Really like this guy and how he speaks and explains things. After watching this film 100 times I've just finished trying it on my layout following his instructions word by word. I'm praying I've done it right.
Take a tip from the prototype rail engineers and “tamp” your ballast while its dry. I used one of my wife’s vibrators, a Eroscillator because it vibrated at a high frequency. The vibration settles the ballast into place nice and evenly then you just need to trim up the sides
Anyone thinking of trying what Nik Morris suggest tread carefully. I followed his example to the letter and my ballast shook off the train table :(, I suggest putting it on too a lower setting. Oh another piece of advice, if your layout is in the garden shed at the bottom of the garden watch your neighbour's don't see you bringing your newly acquired track shaker (vibrator), they might think your running a den of iniquity, especially if you have a lot of friends hang out in the shed. I think my reputation is ruined with in my local community, so tread carefully with this new toy. Oh and don't let your wife know your using it in the loco shed, it can lead to all sorts of problem's with your marriage.
Many thanks for this video. Clear, concise and easy to follow. Time taken to get the ballast "just right" prior to wetting and applying the glue mix is time well spent. Thanks for all the videos you have made. There is ALWAYS something to learn from them !
I went to East Lancashire Railway the other day and it's sparked my interest in building a model railway. In the last few days I have been watching your videos and it's given me the confidence to go ahead with it.
Nice job! Can't thank you enough for your videos. I'm just starting out with this hobby...and I've re-visited your videos many times as I start each step. Clear, practical instructions. Cheers!
Just used your method on my layout and it works perfectly. Found it a lot harder to remove ballast from the sleepers than it looked for you to do it but I'm sure I'll get better at it :) Thanks a lot.
Wow, 11 years old but still great. I wish I had watched it before mine, I tried to clean the track after putting PVA down and sadly the track decided to ping up off the cork as I had only stuck that down with PVA :) Live and learn.
I modified several of my wagons to spread it over the track, and I only apply glue to the outside of the line, when a train goes over it it gives a nice affect, I re do the track every year
Hey...when I was younger and had a model railroad like this, I mixed a lot less glue and mixed it in a spray bottle of some sort and just sprayed it...worked quite well! I like this method too though since you don't end up spraying onto the tracks and such :)
@gtacrusher123 The method I use is the most used way of ballasting, I have tried the other method you mention and it does work. The problem is its very messy and uses a lot of glue.
In the late 1980s when the layout is set, quite a lot of the railway network was still wooden sleeper. Upgrading to concrete sleepers took place mainly in the 80s and 90s.
i did my very first ballast in N Gauge adopting this easy way.take your time and results show.everybody should watch this video before doing their own messy video's.
@EverardJunction , probably i would say as you stated earlier in one of your posts in that the track i had at the time was probably the steel type hornby did in the late 90's, most of the 1 st and 2nd radius curves i had were of the hornby type which were prone to accumilating this green film on the web of the rails, a great way to apply ballast, but on at least one of the layouts i have built over the last ten years i just left the ballast in the four foot loose and glued the cess or six foot
@BMR5ify If you use very old hornby track from the 1980s or 1990s then it could rust as it used to be made from steel. These days Hornby, Bachmann and Peco track it nickel silver and doesn't rust. If track does rust when ballasted then simply remove the rust from the running surface with a track rubber or very fine sandpaper. I use Peco streamline code 100 track if you were wondering.
Great vid, thanks. Because I had a fairly large layout to ballast and not the finances to use Wood Scenics I had to look for an alternative. I use beach sand (free). Colours vary depending on which beach I go to here in Western Australia. Using the same tech as in your video and it looks great. Also I buy black sand to make coal loads. Again, thanks.
Subscribed!!! Have spent the last hour watching your how to videos as I would really love to build a fiddle 5ft by 2ft board. Found all the tutorials immensely useful. :)
Hi i dont glue ballast just in case i need to get track up. Also i dont use cork it goes brittle. Dont use roll ballast it goes brittle quickly. interesting about Railmatch spray. I use a small paint brush to move ballast rather than a spoon. enjoyed it.
@Hartsock91 Cover the points up when you ballast the main part of the track. Ballast the point on their own using an eye dropper and don't spray the water on them.
