I have exact same lathe I picked up mid summer. I now know how to pull the spindle if I need to. My bullgear pin was hard to pull but lube and channel locks working it made it able to pull with fingers now. It's my first lathe and the knowledge I've gained from ol' Tubalcane and yourself has been a real help.
Hi Joe! I know this is an old video and I can't believe its taken me this long to find your channel. I might be the guy you mentioned that had a hard time with removing the spindle. I also had an issue with the locking pin but didn't realised it until I had the lathe back together. I put off fixing the issue because I would need to disassemble the spindle to get to the bull gear. What a headache, though it was easier second time around. I fixed the locking pin and was able to remedy the issue getting the bull gear back on. However, now I'm having an issue getting the bearing by the gears back on. It gets hung up right where the threads on the spindle end. I'm still working at it and came across your videos while doing some research. Thanks for filming your trial and tribulations!
I relied on your videos when I first got my Atlas. Thank you for watching. So it sounds like you might have a burr raised up. If you have some good stones, you may want to give it a light stoning and see if it picks it up. I bought a pair of precision ground stones shark River machine and I found them invaluable. Let me know how it turns out. Joe
@@MyHeap Little bit of an update. I'm guessing you were right about the burr even though I couldn't feel anything. I used 400 and 600 grit sand paper to clean up the bull gear. I put the spindle in the freezer for a few hours and when ready, used a heat gun on the gear. Slid on like butter and now moves freely even after temps normalized. I still had a hard time getting the bearing that goes on the gear side on even after cleaning up the spindle. It's on though. I'm almost ready to make chips. Just need to tighten up a few things.
tomorrow I'm picking up this lathe from a gentleman who is selling it. It is disassembled and I'll have to figure out what parts are missing (he said it was missing some parts when he bought it from an elderly gentleman) and what parts I have. Your video here, combined with the parts list pdf I downloaded and the lathe operation manual, I should be able to figure it out. I'm a software engineer by day and content creator by night. I bought this for creating new content. Thanks so much -John
Hi John, you sound a little like me. I am a network engineer by day and a content creator by night. If there is anything I can help you with, let me know. I will say this, the little Atlas 10 f has been a great addition to my little shop. Just holler if I can help you. Thanks for watching and commenting. Joe
No, I didn't need to replace mine but did buy new spindle bearings for the Burke. They were easy enough to get but you really need to look around because the cost is all over the place. I would imagine it is the same way with the Atlas. If you need help sourcing them, let me know and I will see what I can do. Joe
So the pin was probably stuck due to age and goo etc, but also years of not using the back gears and running with the pin engaged, the pulley gets twisted slightly relative to the bull gear locking the pin in place. If you had grabbed the bull gear and pulley and giggled them in opposite directions the pin may have freed up once the pulley freed up on the shaft. If the pulley ever freed up. The bearing is supposed to be tight, but for the cost of new parts etc rather than replace anything, I would apply gap filling loctite to the bearing and shaft. It will take up that half a tho or so of play and survive way more abuse than you would expect and improve the quality of work it can get done in that lathe. The stuff is expensive but I assume no one makes new spindles for these things
Hello, I wonder if you could help me please? I have recently acquired an Acorn 10" lathe, UK version of the Atlas, and it is missing the two step motor pulley. Would you be so kind as to give me the dimensions please? Your videos are very informative and helpful, thank you for sharing with us novices.
Hello and thanks for taking the time to stop by and comment. I just went downstairs and measured my 2 step motor pulley. Mine is 4-1/2" and 2". I also should say that my pulley looks like it was machined from a solid piece of aluminum and is not original. I do know that the original part number for the pulley was 9-428, but I do not know the size. It is not listed in the documentation I have. My pulley has a 5/8 inch bore but has a pulley bushing to bring it down to a 1/2 inch motor shaft. I hope that helps a little. Joe
Thanks for the input Leonard. My bearings seem to be only slip fit. I don't feel any play in them, but perhaps my spindle is worn down. Regardless, I will have to live with it. I did get the back gears off and apart. They were not too bad. Thanks you for commenting and watching.
