Using Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- What are your thoughts and experiences on using solder seal heat shrink butt connectors for wiring repairs? I have to say, I am a fan so far. Longevity of the repair is what I'm really interested in.
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![CORRECT CRIMPERS - Wiring 201 Butt Connectors How To [NO SOLDER]](/img/n.gif)
What are your thoughts and experiences on using solder seal heat shrink butt connectors for wiring repairs? I have to say, I am a fan so far. Longevity of the repair is what I'm really interested in.
The ones I used in the video can be found on my Amazon Affiliate page here www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
Hi scanner danner, is the connector the split on the last video a 3m? Just wondered so I know which one not to use.
Thanks,
Elijah
As an added, there is a marine grade heat shrink tubing that has adhesive inside that seals the connection. Put a piece of it on the outer sheathing of the harness before you do your splice with the solder seal butt connector, afterwards, cut away the split portion of the harness and cover both splices and the extra wire with the marine grade heat shrink. That way you have the wiring harness and the splices protected from moisture. amzn.to/2I7Np9Q
To be honest, I'm not sure but I think it was NOT the 3m ones.
I do Fleet Maintenance and I swear by solder seal heat shrinks I have never had to repair the same place twice. But I only see the vehicle for 7 years or less
They work awesome I’ve used them for the last 4 years and I’ve never had an issue.
I'd like to add, a good practice when you have a larger bundle to repair, is to offset the splices so you don't have a bulge in the harness. Kudos on your innovation and heart.
Love those things. Used them all the time a when I was working on semi trailers. A piece of heat shrink tubing or vulcanizing tape on top of those things and it will last forever. Whats great about them is that you can put them next to eachother, unlike the crimp type where you have to put at different lenghts to get the tubing on.
It was me!! I was sitting here thinking to myself when I first started the video ‘ I know I told him about these’.....and then you said it.
Thank you Robert Perry!
Lies its was me why you taking credit for
That Tesa tape is amazing, very sticky and really good against rubbing. Where I work we use it all the time for wiring prototypes and test cars
Hi Paul I was introduce to this type of connectors about 20 years ago by a German company call wurth and I been using haver since for this type of repairs specially on industrial machinery like excavators and bulldozers Keep up the good work
I've seen this style sold along side my regular crimp/heat shrink butt connectors, but I never bought them, nor have I ever used them. Looks like a real solid fix for any wires that aren't 100% copper (or for wires that are).
I've had great luck using the crimp style butt connectors. They hold up really well under engine compartment heat, undercarriage water and road salt/sand blasts, and abrasion against metal objects. I use them on everything - lawn equipment, motorcycles, boats, & boat, car-hauling, and utility trailers. My main reason for using the crimp style is speed - put one wire in, crimp, put the other wire in, crimp, heat, DONE. Glad you showed how these ones work - I'll definitely keep that in the back of my brain for future use. THANKS again Paul! Great vid! 👍
I recently learned about these and used them while building a power box for ice fishing. I used a long nose lighter (used at BBQ grill) to melt the solder. I had a little insulation burning too, so I will be using my new heat gun with small nozzle that is part of a soldering station.
Since I will be in wet (snow) environment, I put another heat shrink tube on top of the clear connector. One last thing, instead of twisting the bare copper together in my case, I pre-soldered (thinned) the wire ends before inserting in the connector. The solder on the wire also melted in addition to the ring. Waiting for winter to put the unit to work. So far so good.
This is my regular wire repair procedure. They also have the same type of sleeves but with crimps in them also, which make it easier for the hard to reach places. When you crimp them it holds the wires in place so you can melt the sodier. Awesome videos though im a big fan!!
I used the same ones with the crimp, solder, and sealant with excellent results. Bit pricey, I think I paid $20.00 for a pack of ten from a local parts store.
I always thank Almighty God for bringing out talented people like you "scannerdanner" to enlighthen us about automotive tech world. I am a subscriber to your premium channel, and your channel offered me what i wanted to become an automotive tech. Thank you👌👌👌👍👍👍✌✌✌
🙂 hes brite, not just any guy can do what he does, takes a special person
Is it possible to become a pro tech with his teachings? I dont disagree but want to know from the real world.
