Every time I have a DIY job to do, I come to your channel and there's a video there waiting for me. This morning I had no idea what an anchor bolt was, now I know how to fix my fence post to concrete. Please keep these videos coming, they're a goldmine of information. Thanks again.
Good idea about using rustproof bolts. I wasn't sure whether the bolt would split the brick as it expanded, so you've put my mind at rest. The timber is 2" thick which is about 50mm, so I'll look for bolts which are around 120mm. Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
I find the bolt goes in a tiny bit easier and grips slightly better if dust is blown out of the hole. A short length of flexible tube can be used to blow dust out of the hole before the bolt is inserted. Finally, as shown in the video - there's no need to over tighten these bolts. If you do you risk pulling the bulb-end of the bolt through the jacket - and then the bolt and hole are useless. Thanks for yet another great video!
Brilliant mate ! good old fashion common sense being used here.... nobody seems to think ahead like you have sir. The "what happens after" I no longer need this anchor in it's current location? simple ! it's a dur-moment.... just, allow enough depth on the [pilot] hole during the original install, to address any future safety concerns. Well done & very useful. cheers
Thanks. It is smart to keep the hole deeper so you can drive the anchor down into the hole later if you want to so it doesn't harm anyone for the rest of its life.
It's the simple things that make all the difference. I'm a firm believer in construction etiquette if you will; so many of the headaches I've encountered in the renovation of our home could've been prevented with relatively minimal forethought on the part of those who made alterations to the structure in decades past. While i don't forsee this house being sold in my lifetime, when a day comes that this is someone's new home, they'll be able to identify exact locations of every inch of wire, audio cables, plumbing, etc by flipping to the corresponding page in the binder i keep. (I should probably put a contingency plan in place in case of my untimely passing, perhaps a "don't throw___ away because___" for my wife😂)
Don't forget to blow out your holes. A lot of times trash can get in the way of driving the bolts to the depth you want and you can't remove them to do it later!
I enjoyed watching your video also another name of that anchor is sleave anchor I used these all the time because they can hold tons of weight. I used them one time for fastening garage door tracks to concrete walls🤩😎👍
This is a cool video. Good basic info on the anchor bolt (thru-bolt as the English gentleman says) which, in my business (architectural graphics) is the most used and most unseen of hardware. I'll be passing it on.
the job itself isn't particularly difficult but it doesn't prevent it from being a great tutorial video! I watch it through and find it very useful and enjoyable( nice and clean, no talking shit). Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the video, now I can go back and fix the loose wall my contractor should of fixed. He replaced all the wood in the wall but didn't anchor it to the foundation. Thanks again
great video , but , if you can brush the dust etc out of the way with the drill bit still in the hole , saves all the dust going in the hole . great tip about the full depth hole plus a wee bit for knocking the bolt flush later.
great vid - quality little tip about an extra 1" in the hole, I'm away to use some of these to fit a hanging sign iron bracket to a wall. thanks again!!!!
***** Well, I'm done with the porch and I'm getting all kinds of compliments. The 2 posts against the brick wall are more solid than I ever imagined they'd be. Those bolts were a lifesaver.
Just bought from Bolton BandQ packs of M10 I was trying to find some with strength specifications as this one suitable for stair case going off picture on the "diall" pack but other m10s have picture of heavy gate.. hopefully a video of strength tests might be produced sometime.. just wondered what you thought. Thx for video. 👍
Something like this would need some serious equipment to do the testing. There are also a lot of variables depending on the intended use and substrate. The shear load of a M10 bolt is probably about 3 tonnes, but obviously the substrate will fail well before that. 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thx.. I done more since.. really awkward even going by book, drill 90mm hole and thing can't be hammered just tapped generally stuck 40mm down even tho hole clean and newish concrete mix.. any advice please..Thx in advance 😀
@@ultimatehandyman I have thanks.. I found that tightening nut,then tapping for a while..loosening allows it to go in 1mm.with tsp of hammer again... after hour or so had enough... I advise anyone to use a rawl bolt because most of the thread is 'covered by a long threaded shield' which can take a bit more hammering abuse with less chance of distortion..and tends to be a bolt head that is being hit.. Thx .. real world examples are hard task master.. 👍
+Efstathius Placidas I don't think so, although you can use Rawl bolts etc. which leave a threaded female insert in the hole, which you can then bolt to.
This is exactly what I needed. I am going to secure a costco gazebo to an exposed aggregate concr deck, and hopefully keep it from blowing away. Thanks man.
+George Gardinier Thanks George, we use these a lot on site for fixing down barriers etc. as most of the floors are concrete. I'm glad the videos help ;-) Thanks for the comments
I'm not familiar with cinder blocks, are they made from concrete or something else? Resin fixings tend to work on most substrates- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm not sure if they would hold properly if you did that. I've used Resin anchors in the past but never set studs into wet concrete- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment 👍
Would they be suitable for use where you may remove the nut multiple times? I'm looking to fix some gym equipment to my garage floor which would have to go in the middle of the floorspace. I'd like to be able to secure it and then remove it when required for whatever reason and then return back to the original spot. Studs sticking out of the floor would not be an issue.