Not bad, except, could you not have figured out how to do a view feom the other end of the spindle shaft (so we can see the back gear lock pin? and the woodruff key?
You are right. Some forethought on my part would have made a better video. I will try to give better thought to camera placement for future video. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I really do appreciate it. Joe
Does anyone know what the Timken Bearing ( Taper Roller Bearing) and Race Numbers are for a Atlas TH54 ?? Having major problems finding using what is in mine and they are Timken. The larger bearing is off the charts as in $$$$$ and I mean off the charts. This is what is in mine which are bad---- Timken Small bearing # 14125-A Race or Cup # 14276-B Timken Larger bearing # 16150 Race or Cup # 16284-B. I do not know if these are even the right bearings in the first place---any help would be great
@@MyHeap Timken they are the only ones who sell them for this lathe Large Bearing -- Race #16284-B / Bearing #16150 Small Bearing-- Race #14276-B / Bearing # 14125-A . Clausing wants right at $500.00 for the large bearing(Complete) if they had it in stock. Have found the Race at $265.00 and the Bearing at $50.00 on the net but they did not have it in stock . This TH54 is not worth it to many things wrong/broken and missing---sad to say will be parting it out in the coming weeks I think will be posting them on Craigslist Tools Tampa Florida Have a Cousin with this TH54 Lathe and will let him have what he wants first. There are no aftermarket Bearings for this lathe except in China that I have found. Depending what my Cousin wants and if can not sell anything I will not sit on the parts left over---my garage has way to much stuff in it LOL. This lathe is Dated on the Bearings 1941 S/N-033415 so these bearing numbers are right for this lathe.
@@tc1839 Well, if he doesn't want the crossfeed handle, if it is intact, I would like to have a chance at getting it. Mine is broken. Email me at xavier@gtec.com if you would like to discuss it. Joe
@@MyHeap yup old mister bull gear pin had some trouble opposite of your trouble. I have had this lathe since I was 10 years old back in the late 60's. I had to pull it apart last year. While it was apart, I replaced the belt too. It took me awhile to adjust the preload on the spindle bearings just right when I was done. The bull gear pin socket got a little wear on it from being spaced too far from the pulley and it wouldnt stay locked in. Getting the key back in during reassembly was the real pain the butt. However its happy now. I think it smiled at me the other day.
@@ALSomthin awesome. So does the pin stay engaged now? There should be a ball and spring hat hold it engaged. It has been a long while since I had mine apart. How was it popping out? Joe
@@MyHeap yup all happy now. The spacing betwwen the pully and the bull gear was a little too far apart and the detent spring in the pin was weak it created a little wear from popping out all the time and eventually woulnt stay in at all. Now its on to getting this weird german adjustable three jaw chuck someone put on it in the 50s to run true again. The jaws are worn the screw and jaw guides are worn Also I figured out how to reverse it with a D.C. motor and speed controller. I keep the chuck on the spindle with a set screw in a blind reciver hole I put in the spindle.
I have exact same lathe I picked up mid summer. I now know how to pull the spindle if I need to. My bullgear pin was hard to pull but lube and channel locks working it made it able to pull with fingers now. It's my first lathe and the knowledge I've gained from ol' Tubalcane and yourself has been a real help.
I am glad it has helped you. :-)
Hi Joe! I know this is an old video and I can't believe its taken me this long to find your channel. I might be the guy you mentioned that had a hard time with removing the spindle. I also had an issue with the locking pin but didn't realised it until I had the lathe back together. I put off fixing the issue because I would need to disassemble the spindle to get to the bull gear. What a headache, though it was easier second time around. I fixed the locking pin and was able to remedy the issue getting the bull gear back on. However, now I'm having an issue getting the bearing by the gears back on. It gets hung up right where the threads on the spindle end. I'm still working at it and came across your videos while doing some research. Thanks for filming your trial and tribulations!
