Inherited one of the family heirlooms, our 97’ c230, and I’m very grateful to have your videos to help me keep this baby going! Needs a lot of work at nearly 300,000 miles but I can tell it’s built well and can keep going with some TLC
My 98' has 256,000, runs great, has been maintained by the book since new, and the paint finish look nice. All of the vacuum lines seem to be in good shape, but I'm inspecting, replacing, and getting caught up on the perishables (all hoses), gaskets, and seals. The car is solid. Good to know it will do another 50,000.
Thanks Pat, i am driving a C230 1998, with up-shift transmission issues ( 5 gear ) i realised the vacuum line connector at the fuel pressure regulator was damaged, once replaced the transmission issues seemed to have disappeared. Now after looking your video i am gone check the entire system for leaks.
Hi pat, awesome video. I just purchased a 1996 C220 garaged kept with only 45k. Issue: the rear trunk vacuum pump runs grrr grerr grrr for about 3 minutes eveytime i startup the car and the ac is running. If I turn off ac noise goes away, if I l ave ac on noise goes away after 3-4 minutes. I’m worried that the motor / pump is going to burn out. ALSO the center vents don’t blow at all. Other than that this car is beautiful midnight blue that shines like it just came off the show floor. No joke!
my lovely w202 has just ground to a halt. really well looked after with 80000miles, hoping it's going to be a simple fix. temperature guage was normal. oil is spot on. no warning lights. a couple of plugs look fouled though.
Kinda surprised that the coil spring perch failure rate wasn’t mentioned, lol. My last w202 had one fail completely & my current one just has a little rust. Not an expensive fix, especially if you catch it early!
I heard this problem was more common on W210s, not as much on W202s. I personally don't have this problem (I upgraded my front suspension a long time ago, I inspected the perches specifically for this). In any case, this video focuses only on the vacuum system.
With my 1998 C230 the white vacuum supply line that runs to the block on the left side of the engine bay connects to a rubber hose sticking up and underneath the last intake manifold. You can't see if from above, but can only feel for it, again its about an inch long and sticking strait up.
Good to know, there are minor differences between the different models and years, but the general placement of the major components and lines is more or less the same.
Hi Pat, I just watched this video and I found (thru your talking) you imparted good information.. however.. you didn't point things out too well and I was still confused at the end. May I suggest a teachers pointer or a Laser pointer so we can see what you are referencing. Even so.. I did learn from this video so thank you for your hard work and Happy New Year.. 🍺
On a healthy system it does takes a few seconds (the latches are very sturdy, you don't want them releasing in an accident), but certainly not a minute. This could be because of poor vacuum, but then there would be other running issues as well. Or, it could also be a cracked vacuum distribution block, that usually affects the accessories much more than the engine itself (you might also expect slow HVAC responses, but this may not be noticeable).
@@PatsCarGarage Thank you, of course it's a minor issue but I will take a look in any case. Usually these small issues eventually lead to larger problems, so I like to try fix them if I can.
@@repawnd1 it's a great way of maintaining cars. Frankly, most cars out there would last a LOT longer if more drivers like you and I took care of the small issues as they arose.
Bit late to this. But would anyway be able to say what order the vac lines are connected to the vac bock ? E.g which line connects to each port. Thanks
Just make sure the engine vacuum is the left most port, and the vacuum reservoir in the right most. Everything else doesn't matter. In my video it's the grey and red vacuum lines.
Hello! Thank you for this video. I have a question, sometimes when I start the car I can hear the vacuum in the trunk turning itself on and off in 2-second intervals (It turns itself on 2 seconds, off 2 seconds, and then on 2 seconds) what could be the cause of this problem? Thanks a lot!
Usually if the pump cycles like that it means there is a leak in one of the door lock actuators. Your best bet is to buy a vacuum tester, pull each of the lines off, draw a vacuum and see which ones hold a vacuum and which ones don't. Then you can replace the leaking lock actuator (or find the leak in the vacuum line but I've never heard of a vacuum line springing a leak, it's usually the actuators).
I also inherited a 96 c280 from my Dad. This past year I noticed the vacuum pump in the trunk cycling regularly as soon as the car is started. It seems to stop when coasting then it starts again with any throttle applied. Strangely, this year, the car can't get all the readiness monitors set for the CA smog check process. Could these two issues (vacuum pump cycling and readiness monitors not setting) be related? Feeling a little hopeless and discouraged about the readiness monitors.
You'll need a vacuum tester to see if all the vacuum lines hold vacuum. Clearly there is a leak somewhere, but you will need the tester to find it. I'd do that sooner rather than later because you run the risk of burning the pump out. Can the vacuum lines prevent the readiness monitors from being set? Sure, depends on the severity of the leak though. It also depends on the readiness monitor, the one for the catalytic converter takes a long drive before it will set itself, could be as much as 150km depending on the driving conditions.