Try pulling it outwards, then wind the nut in. Then grab the end using mole grips/vice grips and tighten the nut. That should make the fixing expand and grab.
@@3mn422 Is the hole the correct size? Normally they will bite and tighten up, but if it won't you could try another one (if you can get it out). Perhaps Resin anchors will be better- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
If its in a floor, I *always* drill straight trough. If the anchor gets screwed up (buggered threads, spins in the hole, etc.) you can pound it down and install a new one on top of it. Hitting rebar is always fun:)
I use a small length of plastic hose from a washing machine, (flexible), and about twelve to twenty inches long to blow dust from inside the hole...... Any length of tube or pipe..... even a drinking straw will do if necessary.......and it can be rigid, (say a piece of copper pipe).......or flexible. The advantage of a flexible bit of pipe is that you don't always need to be on an exact level with the drilled hole to use it.........so if working on a ladder, or at any height on a wall, for example, you can be slightly above or below the hole, or to one side when you blow..... If you angle the tube or pipe slightly at the surface of the hole and dust inside it will come out much easier than if you are 'dead straight on' to the hole. Most important point to remember is that at THE MOMENT YOU BLOW into the tube or pipe, CLOSE YOUR EYES...... It's only a momentary 'puff' or 'blow'............BUT........any debris or dust in the hole will come out at some speed..... Hence the slight angle of the pipe or tube at the surface of the hole..........it will expel it more easily.......and hence the need to momentarily CLOSE YOUR EYES.... James Hennighan Yorkshire, England P.S. A flexible piece of pipe stores more easily in a tool box or bag........
hy can these b used to attach wall brackets into brick? I am using a length of unistrut to brace against my back garden gate to make a solid secure retractable bar lock. the unistrut will slide in and out through the bracket.
It depends how big the holes are. If you have for example a M12 hole and you use a M12 anchor, it will not go through the hole, you either have to drill the hole larger in the plate, or drill the holes in the concrete, knock in the anchors and then fit the plate over the anchor (the base of the anchor is wider than the threaded part)
Good video...but. when clearing the mound of dust after drilling the hole, use a vacuum instead of a dust pan. Use the vac to clear the mound of dust, then position the vac hose over the drilled hole to clear debris from the hole for a better, more secure fit for the bolt.
It depends, there are just so many variables, such as what the structure is made from, the weight, the amount of fixing points, the potential wind etc. We would often use eight M12 by 100mm anchors just to hold down a conveyor unit, where the conveyor is heavy and it's inside- so no wind etc.
Also if you don't mind,I have hitachi sds plus drill,but collar only seems to take around 12 mm diameter bits,I have 200 mm x 18 mm bits,to wide, what do I need?
@@philhode5104 All SDS drill bits are the same size (where they fit in the chuck). SDS and SDS plus are about 10mm, where they enter the chuck. SDS max is about 18mm where it enters the chuck, it sounds like you have SDS max bits! You either need a SDS max drill (very expensive) or a SDS drill bit
@@ultimatehandyman thank you,yes I realised what has happened, I ordered bit from UK drills,I received max bit,was puzzled why it didn't fit,now ordered sds plus bit,yes sds max expensive 400 plus !!!
Hopefully you still monitor these questions! I am trying to mount a ledger board on a cinder block wall, so the anchor bolts will fall into the cavity behind the holes I drilled. Also - the expanding flange doesn't expand. perhaps the cinder block hole is slightly too big or the cinder block material is too easily broken away inside the hole making it too loose?
Hi, I am not familiar with cinder blocks I'm afraid (we don't use them in the UK). I'm not sure what people use when fixing into cinder blocks, perhaps resin would be a better option- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
that through bolt is pretty much what im looking for as i have a sqaure tube bracket approx less than a half inch and using the screw bolt that came with it means im losing pretty much half the length of the screw due to thickness of brackett from surface of the brick wall the hole diameter is 10mm would the throughbolt be a more secure suitable fixture into brick?
Apparently these are not recommended for use in brick- only concrete. But I have used them in brick in the past and they have worked fine. I guess it depends on the type of brick!
Can you use these going sideways into a granite gable? Does it matter whether they go into an actual lump of granite or end up through the cement between? Thanks
As long as the concrete is in good condition and you are not drilling close to the edge of the concrete, these will be fine. If you are close to the edge, I would use resin fixings ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman havent done the concrete as yet :) just want it to be as sturdy,strong as possible as dont want to put the timber post in the concrete itself, so using a bracket. so use these for the base, and for the ledger on brick right? (lean to pergola) . been on a watching your vids binge lately ..
For the ledger, I would use resin fixings, as some times the through-bolts don't work too well on some types of bricks. Through bolts will be fine in the base- as long as they are not used close to the edge of the concrete, or the expansion can crack it. Thanks for watching the videos 👍🏻
@@ultimatehandyman cheers mate. so much conflicting confusing advice out there. best to over do it tho rather than regret it afterwards right. u speak a lot of sense in your vids tho. so thanks again :)
I always do the same thing I’ve use the right tools and the right drill bits and I’m tired to have a problem tightening, when i turn the nut the all thing turns and the bolt can never be tight. What’s the secret ??