I relied on your videos when I first got my Atlas. Thank you for watching. So it sounds like you might have a burr raised up. If you have some good stones, you may want to give it a light stoning and see if it picks it up. I bought a pair of precision ground stones shark River machine and I found them invaluable. Let me know how it turns out.
Joe
@@MyHeap Little bit of an update. I'm guessing you were right about the burr even though I couldn't feel anything. I used 400 and 600 grit sand paper to clean up the bull gear. I put the spindle in the freezer for a few hours and when ready, used a heat gun on the gear. Slid on like butter and now moves freely even after temps normalized. I still had a hard time getting the bearing that goes on the gear side on even after cleaning up the spindle. It's on though. I'm almost ready to make chips. Just need to tighten up a few things.
@@eviltwinx Awesome. That sounds like a win to me!
I just bought the same model off CL, it has the EXACTLY the same problem! Thanks to you I know how to fix it.
I am glad to have been able to help in some small way. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Joe
Thanks for the plug. Nice job on the spindle removal. I have never removed one!! Now I know how.
+mrpete222 Thank you Mr. Pete. That means a lot coming from you. :-)
Mr pete is the man
tomorrow I'm picking up this lathe from a gentleman who is selling it. It is disassembled and I'll have to figure out what parts are missing (he said it was missing some parts when he bought it from an elderly gentleman) and what parts I have. Your video here, combined with the parts list pdf I downloaded and the lathe operation manual, I should be able to figure it out. I'm a software engineer by day and content creator by night. I bought this for creating new content. Thanks so much -John
Hi John, you sound a little like me. I am a network engineer by day and a content creator by night. If there is anything I can help you with, let me know. I will say this, the little Atlas 10 f has been a great addition to my little shop. Just holler if I can help you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Joe
Thank you very much for posting this. I would have been lost without this and a couple of similar videos.
I am pleased to know that it helped. Thank you for watching.
Out of interest, did you replace the headstock bearings and are they easy to get hold of in the USA?
No, I didn't need to replace mine but did buy new spindle bearings for the Burke. They were easy enough to get but you really need to look around because the cost is all over the place. I would imagine it is the same way with the Atlas. If you need help sourcing them, let me know and I will see what I can do.
Joe
@@MyHeap Cheers,
Many thanks for that. For a variety of reasons I am going to have to do the same thing to my Atlas 10.
I am glad it helped. Thank you for watching.
Joe
@@MyHeap not yet... 8 have not recommissioned the Atlas 10 yet... Hopefully in a couple of weeks.
So the pin was probably stuck due to age and goo etc, but also years of not using the back gears and running with the pin engaged, the pulley gets twisted slightly relative to the bull gear locking the pin in place. If you had grabbed the bull gear and pulley and giggled them in opposite directions the pin may have freed up once the pulley freed up on the shaft. If the pulley ever freed up.
The bearing is supposed to be tight, but for the cost of new parts etc rather than replace anything, I would apply gap filling loctite to the bearing and shaft. It will take up that half a tho or so of play and survive way more abuse than you would expect and improve the quality of work it can get done in that lathe. The stuff is expensive but I assume no one makes new spindles for these things
I reached in with needle nose pliers and pulled the pin . They seem to get stuck with age , but didn’t take anything apart.
Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Joe
Tried impact wrench method. That really worked. Thank you!
Glad I was able to help. I wish at the time that I had a heavier "Impact" wrench. The rubber one didn't have enough weight.
Joe
Hello, I wonder if you could help me please? I have recently acquired an Acorn 10" lathe, UK version of the Atlas, and it is missing the two step motor pulley. Would you be so kind as to give me the dimensions please? Your videos are very informative and helpful, thank you for sharing with us novices.