@@scientist100 🙂 hes a teacher at a technical school, teachers can help out alot, but its only temporary, yes eventually the real world is different, it can be difficult plus alot of drama dealing with customers and fellow coworkers 😉
I like that!!! I will be getting some for my boat. Great video. Thanks
I have been using them on my customers trucks for a couple years, I had a boat mechanic turn me on to them. I love them, and I havent had one fail on a truck I have used them on. Longest has been on a 6.0 cam sensor loom, a little over 2 years ago
Hey Paul, have you ever considered Patreon? I love watching diagnostics videos particularly you and Eric O. And I’m glad to give back a little for all your time you guys spend teaching us. Thanks.
clean, sealed, small, and strong connection - nice work and video - thanks!
I used them on my boat. Held good and are waterproof.
Hi Paul, nice fix. I’ve found with Tesa tape that you can heat it with a heat gun or similar after you’re done wrapping the wiring, it will shrink down a little and tighten itself on the wiring. Makes the job just that little bit neater
Very nice real world demonstration of those butt connectors. Thanks!
ScannerDanner I work for Nissan and that’s the OEM preference for fixing wires. That’s cool you found them
Been using these for a while, found them from some guy that does marine repair and been a fan since!
🤓 ive seen them on an RV repair video
Paul, self vulcanizing tape which is ideal for perfectly closing and insulating various openings and cable Isolation rightly a plaid is waterproof.
The first time i saw those was in a recall repair kit at Nissan for broken air bag harness wires under armada front seats. They are awesome! I started using them on all my wiring repairs
Excellent Video Review. I didn't Even know about this. This is Very Handy for Electrical Repairs in almost any Application. Keep up the Great work
Thank you Paul. Bless you and your family.
I saw this on the FB post. I think it's a cool concept. Just ordered some and received them today. Can't wait to try them out. It's nice to have various repair options, especially out in the field or on site.
Same here found on fb ,so far not successful
@@joshuabanwaree2640 I have them but haven't needed to use them yet. Lol I do want to install at least 2 with what I normally do... and compare. See how long it lasts.
@@CubasAutomotive I just tried using them last 25 min I can not get good results
@@joshuabanwaree2640 oooohh... that stinks. I'm still curious. I'll be sure to have my backup tools when I try it. Even if I waste a few, I may have to try it tmrw just to see.
used those for years, they hold up very well .. the red adhesive i would describe as " hot glue stick sealant" prevents moisture from entering the connection
I've used these on Mercedes airbag wires per their TSB's. The ones i used came from Mercedes. They work well in my experience..and as always a thumbs up 👍👍👍
airbags are for sure not the thing to fool with, so only use ""factory approved, materials and fixes" which will most always be supplied from them as a kit... :)
Im glad u made this video. I was curious to see it could work on my low beam headlight wire harness. The connector burnt. I got a pigtail of 18 awg wire to connect to the 16 awg wire harness for that low beam. My crimp connectors failed. Thank u for this video.
I like the heat shrink/adhesive lined crimp connectors better than these solder sleaves. I just don't trust them
Looks like a decent product and fast repair time. Save some lighter fluid so after the repair you can spark one up. lol
Great video !!! I just purchased the same name brand !!! I was looking for a little reassurance that I made a decent purchase , Thanks to your video I feel that this is a great product !!!
There's also that self reacting silicone based tape out there which works really well when pull/stretch it as opposed to your standard electrical adhesive type tapes.
I buy all the sizes of these off of Ebay and it is cost effective. I am a fan of these solder sleaves too. They work very well in my opinion.
I've seen them and similar around for years, but never used them. I've used lots of crimp heat seal butt splices though. if it needs soldered I splice and solder with real solder station and products.
I tend to do most solder joints "western union" splice style, often modified with less wraps or sometimes only half the strands or mesh them and twist against each other like you did.
what I choose depends on the wire gauge, amount of space and how streamline it needs to be. but I work on real fine thins at times, think mini-quad copter and such, where three of the wires equal one of the abs size wires!