If the drilled hole is slightly too big the anchor can rotate (sometimes this can happen if the drill bit is slightly bent). To fix this problem, put the nut and washer on the anchor, then use a claw hammer or crow bar under the nut and lever the anchor up, as the anchor moves up, it should expand on the end and then grip the hole. Or you can put the nut and washer one, then grip the very top using mole grips/Vice grips and tighten the nut. Thanks for the comment 👍
Anything buried in the concrete should be much deeper than the depth of a normal anchor. The site I work on allows you to drill in any concrete floor up to 100mm deep without having to get a excavation permit or scan the area using a Digicat. Thanks for the comment
hi, just wondering what anchor bolt to use to fix the post to a brick fence since my wooden backyard gate is already damage I build another one. the old owner of the house used the concrete nail which is not very good at all that damaged the brick as well. thanks!
So that if you remove the item at a later date, you can just knock the anchor flush with the surface, otherwise you have to cut it off using a grinder etc.
Hi just wondering if anyone could help me I’m looking to put a floor over my stairs and need to build the joists would this be strong enough to hold the weight of a walk in wardrobe? Any help would be really great full
These are one of the strongest fixings you can get for solid walls, so they should be able to take the weight, providing you are not fixing into aerated concrete etc. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@Th3WorstPlays Resin anchors might be a better solution, they work well in bricks as the resin will fill any voids- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
oh, thanks! if i hadn't seen this, i would've probably tried to eventually remove them by trying to saw them off, which would've taken AGES. well this was straight-forward!
Would an expansion bolt be strong enough for this project? I have a car(s) that I need to get in my garage the current one has a blown head gasket but is un-driveable. I don't always have extra hands to help push it in. I wanted an anchor point in a concrete foundation to winch off of or to use with a come along to pull it into the garage ( mild 5-10 degree incline). I have a good Dewalt Hammerdrill (13mm) Is this the best method for using as anchor point to attach a winch? Thanks!
Do they make a bolt that could be unscrewed in half essentially, leaving nothing sticking up above the surface of concrete? Then when you use it again, you just screw on the other half... Something that would connect kind of like the pieces of a gun cleaning rod.
That is why I personally prefer shield anchor bolts. The bolt is removed if you decide to remove something, so no bolt left sticking out of the ground to leave a trip hazard. I just used some shield anchor bolts to put up a door canopy that I made for a customer. So if they do ever move they can take it with them and no ugly bolts sticking out of the wall.
agreed, shield anchor bolts are preferable. But in addition, some 9+years after this video was posted there are now better things on the market for fixing into concrete, the obvious being concrete screws!
Shield anchors. Are great. But have to be split then assemble around the work piece: the through bolt shown here. Can be fitted and secured to fix timber or steel directly without splitting the fixing. Like for example a park bench with holes for a fixing. Or re securing existing work. With our removal straight through. Shield anchors are also tricky to fit. And can come loose and need re tightening:
Yes, but if the drill does not have hammer action it will be really difficult. These will be fine for fixing a shed down to a concrete base. Thanks for the comment
Hi, I've used a 8mm x 85mm though bolt, similar to the one on the video. I drilled a 8mm hole with a 8mm drill bit, and hammer the bolt in (it was quite hard to push it in), but when tightening the bolt, it seems that it doesn't tight really hard. it seems that tightening torgue increased to some limit , and then stays the same. I have a feeling that if I continue tightening the bolt will continue to move out gradually until it is fully removed. Is that expected?
Thank you! The wall is made of concrete blocks. So shouldn't be weak concrete. The is a layer of plaster, maybe around inch thick. the reason I was asking because I have 8 bolts to fix and all of them behave similarly. these are the measurements: the bolt lengths is 85 mm, the hole in concrete is about the same depth. I hammered the bolts until about 15mm left out of the wall. After tightening it is now around 25 mm out of the wall and 60 mm inside the wall, of which around 35mm-40mm is in concrete
+naveed “NEO76” khan For close to the edge fixings I would use resin anchors as they do not expand (which can break the concrete at the edges) ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Hi, These are probably your best option for concrete walls as they hold extremely well in concrete. You obviously do not need anchors as large as this for kitchen cabinets, we often use M6 (1/4 inch) or M8 (5/16 inch) diameter anchors for small jobs at work. It does depend on the type of cabinet hangers that you are using, in the UK if I was fixing to a solid wall I would just use wall plugs and screws to hold the hangers to the wall. www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/fasteners-fixings/wall-plugs
I need to fix several 75 x 75 x 1800 fence posts to a single brick width wall so I can extend fence panelling above the wall. Would concrete anchors be too much or would 150 masonry screws do the job? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Is the an application to enable you to 'glue' a large threaded (M20, M24) tube into the concrete so and object can be secured to the deck and removed when finished? leaving a flush thread which can be capped. Thus you can bolt and object down and then remove it when you have finished and repeat?
I had another look around and found the Hilti make a Thread sleeve. www.hilti.co.uk/anchor-systems/anchor-rods-and-elements/258019#features-applications
The one in this video is Halfords professional - ua-cam.com/video/Qd2LLH3UNmU/v-deo.html But I much prefer the Bacho ones, as I use these all the time on site- ua-cam.com/video/andUtRBG-Q8/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment 👍
It depends how close to the edge the fixing holes are. These should not be used close to the edge or they will break the concrete. Resin fixings might be a better option- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment
I want to use these to attach a ledger for decking purposes. How deep do I need to drill into the brick? I know the brick is a solid engineering brick but not sure if I drill too far where will it end up the other end? I understand the bolt bites the other end when it's tightened but if I drill too far what does it bite into?