@@PatsCarGarage Really appreciate the quick reply on this. Just to confirm, you are talking about testing the 6 lines that come from the vacuum pump in the trunk area right? Are those 6 lines just for locks, trunk latch and headrests and not for engine functions? Meaning they are a separate system? Or does the trunk vacuum pump also assist with engine compartment functions?
@@jandrewx2 The vacuum pump in the trunk only does the door / trunk locks since it's not only a vacuum pump, but also a pressure pump (that's how to reverse the operation of the door locks). The engine does supply vacuum to the pump via a check valve regardless. I would still test every line though, it's rare to only have 1 vacuum leak on such an old car.
Thanks, that was VERY thorough. One question though, how much vacuum pressure should there be when there are no leaks? Also, I have a brake fluid suction pump already that I think will work.
I don't, but it's really easy honestly, I've done it myself long before I started filming things. Just run a new line down and plug it in. You can unbolt the transmission cross member and lower the transmission slightly with a jack to get easier access to the modulator. IIRC the old line has multiple sections of hard and rubber vacuum lines. You can do the entire run with a single hard line, with rubber connectors on each end. I used the old rubber sections as a protective sheath over the new hard line.
Pat, I have a 96 C280. My fuel door lock vacuum actuator pin is out of alignment. You talked about making new holes with a round file. How far forward (in inches) did you file your new holes?
Oh and I had the infamous cracked distribution block under hood so I used some Jb quik weld and sealed it up generously. Seemed to make no difference at all. Maybe I needed to remove the block all together to see if there were more cracks? Thanks!
@@sethdawg honestly you can't, the plastic becomes too brittle with age. Get a bunch of L connectors from your local Mercedes dealership (they are very cheap!). Cut the broken ones off, and do the following: you'll need a soldering iron, as soon as it gets plugged in, you want to expand the lines with the tip just slightly, to make inserting the new connector easier. Use a heat gun to heat the plastic up, insert the connector, and let the plastic cool down. I suggest you start with the vacuum line coming from the engine, if you run it differently, you can get a lot of spare line, so you can just keep cutting and trying again until you get a feel for it. Then you can fix the other lines you break with a single cut, the other lines don't have as much spare length since they can't be routed any differently than they already are.
Hello, thanks a lot for this video. I have W202 1994 1.8 90kw - I had many problems with vacuum pump and vacuum leaks - my central vents didnt work, so I found that two actuators for the central vents were leaking - i replaced them, but there was another one which i didnt find in time and my vacuum pump burned out. I couldnt find it anywhere for a some time, so I locked/opened merc with simulated vacuum with my mouth from the trunk :D it worked perfectly. Then I had to dismantle the vacuum pump and replaced the motor itself. It worked well for two years. But now I have another problem, I have a suspicion that my rear door actuator leaking, vacuum pump runs after each start several times - but there is a strange thing, when I select D or R, the vacuum pump runs and runs and when I select N, the running stops... Could it be somehow related with the automatic gear mechanism? Because I understand that my vacuum pump hidden in the trunk handles vents in the car and also locks the doors and trunk but nothing else. I thougt for a automatic transmission there is vacuum system handled by the engine itself... Is that so? Thank you
Honestly it's hard to say. The transmission draws the same amount of vacuum whether it's in D / R or in N. However, since when you put in D / R the RPMs drop a little bit, you have less vacuum to work with, which could cause the pump to turn on. My best advice would be to buy a vacuum tester and test every vacuum line you can find, you probably have a whole bunch of leaks that contribute to a problem.
@@PatsCarGarage ok, thank you - i'll try the tester and see. But the vacuum pump system hiddne in the trunk is not somehow related to primary vycuum system driven by the engine, is it?
@@rampamekkvak It is connected via the vacuum reservoir, which is itself connected to the vacuum distribution block under the hood. However I admit I'm not 100% on the interaction between the vacuum pump and the rest of the system. I only know that the "normal" operation of the vacuum pump is to lock / unlock the doors. I've also heard that the vacuum pump can provide vacuum for the HVAC when the engine is off, but this is not something that I was able to confirm with my car. My pump won't run for the HVAC, and my HVAC only works with the engine off while there is vacuum in the reservoir.
My 2000 C230K recently reached 300,000 Miles, very proud she’s great! However, my air vents do not close at all meaning I get constant exterior air into the cabin. The recirculating air button lights up but nothing changes. Any suggestions?
Your HVAC vacuum pods need replacing. I recommend you do all of them at once because you need to pull the dash out. I have a video on this which goes through the entire disassembly and replacement.