That product appears to be a fine one and a labor saver. Currently at our shop, say to repair ABS wires on the KW's that become split when tire chains break apart, we have to use two small pieces of heat shrink tubing for the two damaged wires (using just regular butt connectors for re-connection) and one larger heat shrink tube to cover both repairs.
Plymouth rubber brand electric tape was my favorite version of electrical tape other than scotch 3m brand,I used to work for a warehouse called stone ridge electronics corp. They built wiring harnesses for gm before then it was j.c.i. inc. Anyways I built harnesses for the military vehicles and accessories equipment for them, and my main job was international prostar, and t star cab wiring harness and fuse block
Scanner Dan your the man.
I've been wanting to try some of these. I normally use bare crimp connectors that I crimp then solder, then cover with heat shrink.
Nice long lasting repair. Thanks for sharing! 👍
When I first started seeing these around a couple months ago I thought they were just going to be another janky gimmick but I've got to say I too have been really impressed with these.... I ordered them off Amazon & got a pack of a hundred of the blue, yellow and red and I think there were $15 or $16.. I used them on the three wire connector going to the coil on my starter.... they work great!.. oh and yeah I'm going to order some of that Tesa tape I've never seen that you should put the link down in the description that stuff is the cat's ass Thanks Danner!
That tape is tough. We use it at our dealership to reduce abrasion on wire harnesses.
@@bombay6760 I ordered some on Amazon looks like some pretty good stuff
Hi over here in the uk .i have repaired a few abs wires using 60/40 solder using a gas soldering iron or electric iron. Never had issue
I mispoke, I meant "some" ABS wires. The real hair like fibrous ones and to be honest, these wouldn't be good on those either. Crimp only for those or replace the sensor
@@ScannerDanner to be honest my bad then .ive never seen them as if yet. Is that hust in the states or is it possible world wide cars.
Thanks ... really helpful.. dropped my Harley off the side stand and ripped through some 3... handlebar cables....
Will try this as a repair... confident it will work ... will save tons off $$$... and spare part are on back order till October????....🍻
look into the climp style heat-shrink butt connectors, I still prefer those over these. Make sure you get the ones with the sealant inside of them
How can someone didn't like this video. Im going to buy this product. The tape isn't a concern.
One recommendation. I wouldn't trust these in a high heat environment. The low temp melting point of the solder is its downfall
Eric O...... I believe it was him.....He said he put them all over a car and in a couple years had all kind of wiring problems due to those....Had to go back and take them all out
I been wondering about this I seen them on Facebook thanks for showing them
How do these hold up in the engine area? With all that heat do they melt off or hold up?
🤓 Supposedly the expensive electric tape that Electric Poles Linemen use is really good 😍
🙂 That scanner tablet looks like it has an oscilloscope like on a fluke, are they still very expensive? whats the cheapest with that feature? 😍
Cool, I'm interested in the durability as well but very convenient. I just soldered 3 sets of coil pack connectors as the plastic cracked and it was a PITA. My butane soldering iron died so had to drag out the electric one. Which brand is this one you're using? I see many different ones on Amazon, Wirefy, etc.
OUTSTANDING!! I hope they make them in EXTRA SMALL!! (don't ask!!)
A very similar product has been used in the aviation industry for decades. "Raychem" or environmental splices are really the best option where permitted (barring harness replacement) to ensure a sound long term repair. Use a heat gun though...safety third! I mean first.😁
Just found these a few months ago. AWESOME! But right now a little pricey.
Those look to be nice and quick "field repair" type of connectors. Are they also adhesive lined?
I solder all the electrical work i do in vehicles. I don't like using butt connectors because they are very thick (think the HUGE bundle you have in a wiring harness with those) and they let in moisture if you don't buy the ones with glue. They also don't REALLY get rid of the air between all the conductors. I saw these type connectors in a facebook add and got curious. I think they're good for areas where a soldering iron would be difficult to get to or somewhere with delicate wiring. My one concern is that if it's a cold wire or say wiring that's been exposed to the elements and has sucked up into the insulation, moisture being stuck inside of the connector. What are your thoughts? I was thinking if you went left to ride or visa versa, it would push out the moisture as you sealed it, but unsure.