Bricks are about 4 inches deep, so if you drill about 3 inches you should be fine. Obviously, you do not want to go through the brick or it won't tighten fully and expand as it should. Here is a ledger that I installed a few years back- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/decking/fixing-a-ledger
On that subject. Some say it's not good to put a ledger level or within 150mm of the DPC. I have used Thompson sealer on the brick and will use washers to leave a slight gap. Your thoughts please
I've always set the ledger level, but ensure that the deck is sloping away from the property. It's best if you can get the deck below the DPC but this is not possible most of the time. P.S. make sure you use rust proof washers or you might end up with rust stains etc.
Would a mechanically galvanized expansion bolt be the best for a deck ledger attached to concrete? If not, what type of bolt would you recommend for usage where moisture will be? I checked my code, it was useless.
Every time I have a DIY job to do, I come to your channel and there's a video there waiting for me. This morning I had no idea what an anchor bolt was, now I know how to fix my fence post to concrete. Please keep these videos coming, they're a goldmine of information. Thanks again.
Best video about anchor bolts. I've been looking at several and yours is the only that explains its use and removal. Thank you.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Good idea about using rustproof bolts. I wasn't sure whether the bolt would split the brick as it expanded, so you've put my mind at rest. The timber is 2" thick which is about 50mm, so I'll look for bolts which are around 120mm.
Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
Brother posted the video when I was in school,
helped me today lots 👍
A simple and effective way of explaining things thank you
Thanks for the comment
I find the bolt goes in a tiny bit easier and grips slightly better if dust is blown out of the hole. A short length of flexible tube can be used to blow dust out of the hole before the bolt is inserted.
Finally, as shown in the video - there's no need to over tighten these bolts. If you do you risk pulling the bulb-end of the bolt through the jacket - and then the bolt and hole are useless.
Thanks for yet another great video!
That's a great comment, thanks
I had a few questions on using these before starting work on a deck frame. All questions answered. Cheers fella!
Brilliant mate ! good old fashion common sense being used here.... nobody seems to think ahead like you have sir.
The "what happens after" I no longer need this anchor in it's current location? simple ! it's a dur-moment.... just, allow enough depth on the [pilot] hole during the original install, to address any future safety concerns.
Well done & very useful.
cheers
Probably one the best videos on this I've seen. Great job!
Thanks for the comment
Your easily pleased
Thanks.
It is smart to keep the hole deeper so you can drive the anchor down into the hole
later if you want to so it doesn't harm anyone for the rest of its life.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Or just grind it 😂
It's the simple things that make all the difference. I'm a firm believer in construction etiquette if you will; so many of the headaches I've encountered in the renovation of our home could've been prevented with relatively minimal forethought on the part of those who made alterations to the structure in decades past.
While i don't forsee this house being sold in my lifetime, when a day comes that this is someone's new home, they'll be able to identify exact locations of every inch of wire, audio cables, plumbing, etc by flipping to the corresponding page in the binder i keep. (I should probably put a contingency plan in place in case of my untimely passing, perhaps a "don't throw___ away because___" for my wife😂)
Just the information I needed, well explained and thanks for taking the time to post it
Robert Berry
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Great video. Excellent tip to drill the depth out more than needed for an easy solution if you want to remove the bolt. Well done. Cheers and thanks.
You are welcome.
Thank you for the comment ;-)
Ultimate Handyman look at Greg German on UA-cam for how to remove through bolt's from rock!
Brilliant, thanks. I'm not a handyman, so this is very helpful. Hanging a heavy side gate soon and now I have a good idea how to do it. Thanks 👍
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Don't forget to blow out your holes. A lot of times trash can get in the way of driving the bolts to the depth you want and you can't remove them to do it later!
Most useful advise here guys.
Yes important to blow your holes clean
I enjoyed watching your video also another name of that anchor is sleave anchor I used these all the time because they can hold tons of weight. I used them one time for fastening garage door tracks to concrete walls🤩😎👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is a cool video. Good basic info on the anchor bolt (thru-bolt as the English gentleman says) which, in my business (architectural graphics) is the most used and most unseen of hardware. I'll be passing it on.
Bob Loza
Thanks Bob ;-)
the job itself isn't particularly difficult but it doesn't prevent it from being a great tutorial video! I watch it through and find it very useful and enjoyable( nice and clean, no talking shit). Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the video, now I can go back and fix the loose wall my contractor should of fixed. He replaced all the wood in the wall but didn't anchor it to the foundation. Thanks again
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
great video , but , if you can brush the dust etc out of the way with the drill bit still in the hole , saves all the dust going in the hole .
great tip about the full depth hole plus a wee bit for knocking the bolt flush later.
Thanks for the comment 👍
112 dislikes? Why? Top video and explains to the point and helpful. Thanks for posting.