Hi pat, I bought from the old Mr. C180 w202 1995 M5, who didn't care much about him and the biggest problem is that he didn't pass the emission control because he gives a rich mixture of fuel. Started at idle does not release more than 4000rpm. When I drive, it allows. Central car locking does not work. I changed the oil all the filters, o2 sensor, spark plugs. The catalytic converter is working as having only that rich fuel mixture is a problem. Bad valve timing? Worn valves? Egr broken? Last maintenance was in 1997? Do you have any idea in what it could be?
It's normal not to get more than 4000rpm when not driving, my car doesn't allow that either. As long as it goes up to the redline when driving all is well. Central locking you need to look into the vacuum pump in the trunk, make sure it's working. Rich mixture is probably either a leaking fuel injector (idle would be erratic if it's just one, so not likely), or a bad MAF. I suggest you check out benzworld.org for help.
Hi, ! thanks for the video! I have a question: I don`t understand the EGR connection. The connection is EGR TO VACUUM (the front of the engine) ? Thank you! From Argentina!
Hello, i have a w202 c200 1995 standard, i recently had a valve job done on my car, and after that i have idle issues, but i saw that the vacuum pipe that is located exactly on the third cylinder intake tube is disconected, the one that you explain at 6:57, i don't know where to connect it, because my car is a manual transmission, where it goes? or i just leave it like that ? i have idle problems it goes really low rpms when the engine is hot and im on traffic jams, and the engine shuts off, this happens too when i turn the wheels all the way to the left or right, please help
If you can't find a dangling vacuum line anywhere, and everything else works fine, then you probably just need to plug it. If that doesn't solve the idle issue then it sounds like the throttle body wiring has degraded. It's a common issue on Mercedes of this vintage. You can either rewire the throttle body or replace it. I would suggest rewiring it, it would be much cheaper, and these throttle bodies are getting hard to find.
@@PatsCarGarage Thank you Pat.. the thing is that i don't know what vacuum line goes on the third tube of the intake manifold, so now i have it just disconnected, my car has a manual transmission , the vacuum line that normally should go all the way back to the automatic transmission its just isn't there, don't know what to plug there i think the throttle body unit may be degraded cause since i've bought the car on 2015 i needed yo put a little piece of metal on the little aceleration compass near the gas pedal linkage in order to try keeping the rpms a little big high, otherwise the engine just shuts off while running, so will try
@@anibalnikov47 By plug I just mean you need to seal to that port so it doesn't leak. And yes it does sound like your throttle body needs to be rewired. It's also a good time to check the condition of the engine main wiring harness and ignition wiring harness. All merc's of the 90s used biodegradable plastic insulation around the wires. This insulation breaks down when it's in proximity to the engine's heat. The throttle body is one of the victims to this.
Thanks for this man... I have 1996 c200 automatic and it's giving me hell on earth...It over revs in low gears and suddenly jerks forward, on top of consuming a lot of fuel. Could it the vacuum issues?
@@nanochannel6522 I would buy the vacuum line and connectors from a mercedes dealership. That's what I did some time ago and everything was pretty reasonably priced. Putting new connectors is a little tricky, I used a soldering iron set to its minimum heat to expand the opening a tiny bit, then a heat gun to soften the plastic when inserting a connector. That made air tight connections. I suggest you practice on the supply line from the engine to the vacuum block as the way it's routed it leaves a ton of spare line. If you mess up you can cut it shorter and try again.
like I said at the beginning of the video, there will be slight variations among different years / engines, I don't have all the details for all of them.
Hy, I have a c180 1995 . After I cleaned the throttle, after 2 weeks, when car is cold the engine revs up , when i brake or the acceleration keeps on, not moving the car , just the rpm . Dunno if I didnt connect the big hose right. It seems I did . So I dunno what it is . .thanks
@@PatsCarGarage I tried. N it actually moves the car on acceleration. I ll check the spring. But it s only with cold car. N randomly. .I dont think I removed it, as I the part of the throttle was still attached when I did it. But I did jiggle some spring in the 0process. I ll check it ..thank you so much
Hello Pat, I have a 1996 c200 automatic and recently it developed high rpm in low gear and then jerks forward after a slow start. What could be a problem?
I would start by testing the vacuum modulator. It regulates the modulating pressure of the transmission, if it developed a vacuum leak, it could explain both an abnormally high idle as well as shifting problems. The vacuum hose starts at the #3 cylinder intake runner on the M111 engine. If you have a vacuum tester, apply 20 mmHg of vacuum on that line (car off) and see if it holds.
You need to start with a basic tune up. Catch up on all maintenance first. After that you can replace the O2 sensor if it has not been done yet. They typically have a life span of around 10 years before they start to give inaccurate readings, which affects fuel economy.