Than you Paul Danner !!!!
Thanks for your help
You said the solder penetrated throughout the wire strands, but many UA-cam videos show it typically does not. This will result in higher resistance (meaaured by a milliohmeter) and heat (shown with a heat camera). But, it is convenient and will pass current. It's probably good enough for Boeing. 😆
Yeah, I'm not a fan of these. I honestly should just delete this video
@@ScannerDanner I wouldn't delete it. They are convenient and adequate. I use them occasionally.
Great tip 👍
I dont like these much lol
They're all the hype but then the solder doesn't flow all the way through. I don't know. I like the heat shrink adhesive lined crimp connectors better
Outstanding job awesome thanks have a great time
I think Kimball Midwest may sell these. I seemed to remember seeing these in their catalog a few years ago. I'd rather have a crimp AND solder connection with a heat shrink type material, but these may be a good substitute.
Just eBay'd me a box o' these dogs...nice! Thanks Paul!
I'd be concerned about the low melting point of the solder used in those if using them in the engine compartment.
Used in Aerospace , don't over twist wires, also don't break any wire strands when removing insulation
Just used these today on 02 sensor wire harness 👍
Great job again Paul thanks for share 🔧🔧🔧👏👏👏😉😉
Ive had success with smaller sizes white, red, and blue but yellow takes more heat to melt solder and sometimes i get the shrink to hot
🙂 ok thx for the tip
wow. need those for sure
I first was trained to use these in 1997 on the Delta ll rocket program. We use heat gun to melt
I’ve used them a few times with mixed results. As with soldering wires have to be spotlessly clean. Had a few of them burst open when heating.
Yeah I could think of multiple uses for those connectors.
Now that's friggin cool!
Scotch 130C Linerless Rubber Splicing Tape then friction tape.
Yo, Tesa is a brand... There's actually multiple different types of Tesa tape. I'm pretty sure youve got one of their friction tapes. Cloth tape with adhesive... kind of like gaffer tape on steroids. I agree it's much better than bullshit electrical tape any day. Stronger, seals better, looks better, and holds up better to...yep, friction...and just about anything else. Also, there are, in fact, waterproof tapes, (Flextape, etc.). Pretty sure Tesa makes some too, a few different kinds. I think they have a version of one of my favorite types, silicone self amalgamating/fusing pipe tape. Originally used for pipe repair so it's super stretchy and creates a flexible perfect watertight seal. Its self-fusing so there's no adhesive to break down or leave residue and supposed to llast for like, 10 years or some shit. I pair it with friction tape or heat shrink tubing and that's what the fuck is up. So far as I know anyways. I haven't used these soldered connectors yet, but this video kind of makes me excited to lol. I know they've been around for a while, (yes. I recognize this video is old as fuck) I've been putting off ordering them...until today. Fuck it it's my birthday this weekend and I'm making life easier.
I am a fan🎉
I dont use these often. Guess I still don't trust the low temp solder. I still prefer my heatshrink crimp connectors over these
@@ScannerDanner OK, I did like your demonstration and you discussion. It will work for me, I am a casual user. Thanks.
Love it!
I'm trying to send tonight
just an fyi, if I didn't just speak to you, I would have no idea what this was about. Stay in the original thread in the future please. so don't "add a public comment", hit "reply" in the thread instead. Okay?
I have used RTV to cover wire then smooth it with my fingers with water and a dab of dish soap like Dawn on my fingers
Awesome! Never knew they made those. No need for the good old roll of solder & soldering gun. Kundos 👍
Heat shrink butt connectors of any variety present several problems when it comes to harness repair. The margin for overheating the integral heat shrink is often very low, working on heavy trucks its not uncommon to find failed heat shrink butt connectors from previous repairs in the chassis harness due to moisture intrusion from split heat shrink, this is compounded on crimp type heat shrink butt connectors as the crimp often damages the insulation.
The objective of repair a harness should always be to restore the wiring harness to as good or better condition than factory. Butt connectors of any kind rapidly increase the dimension of the harness especially when you get into multiple circuit repairs, you can always cut the harness back further and off set them but that can add a lot of time depending on where the harness routes.
