don't need to do that as the end of the threaded part is reduced in size- so you cannot damage the threads- unless you wind the nut to the end of the threads and hit the nut ;-)
I have a 30mm slab. How long should my anchor bolt be? Can I use a wall plug and screw as well as an alternative?
Спасибо, за этот лайфхак) супер
Добро пожаловать
Спасибо за комментарий
Excellent!
3.03 you should sweep b4 removing the drill from the hole
Dril a hole 3inch and a wall concrete
thanks for pointing that out. A VERY useful tip!
If the bolt got M6 labelled on it what’s the actual drill bit diameter for it? 6mm?
Yes, that is correct 👍
@@ultimatehandyman so M6 is 6mm, M8 is 8mm, M12 is 12mm and so on?
Yes ;-)
Hi,
I've used a 8mm x 85mm though bolt, similar to the one on the video. I drilled a 8mm hole with a 8mm drill bit, and hammer the bolt in (it was quite hard to push it in), but when tightening the bolt, it seems that it doesn't tight really hard. it seems that tightening torgue increased to some limit , and then stays the same.
I have a feeling that if I continue tightening the bolt will continue to move out gradually until it is fully removed. Is that expected?
It should grip unless the concrete is weak?
Sometimes the bolt does pull out of the hole slightly before the nut can be fully tightened.
Thank you! The wall is made of concrete blocks. So shouldn't be weak concrete. The is a layer of plaster, maybe around inch thick. the reason I was asking because I have 8 bolts to fix and all of them behave similarly. these are the measurements: the bolt lengths is 85 mm, the hole in concrete is about the same depth. I hammered the bolts until about 15mm left out of the wall. After tightening it is now around 25 mm out of the wall and 60 mm inside the wall, of which around 35mm-40mm is in concrete
hi chez are these thru bolts the same as rawl bolts or they 2 different things? i seem to be getting confused as the more i read there seems to be more and more different types of anchor fixings, am looking for an anchor bolt i can screw down flush with metal late not one that sticks out like these thru bolts seem to, cheers john.
+John Walker
Yes, you need the bolt type for that, normally called rawl bolts.
+Ultimate Handyman chez can you hammer these in so the nut is flush then tighten it or do you need to leave the small gap berfore you tighten up. cheers john
+John Walker
Yes, you can knock them in with the nut on the very end, then tighten.
But when you tighten it pulls the stud up through the nut and can stick up 10-20mm before the fixing is tight enough.
You could of course cut that bit off with an hack saw or angle grinder
+Ultimate Handyman thanks chez
+John Walker
You are welcome John ;-)
Can you help out with my question?
I'm attaching 3x3 wooden posts to side of house to hang reasonably heavy gates from. How deep do I need to get the bolts /screws into the wall? Obviously 3x3 is 75mm thick so a 100mm hex bolt will only be in wall by bout 30mm even if I counter sink whole on post first, I can't imagine 30mm being enough. Can't find any bolts longer than 100mm.
So I'm thinking 150mm Easy drive concrete screws from screwfix will be good.
The concrete screws will work in some bricks, but I'm not sure they will give a good enough fixing for gates.
Have you considered resin anchors- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Ultimate Handyman thanks.
Look harder they do come in sizes longer than 100mm
Can you use tapcons for brick stairs
Thanks for the video. When you say they shouldn't be used near the edges of concrete, in case of cracks ; do you think I'm safe to use it about 50mm from the edge? I'm thinking about anchoring a wooden beam to a concrete strip foundation 100 ish mm wide (width of a brick) by drilling and bolting into the middle of the concrete strip, hence , "50mm ish from edge".
50mm is a bit close to the edge, the expansion force of the fixing could cause the concrete to crack.
I'd use resin fixings, as there is no expansion force- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Thank you so much. You just saved me a massive headache, time and money. Very much appreciated!
You are welcome ;-)
Avoid anchors that when held in a fist slip out with minor force. The wedge should be sharp and not come out of the hold without a lot of force. Many of these Samson bolts are garbage as the wedge on them does not fasten well. ALSO epoxy hardens smooth and the bore holes are smooth. Guess what type of bolt pulls right out of the concrete? Read the book Earthquake Retrofitting from Earthquake Construction Service found on Amazon when you want to know which bolts work well and which ones don't.
Do they make a bolt that could be unscrewed in half essentially, leaving nothing sticking up above the surface of concrete? Then when you use it again, you just screw on the other half... Something that would connect kind of like the pieces of a gun cleaning rod.
Great video! Thank you
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Hiya. Will these work ok in sandstone or will it pop a peice out? Thanks
+Greg O'Brien
They will work in some sandstone, but are really designed for concrete. As long as these are not being used too close to an edge they should be okay.