Same problem, idle issue at low rpm,car drives good but once is stop and go neutral car start to shake and has idle problem. Don't know where to check first
Hello, i have a w202 c200 1995 standard, and when i bought the car, the main central lock worked (by that i mean the system that locks/unlocks automatically the doors when you open the pilot door with the key), and now it does not work, the have told me it is this vacuum lines or something, how can i fix it or check it??
@@PatsCarGarage thank you, for the answer, ill check it now, what could it be if it is recieving power and still dont work? , could be the pump itself that wear out right?
@@anibalnikov47 I've heard of pumps burning out (they won't run), but I've never heard of pumps running but being unable to draw a vacuum. The pumps don't usually have problems, so you could get a unit from a junkyard and it would be a pretty safe bet that it would work for another while.
When you turn the key in a quiet car you should hear it run, that pump runs many things in the car like your dampers for the air conditioning or the rear seat headrest dropping
Vacuum problems don't cause no spark. Make sure the 12v supply block on the fender is getting power. Make sure the ignition harness is properly connected to the main harness. The ECM provides switched ground to fire the sparks.
Hi Pat, we have a 1995 C220 that we can hear a hissing air leak from the back of the vacuum but we cant really pinpoint where it is. Can you help us? The car shuts off after turning on sometimes and then jumps and you can hear it over rev and choke. What will be the best way to have this fixed? Can this be done without to take the car apart? Any help is really appreciated!!!
Can you get the car running somewhat stable for some time? If you can, you can use a propane torch (don't ignite it!!!) and blast various connections with gas, the leaky one will suck propane into the engine and the engine will stutter.
Hey buddy, how could I contact to you by another social network? I need help with a vacuum line disconnected to the intake manifold and I don't have idea where it comes from, so I would like to send you a picture, could you help me please?
If i pull out the main tube that goes to intake from that HVAC block, and try if it holds vakuum, should it hold vakuum? Mine does not hold vakuum and my car shuts down when presing clucth pedal at stop sign! PLS help
Hi Pat Quick Question I Have A 2000 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor It Idle Surge And I’m Not Getting No Throttle Response At All While In Park, Reverse, Neutral, Or Drive. Any Ideas.????
Check the condition of the engine wiring harness. Pay close attention around the fuel injector plugs, look for missing / cracking insulation. Scan for codes.
@@itzsanjay22 The throttle body's wiring suffers from the same problem as the engine wiring harness. It might be worth cutting the outer insulation off and taking a peek at the wires inside. I did that with my throttle body and the wires inside were absolutely gone. I recommend rewiring the throttle body as new ones are quite expensive.
Inherited one of the family heirlooms, our 97’ c230, and I’m very grateful to have your videos to help me keep this baby going! Needs a lot of work at nearly 300,000 miles but I can tell it’s built well and can keep going with some TLC
Welcome to the family! These are very underrated cars, but indeed they are simple to work on and very well built.
My 98' has 256,000, runs great, has been maintained by the book since new, and the paint finish look nice. All of the vacuum lines seem to be in good shape, but I'm inspecting, replacing, and getting caught up on the perishables (all hoses), gaskets, and seals. The car is solid. Good to know it will do another 50,000.
Thanks Pat, i am driving a C230 1998, with up-shift transmission issues ( 5 gear ) i realised the vacuum line connector at the fuel pressure regulator was damaged, once replaced the transmission issues seemed to have disappeared. Now after looking your video i am gone check the entire system for leaks.
Hi pat, awesome video.
I just purchased a 1996 C220 garaged kept with only 45k.
Issue: the rear trunk vacuum pump runs grrr grerr grrr for about 3 minutes eveytime i startup the car and the ac is running. If I turn off ac noise goes away, if I l ave ac on noise goes away after 3-4 minutes. I’m worried that the motor / pump is going to burn out. ALSO the center vents don’t blow at all. Other than that this car is beautiful midnight blue that shines like it just came off the show floor. No joke!
Best video I've seen on this subject
my lovely w202 has just ground to a halt. really well looked after with 80000miles, hoping it's going to be a simple fix. temperature guage was normal. oil is spot on. no warning lights. a couple of plugs look fouled though.
this is very helpful, i have only come across this and it has been helpful thanks for the detailed information
Kinda surprised that the coil spring perch failure rate wasn’t mentioned, lol. My last w202 had one fail completely & my current one just has a little rust.
Not an expensive fix, especially if you catch it early!
I heard this problem was more common on W210s, not as much on W202s. I personally don't have this problem (I upgraded my front suspension a long time ago, I inspected the perches specifically for this). In any case, this video focuses only on the vacuum system.
With my 1998 C230 the white vacuum supply line that runs to the block on the left side of the engine bay connects to a rubber hose sticking up and underneath the last intake manifold. You can't see if from above, but can only feel for it, again its about an inch long and sticking strait up.