@D335Media Unfortunatly I have now ballasted all points on the layout. I use the same method except i cover the moving bit with a piece of tape. Once the ballast is dry i remove the tape and add the ballast to that part and add the glue very carfully using an eye dropper.
The stuff under the track is cork sheet which I use to give the track a raised profile. I have a video called "power and control" which shows you how the layout is wired up. I don't have any videos of progamming locos at the moment.
great video as usual. I thought i could get it cheaper than Woodland Scenics at £10. Looked at the internet but postage was high. Then found roofing grit from a roofing supplier, grey and brown mixed, 2 kg, £2
@BlueberryJunction Basically I use the same method. However it is important the you cover up the switching part of the point as well as masking the point blades. I used insulating tape to do this. I might do a video about it but i can't promise anything because i've already recieved a number of other request.
I've always used pva for ballasting, i've not seen ballast done with copydex. As long as it dries clear I guess it would look the same. I have track pins but they are from before the ballast was applied. Once the ballast is dry you don't really need the track pins anymore.
I wondered if adding a bit of dark acryrllic paint to the "mix" for the bit that goes down the four foot, would take some of the pain out of the weathering. Ready made diesel staining so to speak. Great vids by the way,
@FIFApro98 No it doesn't, once it's dry rub the surface of the the tack with a track rubber. Any glue and water marks will come off and the track should work fine.
You ever bumped the table or had to lean on it to get way over the other side? The trains also agitate it slightly when they roll past, the glue keeps it all in place and off the conductive parts.
when you pick out ballast GO BY YOUR SCALE! if your Z or N use Fine Grain HO to Type O use Medium S Double T and Large use Course this way your trains run smoothly. if you don't have a shaker barrow one from your spice cupboard that is empty or store it in a jar. to attach the ballast use half a cup of water,half a cup of glue,two drops of dish soap and half a drop of rubbing alcohol. do the sides,inside the rail,and between the ties DON'T PLACE BALLAST NEAR THE CONTROL RODS OR THEY WILL BE GLUED SHUT! smooth it out with a brush and keep it even any excess needs to be vacuumed up.
ballasting is such a long and boring process but like you said if you take your time with it and use alot of glue it will look good when its done as its also one of the most inportant aspects of a model railway.nice vid tho mate.
@EverardJunction yeah luckely enough it was only one strech thank god ! and the glue mixture just rolls off the ballst if it isn't wet so it ends up wasting glue thanks :) regards!
thank you very informative strait forward and nik good tip on wifes vib's i was watching a guy last week [jnw ho] in the end it was like watching paint dry, but alas he didn't like my comments about the paint anyway informative keep it up
Looks easy....but you make things look easy anyway! lol What thickness of cork underlay did you use? Was it 1/16" (about 1.5mm) or the other size available in shops of 1/8", about 2.5-3mm. Really need to decide before I lay my mainline station.
i have seen loads of these vids but most of the other vids say that you have to put the balast in the glue and put it on the track but i think that is just messy and you will get sticky but your way looks the best way to use
Very interesting to see how other people ballast, one thing, I would off liked to seen the finished product. But otherwise very good, and i will use some off your tips.
As you progress with the layout and become a more experienced modeller, I would recommend getting an airbrush. Washes and brush painting only gets you so far.
Really like this guy and how he speaks and explains things. After watching this film 100 times I've just finished trying it on my layout following his instructions word by word. I'm praying I've done it right.
Take a tip from the prototype rail engineers and “tamp” your ballast while its dry. I used one of my wife’s vibrators, a Eroscillator because it vibrated at a high frequency. The vibration settles the ballast into place nice and evenly then you just need to trim up the sides
Nik Morris 😂
Eros Cillator... LOL
I’d hate to see the size of a model rail enthusiasts wife’s vibrator 😅
Anyone thinking of trying what Nik Morris suggest tread carefully. I followed his example to the letter and my ballast shook off the train table :(, I suggest putting it on too a lower setting. Oh another piece of advice, if your layout is in the garden shed at the bottom of the garden watch your neighbour's don't see you bringing your newly acquired track shaker (vibrator), they might think your running a den of iniquity, especially if you have a lot of friends hang out in the shed. I think my reputation is ruined with in my local community, so tread carefully with this new toy.