It does not matter how good a video is, someone will always dislike it ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Well made video and explanation on how to......thanks Ultimate Handyman
Thanks for the comment 👍
great vid - quality little tip about an extra 1" in the hole, I'm away to use some of these to fit a hanging sign iron bracket to a wall. thanks again!!!!
really simple straight to the point great video!
Thanks for the comment
I'm getting ready to build a new wooden front porch. I needed to know how to bolt 2 posts to the brick wall. I'm going to use this method. Thanks!
*****
You are welcome, thanks for the comment
***** Well, I'm done with the porch and I'm getting all kinds of compliments. The 2 posts against the brick wall are more solid than I ever imagined they'd be. Those bolts were a lifesaver.
*****
Good stuff ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Nice video, great tip about avoiding possible trips. Thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just bought from Bolton BandQ packs of M10 I was trying to find some with strength specifications as this one suitable for stair case going off picture on the "diall" pack but other m10s have picture of heavy gate.. hopefully a video of strength tests might be produced sometime.. just wondered what you thought. Thx for video. 👍
Something like this would need some serious equipment to do the testing. There are also a lot of variables depending on the intended use and substrate. The shear load of a M10 bolt is probably about 3 tonnes, but obviously the substrate will fail well before that. 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thx.. I done more since.. really awkward even going by book, drill 90mm hole and thing can't be hammered just tapped generally stuck 40mm down even tho hole clean and newish concrete mix.. any advice please..Thx in advance 😀
They often are difficult to knock in, but should go in as deep as the depth of the hole. Have you tried using a vacuum to clean out the hole?
@@ultimatehandyman
I have thanks.. I found that tightening nut,then tapping for a while..loosening allows it to go in 1mm.with tsp of hammer again... after hour or so had enough...
I advise anyone to use a rawl bolt because most of the thread is 'covered by a long threaded shield' which can take a bit more hammering abuse with less chance of distortion..and tends to be a bolt head that is being hit.. Thx .. real world examples are hard task master.. 👍
+Efstathius Placidas
I don't think so, although you can use Rawl bolts etc. which leave a threaded female insert in the hole, which you can then bolt to.
Can you use this method for securing a post onto a paving slab? Do you have a video ? Thanks
You can, but I don't have a video, sorry.
Just make sure you don't put them close to the edge, or the expansion force can crack the slabs.
@@ultimatehandyman thanks for your response and much appreciate your videos.
This is exactly what I needed. I am going to secure a costco gazebo to an exposed aggregate concr deck, and hopefully keep it from blowing away. Thanks man.
+John Bullock You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for taking the time to demo this.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
i was not a viewer in 2011 and you showed me more of what this fastener can do
+George Gardinier
Thanks George, we use these a lot on site for fixing down barriers etc. as most of the floors are concrete.
I'm glad the videos help ;-)
Thanks for the comments
what do you reccomend for Black cinder block, our toilet cistern was fastened to cinder block but the plugs keep working loose.
I'm not familiar with cinder blocks, are they made from concrete or something else?
Resin fixings tend to work on most substrates- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
Thanks for the comment 👍
Would you vrecomend these for stud walls for shed,thay will be the exterior walls,was thinkin of threaded bolts ,stick them in while concrete setting
I'm not sure if they would hold properly if you did that. I've used Resin anchors in the past but never set studs into wet concrete- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you very much for the description and example...
Rich
wardl895 You are welcome Rich,
Thanks for the comment
Very nice video. One suggestion: Use a shop vacuum to remove concrete dust from the hole.
+johngo6283
Thanks for the comment ;-)
stick a small tube into the vacuum hose so that you can go deep into the hole.
Argument: That would be 100% waste of time. I'd say that the anchor holds just the same weight if you vacuum the dust or not.
Perfect. I always thought that the hole had to match the length exactly. That is a great tip.
Would they be suitable for use where you may remove the nut multiple times? I'm looking to fix some gym equipment to my garage floor which would have to go in the middle of the floorspace. I'd like to be able to secure it and then remove it when required for whatever reason and then return back to the original spot.
Studs sticking out of the floor would not be an issue.
Yes, sure. We had some equipment on site that needed to be removed and re-fitted. As long as the sticking out studs are not a problem 👍
@@ultimatehandyman brilliant thanks. Even if it was multiple times a week?
@@BillyM213 Yes, it will be fine
(Sorry for the late reply, UA-cam comments has been playing up AGAIN, So I have just seen this)
Can you use a through bolt on ceiling to hold shelves in a garage?
If the ceiling is concrete you can!
If the bolt got M6 labelled on it what’s the actual drill bit diameter for it? 6mm?
Yes, that is correct 👍
@@ultimatehandyman so M6 is 6mm, M8 is 8mm, M12 is 12mm and so on?
Yes ;-)
mine was loose, i cant tighten, im using it to my pull ups . what should i do?
Try pulling it outwards, then wind the nut in.
Then grab the end using mole grips/vice grips and tighten the nut.
That should make the fixing expand and grab.
@@ultimatehandyman yeah i already try it, but when i pull again the 2 bolt was loose again, can i fix my anchors? or should i buy a new one?
@@3mn422 Is the hole the correct size?
Normally they will bite and tighten up, but if it won't you could try another one (if you can get it out).