Good to know, there are minor differences between the different models and years, but the general placement of the major components and lines is more or less the same.
Hi, @02:20 i don't have the whole left site and vaccums lines? is it normal? w202 1999 M111 C180
Hi, im Shukri from Malaysia..im subscribing you. You video help me with my W202 vacum system..Tq
Hi Pat, I just watched this video and I found (thru your talking) you imparted good information.. however.. you didn't point things out too well and I was still confused at the end. May I suggest a teachers pointer or a Laser pointer so we can see what you are referencing. Even so.. I did learn from this video so thank you for your hard work and Happy New Year.. 🍺
That's actually not a bad idea, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!
Thanks for this. Only problem i have is the rear headrests take a long time to go down, i have to keep pressing the button for about a minute.
On a healthy system it does takes a few seconds (the latches are very sturdy, you don't want them releasing in an accident), but certainly not a minute. This could be because of poor vacuum, but then there would be other running issues as well. Or, it could also be a cracked vacuum distribution block, that usually affects the accessories much more than the engine itself (you might also expect slow HVAC responses, but this may not be noticeable).
@@PatsCarGarage Thank you, of course it's a minor issue but I will take a look in any case. Usually these small issues eventually lead to larger problems, so I like to try fix them if I can.
@@repawnd1 it's a great way of maintaining cars. Frankly, most cars out there would last a LOT longer if more drivers like you and I took care of the small issues as they arose.
Hey is there a diagram for all the vacuum lines, cant seem to find any
Bit late to this. But would anyway be able to say what order the vac lines are connected to the vac bock ? E.g which line connects to each port. Thanks
Just make sure the engine vacuum is the left most port, and the vacuum reservoir in the right most. Everything else doesn't matter. In my video it's the grey and red vacuum lines.
Hello! Thank you for this video. I have a question, sometimes when I start the car I can hear the vacuum in the trunk turning itself on and off in 2-second intervals (It turns itself on 2 seconds, off 2 seconds, and then on 2 seconds) what could be the cause of this problem? Thanks a lot!
Usually if the pump cycles like that it means there is a leak in one of the door lock actuators. Your best bet is to buy a vacuum tester, pull each of the lines off, draw a vacuum and see which ones hold a vacuum and which ones don't. Then you can replace the leaking lock actuator (or find the leak in the vacuum line but I've never heard of a vacuum line springing a leak, it's usually the actuators).
@@PatsCarGarage That's really helpful :) Thanks a lot!
I also inherited a 96 c280 from my Dad. This past year I noticed the vacuum pump in the trunk cycling regularly as soon as the car is started. It seems to stop when coasting then it starts again with any throttle applied. Strangely, this year, the car can't get all the readiness monitors set for the CA smog check process. Could these two issues (vacuum pump cycling and readiness monitors not setting) be related? Feeling a little hopeless and discouraged about the readiness monitors.
You'll need a vacuum tester to see if all the vacuum lines hold vacuum. Clearly there is a leak somewhere, but you will need the tester to find it. I'd do that sooner rather than later because you run the risk of burning the pump out. Can the vacuum lines prevent the readiness monitors from being set? Sure, depends on the severity of the leak though. It also depends on the readiness monitor, the one for the catalytic converter takes a long drive before it will set itself, could be as much as 150km depending on the driving conditions.
@@PatsCarGarage Really appreciate the quick reply on this. Just to confirm, you are talking about testing the 6 lines that come from the vacuum pump in the trunk area right? Are those 6 lines just for locks, trunk latch and headrests and not for engine functions? Meaning they are a separate system? Or does the trunk vacuum pump also assist with engine compartment functions?
@@jandrewx2 The vacuum pump in the trunk only does the door / trunk locks since it's not only a vacuum pump, but also a pressure pump (that's how to reverse the operation of the door locks). The engine does supply vacuum to the pump via a check valve regardless. I would still test every line though, it's rare to only have 1 vacuum leak on such an old car.
thank you!@@PatsCarGarage
Thanks, that was VERY thorough. One question though, how much vacuum pressure should there be when there are no leaks? Also, I have a brake fluid suction pump already that I think will work.
at idle it should be 20-21 inches
Pat, Do you have a video on replacing the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the transmission?
I don't, but it's really easy honestly, I've done it myself long before I started filming things. Just run a new line down and plug it in. You can unbolt the transmission cross member and lower the transmission slightly with a jack to get easier access to the modulator. IIRC the old line has multiple sections of hard and rubber vacuum lines. You can do the entire run with a single hard line, with rubber connectors on each end. I used the old rubber sections as a protective sheath over the new hard line.