Oh and don't let your wife know your using it in the loco shed, it can lead to all sorts of problem's with your marriage.
brilliant
Many thanks for this video. Clear, concise and easy to follow. Time taken to get the ballast "just right" prior to wetting and applying the glue mix is time well spent. Thanks for all the videos you have made. There is ALWAYS something to learn from them !
I went to East Lancashire Railway the other day and it's sparked my interest in building a model railway. In the last few days I have been watching your videos and it's given me the confidence to go ahead with it.
I watched your video, followed your instructions. Job done, looks great, no problems. Thank you very much. I think the key word is, patience.
Nice job! Can't thank you enough for your videos. I'm just starting out with this hobby...and I've re-visited your videos many times as I start each step. Clear, practical instructions. Cheers!
Great tutorial. The clearest presentation I have seen. Thanks for the tip on the glue too, instead of buying the pre-made expensive stuff.
Just used your method on my layout and it works perfectly. Found it a lot harder to remove ballast from the sleepers than it looked for you to do it but I'm sure I'll get better at it :) Thanks a lot.
Wow, 11 years old but still great. I wish I had watched it before mine, I tried to clean the track after putting PVA down and sadly the track decided to ping up off the cork as I had only stuck that down with PVA :)
Live and learn.
Hi just to say an excellent idiots guide to ballasting, helped me out doing my layout ballasting which I started today 👍🏻
I'm going to use this method on my cased models, for the track bed they sit on. Really useful, thanks.
This is just the sort of thing I needed to watch. Excellent guide!
I modified several of my wagons to spread it over the track, and I only apply glue to the outside of the line, when a train goes over it it gives a nice affect, I re do the track every year
No nonsense tutorial without the usual unless unrelated comments. Good job.
Nice info.The key like you said is making sure the ballast is fully damp before the glue is applied.Thanks.
Hey...when I was younger and had a model railroad like this, I mixed a lot less glue and mixed it in a spray bottle of some sort and just sprayed it...worked quite well! I like this method too though since you don't end up spraying onto the tracks and such :)
@gtacrusher123 The method I use is the most used way of ballasting, I have tried the other method you mention and it does work. The problem is its very messy and uses a lot of glue.
Simple, short and accurate. Very good video for beginers like, thank you very much for it !
Brilliant explanation new to train layout so followed your instructions to the word. Worked a treat.
In the late 1980s when the layout is set, quite a lot of the railway network was still wooden sleeper. Upgrading to concrete sleepers took place mainly in the 80s and 90s.
Great explanation. Very clear directions even a beginner like me could follow!
just starting out with my first model, was worried about ballasting, this video has been very useful, thankyou very much, will be subscribing!
i did my very first ballast in N Gauge adopting this easy way.take your time and results show.everybody should watch this video before doing their own messy video's.
You video explains clearly and logically the whole process. Thanx!
@EverardJunction , probably i would say as you stated earlier in one of your posts in that the track i had at the time was probably the steel type hornby did in the late 90's, most of the 1 st and 2nd radius curves i had were of the hornby type which were prone to accumilating this green film on the web of the rails, a great way to apply ballast, but on at least one of the layouts i have built over the last ten years i just left the ballast in the four foot loose and glued the cess or six foot
Thanks for the video, I will commence Ballantine tomorrow , 👍👍👍👍🚂.
Just started modeling. This was a big help. Will be starting the ballasting process soon.
@BMR5ify If you use very old hornby track from the 1980s or 1990s then it could rust as it used to be made from steel. These days Hornby, Bachmann and Peco track it nickel silver and doesn't rust. If track does rust when ballasted then simply remove the rust from the running surface with a track rubber or very fine sandpaper.
I use Peco streamline code 100 track if you were wondering.
This is a really great video! I'm not so worried about ballasting for my first time now.
great video helped me no end with my ballasting. worked a treat and very impressed with result...
@Tennisman66 For normal track cleaning I use the CMX track cleaner, other track cleaning cars such as the dapol one also work well.