Perhaps Resin anchors will be better- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
Useful video. Thank you so much. Now I have a better idea of what I got to do for my home project. Thumb up to you
Thank you ;-)
I have a 30mm slab. How long should my anchor bolt be? Can I use a wall plug and screw as well as an alternative?
If its in a floor, I *always* drill straight trough. If the anchor gets screwed up (buggered threads, spins in the hole, etc.) you can pound it down and install a new one on top of it. Hitting rebar is always fun:)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for taking the time to post this video, it was a great help.
I use a small length of plastic hose from a washing machine, (flexible), and about twelve to twenty inches long to blow dust from inside the hole......
Any length of tube or pipe..... even a drinking straw will do if necessary.......and it can be rigid, (say a piece of copper pipe).......or flexible.
The advantage of a flexible bit of pipe is that you don't always need to be on an exact level with the drilled hole to use it.........so if working on a ladder, or at any height on a wall, for example, you can be slightly above or below the hole, or to one side when you blow.....
If you angle the tube or pipe slightly at the surface of the hole and dust inside it will come out much easier than if you are 'dead straight on' to the hole.
Most important point to remember is that at THE MOMENT YOU BLOW into the tube or pipe, CLOSE YOUR EYES......
It's only a momentary 'puff' or 'blow'............BUT........any debris or dust in the hole will come out at some speed.....
Hence the slight angle of the pipe or tube at the surface of the hole..........it will expel it more easily.......and hence the need to momentarily CLOSE YOUR EYES....
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
P.S. A flexible piece of pipe stores more easily in a tool box or bag........
Thanks for the detailed comment ;-)
Outstanding explanation. Thank you for your time to post this video for us all to learn!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Great advice! Not what I came looking for but, Thank You!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks Great point about drilling deeper I didn't do that on a wall for bike rack Now they're sticking out
Glad to help 👍
hy can these b used to attach wall brackets into brick? I am using a length of unistrut to brace against my back garden gate to make a solid secure retractable bar lock. the unistrut will slide in and out through the bracket.
Will these fit through a hole in a bolt down plate for a fence post ?
It depends how big the holes are. If you have for example a M12 hole and you use a M12 anchor, it will not go through the hole, you either have to drill the hole larger in the plate, or drill the holes in the concrete, knock in the anchors and then fit the plate over the anchor (the base of the anchor is wider than the threaded part)
Good video...but. when clearing the mound of dust after drilling the hole, use a vacuum instead of a dust pan. Use the vac to clear the mound of dust, then position the vac hose over the drilled hole to clear debris from the hole for a better, more secure fit for the bolt.
👍
What is the size of drill bit you have use for M12 anchor
12mm
Thanks for the comment 👍
Wow -- fantastic video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the comment
Would these anchors work for fixing a punching bag bracket to my house brick wall?
*****
Resin anchors would probably be a better choice as these are not recommended for bricks-
ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
I have just built a 20ftx12 workshop I need to fix to concrete,I have 100 mm 10mm concrete bolts,do you think he's are adequate
It depends, there are just so many variables, such as what the structure is made from, the weight, the amount of fixing points, the potential wind etc.
We would often use eight M12 by 100mm anchors just to hold down a conveyor unit, where the conveyor is heavy and it's inside- so no wind etc.
Also if you don't mind,I have hitachi sds plus drill,but collar only seems to take around 12 mm diameter bits,I have 200 mm x 18 mm bits,to wide, what do I need?
@@philhode5104 All SDS drill bits are the same size (where they fit in the chuck).
SDS and SDS plus are about 10mm, where they enter the chuck.
SDS max is about 18mm where it enters the chuck, it sounds like you have SDS max bits!
You either need a SDS max drill (very expensive) or a SDS drill bit
@@ultimatehandyman thank you,yes I realised what has happened, I ordered bit from UK drills,I received max bit,was puzzled why it didn't fit,now ordered sds plus bit,yes sds max expensive 400 plus !!!
Hopefully you still monitor these questions! I am trying to mount a ledger board on a cinder block wall, so the anchor bolts will fall into the cavity behind the holes I drilled. Also - the expanding flange doesn't expand. perhaps the cinder block hole is slightly too big or the cinder block material is too easily broken away inside the hole making it too loose?
Hi, I am not familiar with cinder blocks I'm afraid (we don't use them in the UK).
I'm not sure what people use when fixing into cinder blocks, perhaps resin would be a better option- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
that through bolt is pretty much what im looking for as i have a sqaure tube bracket approx less than a half inch and using the screw bolt that came with it means im losing pretty much half the length of the screw due to thickness of brackett from surface of the brick wall the hole diameter is 10mm would the throughbolt be a more secure suitable fixture into brick?
Apparently these are not recommended for use in brick- only concrete. But I have used them in brick in the past and they have worked fine. I guess it depends on the type of brick!
Can you use these going sideways into a granite gable? Does it matter whether they go into an actual lump of granite or end up through the cement between? Thanks
realise this is 7 years old. but putting bases in concrete for a pergola. so use these, or resin ones, or both?
As long as the concrete is in good condition and you are not drilling close to the edge of the concrete, these will be fine.