Pat, I have a 96 C280. My fuel door lock vacuum actuator pin is out of alignment. You talked about making new holes with a round file. How far forward (in inches) did you file your new holes?
maybe a 1/4 inch or so. You don't need much. Just pass the actuator through and look how far the lock pin extends.
Oh and I had the infamous cracked distribution block under hood so I used some Jb quik weld and sealed it up generously. Seemed to make no difference at all. Maybe I needed to remove the block all together to see if there were more cracks? Thanks!
I'd just replace the block, it's super cheap.
How do you disconnect the lines without damaging them?
@@sethdawg honestly you can't, the plastic becomes too brittle with age.
Get a bunch of L connectors from your local Mercedes dealership (they are very cheap!). Cut the broken ones off, and do the following: you'll need a soldering iron, as soon as it gets plugged in, you want to expand the lines with the tip just slightly, to make inserting the new connector easier. Use a heat gun to heat the plastic up, insert the connector, and let the plastic cool down. I suggest you start with the vacuum line coming from the engine, if you run it differently, you can get a lot of spare line, so you can just keep cutting and trying again until you get a feel for it. Then you can fix the other lines you break with a single cut, the other lines don't have as much spare length since they can't be routed any differently than they already are.
@@sethdawgdid it end up fixing it with a new block?
@@ind2100 I didn’t get the new block. Sadly sold the car
Hello, thanks a lot for this video. I have W202 1994 1.8 90kw - I had many problems with vacuum pump and vacuum leaks - my central vents didnt work, so I found that two actuators for the central vents were leaking - i replaced them, but there was another one which i didnt find in time and my vacuum pump burned out. I couldnt find it anywhere for a some time, so I locked/opened merc with simulated vacuum with my mouth from the trunk :D it worked perfectly. Then I had to dismantle the vacuum pump and replaced the motor itself. It worked well for two years. But now I have another problem, I have a suspicion that my rear door actuator leaking, vacuum pump runs after each start several times - but there is a strange thing, when I select D or R, the vacuum pump runs and runs and when I select N, the running stops... Could it be somehow related with the automatic gear mechanism? Because I understand that my vacuum pump hidden in the trunk handles vents in the car and also locks the doors and trunk but nothing else. I thougt for a automatic transmission there is vacuum system handled by the engine itself... Is that so? Thank you
Honestly it's hard to say. The transmission draws the same amount of vacuum whether it's in D / R or in N. However, since when you put in D / R the RPMs drop a little bit, you have less vacuum to work with, which could cause the pump to turn on. My best advice would be to buy a vacuum tester and test every vacuum line you can find, you probably have a whole bunch of leaks that contribute to a problem.
@@PatsCarGarage ok, thank you - i'll try the tester and see. But the vacuum pump system hiddne in the trunk is not somehow related to primary vycuum system driven by the engine, is it?
@@rampamekkvak It is connected via the vacuum reservoir, which is itself connected to the vacuum distribution block under the hood. However I admit I'm not 100% on the interaction between the vacuum pump and the rest of the system. I only know that the "normal" operation of the vacuum pump is to lock / unlock the doors. I've also heard that the vacuum pump can provide vacuum for the HVAC when the engine is off, but this is not something that I was able to confirm with my car. My pump won't run for the HVAC, and my HVAC only works with the engine off while there is vacuum in the reservoir.
My 2000 C230K recently reached 300,000 Miles, very proud she’s great! However, my air vents do not close at all meaning I get constant exterior air into the cabin. The recirculating air button lights up but nothing changes. Any suggestions?
Your HVAC vacuum pods need replacing. I recommend you do all of them at once because you need to pull the dash out. I have a video on this which goes through the entire disassembly and replacement.
Hello..there an white pipe to from the transmission for c200 where is it go?
From the 3rd runner of the intake manifold to the vacuum modulator.
Hello, my car w202 c220 1996 got into it with water at a depth of 50 centimeters, and then the third and fourth gear was delayed in gear at a high rbm
there is a chance water got into the transmission, I would stop driving the car until you can have it looked at.
THANKS BRO 🙏
It would be nice if you told us the part number for the 90deg vacuum connectors at the splitter under the hood :)
I unfortunately don't have a part number. Mercedes dealerships sell this type of stuff surprisingly cheap, I would look there.
@@PatsCarGarage I found this number on the internet, looks the same - 2028000253. I dont need it for now (I think), but might help someone.
Hi pat, I bought from the old Mr. C180 w202 1995 M5, who didn't care much about him and the biggest problem is that he didn't pass the emission control because he gives a rich mixture of fuel. Started at idle does not release more than 4000rpm. When I drive, it allows. Central car locking does not work. I changed the oil all the filters, o2 sensor, spark plugs. The catalytic converter is working as having only that rich fuel mixture is a problem. Bad valve timing? Worn valves? Egr broken? Last maintenance was in 1997? Do you have any idea in what it could be?