Hello and thanks for taking the time to stop by and comment. I just went downstairs and measured my 2 step motor pulley. Mine is 4-1/2" and 2". I also should say that my pulley looks like it was machined from a solid piece of aluminum and is not original. I do know that the original part number for the pulley was 9-428, but I do not know the size. It is not listed in the documentation I have. My pulley has a 5/8 inch bore but has a pulley bushing to bring it down to a 1/2 inch motor shaft. I hope that helps a little.
Joe
Bearings are pressed on. Getting the back gear off means getting to the woodruff key.
Thanks for the input Leonard. My bearings seem to be only slip fit. I don't feel any play in them, but perhaps my spindle is worn down. Regardless, I will have to live with it.
I did get the back gears off and apart. They were not too bad. Thanks you for commenting and watching.
Not bad, except, could you not have figured out how to do a view feom the other end of the spindle shaft (so we can see the back gear lock pin? and the woodruff key?
You are right. Some forethought on my part would have made a better video. I will try to give better thought to camera placement for future video. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I really do appreciate it.
Joe
@@MyHeap Thanks, at least you did make a video, i never had it in me to do that!
Mr pete is freaken badass
Yes, Mr. Pete is awesome.
Does anyone know what the Timken Bearing ( Taper Roller Bearing) and Race Numbers are for a Atlas TH54 ?? Having major problems finding using what is in mine and they are Timken. The larger bearing is off the charts as in $$$$$ and I mean off the charts. This is what is in mine which are bad---- Timken Small bearing # 14125-A Race or Cup # 14276-B Timken Larger bearing
# 16150 Race or Cup # 16284-B. I do not know if these are even the right bearings in the first place---any help would be great
What does Clausing recommend?
@@MyHeap
Timken they are the only ones who sell them for this lathe Large Bearing -- Race #16284-B / Bearing #16150 Small Bearing-- Race #14276-B / Bearing # 14125-A . Clausing wants right at $500.00 for the large bearing(Complete) if they had it in stock. Have found the Race at $265.00 and the Bearing at $50.00 on the net but they did not have it in stock . This TH54 is not worth it to many things wrong/broken and missing---sad to say will be parting it out in the coming weeks I think will be posting them on Craigslist Tools Tampa Florida
Have a Cousin with this TH54 Lathe and will let him have what he wants first. There are no aftermarket Bearings for this lathe except in China that I have found. Depending what my Cousin wants and if can not sell anything I will not sit on the parts left over---my garage has way to much stuff in it LOL. This lathe is Dated on the Bearings 1941 S/N-033415 so these bearing numbers are right for this lathe.
@@tc1839 Well, if he doesn't want the crossfeed handle, if it is intact, I would like to have a chance at getting it. Mine is broken. Email me at xavier@gtec.com if you would like to discuss it.
Joe
My pin kept popping out.
The bull gear pin??
@@MyHeap yup old mister bull gear pin had some trouble opposite of your trouble. I have had this lathe since I was 10 years old back in the late 60's. I had to pull it apart last year. While it was apart, I replaced the belt too. It took me awhile to adjust the preload on the spindle bearings just right when I was done. The bull gear pin socket got a little wear on it from being spaced too far from the pulley and it wouldnt stay locked in. Getting the key back in during reassembly was the real pain the butt. However its happy now. I think it smiled at me the other day.
@@ALSomthin awesome. So does the pin stay engaged now? There should be a ball and spring hat hold it engaged. It has been a long while since I had mine apart. How was it popping out?
Joe
@@MyHeap yup all happy now. The spacing betwwen the pully and the bull gear was a little too far apart and the detent spring in the pin was weak it created a little wear from popping out all the time and eventually woulnt stay in at all. Now its on to getting this weird german adjustable three jaw chuck someone put on it in the 50s to run true again. The jaws are worn the screw and jaw guides are worn Also I figured out how to reverse it with a D.C. motor and speed controller. I keep the chuck on the spindle with a set screw in a blind reciver hole I put in the spindle.