Great vid, thanks. Because I had a fairly large layout to ballast and not the finances to use Wood Scenics I had to look for an alternative. I use beach sand (free). Colours vary depending on which beach I go to here in Western Australia. Using the same tech as in your video and it looks great. Also I buy black sand to make coal loads. Again, thanks.
Subscribed!!! Have spent the last hour watching your how to videos as I would really love to build a fiddle 5ft by 2ft board. Found all the tutorials immensely useful. :)
Exactly what I needed! I have looked at tons of youtube videos but to no avail. Thanks...Oooops...my bad...I mean a big CHEERS from the USA mate!
Really good clear talking instructions. Cheers! I will try this method with my small oo layout soon 👍
@EastMidlandsSteam Yes use the same method, but make sure that you tape over the point blades so you don't get glue or water on them.
@Hartsock91 I would pull the clip out as the water might corrode the metal contacts. The cork is about 50mm wide.
Hi i dont glue ballast just in case i need to get track up. Also i dont use cork it goes brittle. Dont use roll ballast it goes brittle quickly. interesting about Railmatch spray. I use a small paint brush to move ballast rather than a spoon. enjoyed it.
@jmsschooner I use a normal track rubber to rub off the glue. After the glue is gone i use the CMX track cleaner.
I finally bought a Proses spreader........worked GREAT
Excellent video. Thank you very much for your imput. It's the best I've see!
@MrJezza31 Yes, it sort of shot out of the tube! I used it on other things after.
@Hartsock91 Cover the points up when you ballast the main part of the track. Ballast the point on their own using an eye dropper and don't spray the water on them.
@D335Media Unfortunatly I have now ballasted all points on the layout. I use the same method except i cover the moving bit with a piece of tape. Once the ballast is dry i remove the tape and add the ballast to that part and add the glue very carfully using an eye dropper.
The stuff under the track is cork sheet which I use to give the track a raised profile. I have a video called "power and control" which shows you how the layout is wired up. I don't have any videos of progamming locos at the moment.
Just amazing I would have never thought it could be so simple.
Thanks, the stuff under the track is cork. It raises the track, makes it look a little more realistic.
The smaller stuff will look different, so you might need to blend the two with some weathering around the track.
great video as usual. I thought i could get it cheaper than Woodland Scenics at £10. Looked at the internet but postage was high. Then found roofing grit from a roofing supplier, grey and brown mixed, 2 kg, £2
i use a eye dropper that you get at a supermarket or chemist to drop the glue since you can put little drops on hard areas to do like points.
@BlueberryJunction Basically I use the same method. However it is important the you cover up the switching part of the point as well as masking the point blades. I used insulating tape to do this. I might do a video about it but i can't promise anything because i've already recieved a number of other request.
@TheTrain700 As long as you are careful when lifting the track it can easily be re-used. I've done it with quite a few pieces of track.
I've always used pva for ballasting, i've not seen ballast done with copydex. As long as it dries clear I guess it would look the same. I have track pins but they are from before the ballast was applied. Once the ballast is dry you don't really need the track pins anymore.
Woodland Scenics Grey Blend. It's a mixture of light and dark greys.
I wondered if adding a bit of dark acryrllic paint to the "mix" for the bit that goes down the four foot, would take some of the pain out of the weathering. Ready made diesel staining so to speak. Great vids by the way,
@BMR5ify No you don't need underlay, I use it the raise the track, thats all it's for.
The brush is from a DIY shop, homebase, b&q, wickes, they all sell soft brushes like that.
@samster412 It can make it abit quieter, but i use it for raising the track bed. It doesn't cost to much, a few pounds per roll i think.
I get the Woodland Scenics stuff. I've used about 5 or 6 large bags/shakers
It's for track cleaning. Put some on a cloth and rub the track. Or poor it into a track cleaning wagon.
@FIFApro98 No it doesn't, once it's dry rub the surface of the the tack with a track rubber. Any glue and water marks will come off and the track should work fine.
at around 2:15 saw eg's of areas done. there sb some brown to represent mud and dirt plus some green to represent shrubs ,grass and weeds
It can in small areas if you use a cheap glue. I weather the track afterwards anyway so it's not really an issue.