If you are close to the edge, I would use resin fixings ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman havent done the concrete as yet :) just want it to be as sturdy,strong as possible as dont want to put the timber post in the concrete itself, so using a bracket. so use these for the base, and for the ledger on brick right? (lean to pergola) . been on a watching your vids binge lately ..
For the ledger, I would use resin fixings, as some times the through-bolts don't work too well on some types of bricks.
Through bolts will be fine in the base- as long as they are not used close to the edge of the concrete, or the expansion can crack it.
Thanks for watching the videos 👍🏻
@@ultimatehandyman cheers mate. so much conflicting confusing advice out there. best to over do it tho rather than regret it afterwards right. u speak a lot of sense in your vids tho. so thanks again :)
You are welcome
Thanks for the comments 👍🏻
I always do the same thing I’ve use the right tools and the right drill bits and I’m tired to have a problem tightening, when i turn the nut the all thing turns and the bolt can never be tight. What’s the secret ??
If the drilled hole is slightly too big the anchor can rotate (sometimes this can happen if the drill bit is slightly bent).
To fix this problem, put the nut and washer on the anchor, then use a claw hammer or crow bar under the nut and lever the anchor up, as the anchor moves up, it should expand on the end and then grip the hole.
Or you can put the nut and washer one, then grip the very top using mole grips/Vice grips and tighten the nut.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great, but where was the stage of checking what was under the concrete that you mentioned?
Anything buried in the concrete should be much deeper than the depth of a normal anchor. The site I work on allows you to drill in any concrete floor up to 100mm deep without having to get a excavation permit or scan the area using a Digicat.
Thanks for the comment
hi, just wondering what anchor bolt to use to fix the post to a brick fence since my wooden backyard gate is already damage I build another one. the old owner of the house used the concrete nail which is not very good at all that damaged the brick as well. thanks!
Is 3 inches away from the edge of the concrete safe to install this?
Resin fixings might be best- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
Why the depth of holes same as length bolt?
So that if you remove the item at a later date, you can just knock the anchor flush with the surface, otherwise you have to cut it off using a grinder etc.
When using out door in concrete exposed to the moisture water , so you need to use stainless steel screws ?
Yes, you can get stainless steel ones for external work, or some have a rust proof coating too.
Thanks for the comment 👍
hi pal those helicoils worked perfect !!the moped man rides again 😃😃😃😃😃thank youuùuu!!!!
Good stuff ;-)
Is it the same procedure if I was to put shelves onto a concrete wall in my garage?
Excellent video, thanks so much.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
what are the options for fixing heavy duty joist hangers flush to concrete surface?
whats the best screw to use for fixing a 3 by 2 onto a concrete wall to fix a gate onto it.
Hi just wondering if anyone could help me I’m looking to put a floor over my stairs and need to build the joists would this be strong enough to hold the weight of a walk in wardrobe? Any help would be really great full
These are one of the strongest fixings you can get for solid walls, so they should be able to take the weight, providing you are not fixing into aerated concrete etc.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thank you for the reply! The fixing would be going in to bricks so I’m worried of blowing the bricks out
@@Th3WorstPlays Resin anchors might be a better solution, they work well in bricks as the resin will fill any voids-
ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html&t
oh, thanks! if i hadn't seen this, i would've probably tried to eventually remove them by trying to saw them off, which would've taken AGES. well this was straight-forward!
what about putting these in dence block
These should work fine in dense concrete blocks
Thanks for the comment 👍
Would an expansion bolt be strong enough for this project? I have a car(s) that I need to get in my garage the current one has a blown head gasket but is un-driveable. I don't always have extra hands to help push it in. I wanted an anchor point in a concrete foundation to winch off of or to use with a come along to pull it into the garage ( mild 5-10 degree incline). I have a good Dewalt Hammerdrill (13mm) Is this the best method for using as anchor point to attach a winch? Thanks!
Do they make a bolt that could be unscrewed in half essentially, leaving nothing sticking up above the surface of concrete? Then when you use it again, you just screw on the other half... Something that would connect kind of like the pieces of a gun cleaning rod.
That is why I personally prefer shield anchor bolts. The bolt is removed if you decide to remove something, so no bolt left sticking out of the ground to leave a trip hazard. I just used some shield anchor bolts to put up a door canopy that I made for a customer. So if they do ever move they can take it with them and no ugly bolts sticking out of the wall.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
agreed, shield anchor bolts are preferable.
But in addition, some 9+years after this video was posted there are now better things on the market for fixing into concrete, the obvious being concrete screws!
Shield anchors. Are great. But have to be split then assemble around the work piece: the through bolt shown here. Can be fitted and secured to fix timber or steel directly without splitting the fixing. Like for example a park bench with holes for a fixing. Or re securing existing work. With our removal straight through. Shield anchors are also tricky to fit. And can come loose and need re tightening:
What’s the biggest size of these bolts I can get?
Not sure, I think there are some on site that are at least M24 or perhaps M30 in diameter, they come in various lengths.
Thanks for the comment
Good video - thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for the comment
can it be used on concrete column?
Not sure, I would be careful drilling into any column, as it could be structural.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Yet another video that will come in handy in the near future
Thanks for the comment
Can I drill the hole with just a dig corded hammer drill and would thou reocomend this for fixing a shed to the floor thanks
Yes, but if the drill does not have hammer action it will be really difficult.