It's normal not to get more than 4000rpm when not driving, my car doesn't allow that either. As long as it goes up to the redline when driving all is well.
Central locking you need to look into the vacuum pump in the trunk, make sure it's working.
Rich mixture is probably either a leaking fuel injector (idle would be erratic if it's just one, so not likely), or a bad MAF.
I suggest you check out benzworld.org for help.
Hi, ! thanks for the video! I have a question: I don`t understand the EGR connection. The connection is EGR TO VACUUM (the front of the engine) ? Thank you! From Argentina!
From the EGR valve to the vacuum solenoid at the front of the engine.
Hello, i have a w202 c200 1995 standard, i recently had a valve job done on my car, and after that i have idle issues, but i saw that the vacuum pipe that is located exactly on the third cylinder intake tube is disconected, the one that you explain at 6:57, i don't know where to connect it, because my car is a manual transmission, where it goes? or i just leave it like that ? i have idle problems it goes really low rpms when the engine is hot and im on traffic jams, and the engine shuts off, this happens too when i turn the wheels all the way to the left or right, please help
If you can't find a dangling vacuum line anywhere, and everything else works fine, then you probably just need to plug it. If that doesn't solve the idle issue then it sounds like the throttle body wiring has degraded. It's a common issue on Mercedes of this vintage. You can either rewire the throttle body or replace it. I would suggest rewiring it, it would be much cheaper, and these throttle bodies are getting hard to find.
@@PatsCarGarage Thank you Pat.. the thing is that i don't know what vacuum line goes on the third tube of the intake manifold, so now i have it just disconnected, my car has a manual transmission , the vacuum line that normally should go all the way back to the automatic transmission its just isn't there, don't know what to plug there
i think the throttle body unit may be degraded cause since i've bought the car on 2015 i needed yo put a little piece of metal on the little aceleration compass near the gas pedal linkage in order to try keeping the rpms a little big high, otherwise the engine just shuts off while running, so will try
@@anibalnikov47 By plug I just mean you need to seal to that port so it doesn't leak. And yes it does sound like your throttle body needs to be rewired. It's also a good time to check the condition of the engine main wiring harness and ignition wiring harness. All merc's of the 90s used biodegradable plastic insulation around the wires. This insulation breaks down when it's in proximity to the engine's heat. The throttle body is one of the victims to this.
@@PatsCarGarage thank you again Pat, ill keep you up to date with my issue
Thanks for this man... I have 1996 c200 automatic and it's giving me hell on earth...It over revs in low gears and suddenly jerks forward, on top of consuming a lot of fuel. Could it the vacuum issues?
It certainly could be.
I actually have the same problem with 1996 baby in Kampala! @Pat's Car Garage, where can I buy a Vacuum tester?
Hi pat, which plastic line to fold rear headrest? Rats eat mine so i cant fold it anymore
I think it's the white one leaving the vacuum distribution block.
@@PatsCarGarage ah ok i'll check it thanks for ur reply
Where i can buy it online?do u have any link?
@@nanochannel6522 I would buy the vacuum line and connectors from a mercedes dealership. That's what I did some time ago and everything was pretty reasonably priced. Putting new connectors is a little tricky, I used a soldering iron set to its minimum heat to expand the opening a tiny bit, then a heat gun to soften the plastic when inserting a connector. That made air tight connections. I suggest you practice on the supply line from the engine to the vacuum block as the way it's routed it leaves a ton of spare line. If you mess up you can cut it shorter and try again.
I drive cdi c200 2001 and what to use c250 diesel turbo with mechanical pump, l want to know if l could use the same cdi gear box for c250. Tanx
My up shift solenoid has 3 vacuum lines , you explained 2 of them but not the 3rd one on the bottom??
like I said at the beginning of the video, there will be slight variations among different years / engines, I don't have all the details for all of them.
I have a 99 c43 amg. All door locked and truck stopped working one day. What do u think? Was working fine then just quit
I would check the vacuum pump in the trunk.
Hy, I have a c180 1995 . After I cleaned the throttle, after 2 weeks, when car is cold the engine revs up , when i brake or the acceleration keeps on, not moving the car , just the rpm . Dunno if I didnt connect the big hose right. It seems I did . So I dunno what it is .
.thanks
It sounds like you forgot to reattach the throttle close spring.
@@PatsCarGarage I tried. N it actually moves the car on acceleration. I ll check the spring. But it s only with cold car. N randomly. .I dont think I removed it, as I the part of the throttle was still attached when I did it. But I did jiggle some spring in the 0process. I ll check it ..thank you so much
Halo I take the manifold off and get the house the split in 2. The nipple the attache to it is the pcv valve?