Great Video you make it look so easy brill thanks
Thanks for sharing, very useful and well demonstrated. What could possibly go wrong?..lol
You ever bumped the table or had to lean on it to get way over the other side?
The trains also agitate it slightly when they roll past, the glue keeps it all in place and off the conductive parts.
Really helpful instructional video! Thanks for posting, shall be using this method on my new layout!
when you pick out ballast GO BY YOUR SCALE! if your Z or N use Fine Grain HO to Type O use Medium S Double T and Large use Course this way your trains run smoothly. if you don't have a shaker barrow one from your spice cupboard that is empty or store it in a jar. to attach the ballast use half a cup of water,half a cup of glue,two drops of dish soap and half a drop of rubbing alcohol. do the sides,inside the rail,and between the ties DON'T PLACE BALLAST NEAR THE CONTROL RODS OR THEY WILL BE GLUED SHUT! smooth it out with a brush and keep it even any excess needs to be vacuumed up.
ballasting is such a long and boring process but like you said if you take your time with it and use alot of glue it will look good when its done as its also one of the most inportant aspects of a model railway.nice vid tho mate.
A video for that is uploading right now. Should be live in the next hour.
@EverardJunction yeah luckely enough it was only one strech thank god !
and the glue mixture just rolls off the ballst if it isn't wet so it ends up wasting glue
thanks :)
regards!
thank you very informative strait forward and nik good tip on wifes vib's i was watching a guy last week [jnw ho] in the end it was like watching paint dry, but alas he didn't like my comments about the paint anyway informative keep it up
@SuperBige62 Once track is ballasted it can be re-used, you do have to be very careful as it is easily damaged when it pulled up.
It says on the bag, woodland scenics medium grey. I got the large bag that cost about £10 from hobbycraft.
@itgamer100 Thanks, ballasting make a huge difference.
Thanks for the help this is going to be handy when I do it
@gtacrusher123 Fairy liquid allows the glue to really soak into the ballast
Yes, you need to clean all the dry glue off the surface of the rails with a track rubber, otherwise nothing will work.
I did try this grey blended.It was okey.I recommended instead one part light grey and one part buff.Both of them in medium size from WS.
Looks easy....but you make things look easy anyway! lol What thickness of cork underlay did you use? Was it 1/16" (about 1.5mm) or the other size available in shops of 1/8", about 2.5-3mm. Really need to decide before I lay my mainline station.
i have seen loads of these vids but most of the other vids say that you have to put the balast in the glue and put it on the track but i think that is just messy and you will get sticky but your way looks the best way to use
@TheGazzernator It depends how brave you are feeling and how much ballast you have. The most I have ever done at once is 3m of track.
Do you use this method on points? would the glue not stop the point from moving when switched?
I use a pipet that you use on school science lessons to glue the ballast but this looks a lot quicker thanks.
Ballast won't reduce the noise. I wouldn't recommend foam underlay as that can cause the track to get very uneven over time.
good vid,,getting all the tips for when I get round to building my layout,,thanks.
Very interesting to see how other people ballast, one thing, I would off liked to seen the finished product.
But otherwise very good, and i will use some off your tips.
If you follow the video and take it slow you should be fine. The ballast spreaders are hit and miss, its easier by hand.
great video, a good help to novice modellers
Another excellent video, I noticed you spray the water to damp down the ballast, have you ever tried spraying the ballast with the adhesive mix ?
@stillfreefilms Yes, i use one for points aswell. On normal track it doesn't really matter
@bloodmarine77 Thanks mate, I hate ballasting. It takes ages to do and ages to dry once you've done it.
Click on the "Transcript" button, its a hoot!! Nice Video too.
I get the cork roll from hattons, then cut it into stips.
@EverardJunction I found that Isopropyl Spray Alcohol works better than water. You should try it sometime
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As you progress with the layout and become a more experienced modeller, I would recommend getting an airbrush. Washes and brush painting only gets you so far.
@EverardJunction thanks. BTW your vids are amazing! they have helped me build my layout which is still a huge WIP. Thanks again!
Excellent video.
Could you perhaps do one on ballasting over points mate? Great help so far.
Nice informative vid.