These will be fine for fixing a shed down to a concrete base.
Thanks for the comment
Hi,
I've used a 8mm x 85mm though bolt, similar to the one on the video. I drilled a 8mm hole with a 8mm drill bit, and hammer the bolt in (it was quite hard to push it in), but when tightening the bolt, it seems that it doesn't tight really hard. it seems that tightening torgue increased to some limit , and then stays the same.
I have a feeling that if I continue tightening the bolt will continue to move out gradually until it is fully removed. Is that expected?
It should grip unless the concrete is weak?
Sometimes the bolt does pull out of the hole slightly before the nut can be fully tightened.
Thank you! The wall is made of concrete blocks. So shouldn't be weak concrete. The is a layer of plaster, maybe around inch thick. the reason I was asking because I have 8 bolts to fix and all of them behave similarly. these are the measurements: the bolt lengths is 85 mm, the hole in concrete is about the same depth. I hammered the bolts until about 15mm left out of the wall. After tightening it is now around 25 mm out of the wall and 60 mm inside the wall, of which around 35mm-40mm is in concrete
Great video! Thank you
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
what kind of bolt would I use to secure my shed to the edge of my shed Base?
+naveed “NEO76” khan
For close to the edge fixings I would use resin anchors as they do not expand (which can break the concrete at the edges)
ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Hi, I want to use these anchors to mount kitchen cabinets. The walls are concrete. Is there a better method for this?
Hi, These are probably your best option for concrete walls as they hold extremely well in concrete.
You obviously do not need anchors as large as this for kitchen cabinets, we often use M6 (1/4 inch) or M8 (5/16 inch) diameter anchors for small jobs at work.
It does depend on the type of cabinet hangers that you are using, in the UK if I was fixing to a solid wall I would just use wall plugs and screws to hold the hangers to the wall.
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/fasteners-fixings/wall-plugs
I need to fix several 75 x 75 x 1800 fence posts to a single brick width wall so I can extend fence panelling above the wall. Would concrete anchors be too much or would 150 masonry screws do the job?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Thanks! Got a new season subscriber!
Awesome! Thank you! 👍
Is the an application to enable you to 'glue' a large threaded (M20, M24) tube into the concrete so and object can be secured to the deck and removed when finished? leaving a flush thread which can be capped. Thus you can bolt and object down and then remove it when you have finished and repeat?
I'm not sure if that exists as a commercial product, but it's a really good idea.
I had another look around and found the Hilti make a Thread sleeve. www.hilti.co.uk/anchor-systems/anchor-rods-and-elements/258019#features-applications
I've bookmarked that page for the future ;-)
would u use these in a moped alloy cylinder head
Not a chance. These are for masonry only!
You my friend, are a life saver!!! Thanks so much!!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thank´s man, it was very useful. Regards from Colombia
Could I use these in sandstone or is there something more suitable? It's to fix bolt down brackets for fence posts on a low wall.
Can you use tapcons for brick stairs
Thank u.. Iam working as store keeper and I had benefit out of this
You are welcome ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman how can we get to talk with u
I'm very busy at the moment. What do you wish to talk about?
+Ultimate Handyman all kind of materials.. But not now hh
+Ultimate Handyman when I find something I don't know I will ask you
Is the bit always a little wider than the bolt?
Great video clear instructions
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
What brand of ratchet spanner do you have? On the look out for a quality set.
The one in this video is Halfords professional - ua-cam.com/video/Qd2LLH3UNmU/v-deo.html
But I much prefer the Bacho ones, as I use these all the time on site- ua-cam.com/video/andUtRBG-Q8/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman cheers, bachos' look good. Thanks.
Can you this to add a rail on my concrete steps
It depends how close to the edge the fixing holes are. These should not be used close to the edge or they will break the concrete.
Resin fixings might be a better option- ua-cam.com/video/oUJPjJsdl0c/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment
Thx. Enjoy your videos
I’m glad you like the videos
Thanks for the comment 👍
I want to use these to attach a ledger for decking purposes. How deep do I need to drill into the brick? I know the brick is a solid engineering brick but not sure if I drill too far where will it end up the other end? I understand the bolt bites the other end when it's tightened but if I drill too far what does it bite into?
Bricks are about 4 inches deep, so if you drill about 3 inches you should be fine.
Obviously, you do not want to go through the brick or it won't tighten fully and expand as it should.
Here is a ledger that I installed a few years back-
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/decking/fixing-a-ledger
On that subject. Some say it's not good to put a ledger level or within 150mm of the DPC. I have used Thompson sealer on the brick and will use washers to leave a slight gap. Your thoughts please
I've always set the ledger level, but ensure that the deck is sloping away from the property.
It's best if you can get the deck below the DPC but this is not possible most of the time.
P.S. make sure you use rust proof washers or you might end up with rust stains etc.
Would a mechanically galvanized expansion bolt be the best for a deck ledger attached to concrete? If not, what type of bolt would you recommend for usage where moisture will be? I checked my code, it was useless.
I would have thought that a galvanised or stainless steel concrete anchor would be fine.