I prefer to use open barrel splices covered with marine grade heat shrink whenever possible, the repaired wire dimension does not increase appreciably meaning you can repair several circuits in the same location, the splice and heat shrink are applied separately meaning there is no risk of damaging either the splice or the heat shrink and the repair is a cold joint meaning you have not superheated the wiring and created a stiff spot in the harness.
I work on heavy trucks not cars but your content is very informative, test don't guess.
I prefer my crimp style heat shrink connectors over these. In fact, I never use these nor do I see any advantage of them, only disadvantages like the ones you mentioned
My guess would be some ABS harnesses use stainless in the wiring. Very difficult to solder even if you know what you are doing. If regular soldering doesn't hold, these are probably not going to help.
These are used by Nissan for a some recalls. They seem to work really well.
Looks good but invest in a 2 pack of jet lighters from poundland, they shrink it much quicker and give better aimed heat
I have found quite a bit of wiring now is copper clad aluminum and is very difficult, if not impossible, to solder
? It's not hard to solder to the copper cladding, you simply must leave it on the wire.
Maybe it was the brand I used, but.....the issue I kept having was, the solder would melt and at the same time, would tend to pop through the wall of the connector. Almost like a boil through issue. Which is the same as pin punching a wire because now it's not sealed. I won't mention the name but they weren't off brand or cheap. Maybe I'll try again. Thanks
that sounds overheated, use a heat gun instead and heat it slower. you can move the flame away and around more for same results, also turn the flame down.
but heat gun or indirect heat like infrared is best for all the shrink connectors.
i bought a box of them...👍🤩❗
NICE
You CAN solder almost anything.
If you can’t, it is simply because you do not have the right solder/flux and tools, period.
problem is, some things you'll burn the coating off before soldering, even with heat sinking attached ;)
P V you are incorrect
The problem is abs wires aren't real wire it some cheap wire and when you have problems with abs wires they are so black with corrosion that they can't be cleaned ad soon as you try they fall apart you have two options buy a new harness or use crimp connectors you never be able to get them clean enough for solder
It's _really_ hard to get any kind of solder to stick to that copper plated alu wire crap they use for some things. The copper coating evaporates and the wires curl up on you and the tin doesn't wet aluminium etc etc. I usually stick with the crimp and shrink butt connectors for most things, only if I need a slimmer connector do I use the solder shrink ones.
@@ColtaineCrows using flux will work .
That’s my blazer!
Is there one for the 28 awg, i search but I didn’t find one.
28 gauge wire? What is that, one single strand? I've never even heard of a wire that small
Pwul I sent you message on website regarding e-book, did you received it?
yes I did Kris. I just replied, check your spam folder okay? Thank you!
i always use grote 83-3110 uninsul and there many size. but . with shrink tubing with the glue ...it better than one with shrink tubing because you damage the tubing when it press.... i never weld wire .... on are truck fleet never had a comeback. you see the car manufacturer do that in there wiring hardness and i find it bit more flexible .look better on big job plug with lot of wire. i live in area that use lots salt on are road
I like. 😄
If you had to repair both wires then why not put a heat shrink tube over the whole repair assembly, instead of tape?
OR better still, put the tape on for strength and then heatshrink tubing over top of the tape.
Brilliant product most likely it uses a 66/44 ground/solidified solder paste to keep the melting point as low as possible
I have only used the yellow ones and was not impressed. I cut it back off and soldered it with heat shrink over the top.
What does ABS stand for?
Antilock brake system
So I can use a hair dryer too?
not hot enough
I would have put heat shrink tubing over before soldering the wires
Why not cut the harness outer sheathing, put a larger diameter piece of heat shrink over the harness, put the 2 solder connectors on the 2 wires, and heat shrink those, then heat the outer piece if heat shrink over the entire affair? So what if you cut the outer harness sheathing, its already trashed. Electrical tape to complete the connection? Sorry, I don't concur with that part of it.
Looks like your using hockey tape lol
First used solder sleeves 1998
The solder flows much better if you put a dab of flux on the wire
good tip, thanks!