One last question friend, this model only has 4 gears? It is that I have the same car and it does not pass fourth
The 4 cylinder engines had 4 speeds through MY 1996, the 6+ cylinder engines had 4 speeds through MY 1995.
Hello Pat, I have a 1996 c200 automatic and recently it developed high rpm in low gear and then jerks forward after a slow start. What could be a problem?
I would start by testing the vacuum modulator. It regulates the modulating pressure of the transmission, if it developed a vacuum leak, it could explain both an abnormally high idle as well as shifting problems. The vacuum hose starts at the #3 cylinder intake runner on the M111 engine. If you have a vacuum tester, apply 20 mmHg of vacuum on that line (car off) and see if it holds.
How about vacuum line hose to transmission..?
cylinder 3 intake runner on m111, not sure about m104, but it could be the same (though it would be cylinder 5).
Dear brother I have 1995 manual transmission but I am facing extremely bad milage not more than 7km/l .what is you advise in this problem.
You need to start with a basic tune up. Catch up on all maintenance first. After that you can replace the O2 sensor if it has not been done yet. They typically have a life span of around 10 years before they start to give inaccurate readings, which affects fuel economy.
@@PatsCarGarage yes you are right.
yes, in the basic tune up, the repair shop will do Star Diagnosis. And adjust the CO2. I believe your car is emitting CO2 a Lot.
I have idle issues in low rpm, which lines should i check in my m111 engine
All of them
Same problem, idle issue at low rpm,car drives good but once is stop and go neutral car start to shake and has idle problem. Don't know where to check first
Hello, i have a w202 c200 1995 standard, and when i bought the car, the main central lock worked (by that i mean the system that locks/unlocks automatically the doors when you open the pilot door with the key), and now it does not work, the have told me it is this vacuum lines or something, how can i fix it or check it??
Check to see if the vacuum pump is receiving power.
@@PatsCarGarage thank you, for the answer, ill check it now, what could it be if it is recieving power and still dont work? , could be the pump itself that wear out right?
@@anibalnikov47 I've heard of pumps burning out (they won't run), but I've never heard of pumps running but being unable to draw a vacuum. The pumps don't usually have problems, so you could get a unit from a junkyard and it would be a pretty safe bet that it would work for another while.
When you turn the key in a quiet car you should hear it run, that pump runs many things in the car like your dampers for the air conditioning or the rear seat headrest dropping
@@newtonraymond77 that's not correct. The headrests are only operated with the engine on, this is something I was able to verify in the repair manual.
would any of these problems prevent the engine from sparking? I have a C200 w202 1995 with no spark. Any idea?
Vacuum problems don't cause no spark. Make sure the 12v supply block on the fender is getting power. Make sure the ignition harness is properly connected to the main harness. The ECM provides switched ground to fire the sparks.
Okay! Thank you for your answer.
And if that is how you take out?
Hi Pat, we have a 1995 C220 that we can hear a hissing air leak from the back of the vacuum but we cant really pinpoint where it is. Can you help us?
The car shuts off after turning on sometimes and then jumps and you can hear it over rev and choke.
What will be the best way to have this fixed?
Can this be done without to take the car apart? Any help is really appreciated!!!
Can you get the car running somewhat stable for some time? If you can, you can use a propane torch (don't ignite it!!!) and blast various connections with gas, the leaky one will suck propane into the engine and the engine will stutter.
Hey buddy, how could I contact to you by another social network? I need help with a vacuum line disconnected to the intake manifold and I don't have idea where it comes from, so I would like to send you a picture, could you help me please?
Make an account on benzworld, lots of people to help you there (including myself)!
Go to your local wreckers that has the same model and take a picture
Difficult to watch. Better lighting needed. Otherwise information is on point.
If i pull out the main tube that goes to intake from that HVAC block, and try if it holds vakuum, should it hold vakuum? Mine does not hold vakuum and my car shuts down when presing clucth pedal at stop sign! PLS help
Hi Pat Quick Question I Have A 2000 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor It Idle Surge And I’m Not Getting No Throttle Response At All While In Park, Reverse, Neutral, Or Drive. Any Ideas.????
Check the condition of the engine wiring harness. Pay close attention around the fuel injector plugs, look for missing / cracking insulation. Scan for codes.
@@PatsCarGarage Hi Thanks For Replying I Replaced Engine Harness Yesterday Still Nothing.
@@itzsanjay22 Was it a problem before you changed the wiring harness?
@@PatsCarGarage It Was Doing The Same Thing Before.
@@itzsanjay22 The throttle body's wiring suffers from the same problem as the engine wiring harness. It might be worth cutting the outer insulation off and taking a peek at the wires inside. I did that with my throttle body and the wires inside were absolutely gone. I recommend rewiring the throttle body as new ones are quite expensive.