Great thanks for that I'll give them a try
A little bit big what you drilling for oil
Long drill bits like that mean you don't have to bend down when drilling ;-)
Ultimate Handyman sorry I wasn't trying to be a smart-arse I'm very grateful for your expertise I need to fix my gate post back to the wall and this is a great video thanks very much
I didn't think that for a minute.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman short n informative. I like your videos. Love and respect from a pakistani builder
I had a few questions on using these before starting work on a deck frame. All questions answered. Cheers fella!
Great advice! Not what I came looking for but, Thank You!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
hy can these b used to attach wall brackets into brick? I am using a length of unistrut to brace against my back garden gate to make a solid secure retractable bar lock. the unistrut will slide in and out through the bracket.
Great video next please wear eye protection when drilling next time
I always do wear eye protection, did I miss it in this video?
no you never missed it out the video dosen't show your face LOL, GREAT VIDEO
LOL, thanks for the comment ;-)
I find the bolt goes in a tiny bit easier and grips slightly better if dust is blown out of the hole. A short length of flexible tube can be used to blow dust out of the hole before the bolt is inserted.
Finally, as shown in the video - there's no need to over tighten these bolts. If you do you risk pulling the bulb-end of the bolt through the jacket - and then the bolt and hole are useless.
Thanks for yet another great video!
That's a great comment, thanks
Great tutorial!! I'm planning to add some joists above the ceiling rafters in the loft to make a storage room, would you recommend these for attaching a wallplate to a stone wall? Thanks
Someone once said that these are only suitable for concrete, although I'm sure the ones I have bought in the past just said "masonry" on the packet, so it's best to check with the manufacturer. If you go to the makers website, it should tell you what substrates they can be used in.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks.
It is smart to keep the hole deeper so you can drive the anchor down into the hole
later if you want to so it doesn't harm anyone for the rest of its life.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Or just grind it 😂
What spanner is that please???
Its a Halfords professional ratchet spanner- ua-cam.com/video/Qd2LLH3UNmU/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment
would these types of bolts be good for fixing a gun safe to a wall that is Block (solid not hollow)
great video
what do you reccomend for Black cinder block, our toilet cistern was fastened to cinder block but the plugs keep working loose.
I'm not familiar with cinder blocks, are they made from concrete or something else?
Resin fixings tend to work on most substrates- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
Thanks for the comment 👍
I am using 8 / 10mm bolts and using 14mm drill bit
отличное видео. именно то что я искал чтобы прикрепить лаги к бетонному полу для настила деревянного пола
Спасибо за комментарий
Wow that drill bit will go through the earth! LOL 😆
Use a vacuum cleaner to suck the dust out of holes!!!
😂
Wonderful!
Thank you sooo much you video very very helpfull... 😊☕
Very nice video. One suggestion: Use a shop vacuum to remove concrete dust from the hole.
+johngo6283
Thanks for the comment ;-)
stick a small tube into the vacuum hose so that you can go deep into the hole.
Argument: That would be 100% waste of time. I'd say that the anchor holds just the same weight if you vacuum the dust or not.
I think you need a longer drill bit! Maybe another 2 more feet!
I could not find a longer one 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Would these anchors work for fixing a punching bag bracket to my house brick wall?
*****
Resin anchors would probably be a better choice as these are not recommended for bricks-
ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
We do try, beleive me! We offer training courses for our distributors and all the information is on our web site. More than happy to offer advise on anchor selection and installation.
the boss level drill bit
🤔
Here in Holland we call those anchors "clickers". Don't ask me why; we ram 'em into to concrete floors just like the rest of the world and they don't click..
I'm just revisiting this video for my next diy job :)
Would these kind of bolts be appropriate to attach a 2.4m piece of 2x4" wood vertically to the side of my house? I need to attach a new gate to the side of the house and want a vertical to hang it from. Also what diameter bolt would I need? would 6mm be strong enough, it's a fairly heavy wooden gate. Or would I be better off using masonary screws or some other fixing? Thanks
Can you this to add a rail on my concrete steps
It depends how close to the edge the fixing holes are. These should not be used close to the edge or they will break the concrete.
Resin fixings might be a better option- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment
Great video, thanks for info and tips. I want to use a couple of these to affix a timber post (for hanging a gate off) to the end of a breeze block wall. How far from the end of the wall do you think I'd be safe fitting these (to avoid cracking the breeze blocks)?
Wish Id watched this two hours ago..I made a right bollox of the job.. nuff said.
😱
Brilliant mate ! good old fashion common sense being used here.... nobody seems to think ahead like you have sir.
The "what happens after" I no longer need this anchor in it's current location? simple ! it's a dur-moment.... just, allow enough depth on the [pilot] hole during the original install, to address any future safety concerns.
Well done & very useful.
cheers